Finally, a PROFESSIONAL explanation, with a professional quality video, audio, and shop! Many TH-cam videos turn people off with crappy quality in every aspect, but _you_ restore hope in TH-cam professionalism.
It makes me anxious... I do not why because I do want my own bench too look like this than the " throw in two hand grenades and shut the door" it is today.
Hi Bill, I was re-watching this video ( as I often do with yours as they are exactly what I need ) and I saw your comment about having 50,000 subscribers in 2018. Then I noticed your current number is 555,000. And very well deserved. All the best from the England/Scotland border, Pete
As a non native speaker of your language, I appreciate your clear and perfectly understandable language. And the interesting themes of course, too!! Greetings from Switzerland.
As I've learned recently, there is also a way to program your MC using an Arduino board with flat chip that can't be removed. All you need to do is 1. upload "ArduinoISP" sketch (included in Arduino Studio examples) to Arduino board, thus turning it into an ISP programmer 2. Connect following 6 pins of your recipient MC (check pinout in the datasheet) to corresponding pins of your programmer (Arduino board, note that you might want/need to change the output pins in the "ArduinoISP" sketch code): MOSI, MISO, RESET, SCK, VCC, GND 3. Select "Programmer: Arduino as ISP" in Arduino Studio or similar option in IDE of your choice (I've done it with custom upload protocol in PlatformIO) 4. Upload your sketch as usual. The video is still very informative, it clarifies the options to burn the firmware into the MC pretty well.
It's pretty good but he's no triple camera guy. :) Edit: memification aside. The production quality on this video is absolutely top notch. Very well done.
A refreshing and welcome change from all those super hip TH-camrs that think it's so cool to have a secondary shot they're not actually addressing, aka, the crapshot. (Techmoan made a video about this but sadly took it down.)
Please let me that. My IC is working on arduino but not working on breadboard. Everything is all right. Showing issue with Tx and Rx . Why? Please guide me
FAKE! No shops in the real world are that neat and clean. Obviously a green screen hoax. Just kidding . . . really wish I could keep things that organized. This was a great video with valuable content and superb production quality. Great work!
@@Sidowse. Yep, so I order some more and get told off. It’s even worse when resistor arrays get put in with things like a picaxe cos they are black plastic things with little legs poking out the bottom.
For anyone showing up here later. He states that any ATMEGA328PU you find will normally have the bootloader and that's why it has the P or PU designator. That is not correct. The P means it's the low power version of the chip and the U means it is in the DIP package with the through-hole pins like you see on an Arduino UNO. Chips that come with the bootloader preinstalled will state that it has it specifically otherwise they will not. Otherwise these are really pretty good videos and someone starting out can learn a lot from this guy!
I am a retired electrical eng, and I always been excited to still work on electronic project and DSP algorithms, robotics and vintage radio restorations. I discovered your channel lately and I can say that I am amazed to see how clear are your explanations and how clean are your animates sketches bouncing around.....I am greatful for all your time and effort you take to share your vast experiences, you are a great source of inspirations for many electronics state of the art projects.....Michel ( Québec, Canada)
Just arrived on your channel. I am a newbie at Arduino (not electronics). I really like the way you teach: very slow and calm, good video, good examples and schematics. Despite the fact that I am french It's a true pleasure to listen at you. Congratulations !
I'm working on my thesis for my grade degree and want to do a robot like thing with arduino and oh man you have helped me so much with many of your videos! I love how you explain everything so smoothly and in a way that even complete begginers will probably be able to follow. Keep it up man! Thanks for the hard work, you just got yourself a new subscriber!
Please let me that. My IC is working on arduino but not working on breadboard. Everything is all right. Showing issue with Tx and Rx . Why? Please guide me
Your videos are great I am new to electronics and find you explain every thing so well, keep them coming. Forgot to tell you I'm 85 years young never to late to start.
Great vid with genuinely useful content. Nice to see a presenter who speaks at a normal, relaxed pace and not targetting 1000 words per minute. Great job. Thanks.
I built some of these a few years back, as projects, I was just inventorying my chip collection this afternoon and discovered I had several brand new 328's in one tray, as well as some old atmega 8's. Nice review on how to use them again.
To use the surface mount type uno to program a bare atmega328....On the surface mount uno...you can run its reset to ground on the uno board. Run tx and rx lines like you did. From board to atmega328 to be programmed. Then when you upload the code you'll have to manually reset the atmega 328 you're programming manually once by touching its reset pin to ground briefly. Basically this method is isolating the ftdi usb to serial on the uno board by keeping the onboard 328 in a constant state of reset. Great video!
Criticism but its positive... many N-T people will not have the patience with your delivery. I am A-N-T so i find it almost comforting. Precise and covers everything without rushing and very well illustrated. So, my criticism is about others, and not actually you. Keep up the great work, and i love the 2 camera angles!
Bill, this was a great video! Thank you for sharing. You answered a big question about how to use the ATmega328P as a free standing chip in my project. You are my hero!
Great Video !!! Another good reason to go for the ATmega328 (or any other ATmega chip solution) is that you are not allowed to use an Arduino for commercial projects if you are not willing to release the source code. That said, you are allowed to use the Chip solution in commercial products, like an R2D2 Robot, if Lucasfilm gave you permission to make one.
Awesome Bill, you've done it again to impress me! I've been working recently in the AtMega328, and many of my questions are answered in this video. May the force be with you too Bill. Can't wait for your next video!
Please let me that. My IC is working on arduino but not working on breadboard. Everything is all right. Showing issue with Tx and Rx . Why? Please guide me
Bill, I have read some of the comments on several of your video presentations and I want to encourage you to not change a thing in your presentations. They are just excellent- if the critics know so much about how to improve on excellence, they should make their own videos. You are one of the few video teachers who are both understandable and can actually teach something without confusing silly personal comments, meaningless explanations, and irrelevant side information- Oh, and without distracting long pauses, and 'errrs" and 'ummms' and "You knows" and endless redundancies and repetitions. And God bless you for not including irritating canned, loud "music"- as the official XOD tutorials do!!! Thanks again- JB
The capacitors required for the crystal depend on the load capacitance specified for the crystal, typically 20pf, that requires 36pf capacitors. The formula is load capacitance minus the stray capacitance ( typically 3 or 4 pf ) and double it. For a 20pf crystal this works out at 36pf capacitors. For the crystal shown in the video the load capacitance must be 22 divided by 2 is 11, minus stray capacitance of 3pf = 8pf.
It is the other way around, here is an example: C1, C2 = 2*CL - 2*Cstray CL = (C1+ 2*Cstray)/2 = C1/2+ Cstray C1 = C2 = 22pf, Cstray = 7pf CL = 22/2+ 7 = 18pF
When he said "If you have a local electronics store". OMG I miss my long lost neighborhood Radio Shack store. The one from my childhood in the 1960's with all the parts and kits.
NO JOKE. I am only coming up 20 years old soon, but I remember when I first started to get into hardware, radioshack was... beautifully exciting to me, and I have distinct memories of walking down the aisles and being fascinated by all these plastic boxes with resistors, IC's, wacky sensors, and all that. Going into highschool, the radioshack closed down, and all I had left was this awesome massive breadboard with lots of controls, some kind of starter kit. It had frequency knobs, voltage controls. Unfortunately I lost it, but i'm really smacking myself on the wrist for not getting bigger into it before radioshack went down, because my days are now visiting Amazon, and other websites. I really miss not having the opportunity to go into a local electronics store and browse components, or talk to someone about projects... local 'electronics' stores nowadays are just shitty phone cases and "phone repair" with some third-hand computer parts, and old accessories :(... Nothing close to me can line up with what Radio Shack offered, and I can't find any alternatives near me... maybe i'm looking in the wrong places?
Sir, you are best..... you are the one what 21st century embedded system beginners want you as mentor. You are hero for us..... thank you so much sir...
I just program the chip in the board and then take it out. I've done this dozens of times and the socket is still in good shape. Just put in a new chip that has a boot loader already burned in. Works like a champ.
Great video. A small remark: the leds shown at 7:27 have their internals mirrored. The larger structure inside the LED is in reality connected to the cathode (the short leg).
I just wrote an e-mail and in the Background started this Video and i immediately recognized you. Such a calm Style of teaching i Love it. Not to mention the actual contect :D great as always
Very valuable info. I am just going to start experimenting with Arduino but I was already thinking on how to shrink the project once it works, and here it is, not just how to shrink it but also how to simplify it.
Dear Bill, Excellent explanation with the iron patience that is explained. I will post my issues about the programming on your forum. One subject missing in the end , How the FTDI module connected to the PC and how programmed with Arduino IDE.
NO DTR/RTS PIN: If for some reason you get a FTDI with no DTR/RTS pin you can still use it. Either look for the datasheet of the driver (CH340 or PL2303 mostly) and bridge it yourself. Or you can program the Atmega328 by putting a button from pin 1 to GND (do not remove the 10k res). Start pressing the button and upload your sketch, when the status changes from Compiling to Uploading, release the button.
Hi, thanks for your excellent video. I have, what maybe be a dumb question, but here goes... I playing around with a project for my allotment and the Nano seems to draw around 100mA making me think I'll need a massive battery (maybe a 12v car unit) for it to last long enough to work. I thought about stripping the components down to only use the ATmega328, but it seems there is no point based on your video as it appears the power consumption will be the same. Is this right? Many thanks, Connor
Thankyou for taking the time to explain in such detail and making the effort to demonstrate. You have inspired me to explore and learn an entirely new frontier and I'm approaching 54 yrs of age. I am continuoisly amazed at how much the arduino has in common with many of todays appliances and industrial controls. Please keep doing what you do here. I hope you can feel the appreciation from those who follow your channel.
You really connect all the dots - plenty of detail AND the material on the web site. I haven't yet decided whether to program my project in C or directly in assembly, the latter provided better control and efficiency - especially when using a complex interrupt structure. Thanks for the wonderful videos - its been 20 years since I was designing uC systems - and the videos are an easy way to 'get my head back into tje game' so to speak.
Nice presentation with very clear, to the point dialogue and professional visuals. Just a few observations: switching between cameras serves no purpose and instead becomes a gimmick that detracts from your message. Choose one camera and stick with it unless you are showing your workbench/hands. Find a longer focal length lens and set up the camera farther away to minimize distortion. Finally, move the camera down to the height of your nose to make you look your correct height. Thanks.
Sorry, I have to disagree with you, Dave, and pulsejet. I suffered through a 1 hour MOOC class where the camera never changed. Boooring. Watch any movie or TV show, starting counting when a scene changes, you will rarely get to 20. Why is this done? Several reasons: to keep retakes to a minimum, less script for the actor to memorize, and, of course, to keep the audience from getting bored. I would edit a few of the head turnings out though; otherwise, this guy is one of the best on YT.
I should have looked here first. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. Since I have a FTDI already, I will just skip to the last method. Also, I hate pulling big chips out of sockets, I will probably build a programming rig with a ZIF socket just to avoid the hassle of getting the ATMega on and off of the breadboard. Alternatively, I may use an HC05 Bluetooth module and a wireless connection to the computer.
Just did a project using the ATmega 328P in school about 2 months ago. Followed posts from Ralph Bacon and Derek Molloy to get the thing working. Then incorporated stuff from Robojax and learn electronics (among others) to create a DIY multimeter with function and tone generator.
Your videos are so organized and very informative. If I have the chance to watch your videos when I was a student. I will be a greate hardware engineer.
Excellent video! It confirmed everything i already suspected about programming the chips. While watching, it occurred to me that one could replace the standard IC socket on an Arduino UNO board with a ZIF socket to make it easier to switch the ATmega328 ICs. This obviously requires some experience with desoldering/soldering.
Very nice video , going to order some chips and move one of my projects to this format. I am building a device to monitor the heated bed on my 3d printer and shut it down if the mosfet fails resulting in a runaway heating . And also shut it down if the temperature reaches a set fail safe . Been using one uno just to drive a display and Sd card reader and another mega to monitor the 3d printer.
Never let viewer down. Great quality video, help understand in deep, nice voice and explanation. TH-cam need this channel. Next video Shrinking your Esp32 Projects please ?
Great video. I have been thinking about just using the microcontroller to not have to take out the uno for every new project and this has really told me everything i need to know. It was very helpful. It could be a bit more concise though, but it was definitely still worth my time.
If you're getting into this, I recommend buying a programmer such as the TL866 II Plus, which can program a wide variety of microprocessors. No need for an Arduino if you're getting down to the nitty gritty. Plus, there's a such a wide variety of microprocessors on the market, you're not stuck with a version that might not be in stock (especially here in 2022), or one which does a lot more than you need for your application.
although i have no immediate plans to do this, I found your video very informative and well done. You obviously put tons of work into these videos and I thank you
First of all I wish to thank you a lot Sir...for making this awesome video... I was watching your videos since last 4 years... Your videos are really helpful and gives me detailed knowledge about arduino and other mcu s ... Thank you Sir.
Fantastic demonstration and very informative and helpfull. Some simple ideas that really help! I have now a project where the ATmega328 is build in, and for software updates I now made a module (in which the Arduino UNO is build without the chip), with on one side the USB connection to the computer for programming, and on the other side a 4 wire connection that I can plug in my PCB of my project where the ATmega328 is situated. I skipped the +5V feeding from that module, as my product has his own power, and can even, when running live, be updated if software is again downloaded!! Exelent use of many items in this video! Thanks a lot.Highly appreciate this.
A very informative and practical hands-on video, delivered in a calm and confident tone (unlike some other videos I have seen by others). I will definitely continue to follow this channel! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Hi DroneBot, I'm looking to make a smart device, like a pair of Smart Glasses (as in Google Glass). I know that there are tutorials online about how to use an Arduino Micro or Nano or something to make the Smart Glasses without disassembling it, but the thing is, I want to make the device even SMALLER than that. I want the computer to just be a barebones chip at this point. And the Arduino UNO, well, you can disassemble the ATmega Chip in the centre and use it in standalone projects, and I want to do that. I haven't done that yet as I'm still trying to learn how to do some stuff like add a voice recognition thing or something, but, hopefully this tutorial will help me when trying to do something like that in the future. So thanks!
I love watching your videos! Too many tutorials these days brush over the details. I really feel like I'm learning from yours instead of just following the steps. A quick question - is the 16MHz oscillator necessary? I had read in a few places that you could use the internal oscillator on the ATmega328.
You *can* use the internal one, but i have heard that it may be less accurate. Additionally, its slower. And you need to adjust some internal fuse bits in the chip to use it (icsp required i think). Unless space or cost are extremely important, its generally better to use an external clock.
The most informative channel for electronics ever! I always search out your channel videos whenever I want to understand each part and detail from the beginning! Keep it Up, Sir!👍
At 14:30, the tune sounds - well, as you say - dissimilar from the London Symphony Orchestra. I can definitely tell the difference. However, it struck me from the moment you laid out the components that the beeper was wrong, because when you supply a voltage to it, it makes its own tone. If you pulse it on and off with, say, 200Hz, you will hear the 200Hz, but each time it is switched on, it will make its natural beep frequency, so you will hear both. I think your tune maker would have worked better with one of those flat speakers that they use in musical greetings cards. They don't make any frequency of their own - they are simple loud speakers - or perhaps "soft" speakers is a more appropriate term.
Now if you replace your FTDI with a HC-05 Bluetooth module, you have uploading over the air... which is just awesome! :) Yes, you do need to configure inverted POLAR on the HC-05... but still, so convenient :)
Can i use this project for My ac motor, because i dont want arduino board but without arduino board can i run the ac motor i have uploaded the code in the board, please reply….
One of the best videos i watched on TH-cam, very informative, organized and answer my question before i even ask, i still have a question though, is there a way to read back the code off the chip ??
your videos are very informative. i am doing electrical engineering and your projects help me a lot learning new things. althought your channel is still in beginning but i hope you make video more often in future.
11:35 That statement doesn't check if the counter is "a multiple of two or if it equals to zero". It divides it by 2 and checks whether the remainder is zero (i.e. whether the number is even). The 0 in the statement doesn't refer to an edge case where the counter itself is 0.
Very nice tutorial. I've been curious about how to use the Arduino code on a standalone circuit board. I didn't realize it was so simple. One thing though, and I'm a little rusty about this. I don't think that connecting the electrolytic capacitor across the power and ground actually works because the power supply is very low impedance, so the capacitor is essentially shorted out at the noise frequencies. To work you need an inductor (preferably), or a small resistor, in series with the +5V. The positive lead of the capacitor then goes on the circuit side of the inductor and the negative lead to ground.
Amazing video sir, I was wondering if you could tell me how you knew what resistor values to use for your leds at 7:30 ? Does the range of 150-300 come from a data sheet, or how did you know those values?
Great video. I’ve been interested in getting into projects that combine my interest in electronics and computers... and this video is a great primer. I just wanted to add for anyone new to these kinds of projects that you’ll want to connect your reset line from your programmer to the low side of your step up resistor (aka the side closest to the DIP).
Finally, a PROFESSIONAL explanation, with a professional quality video, audio, and shop! Many TH-cam videos turn people off with crappy quality in every aspect, but _you_ restore hope in TH-cam professionalism.
th-cam.com/video/fOOgrehTZVg/w-d-xo.html
His workbench is dream of every nerds / hobbyist.
Sorry I'm Late too clean :)
Clearly his favourite colour is blue.
The integrated power supply taps on the bench. No luxury has been left out. Ah I need to do that so badly
It makes me anxious... I do not why because I do want my own bench too look like this than the " throw in two hand grenades and shut the door" it is today.
Hannes Camitz r/ihadastroke
Hi Bill, I was re-watching this video ( as I often do with yours as they are exactly what I need ) and I saw your comment about having 50,000 subscribers in 2018. Then I noticed your current number is 555,000. And very well deserved. All the best from the England/Scotland border, Pete
Wish had this guy for a teacher in School! A great teacher makes all the difference in liking or not in a subject , good job Ser!
As a non native speaker of your language, I appreciate your clear and perfectly understandable language. And the interesting themes of course, too!!
Greetings from Switzerland.
As I've learned recently, there is also a way to program your MC using an Arduino board with flat chip that can't be removed. All you need to do is
1. upload "ArduinoISP" sketch (included in Arduino Studio examples) to Arduino board, thus turning it into an ISP programmer
2. Connect following 6 pins of your recipient MC (check pinout in the datasheet) to corresponding pins of your programmer (Arduino board, note that you might want/need to change the output pins in the "ArduinoISP" sketch code): MOSI, MISO, RESET, SCK, VCC, GND
3. Select "Programmer: Arduino as ISP" in Arduino Studio or similar option in IDE of your choice (I've done it with custom upload protocol in PlatformIO)
4. Upload your sketch as usual.
The video is still very informative, it clarifies the options to burn the firmware into the MC pretty well.
I love how he used 2 cameras and talked to both of them
Now lets go to camera 2
It's pretty good but he's no triple camera guy. :)
Edit: memification aside. The production quality on this video is absolutely top notch. Very well done.
A refreshing and welcome change from all those super hip TH-camrs that think it's so cool to have a secondary shot they're not actually addressing, aka, the crapshot. (Techmoan made a video about this but sadly took it down.)
@@Anvilshock nice bro. 15:00 i actually lol'd haha
I actually found it nauseating and unnecessary. To each their own I guess.
Sometimes you find exactly the video you were looking for, explaining exactly what you want to know. This was it. Thank you.
Finally an electronics youtube channel that actually teaches you something
You are one of the best teacher over TH-cam. I really appreciate your cool way of instructing. Greetings from Nepal.
Please let me that. My IC is working on arduino but not working on breadboard. Everything is all right. Showing issue with Tx and Rx . Why? Please guide me
FAKE! No shops in the real world are that neat and clean. Obviously a green screen hoax. Just kidding . . . really wish I could keep things that organized. This was a great video with valuable content and superb production quality. Great work!
Why you've stopped your new Arduino series?
My workshop is that tidy. Unfortunately my wife tidied up for me and now a can’t find anything.
@@Sidowse. Yep, so I order some more and get told off. It’s even worse when resistor arrays get put in with things like a picaxe cos they are black plastic things with little legs poking out the bottom.
@@tanishbhongade I think Paul makes great videos too!!
Two of the true gentlemen of TH-cam indulging in banter.
For anyone showing up here later. He states that any ATMEGA328PU you find will normally have the bootloader and that's why it has the P or PU designator. That is not correct. The P means it's the low power version of the chip and the U means it is in the DIP package with the through-hole pins like you see on an Arduino UNO. Chips that come with the bootloader preinstalled will state that it has it specifically otherwise they will not. Otherwise these are really pretty good videos and someone starting out can learn a lot from this guy!
I am a retired electrical eng, and I always been excited to still work on electronic project and DSP algorithms, robotics and vintage radio restorations. I discovered your channel lately and I can say that I am amazed to see how clear are your explanations and how clean are your animates sketches bouncing around.....I am greatful for all your time and effort you take to share your vast experiences, you are a great source of inspirations for many electronics state of the art projects.....Michel ( Québec, Canada)
th-cam.com/video/LpZ2xuBj-Yg/w-d-xo.html like and subscribe for details information. I upload full vedio as soon as possible
Check this too th-cam.com/video/fOOgrehTZVg/w-d-xo.html
Just arrived on your channel. I am a newbie at Arduino (not electronics). I really like the way you teach: very slow and calm, good video, good examples and schematics. Despite the fact that I am french It's a true pleasure to listen at you. Congratulations !
Hands down, the best teacher, best videos, and highest production quality on TH-cam that I have seen.
I'm working on my thesis for my grade degree and want to do a robot like thing with arduino and oh man you have helped me so much with many of your videos! I love how you explain everything so smoothly and in a way that even complete begginers will probably be able to follow. Keep it up man! Thanks for the hard work, you just got yourself a new subscriber!
Please let me that. My IC is working on arduino but not working on breadboard. Everything is all right. Showing issue with Tx and Rx . Why? Please guide me
Your videos are great I am new to electronics and find you explain every thing so well, keep them coming. Forgot to tell you I'm 85 years young never to late to start.
Your videos are always well organized and very informative.
Great vid with genuinely useful content. Nice to see a presenter who speaks at a normal, relaxed pace and not targetting 1000 words per minute. Great job. Thanks.
check this th-cam.com/video/fOOgrehTZVg/w-d-xo.html
I built some of these a few years back, as projects, I was just inventorying my chip collection this afternoon and discovered I had several brand new 328's in one tray, as well as some old atmega 8's. Nice review on how to use them again.
Check this too th-cam.com/video/fOOgrehTZVg/w-d-xo.html
To use the surface mount type uno to program a bare atmega328....On the surface mount uno...you can run its reset to ground on the uno board. Run tx and rx lines like you did. From board to atmega328 to be programmed. Then when you upload the code you'll have to manually reset the atmega 328 you're programming manually once by touching its reset pin to ground briefly. Basically this method is isolating the ftdi usb to serial on the uno board by keeping the onboard 328 in a constant state of reset. Great video!
Complete Connection Diagrams
19:30 for running ATmega code standalone (circuit diagram)
28:15 for Arduino to ATmega loading circuit diagram
33:05 for FTDI Adapter to ATmega circuit dagram.
Thanks
You are one of the best teachers of electronics I´ve ever known. Thank you very much for your excellent videos!
check this th-cam.com/video/fOOgrehTZVg/w-d-xo.html
I have decided to buy an Arduino board because of this channel. It's arriving tomorrow from Amazon. Keep posting your stuff, great content
The number of times I've returned to this video! So clear and useful. Thanks.
Criticism but its positive... many N-T people will not have the patience with your delivery. I am A-N-T so i find it almost comforting. Precise and covers everything without rushing and very well illustrated. So, my criticism is about others, and not actually you. Keep up the great work, and i love the 2 camera angles!
Bill, this was a great video! Thank you for sharing. You answered a big question about how to use the ATmega328P as a free standing chip in my project. You are my hero!
One of the best vids on Arduino I’ve seen. This is step 1 in getting your breadboard tinkering to a full product. Thanks for doing this!!
Check this too th-cam.com/video/fOOgrehTZVg/w-d-xo.html
This has to be the clearest thing i hv understood in my life at first try
Great Video !!!
Another good reason to go for the ATmega328 (or any other ATmega chip solution) is that you are not allowed to use an Arduino for commercial projects if you are not willing to release the source code. That said, you are allowed to use the Chip solution in commercial products, like an R2D2 Robot, if Lucasfilm gave you permission to make one.
Awesome Bill, you've done it again to impress me! I've been working recently in the AtMega328, and many of my questions are answered in this video. May the force be with you too Bill. Can't wait for your next video!
th-cam.com/video/LpZ2xuBj-Yg/w-d-xo.html like and subscribe for details information. I upload full vedio as soon as possible
Please let me that. My IC is working on arduino but not working on breadboard. Everything is all right. Showing issue with Tx and Rx . Why? Please guide me
Sir you are the greatest teacher in youtube for electronics
Bill, I have read some of the comments on several of your video presentations and I want to encourage you to not change a thing in your presentations. They are just excellent- if the critics know so much about how to improve on excellence, they should make their own videos. You are one of the few video teachers who are both understandable and can actually teach something without confusing silly personal comments, meaningless explanations, and irrelevant side information- Oh, and without distracting long pauses, and 'errrs" and 'ummms' and "You knows" and endless redundancies and repetitions. And God bless you for not including irritating canned, loud "music"- as the official XOD tutorials do!!! Thanks again- JB
The capacitors required for the crystal depend on the load capacitance specified for the crystal, typically 20pf, that requires 36pf capacitors. The formula is load capacitance minus the stray capacitance ( typically 3 or 4 pf ) and double it. For a 20pf crystal this works out at 36pf capacitors. For the crystal shown in the video the load capacitance must be 22 divided by 2 is 11, minus stray capacitance of 3pf = 8pf.
It is the other way around, here is an example:
C1, C2 = 2*CL - 2*Cstray
CL = (C1+ 2*Cstray)/2 = C1/2+ Cstray
C1 = C2 = 22pf, Cstray = 7pf
CL = 22/2+ 7 = 18pF
When he said "If you have a local electronics store". OMG I miss my long lost neighborhood Radio Shack store. The one from my childhood in the 1960's with all the parts and kits.
I never had an electronics store, i thought they dont even exist anymore..
I am lucky Jameco is only like 25-30 mins from my place
NO JOKE. I am only coming up 20 years old soon, but I remember when I first started to get into hardware, radioshack was... beautifully exciting to me, and I have distinct memories of walking down the aisles and being fascinated by all these plastic boxes with resistors, IC's, wacky sensors, and all that. Going into highschool, the radioshack closed down, and all I had left was this awesome massive breadboard with lots of controls, some kind of starter kit. It had frequency knobs, voltage controls. Unfortunately I lost it, but i'm really smacking myself on the wrist for not getting bigger into it before radioshack went down, because my days are now visiting Amazon, and other websites. I really miss not having the opportunity to go into a local electronics store and browse components, or talk to someone about projects... local 'electronics' stores nowadays are just shitty phone cases and "phone repair" with some third-hand computer parts, and old accessories :(... Nothing close to me can line up with what Radio Shack offered, and I can't find any alternatives near me... maybe i'm looking in the wrong places?
Lemonposting Try Fry’s or Microcenter
Sir, you are best..... you are the one what 21st century embedded system beginners want you as mentor. You are hero for us..... thank you so much sir...
Once again, your shop has got to be one of the neatest and best organized on all of TH-cam!
I just program the chip in the board and then take it out. I've done this dozens of times and the socket is still in good shape. Just put in a new chip that has a boot loader already burned in. Works like a champ.
Great video. A small remark: the leds shown at 7:27 have their internals mirrored. The larger structure inside the LED is in reality connected to the cathode (the short leg).
I agree
Those camera shifts are just beautiful!
i'm just so impressed by that shop organization
I just wrote an e-mail and in the Background started this Video and i immediately recognized you. Such a calm Style of teaching i Love it. Not to mention the actual contect :D great as always
Very valuable info. I am just going to start experimenting with Arduino but I was already thinking on how to shrink the project once it works, and here it is, not just how to shrink it but also how to simplify it.
Dear Bill, Excellent explanation with the iron patience that is explained. I will post my issues about the programming on your forum. One subject missing in the end , How the FTDI module connected to the PC and how programmed with Arduino IDE.
NO DTR/RTS PIN: If for some reason you get a FTDI with no DTR/RTS pin you can still use it. Either look for the datasheet of the driver (CH340 or PL2303 mostly) and bridge it yourself. Or you can program the Atmega328 by putting a button from pin 1 to GND (do not remove the 10k res). Start pressing the button and upload your sketch, when the status changes from Compiling to Uploading, release the button.
Hi, thanks for your excellent video. I have, what maybe be a dumb question, but here goes... I playing around with a project for my allotment and the Nano seems to draw around 100mA making me think I'll need a massive battery (maybe a 12v car unit) for it to last long enough to work. I thought about stripping the components down to only use the ATmega328, but it seems there is no point based on your video as it appears the power consumption will be the same. Is this right? Many thanks, Connor
That is one of the cleanest well stocked shops I have ever seen!!!
the simplest, most effective video ever!! I followed every step and was able to program my at-chips.
Thankyou for taking the time to explain in such detail and making the effort to demonstrate. You have inspired me to explore and learn an entirely new frontier and I'm approaching 54 yrs of age. I am continuoisly amazed at how much the arduino has in common with many of todays appliances and industrial controls. Please keep doing what you do here. I hope you can feel the appreciation from those who follow your channel.
You really connect all the dots - plenty of detail AND the material on the web site.
I haven't yet decided whether to program my project in C or directly in assembly, the latter provided better control and efficiency - especially when using a complex interrupt structure.
Thanks for the wonderful videos - its been 20 years since I was designing uC systems - and the videos are an easy way to 'get my head back into tje game' so to speak.
Your tutorials are absolutely brilliant. You're an amazing teacher.
Nice presentation with very clear, to the point dialogue and professional visuals. Just a few observations: switching between cameras serves no purpose and instead becomes a gimmick that detracts from your message. Choose one camera and stick with it unless you are showing your workbench/hands. Find a longer focal length lens and set up the camera farther away to minimize distortion. Finally, move the camera down to the height of your nose to make you look your correct height. Thanks.
LOL, Yes I found it almost irritating. In the most it was Rather distracting. Kept getting the urge to look over my shoulder ? LOL
Sorry, I have to disagree with you, Dave, and pulsejet. I suffered through a 1 hour MOOC class where the camera never changed. Boooring. Watch any movie or TV show, starting counting when a scene changes, you will rarely get to 20. Why is this done? Several reasons: to keep retakes to a minimum, less script for the actor to memorize, and, of course, to keep the audience from getting bored. I would edit a few of the head turnings out though; otherwise, this guy is one of the best on YT.
OMG! I would have needed you, Sir, 20 years ago at my school time! Thank you so much for your perfectly explained studies! Greetings from Austria!
I should have looked here first. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. Since I have a FTDI already, I will just skip to the last method. Also, I hate pulling big chips out of sockets, I will probably build a programming rig with a ZIF socket just to avoid the hassle of getting the ATMega on and off of the breadboard. Alternatively, I may use an HC05 Bluetooth module and a wireless connection to the computer.
Extremely thorough with multiple options, great to see! Will reference this video when the time comes.
2 years later...
Informative information...
You should have a school/college to teach these things...
Thanks Sir.
Just did a project using the ATmega 328P in school about 2 months ago. Followed posts from Ralph Bacon and Derek Molloy to get the thing working. Then incorporated stuff from Robojax and learn electronics (among others) to create a DIY multimeter with function and tone generator.
Your videos are so organized and very informative. If I have the chance to watch your videos when I was a student. I will be a greate hardware engineer.
I looked at his workshop, layout etc. and started to drool at bit!
Excellent video! It confirmed everything i already suspected about programming the chips.
While watching, it occurred to me that one could replace the standard IC socket on an Arduino UNO board with a ZIF socket to make it easier to switch the ATmega328 ICs. This obviously requires some experience with desoldering/soldering.
After 25 years I'll pick up electronics again. Thanks for the inspiration!
You are a true gentleman, scholar and a life saver sir...Lots of love sir...💐
Bro your vids are advanced knowledge explained basically..
Keep up the great work.
Came to learn how to downsize to a chip.... got a music lesson....well done!!
Very nice video , going to order some chips and move one of my projects to this format. I am building a device to monitor the heated bed on my 3d printer and shut it down if the mosfet fails resulting in a runaway heating . And also shut it down if the temperature reaches a set fail safe . Been using one uno just to drive a display and Sd card reader and another mega to monitor the 3d printer.
Nice! just a quick note- you probably know by now, but in the wiring graphic at the beginning, the buzzer isn't grounded. Keep up the great videos!
@DroneBot Workshop can you please tell me how to power it?
Fantastic! A simple and straight forward intro for transitioning a project past the Arduino build. Really needed this, thanks!
My shop is super organized but you got me beat with that peg board and organizer!!!
Super-duper presentation! And that workshop - don't know how you keep it so neat and tidy. Thank you!
that camera work though. mindblown!
Never let viewer down. Great quality video, help understand in deep, nice voice and explanation. TH-cam need this channel. Next video Shrinking your Esp32 Projects please ?
Great video. I have been thinking about just using the microcontroller to not have to take out the uno for every new project and this has really told me everything i need to know. It was very helpful. It could be a bit more concise though, but it was definitely still worth my time.
If you're getting into this, I recommend buying a programmer such as the TL866 II Plus, which can program a wide variety of microprocessors. No need for an Arduino if you're getting down to the nitty gritty. Plus, there's a such a wide variety of microprocessors on the market, you're not stuck with a version that might not be in stock (especially here in 2022), or one which does a lot more than you need for your application.
although i have no immediate plans to do this, I found your video very informative and well done. You obviously put tons of work into these videos and I thank you
This was exactly what I was searching for! There is not one other video that detailed. Thank you very much!
First of all I wish to thank you a lot Sir...for making this awesome video... I was watching your videos since last 4 years... Your videos are really helpful and gives me detailed knowledge about arduino and other mcu s ... Thank you Sir.
Fantastic demonstration and very informative and helpfull. Some simple ideas that really help! I have now a project where the ATmega328 is build in, and for software updates I now made a module (in which the Arduino UNO is build without the chip), with on one side the USB connection to the computer for programming, and on the other side a 4 wire connection that I can plug in my PCB of my project where the ATmega328 is situated. I skipped the +5V feeding from that module, as my product has his own power, and can even, when running live, be updated if software is again downloaded!! Exelent use of many items in this video! Thanks a lot.Highly appreciate this.
Glad I have the old style with holes. My atmega got magic smoke disease today.... Gladly it has a socket and can be replaced easily.
The. Best. Electronics. Channel. Ever.
A very informative and practical hands-on video, delivered in a calm and confident tone (unlike some other videos I have seen by others). I will definitely continue to follow this channel! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
I recently started learning basic electronics and circuitry. Just wanted to say: This video is insanely educational and helpful. Thank you!
Don't start learning Arduino first, learn the actual electronics like chips 555 timers capacitors resistors.
Hi DroneBot, I'm looking to make a smart device, like a pair of Smart Glasses (as in Google Glass). I know that there are tutorials online about how to use an Arduino Micro or Nano or something to make the Smart Glasses without disassembling it, but the thing is, I want to make the device even SMALLER than that. I want the computer to just be a barebones chip at this point. And the Arduino UNO, well, you can disassemble the ATmega Chip in the centre and use it in standalone projects, and I want to do that.
I haven't done that yet as I'm still trying to learn how to do some stuff like add a voice recognition thing or something, but, hopefully this tutorial will help me when trying to do something like that in the future. So thanks!
As strange as it may be I have never seen a Star Wars movie but I still liked the video. 🤖
I love watching your videos! Too many tutorials these days brush over the details. I really feel like I'm learning from yours instead of just following the steps.
A quick question - is the 16MHz oscillator necessary? I had read in a few places that you could use the internal oscillator on the ATmega328.
You *can* use the internal one, but i have heard that it may be less accurate. Additionally, its slower. And you need to adjust some internal fuse bits in the chip to use it (icsp required i think). Unless space or cost are extremely important, its generally better to use an external clock.
The most informative channel for electronics ever! I always search out your channel videos whenever I want to understand each part and detail from the beginning! Keep it Up, Sir!👍
At 14:30, the tune sounds - well, as you say - dissimilar from the London Symphony Orchestra. I can definitely tell the difference. However, it struck me from the moment you laid out the components that the beeper was wrong, because when you supply a voltage to it, it makes its own tone. If you pulse it on and off with, say, 200Hz, you will hear the 200Hz, but each time it is switched on, it will make its natural beep frequency, so you will hear both. I think your tune maker would have worked better with one of those flat speakers that they use in musical greetings cards. They don't make any frequency of their own - they are simple loud speakers - or perhaps "soft" speakers is a more appropriate term.
Now if you replace your FTDI with a HC-05 Bluetooth module, you have uploading over the air... which is just awesome! :) Yes, you do need to configure inverted POLAR on the HC-05... but still, so convenient :)
Congratulations on the clarity of thought, the superb schematics, you must be putting an awful lot of time in preparing these videos. Respect. 🙏🏻
check this th-cam.com/video/fOOgrehTZVg/w-d-xo.html
Very nice video. Just a small correction, on the ATmega328p there is indeed just only one ADC and an 8 outputs internal multiplexer.
Echoing what everyone else has said; thank you for putting these videos together and sharing your wealth of knowledge with strangers.
Just came across this channel. Instant subscription! Nice authentic quality content!
Can i use this project for
My ac motor, because i dont want arduino board
but without arduino board can i run the ac motor
i have uploaded the code in the board, please reply….
One of the best videos i watched on TH-cam, very informative, organized and answer my question before i even ask, i still have a question though, is there a way to read back the code off the chip ??
your videos are very informative.
i am doing electrical engineering and your projects help me a lot learning new things.
althought your channel is still in beginning but i hope you make video more often in future.
11:35 That statement doesn't check if the counter is "a multiple of two or if it equals to zero". It divides it by 2 and checks whether the remainder is zero (i.e. whether the number is even). The 0 in the statement doesn't refer to an edge case where the counter itself is 0.
Very nice tutorial. I've been curious about how to use the Arduino code on a standalone circuit board. I didn't realize it was so simple.
One thing though, and I'm a little rusty about this. I don't think that connecting the electrolytic capacitor across the power and ground actually works because the power supply is very low impedance, so the capacitor is essentially shorted out at the noise frequencies. To work you need an inductor (preferably), or a small resistor, in series with the +5V. The positive lead of the capacitor then goes on the circuit side of the inductor and the negative lead to ground.
Amazing video sir, I was wondering if you could tell me how you knew what resistor values to use for your leds at 7:30
? Does the range of 150-300 come from a data sheet, or how did you know those values?
OK, I will like this video now. I never think that it is easy until I watched your video. Thank you!
Great video. I’ve been interested in getting into projects that combine my interest in electronics and computers... and this video is a great primer.
I just wanted to add for anyone new to these kinds of projects that you’ll want to connect your reset line from your programmer to the low side of your step up resistor (aka the side closest to the DIP).