Watching these videos ....I feel like you’re the Dad I never had. Thanks for all the very informative info for those of us that are clueless yet want to play with motors.
Picked a 7120 head from a yard Jeep several years ago with the intent of head swapping the cracked head on my 258. Ended up losing that option and it found a home on my stroker. Had it magnafluxed before I did about 48 solid hours of work to it and it's GREAT. XJs make the best donors and you get out of them what you put into them. Good luck.
Thank you for the update, I just bought my second Jeep (early TJ) I know It's been sitting for a few years and doesn't turn over. So I'm glad there are vids like this
I must admit I have been a V8 guy all my life and don't really care for anything else with only one or 2 exceptions the Jeep 4.0 is one of them I have owned several of them and I have a bit of on obsession for jeeps in general and specifically for the 4.0 it is a fantastic engine that I just can't stop obsessing over
First time on ur channel not for this video For the “best sbc Heads” and I had to subscribe I really appreciate all of your knowledge and the way you teach and explain throughly thank you.
Yea tell me about it. $650 in parts and she is running again. Unfortunately, may need to rebuild it cause of lower oil pressure. Not bad pressure, just not where I want it. 40 PSI at about 2200 RPM fully warmed and 12-18 hot idle. Never done a rebuild but my grandfather has unlimited knowledge. Unfortunately it would be a budget rebuild.
i love your vids mate . i like your no nonsense ford chev hemi fan dosnt matter what kind of motor you got if its built properly its a excellent motor ps can you do a de stroked 400 chev with 350 crank and rods i think its a 377 vid ..big fan from New Zealand
Thank you very much for the 4.0 build lessons. I am in the middle of a rebuild myself and find the material highly educational. 3 questions: Did you find a head? And are you going to do a video on assembling the head and finish the rebuild? You can't leave me hanging, can you? Regards, Arjan
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks for replying that fast!! Hope you will start very soon with assembling the head because I am a Noob at this and really trust your guidance! Thanks in advance. Regards Arjan from the Netherlands
did u find one? i got one laying around here somwhere pulled off a 4.0 inline 6. 2002 cherokee. id be willing to part with it cheap just to get to watch the end of this lol
The earlier ones aren't known for cracking, however, this limits the kind of Jeep variant where they can be used. From what I have read: 1. A 331 casting head that also has a "TUPY" casting mark on it. 2. A new casting from Clearwater Cylinder Head which has more metal where the original 331 casting would crack. 3. If you are really wealthy and doing a high performance build, Edelbrock and Hesco make an aluminum head that outflows any OEM Jeep head and might have a better combustion chamber design.
Hello, I have a 2000 jeep cherokee. There are two problems with it. It seams to have a misfire and the crank shaft sensor fails very often. Do you have an idea what the problem is? Do you think it could be the ECU? I am in Tucson. Thank you.
You can get a new cast, beefier, cast iron head that is CNC machined for just south of $600, Google it. Put one on the fresh rebuild 4.0 for my 2K GC WJ 4x4 (Select trac), and it bolted right on; everything fit perfect. The interesting thing was the engine had 287,000 miles, used no oil to speak of, and ran great, but Transmission was getting flakey so since they're easier to pull as an assembly, I decided to do both as I had already redone the whole chassis with nice long arm lift setup. The engine on teardown was in excellent shape; I could have run her another 100K or more miles, to be honest. But of course I've owned her since new, she's my sweetheart, so she's always had the best of care, and a prominent place in the garage. I went ahead and bored, new pistons, nice cam, sweet throttle body, it's pretty, machined from an aluminum billet with ball bearings and seals ($400, ouch, but hey, right?), and you can see it with the new cool air intake kit. Also added the Banks TorqueTube header with flow Maser exhaust. Took her to the dunes near Galveston a week ago and ate everybody's lunch, and sounds so sweet too; almost like a 5.0 Mustang coming off Idle, nice rumble. I like my Jeeps, they last, are fun to work on, and I also have a sweet 97 4x4 XJ Cherokee I'm redoing in a most meticulous manner. It gets a stroker six.
Myvintageiron7512 I use a tank that I got from NAPA, that attaches where the radiator cap goes. I keep the tank full, while the engine comes up to operating temperature. Is that the proper way of burping the 4.0 engine?
I would really like contact info, I just bought a 89 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4.0 and need some engine work done. Not as tight of a budget as that guy I only payed $50 bucks for the Jeep.
I have a 351c head(D1AE GA) I picked up for free, it has a crack in it but in an area that looks easy to fix, is it worth fixing? I only have one head, I am a pretty good welder and wanted to see if it is possible. Thank you I enjoy your videos
Just a question; I do some welding, and though I know cast iron is friggin' hard to weld (like, give a 50% success rate even under perfect conditions), would grinding out a crack like that and trying to weld it be completely out of the question? Only things I can think of is trying to preheat a hunk of metal that big might just cause it to crack in other places. My line of thought is usually "If it's junk, anyway, there's nothing to lose!"
you can weld cast iron but it has to be furnace welded the entire head needs to be heated till it's glowing red and the weld it there is only one shop in my town that does it they want $300.00 + to weld one crack
Pretty steep, especially when an old-time welder has told me that welding on cast iron, like I said, even under perfect conditions produce only a 50% success rate. One of these days, I'll have cause to try welding cast iron. Good luck with your search!
Was wondering how much your customer spent on this budget build/rebuild? I’m looking into it. My 96 cherokee needs a rebuild and I’m trying to get a ballpark? Thanks in advance
I always heard those 4.0 L jeep motors were junk ... that must be why. How many Cadillac motors do you see with the busted head bolts where you have to drill the block and put the studs in to keep it from blowing head bolts and head gaskets? Great videos , learn something new with every one I watch ...
I purchased intake and exhaust valves from melling the exhaust were from Argentina and the intake were from China so I sent them back. Turns out sealed power is made in South Africa and crown is made in Israel do we have a valve manufacture in the United States for the jeep
Has anyone ever made a lt1 Head fit a 70 sbc? Found a lt1 car with afr 227 lt1 heads and woundering how to make them work on a 70s block. I’ve heard about wending the two cooling holes. But what else needs to be done?
It is my understanding that the 1992-1997 LT1 has reverse flow cooling, meaning that engine coolant enters the cylinder head first, then it enters the block. Nearly every other SBC has coolant flow into the block first, then the cylinder head. This is why cylinder heads built for the 1992-1997 LT1 are sold with a disclaimer saying that this head will not fit a different SBC.
they do have power bleeders for them what I do is jam a garden hose down the top radiator hose for 5 minutes or so not the official procedure but it does work then add antifreeze to the radiator
If the bolt pattern is the same, then that means there are probably more than one business that builds an SBC to T56 adapter. I know I have read about them in Summit and Jegs catalogs.
Lift the front of the Jeep with a jack or ramps or park on as steep of an incline you can find. Intermittently get the revs up, just a little, like maybe 1500-2000. Keep it topped off with coolant and keep some in the overflow, up to the line. I squeeze the big upper hose to get some coolant moving through it as I'm doing all of this. I also have a pinhole drilled through the upper flange of the thermostat to allow air to pass through, but not much coolant. I think the little bit of coolant that does get through is good, because you want the thermostat to be able to open at 195 and let air escape and coolant circulate. I don't think it opens properly if it is in the air bubble instead of the hot coolant. Know that your temp gauge is in working order and monitor it. It needs to get above 195, but don't let it go over 210. If it does, let it cool down awhile and start again. I also use a spill-proof funnel, you can get them for like $10-$20. They are worth every penny, especially if you have one of these engines. It's a giant funnel with a radiator cap attachment so you get a tight seal between the funnel and neck of the radiator. It gets the coolant entering the system up above the air bubble in the engine and helps force it out. Just keep coolant in the funnel until no more air bubbles come up into it, as you occasionally give a brief rev. These funnels come with assorted filler neck adapters, a lid and a stopper so you can neatly decouple and dispose of the coolant still in the funnel. This is what works for me. My way is probably overkill, but I've had the air bubble cause my head to crack, leading me to pull a used head, have it rebuilt and install it in my driveway. I don't want to do it twice, so I'm really careful to get all the air out any time I crack the system open. I think one of the most important things to remember is to never run just water with no antifreeze. These engines are happiest running just shy of 210 degrees while water boils at 212. You need the antifreeze to raise the boiling point of the water in case it gets up above 212. If the water boils, the pressure from the steam will blow your lower radiator hose right off the water pump.
Dam dude I wish I had your knowledge on car engine's I just spent 7 thousand for a engine replacement 4.7 V8 for a jeep commander Both heads were cracked So for a bit more money just got a rebuilt engine I went with Jasper engines Your thoughts on jasper
Watching these videos ....I feel like you’re the Dad I never had.
Thanks for all the very informative info for those of us that are clueless yet want to play with motors.
Picked a 7120 head from a yard Jeep several years ago with the intent of head swapping the cracked head on my 258. Ended up losing that option and it found a home on my stroker. Had it magnafluxed before I did about 48 solid hours of work to it and it's GREAT. XJs make the best donors and you get out of them what you put into them. Good luck.
Thank you for the update, I just bought my second Jeep (early TJ)
I know It's been sitting for a few years and doesn't turn over. So I'm glad there are vids like this
I must admit I have been a V8 guy all my life and don't really care for anything else with only one or 2 exceptions the Jeep 4.0 is one of them I have owned several of them and I have a bit of on obsession for jeeps in general and specifically for the 4.0 it is a fantastic engine that I just can't stop obsessing over
Looking forward to the rest of the build. Ours has 225k and running strong.
mines at 272k and running strong too i plan to buy a spare block and rebuild it so when it blows up i have a new one ready to go
So what ever happened? Didn't end up finishing it?
Did you ever find another head for the 4.0? Would love to see it finished
YES
First time on ur channel not for this video
For the “best sbc Heads” and I had to subscribe I really appreciate all of your knowledge and the way you teach and explain throughly thank you.
Thank you for the update, hope you find your head.
Dang that showed up quick. Never saw the magnaflux done.
Awesome vids, extremely informative. looking forward to the next vid, I'm looking to rebuild my 4.2.
More please good sir...picture Tiny Tim in almost any a Christmas Carol version
awesome videos
Clearwater Cylinder Head makes a new cast iron head casting. I think they cost $300-$400 depending on type.
Is this motor done? Anymore videos on it coming?
The 0331 casting is notorious for cracking.
Yea tell me about it. $650 in parts and she is running again. Unfortunately, may need to rebuild it cause of lower oil pressure. Not bad pressure, just not where I want it. 40 PSI at about 2200 RPM fully warmed and 12-18 hot idle. Never done a rebuild but my grandfather has unlimited knowledge. Unfortunately it would be a budget rebuild.
well that sucks, but koodos to you for finding it now!!! great vid! good to know!
So there is a burp procedure when flushing the engine? What is it.
i love your vids mate . i like your no nonsense ford chev hemi fan dosnt matter what kind of motor you got if its built properly its a excellent motor ps can you do a de stroked 400 chev with 350 crank and rods i think its a 377 vid ..big fan from New Zealand
Love your videos. Any chance you could organize them in play list? They seam all mixed up and random. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much for the 4.0 build lessons. I am in the middle of a rebuild myself and find the material highly educational. 3 questions: Did you find a head? And are you going to do a video on assembling the head and finish the rebuild? You can't leave me hanging, can you? Regards, Arjan
Yes I have a head I have just been so busy I havent gotten back to it it's gona happen at some point
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks for replying that fast!! Hope you will start very soon with assembling the head because I am a Noob at this and really trust your guidance! Thanks in advance. Regards Arjan from the Netherlands
I like your vids. Very informative. Good job.
edelbrock makes a super nice aluminum head for that Jeep! I did hear your customer was on a budget so maybe out of his price range !
yeah and it's overpriced junk lol
I did find a new casting but it's not in the budget
Well it's been 11 months any luck?
did u find one? i got one laying around here somwhere pulled off a 4.0 inline 6. 2002 cherokee. id be willing to part with it cheap just to get to watch the end of this lol
They didnt make a 2002 Cherokee...
@@danhambrick6331 yes they did. its a 2002 jeep grand cherokee laredo
@@zacharywileman468 that'ts not a Cherokee lol
Any experience/thoughts with the new production heavy duty cast iron head offered for the 4.0?
I remember from long ago of people talking of brazing a cracked head. I think that they used bronze rod.
96-99 4.0 heads with 0630 casting # amc forum guys say flow better than earlier year heads and are not prone to cracking.
What is the casting #? Some 4.0 heads were thin and prone to crack. Earlier and later casting #s were better.
in the last video you said you vac leak tested and it was perfect, how could it be if this head is cracked between the valve seats?
Learn something new everyday. Any heads for the 4.0 that aren't prone to cracking?
The earlier ones aren't known for cracking, however, this limits the kind of Jeep variant where they can be used. From what I have read:
1. A 331 casting head that also has a "TUPY" casting mark on it.
2. A new casting from Clearwater Cylinder Head which has more metal where the original 331 casting would crack.
3. If you are really wealthy and doing a high performance build, Edelbrock and Hesco make an aluminum head that outflows any OEM Jeep head and might have a better combustion chamber design.
And people are complaining about the ending to Game Of Thrones....
lol
Hello, I have a 2000 jeep cherokee. There are two problems with it. It seams to have a misfire and the crank shaft sensor fails very often. Do you have an idea what the problem is? Do you think it could be the ECU? I am in Tucson. Thank you.
Was there a follow on video for this 4.0 build? I can't find it.
NOT YET.
I heard Edelbrock was making a head for this engine now.
$1500 for them kinda high went to edelbrock 3 years ago and they wanted $3000 for them at the time
Yes, an aluminum head, but it's not a simple bolt on for certain years.
You can get a new cast, beefier, cast iron head that is CNC machined for just south of $600, Google it. Put one on the fresh rebuild 4.0 for my 2K GC WJ 4x4 (Select trac), and it bolted right on; everything fit perfect. The interesting thing was the engine had 287,000 miles, used no oil to speak of, and ran great, but Transmission was getting flakey so since they're easier to pull as an assembly, I decided to do both as I had already redone the whole chassis with nice long arm lift setup. The engine on teardown was in excellent shape; I could have run her another 100K or more miles, to be honest. But of course I've owned her since new, she's my sweetheart, so she's always had the best of care, and a prominent place in the garage. I went ahead and bored, new pistons, nice cam, sweet throttle body, it's pretty, machined from an aluminum billet with ball bearings and seals ($400, ouch, but hey, right?), and you can see it with the new cool air intake kit. Also added the Banks TorqueTube header with flow Maser exhaust. Took her to the dunes near Galveston a week ago and ate everybody's lunch, and sounds so sweet too; almost like a 5.0 Mustang coming off Idle, nice rumble. I like my Jeeps, they last, are fun to work on, and I also have a sweet 97 4x4 XJ Cherokee I'm redoing in a most meticulous manner. It gets a stroker six.
It just requires you run a 91-06 intake and a 91-98 exhaust or aftermarket exhaust.
just buy a junkyard head it will be fine, cleetus mcfarland does it all the time.
Myvintageiron7512 I use a tank that I got from NAPA, that attaches where the radiator cap goes. I keep the tank full, while the engine comes up to operating temperature. Is that the proper way of burping the 4.0 engine?
Isn't the stock head on the 4.0 cast iron??
YES
I would really like contact info, I just bought a 89 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4.0 and need some engine work done. Not as tight of a budget as that guy I only payed $50 bucks for the Jeep.
I have a 351c head(D1AE GA) I picked up for free, it has a crack in it but in an area that looks easy to fix, is it worth fixing? I only have one head, I am a pretty good welder and wanted to see if it is possible. Thank you I enjoy your videos
It needs to be furnace welded
Hey man great series of videos! Very informative! I bet the customer did not like the news Cylinder Head... Will you keep building this?
Yes I actually have a good head for this engine now and will be finishing the build
Myvintageiron7512 awesome!! Looking forward to it! Cheers from Panama
Just a question; I do some welding, and though I know cast iron is friggin' hard to weld (like, give a 50% success rate even under perfect conditions), would grinding out a crack like that and trying to weld it be completely out of the question? Only things I can think of is trying to preheat a hunk of metal that big might just cause it to crack in other places. My line of thought is usually "If it's junk, anyway, there's nothing to lose!"
you can weld cast iron but it has to be furnace welded the entire head needs to be heated till it's glowing red and the weld it there is only one shop in my town that does it they want $300.00 + to weld one crack
Pretty steep, especially when an old-time welder has told me that welding on cast iron, like I said, even under perfect conditions produce only a 50% success rate. One of these days, I'll have cause to try welding cast iron. Good luck with your search!
Clearwater in Florida has rebuilt heads for $400. 0630s and TUPY 3110S
Was wondering how much your customer spent on this budget build/rebuild? I’m looking into it. My 96 cherokee needs a rebuild and I’m trying to get a ballpark? Thanks in advance
around 2K
Thank you. How much of that was parts vs labor?
Was that with a new head?
Most the time a person can remove a heater hose fill with coolant until coolant comes out done.
I always heard those 4.0 L jeep motors were junk ... that must be why. How many Cadillac motors do you see with the busted head bolts where you have to drill the block and put the studs in to keep it from blowing head bolts and head gaskets? Great videos , learn something new with every one I watch ...
The North star 4.6L V-8 and the Ht4100
A 4.0L Jeep engine will likely outlast you.....
What came of the build?? Find a new head? Finish the 4.0?
I have a couple laying around if your in Pa.
I purchased intake and exhaust valves from melling the exhaust were from Argentina and the intake were from China so I sent them back. Turns out sealed power is made in South Africa and crown is made in Israel do we have a valve manufacture in the United States for the jeep
probably not for jeep or any other engine
Heads are easy to find,,,,,,,First rule of rebuilding, always check the components before you buy parts....
Cracked head. Call Gary has Lott's of Engine parts located in Mit
What’s the name of your shop or contact info? I would like to order a master rebuild kit for a 289 67 mustang. Thanks!
Has anyone ever made a lt1 Head fit a 70 sbc? Found a lt1 car with afr 227 lt1 heads and woundering how to make them work on a 70s block. I’ve heard about wending the two cooling holes. But what else needs to be done?
It is my understanding that the 1992-1997 LT1 has reverse flow cooling, meaning that engine coolant enters the cylinder head first, then it enters the block. Nearly every other SBC has coolant flow into the block first, then the cylinder head. This is why cylinder heads built for the 1992-1997 LT1 are sold with a disclaimer saying that this head will not fit a different SBC.
Where did you get that rebuild kit that you used? I am doing the same build. Thank you
I buy at EPWI but they do not sell to the public I can get you one if you want message me on facebook at myvintageiron7512
Update?
What about an edelbrock
very common and pron to happen on the 0331 heads
How hot would it have to overheat to crack the head?
Pretty hot it will usually peg the Gage
What's the casting number on this head? Is it the 0331?
I bet it is
What is the procedure for flushing the 4.0? I just left the coolant sensor out and let burp out.
they do have power bleeders for them what I do is jam a garden hose down the top radiator hose for 5 minutes or so not the official procedure but it does work then add antifreeze to the radiator
I never use tap-water for coolant. Always distilled and ethyl-glycol antifreeze.
Very bizarre question but do u know anybody who makes a bell housing for a t56 to a 400 sbc ?
400 small block has the same bell housing as a 350
If the bolt pattern is the same, then that means there are probably more than one business that builds an SBC to T56 adapter. I know I have read about them in Summit and Jegs catalogs.
What is the burping procedure then for Jeep 4.0 so I don’t cause my own problem. Any idea?
I would like to know as well. Maybe drive up a steep hill in 4 low.
on mine i do it on a slope and turn heater core on and off seems to work for me
Lift the front of the Jeep with a jack or ramps or park on as steep of an incline you can find. Intermittently get the revs up, just a little, like maybe 1500-2000. Keep it topped off with coolant and keep some in the overflow, up to the line. I squeeze the big upper hose to get some coolant moving through it as I'm doing all of this. I also have a pinhole drilled through the upper flange of the thermostat to allow air to pass through, but not much coolant. I think the little bit of coolant that does get through is good, because you want the thermostat to be able to open at 195 and let air escape and coolant circulate. I don't think it opens properly if it is in the air bubble instead of the hot coolant. Know that your temp gauge is in working order and monitor it. It needs to get above 195, but don't let it go over 210. If it does, let it cool down awhile and start again. I also use a spill-proof funnel, you can get them for like $10-$20. They are worth every penny, especially if you have one of these engines. It's a giant funnel with a radiator cap attachment so you get a tight seal between the funnel and neck of the radiator. It gets the coolant entering the system up above the air bubble in the engine and helps force it out. Just keep coolant in the funnel until no more air bubbles come up into it, as you occasionally give a brief rev. These funnels come with assorted filler neck adapters, a lid and a stopper so you can neatly decouple and dispose of the coolant still in the funnel. This is what works for me. My way is probably overkill, but I've had the air bubble cause my head to crack, leading me to pull a used head, have it rebuilt and install it in my driveway. I don't want to do it twice, so I'm really careful to get all the air out any time I crack the system open. I think one of the most important things to remember is to never run just water with no antifreeze. These engines are happiest running just shy of 210 degrees while water boils at 212. You need the antifreeze to raise the boiling point of the water in case it gets up above 212. If the water boils, the pressure from the steam will blow your lower radiator hose right off the water pump.
Ah the good old breadvan motor
What ever happened to this engine?
No time to finish it yet but has a replacement head.
✨🏆✨
I guess you couldn't find a head??? - No follow-up??
Dam dude I wish I had your knowledge on car engine's
I just spent 7 thousand for a engine replacement 4.7 V8 for a jeep commander
Both heads were cracked
So for a bit more money just got a rebuilt engine
I went with Jasper engines
Your thoughts on jasper
You never did finish this rebuild, that sucks
Gorilla Glue will fix that ....Cracked Head
Bummer , rad flushing over rated :)