Don't forget that most places that use these things have separate stations set-up right next to each other, for continuous subsequent operations. Grab yourself some Unitool/Unipunch or Strip-It C-Frame Die Holders. Tons of them on eBay all the time. There's dies for just about every conceivable operation, from punching holes, to flange forming, trimming, shearing and stripping. Any feature that can be punched, is a savings over the long run from being cut on the laser. Especially if you start taking orders in the hundreds or more.
Definitely take the tooling you have and cut it into sections so you can do some 3 sided bends. The punch holders should be moveable as they look that way. Always buy sectional tooling. Get some goosenecks and different height punches. My rule is is you can cut 1/4” your press brake should be able to bend it. Good luck and nice set up
We have several brakes at my work. We have a 6’ that bends up to 5/8”. We got rid of our 20’ break and got a new 10’ CNC for hi tensile. It’ll take the material and bend whichever in both directions.
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra I think the new 10’ cnc is a Roper Whitney. We got rid of a 500T 20’ Cincinnati brake. We also have a Pacific, an Aida, and a Franklin. There are several small ones too.
The difference between pulling a plug and throwing a disconnect is the risk of any arcing. If the motor is under load when you pull that plug, it could arc. This is why when you get beyond 3ish HP, plugs need to switch to pin and sleeve to be code compliant (NEC, at least). Plus those plugs are more difficult to grab than a switch.
Looks like a handy unit for small work. May want to think about getting an older one at auction for a bigger capacity if you're not using that capacity everyday. As in keeping the small one in addition to a big one. You wouldn't be the first guy to have a big machine set up to use beside the shop under a tarp. I mean if it makes money that way it works. Thanks for sharing
Rule of thumb for working out the right size of bottom die is, 8 times the thickness of material. Saying that I think you would have problems do any width of 10mm On that machine. I operate mine at work and we can do short pieces of 8mm stainless. I the brake is 1.2m wide
You, sir, are correct...up to 1" (25.4 mm) then it's 10X material thickness. I operate 3 different ones at work, and we can do 1/2" SS up to 12' long. But I have formed 1 1/2" AR400 plate 40" wide in a 10 1/2" die in our machine also.
You can use the front of your backguage fingers and if you have long thin material you can - the distance from the front of your fingers to the top of the fingers where it steps up from the front. Like a rest
Press Brakes are generally not designed for concentrated loads. General rule of thumb is full tonnage on no less than 60% of the bed length, so your short length 1/4 and 3/8" bends are potentially causing ram upset. Additionally, the upper tool holders have a max tonnage per each, usually +/- 17 tons, so a concentrated load on them is not doing the machine any favors, but at least they're easily replaceable. Ram upset, not so much.
What your saying makes sense. But most of the press brake work I see is small parts, like boxes, pans, enclosures that never use the full width and often just have finger punches setup with different stations along the brake for different ops
@@turbocobra Yes, small parts are done all the time, but it's done within the tonnage per inch rating of the machine (which is figured based on full tonnage over 60% of the bed), not with the max tonnage the machine has. Read up on ram upset in this link. www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/how-to-prevent-press-brake-ram-upset And this link. www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/the-4-pillars-of-press-brake-tonnage-limits Better still, read any article regarding press brakes on that site - there is a lot of good information that will help as you go along.
Yep, 40 tons definitely is for small sheet metal operations. I know 1/4” stainless is about 24 tons to bend 18”. Anything 1/4” or thicker needs about 160+ tons for a press to fully use it.
@@turbocobra 4 wires 2 are 220v the neutral and ground are the other 2. If you go from the neutral to either of the 220-volts wires you get 110-volts. No neutral only 220-volts and ground (Welders use that type of plug)
Using those residential plugs is a way to get it done. Drawback is wear. If you're unplugging alot they're not really made for that. Keep an eye on it. They can start to build heat as they wear. The looser it gets the more danger of disaster. If you unplug certain machines regularly, myself I would switch to the shop rated plugs when you don't feel good about those plugs anymore. Oven plugs are way cheaper, have some myself, but I only unplug 1-2 times a year on those.
Keep a spare pair of drawers at the shop, Its all fun and games untill you blow out your first tool. The top opening of your die should be a minimum of 4 x you material thickness and the narrower width you go the bigger that should be.
I've ran our Amada at work and watching him drop it manually at such a fast speed had me puckering. I don't know if he mentioned how many tons this machine is, but those overbent parts tell me he was pushing his luck there. Yikes.
@@turbocobra American style has a plain 1/2 x 5/8 tang. The upper punches on yours look to have the European style. They have like a hook on them. I am still pretty new but I think the die opening is suppose to be 8x thickness. I think that puts the die opening at 3" for 3/8 material.
just an 80 ton 8ft. its the biggest i can fit through my short rollup door. when i get the new space built out next door i will have a 16ft door so can get the bigger 200 ton 12ft one lol
Don't forget that most places that use these things have separate stations set-up right next to each other, for continuous subsequent operations. Grab yourself some Unitool/Unipunch or Strip-It C-Frame Die Holders. Tons of them on eBay all the time. There's dies for just about every conceivable operation, from punching holes, to flange forming, trimming, shearing and stripping. Any feature that can be punched, is a savings over the long run from being cut on the laser. Especially if you start taking orders in the hundreds or more.
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Definitely take the tooling you have and cut it into sections so you can do some 3 sided bends. The punch holders should be moveable as they look that way. Always buy sectional tooling. Get some goosenecks and different height punches. My rule is is you can cut 1/4” your press brake should be able to bend it. Good luck and nice set up
We have several brakes at my work. We have a 6’ that bends up to 5/8”. We got rid of our 20’ break and got a new 10’ CNC for hi tensile. It’ll take the material and bend whichever in both directions.
what brand is it? Accupress? Trumpf? Bystronic?
Ramsey Customs - turbocobra I think the new 10’ cnc is a Roper Whitney. We got rid of a 500T 20’ Cincinnati brake. We also have a Pacific, an Aida, and a Franklin. There are several small ones too.
The difference between pulling a plug and throwing a disconnect is the risk of any arcing. If the motor is under load when you pull that plug, it could arc. This is why when you get beyond 3ish HP, plugs need to switch to pin and sleeve to be code compliant (NEC, at least). Plus those plugs are more difficult to grab than a switch.
Very nice Gary! I like the size of this one. I know you will get it dialed in in no time!
Looks like a handy unit for small work. May want to think about getting an older one at auction for a bigger capacity if you're not using that capacity everyday. As in keeping the small one in addition to a big one. You wouldn't be the first guy to have a big machine set up to use beside the shop under a tarp. I mean if it makes money that way it works. Thanks for sharing
Rule of thumb for working out the right size of bottom die is, 8 times the thickness of material. Saying that I think you would have problems do any width of 10mm
On that machine. I operate mine at work and we can do short pieces of 8mm stainless. I the brake is 1.2m wide
You, sir, are correct...up to 1" (25.4 mm) then it's 10X material thickness. I operate 3 different ones at work, and we can do 1/2" SS up to 12' long. But I have formed 1 1/2" AR400 plate 40" wide in a 10 1/2" die in our machine also.
Nice new toy even though it will be just visiting. I'm sure that will make bending things a LOT easier. It's impressive that it could bend the 3/8ths.
You can use the front of your backguage fingers and if you have long thin material you can - the distance from the front of your fingers to the top of the fingers where it steps up from the front. Like a rest
good job on the setup, you will have it going strong in no time
Press Brakes are generally not designed for concentrated loads. General rule of thumb is full tonnage on no less than 60% of the bed length, so your short length 1/4 and 3/8" bends are potentially causing ram upset.
Additionally, the upper tool holders have a max tonnage per each, usually +/- 17 tons, so a concentrated load on them is not doing the machine any favors, but at least they're easily replaceable. Ram upset, not so much.
What your saying makes sense. But most of the press brake work I see is small parts, like boxes, pans, enclosures that never use the full width and often just have finger punches setup with different stations along the brake for different ops
@@turbocobra Yes, small parts are done all the time, but it's done within the tonnage per inch rating of the machine (which is figured based on full tonnage over 60% of the bed), not with the max tonnage the machine has.
Read up on ram upset in this link.
www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/how-to-prevent-press-brake-ram-upset
And this link.
www.thefabricator.com/thefabricator/article/bending/the-4-pillars-of-press-brake-tonnage-limits
Better still, read any article regarding press brakes on that site - there is a lot of good information that will help as you go along.
Yep, 40 tons definitely is for small sheet metal operations.
I know 1/4” stainless is about 24 tons to bend 18”.
Anything 1/4” or thicker needs about 160+ tons for a press to fully use it.
Depends on length of material. You can bent 1/2” if its 6x6 inches
@@AndreyNabutovsky well yes and no, it depends on the design and allowed tonnage per ft.
Too much and it creates a crown in the middle
really nice ! you're gonna need a bigger shop ! way too cool !
Those Plugs you use are stove/range plugs 50 amp 30 amp is a dryer plug.
gotcha, makes sense. So why 4 wires? instead of the normal 3 wires for those in residential ?
@@turbocobra residential is now 4 wire.
@@turbocobra 4 wire adds a neutral for anything in the device that requires 120v, like the controls/clock on a stove.
@@turbocobra 4 wires 2 are 220v the neutral and ground are the other 2. If you go from the neutral to either of the 220-volts wires you get 110-volts. No neutral only 220-volts and ground (Welders use that type of plug)
Using those residential plugs is a way to get it done. Drawback is wear. If you're unplugging alot they're not really made for that. Keep an eye on it. They can start to build heat as they wear. The looser it gets the more danger of disaster. If you unplug certain machines regularly, myself I would switch to the shop rated plugs when you don't feel good about those plugs anymore. Oven plugs are way cheaper, have some myself, but I only unplug 1-2 times a year on those.
Keep a spare pair of drawers at the shop, Its all fun and games untill you blow out your first tool. The top opening of your die should be a minimum of 4 x you material thickness and the narrower width you go the bigger that should be.
I've ran our Amada at work and watching him drop it manually at such a fast speed had me puckering. I don't know if he mentioned how many tons this machine is, but those overbent parts tell me he was pushing his luck there. Yikes.
@@superordinate 40 ton
Looks like a wonderful machine
its well built for sure
That sure beats a regular manual press brake.
Interesting machine.
Wow Gary that way cool
Pretty cool! I'm in the middle of building a 24" cnc press brake from scratch. Do they sell American style dies?
they have a huge catalog of dies available. not sure they are american style?
@@turbocobra American style has a plain 1/2 x 5/8 tang. The upper punches on yours look to have the European style. They have like a hook on them. I am still pretty new but I think the die opening is suppose to be 8x thickness. I think that puts the die opening at 3" for 3/8 material.
Not that it matters a lot but that traveler oil is known not to be very good quality stuff.
yea its cheap stuff from tractor supply. Its suppose to be changed at 2,000 hours, then every 6,000 after that
Gary,
How many ton unit are you replacing this one with?
just an 80 ton 8ft. its the biggest i can fit through my short rollup door. when i get the new space built out next door i will have a 16ft door so can get the bigger 200 ton 12ft one lol
@@turbocobra
What will the total cost be delivered?
Gary kickn A$$
需要我帮你联系到制造商吗?
Jealous! Nice
if I send you file could you bend it?Whats your email?
Ax.
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