Smell Gas From RV Furnace But It Won't Start -- Solve This Issue Here -- My RV Works
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2022
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My RV Works, Inc., Certified RV Technician, Darren Koepp, continues to answer viewer questions about common RV issues.
Robert has an issue with his Atwood Furnace. He is smelling LP gas when he attempts to start his RV's furnace, but the furnace won't start. He is trying to figure out what could be the issue?
Join Darren as he tells Robert the potential reasons for his issue, how to troubleshoot, and provides possible diagnosis conclusions.
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Topic: RV furnace doesn't start and you can smell the LP gas.
System: Atwood Furnace
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I want to thank you for your videos they've been very educational I've come to the conclusion that the best thing for me to do other than spending $1,400 for a new $3,500 BTU heater is to spend $260 changes all the switch sensors board new motor new fan I ordered through Amazon and I'm just going to rebuild that fucker new burner new nighter the whole nine yards and yeah like 260 bucks it's way better than 1400 for a new one nothing wrong with the housing
Thanks!
Another Great video thanks so much for sharing this with me ! Happy Holidays to you and your loved ones !
Happy Holidays, thank for the great videos!
Great video as always!! Happy Holidays to you and your family!!🎄🎉
Good Morning and HAPPY HOLIDAYS. Jack
Great information. Thanks again Don
Happy Holidays to you and your family!
Love these videos...
Good information
Excellent Discussion 👍
Hi Darren!
Thank you VERY much for the super well done videos. My furnace ias an Atwood 8535 made in 1995. My heater fan motor starts, but the burner does not light, and the blower just keeps going, and if I do not catch it, the fan will run until the house battery is depleted. I THINK that this must be a board problem, because the fan should be shut off after a period of time if there is no heat happening, shouldn't it?
Before you do that test turn off the gas. Good test 👍👍
Love your videos but that problem with my Atwood 8525-IV is that the gas line comes from the top and makes it almost impossible to get to all the screws. Unlike this one the has a flange connection. Do you have a video of the other style?
In most videos (including yours) it is claimed that the gap specifications should be 1/8 in between the electrodes and the burner. But what I am seeing in most videos is a gap of almost 1/4 in. I have also been hearing the the exhaust tube should get some lock tight on it before re-assembly, is this true?
If the burner has a burned hole in it will it light or not
i have the Atwood Hydroflame 8535-1 furnace. 35k btu. has mostly new parts but now leaking gas from old solenoids while running it. works perfect and has been for 50 times but now leaking. cant find a Atwood #31155 gas valve for it. is there a rebuild kit or can i rebuild it? an alternative that can be safely modified? THX!
Could you answer mine please,I have a suburban changed the motherboard,sail switch. I smell lp,I hear the clicking,fan blows. Does not blow hot. Thank you !
Replaced igniter
Two things that come to mind for you to check. First make sure that the exhaust Port is inserted into the furnace when you're testing this. If that exhaust Port is missing sometimes these furnaces will flame out. It does need that a little bit of back pressure that that exhaust port offers. Second is to check the gap on the electrodes. If you're smelling gas and you're hearing the ticking the electrodes may not be positioned properly over the burner so the flame is not sustained. You looking for about an eighth of an inch above the burner head.
@@MyRVWorks thank you for the response man,and exhaust port is inserted,electrode has its gap,and still nothing. I can tell you that sometimes it does work but once i try it again maybe a few hours later it will not. So I'm thinking to just keep replacing parts lol new ones go for 500$ -.-
Hello, my dometic suddenly stopped working. Fan blows, can hear valve open, hear spark igniting and smell gas, but will not light. Any suggestions to why?
I can think of a few things you can check, I'll just rattle them off here and see if it helps:
> Verify your exhaust port is connected to the furnace. With that removed the furnace will flame out almost every time.
> For the next part you'll need to remove your burner assembly. But once removed, verify the gap between the electrode and the burner screen is 1/8" (just use an allen key to slide between). Also, remove the little brass orifice and make sure that that is not clogged in any way. Often times small insects like to set up house in there.
> Verify propane pressure is at least 11" W.C. operating pressure. Depending on where you live you might need to get a license to person to do that for you.
> After all those tests, then I might suspect the board or the electrode. On our furnace playlist we have many videos where we diagnose these types of issues.
I had the same problem, fan blows, I hear ticking and smell gas. The burner plate look almost new, the solenoids also look new. The electrodes look new also but, the electrode was different than the video. It has 3 prongs instead of 2. I also noticed a large gap between the electrodes and a burner plate. I bent the small electrode and the electrode that had the wire connected to it closer to the burner plate,that fix my problem.
Is the startup sequence of a Suburban different? A Suburban Service & Training Manual states, "Upon a call from the thermostat, the module board thermostat circuit will go active. The sail switch circuit is verified as being open. The blower output is energized. Blower motor starts." So if the sail switch is stuck closed the blower (on a Suburban) won't start?
You are correct. If the sail switch is still closed then the board will not energize the blower motor.
@@MyRVWorks Hi Darren, I have a question I’m hoping you can answer. I have PEX plumbing in my 2017 5th wheel. I took a section off and saw that it has brown slime growing in the inside. This was a section going to the shower but I know it must be throughout as the bathroom sink water has been smelling bad. Is there a way to flush vinegar, or peroxide or something through the piping to kill the bacteria? I don’t drink it but we do shower with it, etc. all I can think is to turn off the water heater and back fill the hose with a solution then reconnect and flush. There has to be a better way. I’d appreciate any suggestions, thank you!
I can smell propane from my heat vents while the furnace is not running and gas on. Otherwise the furnace works fine. Is this a bad heat exchanger? I also have the screen covers on the outside exhaust vents so animals stay out. Could this be part of it?
Did you figure it out? Having a similar issue
@@NoName-sx9xsme too… can smell gas when furnace isn’t running… how do we fix this ??
Furnace uses too much propane and tgat is waste of money. Do not fix it and use your money wisely. Buy Mr. Heater and plug it to prpane tank. Trash the furnace.
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦👍
Thanks!