You’re the first person to explain flux core properly without all the jargon! I thought I’d bought the wrong welder but as I weld outside the flux core is the best bet. Top man . Cheers
I can tell you I got the same welder and I do all my panels with it. I do you use the anti-spatter spray, it does help. One thing for sure I can honestly tell you you have to find the right wire you're comfortable with, I found that the Forney 30 gauge wire was the best for me. It really flows good you just got to be last on the trigger to make those little bitty Welds. Small welds less grinding. I really can't understand what everybody is bitching about with the flux core. You know at one time they did make a 23 gauge wire, don't know why they ever stopped!!! I do know it was quite a while ago though. Anyway thank you so much lakeside for opening people's eyes to the fact that it can be done. Actually a lot of people are doing it.
A lot of people do just fine with flux core. My friend likes Lincoln wire - not sure if you tried that before. Flux core is all this guy (Luis) uses and he do very well with it - www.youtube.com/@firstgenerationgarage2803 Thanks for watching and the comment Joseph :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah I've tried Lincoln not too bad but I prefer the Forney 30 it just seems to work better for me. I guess in the end that's all that counts right! Thanks again for the video.
Honestly I can’t say thank you enough I have the same welding machine I had sent you a message the other day and asked what gage metal you used you told me and it was a huge help I figured out my problem I had to thin of metal I had it set on max and wire to slow this video was Awsome and after getting all my mistakes corrected it worked beautiful thank you 1000 time over truly I was a mess 😊
That made my day - I love to hear stories like that. You're very welcome - always feel free to ask any question - doesn't matter what video - I'll get you an answer. Thanks for the comment and support :)
@@LakesideAutobody I’m watching videos right now on quarter panel rust repair To me your videos are how I would do it and extremely easy to understand I mean your to the point there’s not 10 other things your trying to show I feel like I’m rite there and your showing me again thank you it was such a huge help I mean it 😊 I’m over in Massachusetts near cape cod just so you know where your students are coming from 😊
@@LakesideAutobody was that 0.6mm or 0.8 wire.i think thaf flux is more difficult to weld thin metal than regular gas welder.it must be clear surface.i bought it to weld automotive.thank so so much
Thanks. I have the same welder and works great on thicker pieces but easy to blow-thru holes on sheet metal. I also found Min and 5 speed best for thin steel. I replaced the passenger floor pan in my 1965 Dart, but make the "mistake" of trying to butt it flush. That took a lot of fitting and grinding and still couldn't get it perfectly flush everywhere, then many blow-thrus, even holding a copper spoon on the backside where I could. I should have lapped the two as you do here, which makes fitting easier and less likely to blow thru. Inaccessible areas I first painted with a "weld-thru primer", using Rustoleum high-zinc galvanized metal spray paint from Ace. If bare steel, it will quickly rust.
Sometimes you are forced to butt weld but most of the work in a body shop is lapped. A new car has over 4000 weld and not one is a butt weld - remember that when you hear all the hoopla about butt welding :)
I read your response about lap welds on new cars and It floored me. I never thought about factory lap welds before, I've always butt welded my patches because I was told that was the best way to do it. I may have wasted a few years of my life fitting patch panels on old cars when lap welding would have sufficed. It's going to be hard to break the habit but I'm going to have to give it a whirl. My sons Malibu has a spot that needs repaired and lap welding it would turn an all day adventure in aggravation into a couple hour cake walk.
A lot of rust repair videos on this channel are 5 years old now and still just fine. Here's a follow up video on many repairs done on the channel - I'll do another one soon on this truck (still just fine driving year round) - th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html
I tried this about a decade ago. The first thing I did was weld the tip of the welder shut*. I am almost ready to try again. Thankyou for sharing your process.
Thank you so much, I’m only 18 and have never messed with body panels, I am going to try and stretch two Jeep YJ tubs into a CJ8 tub. I want it to look as natural as possible and this should help immensely.
This will help me a lot. I'm planning on cutting out and welding in a whole new roof panel to my white crystallite roof Starwagon, just to halt any roof rust hard in its tracks (as well as rust bust and patch weld the rest of the body as needed). Then I'm probably going to paint strip and repaint the exterior in a tan rhinoliner. Apparently Mitsubishi had an issue with their primer under the white paint of these vehicles that would actively promote rust when exposed to sunlight. Mine was garage kept most of its life which prevented a lot of that, but at 30 years old, it's starting to show signs of rust under the paint.
Nice video. Having done my own cab corners and outer rocker panels I found using .030 flux core wire to be ok for this kind of task. These lower priced machines don't take .025 wire. For the DIY folks I found using a shot of compressed air after each tack helps keep the metal from warping. Takes longer but well worth it. Any way you do body work it's a tedious job for sure.
I've used the same welder on the body patches and it makes for a good patch. your spot method is excellent for avoiding burn throughs. I never tried the sure form blades for rough shaping. Great idea. I like a fiberglass (water proof) filler in areas where can't stop water from the other side. Good video.
Thanks Papa - you can use the sure forms for both types of filler. It will make you job a lot easier when sanding that fiberglass filler. That stuff gets hard as a brick.
It probably sounds stupid but when my wife would want to go to somewhere exotic for vacation I'd love to spend a week learning your craft you really are awesome man
I've been following your videos for a few years now and have to give you a long overdue thank you from me. You have really helped me up my rust restoration game. My 2000 F150 4x4 still looks great thanks to your tips.
This is great! I bought this exact welder for a restoration project I am working on (I am a newbie at welding) but then heard all the comments that you can't use flux core for sheet metal. This video gave me hope that it can be done.
Im using mine to weld autobody sheet right now. Works just fine, grinds down nicely. You just have to watch the heat because it'll warp the sheet easily and you'll end up with a low spot where you welded. It can definitely be done.
I like going back to these demos when I’m doing a similar repair on my nova …. I love doing body filler and learned on my own back in 83 …. And I figured it out pretty Quik , including the grater etc . … I’ve never seen anyone but you or myself spooky it so well and efficiently ! … keep making vids and I’d love to see another one of a rust repair or patch panel with the flux core , which I believe has advantages over regular mig welder
Thank you for taking the time to make and share this how to video.... I thought it was going to be a lot more involved to do it. I'm sure I'll mess it up a few times before I get it right so I'll practice on junk pieces before I do my wife's beloved 2002 monster S10 truck. The Wisconsin winters salty roads have eaten a lot of her lower cab panels away... Thanks again for taking the time making this video.. Be blessed my friend in Jesus name... BBE..
You're welcome. There's no doubt in my mind if you work at it, you'll be successful. Do one panel at a time if needed but keep working on that panel till it's right. Looking at the whole vehicle can be discouraging if it's real bad. Ask ?s and practice and you will find success. God bless you too - have a great week :)
I have the back end of an inner sill to repair (rocker panel in US). But I have a donor car so will be cutting out a piece and working out the best way to insert it. Thanks for the tip about the overlap as I expect the outer panel will need some work.
Hi Jerry great video the only welder that I ever have used is the Harbor Freight flux core actually the other machine that I believe is 90 amps I don't use Harbor Freight wire I go and buy the Lincoln wire and I changed my ground clamp to a heavy duty one and believe me it does pretty good I guess the more you practice the better you get thanks for the video my friend
Thanks a lot for that input - I've heard or other folks using brand name wire in this machine. Good idea with that ground clamp. You're right - practice does help - have a good weekend :)
This is the best auto Body channel on TH-cam! I want to replace rocker panels and cab corners on my f 150 and was looking into the flux 125 for that. Just waiting for it to go back on sale!
Thank you, this video is extremely important to me. I’ve got an old Campbell Hausfeld flux core welder that I thought couldn’t be used for body work, but this changed my mind. Thank you very much! Maybe it will work.
I actually have the same welder too and I use the fornay wire it worked really good for mine with minimal buildup on the welds. Don't know if you did the conversion on yours I haven't as far as AC to DC got a comment on my video from a guy that has done his and it works well as far as he says and I've seen other videos as well with the conversion, I think I will keep mine as it is for now as it works just fine. I'm not a body guy I'm a carpenter by trade but I try the best I can and it seems to be working, just helping my friends out whenever I can. Thanks for the content it really helped
That's awesome and goes to show that you can use a flux core welder for body work. People keep saying you need gas otherwise the welds are messy etc. Disclaimer I have never used flux core but have been told the reason most people fall over is because they use the same techniques and try to weld exactly as they would with MIG. Apparently for the best results you need to be slightly further away from the piece and maybe change the angle of approach.
Great point! Yes you have to practice a bit and try different things. Although I have always used a Miller MIG (gas) for body work - I don't mind using this little guy - very light, handy, and works fine :)
Mostly because a regular MIG welder with argon gas attachment costs more, cumbersome to get a bottle and get it filled. Great for little projects. Yes it splatters more, but you can grind that off. Sure, if your a professional with daily welding, you need the gas one as the flux core wire is very expensive compared to the standard mig wire.
Flux core is definitely a different technique, and you have to reverse the polarity. I have one of those Italian MIG's from 40 years ago and the HF Titanium 125 FC. You can't push with flux. You always have to pull so you're not running over your slag. You need more stick out because you need the flux inside the wire to melt before it gets to the panel. 1/2-5/8 is okay. Spatter is not usually a big issue. You have to clear off the flux and smoke anyhow, so run a worn out flap wheel over it. Then wire brush, or spot blast like Jerry shows. I prefer my MIG because the gas flow cools and keeps me from burning through + it *is* cleaner, but either works, and flux is definitely the WTG if you have to be outside.
I have noticed that you seem to use a pretty basic set of tools for almost all of your jobs. Could you share a list of the tools, supplies and equipment that could get most body work done. For instance, be specific on compressor, sand paper and grits, blocks, hammers, spray guns, primer, fillers, air tools, sanding discs, welder, etc. It almost seems like you do most everything with like 4 tools? I know it's not that simple but it sure would be 'real nice' as you say to have a breakdown of your tools, equipment and supplies. It would be a HUGE help if you have time to share! Thanks for all of the great instruction, your style is fantastic, keep the videos coming!
Great idea. I would love to make video of that. My dad was a body man and he used to have stories of some guy that would come in with a 5 gallon bucket of tools and do everything he needed to do out of that bucket. I'll put together a video on that - thanks for your input - Jerry
Nice to see some welds looking a little like mine. Just got my fj73 into the garage ready to start on the floor pan. I'm a total novice so vids like this are awesome, thanks.
You're welcome. Know that in an actual body shop guys aren't welding like a union bridge builders. They're proficient at what needs to be done looks doesn't really matter - function does.
I got one of these welders thank you for the video I got a 94 f150 and a 96 f150 that needs patch panels welded in on the back quarter panels been wondering if this welder was capable of it I know I can run some really good welds with it that are very strong this welder don't get enough credit in my opinion once you master it there's really nothing it won't weld if you can get past the little bbs it leaves afterwards your good once grinded down can't really tell i found Lincoln .030 wire works really good in it and if you take the little cone thing off the end that really helps a certified welder told me you don't need that cone thing it's only for shielding gas
I quit running anything "abrasive cutting disc" related without the guard after a Pal (lives right next door) who used work for me (he went self employed) ran one that broke - the piece of disc hit him right smack in the middle of his lips, broke in 4 front teeth, tore his jaw & lips apart like you would not believe - he looked like an extra out of a horror movie for the next few months. Dental bills were crazy.. He's 6'6" & built like a tank - an ickle little cutting disc bust him up like a hot knife through butter.. I made a mental note to leave the guard on the grinders.. Let's not.... Before he did that, I never really paid discs much heed. I do now. I run grinding discs & flap wheels sans-guard - but the grinder with the guard gets used for cutting. Cutting discs are fragile - but not as fragile as your face. :-)
What's way worse is a wire cup brush with the grinder lock button on! Fml that was a close eye opener so to speak! Never again with the trigger lock! Wow
I have the same welder and welding patch panels 18 gauge i am set at 2 for wire speed and max letting the wire out about an inch ive gotten pretty good- not seeing a need to drop a grand on a new welder
There is a guy Luis at First Generation Garage on YT that welds everything with flux core and is awesome at it - he's going to do a few videos on the methods he uses I think :)
Great work! Seems like you always get more Spatter from the Flux Core wore...Agree?? You sure help us boost our confidence for doing these repairs. Thank You!! 👍👍
Yes, but it comes off real easy. Wire wheel on a drill takes most of it off and you have to grind the area anyway before filler - that takes the rest of it off. I give it a quick sand blast just to make sure the filler sticks real well too. Thanks for the support BTW and you're welcome - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Here in Australia BOC supplies anti spatter sprat. I use it a lot on general light gauge work , when using flux core. Not tried it on body panels, but it is water soluble, and makes clean up so much easier.
Problems with flux core is a lot of splatter and there are more chances of burning holes and warping in body metal I went to argon mix a big difference and hardly any splatter to clean up but flux core does the job but gas does a nicer one .
I thought this would need a "joggle" tool to send a rebate (rabbet) into the old panel. But you've shown that's not necessary. Thank you. I do think it will need a searching searching anti corrosion oil/wax squirting into the overlapped edge behind. but it should be good.
After you take off the top gummy layer of filler with the Stanley surform - it's a lot easier to sand. Use a brand new, 36-40 grit piece of sand paper too - cuts real fast.
@@adventures223 There should be a steel sales place near your house. I go to Alro Steel and get A1008 CR Sheet - www.alro.com/divsteel/metals_gridpt.aspx?gp=0055 4x8 sheet is around 100 bucks - A 4x8 sheet of wood will soon surpass it! :)
Thanks UPK - I'll stop over to your channel to see how the box chevy is coming along - that's going to be one sweet car when your done. Have a great weekend - Jerry
Man TYTYTYTYTY same welder I have this helped so much you wouldnt believe . Great info on videos is helping me so much. 64 o;d dog here learning new tricks
Very nice. From my experience, You should replace that junk clamp on that welder and get the heavier all brass clamp at HF. That one change made a world of difference in my welds.
I have one of these welders and i love it. Is it acceptable to weld with the nozzle off? Seems like i can judge my spot welds better this way, but i don't want to damage my welder.
To me it's best to spread it over bare metal as that is how it was done in every shop I worked at. Use a low speed on your sander/grinder and use sharp 36-40 grit fiber resin discs. Filler sticks great to clean, freshly ground metal. In the end it's up to you though and what you think is going to work best for your application. I've never had filler crack, fall out etc. putting it over bare metal though. Thanks for the support BTW.
@@LakesideAutobody agreed . Fillet has got a bad name from people putting it over rust unsanded paint over dirt grease oil and then leaving the rest of the metal to rust . Also all repairs need oil on the back of the repairs soon as paint is cured
What is your opinion on the automotive spray guns? I've used the gravity feed spray guns before as well as the one that you use which is a siphon style spray gun. To me it always seems like the spray gun style that you use lays the paint and primer out so much better and I'm not sure why.
To me really - they all spray nicely if they are clean and you have mixed the paint/primer right. I have my favorite siphon feed ones and my favorite gravity ones. For siphon I like the Binks 7 or Campbell Hausfeld's copy of it. For gravity believe it or not, I like the purple gun from Harbor Freight or the Cambell H's DH580000AV both are cheap, work fine and always available.
Thanks, here's one on a compressor. Keep in mind that this is the minimum size I think you can get away with. th-cam.com/video/53miAObOdVY/w-d-xo.html Here's one on guns: th-cam.com/video/PnmJ1ywmvsU/w-d-xo.html or for primer: th-cam.com/video/THc0v-1TMug/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody great..i haven't seen anyone break the "how to buy a diy paint setup"...i will check it out..also i just subscribed...ur videos a are academic level.....should be teaching at auto trade school...thxs..
OLd school. the best way. In the early 70s I did all my welding on sheetmetal using " hammer welding" use a 3/16th rod and a gas torch ,, knock it in , then a wet rag, whew. In the last of the 80s I bought a MIG. EASY PEEEZY,,,..
Do I just disconnect the battery only when welding or do I disconnect everything Also I hear grinding the tacks down is better because if you do it right it will look like it was never touched
Just disconnect the negative batt cable when welding. No one in a body shop grinds the welds completely flat - that's internet, TV, magazine stuff. Don't waste time, materials or good welds doing so. Weld, lightly grind the welds, sand blast or wire brush the seam, tap down the seam, fill. You want something between the welded seam and the finish and filler is great for that. A butt welded seam right under the finish will begin to show eventually if driven in salt water and the elements. Watch this video for more info - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html
My dad used lead and converted to plastic filler late 60's through the 70's. He showed me how to do it but I found filler to be a lot easier and in all honesty lasts just as long if applied correctly. That would make for a good video topic though. Thanks for you input and glad you enjoyed the video :)
Thanks for putting this video together. It looked like you were applying a powder coating at about minute 5:12. I wasn’t sure what you were doing here, would you please explain?
That was a small sand blaster. I use the media from tractor supply - $9/bag Here's the blaster - www.amazon.com/SpeedBlaster-Gravity-Feed-Media-Blaster/dp/B000IHUQ5E/ref=asc_df_B000IHUQ5E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=
I’m not trying to insult your work with my question I’m genuinely curious. Why not butt the panels together and weld or but a panel behind and then we’ll the panels Edge to edge. Wouldn’t 5hat make for a thinner layer of body puddy and make it easier to clean up for the finished product. Any information would be helpful thanks
Please check back with in the next few weeks. I'm working on a video that thoroughly explains why this method is used in body shops in Michigan. Here's some information on the reasoning behind a combination of butt and lap: Lap welding is how most, if not all high volume body shops in Michigan repair rust on late model vehicles with 22 gauge (.030”) or thinner sheet metal (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair on today's thinner metal and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for rigid areas that can’t be tapped down) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up (gap or no gap), weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html * th-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/w-d-xo.html * Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper thin welds & surrounding metal. Your goal is to have one method that works on everything. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: th-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/w-d-xo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). See these videos for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html ***** www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o37dX- Let me know if this long winded explanation helped out :) Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you very much I have a 1997 f150 that I have to do some rust repair on that’s why I was curious. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. please keep up the informative videos. .
Hi, great video and all the other videos are fantastic.. You definitely have another subscription from me.. What wire are you using as I have my very similar welder on the same settings and I am not creating a puddle at all! I am new to this today
Thanks so much - glad they are helpful. Feel free to ask ?s. I answer 1-2 times/day. The wire came with the welder and is .030". I did have to play with the settings and the distance (work/gun) and angle. Keep at it - you'll find out what works for you. Thanks for the sub :)
I have the same machine,I don’t know how to use properly,and I’d like to know why you change the settings to minimum temp instead of maximum temperature,thanks
For sheet metal like 20 or 22 gauge you'll want to use a lower voltage or minimum temp so that you don't "blow" through or burn through the thin metal and make a hole :)
I have a much better gas/gasless mig welder sort of mid range that cost me €300 about same in $ and i find that flux core is almost as good as with co2 Argon mix. Really amazed at how good the welds on 22 gauge metal came. I set it at the lowest setting which is 10 amps. I will probably be able to flux core weld even 24 gauge as i get better with this machine
I’d be out there 10 times as long and it would look 1/10th as good. Do you put anything on the back side of your patch panels to keep them from rusting from inside?
Not usually but I absolutely make sure the panel can drain. For example: lean a piece of bare sheet metal up against a chain link fence and it'll be there for a darn long time before it rusts away because it can drain and dry. Watch this video for some good info on that: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
I see this is 9 months ago but......I just had cab corners done professionally and they use something called cavity wax. The shop highly recommends it whenever you can.
You can do that if you want. I really just focused on the seam for video purposes. You can finish or fashion your patch however you think it will last the longest. Good observations MM :)
Thanks for the sub. Glad you like the channel. Here's a great vid to check out the longevity of the repair found on the channel - th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html You're welcome BTW - enjoy the weekend :)
That's a myth. I'll do a follow up video on this truck as I have to do a quarter panel on it. This fender, after driving it for a year or two in the winter, will look just fine. All outdoor buildings, ships, bridges are done with flux core and they are painted so... not sure if that says anything but... something to think about.
Another great video. My question is would a rasp do the same thing the grater does to remove material quickly? N how's the quality of the finish after the grater?
I don't think the rasp would work as it would probably clog up but.... give it a try - you never know. The finish is fine because you sand it as you would normally sand filler after you get it close with the grater or (Stanley surform). Have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I was thinking the same thing about the rasp clogging. N I meant is the surface relatively smooth n easy to sand after the grater? Which I suppose would depend on how fine or coarse the grater is. Enjoy your weekend. Rumor has it we might warm up a degree or 2 for the weekend lol
Yeah it's smooth cause you don't get that close with the grater. You have to know when to stop with anything, with the grater you stop in time to hit it with 80, and then 180, and then primer. It will be smooth
I love your channel so much! It has been incredibly helpful with my project. I am welding some patches into the bed of my pickup. I can see little bits of light from some angles coming between my spot welds. Will the bondo seal these holes sufficiently? Are these tiny holes acceptable or should the welds completely seal the patch?
You don't have to weld solid. If you are concerned about sealing use fiberglass reinforced filler for you first application of filler - it's water proof unlike regular filler. I use regular filler and have no issues though - remember to tap the seam down before filling :)
If you are talking about the bend in the metal - I have a nice old fashioned large jaw vise that I clamped it in (wheel well side) then just sort of bent it by hand a bit manipulating it to that shape. Glad you noticed that :)
Excellent video and exactly what I needed to know. Your video was straight forward with easy to follow instructions. The patch might not be 100% perfect but then again it didn't take you a whole day to do it and it looks good to me. I think it's time I get one of these cheap welding units and try this myself of my classic car.
Really enjoying the content, thanks for your work. Do you ever use All Metal instead of bondo ot duraglass? Doing my rusty MN cabs&rockers soon and thinking I'll go allmetal
I have not but I really don't have a problem with rust coming back. If you make sure your panels can drain and dry - your good. I squirt some oil in the doors, tail gate, hood, rockers, etc. It settles at the bottom and starts to creep around and coat everything preventing future rust - here's a video on preventing rust: th-cam.com/video/NXAo5IfMtPM/w-d-xo.html
Damn I wish I would have found these videos before I spent $1200 , on doors, fenders, and a hood for my '73 c10.........on the bright side.....at least I have a bunch of old body panels I can practice on now
Filler sticks great to clean, freshly ground metal. Use a slow speed on your grinder/sander w/ 36-40 grit fiber resin disc. I get the idea of products that claim it will "provide protection" but it's not necessary. I've never seen it done in any shop I've worked at. In the end though it's up to you - what you think will work the best for your situation. I'll do a video on that - I've had a lot of folks ask that. Thanks, Jerry
No problem. Strictly butt welding and metal finishing is more of an internet/TV/magazine thing. Most Michigan body shops used a combination of lap and butt - even panel adhesive or fiberglass. See these videos as to why: th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html **** th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html For longevity see this video: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
@@mikep95133 You're welcome. The body shops in Michigan use a combination of welds. Mostly lap welds in open stretches that can be tapped down (seams). On edges that can't be tapped down and you don't want them looking thick or altered you would butt weld. The shops that I worked at anyway - and they had very good reputations for doing quality work. A lot of shops use glues or adhesives for certain rust repairs. I'll include all the different types of repair methods on this channel so you can choose which will work best for you and each of your repairs.
La verdad que aqui esta muy dificil. Tanto por la pandemia, como la economia. Veo muy sombrío el futuro de mi pais lastimosamente. Este es un pais muy complicado; mucha corrupción, la vida es muy cara, no podes progresar.
Pero bueno, hay que seguir luchando con fe y esperanza. Yo aprendiendo este hermoso oficio de la chapa y pintura, con la intención de hacer mi propio emprendimiento en futuro cercano, y poder independizarme laboralmente.
Aprendi mucho de sus videos, y valoro mucho su gran gesto de compartir sus conocimientos con el prójimo. Estoy comprando herramientas dentro de lo que puedo, aca es muy caro todo.
Seria muy interezante que en algun momento, pudiera usted crear un grupo de whatsapp, para poder charlar, hacer consultas, etc. Le mando saludos cordiales.
What level of smoothness or flatness does the metal have after the grinding and tapping down before filling. Its hard for me to get a sense of what can be covered well by the filler.
Awesome question and I will be posting a video on that exact topic w/in the next couple weeks. For large areas like this it needs to be roughed up good with anything under 80 grit - used sharp paper or fiber resin disks - filler adhesion is a mechanical bond and need to grab onto or lock into the scratches. Don't use a DA with fine paper :)
You’re the first person to explain flux core properly without all the jargon! I thought I’d bought the wrong welder but as I weld outside the flux core is the best bet. Top man . Cheers
Plus you can use it outside. Hard to use MIG (gas) outside as the wind blows the gas shield away from the weld :)
what did he explain? all i heard him say was put wire speed on 5 and the powere to minimum. did i miss something big?
I can tell you I got the same welder and I do all my panels with it. I do you use the anti-spatter spray, it does help. One thing for sure I can honestly tell you you have to find the right wire you're comfortable with, I found that the Forney 30 gauge wire was the best for me. It really flows good you just got to be last on the trigger to make those little bitty Welds. Small welds less grinding. I really can't understand what everybody is bitching about with the flux core. You know at one time they did make a 23 gauge wire, don't know why they ever stopped!!! I do know it was quite a while ago though. Anyway thank you so much lakeside for opening people's eyes to the fact that it can be done. Actually a lot of people are doing it.
A lot of people do just fine with flux core. My friend likes Lincoln wire - not sure if you tried that before. Flux core is all this guy (Luis) uses and he do very well with it - www.youtube.com/@firstgenerationgarage2803 Thanks for watching and the comment Joseph :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah I've tried Lincoln not too bad but I prefer the Forney 30 it just seems to work better for me. I guess in the end that's all that counts right! Thanks again for the video.
Honestly I can’t say thank you enough I have the same welding machine I had sent you a message the other day and asked what gage metal you used you told me and it was a huge help I figured out my problem I had to thin of metal I had it set on max and wire to slow this video was Awsome and after getting all my mistakes corrected it worked beautiful thank you 1000 time over truly I was a mess 😊
That made my day - I love to hear stories like that.
You're very welcome - always feel free to ask any question - doesn't matter what video - I'll get you an answer. Thanks for the comment and support :)
@@LakesideAutobody I’m watching videos right now on quarter panel rust repair To me your videos are how I would do it and extremely easy to understand I mean your to the point there’s not 10 other things your trying to show I feel like I’m rite there and your showing me again thank you it was such a huge help I mean it 😊 I’m over in Massachusetts near cape cod just so you know where your students are coming from 😊
So what guage metal was it?
@@1windozesuk 18 gauge
@@LakesideAutobody was that 0.6mm or 0.8 wire.i think thaf flux is more difficult to weld thin metal than regular gas welder.it must be clear surface.i bought it to weld automotive.thank so so much
Thanks. I have the same welder and works great on thicker pieces but easy to blow-thru holes on sheet metal. I also found Min and 5 speed best for thin steel. I replaced the passenger floor pan in my 1965 Dart, but make the "mistake" of trying to butt it flush. That took a lot of fitting and grinding and still couldn't get it perfectly flush everywhere, then many blow-thrus, even holding a copper spoon on the backside where I could. I should have lapped the two as you do here, which makes fitting easier and less likely to blow thru. Inaccessible areas I first painted with a "weld-thru primer", using Rustoleum high-zinc galvanized metal spray paint from Ace. If bare steel, it will quickly rust.
Sometimes you are forced to butt weld but most of the work in a body shop is lapped. A new car has over 4000 weld and not one is a butt weld - remember that when you hear all the hoopla about butt welding :)
I read your response about lap welds on new cars and It floored me. I never thought about factory lap welds before, I've always butt welded my patches because I was told that was the best way to do it. I may have wasted a few years of my life fitting patch panels on old cars when lap welding would have sufficed. It's going to be hard to break the habit but I'm going to have to give it a whirl. My sons Malibu has a spot that needs repaired and lap welding it would turn an all day adventure in aggravation into a couple hour cake walk.
A lot of rust repair videos on this channel are 5 years old now and still just fine. Here's a follow up video on many repairs done on the channel - I'll do another one soon on this truck (still just fine driving year round) - th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html
I tried this about a decade ago. The first thing I did was weld the tip of the welder shut*. I am almost ready to try again. Thankyou for sharing your process.
👍😊
Thank you so much, I’m only 18 and have never messed with body panels, I am going to try and stretch two Jeep YJ tubs into a CJ8 tub. I want it to look as natural as possible and this should help immensely.
Nice 😊 - Feel free to ask any questions you have - I get to them 1-2 times a day :)
This will help me a lot. I'm planning on cutting out and welding in a whole new roof panel to my white crystallite roof Starwagon, just to halt any roof rust hard in its tracks (as well as rust bust and patch weld the rest of the body as needed). Then I'm probably going to paint strip and repaint the exterior in a tan rhinoliner. Apparently Mitsubishi had an issue with their primer under the white paint of these vehicles that would actively promote rust when exposed to sunlight. Mine was garage kept most of its life which prevented a lot of that, but at 30 years old, it's starting to show signs of rust under the paint.
Nice video. Having done my own cab corners and outer rocker panels I found using .030 flux core wire to be ok for this kind of task. These lower priced machines don't take .025 wire. For the DIY folks I found using a shot of compressed air after each tack helps keep the metal from warping. Takes longer but well worth it. Any way you do body work it's a tedious job for sure.
Thank you
A dab with a damp cotton rag does the same. Even better a squirt of water based rust converter.
Where is. 025 flux core wire available to buy?
Great video for building up an amateur's confidence level. Repair looks fantastic. Thanks a lot.
Thanks and thanks for watching :)
Glad I found this. I have a 170 and are going to be doing the rockers on my daughters PT Cruiser
I've used the same welder on the body patches and it makes for a good patch. your spot method is excellent for avoiding burn throughs. I never tried the sure form blades for rough shaping. Great idea. I like a fiberglass (water proof) filler in areas where can't stop water from the other side. Good video.
Thanks Papa - you can use the sure forms for both types of filler. It will make you job a lot easier when sanding that fiberglass filler. That stuff gets hard as a brick.
Correct: seal welded area with fiberglass premix, eg: Bondo-Glass. Bondo has talc fillers which can/will hold water
It probably sounds stupid but when my wife would want to go to somewhere exotic for vacation I'd love to spend a week learning your craft you really are awesome man
Thanks a lot my friend - sorry about the late reply :)
I've been following your videos for a few years now and have to give you a long overdue thank you from me. You have really helped me up my rust restoration game. My 2000 F150 4x4 still looks great thanks to your tips.
That makes my day Cris - thanks for letting me know. Glad to hear your project was a success 👍✌️😊
This is great! I bought this exact welder for a restoration project I am working on (I am a newbie at welding) but then heard all the comments that you can't use flux core for sheet metal. This video gave me hope that it can be done.
Glad I could help!
Im using mine to weld autobody sheet right now. Works just fine, grinds down nicely. You just have to watch the heat because it'll warp the sheet easily and you'll end up with a low spot where you welded. It can definitely be done.
I like going back to these demos when I’m doing a similar repair on my nova …. I love doing body filler and learned on my own back in 83 …. And I figured it out pretty Quik , including the grater etc . … I’ve never seen anyone but you or myself spooky it so well and efficiently ! … keep making vids and I’d love to see another one of a rust repair or patch panel with the flux core , which I believe has advantages over regular mig welder
Getting body filler straight can be difficult but like you said the grater and sharp paper makes it a lot easier :)
I like your channel. You are a Real DIY’er. This is pretty much the way I work. A man with basic tools can accomplish a lot if he just goes at it
Thanks - that's good to hear. Have a great end of the week :)
Thank you for taking the time to make and share this how to video.... I thought it was going to be a lot more involved to do it. I'm sure I'll mess it up a few times before I get it right so I'll practice on junk pieces before I do my wife's beloved 2002 monster S10 truck. The Wisconsin winters salty roads have eaten a lot of her lower cab panels away... Thanks again for taking the time making this video.. Be blessed my friend in Jesus name... BBE..
You're welcome. There's no doubt in my mind if you work at it, you'll be successful. Do one panel at a time if needed but keep working on that panel till it's right. Looking at the whole vehicle can be discouraging if it's real bad. Ask ?s and practice and you will find success. God bless you too - have a great week :)
Welding those holes closed was a sight to see.
Didn't even know that was possible with flux core.
I thought you'd melt right through!
Thanks - glad you liked the video - you have a cool channel name. It has a lot of potential. Folks love science and learning really :)
I have the back end of an inner sill to repair (rocker panel in US). But I have a donor car so will be cutting out a piece and working out the best way to insert it. Thanks for the tip about the overlap as I expect the outer panel will need some work.
You're welcome. Let me know how it goes :)
Hi Jerry great video the only welder that I ever have used is the Harbor Freight flux core actually the other machine that I believe is 90 amps I don't use Harbor Freight wire I go and buy the Lincoln wire and I changed my ground clamp to a heavy duty one and believe me it does pretty good I guess the more you practice the better you get thanks for the video my friend
Thanks a lot for that input - I've heard or other folks using brand name wire in this machine. Good idea with that ground clamp. You're right - practice does help - have a good weekend :)
This is the best auto
Body channel on TH-cam! I want to replace rocker panels and cab corners on my f 150 and was looking into the flux 125 for that. Just waiting for it to go back on sale!
Yep - $99 bucks :)
Always the best no nonsense demonstration how to do it right !! 👍🏻
Thanks Paul - I appreciate the support :)
Thank you, this video is extremely important to me. I’ve got an old Campbell Hausfeld flux core welder that I thought couldn’t be used for body work, but this changed my mind. Thank you very much! Maybe it will work.
I hope it does - practice just getting a spot on a plain clean piece of auto sheet metal - then go from there. Let me know how it goes :)
Really good. I must watch it a few times & I'm sure I'll have a few questions...Thanks.. Bill
Thanks for the awesome body work tutorials! I do a lot fabrication for my own channel and love seeing and learning from the experts!
You're welcome - thanks for watching WCF - have a good weekend :)
I actually have the same welder too and I use the fornay wire it worked really good for mine with minimal buildup on the welds. Don't know if you did the conversion on yours I haven't as far as AC to DC got a comment on my video from a guy that has done his and it works well as far as he says and I've seen other videos as well with the conversion, I think I will keep mine as it is for now as it works just fine. I'm not a body guy I'm a carpenter by trade but I try the best I can and it seems to be working, just helping my friends out whenever I can. Thanks for the content it really helped
Glad you like the content Joseph. That's cool of you to help your friends out - enjoy the rest of the weekend 💯😊
That's awesome and goes to show that you can use a flux core welder for body work. People keep saying you need gas otherwise the welds are messy etc. Disclaimer I have never used flux core but have been told the reason most people fall over is because they use the same techniques and try to weld exactly as they would with MIG. Apparently for the best results you need to be slightly further away from the piece and maybe change the angle of approach.
i have never used another welder than flux core mig.
Great point! Yes you have to practice a bit and try different things. Although I have always used a Miller MIG (gas) for body work - I don't mind using this little guy - very light, handy, and works fine :)
Mostly because a regular MIG welder with argon gas attachment costs more, cumbersome to get a bottle and get it filled. Great for little projects. Yes it splatters more, but you can grind that off. Sure, if your a professional with daily welding, you need the gas one as the flux core wire is very expensive compared to the standard mig wire.
Yes many dont even change polarity and the complain how bad flux core is
Flux core is definitely a different technique, and you have to reverse the polarity.
I have one of those Italian MIG's from 40 years ago and the HF Titanium 125 FC.
You can't push with flux. You always have to pull so you're not running over your slag.
You need more stick out because you need the flux inside the wire to melt before it gets to the panel. 1/2-5/8 is okay.
Spatter is not usually a big issue. You have to clear off the flux and smoke anyhow, so run a worn out flap wheel over it.
Then wire brush, or spot blast like Jerry shows.
I prefer my MIG because the gas flow cools and keeps me from burning through + it *is* cleaner, but either works, and flux is definitely the WTG if you have to be outside.
I'm new to Welding this is great!!!!
Feel free to ask any ?s as you go :
I have noticed that you seem to use a pretty basic set of tools for almost all of your jobs. Could you share a list of the tools, supplies and equipment that could get most body work done. For instance, be specific on compressor, sand paper and grits, blocks, hammers, spray guns, primer, fillers, air tools, sanding discs, welder, etc. It almost seems like you do most everything with like 4 tools? I know it's not that simple but it sure would be 'real nice' as you say to have a breakdown of your tools, equipment and supplies. It would be a HUGE help if you have time to share! Thanks for all of the great instruction, your style is fantastic, keep the videos coming!
Great idea. I would love to make video of that. My dad was a body man and he used to have stories of some guy that would come in with a 5 gallon bucket of tools and do everything he needed to do out of that bucket. I'll put together a video on that - thanks for your input - Jerry
Nice to see some welds looking a little like mine. Just got my fj73 into the garage ready to start on the floor pan. I'm a total novice so vids like this are awesome, thanks.
You're welcome. Know that in an actual body shop guys aren't welding like a union bridge builders. They're proficient at what needs to be done looks doesn't really matter - function does.
Thanks for telling what speed and heat you use got the same welder and kept burning through on my mustang quarters
You're welcome - low heat and short bursts will prevent blowing through. Let me know how those quarters turn out :)
I got one of these welders thank you for the video I got a 94 f150 and a 96 f150 that needs patch panels welded in on the back quarter panels been wondering if this welder was capable of it I know I can run some really good welds with it that are very strong this welder don't get enough credit in my opinion once you master it there's really nothing it won't weld if you can get past the little bbs it leaves afterwards your good once grinded down can't really tell i found Lincoln .030 wire works really good in it and if you take the little cone thing off the end that really helps a certified welder told me you don't need that cone thing it's only for shielding gas
My friend uses the Lincoln wire and say it works real well too. Thanks for the comment and the information - good stuff :)
That is some dark magic. Well done
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it :)
you need more adujustleveles of the volt here, than High or lowe , i have weld much carbody with fluxcore
thanks for all the videos. keep them coning i just got a 52 chevy delux.
I will. Awesome to hear. That's a good looking car - had to look it up first though 😊
I quit running anything "abrasive cutting disc" related without the guard after a Pal (lives right next door) who used work for me (he went self employed) ran one that broke - the piece of disc hit him right smack in the middle of his lips, broke in 4 front teeth, tore his jaw & lips apart like you would not believe - he looked like an extra out of a horror movie for the next few months. Dental bills were crazy.. He's 6'6" & built like a tank - an ickle little cutting disc bust him up like a hot knife through butter.. I made a mental note to leave the guard on the grinders.. Let's not....
Before he did that, I never really paid discs much heed. I do now. I run grinding discs & flap wheels sans-guard - but the grinder with the guard gets used for cutting. Cutting discs are fragile - but not as fragile as your face. :-)
Your so right,,with some people safety's not a priority,,disc without a guard,,lethal,,,
What's way worse is a wire cup brush with the grinder lock button on! Fml that was a close eye opener so to speak! Never again with the trigger lock! Wow
I have the same welder and welding patch panels 18 gauge i am set at 2 for wire speed and max letting the wire out about an inch ive gotten pretty good- not seeing a need to drop a grand on a new welder
There is a guy Luis at First Generation Garage on YT that welds everything with flux core and is awesome at it - he's going to do a few videos on the methods he uses I think :)
Great work! Seems like you always get more Spatter from the Flux Core wore...Agree?? You sure help us boost our confidence for doing these repairs. Thank You!! 👍👍
Yes, but it comes off real easy. Wire wheel on a drill takes most of it off and you have to grind the area anyway before filler - that takes the rest of it off. I give it a quick sand blast just to make sure the filler sticks real well too. Thanks for the support BTW and you're welcome - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Here in Australia BOC supplies anti spatter sprat. I use it a lot on general light gauge work , when using flux core. Not tried it on body panels, but it is water soluble, and makes clean up so much easier.
ABSOLUTELY AMAZING WORK, THANK U SOOOO MUCH 4 TELLING THE TRUTH AND SHOWING EXACTLY STEP BY STEP HOW THIS IS DONE JOB WELL DONE.
Thanks a lot. Here's a follow up on this repair too if interested - th-cam.com/video/t1WclT_GMvk/w-d-xo.html
That looks really good! Thankyou for making these videos as it shows me you can do quality work with cheaper tools. Keep it up!
You're welcome - glad you like the videos - have a good weekend :)
Problems with flux core is a lot of splatter and there are more chances of burning holes and warping in body metal I went to argon mix a big difference and hardly any splatter to clean up but flux core does the job but gas does a nicer one .
The beginning of this videos makes a good case for me getting a new plasma cutter lol. Cutoff wheels suck!
I thought this would need a "joggle" tool to send a rebate (rabbet) into the old panel. But you've shown that's not necessary. Thank you. I do think it will need a searching searching anti corrosion oil/wax squirting into the overlapped edge behind. but it should be good.
Here's one option for cheap future rust prevention - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for these videos. It is good to see other professionals using these types of tools.
You're very welcome - thanks for the support and positive comments :)
@@LakesideAutobody Absolutely!
You make the sanding part seam so easy :D
After you take off the top gummy layer of filler with the Stanley surform - it's a lot easier to sand. Use a brand new, 36-40 grit piece of sand paper too - cuts real fast.
That was incredible!
Thanks Sir G - have a good week :)
Been enjoying watching your videos to get to work on my K10 that needs quarters. Nice stuff
Thanks M Shifter - good luck on your K10. Have a good weekend :)
A master at work your videos have taught me alot
Glad to hear it Chris - thanks for the support :)
Excellent work.
Nothing wrong with that repair.
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
It still looks like new - it's a local guy :)
Thank you Jerry . Happy holidays. I can’t thank you enough for the knowledge that you’ve helped me with. Stay healthy amigo .Stl Mo 😊
You're welcome my friend - Happy Holidays to you too 🍗🥧😊
Dude you are a body work master thank you for these A1 videos you work and teaching is the best you are a skilled master
Thanks - that made my day. I appreciate it - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody hi Jerry wheres the best place to get 20 gauge sheet metal
@@adventures223 There should be a steel sales place near your house. I go to Alro Steel and get A1008 CR Sheet - www.alro.com/divsteel/metals_gridpt.aspx?gp=0055 4x8 sheet is around 100 bucks - A 4x8 sheet of wood will soon surpass it! :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you very much again your videos are the best i am learning so so fast
@@adventures223 You're welcome - keep me updated on your projects :)
Great vid Jerry...it's always good seeing the work you do!
Thanks UPK - I'll stop over to your channel to see how the box chevy is coming along - that's going to be one sweet car when your done. Have a great weekend - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry have a great weekend!
Awesome! I just bought the same welder today hoping I can use it for patch panels on my car. Now I know. Thanks a million!
You're welcome - good luck to you. Ask ?s
Man TYTYTYTYTY same welder I have this helped so much you wouldnt believe . Great info on videos is helping me so much. 64 o;d dog here learning new tricks
Glad to hear it helped you out - thanks for your support my friend :)
Really good information I needed to see, I'm fixing to do some patching on my truck, thanks!👍
You're welcome Richard :)
Just what I needed for clarification.
Very nice.
From my experience, You should replace that junk clamp on that welder and get the heavier all brass clamp at HF. That one change made a world of difference in my welds.
Thanks, I'll give it a try. Good idea :)
I have one of these welders and i love it.
Is it acceptable to weld with the nozzle off?
Seems like i can judge my spot welds better this way, but i don't want to damage my welder.
Yes - that's fine.
Thank you for this video! I was on the fence about doing auto body with a Harbor Freight welder.
It's going to work but it'll take some practice. Some auto body guys will only use flux core.
Question so is it better to spread filler over bare metal vs primed metal ? Another awesome video !
To me it's best to spread it over bare metal as that is how it was done in every shop I worked at. Use a low speed on your sander/grinder and use sharp 36-40 grit fiber resin discs. Filler sticks great to clean, freshly ground metal. In the end it's up to you though and what you think is going to work best for your application. I've never had filler crack, fall out etc. putting it over bare metal though. Thanks for the support BTW.
@@LakesideAutobody agreed . Fillet has got a bad name from people putting it over rust unsanded paint over dirt grease oil and then leaving the rest of the metal to rust . Also all repairs need oil on the back of the repairs soon as paint is cured
very nice thanks
FYl
Thanks
I like your channel and Fitzee Fabrication
Thanks Mark glad you like them both. Fitzee's Fabrication is an interesting channel for sure :)
My goodness, I guess I’ll be doing great body panel repairs like a champ 1st attempt after watching this video.. 😉
Thanks for the comment Mike - Happy Easter to you and your family :)
@@LakesideAutobody Same to you my friend!
What is your opinion on the automotive spray guns? I've used the gravity feed spray guns before as well as the one that you use which is a siphon style spray gun. To me it always seems like the spray gun style that you use lays the paint and primer out so much better and I'm not sure why.
To me really - they all spray nicely if they are clean and you have mixed the paint/primer right. I have my favorite siphon feed ones and my favorite gravity ones. For siphon I like the Binks 7 or Campbell Hausfeld's copy of it. For gravity believe it or not, I like the purple gun from Harbor Freight or the Cambell H's DH580000AV both are cheap, work fine and always available.
Question??? Do you have a video on a simple Paint Gun and comperssor set up for autobody painting for diy ??? Great videos.
Thanks, here's one on a compressor. Keep in mind that this is the minimum size I think you can get away with. th-cam.com/video/53miAObOdVY/w-d-xo.html Here's one on guns: th-cam.com/video/PnmJ1ywmvsU/w-d-xo.html or for primer:
th-cam.com/video/THc0v-1TMug/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody great..i haven't seen anyone break the "how to buy a diy paint setup"...i will check it out..also i just subscribed...ur videos a are academic level.....should be teaching at auto trade school...thxs..
Great stuff Jerry, as always a very helpful video.👍🏻
Thanks 👍 - Glad it was helpful.
OLd school. the best way. In the early 70s I did all my welding on sheetmetal using " hammer welding" use a 3/16th rod and a gas torch ,, knock it in , then a wet rag, whew. In the last of the 80s I bought a MIG. EASY
PEEEZY,,,..
Thanks for the story from the 70's and 80's David - good times. You're right - the MIG really made it easier :)
Do I just disconnect the battery only when welding or do I disconnect everything Also I hear grinding the tacks down is better because if you do it right it will look like it was never touched
Just disconnect the negative batt cable when welding. No one in a body shop grinds the welds completely flat - that's internet, TV, magazine stuff. Don't waste time, materials or good welds doing so. Weld, lightly grind the welds, sand blast or wire brush the seam, tap down the seam, fill. You want something between the welded seam and the finish and filler is great for that. A butt welded seam right under the finish will begin to show eventually if driven in salt water and the elements. Watch this video for more info - th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html
Your technique with the flux cored welder has been very helpful.
One question I have is do you ever find the need to use lead filling?
My dad used lead and converted to plastic filler late 60's through the 70's. He showed me how to do it but I found filler to be a lot easier and in all honesty lasts just as long if applied correctly. That would make for a good video topic though. Thanks for you input and glad you enjoyed the video :)
Thanks for putting this video together. It looked like you were applying a powder coating at about minute 5:12. I wasn’t sure what you were doing here, would you please explain?
That was a small sand blaster. I use the media from tractor supply - $9/bag Here's the blaster - www.amazon.com/SpeedBlaster-Gravity-Feed-Media-Blaster/dp/B000IHUQ5E/ref=asc_df_B000IHUQ5E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=
Thanks for taking the time to explain and even go so far as to provide the details in your response, that’s pretty awesome. Thank you!!!
@@groothebarbarian You're welcome Steven. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Did the same thing couple weekends ago, yours looks way better. You made it look way too easy I blew through a couple times
That happens all the time - no big deal. Make sure you cut out ALL the rust - any thin metal left, your asking for trouble - have a good weekend :)
Good to see you can get such nice results with fluxcore. 👍
Thank - glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)
Great video, none of this pretentious stuff that you see on the Tube set in a ‘workshop’ that cost a million dollars.
Thanks Rob - I appreciate that. Have a good week my friend :)
I’m not trying to insult your work with my question I’m genuinely curious. Why not butt the panels together and weld or but a panel behind and then we’ll the panels Edge to edge. Wouldn’t 5hat make for a thinner layer of body puddy and make it easier to clean up for the finished product. Any information would be helpful thanks
Please check back with in the next few weeks. I'm working on a video that thoroughly explains why this method is used in body shops in Michigan. Here's some information on the reasoning behind a combination of butt and lap:
Lap welding is how most, if not all high volume body shops in Michigan repair rust on late model vehicles with 22 gauge (.030”) or thinner sheet metal (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair on today's thinner metal and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for rigid areas that can’t be tapped down) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up (gap or no gap), weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html *
th-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/w-d-xo.html *
Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper thin welds & surrounding metal. Your goal is to have one method that works on everything. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: th-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/w-d-xo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). See these videos for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html *****
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o37dX-
Let me know if this long winded explanation helped out :) Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thank you very much I have a 1997 f150 that I have to do some rust repair on that’s why I was curious. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. please keep up the informative videos. .
Thanks - glad I could help - let me know how your project goes. Ask ?s too - I answer 1-2 times a day :)
Hi, great video and all the other videos are fantastic.. You definitely have another subscription from me..
What wire are you using as I have my very similar welder on the same settings and I am not creating a puddle at all! I am new to this today
Thanks so much - glad they are helpful. Feel free to ask ?s. I answer 1-2 times/day. The wire came with the welder and is .030". I did have to play with the settings and the distance (work/gun) and angle. Keep at it - you'll find out what works for you. Thanks for the sub :)
I have the same machine,I don’t know how to use properly,and I’d like to know why you change the settings to minimum temp instead of maximum temperature,thanks
For sheet metal like 20 or 22 gauge you'll want to use a lower voltage or minimum temp so that you don't "blow" through or burn through the thin metal and make a hole :)
I have a much better gas/gasless mig welder sort of mid range that cost me €300 about same in $ and i find that flux core is almost as good as with co2 Argon mix. Really amazed at how good the welds on 22 gauge metal came. I set it at the lowest setting which is 10 amps. I will probably be able to flux core weld even 24 gauge as i get better with this machine
I think you will too - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thankyou and a good weekend to you too ☺
I’d be out there 10 times as long and it would look 1/10th as good. Do you put anything on the back side of your patch panels to keep them from rusting from inside?
Not usually but I absolutely make sure the panel can drain. For example: lean a piece of bare sheet metal up against a chain link fence and it'll be there for a darn long time before it rusts away because it can drain and dry. Watch this video for some good info on that: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
I see this is 9 months ago but......I just had cab corners done professionally and they use something called cavity wax. The shop highly recommends it whenever you can.
@@lukeofearth1036 thanks!
Great repair my friend, how do you get the curve on the repair peice
I bent it in a vice - It's actually a straight bend but good enough. The filler will do the rest. Have a great weekend :)
This is phenomenal
Thanks, have a great weekend :)
Good job brother, thumbs up
Glad you liked it BDTP :) Cool name.
Very nice job.
Thanks for the support Chris - have a good weekend :)
great video, but why didn't you weld the corners of your patch panel at the bends or weld the front solid where the grille fits ?
You can do that if you want. I really just focused on the seam for video purposes. You can finish or fashion your patch however you think it will last the longest. Good observations MM :)
Just joined your channel your awesome ty so much
Thanks for the sub. Glad you like the channel. Here's a great vid to check out the longevity of the repair found on the channel - th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html You're welcome BTW - enjoy the weekend :)
I was told that the flux core wire is not for painting because the gas leaches into the metal eventually ruining the paint. Is this a myth?
That's a myth. I'll do a follow up video on this truck as I have to do a quarter panel on it. This fender, after driving it for a year or two in the winter, will look just fine. All outdoor buildings, ships, bridges are done with flux core and they are painted so... not sure if that says anything but... something to think about.
Another great video. My question is would a rasp do the same thing the grater does to remove material quickly? N how's the quality of the finish after the grater?
I don't think the rasp would work as it would probably clog up but.... give it a try - you never know. The finish is fine because you sand it as you would normally sand filler after you get it close with the grater or (Stanley surform). Have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I was thinking the same thing about the rasp clogging. N I meant is the surface relatively smooth n easy to sand after the grater? Which I suppose would depend on how fine or coarse the grater is. Enjoy your weekend. Rumor has it we might warm up a degree or 2 for the weekend lol
Yeah it's smooth cause you don't get that close with the grater. You have to know when to stop with anything, with the grater you stop in time to hit it with 80, and then 180, and then primer. It will be smooth
@@jonathanyates5198 You're right - gotta leave yourself some to hit with the sand paper.
I love your channel so much! It has been incredibly helpful with my project. I am welding some patches into the bed of my pickup. I can see little bits of light from some angles coming between my spot welds. Will the bondo seal these holes sufficiently? Are these tiny holes acceptable or should the welds completely seal the patch?
You don't have to weld solid. If you are concerned about sealing use fiberglass reinforced filler for you first application of filler - it's water proof unlike regular filler. I use regular filler and have no issues though - remember to tap the seam down before filling :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you very much. You do great work. Really appreciate your expertise. Keep up the great content!
@@andrewsimpson3194 I will Andrew. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching :)
I like the way you put the wheel opening body line in the patch before welding it on......how did you go about doing that?
Masking tape and let your block hang over the line
If you are talking about the bend in the metal - I have a nice old fashioned large jaw vise that I clamped it in (wheel well side) then just sort of bent it by hand a bit manipulating it to that shape. Glad you noticed that :)
Excellent video and exactly what I needed to know. Your video was straight forward with easy to follow instructions. The patch might not be 100% perfect but then again it didn't take you a whole day to do it and it looks good to me. I think it's time I get one of these cheap welding units and try this myself of my classic car.
Thanks Brian - it lasts a long time too - see this video for more on that: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
Really enjoying the content, thanks for your work. Do you ever use All Metal instead of bondo ot duraglass? Doing my rusty MN cabs&rockers soon and thinking I'll go allmetal
I have not but I really don't have a problem with rust coming back. If you make sure your panels can drain and dry - your good. I squirt some oil in the doors, tail gate, hood, rockers, etc. It settles at the bottom and starts to creep around and coat everything preventing future rust - here's a video on preventing rust: th-cam.com/video/NXAo5IfMtPM/w-d-xo.html
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Damn I wish I would have found these videos before I spent $1200 , on doors, fenders, and a hood for my '73 c10.........on the bright side.....at least I have a bunch of old body panels I can practice on now
Love those C10s - like the GMCs too :)
should you prime them before adding the filler or does the filler provide the protection you need from corrosion of the new metal?
Filler sticks great to clean, freshly ground metal. Use a slow speed on your grinder/sander w/ 36-40 grit fiber resin disc. I get the idea of products that claim it will "provide protection" but it's not
necessary. I've never seen it done in any shop I've worked at. In the end though it's up to you - what you think will work the best for your situation. I'll do a video on that - I've had a lot of folks ask that. Thanks, Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody appreciate the reply. Hope it didn't come off as rude, was a legit curiosity question for me. Thanks, love the page!
Hi Jerry. As a complete rookie, do you mind if I ask why you didn't butt weld this repair ?
No problem. Strictly butt welding and metal finishing is more of an internet/TV/magazine thing. Most Michigan body shops used a combination of lap and butt - even panel adhesive or fiberglass. See these videos as to why: th-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/w-d-xo.html **** th-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/w-d-xo.html For longevity see this video: th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for the clear perspective !!!
@@mikep95133 You're welcome. The body shops in Michigan use a combination of welds. Mostly lap welds in open stretches that can be tapped down (seams). On edges that can't be tapped down and you don't want them looking thick or altered you would butt weld. The shops that I worked at anyway - and they had very good reputations for doing quality work. A lot of shops use glues or adhesives for certain rust repairs. I'll include all the different types of repair methods on this channel so you can choose which will work best for you and each of your repairs.
Very cool.
Hola, saludos cordiales desde Argentina.
Lo felicito por su trabajo!.gracias por compartir, me ayudan mucho y aprendo.
Hola, saludos desde Michigan. Gracias y de nada. Me alegro que ayuden. Como va la vida en Argentina?
La verdad que aqui esta muy dificil.
Tanto por la pandemia, como la economia. Veo muy sombrío el futuro de mi pais lastimosamente.
Este es un pais muy complicado; mucha corrupción, la vida es muy cara, no podes progresar.
Pero bueno, hay que seguir luchando con fe y esperanza.
Yo aprendiendo este hermoso oficio de la chapa y pintura, con la intención de hacer mi propio emprendimiento en futuro cercano, y poder independizarme laboralmente.
Aprendi mucho de sus videos, y valoro mucho su gran gesto de compartir sus conocimientos con el prójimo.
Estoy comprando herramientas dentro de lo que puedo, aca es muy caro todo.
Seria muy interezante que en algun momento, pudiera usted crear un grupo de whatsapp, para poder charlar, hacer consultas, etc.
Le mando saludos cordiales.
What level of smoothness or flatness does the metal have after the grinding and tapping down before filling. Its hard for me to get a sense of what can be covered well by the filler.
Awesome question and I will be posting a video on that exact topic w/in the next couple weeks. For large areas like this it needs to be roughed up good with anything under 80 grit - used sharp paper or fiber resin disks - filler adhesion is a mechanical bond and need to grab onto or lock into the scratches. Don't use a DA with fine paper :)
nice work.thank you for sharing
Thank you - have a good weekend :)
thanks