ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- I finally created an Arduino Shield PCB for the ATTiny85 fuse resetter covered in video #87.
$2 for PCB Prototype(Any Color): jlcpcb.com/
How to Get JLCPCB Cash Coupon: bit.ly/2GMCH9w
The PCB is an Arduino Shield (version R3) and it fits on top of an Arduino in the usual fashion. It allows us to use all 6 pins on the ATTiny85 as GPIO pins. Details in the video!
All details in my GitHub:
github.com/Ral...
The code and method of resetting the ATTiny85 fuses are the same, with the exact same sketch but it's just more natural to use a shield that lays flat.
Right at the end of the video, I mention that I have a few (very few) spare boards up for grabs so first come first served. Look at the pinned comments to see when the last one has already been claimed.
Video 87 - Six GPIO Pins on your ATTiny85
• #87 Six, yes SIX, GPIO...
Components that I ordered were from LCSC Electronics - Shop Online: lcsc.com, easy to order and you then have stocks of components for future projects afterwards.
Smaller buzzers are available from Banggood but I can't tell whether the holes will fit the PCB:
www.banggood.c...
A complete list of components required for this project is on my GitHub for you to download.
I have a small number of battery holders, ZIF sockets, Buzzers, and on/off switches all of which were chosen for this PCB. Watch the video to find out how to contact me if you want these.
The Gerber files (corrected) will be made available soon too. All the EasyEDA files, in fact, will be made available. Keep watching my GitHub where they will be listed. Then you can modify this design or order your own boards.
If you like this video please give it a thumbs up, share it and if you're not already subscribed please consider doing so and joining me on my Arduinite journey
My channel and blog are here:
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/ ralphbacon
ralphbacon.blog
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Hi Ralph
With your guides I morphed it to a AVRISP programmer and Fuse setter in one.
Its been great. Thanks for your hard work.
Fantastic! I'm very happy that I inspired you to do this, win win!
Nice to hear your comment on magic numbers. I have been debugging a program that's full of them. So much time spent trying to work out what they mean when I should have been fixing the problem. UPPER_LIMIT is so much easier to understand than 65342!
I like the use of one character variables even better. Especially in nested 'if' statements.Perhaps the developer thinks that longer names uses more memory?
comments and white space eat up memory as well. single line IF's also use less. I can hold my hands up to saying that i'll added the comments later.
Ha ha! My programs must be several megabytes big then, based on that! Most of my programs consist of comments so I remember what the bleep I was thinking when I wrote that code. I remember I got my first programming job partly down to the fact the test code was so well organised and commented. I haven't changed that habit, just got older!
Hi Ralph, Made my first order to JLCPCB and it was a bit of a shock frankly. When getting a quote, it said US$2.00 for the boards and US$25.00 for freight with DHL. This was all with Australia as the delivery address I might add. When I hit ok ( or order or whatever) it adjusted the price of the boards to $2.86 Aussie dollar, fair enough, but the freight showed a whopping great $62.27 (Aussie dollar) They then gave a freight discount for first up order of $28.60. So all up I was still looking at a final price of $36.53 which was about 6 odd more than I had expected.
Point is that freight thing might be a trap for future orders. Have no idea why the large difference between the original quote and the final ( before discount ) price.
I have no idea either, Jeff, but I'll pass your entire comment back to my JLCPCB sponsor for feedback.
What I will say though is this: I ordered 10 boards yesterday from them, for $5 plus the $18.28 DHL shipping to the UK, added it all to my cart, paid via PayPal and I paid exactly what was stated on their cart, $23.28. I let PayPal do any conversion back to UK pounds (or, my credit card company had I paid by that means). This was real money, paid by me.
Never, ever, let a shop or vendor do the conversion for you. Just like when you go on holiday abroad, _always_ pay in the local currency and let your credit card do the conversion. I'll let you know what, if anything, JLCPCB has to say about it. Given that Australia (Sydney) is 4,600 miles away from Shenzhen, and the UK more than 9000 miles away I don't see why it would cost more to deliver to you than me unless they have some sort of deal with DHL (UK).
Perhaps you could email me your order number and user account name so they can find it amongst the gazzilions they get every week? My email address is in the About section of my channel.
Received my two JLCPCB orders today. impressed by the quality and service.
Yes, they are good quality, Rob. Did you use DHL or another shipping option?
I got a Sinaptec reprap 3d printer control board 2 weeks ago. I think they are VERY good quality. Ralph I used the basic US postal service and that took about 3 weeks total in transit. It spent 4 days at the depot in hongkong, then 4 days in chicago arrival.
my patience is deeper than my wallet, just standard post to Aus which is about 10-14 days
If I were not running this channel I would have more patience (and even shallower pockets). But sometimes I need stuff _tomorrow_ and if that is not possible then 2-3 days just about works for me, otherwise I'd never get anything done and I'd have half a dozen projects in a waiting state - my brain can't handle that!
*All PCBs have now been claimed* ! If you are one of the lucky ones I will let you know. If you didn't get one I sincerely regret I did not order more but you can order your own for a decent price from JCLPCB or PCB manufacturer of your choice. My advice would be to wait until I publish the (slightly corrected) schematic, PCB layout and Gerber files later this week.
Sunday 2pm: And *the draw has now taken place* If you were selected I have sent you a communique. If you did not get any message from me, apologies, there were simply not enough boards to go round. 😬
All gone now, sorry!
Great video, I share your pain on learning and switching schematic design programs. I started out on a simple one called Fritzing, It worked well for my simple needs years ago but as I grew and my skills developed I needed more complex abilities and found I was stuck trying to learn a totally new format. I have been using KiCad for 2 years now and struggled at the beginning but Chris on Contextual Electronics has great instructions...BTW love the board I have the ATTiny programmer so I would actually be cheaper for me here in the states to just order a set of boards from jlcpcb...
Yes, it would be cheaper to order your own, given you're in the States. You could then tailor it to your battery holder, buzzer etc. I'm getting more to grips with KiCad now which I will talk about in a future video.
awhile back i send three revision of my h-bridge design for fabrication, good thing using JLC doesn't break the bank. everything under $30 👍👍👍
Sounds good to me. I might do a correction revision of this board... maybe.
Nice video. I've been thinking of trying this PCB service. I used to have a fuse reset circuit on a breadboard. If you use these 8 pin parts you'll eventually brick one and have to restore the fuse settings. Now I use one of the cheap TL866 programmers. It can program the chip even if you have disabled the reset pin so you can use the reset pin just like the other IO pins. It's still a pain moving the chip from the programmer to the circuit your building. Reminds me of the "burn and crash" cycle when programming eprom based systems like the 8051. At least you don't have to erase the chip with UV light.
It's interesting, BillyF, that you mention you can program the chip using a TL866 even if the RST pin is disabled - I wonder how they get it into the bootloader state that checks whether a program is waiting to come down the line? And, yes, I do remember putting EEPROMS into the UV box _forever_, before reusing. Glad those days are well behind us!
@@RalphBacon it doesn't use the bootloader or the Arduino IDE for programming. It programs the chip in high voltage mode. You use the Arduino IDE to write and compile the program. After you compile the program with Verbose mode in the IDE enabled, you can see the location of the HEX file it builds. Then load that into the programmer software for burning. You have control over all the fuse settings in the TL866 software. You can set the other fuses for speed and other features. There are fuse calculators on line to help. Hope this helps.
Yes, I've used those online fuse calculators, very good this one: www.engbedded.com/fusecalc/
So the way you do it is to save on the bootloader, saves program space, good idea.
So you're telling me that the old, old method of:
1) Buy some Ferric Chloride.
2) Get some double-sided copper board.
3) Clean and clean and clean and clean the copper!
4) "Paint" the trace with the etch-resistant stuff.
5) Try and find a tiny drill bit and a drill that will take it.
6) Etch the copper board, just like developing a black and white photo.
7) Hope the ferric chloride did not get under the etch-resistant stuff.
8) Wash, clean and drill.
Are all gone? lol (Yes, I was that kid!)
Me too! When I was a teenager this was _exactly_ how I made some PCBs. Single sided, of course. So much work. And my fingers went brown with the Ferric Chloride (gloves? pah! I was a reckless teenager). In some ways it scarred me (and scared me) from making PCBs again really, until the start of 2019, this year. Now the scales have fallen from my eyes. I'm a born again PCB maker!
Actually there is no bootloader in ATtiny85 since it is programmed by ISP connection (Arduino as ISP or any other AVR ISP) All the "burn bootloader" function in Arduino IDE does is set the fuses to choose the internal clock frequency as set in the "tools" menu. So, if you have an ATtiny that works slowly than expected, it means the internal clock fuse set is wrong. After you choose the correct board, processor and clock settings in the tools menu, all you need to do is click "burn bootloader" from the "sketch" menu, and when that is done, all the fuses are now set the way you chose, you can go ahead and upload your sketch in the usual manner. I am sure you already know this Ralph, but since you did not mention it in the video, I thought I could pitch in. I designed my own development board for the ATtiny25,45,85 family last year. It can be used as an UNO shield for programming but it can also work on its own (has its own barrel type power socket, 5v and 3.3v regulators, a USB-B socket connected to an FTDI both for powering and software serial work, leds for power, programming RX-TX-heartbeat etc. on board) What I did not think of then was to include this IO/RST switching hardware on this board. Now I am thinking of designing a version 2 of it to include this function, I think I need to re-visit your video 87 to check the schematic and the code. I'll check to see if I can modify the code to do the switching of 12v supply by software too. Inspiring video as always :-) Best regards!
That would be fabulous, Bora, a combined board. Rather you than me though! Wait until I publish the schematic and everything on my GitHub, I hope to do that this week but time is very pressing at the moment. I did know about the fuses (the end of the video I show the correct flash rate) but some things just get pushed down into my deep storage memory and take a while before my brain fishes out the info again!
@@RalphBacon No rush Ralph. I am about to change cities (move from Ankara to Istanbul at the end of this month) and currently the only project I can do is to pack my very crowded and messy workshop. In June I'll have to setup my new workshop, (hopefully a better organised one) and any project I can do will be in July, the earliest.
We'll touch base in July then! Good luck with your move. Quite a change (in temperature if nothing else!).
If I may make a suggestion for a V2 of your board, add a transistor that controls the 12v line via a signal line from the Arduino instead of the mechanical switch.
If you want to get fancy, you could use a resistive divider from that supple to one of the analog puts so that you could check the voltage of the battery.
Great video, sir!
I look forward to seeing your V2 of this board, David, once I have published the Schematic etc from EasyEDA! Oh, and can you have Alexa program the thing for me too, that would be cool. And make my toast in the morning? 😂
You know I'm just ribbing you, right? Your suggestions are very sensible but there comes a time when I think that development creep must *stop* and a product made! Until V2, anyway...
@@RalphBacon You just think you're kidding. :). I have been meaning to make the transition from eagle to kicad and this sounds like a fun project to do it with. So, shall I?
Why not? Wait until I publish all the necessary documents and then *go for it* . I had to cut out a lot about KiCad from this video but I'm getting to grips with it now. My next board is made with KiCad. I'm not saying it's better than EasyEDA - but it does work, once you have actually learned how to do it. I've used a book to study from by Dr Peter Dalmaris, "KiCad Like a Pro" (published by Elektor) and it's absolutely brilliant if you follow each chapter and do the exercises. More in a future video!
I definitely need one of those! :) Can't remember what I was doing but I had to disable the reset pin on a handful of them
So watch the very end of the video and let me know, Christian.
That extractor may be fine for PLCC packages, but a screwdriver usual works better for DIP.
Moving the chip from test circuit to fuse resetter to programmer back to fuse resetter and then to test circuit is not really my idea of a good test environment, combining the fuse resetter and the programmer would help.
It looks like JLCPCB has increased their prices, a few weeks ago you could get 10 pcb's for $2, it is not that the price increase is very significant, the entry level is still very cheap and shipping means the percent increase is rather low. Do the shape of your PCB not increase the price significantly?
Henrik Jensen I agree combined the aurduino, programmer and the fuse reset all on one PCB would be the bomb
If you look at my reply to James Bowen (below) you'll see some pricing examples. The reason JCLPCB gave me for the change is that five pieces are probably enough for prototype runs, and it's just wasteful (not eco-friendly) to supply 10. I think I agree with that, given that I still have 8 pieces of my first PCB just sitting in a box now!
If you're making kits (to sell) or something that requires a (much) larger run then it still works out very favourably too. The shape (or size) up to 100mm x 100mm does not alter the price. I haven't tried a strange shape (eg a Christmas Star, for example) or ones with a cutout in the middle of the board (eg a Raspberry Pi shield with a hole for the heatsink to poke through). That would be interesting to try, I'll add it to my list! Thanks for raising this interesting point, Henrik.
I expected that milling would increase the PCB price significantly, with the same price for non-square PCB's I could have saved some Dremel work.
I have one PCB where I really needed the 10 and it was not like they pressed 10 PCB down you throat, the default was 5 and you had to select 10 and if you did more PCB's on the same order only one could get the 10.
Anyway PCB is cheap today, professionally I have paid 100's of $ for a single PCB prototype.
It would be easy enough to mock up a strangely shaped PCB and get a quote from them. I intend to do that and also have a cutout in the middle of the board to see if the they can cope with it!
Great as always. I've been hoping you were going to revisit this project, do thank you. Kind of makes you wonder what the fuses do on the ATMEGA328p. No I am not asking you to build one.
I did cover the fuses, I believe so, Steven, in a previous video (might even have been #87) - the most interesting I found was to not have any kind of bootloader but just the code so you get an extra 2K approx of program space. I may explore this in the future a bit more. Keep tuned!
ziplock esd bags ! nice.
Yes, very professional, obviously geared up for larger businesses as well as keen hobbyists.
Ralph. Sorry for the delayed query on this, but I was on holiday (as you would say) and am catching up on missed videos now. My query is why did you include a battery on the shield versus taking power from the arduino or the power supplied to it? Thanks!
Welcome back from your vacation, Bruce, (as you might say, I guess?), I hope it was a good one. The battery is a 12 volt one. I _could_ have done some buck-boost thing from the on-board 5v but the original design didn't have this and it seemed overkill. The 12v battery is the same as car key fob ones, A23 (or 23A) so easy to get and one will last forever (if you remember to switch it off, hence the red LED, to remind you). Good question, thanks for posting.
Thanks for sharing this
I prefer to use the attiny85 in smd version, and USB interface😀
Yes, SMD will feature in a future video, Asger, but even that is going to be a compromise!
The fuse in this program divides the clock by 8. So 16mhz is working with 2mhz.
Oh, did I leave the divide-by-eight fuse set (by mistake)? Whilst the oscillator runs at 16MHz or 8MHz (etc) the CKDIV8 fuse preloads the CLKPR register after a reset so that the core and peripherals run at 1/8th of that frequency. Supposed to save power. Hmm.
@@RalphBacon yes, i tried at home and figured out thanks to the fuse calculator (thanks to you too). So I uploaded the bootloader at 8mhz, and the code at 1mhz. That solves the problem and saves power.
I'm glad I suggested Easy EDA to you. I designed a 4 channel relay board and it worked out perfect. I should make a video of that soon. Thanks for the vid.If anyone wants to see it please sub and it will be up soon.
EasyEDA is great, thanks for the suggestion. I shall be talking more about it in a future (PCB-related) video.
ATTINY85V-10SU : LCSC $1.4286 @ 100qty, Mouser $0.968 @ 100qty, Dunno bout you but that's food for the week. Pays to shop around a bit I guess, least they have a BOM tool so I wont waste DAYS figuring out which supplier is best. Shipping is also a factor for me.
As they say, Michael, what you win on the roundabout you lose on the swings! Each company makes business decisions on what they are going to charge, and that price can vary daily, just like supermarkets. As you say, shipping is probably the biggest factor to consider - you certainly would not want to split an order over two suppliers as you would lose any possible price advantage on individual components, that's for sure!
I may be old school but I like to use debug wire in attiny series. 2 pin connector for debugging. like code stepping and checking internal registers.
Debugging? You mean to detect, diagnose and correct errors? In that case, you've lost me already because as you probably already know Benny writes all the C++ code and his code is obviously purrfect! 😽
@@RalphBacon Something like that. Also pretty handy in application layer if you are doing something complex.
In order to get the right frequency you should once to load the attiny85 bootloader
I think the bootloader is correct, Amit, it was my code that specified the wrong frequency. It's OK now!
30 seconds in and I like it already.
IIRC, the Arduino IDE sets the fuses on the ATtiny when you use the "burn bootloader" option. i.e. it won't run at 16MHz … or anything else … until you do that.
P.S. I suggest using ATtinyCore with the ATtiny85 ... Definitions and installation instructions for the "Board" github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCore
Yes, the bootloader was previously uploaded OK but I must have set the clock speed to 1Mhz at that time (probably to test the current consumption). But I uploaded the sketch specifying a 16Mhz chip which slowed everything down (well, the millis() and delay() anyway) but it's working now, Bernd. I will look at the ATtinyCore, sounds interesting, thanks for the heads up.
$18.28 shipping seems a little high. $8.01seems ok. If you ordered twice the quality, how much more than the $18.28 Option would your order total approximately? Would the $18.28 double to $32.56 for twice the amount of boards?
According to JLCPCB's homepage, Mark, "...[JLCPCB] don’t earn money on shipping fees.". So the fee is set by negotiation between JLCPCB and DHL for the thousands of parcels that get sent every week.
I know $18 sounds a lot but it's the price DHL are demanding. Their service, though, is truly second to none, with full tracking at every step. I showed other, cheaper shipping options too, remember.
If you look at other Asian websites (AliExpress, for example) the DHL price is *much* higher!
Look at this this way: $5 + $18 shipping = $23 for 10 boards which makes each board $2.30 each. Or, just order 5 boards for $2 and it's $20 incl shipping for 5 boards making them $4 each. Sounds OK to me but everyone must make up their own minds.
looks great
Thanks for your post, Crazy Couple, good to hear from you.
Would it work better as an inbound pin. like a motion sensor input.
It would definitely work as an input pin. Great suggestion!
HI Ralph, thanks for the video. Did you have to pay duty when the PCBs were delivered?
No duty, VAT, customs or anything, Paul. Is your experience different? I did hear, anecdotally, that using a courier such as UPS, DHL or other raises the risk of custom's import duty and the like. But that's pure rumour and speculation on the part of the poster. I've had several deliveries now from DHL and had no trouble. As I didn't pay for the boards I would be pretty miffed to have to pay duty or whatever. The UK post office says:
"Gifts between private individuals over the value of £39 are also liable for VAT. Goods and gifts over these values may also be liable for customs duty.
You no longer have to pay Customs duty for goods up to the value of £135. However, you will still be required to pay import VAT and excise duty where applicable. In the event of the UK leaving the EU with 'No Deal' this will apply to countries within the EU."
personal.help.royalmail.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/143/~/ive-received-a-grey-fee-to-pay-card
@@RalphBacon I did, Ralph, and it was quite a lot, maybe 20% of the order value including the shipping. I suspected that the 'rigour' of the DHL systems would increase the risk of a package being selected.
@@PaulMcKillop if you use the cheapest delivery you should get the boards in 2 weeks and once it's not over £15/16 in total you should not have to pay vat.
@@BrianLough Thanks for that, Brian. I think the carriage charges may be what makes it liable, as you say.
@@PaulMcKillop yeah it's what catches people! I'm not sure of the exact figure for the UK (I'm based in Ireland) but it seems like your customs are stricter than mine. I think the general EU rule is anything over €22 or something, but Irish customs won't collect anything less than €6 so effectively it's €28, but I think UK customs will collect no matter how little
Nice boards Ralph. Did you change the PCB manufacturer for a special reason?
BTW I wrote you a mail.
Most importantly, Michael, are you _sure_ you sent it to the correct address - I haven't had it? Do check!
Secondly, I haven't changed PCB manufacturer, I have simply expanded my sponsorship base, which is quite a long story and not for public divulgence. I'll soon have another video with my previous PCB manufacturer, I'm sure. I have no favourites - or, perhaps better phrased, only my favourites get to sponsor my channel. Lesser manufacturers don't get past the email stage! I'm sponsor-neutral! Now go and check that email!
Ralph S Bacon hey Ralph. Im sure I did not spell it wrong. TH-cam says we*****er@ja************on.com. I Masked it here because of spam protection for you. Is this the correct one? Maybe I landed in your spam folder? My mail address contains my full name so you would be able to easily find it. And I also got not mailer daemon response for my mail.
I'll recheck, Michael, and yes, it seems that you found the correct address. If I don't find it I'll add you to the *oversubscribed* draw anyway - just try resending it anyway. Do you know, I put that offer right at the end of the video so only the enthusiastic diehards would find it and I still have more requests than I can fulfil. Drat.
Ralph S Bacon Hey Ralph. I’ve resend that mail. Just check again. Yes, I noticed that. And that you got so much response shows that many of your subscribers watch the whole video. BTW I liked those questions and answers in some of your last videos. Most times I knew the correct answer.
Your message was received but now I get:
550 5.7.1 [CS01] Message rejected due to local policy. Please visit support.apple.com/en-us/HT204137
Seems you (or Apple) don't want me to reply after all!!! Technology, don't you just love it?
Why wasn’t it $4 for 10 boards? Could you have ordered two lots of 5?
I think the $2 for 5 boards is an introductory price, Gary. If you were to order two lots of 5 boards you would have to pay two lots of shipping, not a good idea.
avrdude: Device signature = 0x001fff
avrdude: Expected signature for ATtiny85 is 1E 93 0B
Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.?
Well, that's the upload program (avrdude) complaining it's found a different (physical) chip to what was expected (as specified in the Tools menu).
Did you "upload using the programmer" option?
Are you sure your chip is a ATTiny85? Is it a clone with a different signature? The signature can be changed in the boards.txt but that is not for beginners.
Jlcpcb download?
Wait a minute $2 for 5 or $5 for 10. So, it’s cheaper to buy in smaller quantity?
Not if you factor in the delivery charges, James, which is the biggest cost for small quantity PCBs anyway, from anywhere. the thing is do we need 10 boards for a one-off project? I think five is abought right, to allow for mistakes and perhaps a duplicate build. If you need a decent run (as I should have done for this generic board) then the price is still great: for example, 100 pcs of this board would cost a total (incl. shipping) of $69.77 (£53). The price remains about the same for 1000 pieces (although JCLPCB does then warn you to prototype the board with a smaller quantity first!).
If you Panel the PCB's it works out more economical as the offer price is for 5 X 100mm x 100mm boards. I have just had 60 pcb's delivered for $2 as they are a little under an inch square each, they come as 5 sheets with V grooves so that they each crack off perfectly :)
And if you need 60 smallish boards this is the perfect way to do it, thanks for sharing Steve. I'm now wondering if I could make a generic ATTiny85 board as I'm not so keen on the ones I got...
Is there an option to avoid having the JLCPCB name and logo printed on the board?
I'm looking to do some PCBs as 'medals', with a graphic front and back (black and gold) and the JLPCB 'addition' would kill that idea...
That is entirely optional, Duncan, I added it to the front Silk Screen as part of the promotion. Some PCB manufacturers do put the order number somewhere on the board unless you tick a checkbox to not do that so keep your eyes peeled on the Options screen. But regarding the logo, you should be good to go!
@@RalphBacon Thanks for the prompt reply Ralph...
yes, I imported a gerber for a open reprap design, and it did not change anything or add any logos.
One board to set the fuse, an other to programm the TINY85. Can you make it on board for fuse and programming? T1 short 12V to ground. better use a pnp transistor to switch 12V on
Tricky, Jens, and somewhat over-engineered even it were possible, don't you think? A bit like having a function in C++ have a single responsibility (uncannily known as the single responsibility principle) I'm keen on hardware doing one thing _well_ rather than a multifunction device not quite cutting the mustard. Unless it's a smartphone or a Swiss Army Knife. They do lots of things well!
@@RalphBacon I think you can also use that 12V programmer to update software from attiny85. So no need to jumping between boards for one fusebit setting.
do think it would be possible to have a bare-bones ATmel386p in a completely powered down state then trigger the power-up from a tilt-switch, transmit info using an nrf24 module then power itself back down? not looking for detailed info but I'd value greatly even a 'yes' I think it could be easily done or a 'no' not something that would be easily done.
I've just started with micro-controllers but have been a software engineer for decades and decades and decades and decades....
what I want to make is a small device that attaches to the inside of my mailbox lid and transmits a signal into the house when the lid has been lifted. both to notify my of mail arrival and alert me to unauthorized access to my mailbox. I'm sure I'm probably covering well traversed territory but like I said, I'm challenging myself so that I can learn.
Yes.
You want more? OK, Dirk.
If you look at video #123 you'll find a method that switches on the Arduino with a simple switch but then stays _latched_ on until the Arduino says I've finished at which point it switches off. Whilst I designed the two-transistor circuit I discovered belatedly that so have a gazillion other people so it's hardly ground-breaking, drat! I thought it was too easy!
Have a watch of the video (the two transistor MOSFET circuit is the part you're interested in) and then come back to me if you have further questions, which I'm sure you will have.
Now, if you've been a software engineer for decades (plural) and decades and decades... that means you're now over 90, probably pushing 100. Quite a feat. Take it easy on this project! I can't afford to lose any viewers or subscribers!
@@RalphBacon well, ok, i exaggerated just a little. Since about 1973 when my programs were stored on 80-column punch cards or paper-tape.
Thanks for everything.
I used paper tape (briefly) at university. And punched cards (even more briefly) in my first job. The technology of holes in paper is still alive and kicking though in some ancient, and very noisy, looms (that weave cloth) as I was sent such a video by a fellow Arduinite earlier this week! Obviously, he's trying to replace that paper with an Arduino.
Sad I missed the give away. :(
It looks like you have an ICSP header on your board ...
Can you use an external ISP programmer (or cable from an Arduino as ISP) to Program the ATTiny on the Reset board?
Presumably you coud, as long as you remember to turn off the 12V supply, yes?
Not that switching is hard, but it would save a bit of back and forth.
BTW, I also sent you an email - If you could please keep your eye out for it. :)
A board that allows both programming and resetting of the RST fuse bit (and perhaps others) is a great idea and others here are already thinking how they might do that. It would make it much simpler.
I didn't get an email from you but I did put your name in the draw anyway. If you get selected I'll let you know here. Good luck.
@@RalphBacon
I thought maybe you did include that as an option but didn't want to make the demo confusing. :)
my email starts is sun***il at gmail ... possibly went into your spam?
Ah, yes, I found your email (I'll reply to that separately). I included your name in the draw anyway (perhaps you didn't even want a PCB) but unfortunately you didn't get randomly picked, commiserations. Of course, if enough people want the board we could just buy one lot of 10 for $22 and share them out for $3 a board (which might just about cover *UK* postage and jiffy bag). Sending anything to the States (or Canada) is a King's ransom, I don't know why. Air mail costs money, I suppose. Anyway, we will wait and see.
The timy85 doesn't have an internal 16MHz clock, try selecting 8 MHz.
Do you know, I raised an eyebrow at that when I saw the option offered to me in the Arduino IDE but assumed I was mistaken and it allowed it. Did you watch the end of the video, all fixed there @1MHz.
Yes, did you switch to 16MHz, I didn't see that part. I was just looking at the fuses and didn't see a way to get 16 MHz. From you fuse values, it seemed like the part was set for 8MHz with a 1/8 divider. Maybe the bootloader can change this? I don't have any tiny85s to try with.
POOOOOR PCB design must say
But you don't say in WHAT way it is poor, nor how it should have been done better. And poor (in your not-so-humble opinion) it might be, but it works.
How much current is required for the fuse reset (on 12v line)
Tiny, quite appropriate for this chip, really, Michael. It's just the voltage that matters here.
In that case, what are your thoughts on putting a small boost converter circuit on the board and using the 5v from the arduino to get the 12v? Love the videos by the way. One day I will make some of my own.
I just knew someone would suggest this, as I had thought of it for about a nano-second and then thought Why Overengineer? But you're right, it would probably work just fine, no battery required. Why not put it together on a breadboard and find out? Or, watch the end of my video and, depending on where you are, consider the offer. 1 down, 3 to go.
Nice board Ralph, now off to find your email address and enter the draw!
I hope you will be successful, Andy, it will be a random draw. Glad you like it, anyway!
@@RalphBaconI hope I got the email right! I went to your channel and followed the instructions so fingers crossed!
Yes, I got the email. You are in the draw. Fingers crossed.
i am opening my own pcb factory and i am able to provide pcb at much lower prices than jlc... the customers need to design the pcb without using any holes. the holes are difficult part and takes lots of time to implement it. holes also causes static electricity and makes the circuit unstable..
How do holes cause static electricity?
Well, with all due respect I wish you luck but I'm not really sure what you're saying. You will be producing PCBs without holes (so an SMD PCB then?) which will not require a Drill File from Gerber then. But as for holes causing static electricity and making the circuit stable... well, I wonder what sort of circuits they are. Good luck with your factory, though.
Your heads upside down