Secret. If you run a high (enough) amp rated ESC and don't over prop you don't need to water cool to save weight. I find that to be more effective than actual water cooling which does cause slight drag. Another secret, if you have to water cool, you don't need larger water opening in the rudder to get better cooling just causes more drag. A small diameter builds more pressure causing a higher flow of water which is what is desired. Also water cooling ALWAYS goes to ESC first then the motor like others mentioned.
See im not huge into RC boats at all, but I like watching people mod or even build RC boats, I find it interesting, but I would rather stick with Short course trucks and Monster trucks, I just like throwing dirt and its just more convenient for me.
late to the party BUT turn the can to the left a little and run the facing forward hose on the left side over then under the front of the motor back along the right side. longer hose but should work.
Mainly weight distribution I set my boat up for straight away passes with the weight moved back in my boat so I'm able to reverse and flip up out of a flip
in my practice, I rotate the cooling water jacket about 15-20degrees towards the side of the boat. In that case, it won't touch the top hatch. I also have separate cooling suction; one for the motor and one for the ESC. Make your boat a little longer so that the boat won't jump and bounce. what is your prop and motor size by the way?
I will try. It's so darn tight in the tub. The esc never really reached high Temps without water cooling? It's getting the hot water from motor so yes maybe I will try. Thankyou for the input. Thanks for watching
No it will hit the side of hatch I even tried running cooling tube on the side of motor its so tight in there. If my motor can were 10mm shorter even 5mm shorter it would be no problem at all.
I think is still to heavy on the prop, you should try to put a little sponson on the back (left) to let run the motor higher. This is the reason why everything is still too warm … with 4s should fly …
A rigger of size has only limited size inside the tub. You should give the watercooling jacket of the motor a little spin to finetune on the watercooling tubing. No springs needed. You save weight on the spring, should have saved weight on the motor instead. Then the motor-angle is far from ideal. Using a flex-cable with proper bend would have enabled you to move motor to the rear.
I can not get ride of the bounce? Do you think the motor is lo large causing it to bounce (to much weight on the sponsons) or is it a mix of motor size and stuffing tube being to high on the transom? Because I've got her torn down rt now I'm replacing the stuffing tube. Gonna make it lower on the transom
@@IRONCLADRC No, is is the angle of the strut which is too high. Flattening this angle and double-check on CG (a few cm behind turnfin, not more) should do the job. Rpm-range of 30k to 35k is the sweet-spot. Only turns to the right and long ovals.
IS That cg is for saw" passes? Mine is about 2 inches behind turn fin I had read that the cg was supposed to be on the back 1/3 for saw speed passes. Will try the CG on the fin. Thanks
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love the pig rig, might make something simular but use a couple of drone motors and cut down props .
Oh man, you and I are alot alike, I got the 1 step down sized pool, I kept water in it a full month after just to do the same....
Secret. If you run a high (enough) amp rated ESC and don't over prop you don't need to water cool to save weight. I find that to be more effective than actual water cooling which does cause slight drag.
Another secret, if you have to water cool, you don't need larger water opening in the rudder to get better cooling just causes more drag. A small diameter builds more pressure causing a higher flow of water which is what is desired.
Also water cooling ALWAYS goes to ESC first then the motor like others mentioned.
thanks for all the advice... Everyday's learning experience
@@IRONCLADRC 😊
See im not huge into RC boats at all, but I like watching people mod or even build RC boats, I find it interesting, but I would rather stick with Short course trucks and Monster trucks, I just like throwing dirt and its just more convenient for me.
late to the party BUT turn the can to the left a little and run the facing forward hose on the left side over then under the front of the motor back along the right side. longer hose but should work.
what size springs do you use? I'm having trouble finding the right ones for my cooling lines
Never use oil on a tube, the oil never dissipates and will compromise the tube's friction-fit.
Use water to lube👍🏼
i got the same rudder for $1.5 on Aliexpress but the bigger size. Is the rudder any good ?
NIce build! How do you setup the 'flip after crash' option?
Mainly weight distribution I set my boat up for straight away passes with the weight moved back in my boat so I'm able to reverse and flip up out of a flip
in my practice, I rotate the cooling water jacket about 15-20degrees towards the side of the boat. In that case, it won't touch the top hatch. I also have separate cooling suction; one for the motor and one for the ESC. Make your boat a little longer so that the boat won't jump and bounce. what is your prop and motor size by the way?
I was running a rocket 2868 4000kv and 50a ztw shark esc.
Could have used 90 deg elbows that has tube coming out the side instead of from top.
I tried wouldn't work thanks for the tip 😕
Maybe you should run the cooling to your esc first to keep it cooler.
I will try. It's so darn tight in the tub. The esc never really reached high Temps without water cooling? It's getting the hot water from motor so yes maybe I will try. Thankyou for the input. Thanks for watching
Can you turn the waterjacket on the motor a quarter turn so cooling would be on the side of motor?
No it will hit the side of hatch I even tried running cooling tube on the side of motor its so tight in there. If my motor can were 10mm shorter even 5mm shorter it would be no problem at all.
I think is still to heavy on the prop, you should try to put a little sponson on the back (left) to let run the motor higher.
This is the reason why everything is still too warm … with 4s should fly …
Thanks th
You should post the pdf for the build.
ECS 40A?
Yes
@@IRONCLADRC I have a Shark 40a, I want to put a more powerful motor, but I'm afraid to break it. What motor can I put on this ESC? Thank you.
A rigger of size has only limited size inside the tub. You should give the watercooling jacket of the motor a little spin to finetune on the watercooling tubing. No springs needed. You save weight on the spring, should have saved weight on the motor instead. Then the motor-angle is far from ideal. Using a flex-cable with proper bend would have enabled you to move motor to the rear.
I can not get ride of the bounce? Do you think the motor is lo large causing it to bounce (to much weight on the sponsons) or is it a mix of motor size and stuffing tube being to high on the transom? Because I've got her torn down rt now I'm replacing the stuffing tube. Gonna make it lower on the transom
First rigger build. Lol. Thanks in advance for the tips my friend
@@IRONCLADRC No, is is the angle of the strut which is too high. Flattening this angle and double-check on CG (a few cm behind turnfin, not more) should do the job. Rpm-range of 30k to 35k is the sweet-spot. Only turns to the right and long ovals.
IS That cg is for saw" passes? Mine is about 2 inches behind turn fin I had read that the cg was supposed to be on the back 1/3 for saw speed passes. Will try the CG on the fin. Thanks
@@IRONCLADRC Check out the YT-channel of e laermans for more info on r/c riggers.