Thanks for this great video. I’m building my own 258 block / 4.0 head engine, this is my first engine build in 20 years. I learned allot from your videos.
You don't need to degree your cam? I know you matched the dots and theoretically it should be correct. I know on v8's it can be off by 3 degree sometimes.
wondering if those oil pan studs will be a problem later. You will have to use an allen wrench topside to get the pan nuts off and back on..... whenever you drop the pan.
I really like this video series. It's been extremely helpful on my 2001 stroker build. I have one question. Why does Comp Cams deny that the 3219 timing set works on these vehicles? Their website has it for a V6 motor. I want to use it on my 2001 XJ stroker, but need to verify fitment...
This build is fantastic, the best of its kind on TH-cam. You've definitely inspired me to do the same thing. How does this compare with some of the stroker crate engines available for the xj? Better quality parts I imagine?
WILSON! Thank you. It’s definitely got some pricier parts that will make it run smooth. I don’t see getting rid of this Jeep ever so I splurged but if I was just building a trail machine that I might trade or sell I wouldn’t spend that kind of money. Crate motors are kinda scary not knowing who built it so buying from a reputable company like 505 would be a safe way to go. You can always buy a short block and then add on as parts enter the budget for the next 2 weeks (26 buying cycles/yr) the coating on the rings is a debatable subject as far as dirt driving vs cleaner street air. Might not have a choice with a crate motor. Compression ratio for pump gas. Cooling system = aluminum parts. Lots of stuff to weigh. If I grenade this motor I have so many awesome parts inside to salvage that I’ll be looking good for building another. If you do build, don’t cheap out on wearable parts/gaskets. You’ll feel more secure 100 miles from nowhere.
small question on the oil slinger. since your running a double roller chain theres no keyway for the slinger to sit up against. I see on mine that it just sits and can freely spin and float around. Is yours the same? Is the slinger really even needed?
was your oil pump pick up tube to short because of the aftermarket pan or because of the M81? I'm running a stock pan so I'm assuming I'm ok.. I'll have to measure it out as well.
might be a stupid question but I just started into working on cars with my uncle and he is a gear head and knows his stuff when it comes to jeeps and I want to upgrade just like yours but was wondering if all of this would work on a 99 xj I know it might be a stupid question but I just wanted to make sure and I love your videos it totally helps with me learning thank you so so much for uploading
Trenton Gregg everything is pretty much the same except that 99 uses a distributor instead of a coil pack. The 99 has a better, thicker head than a 2000 and later 4.0. Thanks for watching.
About how much more HP and Toque will that Performer head get you? I'm a 19 year old that has always been into working on cars, but jeeps are special because I was never afraid to tear into em'. They're actually the reason i'll be going to school to be a tech. anyways, i'm thinking about rebuilding my 4.0l, I don't want to do a stroker, but I was thinking about whether the performer head was worth the $1700. Plus a few other upgrades. Your videos are awesome too! when I rebuild my 4.0l ill follow these vids. Thanks man!!!
My_Name_Is_Chef Thank you. If you are rebuilding it and just want a little more power, save your money. For the price of the head you can upgrade the cam, fuel injectors, oil pump, and pay for all bearings, machine work, ect. Also consider reusing the head bolts. If you're not increasing compression, save the money. It also makes it easier to change a head gasket (in vehicle) without head studs. -Kevin
Nice video. Probably the best jeep video in terms of being informative on the build parts numbers. Do you mind sharing a link to those valve cover and oil pan stainless stud kits? Could not find any online for the 4.0L. Thank you.
I picked up a 5-0201 part number from this video (10:48) where you held it towards the camera. However that number does not provide an online link to a store/ manufacturer. My only hope lies on your purchase history :D
Darkartz1 I have to drive now but I will look in a little while the only one that I found it says the seller on eBay is away on vacation or something like that
I was actually able to track down the manufacturer of those studs 5-0201 and 5-0802. I have below included the link for the products. Might help someone else. (Scroll all the way down for oil pan kits) www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/valve_cover_stud_kits.htm Thanks for showing those stud labels on camera :D
David Rodriguez just because it looks cool. JK, I've had a problem with another 4.0 with the same pump sucking air on cold startup because the oil doesn't make it back down soon enough. Negative temps. Also thought of off camber wheeling. One or two extra quarts really help with temps too.
Alfonso Solis I installed an oil slinger under the cover on the crank. That’s not necessary. The older ones came with one so I just installed it to help with lubrication.
I only ask because Im building a stroker and want to use that same SCAT crank but have heard when using a serp belt set up a spacer is needed for the balancer
Oh, there is a washer in there too. It’s a really thick one. It just goes under the crank bolt. Some people apply RTV to it to keep oil from pushing through the crank key and out the front. I’ve heard about using the spacer for the pulley but only when using an OEM crank out of a 4.2. I didn’t use one on mine and no issues with alignment or timing cover to balancer clearance.
kingmabb not sure yet. I think minus the head/roller rockers/valves etc. somewhere in the $3,000 range using cleaned up factory stuff (head, intake, valve cover...) keeping it basic you could get it down around 2K easily depending on machine shop labor (boring/honing/lapping/cam bearings....)
Dave Correira well I’m certainly not an engine builder, just a guy who beats the shit out of my equipment. I figured I’m not going to send the cam back and it’s close enough if the timing marks line up and it runs on pump gas. I now realize that torquing the studs is wrong as several people have commented. Hopefully anyone who’s building a motor reads the comments and learns from everyone involved. My build started as an attempt at a powerful off road tractor but ended up as a torque monster that has lots of expensive parts which I feel will make it through the first thermonuclear meltdown and into my gen two shade tree 4.0/4.2 hybrid. IMO it has too much power for dirt and rocks and I’m too old to play in mud but it crushes the snow with in 4H locked taching it. The two things I will do differently next go-round is grind the rods to clear the girdle and use a roller cam-lifter. Thanks for the comments. I appreciate the input, and hopefully everyone watching reads through the comments for input and corrections. Just a month ago a viewer made me aware that I had incorrectly gapped my top piston rings....20 something thousand views later. My point is thank you for the comments and thanks for watching.
@@kevefox You're obviously just fine without it, but I have run into problems with garage builds like this that would have been avoided if I had used a degree wheel....that being said they used to be kinda pricey and a lot of people couldn't justify the cost. I think mine was somewhere in the $100 range when I got it, but Comp has a decent looking 9" one on amazon for about $20 now that's a bit easier. One thing I will advise is when torquing you should always apply counter force at 90 degrees of your applied torque with the opposite hand. This guy's video shows him doing it and he says to do it, but doesn't explain why: th-cam.com/video/1qrAMIpQ9Ts/w-d-xo.html (right around 2:45 and again at 4:05 -- he says something like holding the pivot in place, but you get the idea by watching) IIRC the reason is that as you are applying torque on a fastener you are also applying a force that tends to bend the driver down instead of applying full torque to the fastener. It's not likely TOO critical as the engineers usually build in a bit of slop in those values, but as you get to higher torques (head bolts, etc) you will notice a difference even in just the way the wrench "feels". It is also very much more likely to slip off the fastener, especially if your doing this kind of stuff on a car or boat or some other harsh close quarters environment where corrosion is also a large concern. Newer multipoint fasteners make slippage a bit less of a worry, but I still say one should always apply some counter force to be safe.
Thanks for this great video. I’m building my own 258 block / 4.0 head engine, this is my first engine build in 20 years. I learned allot from your videos.
Thanks Arthur, I really appreciate the comment. I hope it goes smooth and runs well.
Jesus dude, you really know your shit. Thanks for putting this out there.
You don't need to degree your cam?
I know you matched the dots and theoretically it should be correct. I know on v8's it can be off by 3 degree sometimes.
wondering if those oil pan studs will be a problem later. You will have to use an allen wrench topside to get the pan nuts off and back on..... whenever you drop the pan.
I don’t think so. They’ll thread right out like a bolt is the nut is stuck to them.
Great video, that jeep is gonna be badass!!!
8:53, the raw nature of the builder
lovin every second of it!!!!!
I really like this video series. It's been extremely helpful on my 2001 stroker build. I have one question. Why does Comp Cams deny that the 3219 timing set works on these vehicles? Their website has it for a V6 motor. I want to use it on my 2001 XJ stroker, but need to verify fitment...
www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-3219/applications
Summit says it’s for the 4.2 Inline 6 (L6)
This build is fantastic, the best of its kind on TH-cam. You've definitely inspired me to do the same thing. How does this compare with some of the stroker crate engines available for the xj? Better quality parts I imagine?
WILSON! Thank you. It’s definitely got some pricier parts that will make it run smooth. I don’t see getting rid of this Jeep ever so I splurged but if I was just building a trail machine that I might trade or sell I wouldn’t spend that kind of money. Crate motors are kinda scary not knowing who built it so buying from a reputable company like 505 would be a safe way to go. You can always buy a short block and then add on as parts enter the budget for the next 2 weeks (26 buying cycles/yr) the coating on the rings is a debatable subject as far as dirt driving vs cleaner street air. Might not have a choice with a crate motor. Compression ratio for pump gas. Cooling system = aluminum parts. Lots of stuff to weigh. If I grenade this motor I have so many awesome parts inside to salvage that I’ll be looking good for building another. If you do build, don’t cheap out on wearable parts/gaskets. You’ll feel more secure 100 miles from nowhere.
Very interesting, thank you!
small question on the oil slinger. since your running a double roller chain theres no keyway for the slinger to sit up against. I see on mine that it just sits and can freely spin and float around. Is yours the same? Is the slinger really even needed?
Low Tide no, on the new timing sets no slinger is needed.
was your oil pump pick up tube to short because of the aftermarket pan or because of the M81? I'm running a stock pan so I'm assuming I'm ok.. I'll have to measure it out as well.
Kevin N I think it was too short because the 4.2 L has a different pan. It possibly was meant for a Car application as well
might be a stupid question but I just started into working on cars with my uncle and he is a gear head and knows his stuff when it comes to jeeps and I want to upgrade just like yours but was wondering if all of this would work on a 99 xj I know it might be a stupid question but I just wanted to make sure and I love your videos it totally helps with me learning thank you so so much for uploading
Trenton Gregg everything is pretty much the same except that 99 uses a distributor instead of a coil pack. The 99 has a better, thicker head than a 2000 and later 4.0. Thanks for watching.
Hahaha, I laughed at: "The dishes are done"...I say that shit all the time and most people have no idea WTF it's from...
That’s awesome! 😁
I noticed that when you didn't put the rubber chain tensioner in the cover. any reason other than they seem to fall out?
Patrick Tavares no, I've never used a tensioner on a 4.0 platform.
About how much more HP and Toque will that Performer head get you? I'm a 19 year old that has always been into working on cars, but jeeps are special because I was never afraid to tear into em'. They're actually the reason i'll be going to school to be a tech. anyways, i'm thinking about rebuilding my 4.0l, I don't want to do a stroker, but I was thinking about whether the performer head was worth the $1700. Plus a few other upgrades. Your videos are awesome too! when I rebuild my 4.0l ill follow these vids. Thanks man!!!
My_Name_Is_Chef
Thank you. If you are rebuilding it and just want a little more power, save your money. For the price of the head you can upgrade the cam, fuel injectors, oil pump, and pay for all bearings, machine work, ect. Also consider reusing the head bolts. If you're not increasing compression, save the money. It also makes it easier to change a head gasket (in vehicle) without head studs.
-Kevin
Nice video. Probably the best jeep video in terms of being informative on the build parts numbers.
Do you mind sharing a link to those valve cover and oil pan stainless stud kits? Could not find any online for the 4.0L. Thank you.
Darkartz1 thanks, let me look real quick
I picked up a 5-0201 part number from this video (10:48) where you held it towards the camera. However that number does not provide an online link to a store/ manufacturer. My only hope lies on your purchase history :D
Darkartz1 I have to drive now but I will look in a little while the only one that I found it says the seller on eBay is away on vacation or something like that
I was actually able to track down the manufacturer of those studs 5-0201 and 5-0802.
I have below included the link for the products. Might help someone else. (Scroll all the way down for oil pan kits)
www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/valve_cover_stud_kits.htm
Thanks for showing those stud labels on camera :D
Darkartz1 here are the valve cover studs but the seller is away.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F261007169545
where did you get the timing set with the hole for the comp cam, currently assembling my stroker but i got an OE timing set that wont fit my cam
Fleck Offroad SummitRacing
Your the fuckin man great videos buddy I'm thoroughly enthralled.
Thank you!
Why the moroso oil pan? It seems pretty expensive just to hold an extra quart or more
David Rodriguez just because it looks cool. JK, I've had a problem with another 4.0 with the same pump sucking air on cold startup because the oil doesn't make it back down soon enough. Negative temps. Also thought of off camber wheeling. One or two extra quarts really help with temps too.
You actually don't have to torque studs. Just the nut that goes on them.
Jake Stone you're correct.
Great video very informative.Thanks
F Harris thank you, and thank you for watching.
Maybe I missed you explaining it but why the balancer spacer?
Alfonso Solis I installed an oil slinger under the cover on the crank. That’s not necessary. The older ones came with one so I just installed it to help with lubrication.
I ment the spacer that came with that kit, or is all you used from the kit was the slinger?
I only ask because Im building a stroker and want to use that same SCAT crank but have heard when using a serp belt set up a spacer is needed for the balancer
Oh, there is a washer in there too. It’s a really thick one. It just goes under the crank bolt. Some people apply RTV to it to keep oil from pushing through the crank key and out the front. I’ve heard about using the spacer for the pulley but only when using an OEM crank out of a 4.2. I didn’t use one on mine and no issues with alignment or timing cover to balancer clearance.
Ok thank you, great set of videos by the way
How much were these parts? My 4.0 is reaching 240,000 and its something I'm looking to do for her eventually.
kingmabb not sure yet. I think minus the head/roller rockers/valves etc. somewhere in the $3,000 range using cleaned up factory stuff (head, intake, valve cover...) keeping it basic you could get it down around 2K easily depending on machine shop labor (boring/honing/lapping/cam bearings....)
With how detailed I am then for peace of mind I would definitely go with the amount of work you did. Great job. Thank you for getting back on that.
thanks dude
you should have used a degree wheel to st the cam properly
Dave Correira Explain how I deg wheel would have given a different result?
degree the cam makes sure you are at top dead center, the cam is ground according to the cam card, it's common practice for engine builders
Dave Correira well I’m certainly not an engine builder, just a guy who beats the shit out of my equipment. I figured I’m not going to send the cam back and it’s close enough if the timing marks line up and it runs on pump gas. I now realize that torquing the studs is wrong as several people have commented. Hopefully anyone who’s building a motor reads the comments and learns from everyone involved. My build started as an attempt at a powerful off road tractor but ended up as a torque monster that has lots of expensive parts which I feel will make it through the first thermonuclear meltdown and into my gen two shade tree 4.0/4.2 hybrid. IMO it has too much power for dirt and rocks and I’m too old to play in mud but it crushes the snow with in 4H locked taching it. The two things I will do differently next go-round is grind the rods to clear the girdle and use a roller cam-lifter. Thanks for the comments. I appreciate the input, and hopefully everyone watching reads through the comments for input and corrections. Just a month ago a viewer made me aware that I had incorrectly gapped my top piston rings....20 something thousand views later. My point is thank you for the comments and thanks for watching.
deg wheel is for ocd anal people. new cams have 4 deg advance ground in for a reason.
@@kevefox You're obviously just fine without it, but I have run into problems with garage builds like this that would have been avoided if I had used a degree wheel....that being said they used to be kinda pricey and a lot of people couldn't justify the cost. I think mine was somewhere in the $100 range when I got it, but Comp has a decent looking 9" one on amazon for about $20 now that's a bit easier. One thing I will advise is when torquing you should always apply counter force at 90 degrees of your applied torque with the opposite hand. This guy's video shows him doing it and he says to do it, but doesn't explain why: th-cam.com/video/1qrAMIpQ9Ts/w-d-xo.html (right around 2:45 and again at 4:05 -- he says something like holding the pivot in place, but you get the idea by watching)
IIRC the reason is that as you are applying torque on a fastener you are also applying a force that tends to bend the driver down instead of applying full torque to the fastener. It's not likely TOO critical as the engineers usually build in a bit of slop in those values, but as you get to higher torques (head bolts, etc) you will notice a difference even in just the way the wrench "feels". It is also very much more likely to slip off the fastener, especially if your doing this kind of stuff on a car or boat or some other harsh close quarters environment where corrosion is also a large concern. Newer multipoint fasteners make slippage a bit less of a worry, but I still say one should always apply some counter force to be safe.
Hi