I sit and watch you do this type work all day! I had a friend who worked for Greenwood auto parts when they done engine work and loved watching them work!
If I was 30 years younger I'd come work for you for free just so I could learn. Unfortunately I learned to repair office and commercial/industrial equipment. Tolerances there, too, are plus or minus .001 and some adjustments had to be done by feel as there was no way to possibly get any type of gauge in there. That equipment no longer exists and is now all obsolete, just like my skills. I hope your assistants know how blessed they are to learn these skills from a master tech like you. I know from trying to teach some people many years ago that some people just never seemed to grasp the concept of close tolerances. And I've found that true of some machinists too.
When I was 21, I was a E5 USN Submarine Sailor. I was married and had very little extra cash to play with engine mods. My 67 Impala, 327 at 75,000 miles killed a cam and needed to be rebuilt. Damn Quaker State Crap Oil!!! Devastation! So, being mechanically inclined and a DYI guy, I did the engine rebuild my self. Lucky for me, I found a local machine shop in a small town in CT that had a heart and good engine machinating skills. It was Larrys Machine Shop. You remind me of the owner. Knowledgeable, Kind, and SMART! I can not believe all the LS Engine knowledge that you have provide me. THANK YOU! You are the MAN! Bill
IMHO, It was not that good way back in the late 70s early 80s. I agree that its come a long way since then as well as other oils. I didn't like Penns Oil either but, Thats my go to oil now and it great stuff. @@jeffreydurham5342
Machinists are the man behind the curtain. Except in their case the man really is a wizard. Would have never thought a peening hammer would have brought that big cap back out.
That’s near and dear for me, thanks for saving some good iron! Years ago I bought a 454 block, steel crank and rods out of a boat a boat that blew an oil cooler line and was driven with no oil pressure until it locked up near the shore. Seller sold it to me for scrap. The center main was spun so bad it bulged the cap out really bad and was completely black. Since the cape as wasted we snagged another from a scrapped 396 and worked on that thing all weekend. Definitely burned the “midnight oil” line honing that thing to accept some over/under bearing shells. My buddy ground the crank under, .020” mains, .010” mains rods while I squared the block up, zero decked and bored .030”. 20 yrs later still running as a daily driver that sees the 1/8th on some weekends and get the kids to school during the week :)
Wow. Never seen this done before and it gives me a new perspective of what goes into machining these blocks. I can talk to a machinist and imagine what he is trying to picture in my mind and where to go. Thanks for the show!
I was amazed that you could peen the cap out to fill the register. And you held the cap in your hand while you peened it! That is some great old school tech that i never heard of. Great work!
Great video. As a master ASE mechanic who only brought $200,000 worth of machines due to getting screw over. I hope your area realizes how blessed they are to have a REAL MACHINE SHOP close by.
Such meticulous ability and attention to detail still astounds me. You are better than a true machinists. 👍 My dad taught me some things, but i never took up the art. May God rest soul! I was lead in another direction. We will be talking 👄 in the future.
I appreciate how good of a job Andrew does on showing the critical surfaces so we can really see what's really happening. Also, his video editing skills are excellent.
Wow!! Now that's either some old school or secret squirrel machinist knowledge. I would never have thought that would work as well as it did. I wish I had known about your shop in the 90s. You are a rare diamond machine shop and machinist, brother!
Thank you so much for this video. I'm fixing an engine that had spun 4 rods and a main. I got a new forged crankshaft and was planning to reuse my block very ignorantly and the new crank would not spin because the number 1 main that had spun was oblonged causing the bearing to crush the crankshaft journal on the sides and not allow it to spin. I spent a whole 2 minutes peening it like you did but with a ballpeen hammer instead of an air hammer and I can now spin it with one hand. Seriously this video saved me from getting a new block. When I'm done blowing all my money on rebuilding my motor I'll have to send you a tip cause this saved my block.
Many thanks for the content. I don't build my own engines, I leave it to the experts, so I really appreciate this look behind the curtain, as my guys don't have time to show all their customers each build. Thanks to your videos, I can get an understanding of how everything is processed, love it 👍
I will say having the main cap attachment for the 750 cap grinder to index the caps 90° is a huge huge help. Jamison equipment sells them new USA made and a CBN wheel from Martin at performance plus makes cutting the caps soooooo much better! Love the videos man!
Great video !!! You showed so much skill and good judgement to do this precision work properly... Lots of steps and checking of the measurements... The patience and careful procedures really paid off!!! Good job!
I'm sure I'm not alone in saying, "thank you to you and your son for educating!" Time isn't free, especially when you have a shop like yours and the wait time only gets longer. Tatro Machine in San Diego, a Harley builder, primarily an iron only man is exactly like yourself when he builds. The last time I checked his wait time was over two years. So, job security yes, and people will pay to have it done right!
Last time I’ve seen that done is when I had an old fella do an in frame on my V8 Mack. He did everything inframe in my garage. The hone had a cradle that hung from the frame of the truck.
At Pete's machine(when I was a kid working there), Pete had align boring equipment where he could recut, or align cut all those caps. Now Pete would make sure all the oil galleys was clear, open and clean so oil would flow as needed in the engine. We use to use blue Loctite on the crank cap bolts to make sure they stayed where we torqued them. Also Pete had a crank grinding machine- seems there was always a crank in the machine getting reground by Terry back in those days.
This is, "Greek" to me, seeing things done right w/ added wisdom of the years can't be measured to folks like me who don't know but there's an implied trust we give to people doing tasks that they are trained/knowledgeable in. After watching all of these videos I'm feeling like I'm gonna bring my stuff to you when I have the money to get it done. See, I don't have money to do it 2-3 times b/c something's overlooked & I like watching you. I still don't know the basic terminology to explain stuff that I want done but I am learning thru watching. IT's like you have a "school" here.... I'm not here for engine stuff but for what I saw in your handling of another issue whereas you acted like what I'd want in any Man who's word is good? We lack that in today's society or it's in a short supply. peace
Andrew- Hello from Lake Norman NC, where many people are involved with motorsports and engine building. - I appreciate the work you’re doing to showcase Dad’s skills. I just subscribed to your channel so I’m looking forward to seeing more of your work on behalf of your Dad, and learning more about the basics of automotive machining.
During my time in the older way with repairs involved heating and brazing the blocks and caps after we bored the block to create an area for the mass of brass. Hand filing a peening everything until the block was good with blueing. Clip the caps as usual for the boring. At times we would finish hone if we had rough finishing.. Sometimes we'd have to really bore big and make soft steel sleeves and with push rod those in the block and replace the cap. There was always a way to get it right again. Some of it was race stuff and still used when the boys had no choice.
Nice save Daniel. Came out pretty good. Glad to see you using an oil pump on the rear cap. You may tell your viewers why, they may not know. That block had a bad line bore. I can tell by the parting line Big block Chevys are usually bad. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
Thanks for investing your time and knowledge,had a guy a few yrs back fire half his help and the other half quit including his son and he hadn’t done any shop work for yrs just golfing but I had him align bore my 406 and I should have known better but I didn’t even begin to tighten the rear cap when it snapped and the registers were off too.still have it but haven’t fixed or used it yet but this gives me knowledge to go on,thanks
Keep in mind if the block sees enough heat it will occasionally crack, usually in the oil supply passage area. We'll just weld up the side of the cap and recut, or just replace the cap with a donor cap from a scrap block, but it's very interesting to see you can peen the collapse back out of the cap.
I'm sure this is a dumb question but...Wouldn't it make more sense to machine it with the block on the top so the weight of the bar and gravity are cutting the caps more than the block? This way it seems like the block gets more material removed just due to gravity. I get that the idea is that it's cutting both sides so it's splitting the difference but with nothing to guide the bar other than the mains, it seems like just by nature it would cut the block more than the caps. I also get that the machine is using the block as the reference so flipping it around would be very complicated. So maybe it's just for simplicity's sake. One other question is what effect does the shortened distance from the crank center line to the cam and deck have? I get that it's only a few thousandths but that is also what we are removing here.
I don’t see many guys that correct the block issues(unless it’s obvious) Then size up and match the bore in the camshaft. I’m impressed with each video
Thanks to Andrew AND You. I can't say I've ever seen anyone peen the cap like that, alrhough ut makes sense. I've seen and have peened the edges of the registers in the block before, but I wqs literally just going through the motions of What My mentor taught Me, always thinking it was a suspect way of "fixing" the problem.. Thanks for all You share man, good stuff.
👍Good stuff brother. A PRO knows, fosho! I’m an ol industrial refrigeration mechanic forced out due to retinal blindness. Have about 12% left. I sure miss the job. Wife’s 07 Chevy grocery gitter 4.2 can use a rebuild. Affording a new one ain’t happening. Wish I had y’all in my KY town. Paid for sure rides and drives better! Thanks for the videos. Stay safe. 👍🇺🇸
There is a procedure in welding that is called "Friction Welding" that is 2 mating surfaces are turned against each other so they can fuse through heat & pressure. Thats what it reminds me of this situation.
You need to wear gloves to protect yourself from the cutting fluids, as they do cause kidney cancer. As a lifelong machinist, I was diagnosed with kidney cancer in my mid 40's. So consider protecting yourself. It was good to see you checking your bore gauge often. Checking your measuring tools is the most important advice I give to young machinists.
Great Content!! Excellent Work and Wow the patience to get it just right to 1/10 of a thou!! It looked like you have 3 or more hours into this block. At what point do you say, New Block, Or New Caps, and line bore? I can understand if this is a rare block and it would be hard to find a replacement.
You are setting the bore gauge up to the size you want and hone the bores to the size you want. That's why the reading on the gauge got smaller. Right? I know this is probably something everybody else knows but I've never been around this kind of stuff and was just trying to figure it out.
Yeah,That's a win there. I'll take that all day long. We had a run of forged light weight cranks from a well known company I won't name that were cracking near the center main bearing journal and third main journal on a lot of them.(these were 540" Chevy big blocks with 871 s' on them. Merlin blocks and Brodix heads.) 1,500 HP marine application engines. They fixed the problem with the "Brittle" Cranks. I haven't seen one break in quite a long time. And these guys beat on these engines for hours at a time.
Wow, that was quite a procedure, I never knew they had bearing cap grinders. That honing shaft, how heavy is that, that machine is cool. I use to work at a machine shop and did cyl head grinding and seat grinding 40 years ago.
Love the videos to get a perspective on what happens in a machine shop. Very curious where you guys are located if i looked at the right sight you may only be like a little over 3hrs from me which i do not care to travel for quality work as my trusty straight shooting machinist has retired.
One idea that was floated once was spray welding the edge of the cap to take up the excess clearence. Then reinstalling and align honing it all. Not a professional so making no claim as how legit that would turnout. Interested in your thoughts. Just a back note, was relating to a Rover/Buick V8 and they often get loose on the main caps, sometimes just rough installation. Another idea was using a water jet cutter and making a set of new caps to suit. Never went that route but bit of out of the box thinking.
I would love to see the correct way to select a new head gasket once a head has been skimmed and why checking piston protrusion is checked in relationship to selecting a head gasket size,regards Roy
You at least backed your hunch that it could be fixed, many places just don't want to take the risk and use new stuff. Machines make new stuff but it is people who repair stuff and if they didn't none of the older stuff would be left to look at and appreciate where we came from.
OLÁ.. Assisti todo o vídeo. Informo que na década de 1970, como Assistente Técnico de fabricante de bronzinas, a recomendação já era a de eliminar o sistema de "Brunimento" de alojamento de bronzinas de mancais e bielas devido a geração de alteração no "perfil" da bronzina quando com o aperto adequado. O sistema por Vós utilizado gera diversos problemas técnicos, entre eles a alteração na perda de pressão de óleo. Sinceramente eu julgava ser um assunto encerrado a algumas décadas. ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf
I would think doing this would create slack in the timing chain and possibly cause interference between the rods and cam. Maybe not so much with the cam unless your stroked. There's also piston to deck height that I would think will be effected also.
Andrew, the filming is great!
Ty, I will pass that on!
I sit and watch you do this type work all day! I had a friend who worked for Greenwood auto parts when they done engine work and loved watching them work!
If I was 30 years younger I'd come work for you for free just so I could learn. Unfortunately I learned to repair office and commercial/industrial equipment. Tolerances there, too, are plus or minus .001 and some adjustments had to be done by feel as there was no way to possibly get any type of gauge in there. That equipment no longer exists and is now all obsolete, just like my skills. I hope your assistants know how blessed they are to learn these skills from a master tech like you. I know from trying to teach some people many years ago that some people just never seemed to grasp the concept of close tolerances. And I've found that true of some machinists too.
I'm subbed, I love seeing repairs like this. Any shop can replace parts, I like seeing repairs.
Thanks for the sub!
When I was 21, I was a E5 USN Submarine Sailor. I was married and had very little extra cash to play with engine mods. My 67 Impala, 327 at 75,000 miles killed a cam and needed to be rebuilt. Damn Quaker State Crap Oil!!! Devastation! So, being mechanically inclined and a DYI guy, I did the engine rebuild my self. Lucky for me, I found a local machine shop in a small town in CT that had a heart and good engine machinating skills. It was Larrys Machine Shop. You remind me of the owner. Knowledgeable, Kind, and SMART! I can not believe all the LS Engine knowledge that you have provide me. THANK YOU! You are the MAN! Bill
Quaker state is not crap oil, don't put the blame where it doesn't belong.
IMHO, It was not that good way back in the late 70s early 80s. I agree that its come a long way since then as well as other oils. I didn't like Penns Oil either but, Thats my go to oil now and it great stuff. @@jeffreydurham5342
If oil gets an SAE rating how can it be crap?
@@jeffreydurham5342
Temp of oil to make it burn. Didn't Valvoline flunk that test? Somebody published that test in '85 or '85?
Machinists are the man behind the curtain. Except in their case the man really is a wizard. Would have never thought a peening hammer would have brought that big cap back out.
That’s near and dear for me, thanks for saving some good iron! Years ago I bought a 454 block, steel crank and rods out of a boat a boat that blew an oil cooler line and was driven with no oil pressure until it locked up near the shore. Seller sold it to me for scrap. The center main was spun so bad it bulged the cap out really bad and was completely black. Since the cape as wasted we snagged another from a scrapped 396 and worked on that thing all weekend. Definitely burned the “midnight oil” line honing that thing to accept some over/under bearing shells. My buddy ground the crank under, .020” mains, .010” mains rods while I squared the block up, zero decked and bored .030”. 20 yrs later still running as a daily driver that sees the 1/8th on some weekends and get the kids to school during the week :)
Ty for watching!
Wow. Never seen this done before and it gives me a new perspective of what goes into machining these blocks. I can talk to a machinist and imagine what he is trying to picture in my mind and where to go. Thanks for the show!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I did not know it was that important to get those clearances that close. WOW!!!!
Absolutely 💯
Got here by an accident, stayed due to the content! Well done Sir. Cheers from Brazil 🇧🇷.
Welcome!!
I was amazed that you could peen the cap out to fill the register. And you held the cap in your hand while you peened it! That is some great old school tech that i never heard of. Great work!
Tyvm
Great video. As a master ASE mechanic who only brought $200,000 worth of machines due to getting screw over. I hope your area realizes how blessed they are to have a REAL MACHINE SHOP close by.
Ty!! I really appreciate you!
Thanks Andrew for allllllllll you do for your dad
Great work! You have a great family team!
Thanks! It's been a long road, but we're getting there.
Such meticulous ability
and attention to detail still astounds me.
You are better than a true machinists. 👍
My dad taught me some things, but i never took up the art.
May God rest soul!
I was lead in another direction.
We will be talking 👄 in the future.
His soul
I appreciate how good of a job Andrew does on showing the critical surfaces so we can really see what's really happening. Also, his video editing skills are excellent.
Tyvm!
Great video, truly shows how much cast iron can be moved around to repair this cap & block.
Thanks for watching!
Being a Limey my Canadian wife and her parents had a hard time understanding my accent at first. You got me beat by a mile :)
The pinging tool trick is ingenious. I would have never thought that thick metal would have moved that much
Definitely, it's a trip
Wow!! Now that's either some old school or secret squirrel machinist knowledge. I would never have thought that would work as well as it did. I wish I had known about your shop in the 90s.
You are a rare diamond machine shop and machinist, brother!
We appreciate that
That was a class video it takes a lot of knowledge, experience and skill to do a job like this. Keep them coming😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
i really love this guy. he takes time to explain things in an honest way.
This is why I wear a Powell Machine Shop shirt on my off days. People will stop me and ask but most will read it and say hey I watch that guy.
Lol, that's good stuff right there!!
Thank you so much for this video. I'm fixing an engine that had spun 4 rods and a main. I got a new forged crankshaft and was planning to reuse my block very ignorantly and the new crank would not spin because the number 1 main that had spun was oblonged causing the bearing to crush the crankshaft journal on the sides and not allow it to spin. I spent a whole 2 minutes peening it like you did but with a ballpeen hammer instead of an air hammer and I can now spin it with one hand. Seriously this video saved me from getting a new block. When I'm done blowing all my money on rebuilding my motor I'll have to send you a tip cause this saved my block.
Lol, ty
Many thanks for the content. I don't build my own engines, I leave it to the experts, so I really appreciate this look behind the curtain, as my guys don't have time to show all their customers each build. Thanks to your videos, I can get an understanding of how everything is processed, love it 👍
Thanks for watching!
I will say having the main cap attachment for the 750 cap grinder to index the caps 90° is a huge huge help. Jamison equipment sells them new USA made and a CBN wheel from Martin at performance plus makes cutting the caps soooooo much better! Love the videos man!
I have a cbn wheel, it's better but it doesn't do as good as I was lead to believe
@@powellmachineinc hate to hear that, the one I have works amazing, use the white stone to clean it up and continue on
Fairly amazed, the main cap widened up, with penning process, you used. Nice lengthy upload. I enjoyed it, sir! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it
😂
Great video !!! You showed so much skill and good judgement to do this precision work properly... Lots of steps and checking of the measurements... The patience and careful procedures really paid off!!! Good job!
I really like that you showed us how this repair work is done. The video of straightening the cam was really neat too! I wish you were closer..
Thank you
I'm sure I'm not alone in saying, "thank you to you and your son for educating!" Time isn't free, especially when you have a shop like yours and the wait time only gets longer. Tatro Machine in San Diego, a Harley builder, primarily an iron only man is exactly like yourself when he builds. The last time I checked his wait time was over two years. So, job security yes, and people will pay to have it done right!
Yep, I have heard of him, we use to build a lot of big inch harley stuff back in the 2000's
Best engine machining channel I've found.
Thanks, you guys. Really enjoying these.
We really appreciate you!, ty for watching
Have zero experience or knowledge about machining but sure am enjoying observing the work and processes. Thank you.
Great to hear!
Last time I’ve seen that done is when I had an old fella do an in frame on my V8 Mack. He did everything inframe in my garage. The hone had a cradle that hung from the frame of the truck.
Nothing but the best from Daniel as always.
Ty sir!! We appreciate you
At Pete's machine(when I was a kid working there), Pete had align boring equipment where he could recut, or align cut all those caps. Now Pete would make sure all the oil galleys was clear, open and clean so oil would flow as needed in the engine. We use to use blue Loctite on the crank cap bolts to make sure they stayed where we torqued them. Also Pete had a crank grinding machine- seems there was always a crank in the machine getting reground by Terry back in those days.
This is, "Greek" to me, seeing things done right w/ added wisdom of the years can't be measured to folks like me who don't
know but there's an implied trust we give to people doing tasks that they are trained/knowledgeable in. After watching all of
these videos I'm feeling like I'm gonna bring my stuff to you when I have the money to get it done. See, I don't have money
to do it 2-3 times b/c something's overlooked & I like watching you. I still don't know the basic terminology to explain stuff
that I want done but I am learning thru watching. IT's like you have a "school" here.... I'm not here for engine stuff but for
what I saw in your handling of another issue whereas you acted like what I'd want in any Man who's word is good? We lack
that in today's society or it's in a short supply. peace
Andrew- Hello from Lake Norman NC, where many people are involved with motorsports and engine building. - I appreciate the work you’re doing to showcase Dad’s skills. I just subscribed to your channel so I’m looking forward to seeing more of your work on behalf of your Dad, and learning more about the basics of automotive machining.
During my time in the older way with repairs involved heating and brazing the blocks and caps after we bored the block to create an area for the mass of brass. Hand filing a peening everything until the block was good with blueing. Clip the caps as usual for the boring. At times we would finish hone if we had rough finishing.. Sometimes we'd have to really bore big and make soft steel sleeves and with push rod those in the block and replace the cap. There was always a way to get it right again. Some of it was race stuff and still used when the boys had no choice.
That was a big mending process to save the block saddle and main cap. Good thing that customer cut the engine when he did.
Definitely
Never seen a restoration like that...Very Cool !
Ty
Nice repair. I like the way you sneak up on the finish pass, too many guys are too aggressive to try to save time and ruin things. Good video
Right on
Patience never speed
I v done vw since 1963 no more machine shops in our area milton fla do vw dub eng work
Great work. Not sure how I got here but enjoy it. Southern accent is the heaviest I've ever heard but the captioning software is usually right.
Align honing is my favorite thing to do, got a Donovan block to align hone tomorrow
Yeah, it's definitely not my favorite, but it's just another process
Nice save Daniel.
Came out pretty good.
Glad to see you using an oil pump on the rear cap.
You may tell your viewers why, they may not know.
That block had a bad line bore.
I can tell by the parting line
Big block Chevys are usually bad.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Great point!
Yep! Wonder what shop did that. Seen several Shops with a line boring machine and no where near the knowledge and experience to use it.
Experience on display right there. Nice save.
Ty, I appreciate that
Beautiful. Well done!
Greetings from Norway! 🙂
Ty, we appreciate you
Stumbled on you channel. Great video's. Always wanted to know more about machine shop work. Thanks for sharing from Tiffin, Ohio.
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks for investing your time and knowledge,had a guy a few yrs back fire half his help and the other half quit including his son and he hadn’t done any shop work for yrs just golfing but I had him align bore my 406 and I should have known better but I didn’t even begin to tighten the rear cap when it snapped and the registers were off too.still have it but haven’t fixed or used it yet but this gives me knowledge to go on,thanks
Keep in mind if the block sees enough heat it will occasionally crack, usually in the oil supply passage area. We'll just weld up the side of the cap and recut, or just replace the cap with a donor cap from a scrap block, but it's very interesting to see you can peen the collapse back out of the cap.
Great info , being a guy that's done this stuff , great to see info for the public that it's not just my words on how much work this is .
Absolutely!, thank you
those Sunnen gauges are a joy to use
The setting fixture is nice as well.
I'm sure this is a dumb question but...Wouldn't it make more sense to machine it with the block on the top so the weight of the bar and gravity are cutting the caps more than the block? This way it seems like the block gets more material removed just due to gravity. I get that the idea is that it's cutting both sides so it's splitting the difference but with nothing to guide the bar other than the mains, it seems like just by nature it would cut the block more than the caps. I also get that the machine is using the block as the reference so flipping it around would be very complicated. So maybe it's just for simplicity's sake. One other question is what effect does the shortened distance from the crank center line to the cam and deck have? I get that it's only a few thousandths but that is also what we are removing here.
It doesn't work like that, but more info than I'm willing to type
thank you Andrew
Thanks Andrew for your camera work. Your contribution to these videos are invaluable! You're doing a great job. 👏
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! My son has learned a ton from you, so have I! Keep it up
Great to hear!
I appreciate the upload and the knowledge your sharing, first time seeing these tools in action. Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching!
Love watching your videos, you are a straight up bloke
Ty, I try hard
andrew does a good job with that camera awesome video loved it.
I think so too!
Thanks for sharing your skills. Thanks Andrew excellent job filming.
Glad you enjoyed it
I don’t see many guys that correct the block issues(unless it’s obvious) Then size up and match the bore in the camshaft. I’m impressed with each video
Thanks to Andrew AND You. I can't say I've ever seen anyone peen the cap like that, alrhough ut makes sense.
I've seen and have peened the edges of the registers in the block before, but I wqs literally just going through the motions of What My mentor taught Me, always thinking it was a suspect way of "fixing" the problem..
Thanks for all You share man, good stuff.
You're welcome!
Excellent footage and a great example of how to fix... now if I start line bore measuring.. will I get arms like that?? Love the work
Lol, probably not
👍Good stuff brother. A PRO knows, fosho! I’m an ol industrial refrigeration mechanic forced out due to retinal blindness. Have about 12% left. I sure miss the job. Wife’s 07 Chevy grocery gitter 4.2 can use a rebuild. Affording a new one ain’t happening. Wish I had y’all in my KY town. Paid for sure rides and drives better! Thanks for the videos. Stay safe. 👍🇺🇸
Very good
I like the way you was patient enough to do your measuring. And got it where it knew to be good job thank you
Absolutely
There is a procedure in welding that is called "Friction Welding" that is 2 mating surfaces are turned against each other so they can fuse through heat & pressure. Thats what it reminds me of this situation.
Great job man...
Fantastic video
Thanks for the visit
What can be done if it didn't clean up? Make new cap? Keep going larger, use oversized bearings? Trash the block?
Just cut the cap more and hone back to correct size
You need to wear gloves to protect yourself from the cutting fluids, as they do cause kidney cancer. As a lifelong machinist, I was diagnosed with kidney cancer in my mid 40's. So consider protecting yourself.
It was good to see you checking your bore gauge often. Checking your measuring tools is the most important advice I give to young machinists.
The sulfur in the fluid heals cuts. A side benefit is it also attracts hot women.
The best at what he does !!!!
Very interesting. Never heard about that process
Thanks ! Great Job !
Our pleasure!
Awesome job!!!
Thanks!!
Skills.. all the way around !
Enjoyed the video, gents.
Glad you enjoyed it
Very informative video. Not too much work and a block saved, and a lot of money saved as well.
Yes sir!
Great Content!! Excellent Work and Wow the patience to get it just right to 1/10 of a thou!! It looked like you have 3 or more hours into this block. At what point do you say, New Block, Or New Caps, and line bore? I can understand if this is a rare block and it would be hard to find a replacement.
Block had a lot of work previously, so a new block would be alot more money, I think it was about $400.00 to repair this one
@@powellmachineinc Thanks for the info!! Excellent channel, keep you the great work!
You are setting the bore gauge up to the size you want and hone the bores to the size you want. That's why the reading on the gauge got smaller. Right? I know this is probably something everybody else knows but I've never been around this kind of stuff and was just trying to figure it out.
Yeah,That's a win there. I'll take that all day long. We had a run of forged light weight cranks from a well known company I won't name that were cracking near the center main bearing journal and third main journal on a lot of them.(these were 540" Chevy big blocks with 871 s' on them. Merlin blocks and Brodix heads.) 1,500 HP marine application engines. They fixed the problem with the "Brittle" Cranks. I haven't seen one break in quite a long time. And these guys beat on these engines for hours at a time.
Wow, that was quite a procedure, I never knew they had bearing cap grinders. That honing shaft, how heavy is that, that machine is cool. I use to work at a machine shop and did cyl head grinding and seat grinding 40 years ago.
This man adds extra letters in almost every word!
Wow, amazing! Fascinating.
Many thanks!
Thanks andrew
Thank you for watching!!
I take it that South Carolina is still Gods Country.
Catfish from extinct Oakwood mobile would be proud.
Love the videos to get a perspective on what happens in a machine shop. Very curious where you guys are located if i looked at the right sight you may only be like a little over 3hrs from me which i do not care to travel for quality work as my trusty straight shooting machinist has retired.
Amazing how you go the extra mile to do good work.
Thanks for the video!
It's not extra, just our standard process, it's either right or it's not!, thank you!!
Peening. Never thought of it. Used it as a technique in industrial leak repair.
Definitely
One idea that was floated once was spray welding the edge of the cap to take up the excess clearence. Then reinstalling and align honing it all.
Not a professional so making no claim as how legit that would turnout. Interested in your thoughts.
Just a back note, was relating to a Rover/Buick V8 and they often get loose on the main caps, sometimes just rough installation.
Another idea was using a water jet cutter and making a set of new caps to suit. Never went that route but bit of out of the box thinking.
That just makes the problem even worse
@@powellmachineinc Yeah, I just sourced another block, wasn't that keen on being a Guinea pig for experiments.
I would love to see the correct way to select a new head gasket once a head has been skimmed and why checking piston protrusion is checked in relationship to selecting a head gasket size,regards Roy
Will do!
you guys are awesome!
@@davidgough1161 we try hard!
love it!! Learning every time!!! thanks
Glad to hear it!
I had a friend who owned a machine shop that did fork lift car truck and large diesel engines for semi trucks
Andrew does do a great job with the video camara . it always pretty steady and good shots
Good save! That is some really good info, thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
You at least backed your hunch that it could be fixed, many places just don't want to take the risk and use new stuff. Machines make new stuff but it is people who repair stuff and if they didn't none of the older stuff would be left to look at and appreciate where we came from.
Ty! 💯
Good video again.
thanks camera guy
OLÁ.. Assisti todo o vídeo. Informo que na década de 1970, como Assistente Técnico de fabricante de bronzinas, a recomendação já era a de eliminar o sistema de "Brunimento" de alojamento de bronzinas de mancais e bielas devido a geração de alteração no "perfil" da bronzina quando com o aperto adequado. O sistema por Vós utilizado gera diversos problemas técnicos, entre eles a alteração na perda de pressão de óleo. Sinceramente eu julgava ser um assunto encerrado a algumas décadas. ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf
Nonsense,
saving the factory engine and car matching serial numbers. Can it even be done?
Gonna have to remember that timing belt trick, I like. :)
You forgot to mention the "big ol' jug" of patience!
I would think doing this would create slack in the timing chain and possibly cause interference between the rods and cam. Maybe not so much with the cam unless your stroked. There's also piston to deck height that I would think will be effected also.
It doesn't