its good to use grease back of the seal.its keeping the spring in place,and importent to use little bit grease on the shaft too.because if the seal and shaft its dry when start the saw first time the seal can burn and start to leak.same principal in motorcyckle engines.
I was thinking grease too beinvg from the agriculture diesel world. My only question was grease type in the bottom end of a two stroke but the white lithium makes sense
Good job telling people how to put seal in. 42 years of putting seal in I still mess one up but not as bad as when I was a kid. And to this day if lve got 2 seal to put in I get 3.
Plastic shim stock seems less likely to damage the seal then using a pop can. But making a cone is definately the pro tip. I was imagining a playing card as an alternate choice of material. If the card had a drop of oil on it, it should slide right out.
I think that’s the wisest words ever, I want to replace parts when they are broken, not when I drop them on the floor, my shed is full of parts I find way later when I drop another part I’m looking for
👍👍 I'm waiting on some crank seals for an xl12 that i just finished porting. I might try making a tool to draw them down square, we'll see how patient i'm feeling when i have them on the bench. haha. I've been stung in the face twice this summer while porting. The hornets are drawn to my lamp, which is hot, then they get all pissed at me i guess? haha. My aim with a can of brake clean is much improved though. Keep up the good work Tinman!
I tear off the pick from from a tooth flosser to run around the seal one time and she pops in! Do not use a metal pick. The shop f**ked up my seal and it had a nick in the seal. Nice vid bud! Carefully look at the o-ring where the oiler housing seals in one the main bearings. Mine was f**ded and had to replace that also.
Great video. I enjoyed the demonstration. I have used a piece of plastic, cut from a discarded oil container. I trimmed and heated the plastic to match the smaller diameter of the crank. When installing the seal, I mounted the seal on the plastic before sliding the whole thing on the crank. It worked, but I think I like your beer can idea better.
Great video brother. Crank seals have always been tough! Small engines to big blocks, always gives you butterflies and has you praying to god that you don’t mess it up! Keep up the fantastic content!
Just did the seals on my 268se (not ported). I used a strip on tin from a beer can, nealed (de-burred) the bottom edge so as to not cut the seal when removing it, worked like a charm. The saw had an air leak that was driving me nuts. Finally figured it out. I recently changed out the carb and the saw kept leaning out and then loading up and bogging out. The top plate on the new carb was barfing gas (not properly seated) from factory but only after it warmed up. Adefol carb from amazon.ca. Had success with these before, so rookie mistake not to simply check it. All is good now, she runs like a dream. Love this saw it literally eats wood. Great info on your site, Tinman I have several buddies that repair there own saws and I told them, you gotta hear this guys stuff. I'm a subscriber for sure. A good video on tracking and solving air leaks would likely help tons of people. Cheer and thanks again.
Thanks for the tip about installing the oil pump side seal I'm replacing the seals in my 36 Husqvarna. It runs good when I finally get it started. I have a friend that I remember him having a box of his dad's shim stock and I was going through the sheets l said this stuff goes down to 0.001 of an inch. I'm going to get a piece of it from Mike to assist with installing the crank seal. Thank you for posting. This was very informative.
I recently did my first bottom end rebuild on a 288 and I found out the Husqvarna crank installation tool for the 281/288 also works great for installing the flywheel side crank seal
another great vid. i will use the moto seal around outside of seal on my troybilt roto tiller rear tine seals today. leaking around outside of a new seal. also the cardboard or pop can guide around oil seal was very helpful.
Goes to fit a new oil pump on my 268... First time I've done this on a saw. Prolapses the F$_& out of the seal... Day over. I needed to watch more Tinman.
Your video is so interesting that one forgets to like and subscribe, but I finally remembered.Now I'm putting together a husqvarna 268 thanks to you. Greetings from Slovakia
The pop can trick worked great, thanks for the tip buddy. My 162 is running great again. Tinman, if you ever want to throw one of your saws on the dyno let me know. I’d be honored to be able to test one of your power saws.
Tinman , appreciate your efforts. I myself have benefited from your work on the 038. Got a s797 that will be going back together in a couple months , watching and learning.
Very good information right there. As I watch the porting series videos it is finally or dimly light in my brain the understanding of it all. But one area that you talk about is the stroke, long versus short like the comparison of the 272 to the 372 Husqvarna’s. This is still pretty fuzzy in understanding how you determine a long or short stroke saws. That might be a good video to put together for use to learn about. Thanks again and you ROCK!
That is a great and detailed video Thanks TinMan for sharing your techniques with the world. I have always used a piece of plastic shim stock to get the seal up over the step on a shaft guess I never really thought of using aluminum pop can. I also apply a thin amount of shaffer's 219 Grease is a shaft and inside of the seal so that it never runs dry on initial rotation before it gets lubrication. Thanks again man keep up the good work my friend.
Loved this video never could figure out how to replace a crank seal correctly till now😂👍 I love the way your chainsaws are stored behind you. Could you make a video on how you made it? Need one for my garage😎
Update... Success. Flywheel side Stihl 026. Tapped it down flush with a flat washer similar to how you showed. Then the rest of the way with a socket. Pressure tested. Up and running. Thanks Tinman 👍🏻
This was an awesome build tinman! I got a question for ya...i just replaced the crank seals in a 268 that im putting a 272 top end on. They have put quite a bit of drag on the crank im worried it may be too much? You think they will loosen up when its ran for a few minutes or will it just damage them?
Tks for sharing. I have a 2007 440 husky and starts fine when cold. I run it for 15-20 minutes and shut it off and it’s a real SOB to start again while warm or hot. Would this b crank seals ? Any input would help.
I want one them older husqys so bad there arnt ANY around here...basically...stihl and consumer grade rancher crap..and very little stihl, flea market in morning pray I find a gem, a 266 72 yeah....lol would make my day
If you were changing seals in a Stihl 193 could they be driven in, or does the crankcase have to be separated to seat the seals properly in the half shells?
Alright, I dinkled a seal doing the bottom end on my 395 today. That was my last genuine husky seals. I have a few farmertecs sitting around. Anyone have a experience with them working?
Would you be interested in porting a brand new 562xp , I just won’t to make it a little more powerful not nothing crazy just a good running saw , the saw has never been fired up
Oh beer cans work too buuuuuudy lol, was in lowes earlier and glanced at what looked like a 2xx, 66? 51? L shaped brake same clutch cover and handle bar and shape and an actual bolt on clyinder head I but the back top cover looks makita dolmar round, makes me want to buy one and just set free 46ccs of several decades of saw technology being reintroduced as a "hobby-pro" line, like a mine 266 or 72 whatever, same thing, same oil pump cover...same everythin, look into it..might be able to have some real cheap fun and if its built like an actual 2xx model husqy...only 200 bucks brand new...sounds more fun that a 50cc xtorqe....ask me how I know(450 rancher givennto me broke(new) and put 40$ ignition and golden) but yeah something a little easier to get real power out of...it ain't with the x torque vs non...imho
61/66 are the same chassis as the 266. 272 top end will go right on with the right intake block and screws/gaskets. The 66 cover should clear the 272 top end too
@@82f100swb ya I ended buying 16 parts saws kept a couple and actually my ported stihl 026 was from that lot, but a ripped apart unit with case, crank and piston is a 66, picked up a 61 from work from the scrap pile that should have almost everything I need from recoil, carb, clutch cover and so on just missing top cover. But this thing could be beyond salvaging anything from it not positive yet that'll be a winter project. Once I get things setup since my move and caught up on other saws
its good to use grease back of the seal.its keeping the spring in place,and importent to use little bit grease on the shaft too.because if the seal and shaft its dry when start the saw first time the seal can burn and start to leak.same principal in motorcyckle engines.
Yes! I use white lithium grease and fill the groove between the lips of the seal. Works for me.
Yep grease works good to.
2-stroke oil on the seal is what I use all the time with no issues, to date.
@@tdawg8605 that works too.
I was thinking grease too beinvg from the agriculture diesel world. My only question was grease type in the bottom end of a two stroke but the white lithium makes sense
Good job telling people how to put seal in. 42 years of putting seal in I still mess one up but not as bad as when I was a kid. And to this day if lve got 2 seal to put in I get 3.
Love that you share all your tricks to your viewers.
Mornin Joe!!
Good morning to you Tinman. Hope the weather is cooling down for you. Here in Connecticut it’s been hovering around 100’f or the past few days.
@@JoeRainis156 been warm here during the day but getting cooler at night, fall is coming..
im cleaning up an old k650 cutter... very scored piston and cylinder, lots of play in crank... no crank seals... 😂 amazing that it still ran
Plastic shim stock seems less likely to damage the seal then using a pop can. But making a cone is definately the pro tip. I was imagining a playing card as an alternate choice of material. If the card had a drop of oil on it, it should slide right out.
I think that’s the wisest words ever, I want to replace parts when they are broken, not when I drop them on the floor, my shed is full of parts I find way later when I drop another part I’m looking for
I wish I’d seen this before I rebuild the oil pump on the 181…. thanks again Tinman 👍
Beautiful. Zen and the art of chain saw rebuilding.
Great information👍 I've never replaced this type of seal with an ID smaller than 30mm. Love the pop can cone tip!
👍👍 I'm waiting on some crank seals for an xl12 that i just finished porting. I might try making a tool to draw them down square, we'll see how patient i'm feeling when i have them on the bench. haha. I've been stung in the face twice this summer while porting. The hornets are drawn to my lamp, which is hot, then they get all pissed at me i guess? haha. My aim with a can of brake clean is much improved though. Keep up the good work Tinman!
Using a drill press to gradually apply(as using an Arbor press) pressure is a safe way to install seals if the press fit isn't extremely tight.
I tear off the pick from from a tooth flosser to run around the seal one time and she pops in! Do not use a metal pick. The shop f**ked up my seal and it had a nick in the seal. Nice vid bud! Carefully look at the o-ring where the oiler housing seals in one the main bearings. Mine was f**ded and had to replace that also.
Great video. I enjoyed the demonstration. I have used a piece of plastic, cut from a discarded oil container. I trimmed and heated the plastic to match the smaller diameter of the crank. When installing the seal, I mounted the seal on the plastic before sliding the whole thing on the crank. It worked, but I think I like your beer can idea better.
Great video brother. Crank seals have always been tough! Small engines to big blocks, always gives you butterflies and has you praying to god that you don’t mess it up! Keep up the fantastic content!
My 266 will appreciate this information. You’re a legend
Just did the seals on my 268se (not ported). I used a strip on tin from a beer can, nealed (de-burred) the bottom edge so as to not cut the seal when removing it, worked like a charm. The saw had an air leak that was driving me nuts. Finally figured it out. I recently changed out the carb and the saw kept leaning out and then loading up and bogging out. The top plate on the new carb was barfing gas (not properly seated) from factory but only after it warmed up. Adefol carb from amazon.ca. Had success with these before, so rookie mistake not to simply check it. All is good now, she runs like a dream. Love this saw it literally eats wood. Great info on your site, Tinman I have several buddies that repair there own saws and I told them, you gotta hear this guys stuff. I'm a subscriber for sure. A good video on tracking and solving air leaks would likely help tons of people. Cheer and thanks again.
Thank you tinman for sharing that with us all .Awesome
Thanks for the tip about installing the oil pump side seal I'm replacing the seals in my 36 Husqvarna. It runs good when I finally get it started. I have a friend that I remember him having a box of his dad's shim stock and I was going through the sheets l said this stuff goes down to 0.001 of an inch. I'm going to get a piece of it from Mike to assist with installing the crank seal. Thank you for posting. This was very informative.
I recently did my first bottom end rebuild on a 288 and I found out the Husqvarna crank installation tool for the 281/288 also works great for installing the flywheel side crank seal
another great vid. i will use the moto seal around outside of seal on my troybilt roto tiller rear tine seals today. leaking around outside of a new seal. also the cardboard or pop can guide around oil seal was very helpful.
Goes to fit a new oil pump on my 268... First time I've done this on a saw. Prolapses the F$_& out of the seal... Day over. I needed to watch more Tinman.
Your video is so interesting that one forgets to like and subscribe, but I finally remembered.Now I'm putting together a husqvarna 268 thanks to you. Greetings from Slovakia
Installing crank seals seems a little less intimidating now. Thanks!
The pop can trick worked great, thanks for the tip buddy. My 162 is running great again. Tinman, if you ever want to throw one of your saws on the dyno let me know. I’d be honored to be able to test one of your power saws.
Nicely done! Seals are seriously the bane of my existence! Absolutely hate em! Like you said. Bring a bag of them just to get two in😉
Tinman , appreciate your efforts. I myself have benefited from your work on the 038. Got a s797 that will be going back together in a couple months , watching and learning.
Just like putting in pinion seals only small. Thanks man. Cheers
Very good information right there. As I watch the porting series videos it is finally or dimly light in my brain the understanding of it all. But one area that you talk about is the stroke, long versus short like the comparison of the 272 to the 372 Husqvarna’s. This is still pretty fuzzy in understanding how you determine a long or short stroke saws. That might be a good video to put together for use to learn about. Thanks again and you ROCK!
Thank you tinman for this amazing video. Was waiting for someone to make a crankseal video.
That is a great and detailed video Thanks TinMan for sharing your techniques with the world. I have always used a piece of plastic shim stock to get the seal up over the step on a shaft guess I never really thought of using aluminum pop can. I also apply a thin amount of shaffer's 219 Grease is a shaft and inside of the seal so that it never runs dry on initial rotation before it gets lubrication. Thanks again man keep up the good work my friend.
An arbor press is just a drillpress that doesn't spin. Change my mind
So putting a key stock In the chuck you now have an arbor press ?!? Ingenious man
Hey tinman if you pack the back side of the seal where the spring is with grease when you drive it in the grease will keep the spring in place.
Great video Tinman, wish I had found you before destroying two seals. Do you have a video on seal removal, that is my nemisis.
Another great vid! good tip with the soda can for the oil pump seal!! Thanks!
good video only thing i seen is consider swapping the motoseal for loctite 660 or 648.
Loved this video never could figure out how to replace a crank seal correctly till now😂👍 I love the way your chainsaws are stored behind you. Could you make a video on how you made it? Need one for my garage😎
Very nice info , and i thought from R&D i had some smarts nope . I stiil got my nice calibers
I agree; everything does take longer without the fancy tools!
THANK-YOU VERY MUCH SIR, STAY AWESOME !!
This video could not be better timed for me. But, I only bought 1. So here goes.... 😁
Update... Success. Flywheel side Stihl 026. Tapped it down flush with a flat washer similar to how you showed. Then the rest of the way with a socket. Pressure tested. Up and running. Thanks Tinman 👍🏻
Good job!!
Would it be possible to see you port a Stihl MS170 and switch it to an adjustable carb,1/4 Picco sprocket, bar, and chain?
You always give great advice Tinman your my go to guy for chainsaw advice 👍🏻
Thanks dave!!
Great vid on the seal install. Thanks t man
Good stuff, thanks Tinman!
This was an awesome build tinman! I got a question for ya...i just replaced the crank seals in a 268 that im putting a 272 top end on. They have put quite a bit of drag on the crank im worried it may be too much? You think they will loosen up when its ran for a few minutes or will it just damage them?
Righteous~ thank you!
Tks for sharing. I have a 2007 440 husky and starts fine when cold. I run it for 15-20 minutes and shut it off and it’s a real SOB to start again while warm or hot. Would this b crank seals ? Any input would help.
I want one them older husqys so bad there arnt ANY around here...basically...stihl and consumer grade rancher crap..and very little stihl, flea market in morning pray I find a gem, a 266 72 yeah....lol would make my day
Can you do a vid on how to check if the oiler pump is working?
kokanee beer cans work best for crankseal installation.🇨🇦👍
Which oil can I use to lubricate the crankshaft bearings? If car engine oil, than which Viscousity is recommnended?
How do Tin... out of interest would retaining compound not be better for round the seals maybe?... Good work though👍
Great video, where do I get the plastic seal installer?
Yep awesome vid awesome series ty Tinman.
evening Tinman. i hope you are having a good one.
Great info buddy! Thanks for sharing! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Learning buy watching! Thanks for the information
Do you happen to know how to replace the bar bolts on a 460 rancher chainsaw
Di tempat saya susah partsnya bos.. 👍👍👍 tahun berapa husqvarna 268 di rangkai?
If you were changing seals in a Stihl 193 could they be driven in, or does the crankcase have to be separated to seat the seals properly in the half shells?
In clamshells the case top and bottom have to be split to do seals .
Great informative how too there, thanks for all the tips n tricks👏👍
My saw reves out of control like a vacuum leak could it be these seals?
Alright, I dinkled a seal doing the bottom end on my 395 today. That was my last genuine husky seals. I have a few farmertecs sitting around. Anyone have a experience with them working?
Hey Tinman, Thanks for the great tips. Did you make that seal driver or is it from a kit?
Awesome video Tinnman
Would you be interested in porting a brand new 562xp , I just won’t to make it a little more powerful not nothing crazy just a good running saw , the saw has never been fired up
Thx!
Might be first today. Be safe and be careful
Look carefully Before crossing the street too !
Great tips! Thanks
Awesome video !!!!
Great tips! Thanks bud!
Oh beer cans work too buuuuuudy lol, was in lowes earlier and glanced at what looked like a 2xx, 66? 51? L shaped brake same clutch cover and handle bar and shape and an actual bolt on clyinder head I but the back top cover looks makita dolmar round, makes me want to buy one and just set free 46ccs of several decades of saw technology being reintroduced as a "hobby-pro" line, like a mine 266 or 72 whatever, same thing, same oil pump cover...same everythin, look into it..might be able to have some real cheap fun and if its built like an actual 2xx model husqy...only 200 bucks brand new...sounds more fun that a 50cc xtorqe....ask me how I know(450 rancher givennto me broke(new) and put 40$ ignition and golden) but yeah something a little easier to get real power out of...it ain't with the x torque vs non...imho
do you have a video that shows how to time or 268
Hey buddy, Is there a big bore top end kit from hyway comaptiable for the husky 66? Have a parts 61 to salvage some parts from thankfully 😊
61/66 are the same chassis as the 266. 272 top end will go right on with the right intake block and screws/gaskets. The 66 cover should clear the 272 top end too
@@82f100swb currently short the top over, got a couple terd saws. I seem to pick those up alot 😂
@@ChippyOutdoors I currently have about 20 short blocks 61/266 and 630 and 4 or 5 covers... Have 2 268's that need covers too... LOL
@@82f100swb ya I ended buying 16 parts saws kept a couple and actually my ported stihl 026 was from that lot, but a ripped apart unit with case, crank and piston is a 66, picked up a 61 from work from the scrap pile that should have almost everything I need from recoil, carb, clutch cover and so on just missing top cover. But this thing could be beyond salvaging anything from it not positive yet that'll be a winter project. Once I get things setup since my move and caught up on other saws
@@ChippyOutdoors I made a trade for a couple dozen saws a while back and two truckloads later I brought home 105... Making trip 3 in the am... LOL
How does one go about getting a saw tickled by the tinman here in northern Manitoba
Great Info Tinman. Thanks.
Mr. Clint Mornin
Hello tinman..great vid as usual
so is that the same set up as my 181 ???
I thought you need oil to lube them . I guess not?
Great tips again:)
Thank you!!
Gotta do this to my 041av
Hey Tinman what kind of oil seals do you use? Have a great day
Lots of good information
Good to see ya oldtimer!
Where can you get the rubber seal bumper ?
На хускварна 266 se можно установить поршень от 268, будет работать?
Yes it works just fine.
@@tinmanssaws цилиндр 266 se а поршень 268 метеор будет работать?
I’m literally building this same saw, where do you source parts?
Wolf creek saw shop
Friends. How about just saying guys? Lol
I wish I had seen this one before the email 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 sorry bud.
You could make your own tools with your lathe
Hello everyone
Can you freeze the seal to make it easier to install?
Kkkkkkkkkkkkkk
+++++++++++
Tin Man what’s your email ?