I just wanted to take a moment to thank you for all the quality content you put up. Being a complete novice that took on a CB550, it's nice to know there's someone uploading that really does know what they're talking. (I'm not saying you're the only one, but definitely the best that I've found).
One of my favorite Hondas from back in the day ('65), 4 speed. Would enjoy having one now, just the right size for an older bloke like me. Honda was such good machinery to come along. Reusable gaskets, etc., made servicing a nice bit of effective labor.
You are lucky to be able to undo the oil drain plug, On my two CB450's and my CB500T even a meter long Johnson bar was not enough to break it loose. Read about same issue in a 1975 road test.
Good work, I have spent many hours getting the gear selector right on my Classic Royal Enfield following a gearbox bearing and clutch plate upgrade. The smallest adjustment will make the difference between loss of top gear, first gear or simply jumping out of gear. I have managed to make the gearshift as slick as a Suzuki but it was simply taking the time. Adjusting the end float may have moved a wear patch on the shaft away from a bush.
My 1973 CB450 had the same issues the selector forks bend really easily if you have a fall on the left side and if you keep riding the dogs on the gear wears causes jumping out of gear problems. I had the bike from new from my learners
Bought my 1972 CB450 at the beginning of may. 6100 miles on the odometer. Only issue i have with shifting is sometimes when i go to second, after a few seconds it might pop back to neutral and i have to select back to second. always fine the second time. maybe just wearing something back in after sitting so long? i have never torn into it like you have with yours yet.
Have you tried rotating the wheel as you attempted to go through the gear changes? It’s not supposed to be able to go through the gears if the shafts aren’t rotating.
A soft mallet might have been better/safer to use to tap the engine case? I've seen guys used hammers to tap a bit too hard and cracked or dented the engine parts before.
It usually comes down to a small spring somewhere, when there is nothing obviously broken. If I'm going in that far I'd generally replace any spring even if they aren't suspect. They usually don't cost much, but the hassle to get to them in comparison is significant.
I did check them and they were all in place and firm. I was thinking the same thing before I removed the side case. Do you think they're U/S and should be replaced anyway?
I don't know how long the strip down took you Andy, but from a Moto Guzzi point of view it seemed simple. My MG B750 has a ticking time bomb in the box for about 5% of the bikes out there. It is a < 1 USD spring that when it lets go, means stripping the bike down, (separate gearbox bolted on the arse end of the engine with single plate dry Fiat 500 derived clutch on the end) so I'm always tempted to replace all springs, whether they look good or not. My experience is that I can't tell a spring that is about to fail, but that may just be me lol! That is just down to my experience with Guzzis, so that's why I would do this. Nothing worse than spending 2 full days work to replace a low cost item. That Honda is a different beast though. Don't worry about it now, you got it sorted! Sounded really nice on the test ride by the way! I'd just forget about it. If it happens again then I'd replace them, but as it is now, it isn't broke, so no need to fix it. I'm no gearbox expert either but I KNOW that springs are the work of Saten. LMAO!
Also, if you are a bit skint, you can easily make new ones out of MIG wire. Can't remember which channel I saw that on, but this bloke can do anything with that stuff! Moon-something I think his name is.
I'm pretty sure I now know what the problem was/is. The strip down was only 30 to 40 mins if you don't count the dicking about with bloody lights mics and cameras. There is a strong centering spring on the main selector shaft that runs from the gear lever on the other side of the bike. It had come disengaged from it's "centering" tab on the shaft due to the amount of free play in the shaft. I didn't think much of it at the time as I assumed that I had done this while disassembling and I just slipped it back into position. I bodged up a temporary spacer between the gear lever and the case to reduce the free play until I can find the time to pop the LHS case off and see if the circlip is either a) fitted or b) missing all together. Going for a ride tomorrow with a mate and I may take the Honda, if I can be bothered shuffling bikes and taking it back off the lift at 7:30AM. It's not a cost issue, but I would hate to dump $45 worth of MOTUL oil for nothing.
Intermission 🤣 I hate when you take something apart that needs fixing, don't find anything, put it together and its fixed. Bugs me cause I always think the problem is still there since I didn't fix it. I've had that a few times. rsm8
I suspect that my issues are with either a worn selector drum or forks. If your external assembly is okay then I would suggest that yours too is inside the case.
I know it’s been a awhile now, but did you shim the gear selector shaft so it pulls outward or so it pushes back in towards the engine? I’m having issues with mine getting stuck and then the gear lever slaps my foot.
The problem was that the circlip which is located behind the cover on the left hand side of the engine had popped out of the groove. After replacing it I placed a washer between the gear lever and the case and it never failed again. Sadly I had to sell that bike 😢
Hello Andy, I had the same issue with my cl350 motor, come to find out after I had disassemble the motor it was the locking pin for the selector drum that had punched through the case somehow, I guess with enough vibration it can..& absolutely does happen, if that locking pin is loose upon reassembly.. you better epoxy that sucker in! If you don't it can vibrate and punch through the case, if I had caught this I would have just needed to epoxy it back in, and shifting problem would have been solved! So if anyone out there is having the same issue, check that area!!!
@@ANDY5 no way! You let her go brother??? I'm surprised you did! It seemed like you really liked her, I just picked one up, a 73 CB450 project for 600$ with a clean title, she does need work with the electrical, but not bad for only 600, will you be buying yourself another one? And why did you let her go?? If you don't mind me asking...
I just wanted to take a moment to thank you for all the quality content you put up.
Being a complete novice that took on a CB550, it's nice to know there's someone uploading that really does know what they're talking. (I'm not saying you're the only one, but definitely the best that I've found).
That's very kind of you mate, thanks for watching
I fucking love AVE and Mustie1 they have some great content for sure!!!
One of my favorite Hondas from back in the day ('65), 4 speed. Would enjoy having one now, just the right size for an older bloke like me. Honda was such good machinery to come along. Reusable gaskets, etc., made servicing a nice bit of effective labor.
Good Video; well explained. Seeing you tackle jobs like that give me (and I'm sure others) confidence to do work on my own bike. Best Regards Paul.
You are lucky to be able to undo the oil drain plug, On my two CB450's and my CB500T even a meter long Johnson bar was not enough to break it loose. Read about same issue in a 1975 road test.
Good work, I have spent many hours getting the gear selector right on my Classic Royal Enfield following a gearbox bearing and clutch plate upgrade. The smallest adjustment will make the difference between loss of top gear, first gear or simply jumping out of gear. I have managed to make the gearshift as slick as a Suzuki but it was simply taking the time. Adjusting the end float may have moved a wear patch on the shaft away from a bush.
My 1973 CB450 had the same issues the selector forks bend really easily if you have a fall on the left side and if you keep riding the dogs on the gear wears causes jumping out of gear problems. I had the bike from new from my learners
Really nicely put together video m8, that camera work was second to none. Glad you got the issue sorted.
Top work Andy, love seeing the older bikes being worked on and riden, thanks for sharing mate.
Oi ive got the same problem, i was about to pull all that shit apart too but you saved me some time. i had a zip tie around it to shim it up!
Got ta love de old Honda,s great to see you on de tools and winning Andy 👍😆
Bought my 1972 CB450 at the beginning of may. 6100 miles on the odometer. Only issue i have with shifting is sometimes when i go to second, after a few seconds it might pop back to neutral and i have to select back to second. always fine the second time. maybe just wearing something back in after sitting so long? i have never torn into it like you have with yours yet.
Have you tried rotating the wheel as you attempted to go through the gear changes? It’s not supposed to be able to go through the gears if the shafts aren’t rotating.
Very interesting Andy . All the best Bob from England.
A soft mallet might have been better/safer to use to tap the engine case? I've seen guys used hammers to tap a bit too hard and cracked or dented the engine parts before.
When fitting the pedal it’seasy to push the rod sideways in ways that impairs the shifting.
love the sound of the old Honda mate ...... vroooooom
You should have replaced that little spring Andy, its the source of your trouble. I did that same repair on my CL 450 years ago.
It usually comes down to a small spring somewhere, when there is nothing obviously broken. If I'm going in that far I'd generally replace any spring even if they aren't suspect. They usually don't cost much, but the hassle to get to them in comparison is significant.
I did check them and they were all in place and firm. I was thinking the same thing before I removed the side case. Do you think they're U/S and should be replaced anyway?
I don't know how long the strip down took you Andy, but from a Moto Guzzi point of view it seemed simple. My MG B750 has a ticking time bomb in the box for about 5% of the bikes out there. It is a < 1 USD spring that when it lets go, means stripping the bike down, (separate gearbox bolted on the arse end of the engine with single plate dry Fiat 500 derived clutch on the end) so I'm always tempted to replace all springs, whether they look good or not. My experience is that I can't tell a spring that is about to fail, but that may just be me lol! That is just down to my experience with Guzzis, so that's why I would do this. Nothing worse than spending 2 full days work to replace a low cost item. That Honda is a different beast though.
Don't worry about it now, you got it sorted! Sounded really nice on the test ride by the way!
I'd just forget about it. If it happens again then I'd replace them, but as it is now, it isn't broke, so no need to fix it. I'm no gearbox expert either but I KNOW that springs are the work of Saten. LMAO!
Also, if you are a bit skint, you can easily make new ones out of MIG wire. Can't remember which channel I saw that on, but this bloke can do anything with that stuff! Moon-something I think his name is.
I'm pretty sure I now know what the problem was/is. The strip down was only 30 to 40 mins if you don't count the dicking about with bloody lights mics and cameras. There is a strong centering spring on the main selector shaft that runs from the gear lever on the other side of the bike. It had come disengaged from it's "centering" tab on the shaft due to the amount of free play in the shaft. I didn't think much of it at the time as I assumed that I had done this while disassembling and I just slipped it back into position. I bodged up a temporary spacer between the gear lever and the case to reduce the free play until I can find the time to pop the LHS case off and see if the circlip is either a) fitted or b) missing all together. Going for a ride tomorrow with a mate and I may take the Honda, if I can be bothered shuffling bikes and taking it back off the lift at 7:30AM. It's not a cost issue, but I would hate to dump $45 worth of MOTUL oil for nothing.
Intermission 🤣
I hate when you take something apart that needs fixing, don't find anything, put it together and its fixed. Bugs me cause I always think the problem is still there since I didn't fix it. I've had that a few times.
rsm8
Oh I believe that I do know where the problem is, I'm just blissfully in denial
Great video. Are you doing any more videos on this bike? Really helped me a lot
Sorry mate but I have sadly sold this bike.
@@ANDY5 ahh that's a shame, well I'll subscribe anyway. Have a great day 👍👍
Very helpful video! I'm working on a 1974 CB125 currently. Does anyone know why my shifter will only take me up to second gear then stop??
I suspect that my issues are with either a worn selector drum or forks. If your external assembly is okay then I would suggest that yours too is inside the case.
Were exactly did u shim it mine is doing the same thing after I inspected the clutch
I know it’s been a awhile now, but did you shim the gear selector shaft so it pulls outward or so it pushes back in towards the engine?
I’m having issues with mine getting stuck and then the gear lever slaps my foot.
The problem was that the circlip which is located behind the cover on the left hand side of the engine had popped out of the groove. After replacing it I placed a washer between the gear lever and the case and it never failed again. Sadly I had to sell that bike 😢
Is this the same setup as a 1975 500t I have the same issue going on
Did u figure it out? An they say the 350s an 500ts are pretty similar
Those pipes look new Andy. Can I ask where you picked them up?
Factory original mate, the silencers are not perfect with some dents and rust on the underside.
Aftermarket ones I bought don't fit
Any body can tell what's that guitar music? From where I can get it.
Hello Andy, I had the same issue with my cl350 motor, come to find out after I had disassemble the motor it was the locking pin for the selector drum that had punched through the case somehow, I guess with enough vibration it can..& absolutely does happen, if that locking pin is loose upon reassembly.. you better epoxy that sucker in! If you don't it can vibrate and punch through the case, if I had caught this I would have just needed to epoxy it back in, and shifting problem would have been solved! So if anyone out there is having the same issue, check that area!!!
Thanks mate. I actually sold that bike about a year ago, was sad to let it go.
@@ANDY5 no way! You let her go brother??? I'm surprised you did! It seemed like you really liked her, I just picked one up, a 73 CB450 project for 600$ with a clean title, she does need work with the electrical, but not bad for only 600, will you be buying yourself another one? And why did you let her go?? If you don't mind me asking...
I thought I would never sell it either. We just simply needed the money. Will I buy another? Who knows?
@@ANDY5 well what does a project cb350 or 450 go for out there down under?
Always interesting to see inside the guts!
Great work.
Ah,, loosen the brake adj. and back off; Then block the pedal down out of the way. Good luck..>
What is the tool at 9:30?
This makes me wanna pull my Honda apart just for the sake of it 🤣🤣🤣
GD job..very informative..
....hmmm...as someone who definitely has never seen AvE I'd have to say that that vidgeo was skookum as frig....
lol
Thhhhhapy Thhhap Thhhhap tap-tap