I wish I'd heard this 5 years ago, it would have saved me a lot of trouble. I'll take the trade off of poor float adjustment on Edelbrocks, in exchange for no power valves, all sealing surfaces above fuel height, and on the fly adjustments for secondary metering.
I have been building carburetors for 40 years.. That was excellent explanation but there's a lot more behind getting your fuel pressure and float set... Metering rods, emulsion tubes, vacuum circuits power valves, Jets, ECT ECT... All of these have to be taken into consideration.. when setting up a carburetor..... Keep up the good work I enjoy listening to your videos.
Thanks you for your great advice. I just put a new Edelbrock carb on my 85 GMC pickup with a stock mechanical pump, and its running rich. so definitely will be starting with a fuel regulator and float height check first.
I am digging your channel, sir. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, I’m an IT guy, but I own and maintain a 74 Challenger and I’ve always wanted to know more about the workings of the fuel/carburetor and timing, which I am finding here and nicely explained to boot. Keep up the good work, sir.
My truck came with a basically new Edelbrock 1406 when I bought it. Thing gave me all kinds of fits. After tons of fiddling I got it running really good except that left turn stumble was a deal breaker. That's when I bought the summit carb. Now I run a 450 cfm 4548 Holley 4160 I converted to 4150. That thing runs even better than the summit carb did for my application. I've had a bad taste in my mouth for the Edelbrock performer carbs ever since. I've rebuilt a couple of genuine Carter AFB's for people and those ran great though.
Replaced the 2150 2bbl on my LTD with a Edelbrock. THIS is an absolute must on mechanical pumps. Also on mechanical, it's good to have a vapor separator fuel filter with return line; as well as insulating carb spacer. This way you get the most consistent fuel flow without problems in fuel percolation.
Thanks man, appreciate the video. I just picked up and old truck that’s running rich AF with a Carter AFB. Going to go pick up a regulator in the morning.
Man I swear you done blew my mind. Still learning as I go but you connected a few dots for me and I greatly appreciate that. Kinda makes me wanna drill a hole in my carburetor add some glass seal it up lol. But the drill bit trick worked well for me resetting my floats. Thanks man.
Next best thing to fuel injection. Works at extreme angles with throwing a bunch of money at it like Holley. Quadrajunk is good for daily but with low gears and no overdrive the fuel bowl is small
with a 10.5:1 408 BBC, 280H Comp cam, about 26* idle timing, I'm just a skosh out of the tranfer slot to achieve a strong Idle. With 2 PCV valves btw. That's why you generally see edelbrocks on mild setups. Next I'm gonna try a complete opening of the front PCV port into a small air cleaner, and hook up my PCV to the rear. Otherwise it runs great, and I love the eddy's so much I was determined to make it work. Edit... it's a 1413 800 CFM model. Also the two pcv valves are side by side, one in an oil fill cap hole. There's a breather on the opposite corner of the motor. Making 15" Vacuum around 1000 RPM in Park,and about 10-12" in gear around 800 RPM.
Hey man, love your videos. FYI in case I missed it in the video you can actually run an edelbrock with the top plate off the carb. You can also change metering rods with it running as well.
I love Edelbrock carbs! Years ago, I threw all my Holley carbs and parts on the swap table and never looked back. They went for cheep too! Like your show, by the way...
Don’t be confused by the carb toss that I don’t like Edelbrocks. Great units 👍 Adjust edelbrock float height - vintage TH289 video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_tUw... simple fuel pressure regulator: amzn.to/3asELjx
Aha, excellent explanation! So the higher the fuel pressure, the lower the float needs to sit in the fuel (at needle closed position) to maintain the same fuel level in the bowl. Thinking of the fuel pressure on the needle trying to push the float down, more fuel pressure makes the float resist the buoyant force - sort of like adding weight to a boat making it sit lower in the water. In that analogy, the people are fuel pressure and the float is the boat.
Fuel pressure regulator recommended by edelbrock in set up instructions. Also most important thing with edelbrock is matching set up springs to engine vacuum or they won't work proper.
That would be the fuel enrichment circuit on the main jets where when load reaches a point where you fall below a certain manifold vacuum, the springs come in and push the rods out of the jets effectively making a larger jet.
These are good carbs, easy to adjust out of the box. If you read the paperwork (which mine says no more than 6.5 psi fuel pressure) they also break down how to check floats and change jets/rods. Just pop the top off, the hardest part about it is not losing the linkage clips. This style of carb came on some serious muscle back in the day.
Youre correct, float bowl level is critical when tuning a carb. It should be the first thing that is completed. Especially critical on carbs without externally adjustable floats. Since there is little air velocity at low engine speed the carb idle circuit works mostly on the pressure differential between atmosphere and and manifold vacuum. Vacuum is created by the engine and atmospheric pressure pushes fuel out of the carb through the idle (low speed jets). When fuel level is high the carb requires less delta between atmosphere and intake pressure to deliver fuel. So high float level results in more fuel delivery and an idle mixture that is rich. Emulsification works a little differently in an edelbrock but im sure the effect is similar to a holley. High float level in a holley also results in more fuel getting pushed into the idle circuit but the higer fuel level also covers more of the emuslification tubes. More of the tube that is covered results in less emuslified fuel leaving the carb through the idle ports. With poor emuslification of fuel, the air speed through the intake is critical to atomization and vaporization of the fuel. Fuel must phase change into a vapor in order to burn in the combustion chamber. Fuel that does not emusilfy will not atomize, fuel that dont atomize wont vaporize. At idle we have low air speed so the Fuel that dont change phase and vaporize wont burn and we get a fat AFR at idle. So what do we do? close off the idle mix screws to compensate. The idle circuit also feeds the transfer slots. Both the idle circuit and transfer slots deliver fuel during off idle events. Since we closed off the idle mix screws a little to compensate for that fat idle there is less fuel available during transition and fuel delivered through the transfer slots is insufficient and we get an off idle stumble. . So what do we do now? Add another band-aid and adjust the accelerator pump to get more fuel during transition. Thats better. But wait, now we are into the high speed circuit. You also need to remember, the idle and transfer slots still deliver fuel even when on the high speed circuit. (More about how the idle circuit comes into play in a minute.) Now with the higher air speeds, the bernoulli effect comes into play. The high speed air flowing through the boosters creates a lower pressure system and fuel is pulled through the main jets and sprays out of the boosters. . The higher fuel bow level results in more fuel getting pulled through the boosters before air speed is fast enough to atomize and vaporize it and we get a bog. Remember the idle circuit is still delivering fuel but since we pinched off the mix screws its not a factor yet and the accelerator pump adjustment we made shot its load already. What do we do now...? Oh i know, change the rods to lean it out. Oh crap, now im lean at higher RPM...🤔. Shit, remember we pinched off the idle mix screws so there another reason why its lean. Im gonna mess with enrichment circuit now.....see where im going with this. As Luke said, float adjustment will bite you in the ass if you dont get it right in the beginning.
I don’t know if you are “Jim farmer” on Facebook who I normally talk to, but all that aside what you have posted is beautifully said. I make these videos for the people who really care about figuring things out, which isn’t the masses. It’s nice to be among like minded folks 👍
I have never liked Edelbrock Performer carbs. I have two of them that have been sitting on my shelf in my garage for over 20 years that I tried running on the engine in my 70 Monte Carlo back in the day. I bought both of them brand new. They both had an off idle bog that I could never get rid of no matter what I did. Even with being on the phone with their tech support. It was probably related to what you have been talking about with fuel pressure. I was running a mechanical pump with no pressure regulator. I ended up buying a new Edelbrock Quadrajet carb back when they still made them and put that on the car and it worked perfectly and is still on the car to this day.
Thanks so much for the reply Luke! So I have a sbc 350 with an edelbrock 1406. I’m getting horrendous gas mileage and the engine seemed to knock or tap either when under moderate load like a hill or
Well nice information. I have a new edel and it has way out specs other float. I kind off thought fuel pressure but ok now we know it matters . My carb overflow when standing hot. And was a way lean for mild 350 in stock, 600 cfm.
Real good video guys. I love the violence in the beginning! Good touch. But real good info as well. I work with engines alot as my hobby & I'm learning my way around fine tuning carbs. I hadn't thought of some of this stuff. Thanks
Another problem I’ve had with edelbrock is boiling fuel. Edelbrock makes a wooden spacer and it works great to insulate. With 5.5 psi and spacer no more hard starts.
I've had a couple Turbo Regals, an '86 Cutlass, and some pretty interesting non-G-body cars like an SVT Cobra, a lot of F-bodies and a Spirit R/T. I gotta say, my '84 GP is the car I miss the most. It treated me a lot better than I treated it and never really cost me anything. I still have spare parts for that thing hoping it is going to come back some day.
People still dont understand the nuances of how a carb works. People choose a carb based on what runs better, Not how to make what they already have run better. Apples and oranges.
i thought the power valve issue was due to back fire through carburetor.. not necessarily problem with carb itself but a failure due to force exerted on the valve from a positive pressure rupturing the diaphragm... in the early 90's almost 30 years ago holley started putting blowout protection in its carbs.. a check valve of some sort.
Truth. I had an 82 Mustang GT w a 1970 302 that used the 82 fuel pump. When i went to the edelbrock it ran like crap. Read the manual closely and there was actually a note about ford fuel pumps delivering too much pressure. Put an adjustable pressure regulator and then it worked much better
To be fair, the install instructions that come with Edelbrock carbs says petty much all the info in this vid. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Buy the hard line inlet tube, and strap a fuel pressure gauge and pressure reg inline with it. Done. The brock is a great carb.. Especially the AVS2. Easy to tune, and great drivability.
For sure - everyone omits the regulator. I tried I. This video to explain why it’s important and hopefully twist some previously unwilling arms out there to do it!
@@ThunderHead289 don't get me wrong I thought the video was great. It's good info for people who think they know what they're doing without reading the instructions ;)
@@scottmartinetti4875 carbs are pretty forgiving within reason, ignition timing will directly effect air fuel ratio - it sounds odd, I could explain it, but it would be lengthy. Anyway, what is your initial timing on this engine?
@@ThunderHead289 hey thanks for the concern. I do need to re set the timing. 36 degrees at 4000rpm. However i reduced the fuel pressure, took it for a spin, and it's both smelling and running better now.
Not gonna lie, I'm a dumbass when it comes to carbs. Your videos have been incredibly helpful in helping me sort out some long term run issues that I've been having on a couple of my engines.
Edelbrock carb can stay on the car and still change jets and what not. I have never had a problem with edelbrock but holly always gives me issues always
Ive throwin over 30 holleys in the trash ! Ive ran Edelbrock carbs for over 30 years with a stock fuel pump . NEVER had a problem ! If you set your floats to low on a Edelbrock the gas wont fill up the well for the a accelerator pump resulting in a half squirt on your squirt on your accelerator pump !
@@weldorworx6858 you spend your time and set up any carb itll work good. But really it boils down to what you're more experienced with. I've had nothing but an easy time with holley products, while edelbrock kicked my ass, but that was because I knew holley, but not edelbrock. I'm sure theres a salty old GM tech out there that can get a Q-jet to run like a beast by sound alone. Holley and edelbrock wouldn't be making carbs if they were junk. You know?
@@jessiebickel2214 i am that salty crusty 57 year ol bastard that makes a Q jet eat everything else . Couldnt count on both hands and feet how many times i pulled a holley off somethin and put ther original q jet back on and watch em grin from ear ta ear . I ate a lot of 390s with a stock 307 . Stock but headers and a q jet . Put a 327 intake on it so i could have a 4 barrel . One guy had a 390 , .030 over . Class 3 melling cam headers , holley , msd . 4:10 gears . I came from behind the guy and went around and put 2 , 3 car lengths on him ! Nothin pulls like a well tuned spreadbore . This guy was my mechanic . Hes worked on holleys fr close ta 50 years . He still struggles with one here n ther . My other mechanic buddy . Just put a brand new holley on a fresh 400 sbc . Spent all week end tryin ta make the car run right . Brand new holley straight out the box . Finally gave up n dropped a edelbrock on . Car screams now ! In my 40 years experience ive seen several ppl go garage ta garage tryin make holley run . Then they got pointed my way . Back to a q jet . Holleys just seem inconsistent . Run taday n not tomorrow . All my buddies are holley fans . Complainin they only get 10 miles to the gallon . While i get 16 mpg on a stock 350 with 200,000 miles on it ! And eat ther lunch every time we race . Ill take a Q jet over anything ! My stock 400 in my plow truck . Headers n a q jet . Just kills these stock diesels lol . Trucks got 500,000 miles on it . 180,000 on a stock 400 sbc . It will smoke the tires half way through third gear . That stock 307 with a 3:08 posi would broil both tires half way through 2nd gear . I ate alot a cars with that 307 . To much fun ! Leave em standin ther goin FUCK i cant believe this ! Good times ! Be safe brother !
Thanks Luke for the video. What carb do you recommend? I have a stock 85 Trans Am, don't hate on me, lol. I like Fords too, in fact would love to get into a 78 Bronco... anyway... the TA has the stock qjet 4bbl, its a LG4 305 motor, just for wife and I to drive on occasion, runs fine to me, but if I ever replace it what carb would you recommend? Thanks.
How did it take me a year to find this video. LoL. We use a lot of Eddies on our stuff, and people at shows & cruises always ask why they run like they do without making your eyes water. "They all have pressure regulator's & gauges on them". Even if they are mechanical. Makes it Super Easy to see if you have pump/filter problems when you look at the gauge, & it looks cool as well. Before you even leave the store, you buy a Regulator & Pressure Gauge with it. IMO the guys at Edelbrock should just add the cost into the Carbs, and toss them into the box so you get it right, right out of the box. Would improve their PR even more than what it is now. Damn Good Video man. Damn, damn good one.
Sorry, but had to add this. The hard part in this though, is when you buy a used one from someone. The problem was Exactly What You Said, but they've bought the "tuning kit" & miss-matched or drilled everything in it making it 100 times harder to get it back to "base-line". It's gotten to the point I don't even bother with "unknown" used ones anymore.
The Edelbrock will boil fuel also with this new gas. I dont like them very well but have one on my daughters k10. Air gap intake, heat shield on the fuel line, 1 inch phenolic spacer, runs great! I do think the summit motocraft carbs are better though
I love my Edelbrock carbs I think they're the most fine tunable for something that you drive everyday once you get it how you want it forget it as soon as you understand how vacuum makes the metering rod rise and fall I love mine can't say nothing bad about it at Cruise it's perfect you just give it a tiny bit more throttle as the vacuum Falls I can actually feel the metering rods raise and the power come in I always run 2 mr. Gasket cheap fuel pumps one near the tank one on the fender and a return line that is just a 70 thousandths orifice I set it up at sea level down in Florida and take it to North Carolina for the snow and never touch it I've never loved a carburetor more⚙🔩🔧⛽🇺🇸
Find me a $30 regulator. All the $30 ones are for high pressure fuel injection fuel delivery. It’s very hard these days to find a good 1 to 10 psi regulator and when you do they’re definitely not $30!
My F100 with a 390 had an Edelbrock 600 on it when I got it. Going WOT at 3000RPM pumped out black smoke like a diesel... lol 4MPG cruising. I didn't even bother with trying to tune it, buddy had a Holley 600 he hated so I traded with him. Ran fine on his, the Holley runs fine on mine. One time peak of 12.5MPG, average with 50/50 city/highway was 11.6.
Ok, but the 2100 on my 302 just gives a bowl height from top of carburetor to top of bowl. There's no mention of where the actual fuel level should be. This really doesn't help much for stock carburetor applications.
I own a Chevelle with two Edelbrock av2 carbs and also have one on my 78 square body truck . They are to me the greatest carb for the money . The only mistake I think your making is that you're bolting them to a Ford
See that's what I was thinking ... but I'm biased because I build the 6.6L , 6.2L, 5.3+ and 4.3L Turbo at the Tonawanda Engine Plant. So Go Big, Go Chevy !! GM BUT SERIOUSLY BUY AMERICAN!+ STAND UP AMERICA!+ FIGHT FOR OUR FUTURES !!! GM, FORD STELLENTIS
Used to be a big fan of holleys in the 90's. Easy to dial in but had to keep tightening the primary bowl occasionally until finally broke a screw. Bought carb new. Went with Carter AVS and Edelbrock ever since. Must have been a warped body.
I know this is an old video.but I have a question, and an issue with my Edelbrock Maybe it's not the carb but the problem is that I set the pressure with the regulator at say,6 lbs.as the engine warms up the fuel pressure drops to 4 or maybe even 3 lbs.this I know effects the float.i have done everything I can think of to fix it.any ideas?
I got a 1405 edelbrock car & edelbrock mechanical fuel pump. Do i meed a regulator. Edelbrock claims 6psi on pump out the box. ? No regulator required. Awesome video.
Can an improper float setting cause a backfire upon load. I've tried everything and still get a backfire on hard acceleration. I can ride for hours under normal acceleration but stepping on it I will get a backfire. My setup is 65 Galaxie 500 with 352. Edelbrock performer intake and a 1806 carb. One thing I don't have is a regulator.
Edelbrock will always just be a Carter AVS to me. Albeit polished and logoed. The Carter carburetor lives on in the day of fuel injection. Meanwhile, good video.
Just listen to your video on Edelbrock carburetors. My nephew has a 68 mustang with a 302 and a Edelbrock four barrel carburetor on it. He’s having nothing but difficulty with it running rough after it warms up at idle circuit and quitting or dying off I think he has too much fuel pressure, when he puts his Excelerator into it when he’s driving, it will backfire sometimes. Thanks for your info I will pass it along to my nephew.
Could be a warped flange, gasket leak at base. Warm it up and spray the base all around with carb clean. If it revs up or dies pull it off and also check intake with straight edge. I like the grease trick on base gasket also Luke!
Hey! I got one on my galaxie and she runs nice. No junk Holly's for me! Been told Holly is so finicky and hard to tune, but the Carter is sweet. Also the Quadra junk is good too.
Carter/Weber/Edelbrock are the same carburetor. Just depends on what year you bought them. Some of the older Edelbrocks have a "W" or Weber stamped on the drivers side
Edelbrock make a great carb I have been running one on my daily now for 4 years with no issues. Before that I had a bad experience with 2 brand new Holley 4160 an boy were they dogs. Build quality was that poor I could wiggle the kneedle an seat side to side with my finger. On the box it had "assembled in the USA" so only one could guess where their parts were made for that particular model anyway. I ended up getting my money back from the Holley performance shop I purchased from as they couldn't get neither running right. I'm not biased on this topic ither as I also run a Holley 2bbl and another 750dp on club cars I own and run very well but they were old rebuilt carbs years ago when quality parts existed.
stomping on the pedal. I checked my initial timing and it was at 16° advanced. I retarded it back to 12° which put mi total timing at 35°, but then it began to “run on”. I don’t hear any knock or tapping from the valves when open the throttle with the hood open in the driveway. Should I go back to the 16° initial timing which would put my total around 39°? And would a fuel pressure regulator help with my mileage?
Go for the Holley regulator. I bought a house-brand one from a big mail order parts company, it leaked - sent it back, they sent a replacement and the replacement leaked. Don't know about you, but I have a zero tolerance policy for fuel leaks. The Holley regulator was perfect from the get-go and hasn't leaked after a couple years of service so far.
Hello I have a question if you have the right jets in the perfect world primary and secondary should be the same jet size or not? 4.3 vortec marine 1409 carb Primary .095 secondary .0 92 do you think that sound right to you my secondary when he’s open it look like it’s missing fuel!! I disconnect the secondary and Run fine clean I connect the secondary in the engine almost stopped full throttle Regulator 5.5 psi Any help thanks
Would you ever do motorcraft carb videos? Ive pretty much mastered mine but it would be awesome learning some more stuff I probably dont know. Mainly on the choking setting up stuff. Ive got mine set right but at the same time. It would also be awesome if you did a video on how power valves work, how to pick the right one based on your idle intake vacuum.
Ive been to 3 mechanics and what im spending is getting close to over a thousand. Tune up, timing adjustment and still same issue. Hard to re start on hot days. Rpms fade to zero when idling too long. Going to try fuel regulator plus carb spacer
@@ThunderHead289 hey thanks for the reply! I forgot to mention when I open the hood the idle returns to around 800 and it feels like it could run forever which is why I thought it was the heat issue. I watched one of your other videos so I know I can't do a return line because I have a mechanical fuel pump.
I put the indicated regulator in and it worked ok for a while then the pressure went to 2-3 lbs. So I was on the road and just bypassed it leaving the pressure gauge in which showed 8-10 lbs. It got me home but I have other problems with roughly idle, stalling the braking, and won't idle for long after accelerator let off. I did pull off all my smog stuff (1984 GMC K20 p/u with a 350 cid). The ego is still in with a vacuum nipple on it. Bit I was told you have to put a cut off plate since the EGR may have stuck when I d/cd the smog junk. So anyways....I will block off the EGR hole, put new fuel filter (40 micron), not sure what else to do?? Any advice? thanks
Good stuff! Edelbrock carbs aren’t terrible but characteristics in performance remind me of a Qjet …..they run good but just don’t seem to have the performance output of a Holley!
got question for you ....i just rebuild my chevy 350 1990 k5 blazer i converted it over from tbi to carb ..i did a few up grade on the engine high performance intake headers 3' pipes all way back up graded the cam to a howard rattler cam 525 intake lift 535 exhaust duration 227/235 lobe separation 109 center line 103 i still the same factory heads on there i believe they the swirl port heads ..i no i should have went with some better heads but the engine was already done. i put a brand new 1406 edelbrock carb on it right out the box every sence i put that carb on there i been using alot of fuel i set the carb best as posible ..im using a awful lot of fuel just with it iding..i have my pressure regulator set at 5psi..dont no why im losing so mush fuel
Damn it! You just helped me with the Proform 650DP on the last video, and now "screwalled" me on my twin Eldelbrocks for my BB 496! Regulator coming. I got 3 birds the hand! How cool is that?!
Doesn't the Edelbrock carburetor list specifications on acceptable inlet fuel pressure? If so, step one is to provide it, and you need a pressure gage to know. I think there are 2 types of pressure regulators. One is a series regulator, termed "pressure reducing", which controls the pressure at its outlet. The other type is termed "back-pressure regulator" which controls the pressure at its inlet by venting excess fuel back to the fuel tank (or pump inlet). The "pressure relief valve" built into some electric fuel pumps is a version. Best to run a return line back to the fuel tank for a back-pressure type to avoid vapor in the system. That also gets you set for later EFI-type pump if you drop the carburetor for a fuel injection system,
I do not like the double bowl holley carbs BUT i recently bought the new Holley DEMON and put it on a project car, so far its great! Do you know anything about them? I havent really gotten into adjustments yet but it worked right out of the box to start the car, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
you said on one of your other videos that you weren't able to keep good pressure with a mechanical fuel pump that also had a regulator, so when you add a regulator do you always swap to an electric fuel pump? or is that only on vehicles where you have fuel return that you have to have an electric fuel pump to keep enough pressure on the system that has return? seems like it shouldnt matter if there is return or not, if there's a regulator then either kind of pump should work. what am i misunderstanding here?
Hi ThunderHead, thanks so much for your effort to teach us. I know this video has been a long time but could you help me with my question? I have a Mustang with v8 302, Edelbrock carb 4 barrel and mechanical pump. You in my position will install a fuel pressure regulator and gauge anyway?
1st install a temporary "T" and test fuel pressure. Some parts store have a fuel pressure test kit in a Loan-A-Tool program. Give it a few revs, if its roughly 5.25PSI you're good
I just took the 2 barrel carb of and switch it to a 4 barrel intake and edelbrock card had it running but having some timing problems each is we are off a tooth or two on time but its had starting so it makes sense with the regular I will have to get one and by the way it's a 1980 Thunderbird with a 302 trying to make it to power tourer but its up in the air with the hole virus thing so not sure I can make it like to here you thoughts on what I have done so far
I guess I don't quite understand fuel bowl fuel level. I just assumed as long as you don't run your fuel bowl out of fuel or totally flood it. It doesn't matter to much....what I'm trying to say is I always thought of a fuel bowel like a mini gas tank. Just like the real gas tank level isn't super important for performance. Can you explain how low vs high float level changes the metering part of carb?
Okay that was an awesome video. I have an Edelbrock 1408 / Carter afb. I don't know exactly what it is. I had a vacuum leak going to the vacuum advance. I plugged that off from the carburetor. It runs awesome with no vacuum going to the distributor. Is this going to mess things up in the long run?
I'm having trouble with fuel pressure.i have a good regulator,I think...I can't keep the pressure constant.when the engine is cold pressure at 5.5 to 6.when it warms up it drops to 3.any thoughts?
@@ThunderHead289 it even does it when the gauge isn't under the hood.I hooked one up temporarily in the car just to see what was going on while going down the road.
I have a carter carb on my 352 ford. It looks almost new . I see Edelbrock bought the rights to this design . Is there any way to tell how old this Carter carb is ? The 352 runs great with it but will change over to a Holley at some point . Thanks .
Love all your videos thank's, but i have a question, if i have a return line i wont get more pressure event if i have a strong fuel pump because once the float needle shut the fuel going in the fuel is going right to the return line and not making more pressure the the float right?
Working on carbs...is becoming a lost art. To some of us, hes stating the obvious. To others, its really news. Keep up the vids, love the channel.
I wish I'd heard this 5 years ago, it would have saved me a lot of trouble. I'll take the trade off of poor float adjustment on Edelbrocks, in exchange for no power valves, all sealing surfaces above fuel height, and on the fly adjustments for secondary metering.
I have been building carburetors for 40 years..
That was excellent explanation but there's a lot more behind getting your fuel pressure and float set... Metering rods, emulsion tubes, vacuum circuits power valves, Jets, ECT ECT... All of these have to be taken into consideration.. when setting up a carburetor..... Keep up the good work I enjoy listening to your videos.
Thanks you for your great advice. I just put a new Edelbrock carb on my 85 GMC pickup with a stock mechanical pump, and its running rich. so definitely will be starting with a fuel regulator and float height check first.
AMEN! Not just for the Edelbrock. All carburetors, imho, should start with proper fuel pressure.
I just run a Jeep fuel filter with a return line back to the tank, seems to keep the pressure where it needs to be, and they’re cheap! Great video!!
I am digging your channel, sir. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, I’m an IT guy, but I own and maintain a 74 Challenger and I’ve always wanted to know more about the workings of the fuel/carburetor and timing, which I am finding here and nicely explained to boot. Keep up the good work, sir.
Heck I learned something!
Life long endeavor if your mind is open.
Learnt!
My truck came with a basically new Edelbrock 1406 when I bought it. Thing gave me all kinds of fits. After tons of fiddling I got it running really good except that left turn stumble was a deal breaker. That's when I bought the summit carb. Now I run a 450 cfm 4548 Holley 4160 I converted to 4150. That thing runs even better than the summit carb did for my application. I've had a bad taste in my mouth for the Edelbrock performer carbs ever since. I've rebuilt a couple of genuine Carter AFB's for people and those ran great though.
Replaced the 2150 2bbl on my LTD with a Edelbrock. THIS is an absolute must on mechanical pumps. Also on mechanical, it's good to have a vapor separator fuel filter with return line; as well as insulating carb spacer. This way you get the most consistent fuel flow without problems in fuel percolation.
Thanks man, appreciate the video. I just picked up and old truck that’s running rich AF with a Carter AFB. Going to go pick up a regulator in the morning.
Man I swear you done blew my mind. Still learning as I go but you connected a few dots for me and I greatly appreciate that. Kinda makes me wanna drill a hole in my carburetor add some glass seal it up lol. But the drill bit trick worked well for me resetting my floats. Thanks man.
You are the second Eldebrock video starts by chunking the unit across the room! Hail the sailing carbasauris🤠
I personally love edelbrocks. Great for daily drivers.
I'm pretty sure you proved elderbrock is a good carburetor. You drove your car's all over America.
Next best thing to fuel injection. Works at extreme angles with throwing a bunch of money at it like Holley. Quadrajunk is good for daily but with low gears and no overdrive the fuel bowl is small
with a 10.5:1 408 BBC, 280H Comp cam, about 26* idle timing, I'm just a skosh out of the tranfer slot to achieve a strong Idle. With 2 PCV valves btw.
That's why you generally see edelbrocks on mild setups. Next I'm gonna try a complete opening of the front PCV port into a small air cleaner, and hook up my PCV to the rear.
Otherwise it runs great, and I love the eddy's so much I was determined to make it work.
Edit... it's a 1413 800 CFM model. Also the two pcv valves are side by side, one in an oil fill cap hole. There's a breather on the opposite corner of the motor.
Making 15" Vacuum around 1000 RPM in Park,and about 10-12" in gear around 800 RPM.
Hey man, love your videos. FYI in case I missed it in the video you can actually run an edelbrock with the top plate off the carb. You can also change metering rods with it running as well.
I love Edelbrock carbs! Years ago, I threw all my Holley carbs and parts on the swap table and never looked back. They went for cheep too! Like your show, by the way...
Incapable of education I see ....
I always love the tech tips you provide. Thanks and keep up the great job!
Don’t be confused by the carb toss that I don’t like Edelbrocks. Great units 👍
Adjust edelbrock float height - vintage TH289 video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_tUw...
simple fuel pressure regulator: amzn.to/3asELjx
Chunking that carb was awesome, man I laughed. Thanks!
Aha, excellent explanation! So the higher the fuel pressure, the lower the float needs to sit in the fuel (at needle closed position) to maintain the same fuel level in the bowl. Thinking of the fuel pressure on the needle trying to push the float down, more fuel pressure makes the float resist the buoyant force - sort of like adding weight to a boat making it sit lower in the water. In that analogy, the people are fuel pressure and the float is the boat.
Yes, you understand it very well!!!
Fuel pressure regulator recommended by edelbrock in set up instructions. Also most important thing with edelbrock is matching set up springs to engine vacuum or they won't work proper.
That would be the fuel enrichment circuit on the main jets where when load reaches a point where you fall below a certain manifold vacuum, the springs come in and push the rods out of the jets effectively making a larger jet.
These are good carbs, easy to adjust out of the box. If you read the paperwork (which mine says no more than 6.5 psi fuel pressure) they also break down how to check floats and change jets/rods. Just pop the top off, the hardest part about it is not losing the linkage clips. This style of carb came on some serious muscle back in the day.
Youre correct, float bowl level is critical when tuning a carb. It should be the first thing that is completed. Especially critical on carbs without externally adjustable floats. Since there is little air velocity at low engine speed the carb idle circuit works mostly on the pressure differential between atmosphere and and manifold vacuum. Vacuum is created by the engine and atmospheric pressure pushes fuel out of the carb through the idle (low speed jets). When fuel level is high the carb requires less delta between atmosphere and intake pressure to deliver fuel. So high float level results in more fuel delivery and an idle mixture that is rich. Emulsification works a little differently in an edelbrock but im sure the effect is similar to a holley. High float level in a holley also results in more fuel getting pushed into the idle circuit but the higer fuel level also covers more of the emuslification tubes. More of the tube that is covered results in less emuslified fuel leaving the carb through the idle ports. With poor emuslification of fuel, the air speed through the intake is critical to atomization and vaporization of the fuel. Fuel must phase change into a vapor in order to burn in the combustion chamber. Fuel that does not emusilfy will not atomize, fuel that dont atomize wont vaporize. At idle we have low air speed so the Fuel that dont change phase and vaporize wont burn and we get a fat AFR at idle. So what do we do? close off the idle mix screws to compensate. The idle circuit also feeds the transfer slots. Both the idle circuit and transfer slots deliver fuel during off idle events. Since we closed off the idle mix screws a little to compensate for that fat idle there is less fuel available during transition and fuel delivered through the transfer slots is insufficient and we get an off idle stumble. . So what do we do now? Add another band-aid and adjust the accelerator pump to get more fuel during transition. Thats better. But wait, now we are into the high speed circuit. You also need to remember, the idle and transfer slots still deliver fuel even when on the high speed circuit. (More about how the idle circuit comes into play in a minute.) Now with the higher air speeds, the bernoulli effect comes into play. The high speed air flowing through the boosters creates a lower pressure system and fuel is pulled through the main jets and sprays out of the boosters. . The higher fuel bow level results in more fuel getting pulled through the boosters before air speed is fast enough to atomize and vaporize it and we get a bog. Remember the idle circuit is still delivering fuel but since we pinched off the mix screws its not a factor yet and the accelerator pump adjustment we made shot its load already. What do we do now...? Oh i know, change the rods to lean it out. Oh crap, now im lean at higher RPM...🤔. Shit, remember we pinched off the idle mix screws so there another reason why its lean. Im gonna mess with enrichment circuit now.....see where im going with this. As Luke said, float adjustment will bite you in the ass if you dont get it right in the beginning.
I don’t know if you are “Jim farmer” on Facebook who I normally talk to, but all that aside what you have posted is beautifully said.
I make these videos for the people who really care about figuring things out, which isn’t the masses.
It’s nice to be among like minded folks 👍
best fix for eldebrock carb, they work good everywhere ,EXCEPT for the off idle accelerator pump stumble on cam engines.
I have never liked Edelbrock Performer carbs. I have two of them that have been sitting on my shelf in my garage for over 20 years that I tried running on the engine in my 70 Monte Carlo back in the day. I bought both of them brand new. They both had an off idle bog that I could never get rid of no matter what I did. Even with being on the phone with their tech support. It was probably related to what you have been talking about with fuel pressure. I was running a mechanical pump with no pressure regulator. I ended up buying a new Edelbrock Quadrajet carb back when they still made them and put that on the car and it worked perfectly and is still on the car to this day.
Bro, now everything makes total sense. Thank you for this video! 👍
Thanks so much for the reply Luke! So I have a sbc 350 with an edelbrock 1406. I’m getting horrendous gas mileage and the engine seemed to knock or tap either when under moderate load like a hill or
I gotta say it thats the best sharpie cardboard blueprint I've ever seen love the carb parts pop ups lol people would but that diagram lol
Just wanted to say thanks for the inspiration to start filming my work restoring my 1973 Mach 1! It's been a lot of fun so far filming the process.
You should switch to a digital camera instead of film!
Very helpful! I did not know that! 5- 5 1/2 lbs of inlet fuel pressure on an edelbrock carb! Got it!
Hello question for ya. cant seem to get right answer. Do i check my vacuum in gear or park for selecting step up springs? Thanks
I have 17 hg in park so i used the pink Ant ideas? thanks sir.
Definitly in gear 👍
Well nice information. I have a new edel and it has way out specs other float. I kind off thought fuel pressure but ok now we know it matters . My carb overflow when standing hot. And was a way lean for mild 350 in stock, 600 cfm.
Watch [insert corporate show here] for years; Learn more from Luke and Kevin in 20 minutes. 👍🏼
Damn straight!
Before you start worrying about fuel pressure, best set the floats to spec. Never seen any Edel, even right out of the box that the floats were right!
Real good video guys. I love the violence in the beginning! Good touch. But real good info as well. I work with engines alot as my hobby & I'm learning my way around fine tuning carbs. I hadn't thought of some of this stuff. Thanks
Thanks so much
Another problem I’ve had with edelbrock is boiling fuel. Edelbrock makes a wooden spacer and it works great to insulate. With 5.5 psi and spacer no more hard starts.
Knock on wood. Have a edelbrock on both my 83 and 84 grand prix's and haven't had any issue's out of either one of them.
I've had a couple Turbo Regals, an '86 Cutlass, and some pretty interesting non-G-body cars like an SVT Cobra, a lot of F-bodies and a Spirit R/T. I gotta say, my '84 GP is the car I miss the most. It treated me a lot better than I treated it and never really cost me anything. I still have spare parts for that thing hoping it is going to come back some day.
Who all remember when Carter's and eldelbrocks were good on daily drivers and Holley was always blowing power valves. Heard Holley fixed that issue.
People still dont understand the nuances of how a carb works.
People choose a carb based on what runs better,
Not how to make what they already have run better.
Apples and oranges.
i thought the power valve issue was due to back fire through carburetor.. not necessarily problem with carb itself but a failure due to force exerted on the valve from a positive pressure rupturing the diaphragm... in the early 90's almost 30 years ago holley started putting blowout protection in its carbs.. a check valve of some sort.
Truth. I had an 82 Mustang GT w a 1970 302 that used the 82 fuel pump. When i went to the edelbrock it ran like crap. Read the manual closely and there was actually a note about ford fuel pumps delivering too much pressure. Put an adjustable pressure regulator and then it worked much better
To be fair, the install instructions that come with Edelbrock carbs says petty much all the info in this vid. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Buy the hard line inlet tube, and strap a fuel pressure gauge and pressure reg inline with it. Done. The brock is a great carb.. Especially the AVS2. Easy to tune, and great drivability.
For sure - everyone omits the regulator. I tried I. This video to explain why it’s important and hopefully twist some previously unwilling arms out there to do it!
@@ThunderHead289 don't get me wrong I thought the video was great. It's good info for people who think they know what they're doing without reading the instructions ;)
Thanks so much! My avs2 keeps running rich. Ive leaned the needles, changed the jet. Im gonna go lower the fuel pressure a bit more. Thanks!!
Silly question, but what makes you think it’s “rich” ?
@@ThunderHead289 because the fumes have been killing me. As Well as gas mileage.
@@scottmartinetti4875 carbs are pretty forgiving within reason, ignition timing will directly effect air fuel ratio - it sounds odd, I could explain it, but it would be lengthy.
Anyway, what is your initial timing on this engine?
@@ThunderHead289 hey thanks for the concern. I do need to re set the timing. 36 degrees at 4000rpm. However i reduced the fuel pressure, took it for a spin, and it's both smelling and running better now.
@@scottmartinetti4875 solid deal buddy
Not gonna lie, I'm a dumbass when it comes to carbs. Your videos have been incredibly helpful in helping me sort out some long term run issues that I've been having on a couple of my engines.
Thanks for all the great info you guys keep coming up with the best info for us carburetor and points guy's! Thanks so much you Rock!
Edelbrock carb can stay on the car and still change jets and what not. I have never had a problem with edelbrock but holly always gives me issues always
Holley are like VW valves. In that your always adjusting them.
Ive throwin over 30 holleys in the trash ! Ive ran Edelbrock carbs for over 30 years with a stock fuel pump . NEVER had a problem ! If you set your floats to low on a Edelbrock the gas wont fill up the well for the a accelerator pump resulting in a half squirt on your squirt on your accelerator pump !
Vic Edelbrock would give you a 👍👍 for your kind words n a Thank You. Team Edelbrock
@@weldorworx6858 you spend your time and set up any carb itll work good. But really it boils down to what you're more experienced with. I've had nothing but an easy time with holley products, while edelbrock kicked my ass, but that was because I knew holley, but not edelbrock. I'm sure theres a salty old GM tech out there that can get a Q-jet to run like a beast by sound alone. Holley and edelbrock wouldn't be making carbs if they were junk. You know?
@@jessiebickel2214 i am that salty crusty 57 year ol bastard that makes a Q jet eat everything else . Couldnt count on both hands and feet how many times i pulled a holley off somethin and put ther original q jet back on and watch em grin from ear ta ear . I ate a lot of 390s with a stock 307 . Stock but headers and a q jet . Put a 327 intake on it so i could have a 4 barrel . One guy had a 390 , .030 over . Class 3 melling cam headers , holley , msd . 4:10 gears . I came from behind the guy and went around and put 2 , 3 car lengths on him ! Nothin pulls like a well tuned spreadbore . This guy was my mechanic . Hes worked on holleys fr close ta 50 years . He still struggles with one here n ther . My other mechanic buddy . Just put a brand new holley on a fresh 400 sbc . Spent all week end tryin ta make the car run right . Brand new holley straight out the box . Finally gave up n dropped a edelbrock on . Car screams now ! In my 40 years experience ive seen several ppl go garage ta garage tryin make holley run . Then they got pointed my way . Back to a q jet . Holleys just seem inconsistent . Run taday n not tomorrow . All my buddies are holley fans . Complainin they only get 10 miles to the gallon . While i get 16 mpg on a stock 350 with 200,000 miles on it ! And eat ther lunch every time we race . Ill take a Q jet over anything ! My stock 400 in my plow truck . Headers n a q jet . Just kills these stock diesels lol . Trucks got 500,000 miles on it . 180,000 on a stock 400 sbc . It will smoke the tires half way through third gear . That stock 307 with a 3:08 posi would broil both tires half way through 2nd gear . I ate alot a cars with that 307 . To much fun ! Leave em standin ther goin FUCK i cant believe this ! Good times ! Be safe brother !
Thanks Luke for the video.
What carb do you recommend?
I have a stock 85 Trans Am, don't hate on me, lol. I like Fords too, in fact would love to get into a 78 Bronco... anyway... the TA has the stock qjet 4bbl, its a LG4 305 motor, just for wife and I to drive on occasion, runs fine to me, but if I ever replace it what carb would you recommend? Thanks.
How did it take me a year to find this video. LoL. We use a lot of Eddies on our stuff, and people at shows & cruises always ask why they run like they do without making your eyes water. "They all have pressure regulator's & gauges on them". Even if they are mechanical. Makes it Super Easy to see if you have pump/filter problems when you look at the gauge, & it looks cool as well. Before you even leave the store, you buy a Regulator & Pressure Gauge with it. IMO the guys at Edelbrock should just add the cost into the Carbs, and toss them into the box so you get it right, right out of the box. Would improve their PR even more than what it is now.
Damn Good Video man. Damn, damn good one.
Sorry, but had to add this. The hard part in this though, is when you buy a used one from someone. The problem was Exactly What You Said, but they've bought the "tuning kit" & miss-matched or drilled everything in it making it 100 times harder to get it back to "base-line". It's gotten to the point I don't even bother with "unknown" used ones anymore.
The Edelbrock will boil fuel also with this new gas. I dont like them very well but have one on my daughters k10. Air gap intake, heat shield on the fuel line, 1 inch phenolic spacer, runs great! I do think the summit motocraft carbs are better though
How to adjust choke fast idle. Edelbrock 600 cc on sbc 350
I love my Edelbrock carbs I think they're the most fine tunable for something that you drive everyday once you get it how you want it forget it as soon as you understand how vacuum makes the metering rod rise and fall I love mine can't say nothing bad about it at Cruise it's perfect you just give it a tiny bit more throttle as the vacuum Falls I can actually feel the metering rods raise and the power come in I always run 2 mr. Gasket cheap fuel pumps one near the tank one on the fender and a return line that is just a 70 thousandths orifice I set it up at sea level down in Florida and take it to North Carolina for the snow and never touch it I've never loved a carburetor more⚙🔩🔧⛽🇺🇸
Find me a $30 regulator. All the $30 ones are for high pressure fuel injection fuel delivery. It’s very hard these days to find a good 1 to 10 psi regulator and when you do they’re definitely not $30!
My F100 with a 390 had an Edelbrock 600 on it when I got it.
Going WOT at 3000RPM pumped out black smoke like a diesel... lol
4MPG cruising.
I didn't even bother with trying to tune it, buddy had a Holley 600 he hated so I traded with him. Ran fine on his, the Holley runs fine on mine. One time peak of 12.5MPG, average with 50/50 city/highway was 11.6.
Yup, even a mechanical pump is fine but only so long as it's a low pressure 5-6 psi pump. Great video luke.
Great video, hopefully this will get me one step closer to getting the Ford 302 in my 51 Ford F1 running like it could/should.
Ok, but the 2100 on my 302 just gives a bowl height from top of carburetor to top of bowl. There's no mention of where the actual fuel level should be. This really doesn't help much for stock carburetor applications.
Thank you for this video, seems like this is probably the problem with mine
Appreciate and agree with this all - expect throwing that carb - haha. I've put the work into tuning my Edelbrock and it straight RIPS in my car.
I very recently did up an edelbrock avs2 on my channel on a panel truck - perfected the afr via wideband, and it moves out exceptionally well.
I own a Chevelle with two Edelbrock av2 carbs and also have one on my 78 square body truck . They are to me the greatest carb for the money . The only mistake I think your making is that you're bolting them to a Ford
See that's what I was thinking ... but I'm biased because I build the 6.6L , 6.2L, 5.3+ and 4.3L Turbo at the Tonawanda Engine Plant. So Go Big, Go Chevy !! GM BUT SERIOUSLY BUY AMERICAN!+ STAND UP AMERICA!+ FIGHT FOR OUR FUTURES !!! GM, FORD STELLENTIS
Never thought about the relationship. Thanks for the light bulbs moment.
Used to be a big fan of holleys in the 90's. Easy to dial in but had to keep tightening the primary bowl occasionally until finally broke a screw. Bought carb new. Went with Carter AVS and Edelbrock ever since. Must have been a warped body.
I know this is an old video.but I have a question, and an issue with my Edelbrock Maybe it's not the carb but the problem is that I set the pressure with the regulator at say,6 lbs.as the engine warms up the fuel pressure drops to 4 or maybe even 3 lbs.this I know effects the float.i have done everything I can think of to fix it.any ideas?
I got a 1405 edelbrock car & edelbrock mechanical fuel pump. Do i meed a regulator. Edelbrock claims 6psi on pump out the box. ? No regulator required. Awesome video.
Running 4 psi on my Mopar with edelbrock runs great
Can an improper float setting cause a backfire upon load. I've tried everything and still get a backfire on hard acceleration. I can ride for hours under normal acceleration but stepping on it I will get a backfire. My setup is 65 Galaxie 500 with 352. Edelbrock performer intake and a 1806 carb. One thing I don't have is a regulator.
Edelbrock will always just be a Carter AVS to me. Albeit polished and logoed. The Carter carburetor lives on in the day of fuel injection. Meanwhile, good video.
The Edelbrock/carter were great units.
Just listen to your video on Edelbrock carburetors. My nephew has a 68 mustang with a 302 and a Edelbrock four barrel carburetor on it. He’s having nothing but difficulty with it running rough after it warms up at idle circuit and quitting or dying off I think he has too much fuel pressure, when he puts his Excelerator into it when he’s driving, it will backfire sometimes. Thanks for your info I will pass it along to my nephew.
Could be a warped flange, gasket leak at base. Warm it up and spray the base all around with carb clean. If it revs up or dies pull it off and also check intake with straight edge. I like the grease trick on base gasket also Luke!
That's what I think of Edelbrock carbs too, only I miss the garage door and get the box
Hey! I got one on my galaxie and she runs nice. No junk Holly's for me! Been told Holly is so finicky and hard to tune, but the Carter is sweet. Also the Quadra junk is good too.
Carter/Weber/Edelbrock are the same carburetor. Just depends on what year you bought them. Some of the older Edelbrocks have a "W" or Weber stamped on the drivers side
Yea... I know
In my ford f-460 it seems to run rich and smells up the yard (exhaust) w/750holly w/no air-fuel mixer screw
Great tip! What regulator would you suggest,
Linked!
@@ThunderHead289 sorry didnt look.
Ok you the guy who all us old timers need, so I Have a Demon 625 CFM part number 1902, it's been Nothing but trouble Sir.....
Edelbrock make a great carb I have been running one on my daily now for 4 years with no issues. Before that I had a bad experience with 2 brand new Holley 4160 an boy were they dogs. Build quality was that poor I could wiggle the kneedle an seat side to side with my finger. On the box it had "assembled in the USA" so only one could guess where their parts were made for that particular model anyway. I ended up getting my money back from the Holley performance shop I purchased from as they couldn't get neither running right. I'm not biased on this topic ither as I also run a Holley 2bbl and another 750dp on club cars I own and run very well but they were old rebuilt carbs years ago when quality parts existed.
If u buy the holly regulator make sure you also pick up Moroso- 65380 FITTING,FUEL HOSE.
stomping on the pedal. I checked my initial timing and it was at 16° advanced. I retarded it back to 12° which put mi total timing at 35°, but then it began to “run on”. I don’t hear any knock or tapping from the valves when open the throttle with the hood open in the driveway. Should I go back to the 16° initial timing which would put my total around 39°? And would a fuel pressure regulator help with my mileage?
Are you sporting an hei distributor? Sounds like you just need to limit your total timing via a mechanical stop in the distributor
Go for the Holley regulator. I bought a house-brand one from a big mail order parts company, it leaked - sent it back, they sent a replacement and the replacement leaked. Don't know about you, but I have a zero tolerance policy for fuel leaks. The Holley regulator was perfect from the get-go and hasn't leaked after a couple years of service so far.
Hi, can I ask what part number you recommend? Thanks!
Thanks for the infotainment 👍👍👍👍
Hello I have a question if you have the right jets in the perfect world primary and secondary should be the same jet size or not? 4.3 vortec marine 1409 carb Primary .095 secondary .0 92 do you think that sound right to you my secondary when he’s open it look like it’s missing fuel!! I disconnect the secondary and Run fine clean I connect the secondary in the engine almost stopped full throttle Regulator 5.5 psi Any help thanks
Would you ever do motorcraft carb videos? Ive pretty much mastered mine but it would be awesome learning some more stuff I probably dont know. Mainly on the choking setting up stuff. Ive got mine set right but at the same time.
It would also be awesome if you did a video on how power valves work, how to pick the right one based on your idle intake vacuum.
Edelbrock carbs are usually lean out of the box....requiring different needle jets
@Austin Carlson nope....cubes zdont have any effect on rich or lean carb settings.... a/f ratio is dependent on carb, not engine.
Ive been to 3 mechanics and what im spending is getting close to over a thousand. Tune up, timing adjustment and still same issue. Hard to re start on hot days. Rpms fade to zero when idling too long. Going to try fuel regulator plus carb spacer
Idle Timing is too late
@@ThunderHead289 hey thanks for the reply! I forgot to mention when I open the hood the idle returns to around 800 and it feels like it could run forever which is why I thought it was the heat issue. I watched one of your other videos so I know I can't do a return line because I have a mechanical fuel pump.
I put the indicated regulator in and it worked ok for a while then the pressure went to 2-3 lbs. So I was on the road and just bypassed it leaving the pressure gauge in which showed 8-10 lbs. It got me home but I have other problems with roughly idle, stalling the braking, and won't idle for long after accelerator let off. I did pull off all my smog stuff (1984 GMC K20 p/u with a 350 cid). The ego is still in with a vacuum nipple on it. Bit I was told you have to put a cut off plate since the EGR may have stuck when I d/cd the smog junk. So anyways....I will block off the EGR hole, put new fuel filter (40 micron), not sure what else to do?? Any advice? thanks
Good stuff! Edelbrock carbs aren’t terrible but characteristics in performance remind me of a Qjet …..they run good but just don’t seem to have the performance output of a Holley!
got question for you ....i just rebuild my chevy 350 1990 k5 blazer i converted it over from tbi to carb ..i did a few up grade on the engine high performance intake headers 3' pipes all way back up graded the cam to a howard rattler cam 525 intake lift 535 exhaust duration 227/235 lobe separation 109 center line 103 i still the same factory heads on there i believe they the swirl port heads ..i no i should have went with some better heads but the engine was already done. i put a brand new 1406 edelbrock carb on it right out the box every sence i put that carb on there i been using alot of fuel i set the carb best as posible ..im using a awful lot of fuel just with it iding..i have my pressure regulator set at 5psi..dont no why im losing so mush fuel
Try adjusting the idle air bleed screws 1.5 turns out from LIGHTLY seated, then fine tune it with a vacuum gauge evenly.
Great info, but exactly what problems will this cause? I have a horrible hesitation, and snapping and popping once it accelerates.
Damn it! You just helped me with the Proform 650DP on the last video, and now "screwalled" me on my twin Eldelbrocks for my BB 496! Regulator coming. I got 3 birds the hand! How cool is that?!
where do you install the regulator? close to the carb just like a filter?
Doesn't the Edelbrock carburetor list specifications on acceptable inlet fuel pressure? If so, step one is to provide it, and you need a pressure gage to know. I think there are 2 types of pressure regulators. One is a series regulator, termed "pressure reducing", which controls the pressure at its outlet. The other type is termed "back-pressure regulator" which controls the pressure at its inlet by venting excess fuel back to the fuel tank (or pump inlet). The "pressure relief valve" built into some electric fuel pumps is a version. Best to run a return line back to the fuel tank for a back-pressure type to avoid vapor in the system. That also gets you set for later EFI-type pump if you drop the carburetor for a fuel injection system,
I do not like the double bowl holley carbs BUT i recently bought the new Holley DEMON and put it on a project car, so far its great! Do you know anything about them? I havent really gotten into adjustments yet but it worked right out of the box to start the car, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
you said on one of your other videos that you weren't able to keep good pressure with a mechanical fuel pump that also had a regulator, so when you add a regulator do you always swap to an electric fuel pump? or is that only on vehicles where you have fuel return that you have to have an electric fuel pump to keep enough pressure on the system that has return? seems like it shouldnt matter if there is return or not, if there's a regulator then either kind of pump should work. what am i misunderstanding here?
Hi ThunderHead, thanks so much for your effort to teach us. I know this video has been a long time but could you help me with my question? I have a Mustang with v8 302, Edelbrock carb 4 barrel and mechanical pump. You in my position will install a fuel pressure regulator and gauge anyway?
1st install a temporary "T" and test fuel pressure. Some parts store have a fuel pressure test kit in a Loan-A-Tool program. Give it a few revs, if its roughly 5.25PSI you're good
Is a 750 to big for a sbc chevy 350?? Mine pops bad when at WOT?????
I just took the 2 barrel carb of and switch it to a 4 barrel intake and edelbrock card had it running but having some timing problems each is we are off a tooth or two on time but its had starting so it makes sense with the regular I will have to get one and by the way it's a 1980 Thunderbird with a 302 trying to make it to power tourer but its up in the air with the hole virus thing so not sure I can make it like to here you thoughts on what I have done so far
Throw a timing light on there! Engines are very sensitive to timing - 2 degrees even makes a huge difference
I guess I don't quite understand fuel bowl fuel level. I just assumed as long as you don't run your fuel bowl out of fuel or totally flood it. It doesn't matter to much....what I'm trying to say is I always thought of a fuel bowel like a mini gas tank. Just like the real gas tank level isn't super important for performance. Can you explain how low vs high float level changes the metering part of carb?
Okay re watched and head pressure explains it thank for the video.
Okay that was an awesome video. I have an Edelbrock 1408 / Carter afb. I don't know exactly what it is. I had a vacuum leak going to the vacuum advance. I plugged that off from the carburetor. It runs awesome with no vacuum going to the distributor. Is this going to mess things up in the long run?
Run a new vacuum line from the port on the front of the carb that DOESN'T suck your finger at idle directly to advance.
Good advice, and something i had not known before.
I'm in Alexandria Minnesota hope to see you sometime come visit after this virus thing is under control
will the drawing be for sale in the gift shop? great video btw
I'm having trouble with fuel pressure.i have a good regulator,I think...I can't keep the pressure constant.when the engine is cold pressure at 5.5 to 6.when it warms up it drops to 3.any thoughts?
Your at 5.5-6. When the gauge warms up it falsely drops pressure on the needle.
@@ThunderHead289 it even does it when the gauge isn't under the hood.I hooked one up temporarily in the car just to see what was going on while going down the road.
@@ThunderHead289 while I'm in here I have another question. what is the percentage area of the auto tune in the carb cheater telling me
I have a carter carb on my 352 ford. It looks almost new . I see Edelbrock bought the rights to this design . Is there any way to tell how old this Carter carb is ? The 352 runs great with it but will change over to a Holley at some point . Thanks .
Great video, guys! I've never ran one of these carburetors, I've always been a Holley guy. You learn something new every day, right? LOL!
Love all your videos thank's, but i have a question, if i have a return line i wont get more pressure event if i have a strong fuel pump because once the float needle shut the fuel going in the fuel is going right to the return line and not making more pressure the the float right?
Is it a constant speed electric or a mechanical? 🤔
And thanks btw!
@@ThunderHead289 it's a constant electric pump for the moment
Good to know! Why isn't this a problem on Holleys? Because you can adjust the float height to compensate?