#84 Making the ATTiny85 easier to program
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
- So you have your ATTiny85 all connected up and running your latest sketch. Great. Oh, not great? Something is not quite right but you can't put your finger on what is wrong. Have you debugged the code? Oh, I SEE - YOU CAN'T because you can't connect the ATTiny85 to the USB port of your Arduino IDE, right?
Wrong. It's very easy to get your Tiny connected up to your Arduino IDE (or, indeed, any other serial monitor) to display all those useful Serial.println statements to find out just what is happening. But there are more ways than one to skin a c-- erm, let's not say that, Benny is watching me type this! Suffice to say, there are some useful techniques over and above the obvious, so keep watching!
No sketch this week (as I'm demonstrating the method for ANY sketch) so it will be even easier than usual to implement this tip!
Send Only Software Serial Library Included on the GitHub repository, just download, unzip and use! Thanks to Nick Gammon (again).
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GITHUB Repository here - everything you need
github.com/RalphBacon/ATTiny8...
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I also talk about using physical Pin 1 (P5) as a standard GPIO pin instead of it being reserved as a RESET pin. And talk about it is all I do here because you will have to wait for the next video on exactly how to do it -- oops! Benny says Shhh, stop giving away the plot, so I will stay stumm until that video arrives!
If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, share it and if you're not already subscribed please do so :)
My channel is here:
/ ralphbacon
How can I remember this? Memory tip: "See" Ralph Bacon, geddit? - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I learnt more in the first half of this video than I have from all other ATTiny videos I watched in the last year combined. Bought some and haven’t yet got to migrating a project onto it but I have a project which needs to be ‘tiny’. Thank you for this vid
Glad to hear it, Skootaman! I've done a couple of other vids on the ATTiny85 (and even the Tiny13). Happy viewing!
This was a great video for me. I just started playing with the ATtiny , learning quite a bit here
When you get to the next video, Darrick, (about using the Tiny85's all six pins for GPIO) you'll need a fuse reset board, the PCB of which I still have. When you are ready for that, there are at least two videos you need to watch on the ATTiny85 before you will be!
Thanks for a very nice and useful tutorial.
You are most welcome Nils Skansar, I'm glad you like the video. Nice to hear from you.
Well earned thumbs up for that! Not only entertaining but tenacious too, you are so lucky to have Benny.
a couple of thoughts on SRAM: when the IDE reports the use of memory, it is reporting STATIC use of RAM. I.e that memory used by variables declared outside of the loop(), setup() and any functions you may have written oneself. Dynamic memory use (which also uses RAM) can only be assessed whilst the program is being run. The amount of dynamic memory goes up and down with each call to other functions. As each function called returns, the memory used goes back to what it was before it was called. This "temporary" use of memory is for the return address (so the function knows where to return to), the arguments needed by the function and any local variables declared within that function. This memory is "controlled" by the stack pointer in the MCU.
Now the above also applies to any libraries one might have included. All those methods need to use memory in a similar manner.
Ralph employed PROGMEM to store his static strings (the arguments to his serial.print() calls). This is an excellent method to conserve SRAM and should be used for ALL your static variable should be stored in progmem. This is done by using the keyword PROGMEM in the variables declaration.
The essence of what I am saying is: it is misleading to interpret the IDE's report of SRAM use as an estimate of ALL the RAM needs of your sketch. When that stack pointer steps into your declared variables, the MCU will crash.
Thanks for the thumbs up! And also for the SRAM info too. That's why, even if the IDE reports you have SRAM left over after a compile, you might be able to load the program but you can *still* run out of memory whilst the program is running. I've often inadvertently stomped all over my variables, got weird results then ka-boom (not literally)! Thanks for that great info, I'm sure others will now be all the wiser.
That's going to be so useful :)
Big thanks.
You are most welcome Benny Kleykens, I'm glad you like the video. Nice to hear from you.
I too also never had good luck finding a use for this chip. I want to like it, but I always grow the project out of it. The only thing I ever been able to make was pwm MOSFET control variable speed computer type fan with a thermistor input. I think you are right about the two classes of people, some of us,myself included, don't do simple well. It starts out "I just want this" and it ends up "yea, but wouldn't it be nice if it also did this..."...and there goes attiny.... We just don't a work the same, and that's fine.
Scope creep. Development creep. Call it what you want, James, it happens all the time. And if you start with a Tiny85 you quickly run out of pins. In which case you can just switch to a Nano or Uno without code modification. As you say, we work differently and that's just fine. Thanks for your comments, they probably reflect those of a lot of Arduinites out there.
Thanks Ralph, brilliant as usual. :-)
Thanks OE8PCK, I appreciate the post and the sentiment!
Just received my ATtinyshield kit in the mail. Great job. Thumbs way up M8...PEACE
That's great ElectronicWizard, hope you have fun constructing (and using) it!
Thank you for choosing my AttinyShield. With the help of Ralph's videos we can find many ways to use the Attiny85 in our projects. I hope you will like the shield :)
Thanks for the Video.
You're welcome!
great video Ralph, those little ftdi adapters and xtraputty are great for simulation and test!
They certainly are useful, Carl, and using one in this manner I show here has made it much easier to find all my (er, Benny's) bugs in the code. Glad you liked the video!
I hate to say this, but Benny is better at writing code than I am;> Like the video. I got 5 AT's today for a project. I think I heard you could use pin1 as analog input? I need 6 pins total. Thanks Ralph!
Hey Danny, do NOT despair. I've cracked the 6-pin GPIO pins on the ATTiny85 and a video is already scheduled on TH-cam within the month, so write your project and I'll show you how easy it is to use all 6 pins very soon! Stay tuned.
Use for attiny 85 - I wanted to build my own fish tank lights with a simple dimmer. 1 wire to the up button, 1 wire to the down adjust button, and 1 PWM wire to the mosfet. And I didn't have to buy some cheap crap dimmer, I purchased all components from Digikey which arrived in less than a week (not 1 or 2 months from china) and it didn't cost much. Components from Digikey, including LEDs, were less than $10.
Another use for the Attiny85, I needed to read data from the ADC and I needed 2 buttons plus output to an I2C oled display. Gang 2 buttons to 1 pin on the Attiny, read value from ADC, and output to the Oled.
There are plenty of projects that don't need a full sized Arduino or the like. Plus the size allows me to make my projects much smaller when it is desirable to take up less room. I make my own boards to plug the Attiny into and I don't have to wait for more than a month for items of questionable value....
And I use the Sparkfun tiny programmer, I dont have to dedicate a full sized Uno.
You sound like a fan of the ATTiny85, Ian, for all the good reasons you've stated. As I've said in both this and later videos on this subject, it seems people fall into two camps. Camp 1 is Why Bother, just use a Nano for very little extra cost, and Camp 2 is Use the Right Component for the Job. I'm just here to give my Arduinites the options (not just my own opinions) so thanks for giving us some Real World examples where the Tiny works well :)
I also use a Mega for my 3D printer and an UNO for my small CNC mill. Lets not forget the Attiny4313, 20 pin package, SPI, I2C, UART, 4PWM, but has low(ish) memory, but I find that this just forces me to be intelligent while writing my code. My Sparkfun Programmer can program all adruinos, it has the standard 6 pin connector that can plug into a regular arduino (UNO, Mega and the like), it has an onboard 8 pin socket for the 85 and I made a simple adapter with a 20 pin socket to program the 4313.
I personally enjoy tinkering with any of the microcontrollers. They are so simple to use and the smaller 85 or 4313 are cool because I can put a socket on my projects to remove and reprogram anytime. I only really use the larger boards for much more complex needs. I find reasons to use microcontrollers just to tinker. =)
Ian Ide sometimes having assortments/kits pays back, and it is worth the wait. Get some of this stuff:
www.futurlec.com/ValuePacks.shtml
That makes you build a project or prototype quickly, and cheap.
(Slow shipping tests your patience is virtue level ;)
Thanks for another interesting video.
Hey Maxx where you been? Great to hear from you again and I'm glad you liked the video.
I've been watching your videos and learning quite a bit. Just not been very vocal in the comments section.
I'm currently waiting for a microwave movement detector to arrive. I didn't even know they were available.
thank you for posting a very informative video. wondering why the /n in some print lines, instead of just println. not criticizing, just curious.
Good question! There are many ways to skin a cat (don't tell Benny) and you can either do a *println* or a *print* with the
(or \t for tab) built into the statement. If you look at the underlying code for *println* you will find that it adds: write("
"); to the string you are outputting.
hi ralph,
i have a problem
i want a servo motor to operate in 2 different speeds with 2 diffrent clicks on button
for example normal 120 degree rotation speed at single click and fast 120 degree rotation at double click using on off tactile switch using a cr123a battery.all these using a pcb or arduino in the most smallest space.is it possible?
Short answer: Yes. Anything is possible.
Long answer: build a sketch that detects single vs double clicks of a button using interrupts. Good start is video #19 th-cam.com/video/J9cDEef0IbQ/w-d-xo.html even though you won't be using a Rotary Encoder, just a button.
Once you know what type of click has been received then you can easily control the speed of a servo (build a separate sketch for that first to prove you know).
Benny says yes, you were correct the first time. His tests show the compiler does omit unused classes from the compiled binary. He says studys in his lab show when he write a small class with a fat analogue read or write in it compile it look at total, then remove reference to it and the result decreases! It works the save for functions too as you might expect.
Indeed, both you and Benny are correct inasmuch that the compiler is optimising and throws away code that nobody needs. Pity it didn't tell you which bits of code it was throwing away though, as you might have forgotten that you were not using something you had intended to use.
morning boss, if you have time in you busy schedule could you do a video on joining the attin85 with an esp01. ive made a lovely thermostatic zero crossing fan speed controller. and id love it to output its temp value to my iot platform. but they wont seem to talk to each other.
Given the lack of, well, all communication protocols on the Tiny85 (see my video th-cam.com/video/5bnXeHz06Ck/w-d-xo.html ) if you have ONE pin spare you can use the SoftwareSerial library and just send stuff out on a TX-style pin to the ESP. There was a port of this library by Nick Gammon IIRC that just had the 'send' part to save space:
github.com/nickgammon/SendOnlySoftwareSerial
I've tried it before and it works fine (as you would expect from the Guru of Arduino)!
The ESPxx just reads the data via the RX pin and you do with it what you want. As you are recording a temperature you probably will send a single byte (0-255 or -128 to +127 if you want to go below zero) to keep things really simple. Should be easy enough to prototype first. Any good?
@@RalphBacon i managed to get it working this morning ty. Ill make a pcb and ill send you a vid of it.
Good news, Paul, was this the way I suggested or another way?
I like using attiny85 for small projects. I made a small nightlight with pwm and a ldr. Three years ago I made my own programing shields. The arduino as isp has a reset pin. So I made my programer with a roto shield and I can program atmel328p or attiny 85 with it. I have the adaptors to program smd also. I added led and a neopixel to it. I always forget to add the cap to it so I soldered on on with a switch.
Sounds great, Deathshaker. You could share your design of the programming shield on Instructables, for example, if you so wished.
@@RalphBacon So many wires. I really should make it into a pcb. Also I guess I should make a video of it also. lolz
Hi Ralph, I cannot get the Arduino (V1.8.13, Dec2020) program to Verify correctly as it raises an error at ' SendOnlySoftwareSerial Serial(4); ' and then tells me 'exit status 1'. The reported error is a conflict with what they term 'A previous declaration ' TinySoftwareSerial Serial ' ' to be found deep within the AppData folder in what seems to be folders relevant to the ATTinyCore. I also note at the very end 'Invalid library found in C:\......\Documents\Arduino\libraries\XX: no headers files (.h) found in C:\.......\Documents\Arduino\libraries\XX ' which is untrue but could there be a second Library folder? Could this be relevant? I am not asking you to debug this for me, but has anyone else come across the same? I have removed all ATMEL Studio programming software but I recoginse there may be a few leftover files somewhere. I have successfully loaded the flashing LED code so the program, UNO and ATTiny85 work correctly. I thought about removing, shutting down and reinstalling Arduino. Are there other actions I could try since the Serial.print routine is very useful when programming? Anyway keep up the vidoes as they are informative, fun, and your style is perfect for me.
It sounds like you have a reference to a different SoftwareSerial library (as you mention TinySoftwareSerial.h, it sounds as though this has been optimised for the Tiny85 and included in whatever other libraries [or cores] you are using). eg Digistump or tinycore.
Remove your softwareSerial library and see what happens.
Remember too, that you cannot use the standard Serial.print - it must be whatever you have called the SoftwareSerial object, but there are bound to be examples with that library.
No need to reinstall Arduino unless you already know it's in a mess!
I have an ATtiny85 driving a 4 digit, 7 segment display and the display is showing the analog value of a 10k potentiometer. I also want to transmit that value to my Teensy 4.1 but I'm struggling with the code on the Teensy to receive it. forgive me if this comment is too specific but I'm stuck. Thank you for your time.
When you say "transmit" I'm hoping you mean along serial wires, probably the Tx/Rx pairs we use for updating the code? If so, the RX on one unit is connected to the TX of the other (same voltages on each, right?) and in the Teensy just use "if (Serial.available())..." and read it in as you would on the Arduino. On the ATTiny85 you would use Serial.Write to ensure you were sending bytes of data not formatted text.
@@RalphBacon Yes. TX/RX pairs. I will power the ATtiny via the Teensy so the voltages will be the same. There are NO videos on TH-cam that show how to transmit data created in the ATtiny85 into an Arduino or a Teensy to then be used in the code of the Arduino or Teensy. Could you be the first?
very interesting. I have done a lot with the attiny85 and it is a fun little chip. it is actually possible to use pb5 (pin 1) as say an analogue input without setting the fuse bit as long as you stay above some 2.3volt (I recite that value from memory but in fact it is the digital LOW level)
You're quite right Ed19601 (I really hope that's not a prisoner number, heh, heh), it can just about be made to work but it's all a bit flaky and not exactly robust (one millivolt too far and you've reset your chip!) which is why I went down this route. But you are totally correct that it can be made to work! Good to hear from you.
Ralph S Bacon i fully understand and you are right. I just didn't want to mess with the reset it, though I have a HV programmer. I made sure my voltage divider was such that I would never get below the reset value of 2.2volt. Anyway, great video
Ralph S Bacon and no.. not my prisoners number ;-)
Another great video, even with belts and braces. :) Thanks, Ralph!
Edit: Seriously, decoupling caps are never belts and braces. Switch mode power supplies are terribly noisy.
Hey, Robert, the English idioms never end! Yes, I tend to put low level caps (0.1 to 10µF) at strategic points in most of my circuits (ideally as close as you can get to the actual chip). My XMAS Tree project proved beyond doubt that what you say is true about switch-mode PSUs, some are really bad (some very good but not those cheap ones from the Far East where every component is costed). Good to hear from you Robert.
21:30 Why does the schematic show a =negative= 12V connection? The Github and every other page I see with a high voltage ATTiny resetter/programmer shows a =positive= 12V connection.
Well spotted. That would appear to be a mistake by the original designer, Wayne. It definitely needs a positive supply as shown in my schematic in video #87 (th-cam.com/video/yAT_TdD6nL0/w-d-xo.html ) and it's what I designed in my custom PCB (video #144 th-cam.com/video/bTTdvcnAOgg/w-d-xo.html ) for the resetter too!
@@RalphBacon Yes, I saw that your schematic shows it correctly, so anyone building this from there should get it correct.
When I was first learning electronics, it seemed odd to me that the schematic symbol seemed reversed from an actual cell. I think it has to do with the history of voltage cells being built with the positive side being the larger side. Maybe.
Kind of like how many 20-somethings don't know why the "save" icon looks like it does.
I am struggling with ATtiny85 reading from DHT11 (temp and hum sensor) 255% humidity and 0 deg C temp. Same when sensor is disconnected
That almost certainly means that you have not connected the sensor (correctly). I would recommend getting it working on an Arduino UNO or Nano first, then transferring (porting) the code to the ATTiny85 which can be a bit of a ***** to debug!
Also note that the DHT11 only goes down to ZERO centigrade; the DHT22 goes well below zero. Frankly I prefer the DS18b20 these days, you can get them in nice waterproof versions for just a couple of quid/dollars and the code is super simple.
Why do you need the 330R resistor connected to the button & reset? Can't you just connect the reset pin straight to ground via the button?
for added safety, if you programmed the P5 as an output, you might damage the attiny85 if pressed the reset button, best with resistor.
Roger, thanks!
Yup, that's why I did it (which I should have explained better). When pin 1 is a reset pin it's brought to +5v (internally) via a high value pull-up resistor (somewhere in the 25K - 40K ohm range). But to bring it low (that is, to reset the chip) it only needs to be brought 'near to' ground and the 330 ohm resistor is insignificant compared to the pull-up resistor. And, as cheetahkid said, it stops me short circuiting the pin when in GPIO mode. And you can't reset the chip then anyway except by pulling the plug!
thanks
You're welcome!
Hi Ralph S Bacon...
can u help me..how i program my attiny13 with hex file use arduino?
It's the same mechanism, VIvi. I've not used a ATTiny13 but the same principles apply. You might even be able to use the same helper PCB that I did.
In google search for: arduino attiny13 programming. There is an addon for Ardunio IDE to program Attiny13 chips. This is a small chip with only 1024 bytes program memory. Running at 4.8 or 9.6 MHz.
Sir!is this possible to blink 38khz and 19KHz for stereo encoder?Thanks
I'm not sure what you are asking here. You want to generate a 38/19 KHz signal or what?
@@RalphBacon Yes sir,i want to generate 38KHz to drive the carrier of L/R and 19KHz pilot light for stereo encoder
The Elliott 920B on the Nimrod ran the complete NavTac system on 8K of core memory! lol
Indeed, John, and they sent the man to the moon (ooh, how topical!) on NASA's 2Kb storage, I'm sure. OK, I just made that bit up. But I'm sure my phone has a gazillion more bytes of memory and run time capability to NASA in 1969! These days we get blase about storage availability but it's amazing what we can still do with limited memory (and overlays). What people who don't code don't understand is that the source code size has little to do with the final compiled code size. So a lot can (still) be done in just a few Kb.
@@RalphBacon LOL the Nimrod first flew in 1967! And don't forget memory bank switching, multiple banks of 640K.
I was getting that same error, 'Serial not declared' with an Atmega328 and I coud not for the life of me figure out what was going on with that until now. ha! I was using icsp. haha! that must have been why!
It's one of the downsides of using the ATTiny85, no Serial (other than SoftwareSerial library, which works great but uses at least one pin).
Can you make tutorial for attiny84
The Tiny84 is exactly the same as the Tiny85 except it has more GPIO pins. The Arduino IDE support it too. So if you know the Tiny85 you already know the ATTiny84.
Thats awesome! ...if it would work... i only get garbage as output on the serial monitor, even with 300 baud ;-(
It must be something to do with the baud rate on your Serial Monitor. It's got to be. I just don't see what else it could be! Have you tried a different chip (it is the ATTiny85 you're trying this with? I've not tried it on any other Tiny but it should work just the same). Definitely on the correct pins? I can't think what to suggest. Anyone else here have anything so say?
I made a baudrate iterator... i have to set up 10200 in the code for a 9600 baudrate working in the serialmonitor. Also 21500 for 19200, 48000 for 38400, 85000 for 57600, 315000 for 115200. Im still iterating for the 230400 baud rate... Any suggestions where this comes from?
Omfg it does not fit on to the chip with my other code..... argh!
Then i have to go back to my digital readout ;-(
If the baud rates don't match then the frequency of your Tiny is not correct; you'd better check it's correct otherwise all the timings will be out, such as millis(). Could be?
I have the same error. but then I programmed new ATtiny85, and it worked. don't know what is wrong with the old attiny82, but i did play around with the pin5 "fuse" setting .
Ralph thank you for another Attiny85 video and happy to see my AttinyShield once again to the test :)
With your permission, for anyone needing this programmer:
- The DIY version of AttinyShield can be found here: www.ebay.com/itm/221434907666
- The fully soldered version of AttinyShield can be found here: www.ebay.com/itm/221324819158
Since you made those modification I have to send you a new one for simple uploading.
Leaves Monday from Greece.
Thank you,
Themis.
Really, Themis? That would be most generous and I'd very much appreciate it! I have another ATTiny85 video scheduled which you will doubtless find interesting (I even give you a name check!). Probably be in about 3 weeks (as these things have to be prepared ahead of time). Thanks again!
Ralph the AttinyShield is already left Greece so you will have it in a few days.
It also has a special black version pcb :) I would love to see them on another video of your.
I am very honored you choose my shield as an Attiny programmer
and many of your viewers trusted you and me and tried it.
SO I am the one to thank you!
I will wait your new video - anything on Arduino is great.
Hi Amisail3,
Bought my shield from you sometime last year, been a very useful device. A neat design and good documentation.
Thank you Nick. Glad you found it usefull :)
Us Amurricans are - lessee - I think you call us 'thick'. We woulda thought "blu-tack" is blue. Your blu-tack is white. Does the UK only allow white blu-tack? Is blue blu-tack inferior or more expensive? So how does Julian Ilett get away with using blue blu-tack if it's illegal in the UK? Is he some sort of blu-tack black marketer? I would have imagined that black marketers only black-marketed blac-tack. Maybe black & blue blu-tack is also illegal here in the States. Maybe Silly Putty will work. If you have Silly Putty in the UK, in line with the logic disconnect of white blu-tack, is your UK Silly Putty not silly at all?
Shall I put the kettle on?
Oh... BTW, we have "biscuits and gravy" here in Amurrica. That would be really gross in the UK - putting gravy on your biscuits. And, geeze, what's up with 'chips'. Chips are thin slicings of potato or corn meal, fried or baked, sold at room temperature in bags. Or, they are programmable IC's, such as is the topic of this video, which mentions blu-tack that is white.
chip and chillies taste better
My Blu-tack is indeed blue, Are Jayem, but my video camera is quite colour-challenged and seems to only film it in white, so my Blu-Tack might appear white but is indeed blue. Interestingly, I have used actual White-Tack (made by another company) and I found that inferior (so inferior it should be made illegal) so switched back to Blu-Tack although you won't be able to tell the difference, I guess, going on colour alone.
Not only do you have "biscuits & gravy" you also have "grits" which is so disgusting I wouldn't give it to my chickens (if I had any) and which grits was intended for. Not that we Brits should be so superior given that we also eat turnips which were grown purely to give to cattle over winter so they didn't have to be slaughtered every autumn (not "fall", we're not falling about, although the leaves do fall off trees, I suppose, something you "thick" Americans obviously need to be reminded of every year, heh, heh!)
I could go on (and my dear wife says I often do) about putting syrup on sausages (and WHAT is a "weanie" anyway?) and eating "jelly" (no, it's called "jam" actually) on peanut butter? (OK, I admit it, I now do eat that but who would have thought that would be a good combination? MY English colleagues just think I'm weird.)
None of which is Arduino-related in any way or form but it does provide a little light relief as I grapple with my latest project. Nice to hear from you Are Jayem, enjoy the other videos. And who is this "Julian" guy anyway? :)
Now, you must be informed that I am a massive FAN of all things UK, and even had a few days tourism in London / Sysinghurst (?) with - of all fellow travellers - a family from Sweden. TV & movie: Two Ronnies, Dave Allen, Pythons, Keeping Up Appearances, Are You Being Served (and its follow-up, Grace & Favour), Red Dwarf, Blake's 7, QI, Dylan Moran, Dara O'Briain, Eddie Izzard, Blackadder, Masterpiece Theater, Laurie & Fry, Vicar of Dibly... many more.
I'm even a bigger fan, say fanatic, about Gilbert & Sullivan. I challenge myself all the time to identify the assorted accents (West Country, Cockney, Welsh, posh, etc.)
Being as the USofA is so big, it's not surprising foods and jargon are broadly regional. Being a Chicago native, I've never eaten grits in my 61 years (grits is a 'southerner' food). And USA 'southerners' more often refer to carbonated drinks as 'soda' where 'northerners' would say 'pop'. Jelly - that's a dessert in the UK, um? Occasionally people will opt to say 'preserves' for 'jam'. Disgusting foods here? Ham hocks, pig's feet, tripe. Wisconsin residents are "cheese-heads" (owing to the significant dairy industry). 'Frankfurters' = 'Hot dogs' in the north, 'wieners' in the south. And, curiously, Chicago, Wisconsin, Upper Peninsula Michigan (where I reside) have 'brats' (bratwurst) which are more sausage-y and larger than hot dogs. Beer required with those.
I was quite suprised by maple-frosted eclair-type donuts made with cooked bacon on top, in the north Idaho, east Washington state region. As expected, Texas is all about beef & mexican foods.
Julian Ilett is an electronic hobbyist YTer gaining wider notoriety in DIY circles. Not sure where he lives in the UK, but his style is very easygoing and he provides generous variety in his content. I've made frequent comments on YTer 'elecifun' channel, as he appears to be something of a beginner in the hobby.
I just received some ATTINY85 chips, but now realize I'll likely have to buy the support board(s). eBay and Banggood love me of late.
Cheerios = breakfast cereal. And plural of "so-long" = "ta-ta".
Just goes to show that generalisations are generally (!) bad things for us Brits to make. Fascinating about all that food, sounds, er, "interesting". I mean, bacon on a donut? Really? A breakfast all in the one cake!
And from all those UK TV series you must have watched more than I have, although I'm familiar with them, as you might expect. Not necessarily a fan of them all though!
I've been to Florida a few times, New York once and that's all I've seen of the US of A. Florida can be too hot and New York too busy (mostly those damn tourists!). But it was enjoyable nonetheless.
Anyway, it was fun reading your posts and I hope you like my videos as much as Julian's (who is a veritable electronics wizard, I just wish I had his following!). Good to hear from you.
Fun chatting! FWIW, for both people and scenic vistas, rather than the so-touristy Grand Canyon or Yellowstone Park, north Idaho and western Montana are spectacular. At least you saw Fla. and NYC.
My electronics workbench has yet to be restored to full glory, and a 2nd 'scope, CNC engraver and 3D printer will be added. When that's done, I'll have a place to fiddle with MC's, SBC's, and circuits/projects.
You'll grow your sub base, just takes time. Kindly... RJM