I hate when you are watching a video about a recipe or wrenching. And they BS for 10 mins about their life story or that kinda stuff. Respect to this guy for not wasting out valuable time
I've been using Delo 400 MGX 15W-40 on my CB500F for the last 15k kms. Used Motul fully syn for 30k kms before that and to be honest, I don't feel any difference between them. My oil change interval is 5k kms.
@@mattf2535 Do you think it's good to use the HP4S for a first oil change? I'm thinking of changing my 23' CbR500R oil at just 300 miles, as I'm doing a little bit of a semi-harsh break-in.
I run full synthetic in everything from the lawn mover and snow blower to our suv's and motorcycles including a motor swapped pitbike. motorcycles are very demanding on oil from the wet clutch breaking down then the oil filter getting clogged and having to drain that same oil out fast enough to keep the flow going, I like adding marvel mystery oil as an extra piece of mind for fuel pumps and injectors and it hasn't dirtied any internal sensors
Good video, and clear information from Ari. Good job. I'd like to add one thing from the field (I am a motorcycle technician with 10+ yrs. experience) on MC's behalf. Read your owner's manual!!!! The oil the machine was designed to use will be listed there. As for brand, it's all preference, just make sure it meets the ratings your motorbike needs to operate properly. Thanks for being brave and saying you use mineral bases in your street bike too Ari. 😉
The "diversity" of molecules in mineral oil also has the advantage of better adhering to a not-so-uniform metal surface (at the molecular level with all sorts of nooks and crannies). This is why using mineral oil (of the right viscosity) can often lead to a quieter ride. But, you don't get that "quiet" for free -- now because it's absorbing all that vibrational energy the conventional oil gets "pushed" and "worked" even harder! So, don't be surprised that will also "break down" more often as well.
synthetic oil can cause a slipping clutch when upshifting. Pretty common with the cbr600rr 2003+ and some other supersports. The best way is to ask other riders which oil they like the most , sometimes semi synthetic oil is the way to go :)
originalb4 Are you sure you checked that the oils JASO standard is to the bikes satstisfaction? When buying oil for your motorcycle its important to make sure that the API and JASO values of that oil are up to standards, else problems like those occur.
Laktoweiz. I raced enduro bike's for years and either Motul full syn or Amsoil mcf have no friction modifiers and will perform perfectly with any wet clutch!
Amsoil has been shown in independent dyno runs to increase hp by 2-3 on the R1 over traditional oil. There's also a longer change interval. Good enough reason for me to continue using it.
I have a 2000 zrx1100 and years ago I switched to semi-synthetic motorcycle oil. The cam chain started making noise (there was no noise before the oil change) but the bike did shift smoother. I replaced the cam chain tensioner (the engine had around 20,000 miles on it) and the chain still made noise. I then switched back to mineral oil and within a mile or so of riding, the noise went away and never came back (it now has 36,000 miles on it). Evidentially some engines just do not like synthetic oil!
The only problem I have with your comment is you say at the end some engines don't like synthetic oil but you didn't use synthetic. Semi synthetic is different than full synthetic.
The main difference is just how frequently you want to change your oil. If the marketing behind full synthetics promises longer oil change intervals, then that "additive" package will have to obey those rules too. This means that mineral or semi-synthetic oils can have additive packages that make the bike feel better for the first 1000 miles but break down quickly afterwards, but the full synthetic will be restricted to only those additives that can stick around for as long as the base oil itself. So, what really determines the "best quality" oil for your bike, when taking the "whole oil + additive combination" into the picture, is simply how long you want to go in between changing your oil.
That is for 4t.When we talk for 2t,mineral oil are good for some small bikes that go about 5-6k rpm because they can't propertly burn synthetic oil.For some bigger 2t bikes you need to use synthetic because they have higher rpm and produce very high temperature.And yea,for scooters is best to use semi-synthetic because they have too high rpm for mineral but don't produce soo much temperature to burn synthetic.
Forty years ago I went to school for my Industrial Mechanic certification. And we required 8 hours of oils and lubricants study. Way back then we learnt that synthetic oils were the best. I’ve used them ever since and have never once had an engine fail on me.
MC Garage. I really liked this comparison. Perhaps you could do something similar for fuels? There's lots of theories about supermarket vs premium and it would interesting to hear your take.
BEL-RAY MC1 is the best 2 stroke oil on the US market today! US SUZUKI recommends this oil to minimize any oil related issues with YOUR new race bikes!
I've heard that the quality of the oil depends mostly on the quality of the base stock and you can have high quality base stock from both mineral and synthetic oils, e.g. Rotella and such that are made for heavy duty vehicles may be mineral but they are a very good mineral oil and that's why so many people swear by Rotella/Rimula T6
People choosing Rotella T6 for a motorcycle isn't a bad choice, its going in the right direction it has a lot of same specific properties of motorcycle specific oil but it was designed for a heavy duty diesel engine operating at 2500 RPM not a small motorcycle engine screaming its head off at 14,000 RPM and working transmission duty at the same time.
Rotella was designed for diesel engines that can put out in excess of 600 Hp, but the big number is over 2000 lb/feet of torque! If Rotella can stand up to this kind of power, a motorcycle engine is no challenge. RPM is irrelevant.
RPM is not irrelevant. If you have a motorcycle engine thats running at 10k RPM vs a car or truck engine running at 2500 RPM your causing more abuse on the oil your creating more wear and heat because the motor is running 4 times faster. Everything plays into the big picture. And at the end of the day the oil was never designed to run in a transmission.
Bike engine runs at 14,000 RPM , and is generally at the top of it's power/torque curve. More heat produced, harder on oil. Diesel runs at 4000 RPM and is making most of it's power/ torque and heat, harder on oil. Regardless of any engines rpm limit, you run any engine near it's redline and you're being hard on it. And who runs a bike with a 14,000 rpm at that limit consistently?? Maybe if you race or like getting tickets! As for transmission shear, that is the big difference. What sets Rotella apart is the amount of Z.D.D.P it contains. Motorcycle flat tappet engines LOVE Z.D.D.P. I believe most "motorcycle specific" oils are at about 600-700 p.p.m. of Z.D.D.P. Rotella is 1100 p.p.m. of Z.D.D.P. I've been running Rotella myself for years, not because I'm cheap but because IMO it's the best. Every time I open my engine to set valves I'm amazed at how the cams are like new with zero scoring of any kind. I do change it every 3500 Km "filter every second oil dump".
I used motul synthetic 5100 in my 07 xr400 motard. The clutched slipped. changed to castrol power 1 gps semi syn and no more clutch slip. I use the castrol in my yamaha wr450f 09 and the motul in my husky 09 te510. both have been great. i get 1500km in my husky, the Yamaha I service every 350km. That the difference of an offroad bike and a road bike.
I bought a brand new 2019 CB1000-R. I stocked up 4 bottles @ $24 each (4 liter container) of Castrol Actevo X-tra 10W30 & 7 Bottles @ $51 each (4 liter container) of Motul 7100 4T Ester 10W40 & 7 K&N 204 oil filters. i baby it 😍
Please do the “science” on engine motorcycle oil vs auto and diesel truck engine oil. I see many people put diesel motor oil in sport bikes! Some say they don’t care because they will sell the bike and they don’t keep it long enough, how can this attitude affect the second or third owner? Thanks and great job on the vids! Keep them coming.
I'd like to add that, Oil it self doesn't break down, It gets contaminated. But the additives in the oil will. This is another reason I like full synthetics for bikes that may sit a while in between rides they are formulated with a much better end result for our recreational toys I even run full synthetics in my riding mower and pressure washer due to the heat those engines deal with
Like he said- the benefit of synthetic is more gradual breakdown - but isn't this only better for pro-longed use - which is why i use mineral oil (cheaper) but i change it after every trackday. For my car i use synthetic because it only has 4K rpm and it goes for 10K miles.
To my knowledge, the friction modifiers in synthetic oils are removed so as to be used in a wet clutch application. What is left besides the base esters that would make synthetics so much better in cars when used in bikes?
Actually if you are not sure which motor oil will work "best" in your engine, a synthetic blend might be a good thing to try. Making good compromises is the basis for good Engineering. For example, don't gear your bike too tall or too low, don't use a tire too wide or too narrow... similarly, don't use a motor oil that is too slippery, or old technology when your bike can take something better. Remember means between extremes (true generally speaking).
The Belray EXP feels a bit sticky, not slippery, but agree in general with what you are saying here. Plus, you don't need $100 oil in a $50 bike either. But if you have a newish bike and you want to do the best you can do to keep the motor "like new", don't scrimp on oil. Ester synthetic for street, touring, and sport bikes is a huge YES.
So in an application where there is no pressurized circulation from a pump and a filter - say in a rear end / differential full synthetic is superior. But when there is a pump and the oil circulates and eventually passes through a filter a synthetic blend is superior because it can suspend particles (combustion by-products like carbon, wear items like small metal particles, even dirt, etc.) and carry them suspended in the oil until it passes through the filter medium and is caught. Full synthetic oils do not do as good a job suspending particles so the abrasive particles end up dropping out and gunking up the lower areas where oil is present rather than being filtered.
There is such a thing as too slippery. One job of MC oil is to reduce friction, not virtually eliminate it. If the oil is too slippery, it can cause problems (such as clutch slippage). In cars, using synthetic in a high mileage car might cause it to leak some oil when it wasn't previously leaking oil using conventional (mineral) oil.
Good video, but you got the difference between mineral and synthetic oil's origin wrong. Synthetic oil is just more refined mineral oil. It's still derived from crude oil, not "synthesized in the lab" as was said in this video.
@@majbach1968 Amsoil is still refined from crude oil. It is far more refined than most though and they would never rely on ester to fortify their synthetic oils thankfully.
yamaha main dealer advised not putting in synthetic in my xvs 1100 because it would make the clutch slip. shocked the dealer would only sell me the cheaper product and not the more expensive i took there advice
This is a 4 year old video. There is very little price differance in mineral vs synthetic oils. In the EU mineral oils are gettting hard to find as all new vehicals come with Group lll synthetic oils in them.
Good video, simple and to the point. Taking my FXBRS for first service this morning and since it’s soon going to be hotter than hell here in Texas I’m going with synthetic.
Riders should also note that some oils just don't work well with certain engines. Many riders I know swear by Rotella T6 and they're right. Its great in most bikes but for some reason it causes the clutch in my 2011 ZX6R to slip. I won't pretend to be some keyboard expert/ mechanical/ chemical NASA Ninja engineer... I have no idea why it doesn't work well in that bike. With my other bikes its great.
rotella t 6 is for cars or trucks engines,not transmissions or wet clutches. There are additives designed to work with "wet clutches" in motorcycle's oils avoiding slippage between clutch components and materials. You can use rotella or whatever car oil in your bike if you have a transmission separated from the engine,with often, a dry clutch.
people with oil test sheets would disagree with you. its your bike at the end of the day. theres proof from people with 10s of thousands of miles on rotella with engines going just fine
michaelovitch I've done more than 100,000 fairly hard miles between two Suzuki Bandit 1200's using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 Diesel oil with absolutely no clutch slippage or other issues. Motorcycle oils are mostly just rebranded car oil with a couple extra additives so they can call it "Motorcycle Specific" and jack the price of it. as long as you don't use an automotive oil that says "Energy Conserving" on it then it's fine to use in a motorcycle wet clutch.
It's done too here,with a cheap brand from a supermarket ,wich is produced by a big oil company. You can do it ,but the addititves are not the same,and you need to test it to be sure. You can use energy conserving oils too,they are just thinner. You should avoid the specific diesel ones working with dpf engines etc...the bearings materials are not always compatible.
I finally decided on Spectro Golden 4 blend for all my bikes. Seems to work well. Then again, owning multiple bikes is the secret to lower miles on each... a second bike cuts wear in half... three cuts it to 33.3 percent... 4 to only 25 percent !!!
I use Motul 5100. Semi synthetic. Great stuff ! The 300V is rediculous and no point unless you leave your oil in for very long periods which you shouldn't. At $150 for 4 litres , I'll stick with the 5100 Motul
300V actually has shorter drain interval as it is a racing oil. They have very low kinematic viscosity and very little detergents. I usually use Motul 7100. Works like a charm on heavy Indian traffics as well as on highways.
So here is a good question, what about the rumor of once you go synthetic you can't go back to conventional? For Motorcycles and even for Cars for that matter. I would love to hear you take on the matter.
I had my oil changed here in Seattle where I'm visiting by Vallantine BMW repair. My moto is a '94 BMWR1100RS. They know their business and I think it'll be fine. Thx for the video.
Cool vid but lets not leave out the other main difference any average joe needs to worry about on conventional vs synthetic vs mineral oil is synthetic retains its fluidity at lower temperatures. So if you dont live in a cold climate, you can cheapo it all day. But if you live in 32 & below, synthetic is the only way to go ;) Pure 'real' synthetics are group 4s(Mobil) and cheaper 'synthetics' are not 'real' synthetics and are group 3s (Pennzoil,quaker state, etc).. but all in all, you got it down pact
If he's high, he should stay that way. He does a great job of taking complex/controversial subjects and making them clear and comprehensible. Most people couldn't do it as well stone cold sober...myself included!
What oil is best for breaking-in a new bike sir Ari? Is it a Mineral or Synthetic? Some people say use mineral because it beaks-in the engine better, Is it true? Because I'm planning to get YZF-R6 and I want the optimum performance out of it.
I heard so many people talk good about Amsoil synthetic, it also complete several tests really well but the manufacture didn't advertise that they use ESTER. Not sure how good it is when compare with ESTER based oil like Bel Ray and Motul 300V.
I can't speak for the motorcycles, but our work trucks use Amsoil and we do once, maybe twice a year oil changes. The owner of our company was part of the fastest inline 6 drag racer IGOR, and that is all they ever used. There are some videos on TH-cam :)
"Changing your oil on time is more important than what oil you use". Really. VW's PD diesel injectors are savage on oil and have very prescriptive requirements.
Roman Gavrilov bt i am using it i mean wruth engine oil additives with motul 7100 trust me engine is soooooooo smooth i am vry happy n satisfied with the additives. reallly usefull
subharaj naskar its been proven that modern oils already contain plently of additives (at least the nice ones do) and mixing them with off the shelf ones can be worse. Sometimes they help, but its better to keep them off unlees you know theyre compatible and they help.
Luckily today in 2021, I can buy brand name Full synthetic for ~10USD or less at major stores (Walmart) and as low as 6 per quart on Amazon (single or big jug/multipack)
Motul technosyntheic with ester 5100 . 15w50 i use that and yes its little bit good then castrol wenever my engine gets heat and i get sensation on my knees i get a fate of motul and my tention release it 510 bucks i have to use 1200ml so bought two bottle of 1 liter
Hello, can you please make a detail video on engine flush, when to use it, its pros and cons, when shall it be avoided and regular intervals to use it.
@@nikhilshyampatil1719 sorry i dont know about new engines but ive seen many videos that show bad results from engine flushing not to mention my car car being scraped due to that.
Hey avid fan here from phillipines i have a ns200 rouser is it ok to use the motul oil cause im in a tropical country thanks more power to your show and its help me alot from your video
Got a question. Put synthetic in my bike for the first time and was about to switch back to mineral for the cost savings. I was just about to do this when the guys at the bike shop said "no!" You can't go back, you'll regret it. Seriously, can you, or can't you? My bike is a 2001 MZ Baghira with close to 50k and the engine is the same as the Yamaha Raptor 660.
I dont think it is a good idea to do so. Try some cheaper alternative like a semisynthetic or technosythese if it was my bike though I would try to find a better deal for my oil of choice
Great information. I love all the videos that motorcyclist makes. I got a question that no one can give me a straight answer about exhaust, on aftermarket exhaust if you remove the db killers does it damage your engine or not?, and if it does what happens to it and why do they give you the option to keep or remove it?
Quieting baffle inserts are constrictions installed in the exhaust system to reduce noise levels, the byproduct of installation is increased pressure between the exhaust valve and the end of the tailpipe. More pressure in this area results in better running conditions (generalization). Essentially, installing performance exhaust doesn't damage a power train, lack of compensating for the reduced back pressure does. If the bike is fuel injected it must be re-tuned, if the bike is carbureted it must be re-jetted. Performance exhaust leans out combustion chambers, it must be compensated for.
Quieting baffle inserts are constrictions installed in the exhaust system to reduce noise levels, the byproduct of installation is increased pressure between the exhaust valve and the end of the tailpipe. More pressure in this area results in better running conditions (generalization). Essentially, installing performance exhaust doesn't damage a power train, lack of compensating for the reduced back pressure does. If the bike is fuel injected it must be re-tuned, if the bike is carbureted it must be re-jetted. Performance exhaust leans out combustion chambers, it must be compensated for.
Unless you change your oil on a daily basis then 15$ is indeed a lot but you only need realistically to change it about 2 time a year so the cost for synthetic oil Is negligible
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
They both work fine, the best oil is clean oil, and the correct grade...
Yeah but synthetic will take the abuse you throw at it without degrading as much as mineral oil
20k on a bike to save 5 bucks on oil. Synthetic is the 0nly way to go
Synthetic is definitely the way to go, if you can afford it.
Also, changing the oil on time is actually the most important part of the whole ordeal!
@@menotyou7762 if you regularly change your fluids and not beat the crap out of your bike, either is fine.
Hey guys is there such thing as changing oil to often? On a motor bike
quick and straight to the point without unnecessary
Unnecessary Bullshit
I hate when you are watching a video about a recipe or wrenching. And they BS for 10 mins about their life story or that kinda stuff.
Respect to this guy for not wasting out valuable time
This guy is good and knows his stuff. I've Been a motorcycle mechanic since 1980 and retired now and recently the proud owner of a 2019 xsr900 .
Always informative videos from the MC Garage. I always use synthetic in my Bikes
Same here, cost be damned! =P
My experience: both my CB500F and CBR600RR both shifted better & stayed cooler after switching from GN4 mineral to full synthetic.
I've been using Delo 400 MGX 15W-40 on my CB500F for the last 15k kms. Used Motul fully syn for 30k kms before that and to be honest, I don't feel any difference between them. My oil change interval is 5k kms.
Which full synthetic did you use? Did you use hondas?
@@JohnnyBoy919 Honda HP4S for the 500F and Amsoil MCT for the 600RR
@@mattf2535 Do you think it's good to use the HP4S for a first oil change? I'm thinking of changing my 23' CbR500R oil at just 300 miles, as I'm doing a little bit of a semi-harsh break-in.
I'm having my 1st change oil on my bike and I'm glad I dropped by here. Thank you so much.
I’ve been using Rotella T6 full synthetic no problems so far and it’s so affordable.
I run full synthetic in everything from the lawn mover and snow blower to our suv's and motorcycles including a motor swapped pitbike. motorcycles are very demanding on oil from the wet clutch breaking down then the oil filter getting clogged and having to drain that same oil out fast enough to keep the flow going, I like adding marvel mystery oil as an extra piece of mind for fuel pumps and injectors and it hasn't dirtied any internal sensors
Good video, and clear information from Ari. Good job. I'd like to add one thing from the field (I am a motorcycle technician with 10+ yrs. experience) on MC's behalf. Read your owner's manual!!!! The oil the machine was designed to use will be listed there. As for brand, it's all preference, just make sure it meets the ratings your motorbike needs to operate properly. Thanks for being brave and saying you use mineral bases in your street bike too Ari. 😉
The "diversity" of molecules in mineral oil also has the advantage of better adhering to a not-so-uniform metal surface (at the molecular level with all sorts of nooks and crannies). This is why using mineral oil (of the right viscosity) can often lead to a quieter ride. But, you don't get that "quiet" for free -- now because it's absorbing all that vibrational energy the conventional oil gets "pushed" and "worked" even harder! So, don't be surprised that will also "break down" more often as well.
MC Garage always putting out useful content to keep riders educated, good job guys!
synthetic oil can cause a slipping clutch when upshifting. Pretty common with the cbr600rr 2003+ and some other supersports. The best way is to ask other riders which oil they like the most , sometimes semi synthetic oil is the way to go :)
Make sure you are using motorcycle specific synthetic oil , I learned that the hard way when I was motorcycle noob :( .
of course
Ditto. I have a zx14 and had to go back to mineral oil as it had the same clutch slip issue. Ari....next vid go more in depth!!!!
originalb4 Are you sure you checked that the oils JASO standard is to the bikes satstisfaction?
When buying oil for your motorcycle its important to make sure that the API and JASO values of that oil are up to standards, else problems like those occur.
Laktoweiz. I raced enduro bike's for years and either Motul full syn or Amsoil mcf have no friction modifiers and will perform perfectly with any wet clutch!
love the garage series...Keep it coming
Amsoil has been shown in independent dyno runs to increase hp by 2-3 on the R1 over traditional oil. There's also a longer change interval. Good enough reason for me to continue using it.
Only a fool don't use amsoil and bypass systems...
I have a 2000 zrx1100 and years ago I switched to semi-synthetic motorcycle oil. The cam chain started making noise (there was no noise before the oil change) but the bike did shift smoother. I replaced the cam chain tensioner (the engine had around 20,000 miles on it) and the chain still made noise. I then switched back to mineral oil and within a mile or so of riding, the noise went away and never came back (it now has 36,000 miles on it). Evidentially some engines just do not like synthetic oil!
The only problem I have with your comment is you say at the end some engines don't like synthetic oil but you didn't use synthetic. Semi synthetic is different than full synthetic.
I run what the manufacture tells me to. I guess I have no imagination but none of my machines have ever let me down.
The main difference is just how frequently you want to change your oil. If the marketing behind full synthetics promises longer oil change intervals, then that "additive" package will have to obey those rules too. This means that mineral or semi-synthetic oils can have additive packages that make the bike feel better for the first 1000 miles but break down quickly afterwards, but the full synthetic will be restricted to only those additives that can stick around for as long as the base oil itself. So, what really determines the "best quality" oil for your bike, when taking the "whole oil + additive combination" into the picture, is simply how long you want to go in between changing your oil.
Said no petroleum engineer ever.
@@x-man5056 Said someone who thinks they know all petroleum engineers lol
change oil is important what ever oil that you use,, he is right thats a big yes....
I've always used castrol 4t 10w40 synthetic ( the gold container)
The mineral is the best u idiot
@@leftmorningstar6954 Why?
That is for 4t.When we talk for 2t,mineral oil are good for some small bikes that go about 5-6k rpm because they can't propertly burn synthetic oil.For some bigger 2t bikes you need to use synthetic because they have higher rpm and produce very high temperature.And yea,for scooters is best to use semi-synthetic because they have too high rpm for mineral but don't produce soo much temperature to burn synthetic.
Forty years ago I went to school for my Industrial Mechanic certification. And we required 8 hours of oils and lubricants study. Way back then we learnt that synthetic oils were the best. I’ve used them ever since and have never once had an engine fail on me.
MC Garage. I really liked this comparison. Perhaps you could do something similar for fuels? There's lots of theories about supermarket vs premium and it would interesting to hear your take.
Full synthetic is my go-to!
no mineral is the best
@Ray Charles no your life
The best oil to use is the one you will use frequently or at least on the service intervals.
straight forward an non-nonsense explanation. I love this channel!
Been running Motul full syn in all my bikes since 2003.
Great videos, you always explained it clearly and on point. also how something works, advantages/disadvantages and everything!
the videos are very simple and information. top of the line!!! keep it up Ari and your team!
BEL-RAY MC1 is the best 2 stroke oil on the US market today! US SUZUKI recommends this oil to minimize any oil related issues with YOUR new race bikes!
We realy like your videos, they are just simple to understand and very helpful. Thank's!
I've heard that the quality of the oil depends mostly on the quality of the base stock and you can have high quality base stock from both mineral and synthetic oils, e.g. Rotella and such that are made for heavy duty vehicles may be mineral but they are a very good mineral oil and that's why so many people swear by Rotella/Rimula T6
People choosing Rotella T6 for a motorcycle isn't a bad choice, its going in the right direction it has a lot of same specific properties of motorcycle specific oil but it was designed for a heavy duty diesel engine operating at 2500 RPM not a small motorcycle engine screaming its head off at 14,000 RPM and working transmission duty at the same time.
Rotella was designed for diesel engines that can put out in excess of 600 Hp, but the big number is over 2000 lb/feet of torque! If Rotella can stand up to this kind of power, a motorcycle engine is no challenge. RPM is irrelevant.
RPM is not irrelevant. If you have a motorcycle engine thats running at 10k RPM vs a car or truck engine running at 2500 RPM your causing more abuse on the oil your creating more wear and heat because the motor is running 4 times faster. Everything plays into the big picture. And at the end of the day the oil was never designed to run in a transmission.
Bike engine runs at 14,000 RPM , and is generally at the top of it's power/torque curve. More heat produced, harder on oil. Diesel runs at 4000 RPM and is making most of it's power/ torque and heat, harder on oil. Regardless of any engines rpm limit, you run any engine near it's redline and you're being hard on it. And who runs a bike with a 14,000 rpm at that limit consistently?? Maybe if you race or like getting tickets! As for transmission shear, that is the big difference. What sets Rotella apart is the amount of Z.D.D.P it contains. Motorcycle flat tappet engines LOVE Z.D.D.P. I believe most "motorcycle specific" oils are at about 600-700 p.p.m. of Z.D.D.P. Rotella is 1100 p.p.m. of Z.D.D.P. I've been running Rotella myself for years, not because I'm cheap but because IMO it's the best. Every time I open my engine to set valves I'm amazed at how the cams are like new with zero scoring of any kind. I do change it every 3500 Km "filter every second oil dump".
88 Honda Goldwing I try use Rotella T4, T5, T6, Chevron 400, AMSOIL 10/30, but the best for my clutch was Bell Ray 10w40 mineral.....
I used motul synthetic 5100 in my 07 xr400 motard. The clutched slipped. changed to castrol power 1 gps semi syn and no more clutch slip. I use the castrol in my yamaha wr450f 09 and the motul in my husky 09 te510. both have been great. i get 1500km in my husky, the Yamaha I service every 350km. That the difference of an offroad bike and a road bike.
I bought a brand new 2019 CB1000-R. I stocked up 4 bottles @ $24 each (4 liter container) of Castrol Actevo X-tra 10W30 & 7 Bottles @ $51 each (4 liter container) of Motul 7100 4T Ester 10W40 & 7 K&N 204 oil filters. i baby it 😍
Great info guys ! Really jazzed about the success of your channel.
Please do the “science” on engine motorcycle oil vs auto and diesel truck engine oil. I see many people put diesel motor oil in sport bikes! Some say they don’t care because they will sell the bike and they don’t keep it long enough, how can this attitude affect the second or third owner? Thanks and great job on the vids! Keep them coming.
I use Harley Davidson's Screaming Eagle SYN3 synthetic 20W50 oil 👌🏽
I'd like to add that, Oil it self doesn't break down, It gets contaminated. But the additives in the oil will.
This is another reason I like full synthetics for bikes that may sit a while in between rides they are formulated with a much better end result for our recreational toys
I even run full synthetics in my riding mower and pressure washer due to the heat those engines deal with
Like he said- the benefit of synthetic is more gradual breakdown - but isn't this only better for pro-longed use - which is why i use mineral oil (cheaper) but i change it after every trackday. For my car i use synthetic because it only has 4K rpm and it goes for 10K miles.
Thank you for your great knowledge of information. You're the best coach when it comes to motorcycle 🏍️ advice.
These videos are SO helpful. Thank you 🙏
I use Mobile 1 synthetic in my R1. It's got almost 24,000 miles on it and runs strong.
I should hope so too with 24,000 miles. That's very very very low mileage indeed.
You do whatever comes first the mileage or time
To my knowledge, the friction modifiers in synthetic oils are removed so as to be used in a wet clutch application. What is left besides the base esters that would make synthetics so much better in cars when used in bikes?
You called it. .esters inherently have the highest film strength and temperature resistance...
Actually if you are not sure which motor oil will work "best" in your engine, a synthetic blend might be a good thing to try. Making good compromises is the basis for good Engineering. For example, don't gear your bike too tall or too low, don't use a tire too wide or too narrow... similarly, don't use a motor oil that is too slippery, or old technology when your bike can take something better. Remember means between extremes (true generally speaking).
The Belray EXP feels a bit sticky, not slippery, but agree in general with what you are saying here. Plus, you don't need $100 oil in a $50 bike either. But if you have a newish bike and you want to do the best you can do to keep the motor "like new", don't scrimp on oil. Ester synthetic for street, touring, and sport bikes is a huge YES.
So in an application where there is no pressurized circulation from a pump and a filter - say in a rear end / differential full synthetic is superior.
But when there is a pump and the oil circulates and eventually passes through a filter a synthetic blend is superior because it can suspend particles (combustion by-products like carbon, wear items like small metal particles, even dirt, etc.) and carry them suspended in the oil until it passes through the filter medium and is caught.
Full synthetic oils do not do as good a job suspending particles so the abrasive particles end up dropping out and gunking up the lower areas where oil is present rather than being filtered.
Rotella T6 for life! Can't beat $20/gallon :)
That shit blows. And has additives for diesel use.
@@darrenmcfeaters6683 no it doesn't. Thats what makes it an awesome bike oil.
Hey great video as always. If you haven't already can you do a video on checking alignments and bearings?
God I miss these videos.... Not the dude talking abiut carbs non stop.
I love this channel. Really useful information.
Nicely done and very professional. Thanks.
There is such a thing as too slippery. One job of MC oil is to reduce friction, not virtually eliminate it. If the oil is too slippery, it can cause problems (such as clutch slippage). In cars, using synthetic in a high mileage car might cause it to leak some oil when it wasn't previously leaking oil using conventional (mineral) oil.
I agree i notice when i used repsol mineral oil in my gsxr 600 the engine gets very hot really quick
Good video, but you got the difference between mineral and synthetic oil's origin wrong.
Synthetic oil is just more refined mineral oil. It's still derived from crude oil, not "synthesized in the lab" as was said in this video.
except for a couple remaining brands like Amsoil that are in fact cooked up in the lab
@@majbach1968 Amsoil is still refined from crude oil. It is far more refined than most though and they would never rely on ester to fortify their synthetic oils thankfully.
I'm not so sure I agree.
www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
@@majbach1968 nice article cheers
yamaha main dealer advised not putting in synthetic in my xvs 1100 because it would make the clutch slip. shocked the dealer would only sell me the cheaper product and not the more expensive i took there advice
This is a 4 year old video. There is very little price differance in mineral vs synthetic oils. In the EU mineral oils are gettting hard to find as all new vehicals come with Group lll synthetic oils in them.
sorry its still castor bean oil for me , and the scent is worth it all
YES! I seem to be stuck in the '60s and the smell of two stroke scramblers. I use Klotz racing castor in my weedeaters and chain saws. lol
blendzall in the gas tank for 4 strokes 6oz to 4 1/2 gals seems to get the odor flowing if some one is behind you
You mix oil into your fuel... On 4 strokes? WTF did I just read?
A video about oil choices that has overwhelmingly positive reviews? I didn't think this day would happen.
Good video, simple and to the point. Taking my FXBRS for first service this morning and since it’s soon going to be hotter than hell here in Texas I’m going with synthetic.
THIS CHANNEL IS AWESOME.
Fully synthetic in my B-King, semi-synthetic in my MT-01.
Riders should also note that some oils just don't work well with certain engines. Many riders I know swear by Rotella T6 and they're right. Its great in most bikes but for some reason it causes the clutch in my 2011 ZX6R to slip. I won't pretend to be some keyboard expert/ mechanical/ chemical NASA Ninja engineer... I have no idea why it doesn't work well in that bike. With my other bikes its great.
rotella t 6 is for cars or trucks engines,not transmissions or wet clutches.
There are additives designed to work with "wet clutches" in motorcycle's oils avoiding slippage between clutch components and materials.
You can use rotella or whatever car oil in your bike if you have a transmission separated from the engine,with often, a dry clutch.
people with oil test sheets would disagree with you. its your bike at the end of the day. theres proof from people with 10s of thousands of miles on rotella with engines going just fine
michaelovitch I've done more than 100,000 fairly hard miles between two Suzuki Bandit 1200's using Shell Rotella T 15W-40 Diesel oil with absolutely no clutch slippage or other issues. Motorcycle oils are mostly just rebranded car oil with a couple extra additives so they can call it "Motorcycle Specific" and jack the price of it. as long as you don't use an automotive oil that says "Energy Conserving" on it then it's fine to use in a motorcycle wet clutch.
It's done too here,with a cheap brand from a supermarket ,wich is produced by a big oil company.
You can do it ,but the addititves are not the same,and you need to test it to be sure.
You can use energy conserving oils too,they are just thinner.
You should avoid the specific diesel ones working with dpf engines etc...the bearings materials are not always compatible.
OOO! A Rotella argument!
rotella is JASO-MA certified, thereby, for motorocycles.
Rotella t6 5w40 diesel oil for my 2006 gsxr 1000, 2008 gsxr 1000, 09 r1, 2011 and 15 z1000
Motul full synthetic for me.
I use motul 7100 100% synthetic.
@@M-DIY hi ,may I know much Kms it lasts?
@@_JACK_OF_TRADES_ 5000km to 6000km
empty your wallet faster!
I finally decided on Spectro Golden 4 blend for all my bikes.
Seems to work well.
Then again, owning multiple bikes is the secret to lower miles on each... a second bike cuts wear in half... three cuts it to 33.3 percent... 4 to only 25 percent !!!
my bike is gsraged in a non temp controlled garage 5 months a year. i only use mineral oil since i change my oil every season. cost benefit
I use Motul 5100. Semi synthetic. Great stuff !
The 300V is rediculous and no point unless you leave your oil in for very long periods which you shouldn't. At $150 for 4 litres , I'll stick with the 5100 Motul
Run 5100 in my Concours. Shifts like a hot knife through butter. Great, great oil.
5100 plus Kawi filter. Can't put a Price on piece of mind.
300V actually has shorter drain interval as it is a racing oil. They have very low kinematic viscosity and very little detergents. I usually use Motul 7100. Works like a charm on heavy Indian traffics as well as on highways.
So here is a good question, what about the rumor of once you go synthetic you can't go back to conventional? For Motorcycles and even for Cars for that matter. I would love to hear you take on the matter.
Well my dumbass did exactly that n switched back. I got engine knock. That's what I got.fml
Love me my MC Garage. Keep it up, guys.
I had my oil changed here in Seattle where I'm visiting by Vallantine BMW repair. My moto is a '94 BMWR1100RS. They know their business and I think it'll be fine. Thx for the video.
A video on oil grades and viscosity and what the numbers mean would be great information.
Far more to oil than viscosity
That's pretty much entry level stuff that you can find all over the internet. No use wasting a video on something as basic as viscosity ratings.
Scott Kessler - try this m.th-cam.com/video/Hb6CX_rWoIA/w-d-xo.html
Nice video straight to the point
Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
Hope you can give us videos on maintenance based on Honda scooters
Make a Video on correct choice of Engine Oil for Royal Enfield UCE engines
I prefer 10w50 maxima in my hd vtwin, works great.
Thanks again for your knowledge question Best motorcycle grade oil for winter months
I ordered a 1 litre bottle of belray mineral oil the other day and I was sent a 4 litre bottle by mistake... should last me a pretty long time.
Awesome!!! I never get that lucky. I use Motul 300V so a liter is $20 and 4 liters is $62. It would be awesome to have that happen
rotella t6 in everything
Cool vid but lets not leave out the other main difference any average joe needs to worry about on conventional vs synthetic vs mineral oil is synthetic retains its fluidity at lower temperatures. So if you dont live in a cold climate, you can cheapo it all day. But if you live in 32 & below, synthetic is the only way to go ;)
Pure 'real' synthetics are group 4s(Mobil) and cheaper 'synthetics' are not 'real' synthetics and are group 3s (Pennzoil,quaker state, etc).. but all in all, you got it down pact
Ari always looks baked when he does a video. His eyes look so red.
I was just going to mention that. We're also coming up on 420 likes ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Wow what a great answer ¶:-)
Personally I like the way you talk, keep it up !
I thought the same thing. Great video though. I actually a Yamaha parts counter guy caution me on the synthetic they sold in the store .
If he's high, he should stay that way. He does a great job of taking complex/controversial subjects and making them clear and comprehensible. Most people couldn't do it as well stone cold sober...myself included!
Dry eye syndrome? He doesn't act "baked".
Here in Canada, we run pure Maple Syrup in our bikes, none of that fake ass Synthetic Maple Syrup...SWEET ride.
No bacon grease at all?
Bet it doesn’t smell as good like Castor bean oil, but a sweet close 2nd 🥈
What oil is best for breaking-in a new bike sir Ari? Is it a Mineral or Synthetic? Some people say use mineral because it beaks-in the engine better, Is it true? Because I'm planning to get YZF-R6 and I want the optimum performance out of it.
MotoCruza check the owner's manual!
Mineral is best after break in period go for synthetic
amsoil 10w30... been using it for EVER ON MY 919RR AND MY R1 ... i get it at wholesale price 8.96 a quart
I heard so many people talk good about Amsoil synthetic, it also complete several tests really well but the manufacture didn't advertise that they use ESTER. Not sure how good it is when compare with ESTER based oil like Bel Ray and Motul 300V.
I can't speak for the motorcycles, but our work trucks use Amsoil and we do once, maybe twice a year oil changes. The owner of our company was part of the fastest inline 6 drag racer IGOR, and that is all they ever used. There are some videos on TH-cam :)
Rotella T6 5w-40. Wet clutch and motorcycle safe. $22 per gallon. Full Synthetic.
I use shell ultra 10w40 synthetic :D
I use it too on my Kawasaki Ninja 250
hi ... need to know more about Motorcycle Oil leak causes and solutions...
"Changing your oil on time is more important than what oil you use". Really. VW's PD diesel injectors are savage on oil and have very prescriptive requirements.
:D
How is wruth engine oil additives if i use it with 7100 motul 20w50??plz reply
subharaj naskar additives are a rip off.
Roman Gavrilov bt i am using it i mean wruth engine oil additives with motul 7100 trust me engine is soooooooo smooth i am vry happy n satisfied with the additives. reallly usefull
subharaj naskar its been proven that modern oils already contain plently of additives (at least the nice ones do) and mixing them with off the shelf ones can be worse. Sometimes they help, but its better to keep them off unlees you know theyre compatible and they help.
Can you make a video on what is the difference between standard and dual channels ABS on bikes.
Question: in Wet multiplate clutch gearboxes, does it make a difference in gearshifts if mineral or synthetic is used?
Switched to mineral oil n i realised there's a metal thud noise whenever i slow down with engine break. Used synthetic ever since.
Luckily today in 2021, I can buy brand name Full synthetic for ~10USD or less at major stores (Walmart) and as low as 6 per quart on Amazon (single or big jug/multipack)
Motul technosyntheic with ester 5100 . 15w50 i use that and yes its little bit good then castrol wenever my engine gets heat and i get sensation on my knees i get a fate of motul and my tention release it 510 bucks i have to use 1200ml so bought two bottle of 1 liter
Rotella T6 Babby #1 Oil at Walmart for motorcycle
Hello, can you please make a detail video on engine flush, when to use it, its pros and cons, when shall it be avoided and regular intervals to use it.
Engine flushes are bad from exprience my used car was wrecked due to the engine flush.
@@joshSmacknMouths but are they bad on new engines ?
@@nikhilshyampatil1719 sorry i dont know about new engines but ive seen many videos that show bad results from engine flushing not to mention my car car being scraped due to that.
Hey avid fan here from phillipines i have a ns200 rouser is it ok to use the motul oil cause im in a tropical country thanks more power to your show and its help me alot from your video
Got a question. Put synthetic in my bike for the first time and was about to switch back to mineral for the cost savings. I was just about to do this when the guys at the bike shop said "no!" You can't go back, you'll regret it.
Seriously, can you, or can't you? My bike is a 2001 MZ Baghira with close to 50k and the engine is the same as the Yamaha Raptor 660.
I dont think it is a good idea to do so. Try some cheaper alternative like a semisynthetic or technosythese if it was my bike though I would try to find a better deal for my oil of choice
Great information. I love all the videos that motorcyclist makes. I got a question that no one can give me a straight answer about exhaust, on aftermarket exhaust if you remove the db killers does it damage your engine or not?, and if it does what happens to it and why do they give you the option to keep or remove it?
Quieting baffle inserts are constrictions installed in the exhaust system to reduce noise levels, the byproduct of installation is increased pressure between the exhaust valve and the end of the tailpipe. More pressure in this area results in better running conditions (generalization). Essentially, installing performance exhaust doesn't damage a power train, lack of compensating for the reduced back pressure does. If the bike is fuel injected it must be re-tuned, if the bike is carbureted it must be re-jetted. Performance exhaust leans out combustion chambers, it must be compensated for.
Quieting baffle inserts are constrictions installed in the exhaust system to reduce noise levels, the byproduct of installation is increased pressure between the exhaust valve and the end of the tailpipe. More pressure in this area results in better running conditions (generalization). Essentially, installing performance exhaust doesn't damage a power train, lack of compensating for the reduced back pressure does. If the bike is fuel injected it must be re-tuned, if the bike is carbureted it must be re-jetted. Performance exhaust leans out combustion chambers, it must be compensated for.
Heard that fully synth is not good for older roller bearing cranks, as the balls skid rather than rotate as it is so slippy. Discuss 🤣
Unless you change your oil on a daily basis then 15$ is indeed a lot but you only need realistically to change it about 2 time a year so the cost for synthetic oil Is negligible