This video is a savior. I was a bit unsure about where to support the subframe to lower it and this helped me out a lot. Actually a lot simpler once you get started like you said. Now I have 40k on my car and these bushing changed driving feel tremendously. Acceleration response, turn response, shifting feel. All positives. I am getting a bit more road noise through the rear end but that is expected. Thanks for making this.
Thank you sir. Yep, more road noise transferred into the cabin and hard jolts are not absorbed like the factory setup but not a big increase. I am very sensitive to noise and vibration and this is about as good as it gets before getting too extreme.
Thanks for this video! It helped me do mine this afternoon after work. I had a few spots of confusion but your F R on the diagram and other things in the video helped me understand, then it got easy.
I know right...that little low res diagram of the subframe threw me for a loop until I could get my bearings. Got to know the orientation of the subframe in the instructions to place the bushing collars in the right spots. Front and rear specific. Yes, very helpful to see video to help you kind of figure out what you are getting into beforehand. Why I was appreciative of Kaydro Technologies TH-camr who puts out some informative videos here and there like his subframe collar install. Thanks for letting me know my video was helpful to some degree. A more rigid subframe connection is/will be a big plus. Glad there's a company like Z1 to make this part.
Video definitely helped with a few things. I have an aftermarket exhaust so it was much easier to remove. All in all, probably took like 2 hours 🙌. Thanks for the video. And when I was removing the old oem nuts and bolts for the oem exhaust, I broke the bolt 😂
Half the battle is walking into the unknown. Once you do these things it like heck I could do that really fast the the 2nd time. I'm glad I could be some kind of help. The reason why I make videos. Not to make money even though money is nice. Making videos should be about enjoyment or at least for me. Helps me to know by comments that I'm not worthless at making videos:)
Thanks for posting the video. i received my collars in the mail yesterday. I have one question about where you had your axel stands supporting the car. Are they at the pinch welds? My axel stands are Y shaped and I don't like using them on the pinch welds as they can deform / damage the area. I am considering doing this task with the rear wheels on floor ramps (do all the prep work and removing components) then to use my jack and rubber puck on the pinch welds to lift the car/separate the sub frame whilst still supported by the ramps. This way I don't need my pesky axel stands which may damage my car.. Any thoughts?
I just place my Walmart $10 each stands where they touch a solid portion of the frame. There's some spots. I don't put much of anything on the so called scissor lift/jack spot with the welds. Just be sure you use wheel chalks or wood pieces under front wheels to keep car from rolling off stands. Then use floor jack to lower/raise the rear subframe to insert z1 collars. Needs to be lowered only about 1.5 - 2 inch. Just enough to pass the aluminum collars into their spots.
@@GettingthruLife This has proved most useful for me, thanks again. I put my car on jack stands at the pinch welds using rubber adapters which removed any of my concerns I'd posted previously about raising the car for this job. I followed your steps - I didn't remove my exhaust. Rust is a PIA here in Toronto. I found that the front part of the subframe complied nicely. Upper collars went in like a dream. The rear not so. I didn't remove the axel exhaust hangers and have now just done so like you did. This helped a little with lowering the rear but it's still not dropped down like yours has so I can only suspect that my aftermarket Invidia exhaust is prohibiting it from doing so. I think with a long pry bar I'll be able to remove the rear rubber ring and get enough room to insert the upper collar on the rear of the sub frame. I just re-watched your video to make sure there was nothing else at the rear stopping it from lowering nicely. There is not. Overall, it took me about 2hours in the drive - I started in my lunch hour! My electric nut runner/impact wrench saved the day with PB blaster everywhere to free those seized nuts!!! IT's a 2016 with not many km's on it but man is it rough underneath! Next up is the rear dif brace (60 second job on Z1's web site!!!! lol! they want to see my rust!) and then Z1 wheel spacers, and then the dreaded intercooler...... I'll save that for a long weekend! Cheers!
Cool, it's a learning curve doing these things the first time but very rewarding doing it yourself. The Z1 diff brace is better looking than my Pride Auto diff brace and the z1 likely does a better job in the side to side motion. Glad my video was helpful. That's my intention for making the videos. Thanks for following up with your results. Do you feel a good difference with the bushing collars installed?
@@GettingthruLife The home straight of the install wasn't as simple as I had hoped. A large pry bar helped persuade my rear sub frame to drop, which it did! giving me access for the rear upper bushings to be installed. I got them in, but not fully home, and would allow the weight of the car to seat them fully once back on the ground. Front top/bottom were straight forward, no problem with installing them However, fun started with the 4qty 14mm M10 x 1.5 sub frame mounting bolts. Rust, grit, grease combo, plus the bushing retaining bolt not being tighten up to seat the bushings, meant I struggled with 3 of 4 of the bolts. Fatigue didn't help. I cleaned the bolts. I tightened up the mounting nut to pull the brace snug and home where it would sit. I then slackened it off a little to line the brace up with the 2 14mm bolt holes. I got 3 of 4 home. One was trashed. I bought a new bolt from the hardware store to replace tomorrow. Everything torqued up and put back in place except the pointless little plastic tray/guards which purpose they seemingly serve is to rust up and be a PIA to access any car components. First round the block drive notes: As i drove off my drive, over the pavement onto the road (2 floor joints at 3 mph) I could tell the difference instantly! Felt like I'd lowered the car on stiffer suspension! What!? The wallowing nature of the car when turning, gone! it's now very sharp, and much more precise! I can't believe it! I am so happy. I went for a longer test drive on some local twisty roads and the car is much more enjoyable to drive now, by I'd say, 60%. It makes me want to drive it, which was a factor previously missing. I'll recheck my subframe nut torque in the next day as I expect things to bed in further. Thanks for your reply, and interest in my experience! It's great to share! Cheers.
Well, long story short, yes and no. I've been running into some stumbling blocks. Jotech Motorsports has plenty of experience with all Nissan Z's and GTR's plus many of the exotic cars and other previous year Q50 3.0t but I'm seeing some negative parameters in Ecutek phone app datalogging/live monitoring that I'm concerned with. Bottom line I wouldn't recommend Jotech as a tuner for the Q50 3.0t platform. I'm running their tune but the hp and Tq have been dropped down 30-40hp and same with torque. Car still runs good but not the product and service I paid for $980.00 More expensive to go AMS but they know the Q50 tuning software and cars computer likely better than anyone else. I'm not a long distance email tuning fan because lack of support and time it may actually to tune the car. That's why I went the local tuner route.
I'm not 100% sure by what is meant by gap in the front. Does that mean the gap in the actual collar shape or a gap when it's put on to the subframe before tightening or after tightening? All four of the subframe connecting bolts are torqued to sound that recommended 89. If you want to call me to explain in more detail you can, 214-442-3718.
I went out and looked at my car in closer detail. On the front collars their is a small gap between the old rubber isolated and the car's frame, but if you look into that area you should see the that the aluminum bushing collar is flush up against the bottom of the frame. I tried rotating the bushing collar piece around just to make sure it did not totally insert into the subframe's rubber portion more so I went with what I have. It's the same gap on both sides for me. Maybe 5 millimeters.
I'm in the process of doing my 2007 350z. Pretty much the same steps/collars are similar shape/size but there are differences. I don't have the rubber ring to cut also. I'm getting hung up on the front uppers. In videos I've seen for the 350z, everyone's front upper collars just drop right in pretty easily...but others have mentioned rotatee the opening to face the diff. In your car, you rotated them so that the opening in the 'C' shaped collar was towards the inside of the car correct? Mine actually like yours...you can push them down with fingers but then they kinda slide upwards. But i haven't been able to get the uppers aligned correctly. I've lowered the diff/gradually tightening the nuts but not extreme tightening. I think I'm going to take the wheels off so I can see up in there a lot easier. Been going at it from the bottom...and at night too(I work nightshift). I burn real easy and it's like 95-100 here in dallas/fort worth area...cooler qt night...but also a little darker too lol A year later...hows she handling? Thanks for the video.
In the Q50 at least how the collars are turned/rotated depend on the shape of the inside of the subframe insert. I don't remember now how I positioned them but yes when you push them in and release push in pressure, they will float back up a portion. I still like them. I think they do what they do pretty well. For me this is about as far as I would go altering the suspension due to I love the ride quality of the Q50 and the subframe collars took just a little bit away, bottom out feel and more noise but just a little bit more tighter feel. I also added last 2-3 months a Pride Auto Q50-60 bolt-on diff brace so the added a little stiffness addition with a little added noise. I'm more about fine tuning an well rounded daily driven adult mind car rather than a young man's stand out sports car. I've played with it just enough so not much more that needs to be done. It definitely needs more tire grip but that comes with more sacrifice in comfort and overall ride quality. Z1 motorsports limited slip helical differential would be nice to add one day and if and when Mishimoto completes their upgraded VR30 V6 intercoolers those might be cool to get.
@@GettingthruLife thank you , because I just installed mine subframe bushing on G37s coupe and i heard some squeaking sound when I went fa test drive , it appear if something was rubbing on something . I forgot to cut the rubber piece off . Do you think that can be the cause .
@@torvarrisevans3961 I have no idea for a G37. I advise you to follow the directions for your car model. For the Q50-60 the Z1 directions specify to remove the rubber pads.
Maybe just a ultra small amount. I coated mine in wd40 to help insert plus leave some lubricate behind. I think my squeaking most come from my pride auto diff brace when the suspension articulates over undeveloped ground.
If you want the max luxury ride, comfort and small bump absorption then don't add these bushing collars. They don't make a drastic difference but they do add stiffness and a little more firmness. On the otherhand, if you more regularly push the car with performance minded driving around the corners, higher speed maneuvers or for more straight line 0-60 advantage then I would consider. Many people won't mind the slight different feel and a little more road noise but super picky people might. Good thing is they are not terribly expensive. Just the time/effort putting them on the car.
2nd answer, no you don't need them for cruising and just average day to day driving. Hope this answers your question. I'm always here to answer questions if I can provide you with a fair and legit answer:)
@GettingthruLife Everytime I step on my brakes and vehicle comes to a complete stop the back of vehicle makes a clunking sound. It's like the weight of the vehicle settles after coming to a stop and then there's the clunking. Do you think it's the subframe bushing colors?
Very well could be. Also, could be related to the big, rubber mounted transmissions bushing in the subframe. Those wear out and can be replaced. Buy at Z1 Motorports. www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-urethane-rear-differential-bushing-set-p-34730.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ea1BhC6ARIsAEOG5pyx1Dm9587wKcQKFurW1Pg_4ldoRvTjAVhiZebzlvZlgCQrLAbywfAaAt5uEALw_wcB
Thank you for this video!! I chose not to remove exaust when installing from seeing your video. Bushings removal was key for lowering.
Yes of course. Glad I could help in a small in any way. The reason I make my videos and watch other's videos.
This video is a savior. I was a bit unsure about where to support the subframe to lower it and this helped me out a lot. Actually a lot simpler once you get started like you said. Now I have 40k on my car and these bushing changed driving feel tremendously. Acceleration response, turn response, shifting feel. All positives. I am getting a bit more road noise through the rear end but that is expected. Thanks for making this.
Thank you sir. Yep, more road noise transferred into the cabin and hard jolts are not absorbed like the factory setup but not a big increase. I am very sensitive to noise and vibration and this is about as good as it gets before getting too extreme.
Thanks for this video! It helped me do mine this afternoon after work. I had a few spots of confusion but your F R on the diagram and other things in the video helped me understand, then it got easy.
I know right...that little low res diagram of the subframe threw me for a loop until I could get my bearings. Got to know the orientation of the subframe in the instructions to place the bushing collars in the right spots. Front and rear specific. Yes, very helpful to see video to help you kind of figure out what you are getting into beforehand. Why I was appreciative of Kaydro Technologies TH-camr who puts out some informative videos here and there like his subframe collar install.
Thanks for letting me know my video was helpful to some degree. A more rigid subframe connection is/will be a big plus. Glad there's a company like Z1 to make this part.
Video definitely helped with a few things. I have an aftermarket exhaust so it was much easier to remove. All in all, probably took like 2 hours 🙌. Thanks for the video.
And when I was removing the old oem nuts and bolts for the oem exhaust, I broke the bolt 😂
Half the battle is walking into the unknown. Once you do these things it like heck I could do that really fast the the 2nd time. I'm glad I could be some kind of help. The reason why I make videos. Not to make money even though money is nice. Making videos should be about enjoyment or at least for me. Helps me to know by comments that I'm not worthless at making videos:)
What do you think about change? Was it worth the price and install?
@@GettingthruLife definitely worth the change, on top of the car finally sounding how it's suppose to (in my opinion), it's almost ready for a tune!
Thanks for posting the video. i received my collars in the mail yesterday. I have one question about where you had your axel stands supporting the car. Are they at the pinch welds? My axel stands are Y shaped and I don't like using them on the pinch welds as they can deform / damage the area. I am considering doing this task with the rear wheels on floor ramps (do all the prep work and removing components) then to use my jack and rubber puck on the pinch welds to lift the car/separate the sub frame whilst still supported by the ramps. This way I don't need my pesky axel stands which may damage my car.. Any thoughts?
I just place my Walmart $10 each stands where they touch a solid portion of the frame. There's some spots. I don't put much of anything on the so called scissor lift/jack spot with the welds. Just be sure you use wheel chalks or wood pieces under front wheels to keep car from rolling off stands. Then use floor jack to lower/raise the rear subframe to insert z1 collars. Needs to be lowered only about 1.5 - 2 inch. Just enough to pass the aluminum collars into their spots.
@@GettingthruLife This has proved most useful for me, thanks again. I put my car on jack stands at the pinch welds using rubber adapters which removed any of my concerns I'd posted previously about raising the car for this job. I followed your steps - I didn't remove my exhaust. Rust is a PIA here in Toronto. I found that the front part of the subframe complied nicely. Upper collars went in like a dream. The rear not so. I didn't remove the axel exhaust hangers and have now just done so like you did. This helped a little with lowering the rear but it's still not dropped down like yours has so I can only suspect that my aftermarket Invidia exhaust is prohibiting it from doing so. I think with a long pry bar I'll be able to remove the rear rubber ring and get enough room to insert the upper collar on the rear of the sub frame. I just re-watched your video to make sure there was nothing else at the rear stopping it from lowering nicely. There is not. Overall, it took me about 2hours in the drive - I started in my lunch hour! My electric nut runner/impact wrench saved the day with PB blaster everywhere to free those seized nuts!!! IT's a 2016 with not many km's on it but man is it rough underneath! Next up is the rear dif brace (60 second job on Z1's web site!!!! lol! they want to see my rust!) and then Z1 wheel spacers, and then the dreaded intercooler...... I'll save that for a long weekend! Cheers!
Cool, it's a learning curve doing these things the first time but very rewarding doing it yourself. The Z1 diff brace is better looking than my Pride Auto diff brace and the z1 likely does a better job in the side to side motion.
Glad my video was helpful. That's my intention for making the videos. Thanks for following up with your results. Do you feel a good difference with the bushing collars installed?
@@GettingthruLife The home straight of the install wasn't as simple as I had hoped. A large pry bar helped persuade my rear sub frame to drop, which it did! giving me access for the rear upper bushings to be installed. I got them in, but not fully home, and would allow the weight of the car to seat them fully once back on the ground. Front top/bottom were straight forward, no problem with installing them However, fun started with the 4qty 14mm M10 x 1.5 sub frame mounting bolts. Rust, grit, grease combo, plus the bushing retaining bolt not being tighten up to seat the bushings, meant I struggled with 3 of 4 of the bolts. Fatigue didn't help. I cleaned the bolts. I tightened up the mounting nut to pull the brace snug and home where it would sit. I then slackened it off a little to line the brace up with the 2 14mm bolt holes. I got 3 of 4 home. One was trashed. I bought a new bolt from the hardware store to replace tomorrow. Everything torqued up and put back in place except the pointless little plastic tray/guards which purpose they seemingly serve is to rust up and be a PIA to access any car components. First round the block drive notes: As i drove off my drive, over the pavement onto the road (2 floor joints at 3 mph) I could tell the difference instantly! Felt like I'd lowered the car on stiffer suspension! What!? The wallowing nature of the car when turning, gone! it's now very sharp, and much more precise! I can't believe it! I am so happy. I went for a longer test drive on some local twisty roads and the car is much more enjoyable to drive now, by I'd say, 60%. It makes me want to drive it, which was a factor previously missing. I'll recheck my subframe nut torque in the next day as I expect things to bed in further. Thanks for your reply, and interest in my experience! It's great to share! Cheers.
yeah i juzt fitted it today
drivez an lot better then like an 🐳 before
Good to hear! For the money the Z1 bushing collars are worth it. Thanks for sharing.
Pretty sweet. How is the tune working out for you?
Well, long story short, yes and no. I've been running into some stumbling blocks. Jotech Motorsports has plenty of experience with all Nissan Z's and GTR's plus many of the exotic cars and other previous year Q50 3.0t but I'm seeing some negative parameters in Ecutek phone app datalogging/live monitoring that I'm concerned with. Bottom line I wouldn't recommend Jotech as a tuner for the Q50 3.0t platform. I'm running their tune but the hp and Tq have been dropped down 30-40hp and same with torque. Car still runs good but not the product and service I paid for $980.00
More expensive to go AMS but they know the Q50 tuning software and cars computer likely better than anyone else. I'm not a long distance email tuning fan because lack of support and time it may actually to tune the car. That's why I went the local tuner route.
Hey man, did you have a gap in the top front collars? And did you torque all bolts/nuts to 89 ?
I'm not 100% sure by what is meant by gap in the front. Does that mean the gap in the actual collar shape or a gap when it's put on to the subframe before tightening or after tightening? All four of the subframe connecting bolts are torqued to sound that recommended 89.
If you want to call me to explain in more detail you can, 214-442-3718.
I went out and looked at my car in closer detail. On the front collars their is a small gap between the old rubber isolated and the car's frame, but if you look into that area you should see the that the aluminum bushing collar is flush up against the bottom of the frame. I tried rotating the bushing collar piece around just to make sure it did not totally insert into the subframe's rubber portion more so I went with what I have. It's the same gap on both sides for me. Maybe 5 millimeters.
I'm in the process of doing my 2007 350z. Pretty much the same steps/collars are similar shape/size but there are differences. I don't have the rubber ring to cut also.
I'm getting hung up on the front uppers. In videos I've seen for the 350z, everyone's front upper collars just drop right in pretty easily...but others have mentioned rotatee the opening to face the diff. In your car, you rotated them so that the opening in the 'C' shaped collar was towards the inside of the car correct? Mine actually like yours...you can push them down with fingers but then they kinda slide upwards. But i haven't been able to get the uppers aligned correctly. I've lowered the diff/gradually tightening the nuts but not extreme tightening. I think I'm going to take the wheels off so I can see up in there a lot easier. Been going at it from the bottom...and at night too(I work nightshift). I burn real easy and it's like 95-100 here in dallas/fort worth area...cooler qt night...but also a little darker too lol
A year later...hows she handling? Thanks for the video.
In the Q50 at least how the collars are turned/rotated depend on the shape of the inside of the subframe insert. I don't remember now how I positioned them but yes when you push them in and release push in pressure, they will float back up a portion.
I still like them. I think they do what they do pretty well. For me this is about as far as I would go altering the suspension due to I love the ride quality of the Q50 and the subframe collars took just a little bit away, bottom out feel and more noise but just a little bit more tighter feel. I also added last 2-3 months a Pride Auto Q50-60 bolt-on diff brace so the added a little stiffness addition with a little added noise. I'm more about fine tuning an well rounded daily driven adult mind car rather than a young man's stand out sports car.
I've played with it just enough so not much more that needs to be done. It definitely needs more tire grip but that comes with more sacrifice in comfort and overall ride quality.
Z1 motorsports limited slip helical differential would be nice to add one day and if and when Mishimoto completes their upgraded VR30 V6 intercoolers those might be cool to get.
Nice video bro , do I really have to cut the rubber piece off
Yes, in the rear where the left and right top collars will touch the frame. I used small garden snips/ small branch sheer. Made it super easy.
@@GettingthruLife thank you , because I just installed mine subframe bushing on G37s coupe and i heard some squeaking sound when I went fa test drive , it appear if something was rubbing on something . I forgot to cut the rubber piece off . Do you think that can be the cause .
@@torvarrisevans3961 I have no idea for a G37. I advise you to follow the directions for your car model. For the Q50-60 the Z1 directions specify to remove the rubber pads.
@@GettingthruLife thank you
Did it give you squeaking noise after installing?
Maybe just a ultra small amount. I coated mine in wd40 to help insert plus leave some lubricate behind. I think my squeaking most come from my pride auto diff brace when the suspension articulates over undeveloped ground.
I have 18' q50 rwd. Do you think these are worth it just for daily drive? No hard driving just normal cruise
If you want the max luxury ride, comfort and small bump absorption then don't add these bushing collars. They don't make a drastic difference but they do add stiffness and a little more firmness. On the otherhand, if you more regularly push the car with performance minded driving around the corners, higher speed maneuvers or for more straight line 0-60 advantage then I would consider.
Many people won't mind the slight different feel and a little more road noise but super picky people might. Good thing is they are not terribly expensive. Just the time/effort putting them on the car.
2nd answer, no you don't need them for cruising and just average day to day driving. Hope this answers your question. I'm always here to answer questions if I can provide you with a fair and legit answer:)
Got it. Thanks for your help!
Is your car RWD or AWD
It's rwd
@GettingthruLife Everytime I step on my brakes and vehicle comes to a complete stop the back of vehicle makes a clunking sound. It's like the weight of the vehicle settles after coming to a stop and then there's the clunking. Do you think it's the subframe bushing colors?
Very well could be. Also, could be related to the big, rubber mounted transmissions bushing in the subframe. Those wear out and can be replaced. Buy at Z1 Motorports. www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-urethane-rear-differential-bushing-set-p-34730.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ea1BhC6ARIsAEOG5pyx1Dm9587wKcQKFurW1Pg_4ldoRvTjAVhiZebzlvZlgCQrLAbywfAaAt5uEALw_wcB