Just wanted to thank you. I was given this camera nearly 20 years ago. Like yours the top is dented, but seems fine. I am NOT a photographer by any means. I have used this only with my telescope with mixed results. Not knowing what the settings and other features did. Sadly someone left a battery in it that ruined the contacts so anything it did as far as metering is dead. I will be returning to rewatch these videos to try to better use my camera. It works great for the long exposer shots thru the scope but I'd like to use it for a regular camera also. THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Thank you! If you wanted to have it repaired, Phototronic in Topeka, KS, is run by a former Mamiya repairman. The contact replacement is pretty easy (in terms of repairs) requiring that the internal wire be replaced and a new contact fabricated (I've seen this done with tin foil in self-performed repairs. But using it for long exposures or with the Sunny 16 rule would work A-Okay.
+David Hancock Camera is working great, just got my first roll of film back www.flickr.com/photos/bybudphotos/24615306219/in/photostream/ thanks again!
GrievingWilson Dude. Holy cow. You have some amazing work in that album. The girl on the train car, the urbex dude with the tripod, the high-key portrait. That's all top-notch material.
Check eBay. I might have one or more of these for sale (I forget and I'm on the road so I can't check my inventory.) But there should be one or more of these on eBay at any time.
I'm sure you've found your answer by now, but in case anyone else is wondering, the Mamiya DSX 500 takes a regular 1.5v battery like this camera. I have the Mamiya DSX 1000 and use the common 1.5v batteries and get great results.
Fantastic and very helpful videos. Thank you. I just tried to take the film out of my 1000TL and forgot to hit the release button prior to rewinding and effectively tore the film from the canister. Film is ruined of course, but do you think this would cause any damage to the camera mechanisms? Thanks so Much
Sí, las carcasas de los prismas de las cámaras SLR tenían esas protuberancias para dejar espacio a la forma del prisma. El prisma invierte y voltea la luz que entra por la lente para que lo que ves en la cámara sea lo que tienes frente a ti (las lentes voltean e invierten la escena). Entonces, la forma del prisma es un poco compleja para lograr eso. ¡Gracias!
Thank you so much for this video on the Mamiya 1000 tl and for all the others. They are so helpful. I just purchased one and looked forward to the challenge of the spot metering. But... I am confused what the manual and auto is on the lens. Does the auto make the lens automatic to where all you have to set is the shutter speed? It just looks so different through the lens when you press the meter. I also think my meter is a little wacky. Thank you again for all your videos. I am going through them.
Thank you! Manual and auto on the lenses refers to how the aperture works -- whether the camera will stop it down during exposure or whether the aperture closes when you adjust the aperture ring. The camera doesn't have an automatic exposure setting, everything is fully manual. You can use auto when you use the meter reading function. So you'd press the advance lever in to turn on the meter. That also stops down the aperture and gives you an accurate reading. These do use old batteries that are no longer made. The batteries today that fit the space are 1.5 volts vice the batteries of this camera's time being 1.35 volts. That will affect metering by about two stops. There are voltage-adapting battery adapters (around $35) for these that let you use LR44 (357, S76, A76, etc, all the same thing) batteries in these with correct metering. If you have a 1.5-volt battery in your camera, you can use the Sunny 16 rule to compensate. With your back to the sun on a day with full sun, set your ASA dial to the film speed, your shutter to the speed nearest the film's speed, and your aperture to f/16. The shutter should tell you a meter speed that's about two stops faster than your actual speed should be. For instance, with the Sunny 16 rule, at f/16 on a sunny day your shutter speed would be 1/125th. Your meter with a 1.5-volt battery should tell you 1/500th, or thereabouts. So once you have your shutter speed and aperture set, take your meter reading and adjust the ISO dial until you get a proper meter reading with your aperture at f/16 and shutter speed matching (as close as possible) the film's ISO. Make sure that the advance lever is pushed in to take an accurate meter reading. The FIx Old Cameras channel also has a video showing how to install a diode into camera circuitry that allows modern batteries to be used correctly. You'd need some soldering skills, but the process isn't too hard. I think they show it being done on an Olympus OM-1.
The battery only operates the meter, so the camera will function correctly mechanically in that all the shutter speeds will work and the lens aperture will close properly, yes.
So let's troubleshoot. There are a few possibilities. I'm assuming your lens cap is off. So first thing is to take the lens off the camera and see if the mirror is visible or stuck upwards. If it's visible, then the biggest potential issue can be ruled out.
Just wanted to thank you. I was given this camera nearly 20 years ago. Like yours the top is dented, but seems fine. I am NOT a photographer by any means. I have used this only with my telescope with mixed results. Not knowing what the settings and other features did. Sadly someone left a battery in it that ruined the contacts so anything it did as far as metering is dead. I will be returning to rewatch these videos to try to better use my camera. It works great for the long exposer shots thru the scope but I'd like to use it for a regular camera also. THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Thank you!
If you wanted to have it repaired, Phototronic in Topeka, KS, is run by a former Mamiya repairman. The contact replacement is pretty easy (in terms of repairs) requiring that the internal wire be replaced and a new contact fabricated (I've seen this done with tin foil in self-performed repairs. But using it for long exposures or with the Sunny 16 rule would work A-Okay.
Great explanation of the flash and shutter speed syncing
Thank you!
just bought one and your video is amazingly helpful! Thanks so much
+GrievingWilson Thank you!
+David Hancock Camera is working great, just got my first roll of film back
www.flickr.com/photos/bybudphotos/24615306219/in/photostream/
thanks again!
GrievingWilson Dude. Holy cow. You have some amazing work in that album. The girl on the train car, the urbex dude with the tripod, the high-key portrait. That's all top-notch material.
+David Hancock Thanks so much... For your kind words and making all these videos !
Thank you! That was excellent! I have the DTL1000. I was looking for the shutter release for double exposure. Thank you for clarifying that! haha
Thank you!
Very good video for a beginner with this camera.
Thank you! That's my main objective with these.
Hey, I had one gifted to me, but it was missing the battery cap/cover. I was wondering where i could purchase a replacement, if it is even possible.
Check eBay. I might have one or more of these for sale (I forget and I'm on the road so I can't check my inventory.) But there should be one or more of these on eBay at any time.
@@DavidHancock thanks ill be sure to check it out. This really helps
Hi, I have a Mamiya/Sekor DSX 500. What battery should I use for this model?
I honestly don't know. I've never used one of those.
I'm sure you've found your answer by now, but in case anyone else is wondering, the Mamiya DSX 500 takes a regular 1.5v battery like this camera. I have the Mamiya DSX 1000 and use the common 1.5v batteries and get great results.
Fantastic and very helpful videos. Thank you. I just tried to take the film out of my 1000TL and forgot to hit the release button prior to rewinding and effectively tore the film from the canister. Film is ruined of course, but do you think this would cause any damage to the camera mechanisms? Thanks so
Much
Thank you! It shouldn't. This is a pretty old camera and much of that mechanism will be metal. I just wouldn't suggest making that a habit.
Esta cámara también parece tener un golpe en el prisma como la Miranda Sensorex ¿o es un efecto optico?
Muchas gracias. Soy suscriptor
Sí, las carcasas de los prismas de las cámaras SLR tenían esas protuberancias para dejar espacio a la forma del prisma. El prisma invierte y voltea la luz que entra por la lente para que lo que ves en la cámara sea lo que tienes frente a ti (las lentes voltean e invierten la escena). Entonces, la forma del prisma es un poco compleja para lograr eso. ¡Gracias!
Thank you so much for this video on the Mamiya 1000 tl and for all the others. They are so helpful. I just purchased one and looked forward to the challenge of the spot metering. But... I am confused what the manual and auto is on the lens. Does the auto make the lens automatic to where all you have to set is the shutter speed? It just looks so different through the lens when you press the meter. I also think my meter is a little wacky. Thank you again for all your videos. I am going through them.
Thank you!
Manual and auto on the lenses refers to how the aperture works -- whether the camera will stop it down during exposure or whether the aperture closes when you adjust the aperture ring. The camera doesn't have an automatic exposure setting, everything is fully manual. You can use auto when you use the meter reading function. So you'd press the advance lever in to turn on the meter. That also stops down the aperture and gives you an accurate reading.
These do use old batteries that are no longer made. The batteries today that fit the space are 1.5 volts vice the batteries of this camera's time being 1.35 volts. That will affect metering by about two stops. There are voltage-adapting battery adapters (around $35) for these that let you use LR44 (357, S76, A76, etc, all the same thing) batteries in these with correct metering. If you have a 1.5-volt battery in your camera, you can use the Sunny 16 rule to compensate.
With your back to the sun on a day with full sun, set your ASA dial to the film speed, your shutter to the speed nearest the film's speed, and your aperture to f/16. The shutter should tell you a meter speed that's about two stops faster than your actual speed should be. For instance, with the Sunny 16 rule, at f/16 on a sunny day your shutter speed would be 1/125th. Your meter with a 1.5-volt battery should tell you 1/500th, or thereabouts.
So once you have your shutter speed and aperture set, take your meter reading and adjust the ISO dial until you get a proper meter reading with your aperture at f/16 and shutter speed matching (as close as possible) the film's ISO. Make sure that the advance lever is pushed in to take an accurate meter reading.
The FIx Old Cameras channel also has a video showing how to install a diode into camera circuitry that allows modern batteries to be used correctly. You'd need some soldering skills, but the process isn't too hard. I think they show it being done on an Olympus OM-1.
@@DavidHancock Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Will this run without a battery?
The battery only operates the meter, so the camera will function correctly mechanically in that all the shutter speeds will work and the lens aperture will close properly, yes.
how are the photos it takes?
Mamiya made great lenses, so it has the capability to take great shots. But ultimately, the photographer is responsible for the images.
Got ambient and spot reading on mine!
+secularnevrosis That would be a DTL1000. Those are great cameras.
I can't see through my viewfinder
Is it black when you look in it?
Yes
So let's troubleshoot. There are a few possibilities.
I'm assuming your lens cap is off. So first thing is to take the lens off the camera and see if the mirror is visible or stuck upwards. If it's visible, then the biggest potential issue can be ruled out.
Hi. Can u use it?
Looks like the coin 1peso from Philippines
That makes sense. Thank you!
lol ur camera is possessed by Nikon and Canon