As a novice mechanic who is slowly building a collection of vintage bikes in retirement, I generally stay away from projects which could kill me if done wrong. After watching your Parts 1 & 2 several times I just finished replacing the front brake lines and caliper on my '73 CB 750, took it for a test ride and, remarkably, I am still alive. 😅Excellent, clearly done, video. Thanks for taking the time !
Pro tip. Protect your painted surfaces with rags. Dot 3 will eat paint. Keep sprayer bottle filed with water handy for when fluid gets on paint. Wash it off quickly.
Brenden - I've had trouble in the past purging the brake line when installing a new master cylinder. But your technique worked like a charm. The brake line purged pretty quickly - and cleanly - which made the caliper bleeding go just as you showed it. And the new setup, all from CMC, works great. Thanks for this, and all of your videos.
Thanks for all of these vids. I am no longer in fear of the unknown and I see a source for parts. The rebuild of a 1972 carb was a great full swan dive into the guts of the thing.
Brilliant! Many thanks for producing and sharing this, very much appreciated. Both Parts 1 & 2, superb! I'm doing the front brake on my 1975 Honda CB500T and your video tutorial is a massive help!
This may be a silly question, but I noticed that the banjo bolts have holes in them. Do they need to line up in a certain fashion to be able to get brake fluid flowing freely? Thanks in advance, and keep up the great work.
Pro tip don’t bleed line back to master cyl. Fill, place line on caliper bleeder screw and allow to gravity bleed. Reusing fluid can bring micro air bubbles into the system. Always use fresh clean fluid.
My brake pads sucked right up to the rotor after following this video religiously. I have no idea how to get the pads to back off. Even after attempting to bleed again it doesn't change the pad distance from the rotor. The caliper swing arm is fine and well lubed so it's not that either. Any suggestions?
Have a ‘81 CB750C that has maxed out the rear brake drum wear (~141mm) and needs fixed. Bought another from ebay, yet had the same issue of wear, as probably most are. I’ve heard of relining, heating the hub and freezing the new liner then letting it come to room temperature. Or drilling holes in hub to weld in a new liner. Others I’ve heard won’t touch the issue because of liability. It has comstar wheels. What do I do?🤷🏻♂️
Why can’t you just bleed the system thru the bleeder? Seems like the moment you take your finger off the end of the hard line while connecting it will immediately start sucking air?
I followed your guidance, but the system has not purged. It seems like the lines purged and when I reconnected the lines that is where it ended. Any recommendations as to where to go from here? I did rebuild the master cylinder and it worked to push out the old, stuck piston, but after a couple of months of sitting it doesn't work now.
I'd check a few things! First, it's possible the master cylinder isn't releasing pressure on the pad but if it's been rebuilt or recently replaced then that's probably not the culprit. The caliper swing-arm could need grease and to be properly adjusted. The brake pads themselves can get stuck also, we using recommend a bit of brake caliper grease or any brake grease around the outside edge
Don't agree with your bleeding method - too much chance of getting brake fluid on the new pads. Install all the lines and bleed. Yes, without a pressure or vac device it takes longer but, IMO a safer way to do it.
Well the cb200 actually has a cable driven front caliper/disk brake. It’s a very unique system that isn’t easy to find replacement parts for currently but we’re working on sourcing them. As far as cheaper alternative we always recommend buying quality parts, the brake system is the most important safety system on your bike
Hi Common Motor Collective, hope it is not a too stupid question :) I can't seem to find where you installed the pressure switch for the frontlight. Is that just any common switch and where in the Master Cylinder Hydralic setup would you put it in?
The pressure switch is only for the rear brake light which is probably what you meant. I found mine when I took the unit apart. You have to disconnect the part of the switch that (on mine) is a spring which goes through a hole in the casting of the master cylinder and connects to the switch. It is located next to where the brake lever is attached.
The similar-era disk brakes are not going to be much of an upgrade actually. The SL350 is also meant to have the drum in the front due to it being an offroad-designed bike. Switching it out would require a significant amount of additional parts and weight to end up with a brake that is no better. A well setup and tuned front drum with fresh shoes does a better job than you would expect in stopping these bikes.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I truly hope you guys know how much these videos help first time builders! I feel like i'm watching and re-watching a common motor vid 3-4 times daily
As a novice mechanic who is slowly building a collection of vintage bikes in retirement, I generally stay away from projects which could kill me if done wrong. After watching your Parts 1 & 2 several times I just finished replacing the front brake lines and caliper on my '73 CB 750, took it for a test ride and, remarkably, I am still alive. 😅Excellent, clearly done, video. Thanks for taking the time !
Pro tip. Protect your painted surfaces with rags. Dot 3 will eat paint. Keep sprayer bottle filed with water handy for when fluid gets on paint. Wash it off quickly.
Brenden - I've had trouble in the past purging the brake line when installing a new master cylinder. But your technique worked like a charm. The brake line purged pretty quickly - and cleanly - which made the caliper bleeding go just as you showed it. And the new setup, all from CMC, works great. Thanks for this, and all of your videos.
Thanks for all of these vids. I am no longer in fear of the unknown and I see a source for parts. The rebuild of a 1972 carb was a great full swan dive into the guts of the thing.
Thanks man! You've given me the confidence to rebuild the stock brakes on my ol' 550 café racer project.
Great video and explanation!
Pro Tip: a little teflon tape on the bleeder screw keeps it from sucking air. 🤠
Always informative. Now I have to take my newly rebuilt caliper off and do it the right way. :)
That split screen process was so nice to see! OCD cup filled for the day lol
Excellent help video, thanks keeps us bikers safe😊
these videos are simil for perfection.
one shall be very carefull with this since braking be a very important thing.
Brilliant! Many thanks for producing and sharing this, very much appreciated. Both Parts 1 & 2, superb! I'm doing the front brake on my 1975 Honda CB500T and your video tutorial is a massive help!
Interesantísimo video tutorial para inexpertos como yo. Gracias!!!
Love these super helpful videos. Keep them coming!
This may be a silly question, but I noticed that the banjo bolts have holes in them. Do they need to line up in a certain fashion to be able to get brake fluid flowing freely? Thanks in advance, and keep up the great work.
Thank you! Great video. Just followed this on my CB400F
Sir
Thank you so much. I'm beyond grateful.
Great job!!!, but while you are on it why don’t rebuild the master cylinder?
They have 2 videos devoted to that.
Excellent video, thanks a lot! Helped well on my 400 Four
Could you replace master cylinder lid to stop fluid flow? After purging and re-fitting hard line,
Pro tip don’t bleed line back to master cyl. Fill, place line on caliper bleeder screw and allow to gravity bleed. Reusing fluid can bring micro air bubbles into the system. Always use fresh clean fluid.
I use a large syringe attached to the bleeder screw with rubber tubing and push fluid, and air, up through the system.
My brake pads sucked right up to the rotor after following this video religiously. I have no idea how to get the pads to back off. Even after attempting to bleed again it doesn't change the pad distance from the rotor. The caliper swing arm is fine and well lubed so it's not that either. Any suggestions?
So helpful thanks for the video
Have a ‘81 CB750C that has maxed out the rear brake drum wear (~141mm) and needs fixed. Bought another from ebay, yet had the same issue of wear, as probably most are. I’ve heard of relining, heating the hub and freezing the new liner then letting it come to room temperature. Or drilling holes in hub to weld in a new liner. Others I’ve heard won’t touch the issue because of liability. It has comstar wheels. What do I do?🤷🏻♂️
Excellent guy very detailed
Why can’t you just bleed the system thru the bleeder? Seems like the moment you take your finger off the end of the hard line while connecting it will immediately start sucking air?
I followed your guidance, but the system has not purged. It seems like the lines purged and when I reconnected the lines that is where it ended. Any recommendations as to where to go from here? I did rebuild the master cylinder and it worked to push out the old, stuck piston, but after a couple of months of sitting it doesn't work now.
I appreciate the info. What's happening if the pads don't retract and there is drag on the wheel? Thanks for the help
I'd check a few things! First, it's possible the master cylinder isn't releasing pressure on the pad but if it's been rebuilt or recently replaced then that's probably not the culprit. The caliper swing-arm could need grease and to be properly adjusted. The brake pads themselves can get stuck also, we using recommend a bit of brake caliper grease or any brake grease around the outside edge
Thank you for taking the time to respond, I'll try what you recommended.
Don't agree with your bleeding method - too much chance of getting brake fluid on the new pads. Install all the lines and bleed. Yes, without a pressure or vac device it takes longer but, IMO a safer way to do it.
Thank you so much for posting this
Very informative. Maybe the on youtube.
does your plunger come straight back as your pumping weather fully connected or just bleeding the system . mine doesnt . ?
I love it I just got a 74 cb200, but is there a cheaper alternative to these parts for a hydraulic build?
Well the cb200 actually has a cable driven front caliper/disk brake. It’s a very unique system that isn’t easy to find replacement parts for currently but we’re working on sourcing them. As far as cheaper alternative we always recommend buying quality parts, the brake system is the most important safety system on your bike
Brilliant Brendan!
How can I order new master cylinder and resivours for a 1972 honda 450?
Hi Common Motor Collective, hope it is not a too stupid question :) I can't seem to find where you installed the pressure switch for the frontlight. Is that just any common switch and where in the Master Cylinder Hydralic setup would you put it in?
The pressure switch is only for the rear brake light which is probably what you meant. I found mine when I took the unit apart. You have to disconnect the part of the switch that (on mine) is a spring which goes through a hole in the casting of the master cylinder and connects to the switch. It is located next to where the brake lever is attached.
Is it OK to use DOT4?
No, only use DOT 3/ DOT 3 synthetic
I am using DOT 4 without any issues.
is dot 4 ok
Is it possible to get a disk brake setup on a 1971 sl350 with a rear drum brake? Is there a wheel and stuff that will work if anybody knows?
The similar-era disk brakes are not going to be much of an upgrade actually. The SL350 is also meant to have the drum in the front due to it being an offroad-designed bike. Switching it out would require a significant amount of additional parts and weight to end up with a brake that is no better. A well setup and tuned front drum with fresh shoes does a better job than you would expect in stopping these bikes.
@@Common-motor Mainly concerned about the rear as it barely does works and has new shoes in it. The front brake works well