I have this sled and love it! Here's another way to ensure the top tracks are square: Set it up as shown and once you get to tightening the top tracks, set the bottom plate on it's edge and use a square on the bottom to ensure it's 90 degrees and then tighten.
Nice job with video Jeff. One thing to note early is that your fence has to be at least 3” high for the coping sled guide to work. Some of the other router table makers don’t have fences that high.
Love this tool. I wish I had one for my shop. The only thing would do differently and would probably upgrade when I received the sled would be to change the bolts from slotted screws to Robertson or Torx. Even as a kid, working with my dad in the basement shop at home, I absolutely hated the slotted screws, Far too easy to cam out of the slot and mar the worksurface.
You would think for that money they would have already thought of that. Imagine putting that much effort into the precision of such a tool and then skimping on the bolts.
Just received my sled, cannot wait to use it…excited, but when I opened the first package I found 5 flathead screws but only 4 trac nuts so I put 2 screws on the outside and left the middle open…hopefully I can receive one so I can put it together correctly (I’m sure this will be fine but I’m just weird about having it complete)
Just ordered mine today. I'm going to have some fun. But i sure wish Woodpecker would make Red T tracks. I really would prefer to see those red ones on my home made router table than the blue ones I had to use.
Great show. I have seen you at MANY woodworking shows. Bought a "Tormek" grinder many years ago. Seen you in other places and TV. You have always been one that keeps a "listener" listening. You KNOW your business and that is great. Thank you Jeff Ferris for sharing your knowledge with us. May Jesus bless you and yours always kind Sir.
I have this sled. On my Jessum fence the guide rides right at the edge of one of t slots. Makes for an uncertain ride across the bit. Thinking I will add some washers to raise the guide up a bit. Unless someone recommends a better solution.
I have this jig and will be selling it. I cannot run the cope and stick in the same plane. Both cope and stick should reference to the table top for one setup like my shaper does. Your construction is very well done as I would expect from Woodpeckers but the coping sleds design can be better. I do thank you for your very well detailed explanations of setups which are the best.
I followed your instructions but I think the long bar being assembled wrong.. the long portion is against the fence of the router... So I had to de-assemble and follow the instructions that came with the product... The two sled shown assembled differently!! Otherwise it's a great product and i like it a lot.
HI I watch all of your videos that I can and I am a big fan of Wood peckers products. I do have a question . When you run your cope and stick router bits could you tell me at what RPM you set the router at . Thanks Jeff
6:20 - 'Track and fence have to be parallel to each other'. Nope. If you are using the track, the fence is not in contact with the sled or workpiece- it does not even have to be there! Design flaws with this ($169!) coping sled- Handles- wrong shape and position- the pressure required is downward, palm grips are better. either side of the cut is a more natural position, and gives more control. (I note that in the video you do not use the handles- enough said!) Screw clamps- slow to use- toggle clamps are much faster. Access issues- the cross rails get in the way, you have to feed the workpiece under them. Fence guide- require a high fence that does not have track at that height. Can obscure vision if dusty. Has to be set square to the guide every time it is adjusted (critical). Side support adjustment knobs are hard to access. Because the side sliding piece has the slot on the top, you have to hold the sled, hold the slide in place, and tighten the knob. 3 tasks with 2 hands (watch the video). If the slot is in the base, the move and tighten can be done from the knob alone. I could go on...
One downfall of this sled is if you have a 2 piece fence. I have a G1035 and the fences aren’t EXACTLY coplanar so having a mitre slot would be helpful.
I found it very frustrating that you video taped the assembly piece by piece and then had a different arrangement when you went to use it. You also didn't show how little adjustment there is to the sled with the provided guide. The handles do not have to be out as far as they are, they could have used the inside part of the track instead of the outside part of the track and not have to waste the slotted area provided on the guide.
Couldn’t we just remove the fence, set the depth of cut on the sled and then just use the table track to guide the rail through the bit. You only need a fence if the sled does not have a track rail to guide it straight. That seems so much simpler than a complicated contraption that relies on your manual dexterity to guide the sled freehand across the fence. Something about the design approach here seems to be excessive engineering and incorrect problem solving approach for no real woodworker value. Seems like a good weekend prototype is in order to prove myself wrong.
Bash, the issue is depth of cut. How are you going to control depth of cut in your scenario? By using the fence instead of the track, depth of cut is simply a matter of aligning the fence to the bearing on the cutter. The fence guide on the coping sled then follows the fence.
@@WoodpeckersLLC thanks for that thought but there is an equally simple solution to this problem. It is always relative to the distance between the sled on the track and the bit. That distance never changes. So, transitively, the distance from the sled would produce consistent results. It seems too simple. But I’ll have to prove my theory through my prototype. No matter how well machined the sled is, the results are with respect to the consistent feed position through the bit and the ability to reproduce the cuts. I don’t believe it requires a $300+ product to do this. In fact there was a similar concept built by another TH-cam’r, but his process was also way too complicated. He even stated a known fact that it doesn’t matter what the position of the fence is, as long as the rail does not reach the bearing, just a scoch short of a hair width to the bearing. This is a fixed distance to the track and a sled riding on that track. Enough said. Let’s see if theory holds up in practice. I may not get to it this weekend - family commitments. But definitely on my to do list - top of it.
Come on man?!? You take us step-by-step through the assembly, right? Then, when you get to 5:40 in the video, you do switch-a-roo and start using a sled that was NOT assembled using the step-by-step method you just led us through for over 5 minutes? That makes no sense. I had to disassemble and then re-assemble. Apparently so did several other people who viewed this video. And nowhere in the video do you alert us that you switched sleds? Very frustrating man. Pretty silly too!
It’s most likely not back ordered, they make all of their products on site, so there is often a waiting period if certain items go out of stock while they manufacture the next batch. In fact even during this time with mass shortages everywhere Woodpeckers has consistently kept all their products in stock often bringing a lot of the items back up for sale weeks to months earlier than their projections. As far as being expensive, I would say this is one of the rare exceptions where a company actually offers a product that’s worth every penny. I promise you won’t be disappointed if you decide to pick something up, top of the line stuff. I would recommend either an eight inch pocket t-square or their saw gauge 2.0 as a first product.
![[Gifted] A Router Table Coping Sled With A Couple Of Great Features!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2JTUVt8ipY8/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice job, Jeff. Very clear and informative presentation.
I have this sled and love it! Here's another way to ensure the top tracks are square: Set it up as shown and once you get to tightening the top tracks, set the bottom plate on it's edge and use a square on the bottom to ensure it's 90 degrees and then tighten.
Phill Earnshaw that is what this guy could have done to make it easier.or It could have been pushed up to the fence to square up the bottom.
So you don't mind having to readjust the height of the router bit between cope and stick?
Does anyone notice Jeff was assembling the sled to use for a left fence router? The display next to his assembled sled is for the right fence sled.
Yes I totally agree... I had to de-assemble mine after following his instructions and follow the hardcopy instructions that came with product.
Nice job with video Jeff. One thing to note early is that your fence has to be at least 3” high for the coping sled guide to work. Some of the other router table makers don’t have fences that high.
Love this tool. I wish I had one for my shop. The only thing would do differently and would probably upgrade when I received the sled would be to change the bolts from slotted screws to Robertson or Torx. Even as a kid, working with my dad in the basement shop at home, I absolutely hated the slotted screws, Far too easy to cam out of the slot and mar the worksurface.
You would think for that money they would have already thought of that. Imagine putting that much effort into the precision of such a tool and then skimping on the bolts.
Nice sled and presentation. But as for the chicken or the egg question, it is really a question of creation vs evolution
Really enjoy how all that works together. Thanks for another top quality vid.
i am new to this woodpecker program it is great thank you
Nice job, looks like it works great. Thanks!
Liked the video! Was thinking of building a coping sled, but now think I'll go with the "Big Red".
Just received my sled, cannot wait to use it…excited, but when I opened the first package I found 5 flathead screws but only 4 trac nuts so I put 2 screws on the outside and left the middle open…hopefully I can receive one so I can put it together correctly (I’m sure this will be fine but I’m just weird about having it complete)
Just got mine for Christmas from my wife :)
Great sled, but I am wandering how do I set this up for tenons with a 50mm straight routerbit ?
Just ordered mine today. I'm going to have some fun. But i sure wish Woodpecker would make Red T tracks. I really would prefer to see those red ones on my home made router table than the blue ones I had to use.
Great video. I really enjoyed watching it and learned something too.
I really do like the sled, but would like toggle clamps instead of the screw clamps for hold downs.
I agree
Agreed. I mounted a toggle clamp using the back track works pretty well. If you use two, also can hold backing board in place between different rails.
Amen. Too much screwing around - pun intended.
Great show. I have seen you at MANY woodworking shows. Bought a "Tormek" grinder many years ago. Seen you in other places and TV. You have always been one that keeps a "listener" listening. You KNOW your business and that is great. Thank you Jeff Ferris for sharing your knowledge with us. May Jesus bless you and yours always kind Sir.
Thank you, Pat. You've got quite a memory...my road show days were quite some time ago!
I have this sled. On my Jessum fence the guide rides right at the edge of one of t slots. Makes for an uncertain ride across the bit. Thinking I will add some washers to raise the guide up a bit. Unless someone recommends a better solution.
Thank you Jeff , may have to get one .
I have this jig and will be selling it. I cannot run the cope and stick in the same plane. Both cope and stick should reference to the table top for one setup like my shaper does. Your construction is very well done as I would expect from Woodpeckers but the coping sleds design can be better. I do thank you for your very well detailed explanations of setups which are the best.
I followed your instructions but I think the long bar being assembled wrong.. the long portion is against the fence of the router... So I had to de-assemble and follow the instructions that came with the product... The two sled shown assembled differently!! Otherwise it's a great product and i like it a lot.
Very helpful. Thanx!
Is there a way for using it at 45 degrees?
Great video, yep I got it all 👍
HI I watch all of your videos that I can and I am a big fan of Wood peckers products. I do have a question . When you run your cope and stick router bits could you tell me at what RPM you set the router at .
Thanks Jeff
Cope & stick cutters at maximum speed, raised panel cutters at minimum. Little bits -- High speed. Big bits -- Slow speed.
I want a sled can you make arch cuts.
Hello from Mexico city good tools
Newbie question but what are the products at 13:27 that assist in holding the wood down and against the fence while being pushed through?
Those are our Variable Pressure Featherboards: www.woodpeck.com/variable-pressure-featherboard-pair.html
Another great vid.
Definitely priced right! But man watching your videos is like watching jewellery from outside the store 😟😭
Like the guy!
Can I use this coping sled with a Bosch table?
Yes, it can. Works with any table.
Interesante..🇵🇪
6:20 - 'Track and fence have to be parallel to each other'. Nope. If you are using the track, the fence is not in contact with the sled or workpiece- it does not even have to be there!
Design flaws with this ($169!) coping sled-
Handles- wrong shape and position- the pressure required is downward, palm grips are better. either side of the cut is a more natural position, and gives more control. (I note that in the video you do not use the handles- enough said!)
Screw clamps- slow to use- toggle clamps are much faster.
Access issues- the cross rails get in the way, you have to feed the workpiece under them.
Fence guide- require a high fence that does not have track at that height. Can obscure vision if dusty. Has to be set square to the guide every time it is adjusted (critical).
Side support adjustment knobs are hard to access.
Because the side sliding piece has the slot on the top, you have to hold the sled, hold the slide in place, and tighten the knob. 3 tasks with 2 hands (watch the video). If the slot is in the base, the move and tighten can be done from the knob alone.
I could go on...
Nice!
One downfall of this sled is if you have a 2 piece fence. I have a G1035 and the fences aren’t EXACTLY coplanar so having a mitre slot would be helpful.
I found it very frustrating that you video taped the assembly piece by piece and then had a different arrangement when you went to use it. You also didn't show how little adjustment there is to the sled with the provided guide. The handles do not have to be out as far as they are, they could have used the inside part of the track instead of the outside part of the track and not have to waste the slotted area provided on the guide.
Dusty Rhodes is that you?
Couldn’t we just remove the fence, set the depth of cut on the sled and then just use the table track to guide the rail through the bit. You only need a fence if the sled does not have a track rail to guide it straight. That seems so much simpler than a complicated contraption that relies on your manual dexterity to guide the sled freehand across the fence. Something about the design approach here seems to be excessive engineering and incorrect problem solving approach for no real woodworker value. Seems like a good weekend prototype is in order to prove myself wrong.
Bash, the issue is depth of cut. How are you going to control depth of cut in your scenario? By using the fence instead of the track, depth of cut is simply a matter of aligning the fence to the bearing on the cutter. The fence guide on the coping sled then follows the fence.
@@WoodpeckersLLC thanks for that thought but there is an equally simple solution to this problem. It is always relative to the distance between the sled on the track and the bit. That distance never changes. So, transitively, the distance from the sled would produce consistent results. It seems too simple. But I’ll have to prove my theory through my prototype. No matter how well machined the sled is, the results are with respect to the consistent feed position through the bit and the ability to reproduce the cuts. I don’t believe it requires a $300+ product to do this. In fact there was a similar concept built by another TH-cam’r, but his process was also way too complicated. He even stated a known fact that it doesn’t matter what the position of the fence is, as long as the rail does not reach the bearing, just a scoch short of a hair width to the bearing. This is a fixed distance to the track and a sled riding on that track. Enough said. Let’s see if theory holds up in practice. I may not get to it this weekend - family commitments. But definitely on my to do list - top of it.
Come on man?!?
You take us step-by-step through the assembly, right?
Then, when you get to 5:40 in the video, you do switch-a-roo and start using a sled that was NOT assembled using the step-by-step method you just led us through for over 5 minutes?
That makes no sense.
I had to disassemble and then re-assemble. Apparently so did several other people who viewed this video.
And nowhere in the video do you alert us that you switched sleds?
Very frustrating man. Pretty silly too!
its good stuff, but for the price you would think you wouldnt have to assemble anything
Wood working is about Assembly.
Assembly is fun and by flattening the package they can save a bit on shipping which helps the customer in the end.
Try and buy something from woodpecker. Back ordered and expensive
It’s most likely not back ordered, they make all of their products on site, so there is often a waiting period if certain items go out of stock while they manufacture the next batch. In fact even during this time with mass shortages everywhere Woodpeckers has consistently kept all their products in stock often bringing a lot of the items back up for sale weeks to months earlier than their projections. As far as being expensive, I would say this is one of the rare exceptions where a company actually offers a product that’s worth every penny. I promise you won’t be disappointed if you decide to pick something up, top of the line stuff. I would recommend either an eight inch pocket t-square or their saw gauge 2.0 as a first product.