I really appreciate this video. I have removed my VRO pump and replacing with the standard pump. I couldn't figure out what to do with the line coming out of the block, until I saw your video. I will plug it up and complete my project tonight and see how she runs.
My Evinrude/Johnson OEM fuel pump came without the gasket or bolts, so had to order them. The bolts are 10-24 1 3/4 stainless pan head. The gasket is pretty specific, so if you are going to order it, you might as well order the bolts as well.
Hey thanks for the video! I have an'89 Johnson 110 and had to have a new power head put on because the VRO was over oiling and eventually caused so much carbon lifting of the rings it ruined the previous power head. Also had Marina put a standard fuel pump on so I could just premix. Anyways the engine has never ran smoothly since the new power head.I figured my Carbs needed rebuilding as they leak down real bad when tilting engine. So today after taking the carbs off the intake I see a hose connected to the block / intake that isn't connected to anything else. Yep just laying there hidden under the bottom carb sucking air into the block! I immediately assumed it was a pulse source for the old VRO pump but it was hard to tell by parts drawings. Your video confirmed my hunch. My idle has been terrible since the new power head and fuel pump conversion and I now think this is the culprit along with the old leaking gaskets on the carbs. So hopefully when my carb rebuild kits come in, I will have good news to report. I'm probably going to just plug off he pulse hose like you did. Thanks again!
Wow, yeah running the enigine with that port open is going to create a lean condition for just that cylinder! Hopefully once you get the carbs back on an plug that hose it will run great. I also have two video on the carb rebuild if that helps, th-cam.com/video/uOLwz2NZSMU/w-d-xo.html is the first one and th-cam.com/video/WbgLOQVZNHs/w-d-xo.html is the second one for the idle jet
When you broke the manifold I thought omg at least he’s honest and put that in his video also the brass manifold you created is clever also got me thinking they have these in the HVAC world and refrigeration world too. Something solid with less breaks would be better no chances of a leak and fire. I’m not trying to scare you just want to help and not criticize so please don’t take offense. I’ve seen boats burn to the water line before. Great video and stay safe fellow boaters.
Your feedback is welcome and gratefully accepted. The manifold is my response to "how much do they want for that thing?" reaction lol. I will probably put an oem one on it were I to sell the motor.
Jose's Extreme DIY just keep a eye on it these engines shake so much that it could loosen up and leak. Hate to see the newly restored boat burn. Also I think if you looked in granger online you might find one for a few bucks. I’ve seen them coming off compressors for refrigerators that are used for stores.
Jose's Extreme DIY hey I was looking for the screws for the fuel pump let anyone know that True Value hardware has them they are 10-24 and however long you need stainless. For 59 cents. For the 2 inch. What length did you use?
@@unsaltedlife5998 I I actually bought those screws as OEM and can't remember the length, I think they were about 2 inches. Here's a link to the part if that helps. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417, it shows it as being approximately 4 3/4" in length
Thanks for taking the time to put up this video. I just finished rebuilding my 1988 90hp Johnson. At the very end of the build I broke that same @#$%# fuel line manifold but remembered seeing this video so I'm using yours as an example. Much appreciated!!!
@ExtremeDIYGuy you have to plug it!? What did you plug it with? Just orderd my pump and hardware but did not get a plug.. damn! Great video by the way! Thanks
I just acquired a boat with an Evinrude V4 120 with the VRO setup and should I run into problems, this video will help me convert to just the pump. Great job on the custom manifold and love the colored racing fuel lines!
This may have been previously stated but with that type of fuel pump you don't need to add an inline filter as there is a cleanable screen inside beneath that center knurled bolt/screw at the inlet port. Thanks for the video.
SO far so good. To be honest though, I have not mounted the engine on my whaler, I'm still working on restoring the hull (and the weather is not cooperating).
Thanks for the reply. I just wanted you to know that I completed my repair today. The exact changes you made, but I purchase the OEM brass manifold for about $50 from an online distributor. The engine has never run better and the fuel filter is excellent from what I can tell. Thanks again and I really appreciate your work.
Hey Jose, Thanks for trying to renew the links, but maybe it is on my end because I still cannot access those links. I am very interested in trying this repair myself though.
Try this link to my Amazon affiliate storefront, the fuel pump I used is the Sierra 18-7352 Fuel Pump www.amazon.com/shop/josesextremediy?listId=349RH73ZVZIJS
I don't know a lot about boats but will be taking this on I have a question So behind the carburetors there's a black box guessing it's an air intake what's the gasket between that and the carbs called so that I can replace it thanks in advance!!
I think its called and intake manifold gasket. I would suggest checking with an online parts supplier for your particular engine. They have parts diagrams so you can get the right part number for what you need.
Another informative video Jose , I enjoy your channel a lot I'm getting ready to do the same thing on my 70 horse Johnson I was wondering what size hoses you're using for the carbs and from the solenoid looking around I seem to be getting a lot of different information just curious what you're using there I also like the racing hose that's pretty cool Thank you sir.
I put the following links for the hoses I used, hope this helps Parts List (Amazon Affiliate): Primer to Carb: amzn.to/3CC4MKh Manifold to Carb: amzn.to/30NWBgI Fuel Filter: amzn.to/3CC55op Fuel Pump: amzn.to/3x9NLWV
@@ExtremeDIYGuy alright cool that's exactly what I just had sent to my house it looked pretty close to what you were showing in the video so I went for it thanks man I appreciate your help and all the knowledge you share.
I have a 1993 johnson 70hp 2 stroke. I want to take out vro to eliminate issues if it fails. Question is do I need to put a new fuel pump in? If I'm just going to pre mix it?
Great video and blog post. I am trying to access the fuel manifold parts list but it doesn't show anything. Is it possible to throw up the links? TY in advance
hate to be a bother, but is there a part # for the complete Fuel Pump Assembly.. I bought an abused 1997 Four Winns Fling Turbojet, original 115hp OMC engine blown and has been replaced with 'another' that I am still trying to positively identify.. I need to replace the head gaskets, hoping to find a number on the heads to reference the correct gasket.. will that be good enough do you think?
Him not a bother at all. The Fuel pump for this engine is OMC # 0438556, it does not come with a gasket which is part # 0303615. I would go with an aftermarket part as there is a significant cost difference. As far as the engine head, there is usually a small circular plate on top of the block about the size of a quarter. The markings on that may help identify the engine. The best place to find part numbers is www.marineengine.com. I buy parts from them as well.
thank you, engine is only running now off small tank with primer bulb.. excited to see what it will do.. want to make it into fishing boat, good for shallows.. call it The Swamp Fling
Oh wow, I just checked out your channel and yes, in the same spirit. We even both have a whitish goatee, except you have more hair than I do lol. Thanks for the props!
You don't have to mount it on the engine though. It is easier by far if you mount it on a flat plate in place of the VRO and no need to plug the impulse hose because it is used..
Hey ,your videos are very helpful ! I have a 1990 Johnson 70 horse and I've changed the fuel lines but where do you get those red and blue fuel lines that you use and what are the sizes I've actually used 5/32 and 1/16
SHe starts right up and runs decent once warmed up. SHe still has a minor miss that I havent gotten around to looking at but is usable as is. I'll get that done in the next month or two and probably post a video on diagnosing misses. I'm still working on the whaler interior and hull so probably wont have the motor mounted until Spring 2020
Nice video, thank you. Good to know, there is a right place of the regular pump. Anyway if there is not this place, you can use the 3 lines regular pump and have to connecting to there the third hose. Am I right?
I'm not 100% sure of what you are describing but I don't think it will work. There is no way that I know of to attach the impulse line hose (from the original pump) to a replacement pump, unless it's another VRO pump that takes the impulse through a hose. I hope that helped.
Hey Jose, I just tried your link for a parts list for this project, and I could not find any information. It looks like the list is blank. Could you help me out with a new list as I have had it with the costs of taking my motor in to get serviced and would like to try this project on my own. Thanks!
Is the air silencer the black flat box at the front that the VRO/fuel pump was mounted to..?! When the VRO unit came off it, it had those rubber grommets that held it in, did you plug it..?!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank you because I had saw other videos and what they were saying was you could pretty much just plug the hose up and do other things but it really sounded like a hard job and didn’t seem right
lee ham , nice job an vid , try an help me with this , new carb kits , vro kit , still spits gas out of the top carb , idles up then down , then starts spitting gas out top carb thanks
I agree that ethanol can definitely gum things up. I've also heard that rebuilt VRO's dont work right more often than not. I prefer pre-mix on these older engines and rather than just disabling the VRO, thought it would make more sense to take it off. I still have the old one though and may take a crack at rebuilding it.
Thanks Jose for your video. Do you know at what psi this pump pumps at? I used oem 438556 and its pumping at 2 psi. Seems high and I'm flooding out after 2 hours of running. I checked all the usual suspects, carb float etc. I'm guessing my pump is too strong. Thanks!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Thanks! I also wanted to mention in case you are still having "a miss" like you mentioned in other comments, you might try removing the fuel filter since the new pump actually has a built in screen filter (per schematics) unlike the VRO2. So you might be restricting flow with double filter. Mine is a 1988 Evinrude (I believe that is what you said yours was). That said, double check! You probably already knew that and know more than I do, but figured I'd pass it along.
Hey Jose, thanks for the informative video. I have a 1985 Johnson 140hp with a VRO that has been working as only a fuel pump for quite some time (bolt in oil reservoir and alarm ables disconnected). The other day i had to pull the input fuel line out and ripped the nipple with it.. i want to change to a direct fuel pump, will the process be much the same as what you have demonstrated? thanks for any help!
Doing the exact same thing on the exact same motor right now….the little brass Mille coming out of the bottom of the block behind the carb it’s not connected to anything in your video and it’s not on mine either…do you know what it is and where it goes and what I should do with it
That's part of the flame arrestor setup. Normally there is a hose connected to it that (if I remember correctly) goes to the airbox, outboard carbs typically spit back some fuel, the nipple is supposed to suck it back into the engine.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I'm running a Johnson fifty twin I seen fifty to one but wanted to have a safety build in so was going to go forty to one thanks for the reply
Hi. Very good video. I have a Johnson 60hp vro 2 cylinder year 1985. So it is very similar to yours. Is the part number for the pump really 438559? It looks in pictures to have 3 nozzles. Yours seems to have just two. Could the right part number be 438556?
Thanks for catching that! The correct part number is indeed 438556. I would encourage anyone to double check part numbers. Marineengine.com is an excellent resource for that. Thanks again! I corrected that on the website with the sierra version of the fuel pump.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy i have a 1990 60hp envinrude that i took out the VRO and oiler and converted to fuel pump. i have 3 cyl and do i keep the pulse limiter hooked up to new fuel pump? mine has 3 lines off fuel pump. i have it hooked up that way but runs like crap, hard start and doesn't idle well, it also has lean fuel (blueish) coming out out #2,3 carbs. I don't know if i need the pulse limiter since that is what drove the VRO correct? do i cap the line off pump and limiter?
My apologies, I looked back through my notes and found that I actually used OEM bolts for these. The aftermarket SS bolts I ordered were for another fix I did on the engine. If it helps, the OMC part# is 0314417. marineengine.com has them for $2.42 ea. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417 Although I would say that if ordering from them, I would order any other parts you might need to offset the cost of shipping
@@dannybaker6627 I looked back through my notes and found that I actually used OEM bolts for these. The aftermarket SS bolts I ordered were for another fix I did on the engine. If it helps, the OMC part# is 0314417. marineengine.com has them for $2.42 ea. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417 Although I would say that if ordering from them, I would order any other parts you might need to offset the cost of shipping
This video was very informative. I have a 50 hp evinrude. Do I have to replace vro if I just disconnect the vro? Will the vro still pump fuel if I mix it myself. Or is it just best to do this complete fuel pump swap to ease my mind
Most folks just disable the VRO and run the fuel pump in it. I went ahead and took it out altogether although it's not really necessary. I looked at it as one less complex part to break down!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank you very much. I will probably go ahead and keep it in there, and in due time watch this video again and remove the vro. Thanks again
i have a 1990 60hp envinrude that i took out the VRO and oiler and converted to fuel pump. i have 3 cyl and do i keep the pulse limiter hooked up to new fuel pump? mine has 3 lines off fuel pump. i have it hooked up that way but runs like crap, hard start and doesn't idle well, it also has lean fuel (blueish) coming out out #2,3 carbs. I don't know if i need the pulse limiter since that is what drove the VRO correct? do i cap the line off pump and limiter?
@@ExtremeDIYGuy did you have to alter any throttle/fuel/idle settings..?! Mine now seems to cough and splutter and only seems to run continuously by pushing in the key to activate the primer solenoid. Lots of smoke, ha ha..
I have a 96 225 ocean pro. I premix for years. I suspect my 2nd VRO pump isn’t going bad. Is there a regular pump that I can use for this size motor? Part number or link?
I din't know offhand but if you go to marineengine.com, you should be able to look at the parts diagram and see if there was a non VRO version of that engine. That's how I found mine.
Hi, Excellent and informative video. I have a 50Hp Johnson (-93 I think) with external oil reservoir. So the VRO is a bit more complex where oil and fuel gets mixed in the VRO. I plan to do the replacement of the VRO when winter comes. I see there are two types of fuel pumps available, three nipple and two nipple pumps, yours is a two nipple version it seems. Could it bee that the three nipple pump actually is an oil/fuel mixing fuel pump? Do you mix oil into the fuel tank yourself (ratio 50:1 i think is correct) or do you have an external reservoir as I do? Thought I should ask since the video did not mention it. I actually think that mixing the oil and fuel into the same tank would remove a lot of worries as I may remove several sources for error and simplifying the whole system. Only concern I have with that is that my VRO have a small PCB with sensors sensing oil flow, and a three wires connecting it to the main board. I need to find a way to bypass this, probably by just connecting the sens-wire to pos or neg terminal, so that the engine doesn't get shut down due to "oil flow" failure..
I'll try to answer as best I can, the pump you mention with 3 ports does not do the mixing, the third port is for the impulse hose that was originally on the VRO unit. That 3 port pump is actually designed to replace the VRO pump and use the same bracket the VRO was on but IT DOES NOT mix the oil for you. YOu have to mix the oil your self at a 50:1 ration if you remove the VRO unit. There is a wire that needs to be disconnected on the VRO and that will disable the alarm feature.
I just purchase a 1984 Envirude 185 Hp and there was not fuel either the vro or the conversion one so I’m trying to know witch lines go where, I have 2 entrances in the block should I use one pulse line and close the other one ? , in this case Im trying to install the same pump you use but the 3 hoses connections
The VRO wires are connected with a plastic electrical plug. There is a small clip (on mine) on the plastic that you have to lift up to disconnect. Hope this helps.
If your talking about the impulse hose coming out of the engine to the VRO, absolutely clamp that off. If that is open your lower cylinder will lose compression on the backstroke, it's like having a defective reed.
Jose's Extreme DIY There’s a hose that comes from the air silencer base (box) and goes straight to the “fitting to lower pump”. I can show you a picture of it is there an email I can sent it too?
Jose's Extreme DIY Oh ok!! I was just watch your video on cleaning the reeds, and saw the hose I was referring to. What do you suggest I plug it with? Also how would that effect the engine if one didn’t plug that?? I ask because my outboard is having trouble holding idol. And tips (videos) on fixing that issue? Also great videos.
@@mental0883 Thanks! I would just stick a bolt in in it or if you still have an airbox leave it connected. I think that leaving it open will probably have the lower cylinder run a tad towards the lean side but am not 100% sure about that. Thanks!
Anyone know the size of the bolts that hold the non vro pump to the block once relocated? Having a hard time getting something appropriate and don't want to strip things out. Any help is appreciated.
Lol, thanks! The funny thing is I knew that. Been a fan of Edelbrock since I was a teen. I suppose I was cam scared or something. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
what size screws?
www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417
I really appreciate this video. I have removed my VRO pump and replacing with the standard pump. I couldn't figure out what to do with the line coming out of the block, until I saw your video. I will plug it up and complete my project tonight and see how she runs.
Thanks Ricky, I appreciate the positive feedback. I'm glad it was helpful. Let me know how ot goes when you fire it up again!
My Evinrude/Johnson OEM fuel pump came without the gasket or bolts, so had to order them. The bolts are 10-24 1 3/4 stainless pan head. The gasket is pretty specific, so if you are going to order it, you might as well order the bolts as well.
Hey thanks for the video! I have an'89 Johnson 110 and had to have a new power head put on because the VRO was over oiling and eventually caused so much carbon lifting of the rings it ruined the previous power head. Also had Marina put a standard fuel pump on so I could just premix. Anyways the engine has never ran smoothly since the new power head.I figured my Carbs needed rebuilding as they leak down real bad when tilting engine. So today after taking the carbs off the intake I see a hose connected to the block / intake that isn't connected to anything else. Yep just laying there hidden under the bottom carb sucking air into the block! I immediately assumed it was a pulse source for the old VRO pump but it was hard to tell by parts drawings. Your video confirmed my hunch. My idle has been terrible since the new power head and fuel pump conversion and I now think this is the culprit along with the old leaking gaskets on the carbs. So hopefully when my carb rebuild kits come in, I will have good news to report. I'm probably going to just plug off he pulse hose like you did. Thanks again!
Wow, yeah running the enigine with that port open is going to create a lean condition for just that cylinder! Hopefully once you get the carbs back on an plug that hose it will run great. I also have two video on the carb rebuild if that helps, th-cam.com/video/uOLwz2NZSMU/w-d-xo.html is the first one and th-cam.com/video/WbgLOQVZNHs/w-d-xo.html is the second one for the idle jet
When you broke the manifold I thought omg at least he’s honest and put that in his video also the brass manifold you created is clever also got me thinking they have these in the HVAC world and refrigeration world too. Something solid with less breaks would be better no chances of a leak and fire. I’m not trying to scare you just want to help and not criticize so please don’t take offense. I’ve seen boats burn to the water line before. Great video and stay safe fellow boaters.
Your feedback is welcome and gratefully accepted. The manifold is my response to "how much do they want for that thing?" reaction lol. I will probably put an oem one on it were I to sell the motor.
Jose's Extreme DIY just keep a eye on it these engines shake so much that it could loosen up and leak. Hate to see the newly restored boat burn. Also I think if you looked in granger online you might find one for a few bucks. I’ve seen them coming off compressors for refrigerators that are used for stores.
@@unsaltedlife5998 Cool, thanks for the heads up. I'll check Grainger!
Jose's Extreme DIY hey I was looking for the screws for the fuel pump let anyone know that True Value hardware has them they are 10-24 and however long you need stainless. For 59 cents. For the 2 inch. What length did you use?
@@unsaltedlife5998 I I actually bought those screws as OEM and can't remember the length, I think they were about 2 inches. Here's a link to the part if that helps. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417, it shows it as being approximately 4 3/4" in length
Amazing. Will need to do this to my new to my 40hp vro 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thanks!
Thanks for making this video. Going to try and fix up this old motor.!
Good luck! And Have fun!
Thanks for taking the time to put up this video. I just finished rebuilding my 1988 90hp Johnson. At the very end of the build I broke that same @#$%# fuel line manifold but remembered seeing this video so I'm using yours as an example. Much appreciated!!!
I know exactly how you felt when the manifold broke! I'm glad this was helpful to you!
Excellent explanation, especially the impulse port. I have a new OEM fuel pump on order to replace VRO on 90 hp, 1995 fat-4. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful to you!
Not all heros wear capes, you sir are a life saver
Wow, thank you! Best compliment ever!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy on the new fuel pump. Do u need to plug the hole on back of pump?
@@rusty6583 Yes you do or you will lose compression on that cylinder.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank u sir. Great video.
@ExtremeDIYGuy you have to plug it!? What did you plug it with? Just orderd my pump and hardware but did not get a plug.. damn! Great video by the way! Thanks
I just acquired a boat with an Evinrude V4 120 with the VRO setup and should I run into problems, this video will help me convert to just the pump. Great job on the custom manifold and love the colored racing fuel lines!
Thanks, I'm glad it's helpful! I couldn't just go stock with the fuel lines LOL!
This may have been previously stated but with that type of fuel pump you don't need to add an inline filter as there is a cleanable screen inside beneath that center knurled bolt/screw at the inlet port. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the info!
I love the video. I was just wondering how the new filter and fuel lines are holding up. Have a blessed day.
SO far so good. To be honest though, I have not mounted the engine on my whaler, I'm still working on restoring the hull (and the weather is not cooperating).
Thanks for the reply. I just wanted you to know that I completed my repair today. The exact changes you made, but I purchase the OEM brass manifold for about $50 from an online distributor. The engine has never run better and the fuel filter is excellent from what I can tell. Thanks again and I really appreciate your work.
@@frankfountain6029 Sounds good, to be honest, If I had found the brass one for $50 I probably would have just bought that! Good deal and thanks!
@@frankfountain6029 any chance you can let us know where you got that manifold?
Now what do we do With that existing brass nipple below the bottom carb?. I assume it’s to be left open? Great video! a ton of info here.
Leaving it open is fine, It did not affect how the engine ran at all.
Hey Jose,
Thanks for trying to renew the links, but maybe it is on my end because I still cannot access those links. I am very interested in trying this repair myself though.
Try this link to my Amazon affiliate storefront, the fuel pump I used is the Sierra 18-7352 Fuel Pump www.amazon.com/shop/josesextremediy?listId=349RH73ZVZIJS
I don't know a lot about boats but will be taking this on I have a question
So behind the carburetors there's a black box guessing it's an air intake what's the gasket between that and the carbs called so that I can replace it thanks in advance!!
I think its called and intake manifold gasket. I would suggest checking with an online parts supplier for your particular engine. They have parts diagrams so you can get the right part number for what you need.
Can you just cap the oil line on the outside and run premix, but have the inline pump by your tank
That's the standard way of doing it (you need to also disconnect the oil sensor). I thought I would take it up a notch in this video.
What size fittings for manifold ? Barb size and what’s the fittings called
Another informative video Jose , I enjoy your channel a lot I'm getting ready to do the same thing on my 70 horse Johnson I was wondering what size hoses you're using for the carbs and from the solenoid looking around I seem to be getting a lot of different information just curious what you're using there I also like the racing hose that's pretty cool Thank you sir.
I put the following links for the hoses I used, hope this helps
Parts List (Amazon Affiliate):
Primer to Carb: amzn.to/3CC4MKh
Manifold to Carb: amzn.to/30NWBgI
Fuel Filter: amzn.to/3CC55op
Fuel Pump: amzn.to/3x9NLWV
@@ExtremeDIYGuy alright cool that's exactly what I just had sent to my house it looked pretty close to what you were showing in the video so I went for it thanks man I appreciate your help and all the knowledge you share.
I have a 1993 johnson 70hp 2 stroke. I want to take out vro to eliminate issues if it fails.
Question is do I need to put a new fuel pump in? If I'm just going to pre mix it?
U know anything about delete vro on 2004 Yamaha outboard 70hp
I don't have one so can't do a video on that
@@ExtremeDIYGuyhey man you think you have a part number for the gas filter
Great video and blog post. I am trying to access the fuel manifold parts list but it doesn't show anything. Is it possible to throw up the links? TY in advance
Mike, thanks for the heads up. For anyone experiencing the same issue, disable your ad blocker and you should be able to see the list.
lee ham , thanks for the info , that should fix my problem ,thanks
Your welcome Lee
hate to be a bother, but is there a part # for the complete Fuel Pump Assembly.. I bought an abused 1997 Four Winns Fling Turbojet, original 115hp OMC engine blown and has been replaced with 'another' that I am still trying to positively identify.. I need to replace the head gaskets, hoping to find a number on the heads to reference the correct gasket.. will that be good enough do you think?
Him not a bother at all. The Fuel pump for this engine is OMC # 0438556, it does not come with a gasket which is part # 0303615. I would go with an aftermarket part as there is a significant cost difference. As far as the engine head, there is usually a small circular plate on top of the block about the size of a quarter. The markings on that may help identify the engine. The best place to find part numbers is www.marineengine.com. I buy parts from them as well.
thank you, engine is only running now off small tank with primer bulb.. excited to see what it will do.. want to make it into fishing boat, good for shallows.. call it The Swamp Fling
Good luck and happy fishing!
SO n the spirit of My Channel,,, Wonderful Video, thank U . kodibass
Oh wow, I just checked out your channel and yes, in the same spirit. We even both have a whitish goatee, except you have more hair than I do lol. Thanks for the props!
You don't have to mount it on the engine though. It is easier by far if you mount it on a flat plate in place of the VRO and no need to plug the impulse hose because it is used..
Huh? Of course you need to plug the impulse hose, and of course you need to mount the pump to impulse port. ✌️
The 3 nipple sure, the two nipple you absolutely have to mount it exactly as video states..
Hey ,your videos are very helpful ! I have a 1990 Johnson 70 horse and I've changed the fuel lines but where do you get those red and blue fuel lines that you use and what are the sizes I've actually used 5/32 and 1/16
I ordered those on Amazon. Hre's a link to all the parts I used, including hoses. bit.ly/35jyfJR
Great video. Any updates on the motor? How is she running?
SHe starts right up and runs decent once warmed up. SHe still has a minor miss that I havent gotten around to looking at but is usable as is. I'll get that done in the next month or two and probably post a video on diagnosing misses.
I'm still working on the whaler interior and hull so probably wont have the motor mounted until Spring 2020
Wondered what size the smaller primer hoses are? Can’t seem to order them so far. I have same engine same conversion.
It's 1/16" ID, here's an affiliate link to the ones I used, amzn.to/3uyshBZ
Nice video, thank you. Good to know, there is a right place of the regular pump. Anyway if there is not this place, you can use the 3 lines regular pump and have to connecting to there the third hose. Am I right?
I'm not 100% sure of what you are describing but I don't think it will work. There is no way that I know of to attach the impulse line hose (from the original pump) to a replacement pump, unless it's another VRO pump that takes the impulse through a hose. I hope that helped.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy my replacement pump has a pulse line on it. But where do you mount the pump to create pressure
Hey Jose,
I just tried your link for a parts list for this project, and I could not find any information. It looks like the list is blank. Could you help me out with a new list as I have had it with the costs of taking my motor in to get serviced and would like to try this project on my own.
Thanks!
Try it now. It looks like most of the Amazon links were broken. I've re-added them so you should see something now.
Great information thanks...Do you use the stock VRO air silencer or replace it with the non VRO air box??
I used the stock air box and tie wraps to secure the manifold
Is the air silencer the black flat box at the front that the VRO/fuel pump was mounted to..?!
When the VRO unit came off it, it had those rubber grommets that held it in, did you plug it..?!
So this is what you HAVE to do if you want to premix instead of the secondary oil tank?
Yes
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank you because I had saw other videos and what they were saying was you could pretty much just plug the hose up and do other things but it really sounded like a hard job and didn’t seem right
lee ham , nice job an vid , try an help me with this , new carb kits , vro kit , still spits gas out of the top carb , idles up then down , then starts spitting gas out top carb thanks
I would check the reeds, sounds like they aren't seating and the back pressure piston stroke blows the mix back out
Do these engines have a oil change besides the gear oil that needs to be changed ?
No oil change, on a 4 stroke, the oil is mixed into the fuel
Why not change the VRO diaphragms and service the unit, I have been told that Ethanol in the fuel has caused many problems, correct me if I am wrong.
I agree that ethanol can definitely gum things up. I've also heard that rebuilt VRO's dont work right more often than not. I prefer pre-mix on these older engines and rather than just disabling the VRO, thought it would make more sense to take it off. I still have the old one though and may take a crack at rebuilding it.
Why didn't you plug the nipple under the carbs on the crank case?
I plugged the hose that went to that nipple
@@ExtremeDIYGuy oh ok. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't needed
Thanks Jose for your video. Do you know at what psi this pump pumps at? I used oem 438556 and its pumping at 2 psi. Seems high and I'm flooding out after 2 hours of running. I checked all the usual suspects, carb float etc. I'm guessing my pump is too strong. Thanks!
G’day, did you stick with this pump..?!
I see this part numbered pump doesn’t have the 3rd barb..
lee ham its a 1989 40hp evinrude
Jose, nice video! What did you do on the old VRO plastic wire connection? Did you just wrap it electrical tape? Or do have to disable something?
Just wrapped it up in tape and tucked out out of the way.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy Thanks! I also wanted to mention in case you are still having "a miss" like you mentioned in other comments, you might try removing the fuel filter since the new pump actually has a built in screen filter (per schematics) unlike the VRO2. So you might be restricting flow with double filter.
Mine is a 1988 Evinrude (I believe that is what you said yours was). That said, double check! You probably already knew that and know more than I do, but figured I'd pass it along.
Hey Jose,
thanks for the informative video. I have a 1985 Johnson 140hp with a VRO that has been working as only a fuel pump for quite some time (bolt in oil reservoir and alarm ables disconnected). The other day i had to pull the input fuel line out and ripped the nipple with it.. i want to change to a direct fuel pump, will the process be much the same as what you have demonstrated?
thanks for any help!
Probably so, the functions stay pretty much the same across most size ranges.
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
only other thing i think it may be are the reeds? literally only thing i haven't replaced on this motor other than power head.
It's worth pulling them and inspecting. Have you checked your ignition system?
@@ExtremeDIYGuy yes all is new and checks out. i will look at reeds next
Doing the exact same thing on the exact same motor right now….the little brass Mille coming out of the bottom of the block behind the carb it’s not connected to anything in your video and it’s not on mine either…do you know what it is and where it goes and what I should do with it
Brass nipple*
That's part of the flame arrestor setup. Normally there is a hose connected to it that (if I remember correctly) goes to the airbox, outboard carbs typically spit back some fuel, the nipple is supposed to suck it back into the engine.
Can you tell us the size of the fuel lines from the manifold to the carbs/primer?
These are Amazon Affiliate Links:
Primer to Carb: amzn.to/3CC4MKh
Manifold to Carb: amzn.to/30NWBgI
I am unable to access your FULL PARTS LIST -- all the links do not connect -- are you able to fix this? Thanks
Try again
What's the correct fuel oil mix
I used 40:1 but really depends on the engine.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy I'm running a Johnson fifty twin I seen fifty to one but wanted to have a safety build in so was going to go forty to one thanks for the reply
Hi. Very good video. I have a Johnson 60hp vro 2 cylinder year 1985. So it is very similar to yours.
Is the part number for the pump really 438559? It looks in pictures to have 3 nozzles. Yours seems to have just two. Could the right part number be 438556?
Thanks for catching that! The correct part number is indeed 438556. I would encourage anyone to double check part numbers. Marineengine.com is an excellent resource for that. Thanks again! I corrected that on the website with the sierra version of the fuel pump.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy i have a 1990 60hp envinrude that i took out the VRO and oiler and converted to fuel pump. i have 3 cyl and do i keep the pulse limiter hooked up to new fuel pump? mine has 3 lines off fuel pump. i have it hooked up that way but runs like crap, hard start and doesn't idle well, it also has lean fuel (blueish) coming out out #2,3 carbs. I don't know if i need the pulse limiter since that is what drove the VRO correct? do i cap the line off pump and limiter?
@@jasonmiller7199 You should only need the impulse line directly from the block. Perhaps I misunderstood your question?
Nice video!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Do you know what size bolts those were to mount the fuel pump?
My apologies, I looked back through my notes and found that I actually used OEM bolts for these. The aftermarket SS bolts I ordered were for another fix I did on the engine. If it helps, the OMC part# is 0314417. marineengine.com has them for $2.42 ea. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417 Although I would say that if ordering from them, I would order any other parts you might need to offset the cost of shipping
Extreme DIY can you tell us the thread size and length?
@@dannybaker6627 I looked back through my notes and found that I actually used OEM bolts for these. The aftermarket SS bolts I ordered were for another fix I did on the engine. If it helps, the OMC part# is 0314417. marineengine.com has them for $2.42 ea. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417 Although I would say that if ordering from them, I would order any other parts you might need to offset the cost of shipping
what do you do with the wires from the VRO pump?
Just tape them off.
This video was very informative. I have a 50 hp evinrude. Do I have to replace vro if I just disconnect the vro? Will the vro still pump fuel if I mix it myself. Or is it just best to do this complete fuel pump swap to ease my mind
Most folks just disable the VRO and run the fuel pump in it. I went ahead and took it out altogether although it's not really necessary. I looked at it as one less complex part to break down!
@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank you very much. I will probably go ahead and keep it in there, and in due time watch this video again and remove the vro. Thanks again
@@briannall8028 You bet and your welcome!
i have a 1990 60hp envinrude that i took out the VRO and oiler and converted to fuel pump. i have 3 cyl and do i keep the pulse limiter hooked up to new fuel pump? mine has 3 lines off fuel pump. i have it hooked up that way but runs like crap, hard start and doesn't idle well, it also has lean fuel (blueish) coming out out #2,3 carbs. I don't know if i need the pulse limiter since that is what drove the VRO correct? do i cap the line off pump and limiter?
I would think you should cap of the impulse line that went to the CRO and use the impulse port on the block.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy i dont see that port on my block, i have watched 10 videos of these but i don't find mine, E60TLESM
i have a 1985 120 hp and i want to remove the vro. im unsure of what fuel pump to go with. Anyone mind pointing me in the right direction? tia
You should probably check marineengine.com. The parts lists there should give you some guidance.
Mine just blew up from the factory vro......
Exactly why i removed mine, sorry to hear about your motor.
How did it proform?
It performed well. Perhaps a bit better but hard to tell with an older outboard.
@@ExtremeDIYGuy did you have to alter any throttle/fuel/idle settings..?!
Mine now seems to cough and splutter and only seems to run continuously by pushing in the key to activate the primer solenoid.
Lots of smoke, ha ha..
I have a 96 225 ocean pro. I premix for years. I suspect my 2nd VRO pump isn’t going bad. Is there a regular pump that I can use for this size motor? Part number or link?
I din't know offhand but if you go to marineengine.com, you should be able to look at the parts diagram and see if there was a non VRO version of that engine. That's how I found mine.
Hi, Excellent and informative video. I have a 50Hp Johnson (-93 I think) with external oil reservoir. So the VRO is a bit more complex where oil and fuel gets mixed in the VRO. I plan to do the replacement of the VRO when winter comes. I see there are two types of fuel pumps available, three nipple and two nipple pumps, yours is a two nipple version it seems. Could it bee that the three nipple pump actually is an oil/fuel mixing fuel pump? Do you mix oil into the fuel tank yourself (ratio 50:1 i think is correct) or do you have an external reservoir as I do? Thought I should ask since the video did not mention it. I actually think that mixing the oil and fuel into the same tank would remove a lot of worries as I may remove several sources for error and simplifying the whole system. Only concern I have with that is that my VRO have a small PCB with sensors sensing oil flow, and a three wires connecting it to the main board. I need to find a way to bypass this, probably by just connecting the sens-wire to pos or neg terminal, so that the engine doesn't get shut down due to "oil flow" failure..
I'll try to answer as best I can, the pump you mention with 3 ports does not do the mixing, the third port is for the impulse hose that was originally on the VRO unit. That 3 port pump is actually designed to replace the VRO pump and use the same bracket the VRO was on but IT DOES NOT mix the oil for you. YOu have to mix the oil your self at a 50:1 ration if you remove the VRO unit. There is a wire that needs to be disconnected on the VRO and that will disable the alarm feature.
I just purchase a 1984 Envirude 185 Hp and there was not fuel either the vro or the conversion one so I’m trying to know witch lines go where, I have 2 entrances in the block should I use one pulse line and close the other one ? , in this case Im trying to install the same pump you use but the 3 hoses connections
What thread size and length stainless bolts did you use?
I don't have the size handy but here's a link to the bolts I used: www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417
For a guy that does not understand terms what is a VRO unit
Variable-Ratio Oiling system
Is ther a clip to release the vro wires? I'm trying to remove mine
The VRO wires are connected with a plastic electrical plug. There is a small clip (on mine) on the plastic that you have to lift up to disconnect. Hope this helps.
and one more question
is it normal my johnson take 2L gass in 10 minutes in normal mode
Not really sure but that does sound like a lot. What size motor is that?
I recently did what you did. But was wondering about the lower pump hose. Do you clamp that off or will it effect the idol issue I’m having?? Thanks
If your talking about the impulse hose coming out of the engine to the VRO, absolutely clamp that off. If that is open your lower cylinder will lose compression on the backstroke, it's like having a defective reed.
Jose's Extreme DIY
There’s a hose that comes from the air silencer base (box) and goes straight to the “fitting to lower pump”. I can show you a picture of it is there an email I can sent it too?
@@mental0883 That hose is to recycle gas that sprays or spills into the airbox from the carbs to the lower cylinder. I plugged min up.
Jose's Extreme DIY
Oh ok!! I was just watch your video on cleaning the reeds, and saw the hose I was referring to. What do you suggest I plug it with? Also how would that effect the engine if one didn’t plug that?? I ask because my outboard is having trouble holding idol. And tips (videos) on fixing that issue? Also great videos.
@@mental0883 Thanks! I would just stick a bolt in in it or if you still have an airbox leave it connected. I think that leaving it open will probably have the lower cylinder run a tad towards the lean side but am not 100% sure about that. Thanks!
Do you know the size for the fuel lines feeding the carbs. And the size for the nipples on the manifold. I have a 1989 70hp johnson with three carbs.
I used 3/16 ID from the manifold to the carbs, amzn.to/3e3urBb
Anyone know the size of the bolts that hold the non vro pump to the block once relocated? Having a hard time getting something appropriate and don't want to strip things out. Any help is appreciated.
Here's a link to the correct size bolts. www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0314417
10-24 1 3/4 pan head stainless steel
@10:10 in case you don't know how to pronounce edelbrock, just remember it rhymes with needlecock lol
Lol, thanks! The funny thing is I knew that. Been a fan of Edelbrock since I was a teen. I suppose I was cam scared or something. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.