Soooo, I finally had enough time to watch the whole video! Great job that seemed to take forever for you but went by in a flash for us! Well done sticking to it in between all the rest of the things that your life includes! Here are my thoughts (some from what I've learned on the first lawn tractor I've worked on, a v-twin), in no particular order: -When I suspect the fuel system may not be delivering, I check for the "click" of the fuel solenoid first by switching the ignition on and off. Doesn't require any tools or time. If I hear that click, then it's time to go to what you did - check that the fuel pump is functional (except that I attach a hose leading into a catch can so I don't lose any fuel and also if I want to make sure there's no water in the tank I can check what I've drained). If that's working but not flowing very well then I go to the fuel tank itself to make sure there isn't any debris plugging up the outlet or a dirty filter in the line. If you start upstream then you're wasting effort because you may have to do every one of the above before finding the culprit. Doing things in an efficient order ends up saving a lot of time and effort in the end. At 76 I don't have a moment to lose! ;-) -I would have totally disassembled the original carb and intake and cleaned it really well. I do this on pretty much every engine I work on and have only discovered one failed carb so far - one with a worn throttle plate shaft which cause an air leak. Easy for me to say this now, of course, but you learned the hard way that there were air leaks that would have been discovered if you'd had just a bit more patience. Oh well! ;-) Every carb goes through two 30-minute cycles in the ultrasonic with a shift in position in between, then the parts are rinsed well and sprayed with WD-40 to avoid flash rust of steel parts. -That wire stripper you've got seems like it makes quick, easy work of stripping, but I thought I saw crimping dohickey's (that's a technical term) on the inside of the handles. Doesn't it do crimping as well? Probably not for that style of connector. I didn't see you test pull that first connector - gotta pull every single one to make sure the crimp holds, right? ;-) -When you first got this engine running it sounded to me like something was amiss and I suspected one cylinder wasn't firing, but I don't have enough experience to confirm engine issues by sound yet, although I'm learning. That said, if it's a twin engine of any kind I'd let it run just long enough to slightly warm up and then feel the valve covers (NOT the exhaust!) to see if one is cool while the other is warm. That's a huge giveaway that a cylinder isn't contributing, for whatever reason. When you checked the spark plugs I was very much expecting to see one of them much cleaner than the other and my suspicion was immediately confirmed on the right one, which you observed seemed to be running lean. At that point I would have pulled that spark plug boot while the engine was running to see if there was any difference (which you eventually did on both cylinders). I would then have pulled both valve covers, checked and adjusted valve lashes - something I would do as a matter of course anyway on a job like this. Some manufacturers actually state in the owners manual to check clearances every X number of hours. -I think that one spindle bearing is still wonky and not acceptable. I suspect metal fragments have migrated into the bearing itself from whatever that metal debris was. I would have removed the seals, flushed it out with brake clean, spun it slowly over a magnet, greased and tried again and if it still made any noise it would have been replaced because it's just a problem for someone down the road (and potential comeback). -Glad to see you replaced the fuel filter with a decent one. I mistakenly bought some of those red filters early on and now only use them when a larger paper filter won't fit or there's not enough head from the tank on an engine with no fuel pump. Also glad to see you illustrated the misplacement of that air prefilter - an easy mistake to make for an owner who doesn't understand air intake systems. -I only use new NGK spark plugs, although most of the time I clean up existing plugs on my wire wheel or torch them out if really bad but decent mfr. quality like Champion or original Briggs. I don't replace unless I have a strong suspicion the existing ones are bad, which hasn't happened to me yet. I would NEVER use the crap ones that come in service kits like the ones you used. Those are guaranteed to be garbage. -My inclination would have been to replace that seat, especially since you went to the trouble of all that laborious taping and beautiful paint work! The seat is really the only cosmetic flaw in the whole job! Surely you have a decent seat on another one of your tractors you could swap in and maybe save that flawed seat for some other use? Save it for your son's first tractor? As fast as they grow it'll only be a couple years before he starts bugging you to let him drive one, right? ;-) Keep up the great work, Kyle - we all learn from each other's mistakes (and our own, hopefully!).
Hey, I have the same kind of ramps. What I did is put a drill hole on the top and used a dry wall screw. With a washer scrubbed down on a trailer and ahold there. To the trailer
Great solution! I have extending plastic ramps I use with my van and the time it takes to lock them in with ratchet straps is a real pain. I may just install some permanent nuts flush with the bed with coarse threads and keep some bolts in the van for that purpose. Thanks! I just acquired a used trailer that needs a bunch of work, but someday I hope to have it on the road with a one-piece fold down ramp.
Great job Kyle :) I found out, That you can replace all six bearings for about $20. Remove the inner seals and put a grease fitting in. Sounds like new when finished. Grease fitting will allow the bearings to go till the machine is done with and scrap metal. The idlers, are personal preferance, grease or replace, depends on your budget and if you want all the noise gone. But the spindles can be made like new with bearings, probably no more time than just greasing the old bearings. Ounce the ball bearings and races are pitted they will make noise and will create friction and eventually fail. Usually a smooth quiet deck, will sell the machine. Thanks again for sharing your journey :)
With the idler bearings, drill out the 4:20 spot welds. Take the 2 halves apart. The bearing will come right out. Replace with the same bearing most spindles use a 6203. Put the 2 Halves together with nuts and bolts. I use 1/4 20 bolts with lock nuts 1/2 inch long. Where it really pays is when the bearing goes bad again much easier and cheaper to replace. I buy the bearings on line 10 for less than $20. Saves money over replacing the idler pulleys.
Geez, Kyle, I didn’t realize until today you were also doing timestamps for your videos! How much extra time and work does that take you? For people like me who are teaching themselves this can be a huge asset sometimes in rewatching segments. For me also I sometimes bookmark specific sections of videos to file for future use and this will be invaluable so I’m not having to skim through lots of video to locate a single clip. Thank you so much! Now, on to my Sunday chores and I’ll save your video to enjoy and learn from later. 🙏🔧👍
It takes some extra work for sure, but I’m really glad to hear this positive feedback. That’s the exact reason why I put in the chapters for you guys! Enjoy
I had one of those it was a 42". The headlight assembly comes apart pretty easy to clean up inside, comes out pretty good. I sold it last yr. Put a new belt on the mower and the belt was smoking. Never figured it out, sold it for $350. The mower was given to me by a coworker who was moving
Nice restore. I bought a YTH2148 for the engine. It too ran one cylinder, but with a broken rod. The fact that it was covered in oil should have given me a clue that it ran out of oil and broke the rod. Those Nikki carbs are a problem and need to be cleaned well. Glad you fixed it.
I watched the whole video Klye. I learned a lot from it, wanted you to know I appreciate you posting it. Ive fought with used riding mowers for 17 years, I have over 3 acres of lawn to mow, and have always found it a necessity to have two mowers on hand because one always brakes and usually the second one will too shortly after needing to use it. My wife does most of the mowing on our farm, and its been hell for her dealing with all the eccentricities of used riders. Broke out the lawn mower and the pto just wouldn't engage, and getting it started was always a hassle anyways, so we went to plan B lawnmower, an oldJD 116. It starts fine, but as soon as you engage the pto it cuts out like its under powered. This plan B mower has always done that to some degree, but, I had enough this year, took the Mrs to the Fleet Farm store and bought a Husqvarna 46" with a 21.5 Hp Kawasaki. Had to go with 46" to squeeze between our gates. Its been nice not constantly pissing around trying to get old stuff from not breaking down constantly, but you video made me decide to try getting the old JD going again. Going to check both cylinders for running by pulling spark off one, then the other to see if there's some difference between the two, and then check that seat switch, and then do some valve lash checks on the valves. Had to do it years ago on an old Kawasaki I had, in the middle of winter I worked on it and found it needed to be warm to properly lash the valves. Anyway, youve given an old man some young man inspiration here to keep trying. God Bless you and your young family.
I'm working on a 2006 John Deere, 145 Automatic. 22 horsepower Briggs V twin. Ran into a lot of little problems . Have most everything working properly, now the engine runs rough. Changed spark plugs, nothing good. It runs great when cold and back fire's through the muffler when warm. I think it's running lean. I opened the metering jets. Helped very little. I think it may have a vacuum leak.
I finally got my craftsman ys lawn mower finished and running again had to get a new carburetor put on the engine was hydro locked because of the oil was completely filled with gas the mower is a hydro drive did a few videos on this mower glad you are doing a great refurbishing job on your Husqvarna mower
Your work is amazing. Pretty sure your tractors are coming out better than mine. I know the feeling of trying to get repairs done with a job and family. I love the video work, editing, and great job you do on these machines. I can’t wait to see your channel get huge this year 😎😎💪🇺🇸
the carb solenoid has nothing to do with the engine filling with fuel- it is the float needle that is the cause-- I have been working on small engines for over 65 years;
The solenoid just closes off the jet so the engine can't suck up any fuel while its spinning down when you shut it off the back fire is fuel getting through the system into the exhaust, the needle and seat is what would cause you to turn the gas off with an inline fuel shut off, not an angry commenter, just explaining something, great video once again! Keep up with the great content!
Question, if the fuel shut off valve stops fuel from going into the engine, how does fuel get in the engine with the fuel valve blocking fuel from going into the engine?
@bertgrau3934 the in line shut off needs to be on to get fuel supply to the carb but if the needle and seat isn't sealing, it allows extra fuel to go through and flood the engine, the electronic fuel solenoid shuts off the fuel from going up the jet into the engine and sometimes causing a backfire
When showing us the carb jet holes 2 openings on each side was seen. That might possibly mean the tiny wire left the clog in pushing two holes through. It should still work well.
@@Kylebythecreek My craftsman I picked for free is identical to your Husqvarna must be made by the same manufacturer. My engine was blown so I installed a 20hp opposed twin Briggs and Stratton so far so good. I used the stator and regulator from the intek vtwin .
If the ground from the battery grounds to the frame or the engine as they usually do and the solenoid mounts to metal, it is unlikely you need to use the ground wire because the solenoid would ground through the frame. The solenoids with a ground wire may not ground through the bracket, making it necessary to have a ground wire.
Spray some brake clean on those intake connectors when it's running,if it speeds up the engine rpms ,you have a leak sucking excisive air there to seal
If you hit the black front grill and the plastic dash with a heat gun or torch it will restore the black color and shine.. look up videos on youtube about it. it works very well just be careful.. maybe the steering wheel too?
Got one just like it almost..My motor says 22hp els..lol.Yours hydrostatic mine has the high low tranny..Hoods are exact..Headlight lens want come out. Shrunken over time I guess.. Enjoyed..❤
Those bearing are cheap on line ,just match up the numbers and buy bulk sets ,as there are only 3 or 4 bearing model sizes used on most of those cheap mowers,you have a choice although what to buy and use on ebay lines ,priced accordingly to quality for sure. American,Japanese, German or China manufactured bearings so to select from, as most residential model mowers use those cheaper bearings designed not to last much beyond their warranties
Hey Kyle, great video. I have my John Deere GX345 seat & foot rest all tore down. Wanting to sand it down and was wondering what grit of sandpaper you used? Love your little helper in the background. Reminds me of my grandson. Thanks.
Usually when I pick them up ,the next stop is to a nearest car wash while they are on the trailer yet and a couple bucks later and before spraying you must seal up the open engine orficies left open by the previous idiot or idiots.You' ll enjoy working on them and restoring them much more .I stopped working on those dirty ones from now on,it makes my life much easier working on that old abused neglected junk,, Hey get a gal and mix up and try the fiberglass rosin on the rusting decks after sanding and cleaning them up before finish painting ,,you ll only have to do it once and it last forevermore ,,it really flips and sells also if you advertise you doing so in your resell adds, as a much improved anti-rust treatment forever deck coating .You know as wet grass cuttings come to be very acidic laying on top of the steel decks after mowing,esp if the mower left uncovered and left out in the rain and never been blown off or cleaned underneath after using it ,,it burns the one coat paint factory cheap paint job right off the steel
That tiny battery did more than a couple of starts. That was more like 6 or seven long tries. Say, removing that seat safety tells me all the electric power from the stator flows through the seat safety switch. Now would be the time to remove your new voltage regulator as you will soon need it.
28:09 If they served any purpose other than stopping dieseling (run on) after shut down you wouldn't be cleaning that carb. Where as if there were an inline valve that carb would be spotless. All these modern carbs can be a full jet richer across the board. Lower altitude and large displacement engines two jet sizes. Then nobody has to worry about dieseling on shut down because the combustion chamber is not hot enough.
I bought the same model however the voltage regulator was missing and so are the wires not sure where those wire should be coming from and connect into the voltage regulator that I plan on buying any help
Pretty informative when it comes to mechanical information... The paint job and seat repair wasnt great, but there was still good info to be found in this video. The ridiculous amount of commercials in this video was the worst I have seen yet. Made me want to shut the video off a half dozen times. With that being said... This was pretty good overall.
Your lucky to fairly nice mowers and twin engines, most down here are the cheapest single cylinder engines possible now 😢😢😢 They might last 5 years if you keep them serviced and baby it 😢
And I'm wondering why you didn't put a fuel shut off on in previous videos you said you like putting fuel shut off on all the lawn tractors you work on
@@philliphall5198 I could see the benefit for shut off on this system if someone wanted to run the carb out of fuel for storage. But, I didn’t install one. It’ll be fine.
I saved a 2004 Murray about 2 years ago. I swapped out the bad engine with a good engine. Going from a 12.5 horsepower to a 25 horsepower. Nothing like doubling the horsepower.
You did great on the mechanics but your upholstery skills need some improvement hahaha I like your videos today is my first time seeing you. I subscribed to your channel today. I look forward to see more of your videos in the future.
I spoke the transmission manufacturer, and he said most of the time when people think it is a bad drive belt, they replace it an it works better, but what actually made it work better is that everyone is also cleaning off the accumulated debris that gets clogged in the external moving parts at the top of these hydrostatic plastic transmissions. This cleaning is the actual fix, and the drive belt rarely goes bad. There is often very poor access to the top of the transmission, so it is hard to keep clean on a regular basis.
Soooo, I finally had enough time to watch the whole video! Great job that seemed to take forever for you but went by in a flash for us! Well done sticking to it in between all the rest of the things that your life includes!
Here are my thoughts (some from what I've learned on the first lawn tractor I've worked on, a v-twin), in no particular order:
-When I suspect the fuel system may not be delivering, I check for the "click" of the fuel solenoid first by switching the ignition on and off. Doesn't require any tools or time. If I hear that click, then it's time to go to what you did - check that the fuel pump is functional (except that I attach a hose leading into a catch can so I don't lose any fuel and also if I want to make sure there's no water in the tank I can check what I've drained). If that's working but not flowing very well then I go to the fuel tank itself to make sure there isn't any debris plugging up the outlet or a dirty filter in the line. If you start upstream then you're wasting effort because you may have to do every one of the above before finding the culprit. Doing things in an efficient order ends up saving a lot of time and effort in the end. At 76 I don't have a moment to lose! ;-)
-I would have totally disassembled the original carb and intake and cleaned it really well. I do this on pretty much every engine I work on and have only discovered one failed carb so far - one with a worn throttle plate shaft which cause an air leak. Easy for me to say this now, of course, but you learned the hard way that there were air leaks that would have been discovered if you'd had just a bit more patience. Oh well! ;-) Every carb goes through two 30-minute cycles in the ultrasonic with a shift in position in between, then the parts are rinsed well and sprayed with WD-40 to avoid flash rust of steel parts.
-That wire stripper you've got seems like it makes quick, easy work of stripping, but I thought I saw crimping dohickey's (that's a technical term) on the inside of the handles. Doesn't it do crimping as well? Probably not for that style of connector. I didn't see you test pull that first connector - gotta pull every single one to make sure the crimp holds, right? ;-)
-When you first got this engine running it sounded to me like something was amiss and I suspected one cylinder wasn't firing, but I don't have enough experience to confirm engine issues by sound yet, although I'm learning. That said, if it's a twin engine of any kind I'd let it run just long enough to slightly warm up and then feel the valve covers (NOT the exhaust!) to see if one is cool while the other is warm. That's a huge giveaway that a cylinder isn't contributing, for whatever reason. When you checked the spark plugs I was very much expecting to see one of them much cleaner than the other and my suspicion was immediately confirmed on the right one, which you observed seemed to be running lean. At that point I would have pulled that spark plug boot while the engine was running to see if there was any difference (which you eventually did on both cylinders). I would then have pulled both valve covers, checked and adjusted valve lashes - something I would do as a matter of course anyway on a job like this. Some manufacturers actually state in the owners manual to check clearances every X number of hours.
-I think that one spindle bearing is still wonky and not acceptable. I suspect metal fragments have migrated into the bearing itself from whatever that metal debris was. I would have removed the seals, flushed it out with brake clean, spun it slowly over a magnet, greased and tried again and if it still made any noise it would have been replaced because it's just a problem for someone down the road (and potential comeback).
-Glad to see you replaced the fuel filter with a decent one. I mistakenly bought some of those red filters early on and now only use them when a larger paper filter won't fit or there's not enough head from the tank on an engine with no fuel pump. Also glad to see you illustrated the misplacement of that air prefilter - an easy mistake to make for an owner who doesn't understand air intake systems.
-I only use new NGK spark plugs, although most of the time I clean up existing plugs on my wire wheel or torch them out if really bad but decent mfr. quality like Champion or original Briggs. I don't replace unless I have a strong suspicion the existing ones are bad, which hasn't happened to me yet. I would NEVER use the crap ones that come in service kits like the ones you used. Those are guaranteed to be garbage.
-My inclination would have been to replace that seat, especially since you went to the trouble of all that laborious taping and beautiful paint work! The seat is really the only cosmetic flaw in the whole job! Surely you have a decent seat on another one of your tractors you could swap in and maybe save that flawed seat for some other use? Save it for your son's first tractor? As fast as they grow it'll only be a couple years before he starts bugging you to let him drive one, right? ;-)
Keep up the great work, Kyle - we all learn from each other's mistakes (and our own, hopefully!).
Hey, I have the same kind of ramps. What I did is put a drill hole on the top and used a dry wall screw. With a washer scrubbed down on a trailer and ahold there. To the trailer
Great solution! I have extending plastic ramps I use with my van and the time it takes to lock them in with ratchet straps is a real pain. I may just install some permanent nuts flush with the bed with coarse threads and keep some bolts in the van for that purpose. Thanks! I just acquired a used trailer that needs a bunch of work, but someday I hope to have it on the road with a one-piece fold down ramp.
Great job Kyle :) I found out, That you can replace all six bearings for about $20. Remove the inner seals and put a grease fitting in. Sounds like new when finished. Grease fitting will allow the bearings to go till the machine is done with and scrap metal. The idlers, are personal preferance, grease or replace, depends on your budget and if you want all the noise gone. But the spindles can be made like new with bearings, probably no more time than just greasing the old bearings. Ounce the ball bearings and races are pitted they will make noise and will create friction and eventually fail. Usually a smooth quiet deck, will sell the machine. Thanks again for sharing your journey :)
With the idler bearings, drill out the 4:20 spot welds. Take the 2 halves apart. The bearing will come right out. Replace with the same bearing most spindles use a 6203. Put the 2 Halves together with nuts and bolts. I use 1/4 20 bolts with lock nuts 1/2 inch long. Where it really pays is when the bearing goes bad again much easier and cheaper to replace. I buy the bearings on line 10 for less than $20. Saves money over replacing the idler pulleys.
It is good to see young people getting their hands dirty
I agree most are lazy and play video games all the time 😢
I was teaching a young fella how to fix mowers-he just walked away@@philliphall5198
Kyle Culbertson is goated
Can't believe I watched a 1.5 hour video about a mower I don't even own 😆
Haha. Got ya!
Geez, Kyle, I didn’t realize until today you were also doing timestamps for your videos! How much extra time and work does that take you? For people like me who are teaching themselves this can be a huge asset sometimes in rewatching segments. For me also I sometimes bookmark specific sections of videos to file for future use and this will be invaluable so I’m not having to skim through lots of video to locate a single clip. Thank you so much! Now, on to my Sunday chores and I’ll save your video to enjoy and learn from later. 🙏🔧👍
It takes some extra work for sure, but I’m really glad to hear this positive feedback. That’s the exact reason why I put in the chapters for you guys! Enjoy
I had one of those it was a 42". The headlight assembly comes apart pretty easy to clean up inside, comes out pretty good. I sold it last yr. Put a new belt on the mower and the belt was smoking. Never figured it out, sold it for $350. The mower was given to me by a coworker who was moving
Good job there! Nice to see some Swedish and American quality back on track again!
Nice restore. I bought a YTH2148 for the engine. It too ran one cylinder, but with a broken rod. The fact that it was covered in oil should have given me a clue that it ran out of oil and broke the rod. Those Nikki carbs are a problem and need to be cleaned well. Glad you fixed it.
Thanks!
Kyle not too long ago I bought a pair of ratcheting wire crimpers from Harbor Freight and they’re great! I highly recommend them
I watched the whole video Klye. I learned a lot from it, wanted you to know I appreciate you posting it. Ive fought with used riding mowers for 17 years, I have over 3 acres of lawn to mow, and have always found it a necessity to have two mowers on hand because one always brakes and usually the second one will too shortly after needing to use it. My wife does most of the mowing on our farm, and its been hell for her dealing with all the eccentricities of used riders. Broke out the lawn mower and the pto just wouldn't engage, and getting it started was always a hassle anyways, so we went to plan B lawnmower, an oldJD 116. It starts fine, but as soon as you engage the pto it cuts out like its under powered. This plan B mower has always done that to some degree, but, I had enough this year, took the Mrs to the Fleet Farm store and bought a Husqvarna 46" with a 21.5 Hp Kawasaki. Had to go with 46" to squeeze between our gates. Its been nice not constantly pissing around trying to get old stuff from not breaking down constantly, but you video made me decide to try getting the old JD going again. Going to check both cylinders for running by pulling spark off one, then the other to see if there's some difference between the two, and then check that seat switch, and then do some valve lash checks on the valves. Had to do it years ago on an old Kawasaki I had, in the middle of winter I worked on it and found it needed to be warm to properly lash the valves. Anyway, youve given an old man some young man inspiration here to keep trying. God Bless you and your young family.
I'm working on a 2006 John Deere, 145 Automatic. 22 horsepower Briggs V twin. Ran into a lot of little problems . Have most everything working properly, now
the engine runs rough. Changed spark plugs, nothing good. It runs great when cold and back fire's through the muffler when warm. I think it's running lean. I opened the metering jets. Helped very little. I think it may have a vacuum leak.
Can’t wait to see the finished product!
I finally got my craftsman ys lawn mower finished and running again had to get a new carburetor put on the engine was hydro locked because of the oil was completely filled with gas the mower is a hydro drive did a few videos on this mower glad you are doing a great refurbishing job on your Husqvarna mower
Thanks!
@@Kylebythecreek your welcome Kyle by the creek
Your work is amazing. Pretty sure your tractors are coming out better than mine. I know the feeling of trying to get repairs done with a job and family. I love the video work, editing, and great job you do on these machines. I can’t wait to see your channel get huge this year 😎😎💪🇺🇸
Thanks Alex!
I always laugh at the funny compression sound when you were having trouble cranking it lol!
Nicely done. I love seeing lawnmower restorations.
Thanks! Me too!
This was a great rebuild.
Thank you!
the carb solenoid has nothing to do with the engine filling with fuel- it is the float needle that is the cause-- I have been working on small engines for over 65 years;
Womp womp
Isn't the carb solenoid the "backfire preventer"? It engages when the key is turned to the acc position.
I agree it’s not to stop the needle from flooding the block with gas
It’s best to have a manual cut off valve and check oil before and during use 😊
The solenoid just closes off the jet so the engine can't suck up any fuel while its spinning down when you shut it off the back fire is fuel getting through the system into the exhaust, the needle and seat is what would cause you to turn the gas off with an inline fuel shut off, not an angry commenter, just explaining something, great video once again! Keep up with the great content!
Question, if the fuel shut off valve stops fuel from going into the engine, how does fuel get in the engine with the fuel valve blocking fuel from going into the engine?
@bertgrau3934 the in line shut off needs to be on to get fuel supply to the carb but if the needle and seat isn't sealing, it allows extra fuel to go through and flood the engine, the electronic fuel solenoid shuts off the fuel from going up the jet into the engine and sometimes causing a backfire
@@jameslawnmowerrepair
Thanks that helps to understand what's going on. Appreciate your response.
@bertgrau3934 you're welcome, I find it hard to explain to someone without a visual, glad I could help!
When showing us the carb jet holes 2 openings on each side was seen. That might possibly mean the tiny wire left the clog in pushing two holes through. It should still work well.
The ground wire to the coil are the kill wires. If you unhook them the engine will run.That would test you diode. Great video.
Thank you!
@@Kylebythecreek My craftsman I picked for free is identical to your Husqvarna must be made by the same manufacturer. My engine was blown so I installed a 20hp opposed twin Briggs and Stratton so far so good. I used the stator and regulator from the intek vtwin .
Nice work in this Husqvarna tractor, love those briggs v -twin engines
If the ground from the battery grounds to the frame or the engine as they usually do and the solenoid mounts to metal, it is unlikely you need to use the ground wire because the solenoid would ground through the frame. The solenoids with a ground wire may not ground through the bracket, making it necessary to have a ground wire.
why does it sound like its honking like a goose every time it shuts off lol?
Spray some brake clean on those intake connectors when it's running,if it speeds up the engine rpms ,you have a leak sucking excisive air there to seal
Taryle fixes all has a good video on the diode :) Hope that helps. Carb fixed it, so thats golden :) Perfect
If you hit the black front grill and the plastic dash with a heat gun or torch it will restore the black color and shine.. look up videos on youtube about it. it works very well just be careful.. maybe the steering wheel too?
Black polyurethane flashing seal at Lowe's in a caulk tube is the best,after it sets up in remains flexible and it's tough as hell
Your mower came out great btw. The Husqvarna I had was more fun to use than my other mower a Cub Cadet
What is the model number of your Husqvarna and your Cub cadet? 🤩
@@Kylebythecreek The Cub Cadet is an LT2042. The Husqvarna was also an LT 2042. It ran well and looked good. Sold it last yr for $350
Klye just keep up the good jobs you are doing,, they look fantastic...73s Herbert Abegg
Thank you! Will do
Got one just like it almost..My motor says 22hp els..lol.Yours hydrostatic mine has the high low tranny..Hoods are exact..Headlight lens want come out. Shrunken over time I guess..
Enjoyed..❤
Thanks!
You should get a form funnel for the oil filter it does great so you don't have to use paper towels
Those bearing are cheap on line ,just match up the numbers and buy bulk sets ,as there are only 3 or 4 bearing model sizes used on most of those cheap mowers,you have a choice although what to buy and use on ebay lines ,priced accordingly to quality for sure. American,Japanese, German or China manufactured bearings so to select from, as most residential model mowers use those cheaper bearings designed not to last much beyond their warranties
sounds lean maybe even from factory, carb clean spray straw around intake leak? running. no compression, leakdown test? good work overall
Enjoyed the journey.
Thanks!
Hey Kyle, great video. I have my John Deere GX345 seat & foot rest all tore down. Wanting to sand it down and was wondering what grit of sandpaper you used? Love your little helper in the background. Reminds me of my grandson. Thanks.
Usually when I pick them up ,the next stop is to a nearest car wash while they are on the trailer yet and a couple bucks later and before spraying you must seal up the open engine orficies left open by the previous idiot or idiots.You' ll enjoy working on them and restoring them much more .I stopped working on those dirty ones from now on,it makes my life much easier working on that old abused neglected junk,, Hey get a gal and mix up and try the fiberglass rosin on the rusting decks after sanding and cleaning them up before finish painting ,,you ll only have to do it once and it last forevermore ,,it really flips and sells also if you advertise you doing so in your resell adds, as a much improved anti-rust treatment forever deck coating .You know as wet grass cuttings come to be very acidic laying on top of the steel decks after mowing,esp if the mower left uncovered and left out in the rain and never been blown off or cleaned underneath after using it ,,it burns the one coat paint factory cheap paint job right off the steel
Best to label items when you pull them off and what is wrong with them, it’s what I do and I rebuild them and put new labels ready
Try black shoes sole glue,it works the best and its very flexible and sticky
Electricians strippers have a crimping tool built in that works great on those connectors.
That tiny battery did more than a couple of starts. That was more like 6 or seven long tries. Say, removing that seat safety tells me all the electric power from the stator flows through the seat safety switch. Now would be the time to remove your new voltage regulator as you will soon need it.
28:09 If they served any purpose other than stopping dieseling (run on) after shut down you wouldn't be cleaning that carb. Where as if there were an inline valve that carb would be spotless. All these modern carbs can be a full jet richer across the board. Lower altitude and large displacement engines two jet sizes. Then nobody has to worry about dieseling on shut down because the combustion chamber is not hot enough.
Need to adjust the Valves , That,s is why it slow cranks funny on start up , new plug,s will help on missing ,clean mag on flywheel
I have yet to finish the video but it really sounds like it's only running on one cylinder.
great video kyle! 🔧⚙️💸
Thanks
I bought the same model however the voltage regulator was missing and so are the wires not sure where those wire should be coming from and connect into the voltage regulator that I plan on buying any help
Not sure
Bon travail abonnés de France
Pretty informative when it comes to mechanical information... The paint job and seat repair wasnt great, but there was still good info to be found in this video. The ridiculous amount of commercials in this video was the worst I have seen yet. Made me want to shut the video off a half dozen times. With that being said... This was pretty good overall.
Maybe the crank keyway ? I dont know, just check :)
keep it going your doing great
Thanks so much!
Bad weather coming soon get ready for the extreme cold 😊
Any idea on a replacment engine, i have the same exact model. it has a blown engine. B&S 24 Hp ELS725
anything with similar horse power. I'd also look for the same brand engine, and definitely the same size crank shaft.
Your lucky to fairly nice mowers and twin engines, most down here are the cheapest single cylinder engines possible now 😢😢😢
They might last 5 years if you keep them serviced and baby it 😢
Going to need a new starter before long....
Sir it’s probly the carb needs a little talc right
And I'm wondering why you didn't put a fuel shut off on in previous videos you said you like putting fuel shut off on all the lawn tractors you work on
I usually put a shut off on anything gravity fed engine. I don't always put a fuel shut off on fuel pump engines.
Best to put on every thing period
@@philliphall5198 I could see the benefit for shut off on this system if someone wanted to run the carb out of fuel for storage. But, I didn’t install one. It’ll be fine.
Is it worth fixing a 2005 Craftsman riding lawn mower with a bad cylinder
A bad cylinder? Sounds like a new engine would be in order. If it’s just a bad piston or a thrown rod, then probably yes.
I saved a 2004 Murray about 2 years ago. I swapped out the bad engine with a good engine. Going from a 12.5 horsepower to a 25 horsepower. Nothing like doubling the horsepower.
@@bertgrau3934 nice! Do you have a link to the video?
👍
Need to use exterior liquid nails
Yeah, that would be a much better glue. PL Premium polyurethane adhesive at Home Depot is very similar and has even better holding power.
You did great on the mechanics but your upholstery skills need some improvement hahaha I like your videos today is my first time seeing you. I subscribed to your channel today. I look forward to see more of your videos in the future.
Agreed! That seat repair wasn’t great
Intake orings leaking
Seems I’ve had to replace the fuel hose all the way to tank on every one of them, there rotted and cracked 😢😢😢
Why did you leave 4 separate comments?????
You didn't work on the drive belt....
That’s correct
I spoke the transmission manufacturer, and he said most of the time when people think it is a bad drive belt, they replace it an it works better, but what actually made it work better is that everyone is also cleaning off the accumulated debris that gets clogged in the external moving parts at the top of these hydrostatic plastic transmissions. This cleaning is the actual fix, and the drive belt rarely goes bad. There is often very poor access to the top of the transmission, so it is hard to keep clean on a regular basis.
They sell mowers like this one for $1000 in NZ
Double trouble Briggs, and thirsty for sure,not my favorite engine, Kohler command engines are the most dependable
Yeah, not my favorite either. I like the single cylinder command engines too
Lot of cold water and moving fast
Dangerous stuff
People really rigged them up and junk them out 😢😢😢
Man, that things looks Fact ry , VGG , LOL :)
Oooh what about those clouded headlight lenses- get some toothpaste a little on lense rub around and they become clear again!!
Maybe I’ll do that in the future. The headlight lens didn’t bother me. And the tractor sold really quick.
I have found that the Japanese bearings last 4 to one of the china plastic ball bearing junk,milled egg shaped. Ha ha ha!!
Good j😢
Double trouble briggs