A few things that may be helpful: - the wire is mild steel, it will not harden. Trimming it works because when you cut it with a set of dykes or most other cutters you end up with a point which concentrates the electric potential making the arc jump much more easily than from the rounded glob you get at the end of the wire. The reason that the weld bead appears to harden is that modern automotive pannels are mostly made of "high strength steel," which will hardne somewhat and that is what you're heating/welding with the wire - welds shrink as they cool, when you put your first tack in it shrinks pulling that end together and the other end apart. Try putting your first tack in the middle and you should avoid that. - thinner wire puts less heat in the weld. Flux core is available in .030" which would make this easier. - aluminum or copper backing plates make it easier if you hold them against the weld. Even better if you can clamp to them. - lowering your gun angle decreases the heat you put in the weld and some welders do much better at low power settings than others. Once tacked, you skip around like you did on the second weld, but with the smaller wire, lower gun angle, backing the weld... you should be able to get away with running 1/2"-1" or so beads instead of tacks. That will prevent the gaps that you had and still control warp.
I'm going to attempt a repair on a separated 60 Chev. step-side tailgate. I like the idea of using .030 flux core wire. Thanks for the suggestion Mark!
@@ggazzara1115flux core works … best tip I got was thinnner the metal , more stick out …. You can stitch by barely striking and it will fuse without blowing holes ….. and it puts hardly any heat in the metal
here in my country, almost every small shop just using MMA/stick to weld everything, even 0,8mm steel plate, or 0,6mm round/hollow bar.. they usually using 6013 with 2.0 mm, and practically tack-weld everything too.. it'll be provide enough penetration since it runs at higher amps, but with some good handling, we can control the heat distribution too.. for welding thin plate, I usually start tack from the centre, and then tack at both end.. then tack it again at half distance between, half distance, half distance, until the distance between every tack just got approximately an inch.. brush every tack from any slag then continue to tack again to close the gap between every inch distance.. but keep the distance between your work, I usually skipped two-three gap when closing tack, and repeat it again after finishing a row.. for some work that doesn't need any plate to fully welded, some worker just leave those one inch distances tack with putty-work.. still, we must consider that labour cost in my country was very cheap.. most small shop worker just got 10-12 usd per day here lol.. so that's why this methods only exist in third world countries.. otherwise, we should use other time-effective methods.. anyway, you have a very good videos in your channel sir.. just subscribed #I'm sorry english wasn't my first language
Agreed the opposite tacks end to end do work well, add a bit of compressed air immediately after the tack and this helps against warping. More time consuming but if its worth welding like a car body panel its worth taking the extra step. Also I keep the wire waste at a minimum by not breaking off after each tack, keep a fine metal file on near by and scratch the tip of the wire on the file which opens up the tip again for the next tack. This trick has saved me a bunch of wire. I do the same when I'm stick welding. I'm not a pro. Just a regular Joe.
Very helpful, the internet is full of people saying you can't weld sheet metal with fcaw or stick and then also helpful people who show you how to do it
If possible, depends on the situation, you can clamp aluminum blocks on both sides of the weld leaving enough room for the weld torch then weld all the way from one end to the next. Let the affected area and heat sinks cool then unclamp the sinks and the warpage should be minimal or non existent. I realize this is not always possible but when it is it will save a lot of hassle.
Just wanted to say thanks for the effort 👌. I usually don't respond, but I wanted to let you know that it is helpful, especially for us amateurs, every little bit counts !!!
I was able to do 26ga sheet metal with my Titanium 125. It was incredibly tedious and forced me to turn my amps all the way down, but it worked for my purposes.
With flux core i haad to weld a thin panel on a vw beetle. Placed a soaking wet rag behind the panel to act as heat sink to prevent burn through. 🔥 tshhh
Its not hard once you start to figure it out! Just go low and slow and dont try to rush it by trying to weld across. Panels take a lot of time and a lot of tack welds.
Just do 1/4" at a time and move around to minimize warpage. The easiest way to stack dimes is one at a time. Pulse makes things stupid easy. I was stick welding 1/4 panels 40 years ago.
A piece of scrap copper, I use 3/4” copper flattened with one end left like a handle as a backer if I can. That helps dissipate the heat . Works great as long as you can get at the back.
Did some patch panels with my cheap flux core, with results that were not great, but I did it. But now I have more rusty projects, so I ordered a small mig unit. Should make life a bit easier...
Gas welders are much better for sheetmetal because of the thinner wire. If I was trying to do a profesional job, I would use gas. But for a hobby welder flux core will get the job done
For comparison it might be worth having a look at what “Bondobilly’ (might be ‘Bondo Billy’ on TH-cam) has to say about flux core welding car body panels. Similar stitching technique but 1” stick out and really hot welds.
Its more expensive and less convenient than a little flux core box. There are places where thats the best thing to use but in the majority of situations a cheapy welder works better and easier to use.
Yes, that could work but you could avoid all of that by not welding for extended periods of time on sheet metal. The preffered way would be to just go around with tack welds until its fully welded in.
if you can afford the table. also if you can weld flat on the table and not weld your piece to the expensive table. it also wont work if your panel is curved and your piece has minimal contact surface with the table.
I'm a bit lost here, so it seemed as if both ways were a fail if I understand correctly? The 1st was warped and 2nd didn't penetrate correct? Thank you for your time
Hello Again NightWrencher!!! Love and blessings from Michigan. Thanks again for your tutorial and tips. It means a lot to us beginners. I'am in the process of choosing a machine. Thinking of a dual setup that can do Mig fluxcore or (gas) and Tig for aluminum welding. Is that a good choice? Thanks
There are a lot of multi process machines out there. Usually the tig welding attachments are sold seperate so it gets expensive really quick. I would get a basic simple mig machine and start with flux, then move on to gas welding. You can get really nice results with gas welding 👍
As you progress with the weld bead, use hammer and dolly to flatten it out, as you go, or if you try straighten it at the end you'll have a lot harder time trying to straighten it.
quick question, i cant remember the specifics, but i thought i read somewhere that some wire (or certain situations maybe?) you cannot weld over your previous weld. is there truth behind that? can you explain? thanks
@@zacharygalliher609 Zach - I am a beginner and have been wondering on the point you made. It would seem slag would be a contaminant on top of the metal and interfere with good conductivity, good arc and weld. I have been thinking that as I tack along a sheet metal seam it is best to continuously wire off the slag to shiny metal. Is that the proper way?
Sheet metal I try to go as low of heat as possible with the slowest wire speed that it'll take. Each machine is different and sheet metal is tricky but to avoid warpage and to avoid making big welds, slow it down and take it easy. Spot weld in circles quickly also helps
@@NightWrencher thank you so much, l have posted some short videos on my channel - it was terrible to weld flux core on thin metal as I still have no idea on settings, if you may have a look and give me some advice, it’d be really appreciated🥹 it’s very confusing to adjust whether voltage or wire speed.
Hello and thank you for the video. Great explanation throughout. Question though, regarding the second method... "You've got to pick your poison" you said, @ 9:15 you can clearly see the crevice between the two sheets on the back side, won't this be a perfect spot for moisture to hide thus starting a premature failure... in other words, on a body panel this welding technique will fail in a short time, will it not ?
Yes and no, if you cant reach the back of the panel, it doesnt matter what technique you use, it will eventually rust over because it will stay exposed on the back side. If you can reach the back of the panel, you can quickly sand down the back and apply body filler to paint right over it for a sealed finish.
Hi nice video. I am a welding learner and english learner. English is not my mother tongue and i was able to understand 90% of what you said. Where is your accent from ? Thanks dude
I do that sometimes, even tapping it a little works too. But for sheet metal, I'll either keep tacking while its still red, or break off the tip. The weld strikes easier and you're in and out faster.
@@NightWrencheriv never tried that bc i learned to tap/scratch the rod before there was mig welders but im gona try it i could use a good habit. Thanks mate
I. Been welder on a truck cab that was choped and the person had just taken weld holden tighter I got a harbor freight welder cheap on I can't figure it out on low or hi heat keep maken it worse on welder it burned bigger holes haven a heck of a time
Is your polarity set correctly? do you have it set to tip negative? As in your tip is negative and your clamp is positive? I made the mistake of assuming that tip would be positive and my first welds were like that until a buddy educated me.
If he's using a harbor freight flux core welder it's actually probably running in AC. Don't ask me why but that's how they sell em... a little bit of diy mod work, adding a bridge rectifier, capacitor bank, and possibly a choke, can actually turn a nearly un-usable piece of junk into a pretty sweet little flux core machine. That's what I did, you can look up instructions for the modifications here on TH-cam. I 100% suggest you do it. I absolutely love using mine now.
@@jaytodd5809flux core has flux in the center of the wire mig is solid wire...no flux and needs a gas for shielding. So no its not the same. And with mig you can weld thinner metal.
Hello! I just use denim or leather jackets like dickies or levis. A welding apron can also be used. Stay away from anything made of nylon, polyester or any other plastics, they will melt.
Sorry to be a bloke govna, dinnit mean ta get ya knackered. Its my fault innit? This might make you chuffed, I'll switch it to "about to stroll on over this area and..."
If you can’t weld a straight beat in one pass on 24-20 gauge you shouldn’t be doing video educating others. Tacking a beat is not a strong bond on the metal. Unless you wire brush each tac before putting another. That would be dumb. But that would assure the weld fuse together better. You can check out my uncle at weld tips and tricks channel on TH-cam. You might learn something and do a video.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the best things I learned from welding sheet metal like this is patience. You can't rush it. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching another one! I appreciate it 👍
A few things that may be helpful:
- the wire is mild steel, it will not harden. Trimming it works because when you cut it with a set of dykes or most other cutters you end up with a point which concentrates the electric potential making the arc jump much more easily than from the rounded glob you get at the end of the wire. The reason that the weld bead appears to harden is that modern automotive pannels are mostly made of "high strength steel," which will hardne somewhat and that is what you're heating/welding with the wire
- welds shrink as they cool, when you put your first tack in it shrinks pulling that end together and the other end apart. Try putting your first tack in the middle and you should avoid that.
- thinner wire puts less heat in the weld. Flux core is available in .030" which would make this easier.
- aluminum or copper backing plates make it easier if you hold them against the weld. Even better if you can clamp to them.
- lowering your gun angle decreases the heat you put in the weld and some welders do much better at low power settings than others. Once tacked, you skip around like you did on the second weld, but with the smaller wire, lower gun angle, backing the weld... you should be able to get away with running 1/2"-1" or so beads instead of tacks. That will prevent the gaps that you had and still control warp.
I'm going to attempt a repair on a separated 60 Chev. step-side tailgate. I like the idea of using .030 flux core wire. Thanks for the suggestion Mark!
Insightful comments thank you! I learned a few tips from your remarks and the video. You guys should be instructors add a technical school
@@ggazzara1115flux core works … best tip I got was thinnner the metal , more stick out …. You can stitch by barely striking and it will fuse without blowing holes ….. and it puts hardly any heat in the metal
here in my country, almost every small shop just using MMA/stick to weld everything, even 0,8mm steel plate, or 0,6mm round/hollow bar.. they usually using 6013 with 2.0 mm, and practically tack-weld everything too.. it'll be provide enough penetration since it runs at higher amps, but with some good handling, we can control the heat distribution too..
for welding thin plate, I usually start tack from the centre, and then tack at both end.. then tack it again at half distance between, half distance, half distance, until the distance between every tack just got approximately an inch.. brush every tack from any slag then continue to tack again to close the gap between every inch distance.. but keep the distance between your work, I usually skipped two-three gap when closing tack, and repeat it again after finishing a row.. for some work that doesn't need any plate to fully welded, some worker just leave those one inch distances tack with putty-work..
still, we must consider that labour cost in my country was very cheap.. most small shop worker just got 10-12 usd per day here lol.. so that's why this methods only exist in third world countries.. otherwise, we should use other time-effective methods..
anyway, you have a very good videos in your channel sir.. just subscribed
#I'm sorry english wasn't my first language
Agreed the opposite tacks end to end do work well, add a bit of compressed air immediately after the tack and this helps against warping. More time consuming but if its worth welding like a car body panel its worth taking the extra step. Also I keep the wire waste at a minimum by not breaking off after each tack, keep a fine metal file on near by and scratch the tip of the wire on the file which opens up the tip again for the next tack. This trick has saved me a bunch of wire. I do the same when I'm stick welding. I'm not a pro. Just a regular Joe.
Makes sense!
Just came across your channel. Seriously- thanks for the tips. Brand new to welding, your videos are the most helpful I’ve seen. Appreciate your time.
No problem! I have more videos to come!
Very helpful, the internet is full of people saying you can't weld sheet metal with fcaw or stick and then also helpful people who show you how to do it
If possible, depends on the situation, you can clamp aluminum blocks on both sides of the weld leaving enough room for the weld torch then weld all the way from one end to the next. Let the affected area and heat sinks cool then unclamp the sinks and the warpage should be minimal or non existent. I realize this is not always possible but when it is it will save a lot of hassle.
Very interesting! I hadnt throught of that!
Just wanted to say thanks for the effort 👌. I usually don't respond, but I wanted to let you know that it is helpful, especially for us amateurs, every little bit counts !!!
Thank you! I do have more videos on welding for beginners in a playlist here on the channel so feel free to check it out if you need more help!
73-87 and the truck 9th
Awesome explanation, pure pro here, thanks!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
That anti spatter spay is amazing!!!
Liquid gold 👌
I was able to do 26ga sheet metal with my Titanium 125. It was incredibly tedious and forced me to turn my amps all the way down, but it worked for my purposes.
Its really difficult, especially for newer guys
I was taught to do a single continuous weld between the tack welds... this makes much more sense!!!
Depends on the situation but stich welding warps the panels less for sure 👍
With flux core i haad to weld a thin panel on a vw beetle. Placed a soaking wet rag behind the panel to act as heat sink to prevent burn through. 🔥 tshhh
I'll have to try that!
Hahahaha I’m about to do the same
Thank You! This is the EXACT video I needed!
Thank you! Hope it helps!
Brilliant video thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
Great video it's a big help because I want to start trying to weld sheet metal with flux core
Its not hard once you start to figure it out! Just go low and slow and dont try to rush it by trying to weld across. Panels take a lot of time and a lot of tack welds.
@@NightWrencher thank you I've mig welded before with gas I just want to learn it with flux core I'll keep watching your videos
Just do 1/4" at a time and move around to minimize warpage. The easiest way to stack dimes is one at a time. Pulse makes things stupid easy. I was stick welding 1/4 panels 40 years ago.
A piece of scrap copper, I use 3/4” copper flattened with one end left like a handle as a backer if I can. That helps dissipate the heat . Works great as long as you can get at the back.
I have a little adjustible magnetic copper plate that I like to use as well. Works pretty good 👍
Thanks bro for all your welding videos.
I appreciate it man👍
Did some patch panels with my cheap flux core, with results that were not great, but I did it. But now I have more rusty projects, so I ordered a small mig unit. Should make life a bit easier...
Good info and thanks!
Thank you sir!
I started out my project with flux core on 18 and 16 gauge. Lots of heat warping . Once i went to mild steel wire and c25 it went much better .
Gas welders are much better for sheetmetal because of the thinner wire. If I was trying to do a profesional job, I would use gas. But for a hobby welder flux core will get the job done
For comparison it might be worth having a look at what “Bondobilly’ (might be ‘Bondo Billy’ on TH-cam) has to say about flux core welding car body panels. Similar stitching technique but 1” stick out and really hot welds.
Great video. Keep up the good work
Thanks man, I really appreciate it!
WoW - your a very good Teacher - I subscribed - be checking out all your video's - thanks
Thank you!
Excellent video, thanks
GRACIAS
👍 thank you for watching
great info. thank you for posting this.
Thank you! There are more videos like this coming out soon so make sure to check back
That was very helpful!
Thank you!
Great video, again.
Thank you for the amazing info man!!
Question for you!
You say to break of the point… ok
But do you tack break point tack break etcéteras.. or
Break only the first one?
Ever try a torch? Think Dulcich uses old school method. I love torch welding.
Its more expensive and less convenient than a little flux core box. There are places where thats the best thing to use but in the majority of situations a cheapy welder works better and easier to use.
What did you set your wire speed and your voltage to on your machine for flex core welding exhaust pipe????????????
Thanks for the tip
Vary vary helpful
Thank you!
Good video
Thanks, I hope it helps!
you are the best.
If you weld this flat on a welding table doesn't it act as a heat sync that helps decrease warpage? Thanks for the informative videos👍👍👍✌️✌️🤙🏻🙏🏻😁👌
Yes, that could work but you could avoid all of that by not welding for extended periods of time on sheet metal. The preffered way would be to just go around with tack welds until its fully welded in.
if you can afford the table. also if you can weld flat on the table and not weld your piece to the expensive table.
it also wont work if your panel is curved and your piece has minimal contact surface with the table.
I'm a bit lost here, so it seemed as if both ways were a fail if I understand correctly? The 1st was warped and 2nd didn't penetrate correct? Thank you for your time
It penetrated enough to hold the panel where it needed to be. Good tack welds are incredibly strong and they dont need to go all the way through
How can you weld with fcaw when it's so hard to see your what your welding with a spatter cloud vs. a mig weld which is easy to see
Hello Again NightWrencher!!! Love and blessings from Michigan. Thanks again for your tutorial and tips. It means a lot to us beginners. I'am in the process of choosing a machine. Thinking of a dual setup that can do Mig fluxcore or (gas) and Tig for aluminum welding. Is that a good choice? Thanks
There are a lot of multi process machines out there. Usually the tig welding attachments are sold seperate so it gets expensive really quick. I would get a basic simple mig machine and start with flux, then move on to gas welding. You can get really nice results with gas welding 👍
As you progress with the weld bead, use hammer and dolly to flatten it out, as you go, or if you try straighten it at the end you'll have a lot harder time trying to straighten it.
Super genius
quick question, i cant remember the specifics, but i thought i read somewhere that some wire (or certain situations maybe?) you cannot weld over your previous weld. is there truth behind that? can you explain?
thanks
dont weld over top of slag. he should have knocked to slag off before making the next weld.
It depends on the situation, for 99% of DIY stuff you can make multiple passes no problem as long as you clean it before starting the next pass
@@zacharygalliher609 Zach - I am a beginner and have been wondering on the point you made. It would seem slag would be a contaminant on top of the metal and interfere with good conductivity, good arc and weld. I have been thinking that as I tack along a sheet metal seam it is best to continuously wire off the slag to shiny metal. Is that the proper way?
11 views and I'm the first 👍,
Man, this youtube a tough crowd. 😆💪
Its a hard game 👌👍
Thanks!
What were your setting?
All your videos are well explained!You should advertise welding lessons for beginners and make a little $$$
Maybe one day! Thank you!
Any recommendation on Voltage, Wire speed and Current for flux core welding on thin metal(1mm-1.5mm)? , what’s your settings on this demonstration?
Sheet metal I try to go as low of heat as possible with the slowest wire speed that it'll take. Each machine is different and sheet metal is tricky but to avoid warpage and to avoid making big welds, slow it down and take it easy. Spot weld in circles quickly also helps
@@NightWrencher thank you so much, l have posted some short videos on my channel - it was terrible to weld flux core on thin metal as I still have no idea on settings, if you may have a look and give me some advice, it’d be really appreciated🥹 it’s very confusing to adjust whether voltage or wire speed.
@@NightWrencher th-cam.com/video/pZLasPUr3eo/w-d-xo.html
@@NightWrencher th-cam.com/video/YBHLznlXMDE/w-d-xo.html
@@NightWrencher th-cam.com/video/3FkrSqEHtn8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!!
What brand wire are you using
For this video I used innershield wire by lincoln. Ive used different brands of wire but I like lincoln wire the best.
Hello and thank you for the video.
Great explanation throughout.
Question though, regarding the second method... "You've got to pick your poison" you said, @ 9:15 you can clearly see the crevice between the two sheets on the back side, won't this be a perfect spot for moisture to hide thus starting a premature failure... in other words, on a body panel this welding technique will fail in a short time, will it not ?
Yes and no, if you cant reach the back of the panel, it doesnt matter what technique you use, it will eventually rust over because it will stay exposed on the back side. If you can reach the back of the panel, you can quickly sand down the back and apply body filler to paint right over it for a sealed finish.
Hi nice video. I am a welding learner and english learner. English is not my mother tongue and i was able to understand 90% of what you said. Where is your accent from ? Thanks dude
You dont need to break any wire off just give the tip/wire a rub on your work piece is all thats needed it works every time
I do that sometimes, even tapping it a little works too. But for sheet metal, I'll either keep tacking while its still red, or break off the tip. The weld strikes easier and you're in and out faster.
@@NightWrencheriv never tried that bc i learned to tap/scratch the rod before there was mig welders but im gona try it i could use a good habit. Thanks mate
Thanks
👍
How about intentionally gapping slightly, then spot weld?
I don't do that for sheet metal. For thicker metals where you need more penetration, I would say go for it.
What's the name of the circular gadget you put on the sheet metal?
It's labelled Vulcan
Its called a metal thickness gauge
Thank you.
👍
Will an aluminum heat sink help prevent warpage?
I've heard that it does but I have not tried it personally
@@BlondieHappyGuy Aluminum is awesome as a table. Cools off quickly and slag doesnt stick to it.
A regular Joe explaining how a regular Joe should do it.
Exactly 👍 you get it
What guage wire are you using?
I like to run .030 wire
I. Been welder on a truck cab that was choped and the person had just taken weld holden tighter I got a harbor freight welder cheap on I can't figure it out on low or hi heat keep maken it worse on welder it burned bigger holes haven a heck of a time
When in doubt turn all the settings down and work the weld slower. increase wirespeed if it pauses too much.
Is your polarity set correctly?
do you have it set to tip negative?
As in your tip is negative and your clamp is positive? I made the mistake of assuming that tip would be positive and my first welds were like that until a buddy educated me.
If he's using a harbor freight flux core welder it's actually probably running in AC. Don't ask me why but that's how they sell em... a little bit of diy mod work, adding a bridge rectifier, capacitor bank, and possibly a choke, can actually turn a nearly un-usable piece of junk into a pretty sweet little flux core machine. That's what I did, you can look up instructions for the modifications here on TH-cam. I 100% suggest you do it. I absolutely love using mine now.
welded sheet metal for 15 years.... if you can, avoid flux core, it goes way too deep. MIG or TIG is the way to go.
Clever. I did flux in school on steel. Had issues with it "punching" especially on open root and ceramic.
I ONLY HAVE A FLUX CORE
@alexandrobrin2891 same here why watch it if you have 15 years of experience? Some people...
@@jaytodd5809flux core has flux in the center of the wire mig is solid wire...no flux and needs a gas for shielding. So no its not the same. And with mig you can weld thinner metal.
@@jaytodd5809it stands for metal inert gas the guys right mig means it needs gas normally argon CO2 mix
you warped it by pushing the panels together after you first weld in which you never clamped....
Planisher it flat when you are done
Take the tip off the wire was new to me.
It helps that the weld and avoids unessesary heat from being added to the panel
1mm E6013 works well also
😊
Don't do it like this unless you want your body panels to look like the ocean
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙋♂️🙋♂️🙋♂️
Actually?
why did you go over the old weld? It made that side thicker and full of rubbish. It should be ground back ffs.
Hello friend
Where U buy your jacket & what do U call it . Thank you for sharing your knowledge . GOD bless 😇 + 🕯♾️ 👏👍 ✟✟✟✡✟✟✟ 4/17/ 22
Hello! I just use denim or leather jackets like dickies or levis. A welding apron can also be used. Stay away from anything made of nylon, polyester or any other plastics, they will melt.
Please take " go ahead" out of you vocabulary, but very good.
Why do Americans say “gonna go ahead and…” all the time. PLEASE STOP!
Sorry to be a bloke govna, dinnit mean ta get ya knackered. Its my fault innit? This might make you chuffed, I'll switch it to "about to stroll on over this area and..."
What I should have said is “gonnae no dae that? Jist, gonnae no?”
@@ochayethegnu2915 😂
If you can’t weld a straight beat in one pass on 24-20 gauge you shouldn’t be doing video educating others. Tacking a beat is not a strong bond on the metal. Unless you wire brush each tac before putting another. That would be dumb. But that would assure the weld fuse together better. You can check out my uncle at weld tips and tricks channel on TH-cam. You might learn something and do a video.
You can weld a bead continuously with mig, but it is nearly impossible with flux core, on such thin metal.
That was one of the worst beads I have ever seen