Thanks for watching! Halibut season open's later this month. Then shrimp season opens in May. Salmon season also later in the year (pinks are running this year), and we're gonna hit squid in the fall. Plenty of fish'n content on the horizon!
Good afternoon yall, Could you explain why you went with a single 300 instead of Twin 150s I know in Florida way try to go with the twins Just for safety In case where 60/70 miles out And lose one. Keep up the good work on the videos you'll have a wonderful day.
Great question and thanks for watching! The boat was designed by Fluid Motion and is rated for a single outboard of a max of 300HP, hence, the Yamaha F300. Personally, i would have loved to have twin 150's for the redundancy, and the control of twin screws. In the Pacific Northwest, where we boat at, we would rarely, if ever, be 60miles off the coast. I could see going maybe 40 miles out, but not really much farther. The F300 is highly reliable as a motor. Twin engines also means twice the maintenance costs. The Cutwater 32 has twin F300's which would be sweet, but way out of my price range.
That seems to be the one that many use, although I note one person on Tugnuts who said it didn't fit. $17 in the US, $40+ in Canada, but I've ordered it anyway. It's the price of living in the Great White North. Thanks for the reply!
@@chasesanborn There's a protective rubber wrap that comes it with it to protect the steering wheel. It doesn't fit with that rubber wrap on. The steering wheel isn't round, it's slightly oblong, while the suicide knob is round. It's likely that if I took ours off the steering wheel may be slightly marred. This is probably why some folks may say "it doesn't fit". However, this is what we use on our steering wheel (without the rubber wrap) and it's immensely helpful when docking. So much so that I couldn't imagine ever not having one at this point.
I have a GXM54 and am trying to solve the same problem on my RT31. What specific XM antenna/adapter setup did you use to convert to a direct connection to the Fusion Stereo? Did you consider splitting the signal from the GXM54 or using a Shakespeare type XM Marine Antenna?
Thanks for watching, and great question! I did not go with the Shakespeare Galaxy marine antenna. This is the antenna kit I bought (see url below). It plugs directly into the Fusion radio. The antenna that came with this is what I used. If you stop/pause the video at the 14:53 mark you'll see exactly where I mounted it. I used velcro to stick the antenna to the smooth fiberglass. There's a small shelf back there that it sits on. On your RT31 this may be different. When I put the antenna in, I left about 6' of cable and I moved it around trying different spots until I found a location that worked well. The only way to use the GXM54 for XM radio that I am aware of is via the auxiliary port on the Fusion radio which the requires the Garmin chartplotter to control the radio stations, which means +25 watts is needed to power the chartplotter when listening to XM Radio. The XM radio slim line antenna I used works good behind the helm. When we're out cruising around it works great and doesn't cut out at all. When we're moored in a covered slip in Everett, no issues at all with sound cutting out. We were in an secluded anchorage last weekend, and had a little audio cutout depending on where the boat was swinging, but wasn't any different than when I drive my car through a secluded road, tall trees around, in a valley, etc... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJH1Z8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@Letsgochannelsurfing Thanks so much for your reply. We anchored near you at Friday Harbor last Summer right after we took delivery of our blue hulled 31CB Toujours. Hope to see you up there soon.
Nicely done list of upgrades. Did you rewire the hot water tank into the inverter/battery system? Given some thought to that on my C32 but concerned about forgetting about it when the boat is not running.
Great question! Our only option for hot water is 115volt shore power or to run the hot water tank off the inverter which is a large amp draw. From the factory, the hot water tank is wired to the AC panel and operates off shore power or the inverter. We do not have an inverter/charger. We have a battery charger and a stand-alone inverter as two separate devices. As a result, we don't have the automatic function of an inverter/charger that can automatically flip between shore power and inverter power. I'm not aware of any inverters that are ignition proof which is a requirement for anything placed in the engine room area due to the gasoline tank (ABYC standards). Our battery charger is located in the starboard lazarette, and our inverter is located inside the cabin. Because of this, if we're not connected to shore power we have to manually start the inverter, apply power to the AC panel, then turn on the breaker for the hot water tank.
@@Letsgochannelsurfing Okay makes sense. We have a combo charger/inverter in the lazarette. The hot water tank and grill only operate offshore power. I've wondered why they are not consistent across boats. If anything, with twin 300s, you have way more amps to help with the load.
@@dhansen68 We upgraded our house battery bank from the two 110Ah AGM factory batteries, which are insufficient to run hot water or the grill off of. We went with 3 Oasis Firefly AGM batteries. Firefly batteries are AGM, but they are different in performance than conventional AGM batteries. With the 3 of them, I get 348Ah in our house bank, of which 225Ah are usable. (Firefly allows DOD down to 80%. Technically, you can run them to 0% and they will recover). I'm able to run the hot water tank now off the 3 Firefly batteries at anchor without a generator. I haven't tried the grill yet, but am certain I'd be able to run it as well. If you haven't had a chance to watch this video, you may want to check it out. "We Killed our House Batteries and you want to replace them with fireflies?" th-cam.com/video/AehPUYetDzU/w-d-xo.html
Thinking more about this... maybe your inverter/charger is a modified sine-wave, rather than a pure sine-wave, as the reason your hot water tank is wired only for shore power.
@@Letsgochannelsurfing No, it's a KISAE Abso 2000 Compact Pure Sine Inverter/Charger. I don't think it would be hard to rewire or add a couple of jumpers.
Love your technical videos like this! Keep up the good work and i do also look forward to some fishing crabbing adventures!
Thanks for watching!
Halibut season open's later this month. Then shrimp season opens in May. Salmon season also later in the year (pinks are running this year), and we're gonna hit squid in the fall. Plenty of fish'n content on the horizon!
nice upgrades
i keep checking out the ranger tugs and now the nordhavn. they got some nice boats as well.
Thanks for watching!
Good afternoon yall, Could you explain why you went with a single 300 instead of Twin 150s I know in Florida way try to go with the twins Just for safety In case where 60/70 miles out And lose one. Keep up the good work on the videos you'll have a wonderful day.
Great question and thanks for watching!
The boat was designed by Fluid Motion and is rated for a single outboard of a max of 300HP, hence, the Yamaha F300. Personally, i would have loved to have twin 150's for the redundancy, and the control of twin screws.
In the Pacific Northwest, where we boat at, we would rarely, if ever, be 60miles off the coast. I could see going maybe 40 miles out, but not really much farther. The F300 is highly reliable as a motor. Twin engines also means twice the maintenance costs. The Cutwater 32 has twin F300's which would be sweet, but way out of my price range.
Yeah my dreamboat is the sea sport 32 with twin 350
Your channel is super informative, thank you. I'm moving up this year from a 21EC to a 23. What spinner knob do you use?
Thanks for watching! Here's the suicide knob we use.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BVQ1KG7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That seems to be the one that many use, although I note one person on Tugnuts who said it didn't fit. $17 in the US, $40+ in Canada, but I've ordered it anyway. It's the price of living in the Great White North. Thanks for the reply!
@@chasesanborn There's a protective rubber wrap that comes it with it to protect the steering wheel. It doesn't fit with that rubber wrap on. The steering wheel isn't round, it's slightly oblong, while the suicide knob is round. It's likely that if I took ours off the steering wheel may be slightly marred. This is probably why some folks may say "it doesn't fit". However, this is what we use on our steering wheel (without the rubber wrap) and it's immensely helpful when docking. So much so that I couldn't imagine ever not having one at this point.
So you sell it with the boat when you move up to the 42 and none's the wiser! :)
@@chasesanborn When we look to move up to the 43, I'd make Ranger Tug include one, otherwise no deal! Lol
I have a GXM54 and am trying to solve the same problem on my RT31. What specific XM antenna/adapter setup did you use to convert to a direct connection to the Fusion Stereo? Did you consider splitting the signal from the GXM54 or using a Shakespeare type XM Marine Antenna?
Thanks for watching, and great question! I did not go with the Shakespeare Galaxy marine antenna. This is the antenna kit I bought (see url below). It plugs directly into the Fusion radio. The antenna that came with this is what I used. If you stop/pause the video at the 14:53 mark you'll see exactly where I mounted it. I used velcro to stick the antenna to the smooth fiberglass. There's a small shelf back there that it sits on. On your RT31 this may be different. When I put the antenna in, I left about 6' of cable and I moved it around trying different spots until I found a location that worked well. The only way to use the GXM54 for XM radio that I am aware of is via the auxiliary port on the Fusion radio which the requires the Garmin chartplotter to control the radio stations, which means +25 watts is needed to power the chartplotter when listening to XM Radio. The XM radio slim line antenna I used works good behind the helm. When we're out cruising around it works great and doesn't cut out at all. When we're moored in a covered slip in Everett, no issues at all with sound cutting out. We were in an secluded anchorage last weekend, and had a little audio cutout depending on where the boat was swinging, but wasn't any different than when I drive my car through a secluded road, tall trees around, in a valley, etc...
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJH1Z8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@Letsgochannelsurfing Thanks so much for your reply. We anchored near you at Friday Harbor last Summer right after we took delivery of our blue hulled 31CB Toujours. Hope to see you up there soon.
@@pbnorris01 We remember you!! (I snapped a pic of your gorgeous boat). Looking forward to seeing you again in the San Juans!
Nicely done list of upgrades. Did you rewire the hot water tank into the inverter/battery system? Given some thought to that on my C32 but concerned about forgetting about it when the boat is not running.
Great question!
Our only option for hot water is 115volt shore power or to run the hot water tank off the inverter which is a large amp draw. From the factory, the hot water tank is wired to the AC panel and operates off shore power or the inverter.
We do not have an inverter/charger. We have a battery charger and a stand-alone inverter as two separate devices. As a result, we don't have the automatic function of an inverter/charger that can automatically flip between shore power and inverter power.
I'm not aware of any inverters that are ignition proof which is a requirement for anything placed in the engine room area due to the gasoline tank (ABYC standards). Our battery charger is located in the starboard lazarette, and our inverter is located inside the cabin. Because of this, if we're not connected to shore power we have to manually start the inverter, apply power to the AC panel, then turn on the breaker for the hot water tank.
@@Letsgochannelsurfing Okay makes sense. We have a combo charger/inverter in the lazarette. The hot water tank and grill only operate offshore power. I've wondered why they are not consistent across boats. If anything, with twin 300s, you have way more amps to help with the load.
@@dhansen68 We upgraded our house battery bank from the two 110Ah AGM factory batteries, which are insufficient to run hot water or the grill off of. We went with 3 Oasis Firefly AGM batteries. Firefly batteries are AGM, but they are different in performance than conventional AGM batteries. With the 3 of them, I get 348Ah in our house bank, of which 225Ah are usable. (Firefly allows DOD down to 80%. Technically, you can run them to 0% and they will recover). I'm able to run the hot water tank now off the 3 Firefly batteries at anchor without a generator. I haven't tried the grill yet, but am certain I'd be able to run it as well.
If you haven't had a chance to watch this video, you may want to check it out.
"We Killed our House Batteries and you want to replace them with fireflies?"
th-cam.com/video/AehPUYetDzU/w-d-xo.html
Thinking more about this... maybe your inverter/charger is a modified sine-wave, rather than a pure sine-wave, as the reason your hot water tank is wired only for shore power.
@@Letsgochannelsurfing No, it's a KISAE Abso 2000 Compact Pure Sine Inverter/Charger. I don't think it would be hard to rewire or add a couple of jumpers.
What is your background??? Electrical upgrades are great if you know what your doing??
My background is that I'm just a boater.