There’s something about Jeff’s presentation and demonstration that immediately instills confidence that I’m getting reliable guidance. Sort of like watching Norm Abrams on the New Yankee Workshop, you just know this is an experienced craftsman!
This is awesome. I’m just starting to get interested in woodworking and couldn’t logically work out how you could use a router as a jointer (because I don’t know the tools yet). You literally explained in seconds something that no one else has.
This is an outstanding video of how to use a router table; to joint the edge of wood. And very few instructors could present it as well as Jeff Farris does it. I would cast him and Rich Hummel to be among the best of all; when it comes to learning "how" it works.
Your 1950's Craftsman 6" jointer with adjustable twin column base looks identical to the one I recently bought from a retired woodworker. Mine is currently disassembled for cleaning and repainting. I have used washers to offset one side of my router fence to joint board edges.
Awesome! Was just thinking about this and if anyone did this and here it is! There's always another way to get something done with the tool you may already have.
Jeff is one of the best demonstrators around. More than 10 years ago, he was a demonstrator for the Tormek sharpening system at The Woodworking Shows and one of the reasons I bought that system with no regrets. This video shows his knowledge and is already in my saved files. Thanks, Jeff.
Ron, the Offset Modules are basically that. They don't have screw adjustment, but they have a vee-block and pin arrangement that insures they move perfectly parallel.
Good video, Jeff. Thanks. I've been working to perfect this technique with my own router table. Your video helped. One request, please describe more specifically the bit you were using. Thank you.
thanks for a great video. i'm new to the table router world. if i was doing this with larger pieces of barn wood planed down on both sides maybe 2" thick, what would be the best way to join them together in making a counter? do i need some sort of biscuit joiner or can i just glue and use a pocket hole jig and screws? thanks for any thoughts. owen
You can simplify the setup of the outfeed fence by using a flush-trim bit. Set the fence in line with the bearing and you won't have to trial and error on finding top dead center of the router bit.
True, but with a couple caveats. You will need to raise (or lower) the bit before joining the board. The spiral bit Jeff suggested does not have a high and low area. Some portion of the spiral cutting edge is always exactly forward.
@@terryt2910 not so. The bearing is used only for setting the outfeed table. I raise it all the way exposing a 2 inch cutting edge. A straight edge on the outfeed table kisses the bearing and setup is complete. The bearing does not interfere with the cut. it is a quick way to find top dead center of the router bit. In this video he has to reset if he gets snipe. I do understand that the spiral cutter should always have an edge that can be used for alignment but he missed it.
@@newgurus a good quality bit would be the Whiteside 2505. It is a three flute with 1/2" cutting diameter and a 2" cutting length. Any 1/2" flush trim with at least 1 1/2" cutting length will be good. Examples of some other brands would be Freud, Infinity, Rockler, CMT to name a few. Also, there flush-trim spiral bits (down cut, upcut, and compression) available.
I have a woodpecker fence and micro adjuster. It didn’t come with the rods shown. The fence is excellent, but not quite as easy as shown. When securing the hold down screws, the the alignment of the fences change making alignment of the two fences with an offset difficult. This is still the best fence out there, but it needs more engineering to be the best one to suffice as a router.
Are longer lengths of the split fence extrusion available? If so, substituting a longer one for the infeed half of this common shaper-type jointing setup can greatly increase the ease and accuracy with which this setup can be used to straighten longer workpieces, as opposed to simply cleaning up a tricky-grained edge. Alternatively, if the offset components allow a large enough offset between halves of the fence, a long dead flat auxiliary subfence mounted to the face of the stock infeed fence could be used to achieve the same straightening function. (The fact that length of the infeed table determines the straightening while the outfeed table only provides support is why molders have such a long infeed tables and minimal outfeed.)
@@WoodpeckersLLC 48" infeed would give the router table edge-straightening capability comparable to typical 12" jointer with 8' bed. Horizontal work piece orientation takes gravity out of the straightening equation: a reasonably well aligned roller stand on the outfeed side can provide adequate support, without any slight misalignment affecting the straightness of the jointed edge. Quality and straightness of Woodpecker Super Track is key for the extended infeed method to work.
I have the Kreg Precision Router Table. It came with 2 rods to offset the outfeed side. I have used it several times and love it. I do need to get spiral cut bits. I saw that you were using a downcut bit. Which would you recommend?
Then to square up a board, would it be best to plane the board first? So that the wide face is flat for running across the router table? Or does it matter?
Did you use an up spiral or down spiral? I ended up getting a 1/4” Diablo 1” long UP spiral bit and it might be too small to be taking off 1/8” material at a time. Can’t find or think of anything thinner to use though besides this underlayment I have…
You talking about smaller material to shim out the outfeed fence? Try stacks of playing cards. They're about .011" each and very consistent. Stack them up to make exactly the distance you want.
Jerry, the one I was using in the video isn't the best choice. It's actually a metal cutting end mill. 20 years ago, when I bought it, solid carbide spiral router bits weren't a thing and a bunch of us started using end mills for their clean cut. Now, the tooling manufacturers have caught up and the edge geometry has been optimized for cutting wood. Look at the ones on our web site from Whiteside and Amana. The funky colored coated ones from Amana are amazing...expensive, but amazing.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for the reply. I love the Whiteside router bits. Any particular model? Upcut or downcut? It all gets a bit confusing - and expensive if you pick the wrong one!
I hate to say anything bad about this great video. Love the extra support for the piece but the board was fed in two different directions. I would definitely go this rout if the piece was not stable. Planer started at the knot on the end and router was opposite. One against the grain and one with the grain.
Frank, I would have fed them the same direction if I had paid attention. But as crazy as the grain is in that piece, there's no "with the grain" direction. The thing that makes it so much cleaner on the router table is the spiral cutter.
Good video but setup was done on your router table with two offset modules which is the most uncommon configuration and not the default for any higher end router table. Will keep looking for a setup video that covers what most people have.
Thanks Jeff, really nice video. I have the Super Fence that I bought a few years ago at a show, but I don't recall receiving those two spacer pins. I could probably use two spacer blocks instead. What's the diameter of the two pins. Just placed an order for the spiral bit. I plan on getting the phenolic table top in the future and was wondering does it come with a router plate and if so is it predrilled?
Rich, the spacers are inside your Offset Module. No reason to take it apart to use them...just about anything will work. However, if you have a Woodpeckers Coping Sled, a pair of the same pins comes with that and they're not used after assembly...so they may be in your spare parts drawer. Anything that you have two of that are the same size (to a reasonable tolerance) will work. Any dimension from 1/8" to 3/8" will work. The point is to get the outfeed fence moved away from the base so the adjustment of the infeed fence has somewhere to work.
Welcome. Missed your last point about the phenolic table. It doesn't come with a plate, because we don't know whether you want a plate or a lift. The tables are fully machined for a standard 9-1/4 x 11-3/4 plate.
Can you provide any additional details about what to look for when choosing a bit for this use case? I am looking at bits with a 2in cutting length in case I want to use this for thicker stock. Does it matter if it’s an up cut or down cut bit in this scenario? Is a double or triple flute better in this use case?
You'll want an up cut bit so it cuts toward the table top; the bottom of the board will be supported by the table. An alternative choice for the truly paranoid would be a compression bit. The number of flutes just decreases the amount cut by each flute, so the more flutes the better it will be for tear out (e.g. less), however, you'll need to slow your feed rate to give the small gullets time to evacuate the wood chips.
Robert pretty much covered it. up-cut is the best choice. Spiral flute is a must. Triple flute will last longer and theoretically cut smoother, but cost more to begin with.
www.woodpeck.com/whiteside-standard-spiral-upcut-bits.html First one on the page. 1/2" diameter, 2" cut length. It's not gold colored, like the one in the video, but that is just a TiN coating. It's kind of a gimmick, and I wouldn't pay for it again if I didn't already own it.
So how do you adjust the router to be perpendicular to the plate? I have the PRL-V2 router lift but when I check up a router bit it is not quite 90° to the plate.
Jacob, contact customer service. Your router bit should be perfectly vertical to the lift. Something...possibly the blocks around the router...isn't installed correctly. One of the folks in customer service can help you troubleshoot it.
Reset the router in the router lift and make sure the router bit is squared to the plate. Then re-install the router and plate and make sure the router bit is square to the router table. If it is not square, adjust the leveling screws to make sure it is at 90 degrees in all directions.
Doesn't need to be perpendicular to the plate. All the matters is the position with respect to the cutter:) If it were a linear motion cutter (like a tablesaw blade), then you'd need to worry about fence alignment and not just fence position.
Jeff, I want to pull the trigger on the Super Fence with the Micro Adjust, but I'm looking to see if it will or can be adapted to a Sawstop cast iron router table that is integrated into my table saw. Do you know if I it can work on it? P.S. I think that jointer is older than both of us. 🤣
The holes in the base of the fence won't line up with the slots in your table, but all you'll have to do is drill a couple holes in the (aluminum...drills easy) base extrusion. Edited to Add: You're right. The born on date on my jointer is 1950. Mine was about 7 years later.
@@WoodpeckersLLC My date would be 9 years later, fortunately, we're all three still kicking! Yes, I see how the Super Fence can be drilled to fit, but you think the Micro Adjust can be too? That looks a bit differernt. I'm thinking I might have to adapt a couple of Magswitchs to attach it to the table top being there isn't a T-track on mine for it. I was hoping some one else may have addressed this before. May just have to jump in and see.
Simpler solution would be to buy a piece of our DP track that is long enough to reach across the tracks in your router table. Just looking and guessing, I think a 24" will reach. If not, get a 36" and cut it down. Then you can use it exactly as designed. It won't be red, but it will work perfectly.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Ah-ha, I get it now, Duh... Well I just placed the order today for the squares you recommened for me on 2/5, "I would get the 2616 in aluminum and the 1812 in stainless steel". When the wife is distracted, and maybe just after Valentines day, I'll sneak this order in. 😜 And then, the Rip-Flip, then the DP Pro, then.... does it ever stop 🤦♂️
Wouldn't it be easier if the bit had a bottom bearing? It would be pretty easy to line up the outfeed side of fence with a straight edge against the bearing. Then just lower the router, so the bearing is below the top of the table. Then move the infeed back to desired depth of cut.
Setting to a bearing would certainly work, though I would imagine a tweak or two will still be needed to get the cut perfectly in line with the outfeed. Solid carbide spirals are a bit more economical than piloted brazed spirals.
@@terryt2910 Ah good point, I could use a spiral bit w/ a bearing. I use those for template cutting. But I understand some repositioning will probably be required to avoid any snipe. Thanx for reply. I didn't think about cutting surface and location.
This technique is especially useful when you have to edge joint small pieces that are not safe to edge on a jointer. Also to refine an edge on a board at glue-up time.
Really an unfair comparison. Whereas I do not disagree with using the router as a jointer you should use a helix cutter in the real jointer as you did in the router. Your type of comparison is fake IMHO.
You're right that a $400 replacement helical cutterhead would improve the cut of the jointer. The point is, a $60 router bit in a router table you likely already have gets the job done today.
So, I didn't realize how often I did that until you mentioned it. The bad habit I hear in my own playback is "Immanna" when I mean "I am going to". I'll start watching the "So's". Ya know?
Come on man get real if the jointer had spiral cutters it would leave as good a finish as the router.Cut out fudging just compare apples with apples this was a pathetic example.
So, you're saying it's smarter to spend a thousand dollars (or more) to upgrade an existing jointer that you already have than to walk over to your router table and use a proven technique? Not everyone has a jointer with a spiral head, in fact I would bet my next paycheck that straight blade jointers outnumber spiral jointers in use by a huge percentage.
@@WoodpeckersLLC no I'm saying that you did not compare apples with apples. your jointer had single blades and your router bit was a spiral so your example of using both options was not fair in any shape or form.
The goal was not to compare a jointer to a router table or to compare straight blades to spiral blades. The goal was to show that if you don't have a spiral head jointer you can get similar results with a simple technique and a $20-$30 router bit.
@@WoodpeckersLLC OK, but what is the cost of that router table setup you're using, as shown? Using cost savings as a benefit when talking about Woodpecker products is kind of ironic.
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You’re the grandpa I never had, thankyou for the wisdom sir.
There’s something about Jeff’s presentation and demonstration that immediately instills confidence that I’m getting reliable guidance. Sort of like watching Norm Abrams on the New Yankee Workshop, you just know this is an experienced craftsman!
Jeff was actually a guest on The New Yankee Workshop years ago. He was giving Norm a demonstration on tool sharpening techniques.
This is awesome. I’m just starting to get interested in woodworking and couldn’t logically work out how you could use a router as a jointer (because I don’t know the tools yet). You literally explained in seconds something that no one else has.
More videos like this please. Extremely helpful.
This is an outstanding video of how to use a router table; to joint the edge of wood.
And very few instructors could present it as well as Jeff Farris does it. I would cast him and Rich Hummel to be among the best of all; when it comes to learning "how" it works.
Your 1950's Craftsman 6" jointer with adjustable twin column base looks identical to the one I recently bought from a retired woodworker. Mine is currently disassembled for cleaning and repainting. I have used washers to offset one side of my router fence to joint board edges.
Thanks for this video. It may have said S4S but still needed to be jointed and this was great to use my Woodepeckers router to get it done correctly.
Awesome! Was just thinking about this and if anyone did this and here it is! There's always another way to get something done with the tool you may already have.
Jeff is one of the best demonstrators around. More than 10 years ago, he was a demonstrator for the Tormek sharpening system at The Woodworking Shows and one of the reasons I bought that system with no regrets. This video shows his knowledge and is already in my saved files. Thanks, Jeff.
Appreciate the comment. Lou.
Hey Jeff, look forward to seeing more how-to videos. Learning new ways to use existing tools is great.
Perfect Instructions, thank you. I cant afford a jointer. but seeing this video im happy to just use my table router.
Hi Jeff, I use a 6mm domino behind the in fence and a 8mm domino behind the out feed. Works for me
Clever!
This video convinced me to get one. Thank you.
A good video and tip. I think a separate adjuster for each side of the fence as well as the main fence adjuster might be an interesting setup.
Ron, the Offset Modules are basically that. They don't have screw adjustment, but they have a vee-block and pin arrangement that insures they move perfectly parallel.
I like the idea of adding the offset adjustment to both in and out feed sides of the fence.
Thank you, it was very helpful
Extremely excellent. Am a woodworker got to invest in that system
That looks like a good idea but i can't do it like that with my home made router table fence. I'd need to use thin stock on the out feed side.
Nicely explained with video evidence.
Good video, Jeff. Thanks. I've been working to perfect this technique with my own router table. Your video helped.
One request, please describe more specifically the bit you were using.
Thank you.
Up-cut solid carbide spiral straight bit. 1/2" diameter 1-1/2 cutting length.
Very helpful, thank a lot. greetings from Germany
Just a super excellent video. I am new at this and I learned a lot.
Hi Jeff loved your video. Tell me can the Woodpeckers router table fence fit other brands of tables ?
Yes. You may need to drill a couple holes if the track spacing is different on the other brand table, but that's it.
thanks for a great video. i'm new to the table router world. if i was doing this with larger pieces of barn wood planed down on both sides maybe 2" thick, what would be the best way to join them together in making a counter? do i need some sort of biscuit joiner or can i just glue and use a pocket hole jig and screws? thanks for any thoughts. owen
You can simplify the setup of the outfeed fence by using a flush-trim bit. Set the fence in line with the bearing and you won't have to trial and error on finding top dead center of the router bit.
Indeed!
True, but with a couple caveats.
You will need to raise (or lower) the bit before joining the board.
The spiral bit Jeff suggested does not have a high and low area. Some portion of the spiral cutting edge is always exactly forward.
@@terryt2910 not so. The bearing is used only for setting the outfeed table. I raise it all the way exposing a 2 inch cutting edge. A straight edge on the outfeed table kisses the bearing and setup is complete. The bearing does not interfere with the cut. it is a quick way to find top dead center of the router bit. In this video he has to reset if he gets snipe. I do understand that the spiral cutter should always have an edge that can be used for alignment but he missed it.
@@joejtrip Joseph what bit do you recommend for this usage on the router table cost is no object?
@@newgurus a good quality bit would be the Whiteside 2505. It is a three flute with 1/2" cutting diameter and a 2" cutting length. Any 1/2" flush trim with at least 1 1/2" cutting length will be good. Examples of some other brands would be Freud, Infinity, Rockler, CMT to name a few.
Also, there flush-trim spiral bits (down cut, upcut, and compression) available.
thank you sir
Fantastic very nice thanks for the video’s
I have a woodpecker fence and micro adjuster. It didn’t come with the rods shown. The fence is excellent, but not quite as easy as shown. When securing the hold down screws, the the alignment of the fences change making alignment of the two fences with an offset difficult. This is still the best fence out there, but it needs more engineering to be the best one to suffice as a router.
Contact Customer Service. Those rods are the key to alignment.
Great video, good explanation!
Great instruction.. thank you…..
I'll be using this idea when I make my doors raised panel glue ups.
Really liking that table
Are longer lengths of the split fence extrusion available? If so, substituting a longer one for the infeed half of this common shaper-type jointing setup can greatly increase the ease and accuracy with which this setup can be used to straighten longer workpieces, as opposed to simply cleaning up a tricky-grained edge. Alternatively, if the offset components allow a large enough offset between halves of the fence, a long dead flat auxiliary subfence mounted to the face of the stock infeed fence could be used to achieve the same straightening function. (The fact that length of the infeed table determines the straightening while the outfeed table only provides support is why molders have such a long infeed tables and minimal outfeed.)
Michael, we sell 36" and 48" sections of our Super Track (the fence extrusion).
@@WoodpeckersLLC 48" infeed would give the router table edge-straightening capability comparable to typical 12" jointer with 8' bed. Horizontal work piece orientation takes gravity out of the straightening equation: a reasonably well aligned roller stand on the outfeed side can provide adequate support, without any slight misalignment affecting the straightness of the jointed edge. Quality and straightness of Woodpecker Super Track is key for the extended infeed method to work.
@@WoodpeckersLLC BTW, what is the maximum offset between halves of the split fence setup shown in the video?
great video and good introstructions
hello from colonia Pensil, alcaldia Miguel Hidalgo CDMX
I have the Kreg Precision Router Table. It came with 2 rods to offset the outfeed side. I have used it several times and love it. I do need to get spiral cut bits. I saw that you were using a downcut bit. Which would you recommend?
For jointing, either upcut or downcut will work. For typical woodworking, I find upcut more versatile.
Excellent from S. Calif.
Any reason you can't also use this technique to plane a small (1x or so) board on it's face?
Whatever cut length you have, that's how wide this would work. Personally, I wouldn't push it past 2"
Then to square up a board, would it be best to plane the board first? So that the wide face is flat for running across the router table? Or does it matter?
Yes, it would be best to have the face flat.
Who manufactures those clamps you used at the end of your video?
Those are Bora parallel jaw clamps.
Yes, you can use the router for the thin side of the wood, but how about for the broader side?
Did you use an up spiral or down spiral? I ended up getting a 1/4” Diablo 1” long UP spiral bit and it might be too small to be taking off 1/8” material at a time. Can’t find or think of anything thinner to use though besides this underlayment I have…
Im trying to joint 3/4” material btw
You talking about smaller material to shim out the outfeed fence? Try stacks of playing cards. They're about .011" each and very consistent. Stack them up to make exactly the distance you want.
Very nice video - will still take some practice to get it setup right. Just curious, what brand of cutter are you using?
Jerry, the one I was using in the video isn't the best choice. It's actually a metal cutting end mill. 20 years ago, when I bought it, solid carbide spiral router bits weren't a thing and a bunch of us started using end mills for their clean cut. Now, the tooling manufacturers have caught up and the edge geometry has been optimized for cutting wood. Look at the ones on our web site from Whiteside and Amana. The funky colored coated ones from Amana are amazing...expensive, but amazing.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thanks for the reply. I love the Whiteside router bits. Any particular model? Upcut or downcut? It all gets a bit confusing - and expensive if you pick the wrong one!
@@jerryjerome6709 Up-cut is best for this application.
I hate to say anything bad about this great video. Love the extra support for the piece but the board was fed in two different directions. I would definitely go this rout if the piece was not stable. Planer started at the knot on the end and router was opposite. One against the grain and one with the grain.
Frank, I would have fed them the same direction if I had paid attention. But as crazy as the grain is in that piece, there's no "with the grain" direction. The thing that makes it so much cleaner on the router table is the spiral cutter.
Maple wood is VERY difficult to get around "cut outs", no matter how you feed it.
hello from México
My jointer is a track saw.
Sure, you can do joining on a tablesaw, too, but not with the same cleaness of cut not the same fine adjustment.
Good video but setup was done on your router table with two offset modules which is the most uncommon configuration and not the default for any higher end router table. Will keep looking for a setup video that covers what most people have.
Thanks Jeff, really nice video. I have the Super Fence that I bought a few years ago at a show, but I don't recall receiving those two spacer pins. I could probably use two spacer blocks instead. What's the diameter of the two pins. Just placed an order for the spiral bit. I plan on getting the phenolic table top in the future and was wondering does it come with a router plate and if so is it predrilled?
Rich, the spacers are inside your Offset Module. No reason to take it apart to use them...just about anything will work. However, if you have a Woodpeckers Coping Sled, a pair of the same pins comes with that and they're not used after assembly...so they may be in your spare parts drawer. Anything that you have two of that are the same size (to a reasonable tolerance) will work. Any dimension from 1/8" to 3/8" will work. The point is to get the outfeed fence moved away from the base so the adjustment of the infeed fence has somewhere to work.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Great, thanks for the quick response.
Welcome. Missed your last point about the phenolic table. It doesn't come with a plate, because we don't know whether you want a plate or a lift. The tables are fully machined for a standard 9-1/4 x 11-3/4 plate.
Can you provide any additional details about what to look for when choosing a bit for this use case? I am looking at bits with a 2in cutting length in case I want to use this for thicker stock. Does it matter if it’s an up cut or down cut bit in this scenario? Is a double or triple flute better in this use case?
You'll want an up cut bit so it cuts toward the table top; the bottom of the board will be supported by the table. An alternative choice for the truly paranoid would be a compression bit. The number of flutes just decreases the amount cut by each flute, so the more flutes the better it will be for tear out (e.g. less), however, you'll need to slow your feed rate to give the small gullets time to evacuate the wood chips.
@@RobertBarth1 Thank you!
Robert pretty much covered it. up-cut is the best choice. Spiral flute is a must. Triple flute will last longer and theoretically cut smoother, but cost more to begin with.
nice setup. can you please add link where to buy sprial cutter?
We have them at woodpeck.com. My favorites are Whiteside or Amana, but they'll all work.
@@WoodpeckersLLC I can't find under router bit. please give a link to that bit.
www.woodpeck.com/whiteside-standard-spiral-upcut-bits.html First one on the page. 1/2" diameter, 2" cut length. It's not gold colored, like the one in the video, but that is just a TiN coating. It's kind of a gimmick, and I wouldn't pay for it again if I didn't already own it.
What’s the purpose of putting the two pins in between the fence and blade on the outfeed side?
To offset the fence perfectly parallel.
Would this idea work with cheaper router tables
As long as you have an accurate way to offset the infeed table from the outfeed table and maintain their parallel alignment.
what happens when you need to joint a wider surface?
you can’t use a long spiral bit.
Why cant you just use a longer bit?
great vid. more will subscribe if you dont mention it. u guys know that right? i want the 1281 billet square that u guys made in 2013. bring it back.
Are you using a spiral upcut or downcut bit?
For this operation, it doesn't matter a lot. I use up-cut more, so that's what I used.
So how do you adjust the router to be perpendicular to the plate? I have the PRL-V2 router lift but when I check up a router bit it is not quite 90° to the plate.
Jacob, contact customer service. Your router bit should be perfectly vertical to the lift. Something...possibly the blocks around the router...isn't installed correctly. One of the folks in customer service can help you troubleshoot it.
Reset the router in the router lift and make sure the router bit is squared to the plate. Then re-install the router and plate and make sure the router bit is square to the router table. If it is not square, adjust the leveling screws to make sure it is at 90 degrees in all directions.
Doesn't need to be perpendicular to the plate. All the matters is the position with respect to the cutter:) If it were a linear motion cutter (like a tablesaw blade), then you'd need to worry about fence alignment and not just fence position.
Reed, I think Jacob's issue is that the bit isn't perfectly vertical. In other words, the router is cocked slightly in the lift.
@@WoodpeckersLLC oh, yikes. never thought of that but yeah, you definitely need to get the router into the lift straight!
The name pensil in old Castilian means delicious garden.
Jeff, I want to pull the trigger on the Super Fence with the Micro Adjust, but I'm looking to see if it will or can be adapted to a Sawstop cast iron router table that is integrated into my table saw. Do you know if I it can work on it?
P.S. I think that jointer is older than both of us. 🤣
The holes in the base of the fence won't line up with the slots in your table, but all you'll have to do is drill a couple holes in the (aluminum...drills easy) base extrusion.
Edited to Add: You're right. The born on date on my jointer is 1950. Mine was about 7 years later.
@@WoodpeckersLLC My date would be 9 years later, fortunately, we're all three still kicking!
Yes, I see how the Super Fence can be drilled to fit, but you think the Micro Adjust can be too? That looks a bit differernt. I'm thinking I might have to adapt a couple of Magswitchs to attach it to the table top being there isn't a T-track on mine for it. I was hoping some one else may have addressed this before. May just have to jump in and see.
Simpler solution would be to buy a piece of our DP track that is long enough to reach across the tracks in your router table. Just looking and guessing, I think a 24" will reach. If not, get a 36" and cut it down. Then you can use it exactly as designed. It won't be red, but it will work perfectly.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Ah-ha, I get it now, Duh... Well I just placed the order today for the squares you recommened for me on 2/5, "I would get the 2616 in aluminum and the 1812 in stainless steel". When the wife is distracted, and maybe just after Valentines day, I'll sneak this order in. 😜
And then, the Rip-Flip, then the DP Pro, then.... does it ever stop 🤦♂️
Nice
Wouldn't it be easier if the bit had a bottom bearing? It would be pretty easy to line up the outfeed side of fence with a straight edge against the bearing. Then just lower the router, so the bearing is below the top of the table. Then move the infeed back to desired depth of cut.
Setting to a bearing would certainly work, though I would imagine a tweak or two will still be needed to get the cut perfectly in line with the outfeed. Solid carbide spirals are a bit more economical than piloted brazed spirals.
Also, a spiral bit insures that a portion of the cutting surface is always forward.
@@terryt2910 Ah good point, I could use a spiral bit w/ a bearing. I use those for template cutting. But I understand some repositioning will probably be required to avoid any snipe. Thanx for reply. I didn't think about cutting surface and location.
What router bit is this?
Solid carbide spiral. Doesn't matter what diameter, but in my personal opinion, larger is better. I use a 3/4" or 1".
@@WoodpeckersLLC can you recommend a brand and model?
Whiteside, Amana, CMT...can't go wrong with any of those. Shouldn't leave out Freud, either...they are good, too.
Do you need to run the board through a few times to get a square edge?
Depends on how bad it is to begin with. Typically, yes, it will take a few passes.
Close, but no cigar. I want to rout the board to 96mm. Not 97, not 95, 96.000mm.
That's a table saw, not a jointer. Next step.
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Great for an edge but what about the face of a board. Get a joiner, worth the money
This technique is especially useful when you have to edge joint small pieces that are not safe to edge on a jointer. Also to refine an edge on a board at glue-up time.
Doesn't work very well from my experience
Safety gear ears, eyes and hands....
Really an unfair comparison. Whereas I do not disagree with using the router as a jointer you should use a helix cutter in the real jointer as you did in the router. Your type of comparison is fake IMHO.
You're right that a $400 replacement helical cutterhead would improve the cut of the jointer. The point is, a $60 router bit in a router table you likely already have gets the job done today.
Why do you start your sentences with "so"?
So, I didn't realize how often I did that until you mentioned it. The bad habit I hear in my own playback is "Immanna" when I mean "I am going to".
I'll start watching the "So's". Ya know?
Come on man get real if the jointer had spiral cutters it would leave as good a finish as the router.Cut out fudging just compare apples with apples this was a pathetic example.
So, you're saying it's smarter to spend a thousand dollars (or more) to upgrade an existing jointer that you already have than to walk over to your router table and use a proven technique? Not everyone has a jointer with a spiral head, in fact I would bet my next paycheck that straight blade jointers outnumber spiral jointers in use by a huge percentage.
@@WoodpeckersLLC no I'm saying that you did not compare apples with apples. your jointer had single blades and your router bit was a spiral so your example of using both options was not fair in any shape or form.
The goal was not to compare a jointer to a router table or to compare straight blades to spiral blades. The goal was to show that if you don't have a spiral head jointer you can get similar results with a simple technique and a $20-$30 router bit.
@@WoodpeckersLLC OK, but what is the cost of that router table setup you're using, as shown? Using cost savings as a benefit when talking about Woodpecker products is kind of ironic.