IH Hydro 84 Wheel Bearings
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2017
- I repacked the bearings last year, however, that should have been a sign we didn't have much time left on these bearings. Also, we didn't suspect an issue for a very long time, thinking the floppy wheel was just loose tie rod ends. Lets see if we can fix this abused mess, YaY FRONT END LOADERS!
I picked up the same machine with same loader this year. Enjoying your videos.
Also... just cause Craftsman has a lifetime guarantee doesn't mean you shouldn't use the right tool for the job! haha
Looks like a fun job. Always feel good to get those things taken care of!
This was a terminal project. The wheel probably could have fallen off if we didn't fix it.
Ok, two things to never do. 1. Never put on a race with a pipe that doesn't fit around the outside of the race, you do not want to jeopardies the machined surface where the bearing will ride. You can carefully take a punch and tap around the outside of the race (yes its hard to get bite with the punch on such a skinny surface but if its your only option it can be done) until it bottoms out if you don't have a pipe or socket that fits. 2. The inner bearing is installed in the hub and the seal is tapped into the hub before the hub goes on the spindle. If the hub doesn't have lip for the seal to bottom out against just be sure you are flush or just inside the back of the hub. Also put a wipe of grease on the seals rubber sealing lip before installing the hub and a bit on the spindle wouldn't be bad either. Its nice watching how you guys work so well together.
After inspecting all our wagons, wheel seals come as two types; some sit solidly on the axle, others are tight to the hub; This set was tight to the axle. Don't know why one style is used over the other.
If you take a front axle from an old four-wheel drive tractor, it holds better on a tractor with a front loader, it doesn't have to be driving anymore. They have much larger ball bearings and are more robust. Just a tip from a subscriber.
Jacob and Brad a job well done and a nice video.
Thank you.
Grease zerks on hubs are ALWAYS a good idea... flush the dirt and mess out of the back of the bearing and keep it full of fresh grease. Later! OL J R :)
After that you should be good for another year or two. Good video guys.
I hope to five or more years out of wheel bearings on the front of loader tractors, hopefully.
Keep em coming!!
We never stop.
Good video. Thanks for taking the time to do videos.
I would say that is a sucessfull tear down. No cussing, that is nice. Only broke a Craftsman screwdriver which is warrantied for life, just take it back and they will give you a new one.
I had a 1840 Case skid steer. good machine but has limits. Only goes so fast, you would need to trailer it to the field. Only lift 1200lbs or so. I love the quick tach bucket, change any attachment in less than 2 minutes. I upgraded to a NH L785. I love the ford diesel and the higher lift cap.It i harder to change the bucket, but still quicker than 4 pins. Either would load or unload hay and scrape/load manure quicker than your tractor. 1840 is quite a lot jumpier than the NH.Bucket on my NH is probably bigger than the one on your IH. NH ha 2 speed so it would go on the road about 12 mph. There was a NH L785 on KC craigslist for under $10k yesterday. Keep it up is the name of the game!
Yep, that's why I keep mostly craftsman tools. In my limited skid steer search, I did like the pre electronic age and engine options of an L785, but with their age, it might be hard to find one in decent condition. As far as quick attach buckets, we have a set of forks to put in our current bucket that only needs one pin to hold it.
Same here. I like the pre-computer age equipment. My hammer don't work well on those computer controls. Did you get the front end all back together? I think you did well to notice the bearing out on the tractor. I had bearings go out on a disc wheel that broke the cast hub. Yours sure could have been a much more expensive repair.
It is quite easy to build a hydraulic press from a jack and heavy angle iron.
I have made some, but it will be long transport. I live in Sweden.
The gear versions of those tractors work nice. Reverse and low are on the same throw so shuttling isn't too bad as long as you don't need to change speeds. Sometimes all the hydro needs is just the pressures turned up a bid to make them back to what they should be
We had a 684 before we got the Hydro.
The loader looks to be in good shape, if it was me, to save the most money, I would look for a tractor from 574 up to 885 at a reasonable price, put your loader on it then save the 84 for light duty jobs close to home. I wouldn't want to pay the bill to repair the hydro, I don't think it's worth much without the loader so I would keep it. Plus if the hydro does give out completely, then you have a spare engine and axles, tires etc for your loader tractor. May just be the pa dutch talking though.
The Hydro 84s I see on tractor house are usually well abused and low priced. Since ours still has a grill and the lights work, I'd like to think it's in better shape than most. If possible, I would like to keep the loader since we have solidified the bucket and have a fork system I like.
Wheel bearing just go out . The elements just get into them . What ever you put into that tractor you will get a return Most of the parts are made overseas so you will have a nice little rice burner there 🚜
If you are not in a hurry you can put the bearing races in the freezer for a few hours and shrink them. Makes driving them in a lot easier, also if you have a machine shop close you could have taken both hubs to them and have them repair the damaged hub.before you install the new races.
Yea, I know about the freezer trick, I mostly forget unless its a super tight fit.
I got lucky with my 684 just had to repack bearings. Steering could use attention maybe this winter. If had the money I'd buy your 84 as a dedicated loader tractor.
Start saving your pennies. I imagine most loader tractors will have very loose steering connections.
If you keep the 2250 loader you can get a SS adapter (tool carrier) from Mast Farm Services in Walnut Creek Ohio
The 2250 is the best quick attaching loader, I can leave it on uneven ground, it doesn't require stands, and it will slide right on.
My buddies put the SS adapter on their 1086 and it is so much more useful swapping attachments now
nice vid. :) if i had the money i'd buy that 84.. i'd have no problem running it..
Start saving your pennies.
been trying. :)
Use brake cleaner in spray can to clean grease !! Works great!!!
I think we've a few cans around.
we have gehl 4840 and never had a single problem with it
I'll research them.
Put some grease zerks in my JD came with zerks on front bearings.
I have been putting grease zerks on all the wagon wheels. I thought about it for this project, but since the loader tractor sees manure, I'm afraid the zerks will rust and/or let moisture in.
@@boehmfarm4276 They might rust, but not let moisture in... better to keep it full of grease than full of manure LOL:) Grease is cheap repairs are expensive! LOL:) OL J R : )
I would recommend a J I Case 770 with a loader so you can do more work than the little 84
A bigger tractor won't be very comfy scooping out the barn.
It is a little bit smaller than a 1086 and open station is the most common with this model.
plus you can put a bale spear on the loader of a 770 so you can have one on the road and 1 at home since you do not trust the hydro on the road.
Were did brad get them shoes lol
If you go for a skid steer look at a case 85xt or look at a bobcat i have drove both at work in scrap yard and i like the case 85xt better all hand controls bobcat is hand for steering and foot pedals for bucket we have another case not sure of size ok but smaller and has grapple bucket but we got a brand new kubota ssv75 to replace the case needs work to fix
The foot controls for the bucket do worry me on some models. I have heard that is the reason for some skid steer accidents.
Boehm Farm. foot controls yes and no the kubota is foot too but it just takes time to get used to not bad but 85xt case and our newer still older case have all hand controls which i like better but i can do a good job with foot controls to just takes time to get used to man that farms my gpas has john deeres loves them got to replace old old deisel gehl.
scrap yard i worked at in dayton has john deeres and before i quit they got 2 nice used cat skid steeres but never ran them so look around test some out see what you like
the rubber side of the seal is always the side that rotates on the spindle, never the outside ( steel doesn't slide on steel ), and you shouldn't have a press fit on your inner bearing race, that race needs to be able to spin on the spindle some. I'm thinking the far east made bearings aren't quite to the same spec as the old made in the USA spindle. not uncommon.
Except this one uses a seal that the steel part of the seal drives onto the spindle, with the rubber sealing lips sliding in the outer edge of the hub. Exactly backwards from everything else I've ever seen. If you look carefully when he's driving on the seal, you'll see the steel center of the seal is driven onto the spindle, and the three rubber sealing lips that ride just inside the lip of the hub to create the seal. Weird but I guess it keeps stuff from wrapping and pushing in under the seal and cutting it, at least in theory. And, NO you don't want your inner bearing races turning on the spindle, not unless you like replacing spindles. A spinning race will ruin a shaft or hub either way, seen it plenty of times. The BEARING is supposed to turn, NOT THE RACES! OL J R :)
👍👌🇨🇦❤
you know them races if you throw them in the freezer for like 24 hrs they will shrink just a fraction but that fraction makes a world of difference in installing they will believe it or not basically drop in and as they come back to room temp they will expand to original size and stay in.
That's a great idea. For some reason, I have never done that with wheel bearings, but have used that trick for other tight fits.
I didn't know you were a fan of the lego movie lol!!
Absolutely!! I made all sorts of farm equipment from legos when I was younger.
Still got this tractor?
Yes, do you want it?
@@boehmfarm4276 What's wrong with it and why would you sell it
if you looking for a good loder tractor get a versitial bidirectional or get a jhondeeer with a shuttle shift
I always thought the bi directional looked cool, but the cab would be an issue for cleaning the barn. Number one rule of Boehm Farm, no green. I really want a 30 series Ford with a shuttle shift and front wheel assist.
+Boehm F arm you have green thoe lol
Yes, rather begrudgingly. And it's caused it's share of nuisance.
2250 loader just keep you 84 for farm yard work and just find you a set of 2250 Brackets for your 1086 or 1466 lol then you have another tractor to throw the loader on it you did not want to use the 584 lol
Um, I have a sneaky feeling that the bigger tractors are wider, that's why IH made a 2350 loader.
the 2250, 2350,and 2450 were all quick attach/detach loaders, designed pretty similarly. the 2250 was built for the small frame tractors. i have 2250s on 656s and my 784. the 2350 is heavier built for the large frame tractors and more lift capacity. the 2450 was the same as the 2350 except it would lift a lot higher than the 2350.
you need to know how to do it first
Need to wear some gloves - suggestion only
Once winter comes, then it's glove time.
It's brutal to watch you do bearings. The seal gets mounted on the hub and lip lubed so it slides over lip. My god you did that ass backwards and the seal will not work. Get on youtube and watch a professional do a repack. You need a used hub for the worn off one.
Ya know, more than one manufacturer made machines with wheels and wheel bearings. I went through gravity wagon wheel bearing last year to repack them and came across seals fixed to the axle and seals fixed to the hub, it's just whatever the engineer was feeling that day.