I must say that Woodpeckers has some of the best, and most professorially designed and engineered, tools available today. I have a few. At age 81, with several cabinets full of tools collected from 3 generations, I am a little short on room. I do not do as much wood working as I used to but, I look forward to Jeff and the Wood Peckers deep dive. I have learned so many new techniques and short cuts from him that it inspires me to attempt new projects. I will say that Jeff is very professional PLUS he explains thing in a manor that he doesn't talk down to the experts yet conveys his messages in a way that the novice can easily understand and follow them. The first thing I do on Friday morning is look for, and watch, the Deep Dive. I have introduced a couple of my wood working friend, as well as a couple professional cabinet makers, who have purchased tools from watching Jeff and the Deep Dive. Please convey my thanks to Jeff and keep the Deep Dive going. John Kolodziejski - The Warsaw Wizard
Great video with equally great information!! (As usual!) I'm 89 years old and Woodpeckers prices generally give me heartburn since I'm on fixed income. I've bitten the bullet, so to speak, several times and own some Woodpecker products that I'm happy with. However, my wood crafting abilities do not justify $330 dollars for this miter gauge.
Claude, Thanks for your comment. If you're looking for some of the features of the Exact-90 at a lower price point, take a look at the StealthStop Miter Gauge. The bar uses the same leaf-spring feature and it has an excellent stop system. Take a look: th-cam.com/video/_glkKhwW3U8/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/GlYrrfADick/w-d-xo.html
I just received my EXACT 90 . I haven’t put it together yet but I am enjoying these great videos.great information always . I have friend come by with his new square set from Woodpeckers, they were beautiful but I have no idea of cost until I asked . Wow I thought that’s a lot of money. I had never heard of woodpeckers, now I’m sold on their quality @nd attention to all the details .
I never cease to be amazed at how much thought has gone into each of your tools. I also thoroughly enjoy the Deep Dive and other videos. Please don't ever feel discouraged by the haters. They have nothing else to do but whine.
I certainly hope Jeff Farris has some sort of ownership interest in the company, because if he doesn't, he should. The level of knowledge, calmness and enthusiasm he brings to the table in his video presentations are unique in this day and age of online sales. I watch these not only because I think the brand has much to offer, but also because I know I will be seeing a top notch presentation by Jeff. Great stuff.
He is a first-rate demonstrator and spokesperson ... exactly the kind of person my former company was looking for to represent us at trade shows and seminars.
I always say 'ouch' at the price, but I own an awful lot of your tools and never regret it every time I use them. That said, I have your miter sled on order which I think will be great. I have an Incra miter gauge I love and used on my Dad's old Craftsman table saw and made it a decent saw, especially once I added an Incra fence. I upgraded to a Grizzly saw last year and added a Jess-Em miter gauge which is great and both allows angled cuts and includes a return-to-90 lock. While I prefer my Jess-Em miter gauge, I sure look forward to getting your miter sled in a couple months! Thanks for great and ingenious tools!
On Your Craftsman table saw here in this video Is the Throat plate original ? If not where did it come from? The only table saw that I have ever owned has been a cast iron Craftsman. I have been woodworking for 68 years. Thanks Jeff Peters
If you don't yet own any Woodpeckers products, may I suggest a 1281 square. It is an amazing 12" Aluminum square and is relatively affordable at $129.99. Trust me, you will not regret it. But be aware, this one is a gate way drug, of sorts. 😁 www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-precision-woodworking-square-12-x-261.html
As John Barr points out in his on-point comment below "Excellent video as usual but I would have liked to have seen what we all do on the 5 cut method, that is measure the width of the cut off piece at each end and subtract the difference. That will really tell us the error (we can divide by 4 ourselves to make the video simpler) but I'm sure its near zero. Not really elaborate mathematics" - I agree - this simple subtraction method provides one with a quantifiable level of error which is then used to adjust the fence to bring it to square. The video above by Woodpecker Tools does not illustrate a measurable error, nor the actions required to bring it back to square. Further, the 5 cut method as described by William Ng uses the length between the pivot point and fence as a part of the final calculation which is ignored. If amyone has any ideas or suggestions on how to apply William Ng's method and corrective action to the Exact-90, I'd love to hear them. Thank you - looking forward to reading the feedback.
Pre-ordered mine as soon as it was shown after building my first project: a Miter Saw Station...and my Craftsman table saw just could NOT get a 90 degree angle. You can't go wrong with Woodpeckers. I am addicted to Woodpecker's high-end measuring tools!
Thank you for the explanation knowledge very much My question is does wood beaker hades the same meter gauge in metric scale ? If it’s , haw much the distance gaps between the saw stop disc it should ?
I own this miter gauge. The flip stop is not in direct contact with the engraved scale unless the stop is flipped up. However, when it's flipped up, it is rotating around a threaded rod by 1/4 of a turn. When that happens, the stop's arm is moving away from the material, then when rotated back down, it moves back towards the material. Consequently, the pitch of the threaded rod introduces an error (1/4 of the pitch) if one uses the scale with the stop's arm flipped up. What it the pitch of the threaded rod?
Jeff - Great tool! I totally get the only cutting 90 deg square cut idea but prefer my Incra miter gauge and also the sled. With that said I buy a lot of the Woodpecker products - probably more than I should. I love my Woodpecker tools. Not one for telling someone else how to do things but if it was me and for show and tell - I would install the miter gauge so the tee nuts are protruding on the back side of the saw table. This way the miter gauge and bar are already flat when you pull it back. No tweaking or twisting ever occurs. Just me! Also I really like the photo/drawing of the Woodpecker on the square - it hangs on your back wall and is always seen from the camera. You should consider selling them? Yeah I would buy one in a heart beat. Have a great 4th of July weekend.
Dean, I like your idea about installing a T-track miter gauge from the rear, and I will try it with the Exact-90, but it won't be as slick as your idea will be for any other T-track. The Exact-90 springs cannot be "dropped" in. They have to enter the track the end. The shop apron woodpecker is an original. One of two that are almost identical. No plans for reprints.
Great tool! I make 90-degree cuts more than every other angle combined. I wish I could buy a jointer that had only a 90-degree fence! Quick question- does Woodpecker guarantee that it the Exact-90 won't drift over time (similar to the squares)?
The clamping handle is very tight and the calibration cam takes a considerable amount of torque to make an adjustment. I don't think there is any way it could "drift". That said, we stand behind all our tools. If you're not happy, we'll fix it or replace it.
We actually had that debate when we were working on the tool. We couldn't come up with a more appropriate name that people would recognize. Hence, it starts with Exact-90.
@@acerjuglans383 Wiktionary: "A joint between two members at an angle to each other; each member is cut at an angle equal to half the angle of the junction and usually joint at right angles to each other." Wikipedia: "A mitre joint (often miter in American English) is a joint made by cutting each of two parts to be joined, across the main surface, usually at a 45° angle, to form a corner, usually to form a 90° angle, though it can comprise any angle greater than 0 degrees. It is called beveling when the angled cut is done on the side, although the resulting joint is still a mitre joint." So I guess that's why not. :-)
could you use an 1/8" drill bit or a 1/8" setup block to set the distance between the fence and the blade? when setting the scale. I can't quite get it right on using explained method. Probably because I was using the sac fence.
Jerry, try it without the sac fence in place. Should work either way, but you have an extra set of "moving parts" when the sac fence is on. Just remember to put the back side of the stop on 1/2" and then kiss the blade.
There is a fundamental flaw in your setup. The blade should be exactly parallel to the miter slot, when the saw is running, since the torque of the motor on the blade carriage can cause a slight change in alignment compared with the motor off. I use a fence stop, and check the length of a piece of scrap wood cut slightly on the front edge of the saw blade, and then moved to cut on the back side of the blade. There should be no perceptible offset. Squaring the fence to the blade when the miter slot is at an angle (however slight) to the blade is utterly worthless, and will cause burning of the material if the cut is more than a few inches.
Quantum, I agree. I initially use a square to get my miter gauge to a very specific angle. Most of the time 90°. I then make a test cut under power. Then I tweak my miter gauge into perfect squareness using the final perfect test cut as my committed set up..
Hi Jeff and great job on the presentation. There is a stand behind you when you are at the Craftsman saw...It says something like alko-4 Professional. Can you clarify what that this and the model number? Thanks in advance.
That is a Danish Walko Workbench. It's what I use when I'm breaking down full sheets of plywood. It folds in half when not in use. I don't think it is available in the States anymore.
I have the Saw gauge. It works well as intended..BUT it’s very annoying that the knurled stop knob is not on a thread which would allow a micro fine adjustment of the dial needle to zero and thus enable its use for any other run-out measurements. I have solved this with a 12 thou shim, but it would cost Woodpeckers nothing to thread that knob.
I've got my Exact 90 MG and I love everything about it. Though I'm confused on the extended scale, I wanna make sure I'm not seeing this wrong. When fully extended, that stadard scale ends 24" and some and then jumps right to the extended scale at 45".... so 24, 45, 44, 43, 42, 41, etc.... I would expect it to be the opposite. 24,25,26,27,etc. What am I missing?
Colton, it sounds like your extension was lasered on the wrong side. It only fits in the fence one direction, and if the engraving is on the wrong side, it starts from the wrong end. Contact Customer Service at 800-752-0725. We'll send you a replacement right away. Ask for Mike...he's expecting your call.
At 7:10, instead of aligning the blade that's 0.002" off, why not just align the fence to the bar directly with a square like your 642SS? Register the handle against the non-flex side of the bar and the blade against the fence, then tighten down. Easy and removes blade alignment issues out of the equation. This is also what you'd do for a miter gauge on a router table - where there is no flat blade to align against.
With the blade reading within .002", either method should work fine. In general, I tend to trust aligning to the cutting tool more than aligning a jig to be square to itself.
Saw this and said I need one then saw the $330 price tag…yikes I’m an occasional DIY so the price point completely crush want for one. I will spend the extra time dialing in my sled to give me 90 degree exact cuts.
Any way to reverse the fence, for left leaning saws, and being able to cut from the right miter bar slot? I don't see the benefit to using the left miter bar slot - less support for the work piece, and the left leaning saw blade would cut into the fence. I have a SawStop, and it's left leaning.
Is there any plan to make a version that uses the miter slot on the right side of the blade rather than the left side? I have a cabinet saw, and like most cabinet saws, there is more table on the right side of the saw than the left side which means there is more support for longer pieces. Other than this issue, I think the concept is great since most cross-cuts are at 90 degrees.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Is the extrusion symmetrical? If so, you could flip it around. The numbers will be upside down, but would still work. Edit: Actually, I see it's not. Diff slot in the face, and there are also holes drilled for the extension
Right tilt left tilt blade , the only time the scale will be right is when the blade is a perfect 90 to the table, if your blade is tilted then the cut won't be dead on. Sorry I had to say that becuse some guy won't have his blade a perfect 90 to the table make a cut and blame the miter being off. It just means for some reason your saws 90 stop is off, that could be sawdust or a thin slice of wood. Or it just lost its calibrations.
So you mention that it should fit Cheap saws as well as $$$$$ saws. My one question: since I have one of the cheapest saws on the market, as I’m a newbie to this art form. Will it fit a Ryobi miter slot? If it does I’m on it.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank You for your response. One day I may be able to afford a compatible table saw as I learn more of the wood working art form. Yours in Woodworking Henry
We can't do it, but any metal cutting band saw or abrasive cut-off saw can cut the steel. What you do with it once it is in your shop is up to you...at least that is what the lawyers tell me.
A MITER SLOT OUT BY .0002 OVER A 6 TO 7" DISTANCE MIGHT BE IN THE SAWS TOLRANCE BUT YOU HAVE THE TOOL TO FIX IT CLOSER, TAKE THE TIME TO GET IT DEAD ON. That .0002 is still cutting crooked your out 1 to 2 minutes. Depending on how large your part is in length if its 15' long the .0002 will show up but that also depends on what your making. Oops forgot it was wood were working with you dont need tool and die makers pression. .0002 is close enough. But hay lets fix it anyway. If its off .0002 your only splitting the difference so adjusting it closer is a very small move. Thats less then 1/2 the dia of a human hair. A slight soft tap might fix it, oops you went to far. My point is you start making moves when its that close its very easy to knock it way out of alignment just roll with the .0002 the glue will fill in the gap.
Um..two thou mate..not 0.0002 which would be two, ten thousandths😜. Two thou is 0.058 mm or a twentieth of a millimeter over five inches. So over an eight foot sheet length (96” or about 20x5”) that’s about 1mm out. Not significant, even edge joining full boards of vertical, plaster board for an internal wall, but ok, if it can be made spot on and you’ve nothing better to do, why not? But then I must I wonder how accurate the gauge is?
How close was the craftsman saw table miter slots to the blade to start? And that old saw might not look like much, but add on a incrua fence system A table saw zero clearance incert and splitter you can do just as nice of work as the 4k dollar sawstop. It just dosnt have the safty feature as the sawstop. Now take a 2014 sears table saw and put it in the dumpster. Its trash. The 1960 version was made in the USA The 2014 was imported from China And its junk. My dad had that older Sears Craftsmen table saw, we built a lot of boats with it when I was 3 to 9 years old in the 1960s. I think he bought his in 1962 I was 2 we went to sears with my mom, id just started to walk, I think my day spent 97 dollars on it and refused to spend 2.50 for the stand. So he made one out of 2x4 were talking old framing timbers. Not the undersize 2x4 we have today.
12:10… The eye is certainly not a perfect lens…but white balance and other perception feature are handled in processing…by your brain. Notice for example if you photo your tv screen…you eye sees only tv picture, but the photo of it shows in-room reflected images. In a room lit by a filament lamp your eyes see normal, but a camera sees the true red hue, and at dusk you see normally, but a camera picks up the blue hue. It is not a camera fault..it is the smart human brain adjusting your perception.
When the stop is touching the blade with the back of the stop on the 1/2" mark, the end of the fence will be 1/8" away from the blade. Then when you put the front of the stop on the 1/2" mark, it will be calibrated 1/2" from the blade. It works because the stop is exactly 1/2" wide.
Excellent video as usual but I would have liked to have seen what we all do on the 5 cut method, that is measure the width of the cut off piece at each end and subtract the difference. That will really tell us the error (we can divide by 4 ourselves to make the video simpler) but I'm sure its near zero. Not really elaborate mathematics Also I hope you've noticed the large number of people who want a metric version. You're squares, rulers and many other products have both so why is it difficult to either make two fences or have both scales on one somehow although that might be difficult given the design of the top of the fence. This is the only reason I haven't ordered and I'm sure there are plenty of others who feel the same way. I've always wanted a 90 degree only gauge that will reliably stay at 90 deg. but not if its only imperial. That really is a deal breaker. Has there been any discussions with the Woodpecker designers and engineers to have a metric version? If not why not? As someone noted below that would stay in touch with the rest of the world.
Completely agree with the first part of your comment. Subtraction and simple division is not "elaborate mathematics". In its simplest form, all that was needed was a set of digital calipers and a calculator. Measure top and bottom, subtract those two numbers and divide by 4. That's as basic as it gets. It almost makes me think he wasn't sure (or knew) how to properly perform the 5 cut method in this video.
Would have already placed an order if you hadn’t taken into account all of us who make use of the right side of the saw. Having all that support when cutting is a real plus. Loosing the scale is significant. Also disappointed in how you left off the most important piece of the 5 cut system and that was measuring each end of the last cut and dividing by 4. Cutting it n half and placing them side by side almost seemed as if you were hiding something. If it was exact 90 you could have proved it by doing it right.
My Skilsaw jobsite saw has a powder coated table including the miter slot. It is off tolerance all the way down the slot and I would be hesitant to even try this. On top of that, the table will not align to the blade. I can get the blade to align to the fence but not the miter slot. So for those out there with a Skilsaw jobsite saw beware. I like the original idea. But not being available for six months is a show stopper for a lot of people, not knowing for sure if it fits one's particular saw is an issue, and the price are problematic in a way. However, given the limited manufacturing capability of Woodpeckers, they will sell out immediately (good for them). A simple crosscut sled is much cheaper, can be made to fit one's exact saw no matter who makes it, and can be made reasonably accurate. It just takes time, but given the fact that one has to wait 6 months anyway, ah well. Good job Jeff on the video. I wish you would have started out with the Craftsman saw and set the tool up on it instead of a state of the art Sawstop, which probably doesn't need it anyway. Tell the guys in the R&D section that they are doing a great job!!!
By the time you buy all the junk you need to make an American table saw function adequately you'll realize that your could have bought a European machine that functions properly out of the box.
aware, I don't know. I can buy a lot of cool Woodpeckers stuff for the price of a Felder Format4 Kappa or a MartinT60 or even an Altendorf, SCMI, etc. And then I'd have to add at least another couple of thousand $$+ for a 3-phase power converter (e.g., PhasePerfect) unless I lived in an industrial area and could convince the power company to install 3-phase. Mine told me, NOPE, not at any price. And dealing with most of the Euro slider saw makers in the USA is an exercise in serious aggravation and arrogance. They act like in selling me a saw they are doing me a favor. (They make you feel like a hinterland hayseed wanting to buy a bespoke Armani suit on Rodeo Drive.)
Give metric.. You guys should quit the British imperial system and join the rest of the world!.. Even the Brits abandoned their own ancient system and started to use the metric one since 1965.. Because it's more accurate. 🤓😜
Well.. Ease leads to accuracy after all.. Specifically when you wanna measure frictional dimensions and thats why 97% of people are using the metric system.. As far as i remember only 3 countries in the entire world are still using imperial.
I must say that Woodpeckers has some of the best, and most professorially designed and engineered, tools available today. I have a few. At age 81, with several cabinets full of tools collected from 3 generations, I am a little short on room. I do not do as much wood working as I used to but, I look forward to Jeff and the Wood Peckers deep dive. I have learned so many new techniques and short cuts from him that it inspires me to attempt new projects. I will say that Jeff is very professional PLUS he explains thing in a manor that he doesn't talk down to the experts yet conveys his messages in a way that the novice can easily understand and follow them. The first thing I do on Friday morning is look for, and watch, the Deep Dive. I have introduced a couple of my wood working friend, as well as a couple professional cabinet makers, who have purchased tools from watching Jeff and the Deep Dive. Please convey my thanks to Jeff and keep the Deep Dive going.
John Kolodziejski - The Warsaw Wizard
John, thanks for the kind words. Much appreciated.
Great video with equally great information!! (As usual!) I'm 89 years old and Woodpeckers prices generally give me heartburn since I'm on fixed income. I've bitten the bullet, so to speak, several times and own some Woodpecker products that I'm happy with. However, my wood crafting abilities do not justify $330 dollars for this miter gauge.
Claude, Thanks for your comment. If you're looking for some of the features of the Exact-90 at a lower price point, take a look at the StealthStop Miter Gauge. The bar uses the same leaf-spring feature and it has an excellent stop system. Take a look: th-cam.com/video/_glkKhwW3U8/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/GlYrrfADick/w-d-xo.html
Heck yeah man! I appreciate your company's devotion to precision and accuracy... and skookumness.
Skookum as frig
I just received my EXACT 90 . I haven’t put it together yet but I am enjoying these great videos.great information always . I have friend come by with his new square set from Woodpeckers, they were beautiful but I have no idea of cost until I asked . Wow I thought that’s a lot of money. I had never heard of woodpeckers, now I’m sold on their quality @nd attention to all the details .
I never cease to be amazed at how much thought has gone into each of your tools. I also thoroughly enjoy the Deep Dive and other videos. Please don't ever feel discouraged by the haters. They have nothing else to do but whine.
Is there a metric version available?
I certainly hope Jeff Farris has some sort of ownership interest in the company, because if he doesn't, he should.
The level of knowledge, calmness and enthusiasm he brings to the table in his video presentations are unique in this day and age of online sales.
I watch these not only because I think the brand has much to offer, but also because I know I will be seeing a top notch presentation by Jeff.
Great stuff.
He is a first-rate demonstrator and spokesperson ... exactly the kind of person my former company was looking for to represent us at trade shows and seminars.
@@GeraldJensen absolutely first rate. Thanks for responding.
agree
@@GeraldJensen no listen to what he tells you to do in the video, watch it again and listen closely
@@rogerbarrett5439 Read my comment again and tell me what you think I said that is in disagreement with his presentation.
18:13 awwwwwww snap! Jeff drops the mic.
I'm going to save my pennies for this. It looks like a game changer for small projects and cabinetry for the hobbyist.
Oh nuts. I gotta de-subscribe. Every deep dive I watch makes me want to buy one. This would be a nice complement to my Osborne EB-3.
Woodpeckers, The BEST tools on the market!!!
So excited to get mine in the mail! I even ordered a Katz-Moses stop block for it
Any plans for one to fit a shopsmith table saw.
Great Job Nicely Done Beautyful Craftsman Table Saw👍🏽
I always say 'ouch' at the price, but I own an awful lot of your tools and never regret it every time I use them. That said, I have your miter sled on order which I think will be great. I have an Incra miter gauge I love and used on my Dad's old Craftsman table saw and made it a decent saw, especially once I added an Incra fence. I upgraded to a Grizzly saw last year and added a Jess-Em miter gauge which is great and both allows angled cuts and includes a return-to-90 lock. While I prefer my Jess-Em miter gauge, I sure look forward to getting your miter sled in a couple months! Thanks for great and ingenious tools!
Just got my Exact-90 installed. Love it! The quality is amazing.
I would buy one of these in a heartbeat if Woodpeck would make a bar for the ShopSmith PowerPro table! They used to make SS miter bars.
On Your Craftsman table saw here in this video Is the Throat plate original ? If not where did it come from? The only table saw that I have ever owned has been a cast iron Craftsman. I have been woodworking for 68 years. Thanks Jeff Peters
Jeff, as far as I know, it is original. I bought the saw used a few years ago, and everything else on it was original.
Will there be a metric version coming.
You guys make wonderful precision tools. I aspire to own few of them actually all of them
If you don't yet own any Woodpeckers products, may I suggest a 1281 square. It is an amazing 12" Aluminum square and is relatively affordable at $129.99. Trust me, you will not regret it. But be aware, this one is a gate way drug, of sorts. 😁
www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-precision-woodworking-square-12-x-261.html
Great vid and looking forward to picking up one of your mitre fences.
Is there a holddown available that can slide into the T track. Be a lot simpler versus holding that piece of wood
Not at this time.
As John Barr points out in his on-point comment below "Excellent video as usual but I would have liked to have seen what we all do on the 5 cut method, that is measure the width of the cut off piece at each end and subtract the difference. That will really tell us the error (we can divide by 4 ourselves to make the video simpler) but I'm sure its near zero. Not really elaborate mathematics" - I agree - this simple subtraction method provides one with a quantifiable level of error which is then used to adjust the fence to bring it to square. The video above by Woodpecker Tools does not illustrate a measurable error, nor the actions required to bring it back to square. Further, the 5 cut method as described by William Ng uses the length between the pivot point and fence as a part of the final calculation which is ignored. If amyone has any ideas or suggestions on how to apply William Ng's method and corrective action to the Exact-90, I'd love to hear them. Thank you - looking forward to reading the feedback.
Pre-ordered mine as soon as it was shown after building my first project: a Miter Saw Station...and my Craftsman table saw just could NOT get a 90 degree angle. You can't go wrong with Woodpeckers. I am addicted to Woodpecker's high-end measuring tools!
Thank you for the explanation knowledge very much
My question is does wood beaker hades the same meter gauge in metric scale ?
If it’s , haw much the distance gaps between the saw stop disc it should ?
I own this miter gauge. The flip stop is not in direct contact with the engraved scale unless the stop is flipped up. However, when it's flipped up, it is rotating around a threaded rod by 1/4 of a turn. When that happens, the stop's arm is moving away from the material, then when rotated back down, it moves back towards the material. Consequently, the pitch of the threaded rod introduces an error (1/4 of the pitch) if one uses the scale with the stop's arm flipped up. What it the pitch of the threaded rod?
Do you include plans to build the sacrificial fence? Once it’s outlived it’s usefulness it will need to be replaced.
Thanks for sharing Awesome info: great show love it. and God Bless Always.,
I pre ordered one. I wish it didn't take till December to get it
Jeff - Great tool! I totally get the only cutting 90 deg square cut idea but prefer my Incra miter gauge and also the sled. With that said I buy a lot of the Woodpecker products - probably more than I should. I love my Woodpecker tools.
Not one for telling someone else how to do things but if it was me and for show and tell - I would install the miter gauge so the tee nuts are protruding on the back side of the saw table. This way the miter gauge and bar are already flat when you pull it back. No tweaking or twisting ever occurs. Just me!
Also I really like the photo/drawing of the Woodpecker on the square - it hangs on your back wall and is always seen from the camera. You should consider selling them? Yeah I would buy one in a heart beat. Have a great 4th of July weekend.
Dean, I like your idea about installing a T-track miter gauge from the rear, and I will try it with the Exact-90, but it won't be as slick as your idea will be for any other T-track. The Exact-90 springs cannot be "dropped" in. They have to enter the track the end.
The shop apron woodpecker is an original. One of two that are almost identical. No plans for reprints.
Any plans on making the measurement engraving in metric?
Sorry, not at this time. I'll pass your request (and the mountain of others) on to the product engineer.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Given that you have so many metric equivalent versions, why be so narrow minded now?
I second your question
@@WoodpeckersLLC a metric version would be great,
Most countries are metric, why exclude it?
Great tool! I make 90-degree cuts more than every other angle combined. I wish I could buy a jointer that had only a 90-degree fence! Quick question- does Woodpecker guarantee that it the Exact-90 won't drift over time (similar to the squares)?
The clamping handle is very tight and the calibration cam takes a considerable amount of torque to make an adjustment. I don't think there is any way it could "drift". That said, we stand behind all our tools. If you're not happy, we'll fix it or replace it.
What shop are you in with a fireplace?
My basement. It's nice in the fall and winter.
Social media question. Why is it called a miter gauge when it cannot be pivoted to cut a miter?
We actually had that debate when we were working on the tool. We couldn't come up with a more appropriate name that people would recognize. Hence, it starts with Exact-90.
Why can't 90° be considered a miter angle?
@@acerjuglans383 Wiktionary: "A joint between two members at an angle to each other; each member is cut at an angle equal to half the angle of the junction and usually joint at right angles to each other."
Wikipedia: "A mitre joint (often miter in American English) is a joint made by cutting each of two parts to be joined, across the main surface, usually at a 45° angle, to form a corner, usually to form a 90° angle, though it can comprise any angle greater than 0 degrees. It is called beveling when the angled cut is done on the side, although the resulting joint is still a mitre joint."
So I guess that's why not. :-)
could you use an 1/8" drill bit or a 1/8" setup block to set the distance between the fence and the blade? when setting the scale. I can't quite get it right on using explained method. Probably because I was using the sac fence.
Jerry, try it without the sac fence in place. Should work either way, but you have an extra set of "moving parts" when the sac fence is on. Just remember to put the back side of the stop on 1/2" and then kiss the blade.
There is a fundamental flaw in your setup. The blade should be exactly parallel to the miter slot, when the saw is running, since the torque of the motor on the blade carriage can cause a slight change in alignment compared with the motor off. I use a fence stop, and check the length of a piece of scrap wood cut slightly on the front edge of the saw blade, and then moved to cut on the back side of the blade. There should be no perceptible offset. Squaring the fence to the blade when the miter slot is at an angle (however slight) to the blade is utterly worthless, and will cause burning of the material if the cut is more than a few inches.
Quantum, I agree. I initially use a square to get my miter gauge to a very specific angle. Most of the time 90°. I then make a test cut under power. Then I tweak my miter gauge into perfect squareness using the final perfect test cut as my committed set up..
Sold ! 😀
Looks great, but will wood dust not affect the function of the small leaf springs over time?
We have a lot of hours of testing and haven't seen that yet.
Will your stuff work on Ryobi table saws?
Measure the miter gauge slot. If it's 3/4" wide and 3/8" deep, it will fit.
Hi Jeff and great job on the presentation. There is a stand behind you when you are at the Craftsman saw...It says something like alko-4 Professional. Can you clarify what that this and the model number? Thanks in advance.
That is a Danish Walko Workbench. It's what I use when I'm breaking down full sheets of plywood. It folds in half when not in use. I don't think it is available in the States anymore.
Will the fence and stop be available separately?
The stops and the bar are available separately, but not the fence at this time.
Can the flip stop be ordered separately?
Yes, it can.
I have the Saw gauge. It works well as intended..BUT it’s very annoying that the knurled stop knob is not on a thread which would allow a micro fine adjustment of the dial needle to zero and thus enable its use for any other run-out measurements. I have solved this with a 12 thou shim, but it would cost Woodpeckers nothing to thread that knob.
I’d buy that for sure
I've got my Exact 90 MG and I love everything about it. Though I'm confused on the extended scale, I wanna make sure I'm not seeing this wrong. When fully extended, that stadard scale ends 24" and some and then jumps right to the extended scale at 45".... so 24, 45, 44, 43, 42, 41, etc.... I would expect it to be the opposite. 24,25,26,27,etc. What am I missing?
Colton, it sounds like your extension was lasered on the wrong side. It only fits in the fence one direction, and if the engraving is on the wrong side, it starts from the wrong end. Contact Customer Service at 800-752-0725. We'll send you a replacement right away. Ask for Mike...he's expecting your call.
At 7:10, instead of aligning the blade that's 0.002" off, why not just align the fence to the bar directly with a square like your 642SS? Register the handle against the non-flex side of the bar and the blade against the fence, then tighten down. Easy and removes blade alignment issues out of the equation. This is also what you'd do for a miter gauge on a router table - where there is no flat blade to align against.
With the blade reading within .002", either method should work fine. In general, I tend to trust aligning to the cutting tool more than aligning a jig to be square to itself.
Off question, but what is that black and aluminum frame behind you when doing the 5 cut?
See my reply to Piero Corazza below.
@@WoodpeckersLLC ah, thank you, sorry i missed previous answer! Very interesting!
Will this work on a Grizzly 12” table saw?
Measure the miter gauge slot. If it is 3/4" wide and 3/8" deep, it will work.
Could be used in the right side
of the blade ?
It works perfectly on the right side, but the scale is not functional.
Vibration of the saw saw blade would be a danger in getting too close with metal and a very dense piece of wood could cause it to be more than usual.
Can this be used on the right or left mitre slots?
It can be used in either slot, but the scale is set up for the left slot.
@@WoodpeckersLLC are you planning to release a right side version for this tool?
Saw this and said I need one then saw the $330 price tag…yikes I’m an occasional DIY so the price point completely crush want for one. I will spend the extra time dialing in my sled to give me 90 degree exact cuts.
Any way to reverse the fence, for left leaning saws, and being able to cut from the right miter bar slot? I don't see the benefit to using the left miter bar slot - less support for the work piece, and the left leaning saw blade would cut into the fence. I have a SawStop, and it's left leaning.
It works perfectly on the right side, but the scale is not functional.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Then that's a design fault
Is there any plan to make a version that uses the miter slot on the right side of the blade rather than the left side? I have a cabinet saw, and like most cabinet saws, there is more table on the right side of the saw than the left side which means there is more support for longer pieces.
Other than this issue, I think the concept is great since most cross-cuts are at 90 degrees.
It works perfectly on the right side, but the scale is not functional.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Is the extrusion symmetrical? If so, you could flip it around. The numbers will be upside down, but would still work.
Edit: Actually, I see it's not. Diff slot in the face, and there are also holes drilled for the extension
Right tilt left tilt blade , the only time the scale will be right is when the blade is a perfect 90 to the table, if your blade is tilted then the cut won't be dead on.
Sorry I had to say that becuse some guy won't have his blade a perfect 90 to the table make a cut and blame the miter being off. It just means for some reason your saws 90 stop is off, that could be sawdust or a thin slice of wood. Or it just lost its calibrations.
if y’all had a miter attachment this is would be even better.
So you mention that it should fit Cheap saws as well as $$$$$ saws.
My one question: since I have one of the cheapest saws on the market, as I’m a newbie to this art form. Will it fit a Ryobi miter slot? If it does I’m on it.
I'm not familiar with the Ryobi. Measure the miter slot...if it is 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide, it will fit.
@@WoodpeckersLLC
The slot is 5/8 wide almost 3/8 deep
Sorry. Your slot is too narrow.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank You for your response.
One day I may be able to afford a compatible table saw as I learn more of the wood working art form.
Yours in Woodworking
Henry
Does it fit the Sawstop jobsite pro?
Just checked the SawStop website...it will fit perfectly. The Jobsite Pro is the same size miter slot as their other saws.
@@WoodpeckersLLC thanks. Can the length be trimmed since the JSS is narrower front to back?
We can't do it, but any metal cutting band saw or abrasive cut-off saw can cut the steel. What you do with it once it is in your shop is up to you...at least that is what the lawyers tell me.
WILL IT WORK ON A ROBI CONTRACTORS SAW
Measure your miter slot. If it is 3/8" x 3/4", it will fit.
Okay, when is Woodpeckers going to come out with 45° and 22-1/2° heads?
Probably already in the works.
Unfortunately this will not fit a Shopsmith.
A MITER SLOT OUT BY .0002 OVER A 6 TO 7" DISTANCE MIGHT BE IN THE SAWS TOLRANCE BUT YOU HAVE THE TOOL TO FIX IT CLOSER, TAKE THE TIME TO GET IT DEAD ON. That .0002 is still cutting crooked your out 1 to 2 minutes. Depending on how large your part is in length if its 15' long the .0002 will show up but that also depends on what your making.
Oops forgot it was wood were working with you dont need tool and die makers pression. .0002 is close enough.
But hay lets fix it anyway. If its off .0002 your only splitting the difference so adjusting it closer is a very small move.
Thats less then 1/2 the dia of a human hair. A slight soft tap might fix it, oops you went to far.
My point is you start making moves when its that close its very easy to knock it way out of alignment just roll with the .0002 the glue will fill in the gap.
Um..two thou mate..not 0.0002 which would be two, ten thousandths😜. Two thou is 0.058 mm or a twentieth of a millimeter over five inches. So over an eight foot sheet length (96” or about 20x5”) that’s about 1mm out. Not significant, even edge joining full boards of vertical, plaster board for an internal wall, but ok, if it can be made spot on and you’ve nothing better to do, why not? But then I must I wonder how accurate the gauge is?
How close was the craftsman saw table miter slots to the blade to start?
And that old saw might not look like much, but add on a incrua fence system
A table saw zero clearance incert and splitter you can do just as nice of work as the 4k dollar sawstop. It just dosnt have the safty feature as the sawstop.
Now take a 2014 sears table saw and put it in the dumpster. Its trash.
The 1960 version was made in the USA
The 2014 was imported from China
And its junk.
My dad had that older Sears Craftsmen table saw, we built a lot of boats with it when I was 3 to 9 years old in the 1960s.
I think he bought his in 1962 I was 2 we went to sears with my mom, id just started to walk, I think my day spent 97 dollars on it and refused to spend 2.50 for the stand. So he made one out of 2x4 were talking old framing timbers.
Not the undersize 2x4 we have today.
12:10… The eye is certainly not a perfect lens…but white balance and other perception feature are handled in processing…by your brain. Notice for example if you photo your tv screen…you eye sees only tv picture, but the photo of it shows in-room reflected images. In a room lit by a filament lamp your eyes see normal, but a camera sees the true red hue, and at dusk you see normally, but a camera picks up the blue hue. It is not a camera fault..it is the smart human brain adjusting your perception.
I'm surprised that you go all through the 5 cut method without measuring the result!
As mentioned in the video, there was no discernable difference in thickness of the off-cut from one end to the other.
You stopped short on the calibration. You never moved the fence away from the blade. All you said was the fence ends up 1/8" from the blade.
When the stop is touching the blade with the back of the stop on the 1/2" mark, the end of the fence will be 1/8" away from the blade. Then when you put the front of the stop on the 1/2" mark, it will be calibrated 1/2" from the blade. It works because the stop is exactly 1/2" wide.
Excellent video as usual but I would have liked to have seen what we all do on the 5 cut method, that is measure the width of the cut off piece at each end and subtract the difference. That will really tell us the error (we can divide by 4 ourselves to make the video simpler) but I'm sure its near zero. Not really elaborate mathematics
Also I hope you've noticed the large number of people who want a metric version. You're squares, rulers and many other products have both so why is it difficult to either make two fences or have both scales on one somehow although that might be difficult given the design of the top of the fence. This is the only reason I haven't ordered and I'm sure there are plenty of others who feel the same way. I've always wanted a 90 degree only gauge that will reliably stay at 90 deg. but not if its only imperial. That really is a deal breaker.
Has there been any discussions with the Woodpecker designers and engineers to have a metric version? If not why not? As someone noted below that would stay in touch with the rest of the world.
Completely agree with the first part of your comment. Subtraction and simple division is not "elaborate mathematics". In its simplest form, all that was needed was a set of digital calipers and a calculator. Measure top and bottom, subtract those two numbers and divide by 4. That's as basic as it gets. It almost makes me think he wasn't sure (or knew) how to properly perform the 5 cut method in this video.
Would have already placed an order if you hadn’t taken into account all of us who make use of the right side of the saw. Having all that support when cutting is a real plus. Loosing the scale is significant. Also disappointed in how you left off the most important piece of the 5 cut system and that was measuring each end of the last cut and dividing by 4. Cutting it n half and placing them side by side almost seemed as if you were hiding something. If it was exact 90 you could have proved it by doing it right.
My Skilsaw jobsite saw has a powder coated table including the miter slot. It is off tolerance all the way down the slot and I would be hesitant to even try this. On top of that, the table will not align to the blade. I can get the blade to align to the fence but not the miter slot. So for those out there with a Skilsaw jobsite saw beware. I like the original idea. But not being available for six months is a show stopper for a lot of people, not knowing for sure if it fits one's particular saw is an issue, and the price are problematic in a way. However, given the limited manufacturing capability of Woodpeckers, they will sell out immediately (good for them). A simple crosscut sled is much cheaper, can be made to fit one's exact saw no matter who makes it, and can be made reasonably accurate. It just takes time, but given the fact that one has to wait 6 months anyway, ah well. Good job Jeff on the video. I wish you would have started out with the Craftsman saw and set the tool up on it instead of a state of the art Sawstop, which probably doesn't need it anyway. Tell the guys in the R&D section that they are doing a great job!!!
Interesting how at 14:09 some safety glasses magically appear on your face.
No magic. If you look at 13:44 you can see me start to reach for them before the edit to the close-up.
Very very expensive for a mitre gauge that stucks at 0° and cannot turn!
Did you not read any of the info or watch the video? Its entire reason for being is to always and only make 90-degree cuts.
Nice miter gauge but with a 6 month lead time I’m out…😩
Interesting product! The music almost makes it unwatchable ..
too bad it takes you all half a year to make an order
By the time you buy all the junk you need to make an American table saw function adequately you'll realize that your could have bought a European machine that functions properly out of the box.
aware, I don't know. I can buy a lot of cool Woodpeckers stuff for the price of a Felder Format4 Kappa or a MartinT60 or even an Altendorf, SCMI, etc. And then I'd have to add at least another couple of thousand $$+ for a 3-phase power converter (e.g., PhasePerfect) unless I lived in an industrial area and could convince the power company to install 3-phase. Mine told me, NOPE, not at any price. And dealing with most of the Euro slider saw makers in the USA is an exercise in serious aggravation and arrogance. They act like in selling me a saw they are doing me a favor. (They make you feel like a hinterland hayseed wanting to buy a bespoke Armani suit on Rodeo Drive.)
Give metric.. You guys should quit the British imperial system and join the rest of the world!.. Even the Brits abandoned their own ancient system and started to use the metric one since 1965.. Because it's more accurate. 🤓😜
Absolutely agree! I can't believe you don't have a metric version. You just lost a sale.
@@WasimBarri Not just a sale - many sales I guess.
And now they're switching back thanks to BoJo.
It’s not more accurate. Any system of measurement is equally accurate. Metric is just easier to do calculations with than fractional inches.
Well.. Ease leads to accuracy after all.. Specifically when you wanna measure frictional dimensions and thats why 97% of people are using the metric system.. As far as i remember only 3 countries in the entire world are still using imperial.
I like and buy a good number of Woodpeckers tools, but this seems to be of poor design.
What makes it a poor design?
Yes….what about it is a poor design? Does one thing and apparently does it well.
@@paulbabcock9606 I didnt understand this comment as well. I'm confused on what makes it a poor design .
It looks like a rock-solid design to me. Pls. tell us why you think so.