I used to weld cast hitch couplers to steal plate box sections at a rail car manufacturer, we would press fit the two pieces together and preheat the cast with a rose bud torch just over 300 and tested with a temp pencil before welding the whole thing solid with high nickle welding wire. We rarely had anything crack during cooling as the cast was so thick that it naturally took a long time to cool down.
Yeah nylatron. Love it, we made rear sprockets out of it for our triumph motorcycles in the 80’s . Sold it and saw it again in the 90’s, still had the nylon sprocket on it. Amazing stuff.
Good morning Josh, Great repair video. Nice work on the wheel repair. The little heating table you made obviously works really well. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks ever so much for the video. I am glad that you were able to find the cracks before the spokes had total failure. I am not a welder but what a interesting process. I was a painter in the Air Force and industrial painter; I sort of wish that you would have cleaned and painted it but that is just me. I had no idea that you could replace the bushing with plastic. Great job on the video and on the job. I hope that you meet your goal and have the crane rolling soon.
I'm almost always against paint. Paint doesn't make it work better. In most cases makes it last shorter due to trapping water. Paint doesn't pay the bills.
@@paveloleynikov4715 I personally find that oil just washes off with rain, so not an option for me and a pollutant , my goto is a natural mix of rosin beeswax and linseed oil which sets up a soft pliable waterproof covering, if you apply it warm it doesnt get water inside but the down side is my bees steal it to use for propolis.....so I have to keep reapplying it...I do however only use it on surfaces I need to keep good like my anvils which have had to be stored outside for a while ..
Well now I see my next project as a copy of your preheat table. I already have the burner and propane regulator. It'll really come in handy around the farm. Thanks again for taking the time to create these videos and passing on your knowledge.
As mesmerizing as the machining is, I think these are my favorite videos. Naturally, money-making work always comes first. ✊🏻 Absolute self-taught novice welder here, but I’ve never really considered heating my work before welding. I’ll have to look into that.
In BERMUDA, Bos'n for Bermuda Pilot Gig Club, 32 ft, 6 oar rowing boats. Salt water rendered trailer wheel bearings a short life. Knock all the bearings out, replace with 2" Delrin with 1" axle bore. Some into their 9th year of use. No greasing other other maintainance other than garden hose.
The plastics and bonding agents that have become common in the past 40 to 50 years are amazing. When I started as an engine engineer at Ford in Dearborn, the word was cast iron. The switch to aluminum for cylinder blocks was challenging. Cast aluminum oil pans were tough too. Cast aluminum doesn’t have great impact strength and stuff hanging down low tends to take hits. So the guys who decided oil pans could be made of plastic - let’s just say they graduated from a different engineering school than I did!
The Nylatron should work fine for this application and have the added bonus of being running a lot smoother. 👍👍 For those that are curious _Nylatron_ is PA66 grade of Nylon, which is the same material used in almost all power tool clam shells today, but instead of it having glass fiber reinforcing, it's impregnated with a molybdenum disulfide powder to act as a lubricant. It's a great substitute for cast iron, cast steel, brass & bronze bushings.
Hi Josh, as someone who has industrial deafness and tinnitus, I was a bit concerned that you weren't wearing hearing protection when you were grinding the cracks, and using the needle gun. I know the modern trend tends to go a bit overboard as far as safety is concerned, but hearing is just as important as everything else. Cheers !
awesome job on the wheel. the only thing i would have done differently is weld the last spoke with a stainless filler so that is does not pull as much on the other spokes as it cools. helps prevent future cracking.
Good job. Back in the 1980's I ran a Bucyrus Dragline for several years.The service manual for that thing recommended 7016 rods and preheat for those repairs.A 7016 has worked great for me on several cast steel repairs.Enjoy your videos.Thanks
The mig wire I use is equivalent to 7108. It has proven itself many times. In reality, I think most people are scared of mig welding or are ill equipped to do this work. Most people use that garbage flux core wire. Mig with proper shielding gas will always be better. Stick welding is always going to be the best field repair method.
@@TopperMachineLLC You are exactly right.I ran a service truck for 45 yrs along with operating equipment.Most all repairs had to be done on site because of the size of the equipment.Nice to talk to people who understand how real life works.The struggles are real,but the rewards are good.Thanks Josh.Keep up the good work
I'm not in the habit of looking at tools unless I need something. So was surprised to see those combination wrenckes with the ends 90 from each other. That's a briliant design. Going to have to pick me up a set of Standard and Metric.
I just bought a 2"x4' piece of nylatron to make auger flighting bushings. There's a T bar that holds the bushing to the safety cage at the bottom. We'll see how the hold up. Bronze lasts about 3 or 4 years. I figured after watching this, I'd give it a go. Maybe it'll work, maybe it won't. I'll let yall know.
I think you will be very surprised at how it works. Honestly I'm a little concerned about my application, but willing to try it over bronze to save on cost. I know it has held up extremely well in similar applications, yet I'm just a little skeptical. Worst case I have to make bronze ones.
@@TopperMachineLLC Another plastic, HDPE, is used in a washer form between the bolster and bolster bowl on rail cars and locomotives with success in reducing wear.
Thank you for the explanation of the heating and cooling regime. The table with the blanket seemed to be the key to get an even temp. Given also that it wasn’t a huge component, the length of time for the cooling cycle was not something I expected. No doubt to give plenty of temp to allow the stresses to relieve. Wouldn’t it be great if your temperature gun had a magic x-ray setting that showed the stresses like you see in a finite element analysis picture.
hello Josh, just realized that Welderfabber over in England has the same shipping container as you do......hope all is good, and Arn Fest was a blast for you........best wishes, Paul in Florida
Out of curiosity ( only )! Out of 4 wheels only one wheel cracked? I'm not a welder, I tried to weld a cracked bell housing, I didn't preheat and I welded both sides. I was proud of my self, it looked good. As it was cooling I heard a loud snap sound. My weld broke in half, both sides! Is it possible the bell housing was under stress? I think I did it wrong! Wish I had videos like you show how to do it right the first time! BTW my attempt to fix this was back in 1966. On a 1944 jeep, with bullet holes!! People would stop a ask questions about the jeep with 15 bullet holes in it. One ARMY veteran stopped and started rubbing the jeep, and he started to cry! I asked are you ok? He said it brought back bad memories that's all. ........ Sorry for long story. I learned something to day! Thank you.
Carbon steel sparks are bright and fork off, cast iron are straighter and not as bright. You can spark test known cast iron and steel and readily see the difference. Right Top?
Bronzes self lubricating. What provides the lubrication on that plastic, and what are the properties of that plastic. How to record it out of bronze and then put a zerk fitting in it so that I can lubricate the inside of that shaft just enough with something like CRC brake Lube which would be an excellent lubricant for that bushing.
@@joeg7755 I've done it for others. By using it on my crane, I'm testing the theories and claims of the material. I'll keep everyone posted as I use the crane.
Certainly the MIG is way Way faster than silicon bronze (torch) brazing with a lot less prep and heat. As you said you've been doing this type of repair for years, you don't see these cracking again? Seems like a pretty high stress part. Or were you MIG brazing? Thanks for the great video!
MHS, from the spark test he did it looks like cast low carbon steel so standard 7018 wire ought to do fine, let's assume that wire was in his MIG welder and again an assumption on my part he uses Ar/CO2 as his shield gases and he used low amps to continue his low distortion low hydrogen process. All temps used are °F of course since he did not state C or K. If it was cast iron, of one of the three types that can be hot worked he might have used torch brazing with sil-bronze and flux, but again with the pre and post heating and temp management throughout as was shown. The high stresses laterally seem to be the reason for the cracks, hard to add strength since this is cast steel sections near to the hub and without checking for wobble in the system supporting the hub/wheel who knows if this repair will last for the next hundred years. Poor maintenance and bad work habits (moving and turning with high side stress) seem to have been the reason for the failure stresses to begin with. Lots of crane operators are not the owners and do not care about doing it right to begin with.
While brazing would have worked, it was cast steel and completely weldable. Having done several repairs like this, with zero failures, I am confident it will work for my needs.
Is plastic better than bronze in a dirt contaminated with the grease situation? Plastics are amazing though in many applications. Must be some really good stuff. I remember welding cast iron spokes on farm machinery packer wheels decades ago and chasing the recracking one after the next (no preheat) it was a struggle.
I was surprised when considered replacing my mini excavator bucket bushings I found that the allowable load on plastic vs bronze was only about 10 to 20 percent less than some bronze. I would have guessed it was less than half. I did it because at the time all I had on hand was delrin in the size I needed, 3 years later and they are holding up great
they use Nylatron for very large sheaves on very large cranes.....like 1,000 ton Liebherr and bigger.... we used for sheaves for theater rigging pulley blocks that were 12 inch diameter..... I brought home a 1/4 inch drop and gave to mu dog who loved frisbees and would destroy one in about 30 minutes.....it was impossible for him to even dent it.....we did have to put a bend on the band saw teeth to give a wider kerf to cut the 12 inch solid to keep it from binding..... a great product in this old mans opinion....Paulie Brown in Orlando, aka ypaulbrown
Good taking time to try to best case for good repair. Not positive, but I thought I heard something crack at 17:04 when you were peening. Could a new crack have happened then, that you rewelded?
I've heard and seen that it is a good idea to have a short hose whip screwed directly into air hammers as it isolates the QD fittings from the tool vibration. I sort of suspect the same might be true for needle scalers.
Yes, and it is something I plan to do. Problem is that I use hydraulic hose for air hose, so cost is a huge factor. Regular air hose just doesn't hold up to the abuse in a shop setting.
@@TopperMachineLLC hydraulic hose definitely would be more robust and last longer. I wonder if it would be beneficial for short whips from regular air hose that would be considered “consumable “ items. Might need to replace couple times a year depending on abuse that it sees. I’ve taken to using old school wire tie to repair hoses. Much better than hose clamps, and cheaper than ferrules, if you can find the right ones to replace OEM. I tend to repair stuff, but if you’re in a workplace and time=$ and you are always busy billing high hourly rate then it probably just pays to buy new and save time. But I like to save where I can in my hobby shop.
@@TopperMachineLLC Interesting. On my air hammer I have a ... goodyear?... rubber hose whip which seems to be high quality but I honestly don't use the air hammer all that often. Before I put the whip on, it absolutely beat the fittings to death with just an hour or so of use.
Do you know offhand what wall thickness is the minimum for Nylatron bushings? I have some small nachines with 1/16" or less bushings and it sounds promising to do those jobs. Thanks!
Great work, Josh! Does there ever come a point in this type of repair where you ponder remaking those wheels completely from scratch out of either new steel or salvaged car rims? A remake would be a pretty finicky fabrication, I'm not downplaying that path. Yah, car rims are round, but those wheels have a number of features that would be time consuming to hack out.
In this case, no. Repair is the best method. If it were far worse, yes, new would be best. I would use way better material than a car rim. Probably start with 1" plate and burn out the rings, solid bar for the center. No spokes, just solid plate.
I'm thinking that the plastic is going to be far less tolerant of conditions close to failure where excessive heat is generated. So it might work well up to that point, perhaps even lasting longer, then fail rapidly when it starts to get hot where the brass or bronze would fail more slowly. That might be ok, but is something that you'd want to keep in mind when you notice a problem and think "I'm going to have to fix that, but it should last through this job"
A really nice repair done exceptionally well. You say the welds don't look pretty...but they look pretty to me! Curious what caused the cracks in the first place. Maybe it slid sideways and hit some really solid like a big honkin' rock? Interesting!
The way you're doing it you're going to get more stress on one side than the other because the one side will shrink before you get to weld the other side and cause it to be pulled to one side. Then when the welds on the other side try to shrink up, it will stress them.
I guess since the machine is so old it wouldn't have been cost effective to just machine a new track tensioner or guide wheel what brand of machine is it?
Are you going to clean off all the rust on the wheels before reinstalling them? And, if so, what method would you use? And are you going to paint them and the drag line itself. Just curious on what level of restoration you are aiming for . . . . . . .
Good question. Not that I have seen. This will be the true test. At the cost of bronze, I wanted to try this out. I can always make new ones in bronze if they don't hold up.
@@TopperMachineLLC Delrin has been pretty good to me, but nothing even close to that kind of pressure. It will indeed be an interesting test once you get the tracks back on it.
always enjoy your work. Do yourself a favor and incorporate hearing protection into your jobs. You'll be happy you did in 20 years. Ask me how I know....
Here I was thinking you were doing everything perfectly, then you forgot to computer spin balance it! Just wait until you hit 65 mph on that thing now! The vibration's gonna drive you nuts!
@@TopperMachineLLC Hmm...maybe the other bushing stayed well lubed and this one didn't. My experience with bushings is they are good until they aren't and then they just get much worse after that. The broken spokes theory makes sense. Too much side loading would have cracked them. How did a quicky grind on the metal tell you it was cast steel instead of cast iron?
While sandblasting would help the closest sandblasting place is an hour away. Remember, I am in an extremely economically depressed region. There isn't much left here, and more leaving.
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Yes, kids, getting it done right the first time takes skill and patience. Nice to see a master at work, Josh!
I used to weld cast hitch couplers to steal plate box sections at a rail car manufacturer, we would press fit the two pieces together and preheat the cast with a rose bud torch just over 300 and tested with a temp pencil before welding the whole thing solid with high nickle welding wire. We rarely had anything crack during cooling as the cast was so thick that it naturally took a long time to cool down.
Yeah nylatron. Love it, we made rear sprockets out of it for our triumph motorcycles in the 80’s . Sold it and saw it again in the 90’s, still had the nylon sprocket on it. Amazing stuff.
Enjoyed, interesting, never heard of nylatron. Sounds like amazing material. Thanks for the welding procedures tips.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Ey up Tony mate 😊
Looking forward to seeing that track system back together and moving!
You and me both.
Good morning Josh,
Great repair video. Nice work on the wheel repair. The little heating table you made obviously works really well.
Thanks for sharing.
That little table has been a lifesaver, and it's been really useful for all kinds of things.
Thanks ever so much for the video. I am glad that you were able to find the cracks before the spokes had total failure. I am not a welder but what a interesting process. I was a painter in the Air Force and industrial painter; I sort of wish that you would have cleaned and painted it but that is just me. I had no idea that you could replace the bushing with plastic. Great job on the video and on the job. I hope that you meet your goal and have the crane rolling soon.
I'm almost always against paint. Paint doesn't make it work better. In most cases makes it last shorter due to trapping water. Paint doesn't pay the bills.
@@TopperMachineLLCand what about oil finishes?
@@paveloleynikov4715 I personally find that oil just washes off with rain, so not an option for me and a pollutant , my goto is a natural mix of rosin beeswax and linseed oil which sets up a soft pliable waterproof covering, if you apply it warm it doesnt get water inside but the down side is my bees steal it to use for propolis.....so I have to keep reapplying it...I do however only use it on surfaces I need to keep good like my anvils which have had to be stored outside for a while ..
Well now I see my next project as a copy of your preheat table. I already have the burner and propane regulator. It'll really come in handy around the farm. Thanks again for taking the time to create these videos and passing on your knowledge.
It has been handy.
Amazing that plastic is made that can take the place of those bushings. Thanks for showing us!
Who knew???😊😊😊
As mesmerizing as the machining is, I think these are my favorite videos. Naturally, money-making work always comes first. ✊🏻 Absolute self-taught novice welder here, but I’ve never really considered heating my work before welding. I’ll have to look into that.
Your experience and knowledge saved this part, going at it without those attributes would have ended in a botched job! Well executed!
I've seen so many things fixed incorrectly, and then be absolutely unrepairable. With irreplaceable parts, I don't have that luxury
Such a steady highly experienced engineer/mechanic in his very professional shop working with confidence.
Another great video. I am glad to see you getting the drag line going.
Undoubtedly, but, definitely, knowledge, experience, understanding , and , professionalism, that is really what matters.
In BERMUDA, Bos'n for Bermuda Pilot Gig Club, 32 ft, 6 oar rowing boats. Salt water rendered trailer wheel bearings a short life. Knock all the bearings out, replace with 2" Delrin with 1" axle bore. Some into their 9th year of use. No greasing other other maintainance other than garden hose.
Plastics are awesome.
The plastics and bonding agents that have become common in the past 40 to 50 years are amazing. When I started as an engine engineer at Ford in Dearborn, the word was cast iron. The switch to aluminum for cylinder blocks was challenging. Cast aluminum oil pans were tough too. Cast aluminum doesn’t have great impact strength and stuff hanging down low tends to take hits. So the guys who decided oil pans could be made of plastic - let’s just say they graduated from a different engineering school than I did!
The Nylatron should work fine for this application and have the added bonus of being running a lot smoother. 👍👍
For those that are curious _Nylatron_ is PA66 grade of Nylon, which is the same material used in almost all power tool clam shells today, but instead of it having glass fiber reinforcing, it's impregnated with a molybdenum disulfide powder to act as a lubricant. It's a great substitute for cast iron, cast steel, brass & bronze bushings.
So then, when greasing you should use a Moly based grease.
Thank you another very enjoyable video I learned about the heating Cast steel before welding as tp temps.
Nice repair. I alway like seeing cast pieces fixed.
No OEM parts available, so you fix the one you have. Nice content. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Josh, as someone who has industrial deafness and tinnitus, I was a bit concerned that you weren't wearing hearing protection when you were grinding the cracks, and using the needle gun. I know the modern trend tends to go a bit overboard as far as safety is concerned, but hearing is just as important as everything else. Cheers !
I wear ear plugs. I already have a lot if hearing loss and I am working hard to keep what I have left.
@@TopperMachineLLC After I posted my remark, I did wonder if you were indeed wearing ear plugs, they weren't visible, so my bad,
awesome job on the wheel. the only thing i would have done differently is weld the last spoke with a stainless filler so that is does not pull as much on the other spokes as it cools. helps prevent future cracking.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge ..I always learn something.
Good job. Back in the 1980's I ran a Bucyrus Dragline for several years.The service manual for that thing recommended 7016 rods and preheat for those repairs.A 7016 has worked great for me on several cast steel repairs.Enjoy your videos.Thanks
The mig wire I use is equivalent to 7108. It has proven itself many times. In reality, I think most people are scared of mig welding or are ill equipped to do this work. Most people use that garbage flux core wire. Mig with proper shielding gas will always be better. Stick welding is always going to be the best field repair method.
@@TopperMachineLLC You are exactly right.I ran a service truck for 45 yrs along with operating equipment.Most all repairs had to be done on site because of the size of the equipment.Nice to talk to people who understand how real life works.The struggles are real,but the rewards are good.Thanks Josh.Keep up the good work
Thanks for sharing some may call it a farmer repair but it doesn’t need to look pretty to be effective 😊
Exactly. As a working restoration, I want it to look like a field fix.
I hope you manage to get another. It's nice to see a keen kid
Already got one.
It is great to see work on the crane. The fix looks fantastic
Nice work ! make up a "whip" hose for your scaler, makes all air tools easier to use.
I'm planning on doing that. Hydraulic hose is expensive. I no longer use air hose in the shop. It's all Hydraulic hose.
this is a well deserved beer video for sure.....
I think it's perfect. Testing it will prove it, and I always want to prove my work.
I will be proving it next summer. Got big plans for this thing. Deep holes.
I'm not in the habit of looking at tools unless I need something. So was surprised to see those combination wrenckes with the ends 90 from each other. That's a briliant design. Going to have to pick me up a set of Standard and Metric.
Hi Josh. Those inserts for cutting aluminium are brilliant on plastics.
I just bought a 2"x4' piece of nylatron to make auger flighting bushings. There's a T bar that holds the bushing to the safety cage at the bottom. We'll see how the hold up. Bronze lasts about 3 or 4 years. I figured after watching this, I'd give it a go. Maybe it'll work, maybe it won't. I'll let yall know.
I think you will be very surprised at how it works. Honestly I'm a little concerned about my application, but willing to try it over bronze to save on cost. I know it has held up extremely well in similar applications, yet I'm just a little skeptical. Worst case I have to make bronze ones.
@@TopperMachineLLC Another plastic, HDPE, is used in a washer form between the bolster and bolster bowl on rail cars and locomotives with success in reducing wear.
Great video! Thanks Josh.
Another great repair Josh!
Would nylatron be suitable for new bushings in an old reciprocating mechanical hacksaw? Nice work, well planned and executed.
Good winter project
If only I had inside space.
Love a nice practical repair Josh, job done right as always buddy, thanks for sharing
Thank you for the explanation of the heating and cooling regime. The table with the blanket seemed to be the key to get an even temp. Given also that it wasn’t a huge component, the length of time for the cooling cycle was not something I expected. No doubt to give plenty of temp to allow the stresses to relieve. Wouldn’t it be great if your temperature gun had a magic x-ray setting that showed the stresses like you see in a finite element analysis picture.
That would be awesomevb
That's a very cool old machine. Nice repair.
hello Josh, just realized that Welderfabber over in England has the same shipping container as you do......hope all is good,
and Arn Fest was a blast for you........best wishes, Paul in Florida
Thank you Josh!
Remember my father replacing kingpin bushing on 37 Ford with plastic ones, no reaming required.
Great Video! What is your thoughts on using grease with Nylatron? I was always told not to use grease on Nylatron.
10:37 it's remarkable to me that you can determine the material with a quick grind. That's just years of experience, I suppose.
good repair
Nice job Topper.
Thanks for a wonderful video on this repair
Thanks for watching!
I could see the tension building up when you were applying pressure to the bush and I was expecting it to suddenly go, and it did.
Another excellent video
Help me learn a little more, how can the nyltron have similar wear resistantance to brass when it machines so easily ?
I don't know, but it does. Plastics have been replacing metal bearings for a lot of things, and lasting way longer.
I like this project.
Another awesome video Josh. I enjoy all that you video and put out. Keep up the great job.
From kiwi land
Thanks a lot! I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
45 years ago, I used the same powder and spray to detect cracks in “ CATERPILLAR “ engines, specifically, cylinder heads.
Out of curiosity ( only )! Out of 4 wheels only one wheel cracked? I'm not a welder, I tried to weld a cracked bell housing, I didn't preheat and I welded both sides. I was proud of my self, it looked good. As it was cooling I heard a loud snap sound. My weld broke in half, both sides! Is it possible the bell housing was under stress? I think I did it wrong! Wish I had videos like you show how to do it right the first time! BTW my attempt to fix this was back in 1966. On a 1944 jeep, with bullet holes!! People would stop a ask questions about the jeep with 15 bullet holes in it. One ARMY veteran stopped and started rubbing the jeep, and he started to cry! I asked are you ok? He said it brought back bad memories that's all. ........ Sorry for long story. I learned something to day! Thank you.
Sounds to me that the bell housing was cast iron instead of cast steel. With cast iron, brazing would be better.
I understand your concern about heat distortion but I'm surprised you were worried about cracking in cast steel.
Nailed it! Nice repair
Thanks!
Due to the voids where the cracks are on the spokes, could the outer rim be out of line?
I was wondering if you use grease with the Nylatron bushes and you answered my question before I could ask it.
Perfectly positive comment
Understand the grind test for steel but what are you looking for in particular/ great videos. thanks
Carbon steel sparks are bright and fork off, cast iron are straighter and not as bright. You can spark test known cast iron and steel and readily see the difference. Right Top?
Bronzes self lubricating. What provides the lubrication on that plastic, and what are the properties of that plastic.
How to record it out of bronze and then put a zerk fitting in it so that I can lubricate the inside of that shaft just enough with something like CRC brake Lube which would be an excellent lubricant for that bushing.
Hey Josh, do you think Nylatron would be good replacement for worn bushings on a full sized backhoe? I wonder how it would hold up?
@@joeg7755 I've done it for others. By using it on my crane, I'm testing the theories and claims of the material. I'll keep everyone posted as I use the crane.
Certainly the MIG is way Way faster than silicon bronze (torch) brazing with a lot less prep and heat. As you said you've been doing this type of repair for years, you don't see these cracking again? Seems like a pretty high stress part. Or were you MIG brazing?
Thanks for the great video!
MHS, from the spark test he did it looks like cast low carbon steel so standard 7018 wire ought to do fine, let's assume that wire was in his MIG welder and again an assumption on my part he uses Ar/CO2 as his shield gases and he used low amps to continue his low distortion low hydrogen process.
All temps used are °F of course since he did not state C or K.
If it was cast iron, of one of the three types that can be hot worked he might have used torch brazing with sil-bronze and flux, but again with the pre and post heating and temp management throughout as was shown.
The high stresses laterally seem to be the reason for the cracks, hard to add strength since this is cast steel sections near to the hub and without checking for wobble in the system supporting the hub/wheel who knows if this repair will last for the next hundred years.
Poor maintenance and bad work habits (moving and turning with high side stress) seem to have been the reason for the failure stresses to begin with. Lots of crane operators are not the owners and do not care about doing it right to begin with.
While brazing would have worked, it was cast steel and completely weldable. Having done several repairs like this, with zero failures, I am confident it will work for my needs.
Would have liked to seen the bearing fit-up on the shafts. Did you have any issues? I know Nylatron is not a stable material.
Good job
Is plastic better than bronze in a dirt contaminated with the grease situation? Plastics are amazing though in many applications. Must be some really good stuff. I remember welding cast iron spokes on farm machinery packer wheels decades ago and chasing the recracking one after the next (no preheat) it was a struggle.
The plastics are direct bronze replacements. Whilevindontbknow about dirt contamination, it's wear characteristics is similar or better than bronze.
I was surprised when considered replacing my mini excavator bucket bushings I found that the allowable load on plastic vs bronze was only about 10 to 20 percent less than some bronze. I would have guessed it was less than half. I did it because at the time all I had on hand was delrin in the size I needed, 3 years later and they are holding up great
I wonder if that nylarton would preform better in a suspension component as compared to the red poly bushing material?
Call a plastics supplier and they should be able to help you out.
Fascinating!
thanks
I enjoyed the video like I usually do. I was very impressed to see your Johnson very prominently displayed in some shots.
Why are you looking at my Johnson? I'll have to double check my zipper before filming. Lol
they use Nylatron for very large sheaves on very large cranes.....like 1,000 ton Liebherr and bigger....
we used for sheaves for theater rigging pulley blocks that were 12 inch diameter.....
I brought home a 1/4 inch drop and gave to mu dog who loved frisbees and would destroy one
in about 30 minutes.....it was impossible for him to even dent it.....we did have to put a bend on
the band saw teeth to give a wider kerf to cut the 12 inch solid to keep it from binding.....
a great product in this old mans opinion....Paulie Brown in Orlando, aka ypaulbrown
Looks like there's a lot of different Nylatron products... which one are you using here?
I'd have to go look, but it is the onevthat was recommended to replace bronze bearings.
Good taking time to try to best case for good repair.
Not positive, but I thought I heard something crack at 17:04 when you were peening. Could a new crack have happened then, that you rewelded?
I did a second die penetrant test after the video was done. All good.
I've heard and seen that it is a good idea to have a short hose whip screwed directly into air hammers as it isolates the QD fittings from the tool vibration. I sort of suspect the same might be true for needle scalers.
Yes, and it is something I plan to do. Problem is that I use hydraulic hose for air hose, so cost is a huge factor. Regular air hose just doesn't hold up to the abuse in a shop setting.
@@TopperMachineLLC hydraulic hose definitely would be more robust and last longer. I wonder if it would be beneficial for short whips from regular air hose that would be considered “consumable “ items. Might need to replace couple times a year depending on abuse that it sees.
I’ve taken to using old school wire tie to repair hoses. Much better than hose clamps, and cheaper than ferrules, if you can find the right ones to replace OEM.
I tend to repair stuff, but if you’re in a workplace and time=$ and you are always busy billing high hourly rate then it probably just pays to buy new and save time.
But I like to save where I can in my hobby shop.
@@TopperMachineLLC Interesting. On my air hammer I have a ... goodyear?... rubber hose whip which seems to be high quality but I honestly don't use the air hammer all that often. Before I put the whip on, it absolutely beat the fittings to death with just an hour or so of use.
Do you know offhand what wall thickness is the minimum for Nylatron bushings? I have some small nachines with 1/16" or less bushings and it sounds promising to do those jobs. Thanks!
I do not, but worth a try.
Great work, Josh! Does there ever come a point in this type of repair where you ponder remaking those wheels completely from scratch out of either new steel or salvaged car rims? A remake would be a pretty finicky fabrication, I'm not downplaying that path. Yah, car rims are round, but those wheels have a number of features that would be time consuming to hack out.
In this case, no. Repair is the best method. If it were far worse, yes, new would be best. I would use way better material than a car rim. Probably start with 1" plate and burn out the rings, solid bar for the center. No spokes, just solid plate.
Another great video, is your apprentice still around seemed like a good kid😊
Unfortunately, he quit last week. He probably wanted a little time with friends before shipping out.
Thanks!
Thank you.
Thx for teaching me how to repair things on a budget. Farming has been difficult the last few years too.
Everything has been difficult the last 4 years.
As far as I can tell Josh, your welds are better than most, I'm just learn to mig weld.
I am not familiar with the bearing material but I think I would have inserted the new bearing sleeve after the heating process ???
I'm thinking that the plastic is going to be far less tolerant of conditions close to failure where excessive heat is generated. So it might work well up to that point, perhaps even lasting longer, then fail rapidly when it starts to get hot where the brass or bronze would fail more slowly. That might be ok, but is something that you'd want to keep in mind when you notice a problem and think "I'm going to have to fix that, but it should last through this job"
A really nice repair done exceptionally well. You say the welds don't look pretty...but they look pretty to me! Curious what caused the cracks in the first place. Maybe it slid sideways and hit some really solid like a big honkin' rock? Interesting!
No idea what caused it, but I'd bet it was some kind of hit.
The way you're doing it you're going to get more stress on one side than the other because the one side will shrink before you get to weld the other side and cause it to be pulled to one side. Then when the welds on the other side try to shrink up, it will stress them.
Do you determine the type of material the wheel is made of by the color of the sparks?
Steel sparks, cast iron makes more dust than sparks.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thanks.
Wow, that was cracked real good. Could the part have been saved if it had been cast iron, too?
Absolutely, just a different filler metal and weld process.
Would delrin have been suitable for this application?
Idk, my guess no. Nylatron is what was recommended by the plastics supplier.
Good morning sir question is wheel cast iron or mild steel?
Covered in the video.
Another option is to make or have some new parts made. Would be quite expensive in this case.
I guess since the machine is so old it wouldn't have been cost effective to just machine a new track tensioner or guide wheel what brand of machine is it?
Are you going to clean off all the rust on the wheels before reinstalling them?
And, if so, what method would you use? And are you going to paint them and the drag line itself.
Just curious on what level of restoration you are aiming for . . . . . . .
Paint doesn't pay the bills. This is a mechanical restoration, it needs to function.
Does the nylatron flow under long term static loads like most plastic?
Good question. Not that I have seen. This will be the true test. At the cost of bronze, I wanted to try this out. I can always make new ones in bronze if they don't hold up.
@@TopperMachineLLC Delrin has been pretty good to me, but nothing even close to that kind of pressure. It will indeed be an interesting test once you get the tracks back on it.
Need the Drag Line running by winter!
Do you guys really get that much snow?
Gotta be ready for everything. It will be especially useful for govt inspectors.
@@TopperMachineLLC 🤣🤣
always enjoy your work. Do yourself a favor and incorporate hearing protection into your jobs. You'll be happy you did in 20 years. Ask me how I know....
@@oldadthomas why would he ask? You can't hear him anyway.
Dye Penetrant doesn't find subsurface cracks. Do you have a magnetic particle test kit?
Not yet. Been looking at them. Not enough work in this region to justify the expense.
889 Certanium welding rod. Preheat and post heat.
Hey Josh. Nice to see you back on the old dragline project. Do you need to repair all four of the drive wheels?
Cheers
Be Well
David
At this stage, replacing the other bushings makes sense; the tracks are already off, it'll be easier than having to take the tracks off again.
Was the other side (wheel) cracked too?
Covered in the video.
Your pre heat temperature, was that Celsius or Fahrenheit
I doubt Josh is a celcius guy
99% of Americans use Fahrenheit
Fahrenheit
Here I was thinking you were doing everything perfectly, then you forgot to computer spin balance it! Just wait until you hit 65 mph on that thing now! The vibration's gonna drive you nuts!
What's the state of the other tension wheel? Seems strange that one is cracked with worn out bushings and the other would be perfect?
The other one is fine. I'm guessing someone turned hard into something. Or hit it with another machine.
@@TopperMachineLLC Hmm...maybe the other bushing stayed well lubed and this one didn't. My experience with bushings is they are good until they aren't and then they just get much worse after that. The broken spokes theory makes sense. Too much side loading would have cracked them. How did a quicky grind on the metal tell you it was cast steel instead of cast iron?
@@de-bodgery spark test. Steel sparks, cast iron makes dust
would sandblasting the part before working on it make it easier to see the cracks?
While sandblasting would help the closest sandblasting place is an hour away. Remember, I am in an extremely economically depressed region. There isn't much left here, and more leaving.
@@TopperMachineLLC I see a blast cabinet in the background. Too small to fit the wheel into?
Too small and too slow. It's going away shortly.