On Nikon F mount DSLR flange distance is 46.5mm so if you want to use Canon FD/EF 42mm/44mm , Minolta 44.5, m42 45.46mm ,Pentax K 45.5mm or Range finder glass that ain't gone work because the F mount flange is too long. You have to find lenses which fits on even longer flange distance to put adapter in between but then again have to take care that rear lens element of such lens does not protrude in to camera body so you don't hit the element with mirror.I used to use vintage lenses on Sony a99 and that was the best way to adapt glass on SLR. Sony a99 has translucent mirror so it does not move and use also EVF with peaking.
Thank you thank you thank you! Electronis in lenses have created new opportunities for adapting lenses, but many manufactures provjded what was needed. Konica was great about that. With patience, tools and muscle power and a Nikon BR2 reversing ring, I was able to make a Minolta 250mm mirror lens fit Nikons. Almost but not quite focuses at infinity... for now... Again, thank,you!
Thank you for sharing your views. I was interested to hear that your images are straight out of the camera. You have shown some beautiful shots in the past. Always a joy to watch. I just purchase a Zorki 6 having watched a recent Episode. It’s has a great feel in the hand. Very pleased with it. The rangefinder tab was I little stiff but eased with a tiny dab of WD40. Works perfectly now.. keep up the great reviews...some of the old lenses are fantastic quality and such good value.
The Zorki 6 is a great little camera, hope you're enjoying it! Rangefinder tabs can seize up if the camera isn't used for a while, especially if the lens is stored retracted towards the body, pushing the tab against spring pressure. Should the WD40 dry out, you may find a - very - tiny drop of motor oil works better as it resists drying to a much greater extent. Happy rangefinding!
Regarding dust, I dry my B and W film in the shower cubicle, roll it up after a couple of hours, put it back in a film canister and then scan using a duplicator lens, if I had dust, I would scan them in the bathroom straight after drying.
The rigid industar 50 rangefinder lens is a zenit slr lens with an adapter tube and rangefinder cam screwed in the back. If you remove the screw holding the tube on, it unscrews. You can then use it to adapt any zenit m39 slr lens to a leica m39 camera. If you remove the cam, the lens can be used on a zenit m39 slr. 2 notes, the tube and cam may have some thread locking compound on them, a little bit of alcohol will loosen it. The cam has a left hand thread, turn clockwise to unscrew.
You CAN adapt anything on Nikon because of the short flange distance. With no glass. All you have to is create distance between film and lens. edit: on Nikon mirrorless cams the flange distance is the shortesþ so you can adapt even sony nex E lenses because there is 2mm space to adapt. Dslrs might be the opposite
For dust issues I have used an ionizing blow fan over the work area. If you have a source of compressed air you can also use an ionizing blow off nozzle. Neither are very expensive and both work nicely to solve dust issues.
Actually saying that the flange distance on nikon srls is shorther then most of other sistems is wrong. It's actually longer and, with an adaptor you can "add" flange distance, but you cannot take away it. That's why it's harder to adapt lenses on nikon f mount and others
Yep this video is completely wrong, Nikon F mount has one of the longest back focus distances for DSLR's there is a nice table on Wikipedia that has good list; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
I've got a Nikon DSLR, and I use it with vintage lenses. I've bought one of the cheapest Nikon-M42 adaptors (about 10-15 GBP). My Helios 44 works great, but I've got some issues with Zeiss lenses. They can't be focused to infinity, because they hit the lens of the adaptor. Apart from that I can't complain about how they work.
I think you reversed your first statement - The Nikon flange sits farther away from the film plane / sensor as compared to most other brands , not closer. The jupiter 12 sits very well adapted to my ricoh gxr leica m module and that is my favorite digital camera other than the Fujifilm x-Pro1.
I've successfully mounted a Jupiter 12 Contax mount to my Sony A7 - with a little trepidation, as you can't tell if the shutter will collide, but it seems to work ok!
I have a Nikon D810. With vintage M42 type lenses, you get a very narrow focusing range. Say .7 meters close, to 3 meters on the far side. Frustrating, as hell, but still a workable range for some things like portraits, flowers, etc... Many subjects fall within that range. I often use my Helios on it, whilst working withing those imitations. On the plus side, there are many excellent vintage Nikkor lenses that work brilliantly on it.
Backwards compatibility is one of the best features of Nikon DSLRs, and I really should have mentioned that in the video! Not quite as flexible as some other digital cameras, but there are loads of old Nikon lenses to use - and no need for adaptors either!
@@zenography7923 This morning I broke out the tape measure, and have the actual measurements. :-) Helios 44-2 on Nikon D810: Close focus: 14 inches (.36 meters) Far focus: 6 feet (1.8 meters) So yes, the range is super narrow.
I have been using adapted lenses on several Sony emount cameras for a few years. For the most part I find them easy and fun to use. My wife says that I have too many old slr lenses, but that's not true. I have a beautiful old Konica 35 to 100mm f2.8 that's wonderful although it's big and rather heavy. I've also got several beautiful old Vivitar series 1 lenses in various mounts. Anyway, there are lots of great old lenses available for very reasonable prices. I always watch and enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge, I appreciate it.
Bonjour Nigel, Mon épouse commence à vous regarder de travers ! Les télémètres russes s'alignent sur mon meuble de salle à manger au-dessus d'une pléthore d'objectifs vintage. Je suis en train d'essayer un Zorkiy (1) j'ai tiré avec 2 Kiev (4 AM et M) ils sont fabuleux. J'attends avec impatience l'arrivée d'un Zorkiy 3M révisé par l'ami Oleg de Russie.Dommage que les frais de douane dépassent la valeur de l'appareil , frais de transport compris. J'ai toujours autant de plaisir à suivre vos "épisodes" Continuez dans cette voie et ne changez rien. Mes meilleures salutations
Et bonjour Fatpat! Oh mon Dieu, j'espère que je n'ai pas trop dérangé ta femme! On dirait que vous avez de belles caméras là-bas; heureux que vous appréciez la chaîne et merci pour vos aimables remarques!
I’m an Olympus fan but wanted a full frame mirrorless. At the end of a successful and busy 2019 I congratulated myself with a Nikon Z6 kit. No issues at all adapting any slr or rangefinder lenses. However, like you mention absolutely no luck at all adapting to my D700 or D800. The adapters I’ve tried with the elements to correct for Nikon flange distance are unreliable and are usually fitted with a low quality plastic element at that. Had I known that I’d mostly be using this Z6 as a host for vintage lenses, I would have saved an imperial assload of money and probably bought a first generation Sony A7 instead. Which as it turns out would have been handy considering how my and everyone else’s income evaporated due to the planetary funk that shall not be mentioned. Thanks for another great production my friend. Stay safe.
Ah yes, the planetary funk... I do hope the work's starting up again now Jeff, it can't be too long away! I guess one compensation with the Nikon DSLRs is that they'll mount all the old Nikon glass, without any tedious mucking about with adaptors! Every cloud, eh? Those plastic element adaptors sound awful though...
Those focus heliodes are a pain to get back together, sometimes you even get the fun of realigning them. I oftern get lenses with fungus, there's a risk but most of the time the repair will be a sucess.
I have a Canon 1000D, an EOS EF-S mount camera and I can use most vintage lenses with an adaptor. There are some that you can't though so it's worth checking. Oddly, Canon FD lenses don't work. But all the most common types are fine.
Exactly, that's the reason why I still prefer to buy lenses with Nikkor F mount. They can be used on every other body, and of course also Nikon cameras. There is one exception. The Nikon 24/3.5 T&S can be mounted on every mirrorless camera, but you can't change the aperture. I have one, and instead I have also bought the Canon 24/3.5 T&S. That one can be used on every mirrorless camera and the aperture can be changed. By the way, I always search for bargains, that's why I have so many lenses and other stuff. The best way to invest money. Remember I bought a black Contax T3 for $ 270. Sold a week later for $ 450. The prices for those nowadays is near $ 2000. Reason why I'm a m43 shooter is the Metabones Speedbooster for Nikkor to m43.. I gain one stop, and 0,71 magnification. I also got an Olympus OM to m43 Speedbooster for a nice price.
There are bargains to be found out there with patience - as you have shown! I ought to have mentioned in the video that an advantage of Nikon DSLRs is that backwards compatibility with all that lovely old Nikon glass - without the need for adaptors! Definitely a plus point!
Since you adapt all these vintage lenses to your Sony full frame mirrorless camera, I wonder if you could please comment about the lens adapters you have chosen to use? Is there a brand of adapter that you think provides the best results? Have you experimented with multiple lens adapter brands and which do you use? I personally adapt my glass to a Fuji X-mount mirrorless camera and have K&F Concept adapters for my Nikon and Canon FD lenses. I went with cheaper Fotasy adapters for Minolta MD, M39, and M42 lenses. Below is a link to a video from the channel "Andrew and Denae" where they compared a bunch of different brands of dumb lens adapters using the same lens and same camera. They looked at the impact of the adapter brand on the final images. Some were definitely better than others. The big caveat here was that they only looked at one copy of any particular lens adapter, so there is no accounting for variation within the same adapter brand. I thought you might enjoy. Thanks. th-cam.com/video/7EUs-SUnPMs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, that's an interesting video. I must admit, I only ever use the cheapest 'dumb' adaptors and haven't had any problems with them. Occasionally one might focus a bit past infinity, but that's no real disadvantage.
There is one mount ring you can buy for OM to adapt to Nikon body.. You swap the mount. Doesn't work for all OM mount lenses.. The ring is a little expensive 15 Euro
Ever since discovering your channel, I'm becoming increasingly interested in shooting with vintage glass. With the information from your channel, I have since managed to obtain a Helios 44M-4 (I think a much later multi-coated version), Super-Takumar 55mm, F.2, and Super Takumar 135mm F3.5. All for peanuts and in good condition. I'm particularly impressed with the build quality and image quality of the Super-Takumars I have, especially when shooting B&W pictures. There's something to it, I can't quite define or explain what it is (a certain character/feel to the pictures perhaps), that I like about the images from the Takumars in particular.
You just can't beat a good Takumar! Remember though that many are slightly radioactive - in my (and many others') opinion safe for everyday use, but never hold one to your eye, or any other delicate spots come to that!
Zenography copy that! My 55mm F.2 is radio active for sure. The yellow-ish coating seems to give it away. I’m not convinced my 135mm is radio active. No yellow coatings, and from what I’ve been able to gather, there’s a radio-active version and a (later?) version with non radio active coatings.
I made a video on cleaning oil from the aperture blades of a Helios 44 - it covers removal of the glass and cleaning the blades, but not separating the barrel - it might cover much of what you need: th-cam.com/video/PnTEJIIcerI/w-d-xo.html
Nikon DSLR can use DKL mount lens like Voigtländer and Schneider-Kreuznach lenses, other than DKL lenses, you may not able to focus to infinity or you may need a correction lens inside the adapter mount, but will infect the image quality quite a lot
@@zenography7923 one more thing, the sensor crop ratio will not affect the minimum focus distance, fucus distance vary by sensor and lens element distance, unless using an adapter changing flange distance, the mdf will be the same, and sensor size will only affects how much image you can capture from the lens focal plane, only magnification ratio will change by different sensor size.
I bought a Helios 44-2 58mm F2 from Retro Photo House for Nikon F mount. It is basically M42 on the lens and a very thin adapter to Nikon F mount. I think the lens, on a lathe, is ground down a little. Reassembled and screws into Nikon F mount via M42 adapter. I get infinity focus without any lens in the adapter.
Oh, that's good to know, so there's enough metal on the Helios that it can stand a little machining to get the right dimensions. And I would imagine others can be adapted in the same way too?
@@zenography7923 I saw a video somewhere about this a few guys have done this to vintage lenses. Kind of like a camera repair guy that takes lenses apart for cleaning and/or modifications. Retro Foto House has also added auto focus to Helios 44-2 58mm for Nikon F body by disassembling a Nikon 50mm AF lens and adding the AF part to back of machined Helios. Infinity focus without a glass adapter.
The first bit had me scratching my head, that's gonna confuse someone. Lol. so I'd thought I'd drop my answer in here, Nikon flange distance 46.5mm. m42 lenses 45.46mm , 1 mm difference + a little bit for a simple sub £5 adapter, looses infinity as the focus range is pulled closer, RF lenses on SLR become macro with a 42 39 ring. Going the other way around goodness knows why, M42 lens to m39 helicoid adapters exist, would need calibration to infinity with scotch tape on B setting, and then focus with lens marking ,stoped down a bit to help. I have a question for a future video , what's your most expensive photography mistake, mine are when I was 15 giving away a rolliflex TLR I got for peanuts from a junk shop, And more recently doing a full spectrum conversion on a canon DSLR.
The only collapsible lens that will collapse safely on my Sony A7 is the 1938 uncoated Fed 10. My Summitar would hit the sensor, as would the Industar 22 and 50! Approach with extreme caution!
I find myself just like you, shooting only in Black and White, developing myself and scanning them on my own.... I have three rolls of color film to develop and I am not sure where to take them.... such a shame! What can you tell about a Rollei SL35? I have the german model with a carls Zeiss Planar 1.8 50mm. Cannot find much content about it.
Hmm, I can't find much information on this camera either, although the lens sounds lovely! This search: www.google.com/search?q=rollei+sl35&oq=rollei+sl35&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.7268j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 brings up some information, though you may already have seen much of it?
I haven't shot with the Rollei SL35 but have used that lens on digital. Though its probably labelled Rollei HFT planar 50mm 1.8 and not Zeiss as Zeiss had supposedly given up that design to Rollei and voigtlander (rebranded as voigtlander color-ultron 50mm 1.8). It is a beautiful lens with punchy saturated colors on the warm side. It is a 7elements/6groups design, but the closest lens with similar rendering I find is the zeiss pancolar 50mm 1.8 (though it is a 6elements/4groups design with a lovely 33cms minimal focus distance.
Another interesting video from Z. Keep promoting the use of vintage lenses, it's proper recycling. If you get the opportunity try the Konica Hexanon 40mm F1.8. It's an absolute peach, tiny even with a dumb adapter on digital. Fast, lovely colours but best of all is the dreamy bokeh. Bucket loads of the stuff, almost as if you've just woken up and are trying to focus on the world around you. I love my Russian lenses, Pentax and Zuiko lenses, but the Konica is just so lovely. They are inexpensive but definitely not cheap.
I've heard a lot of good things about this lens, and after using the Voigtlander Nokton 40mm I really like the 40mm length for street work. I haven't been able to find any 40mm Hexars though,, they seem to be rather rare!
Jupiter 12 does indeed have a very protruding rear element, but I have one that fits on my Sony A7 without touching the sensor (though I think some variants have different clearances, so care is needed). It produces bad blur at the edges, though, presumably due to the different surface of the sensor rather than the film it was designed for - it's fine on a film camera. And talking of mounting vintage lenses on a DSLR, I've found it largely pointless - I have adapters for my Canon, but the lack of any focusing aid makes it a serious pain. I definitely stick to mirrorless for vintage lenses - A7, and Lumix m4/3. And, of course, you can get all the adapters you need for SLR and RF lenses on mirrorless cameras :-) And finally, on colour developing - I still miss Kodachrome :-(
If there's one film stock I wish hadn't disappeared, it's Kodachrome - and there's no real replacement for it either! As for manual focusing with DSLRs, yes, it's tricky! I recently shot my Nikon FE and Olympus OM2 and marvelled at how easy they were to focus! Better even than focus peaking, in my view! If only manufacturers would include such a system on DSLRs!
@@zenography7923 Oh, definitely, the old SLR split-image prism was the best - OM2 user myself too. It makes it easy to, say, focus slightly front of something, then slightly behind, and see what works best. Speaking of Kodachrome, I found an exposed roll here long after the last lab had closed, and I thought I had nothing to lose by trying to develop it as black and white - and the results were really good (if a bit contrasty). Turns out it was a roll I shot in Limerick in around 1986.
Wow, Jack Hargreaves ! Was that the series where he used to be sitting in a shed talking about the countryside? Also, Bygones by Dick Joyce. Similarly delightful old world TV. Ted Ellis on Look East looking at the countryside. That kind of charm seems to be absent from TV. Glad that its alive here on this channel.
Got an EM10 mark ii and once I started to use my old OM system lenses on them with an adaptor, the fun really started. They are some of the most beautifully crafted things I have ever used.
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@@davebellamy4867 I believe you! On my side, I mostly use FD mount lenses on my E-M10. I have a speed booster, which degrades the image quality a little bit due to the added piece of glass BUT, which reduces the crop factor. Hence, my FD 50mm, f1.4 behaves like a 70mm instead of a 100mm.
I use three places here in the UK to get my film developed. Photo Hippo in Burnley is a great place for getting film developed, they take great care of your film. Another great place is Nik & Trick in Folkstone, I buy my Vision 3 from there and send it back to them for developing. I also use my lical Max Spielmann photo store here in Wigan, the staff there have looked after me since I returned to film photography in 2017.
@@zenography7923 I'm happy to share info with you. All three have kept film developing going since the advent of the digital revolution. Film refuses to die! It's been a tough market at times, but film still has a place in the 21st century.
There are several labs in the US that do a great job. I've never had an issue with C41 processing at my local camera shop (Robert's in Indianapolis). For anything other than C41, I send to Dwayne's in Parsons, KS.
For printing personal snapshots, I rely again on my local camera shop (Robert's in Indianapolis). For client, gallery, or competition prints, I send to American Color Imaging in Cedar Falls, IA. Their prints always look incredible.
Two things about film. I have really enjoyed how easy the Cinestill C41 kit makes color developing. I also let my negatives dry in a room with an exhaust hood, and that has seemed to work at keeping dust off them as they dry. I admit though that I only started developing film because it's hard to find and expensive to develop it anywhere else.
I hadn't heard of that kit, but I'd be interested to give it a try! Cinestill is one of my favourite film stocks too. Dust has been a major problem for me, but at the scanning rather than the drying stage - I think static electricity may have something to do with it, however, a simple blower gets most of it - if I'm quick!
You have this inverted in the beginning (afterwards you find back to your senses. HA!). The flange distance of the Nikon is longer than most other cameras (with the exception of Leica R and Praktina, I think, but the Leica lenses are expensive and the Praktina lenses are rare as the cameras and the lenses typically extend quite far into the body, potentially creating a conflict with the mirror if adapted). Hence any spacing added by the adapter stuck onto the Nikon F-mount leads to a (increasing) loss of infinity focus (they wouldn't have infinity even if mounted flush on the mount). This could be averted by a.) professionally adapting the whole lens (exchanging the rear part of the lens body), which is quite costly, or b.) for some lenses whose mount is small enough in diameter that they can be stuck "into" the Nikon mount without creating a conflict with the mirror. In any case, generally not advisable and therefore best to adapt to mirrorless, which have very short flange distances.
The Jupiter-12 fits on my Sony A7. You need to crop approx 5% of the image due some dark corners and the sharpness at the the edges is very poor. But the center is sharp and the color rendering absolutely great. I am loving it. This lens is very tiny (even with the M39 adapter) and looks/works great on my Sony A7 :-)
@Zenography. Thank you so much for all your videos,. Have a question about rangefinder lenses, Currently have a Jupiter 8 that I use on my Leica M6 and love it. Now I would like to find 2 lenses for the 39mm crew mount that I use on the Mount adapter, would like to have a wider lens , ideally 28mm or 35mm, also like to have a longer lens then the 50mm Jupiter 8. Any recommendations? Thx.
If you want to stick with fsu optics, the Orion 16 28mm is a wide option, the Jupiter 9 85mm f2 is really nice, as is the Jupiter 11 135mm f4 (though that one's a bit slow).
Can you please help with this mount? I bought it seller has no clue!! I thought it was PK but not so sure....thanks your help.... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Paragon-PMC-II-Auto-1-2-8-f-52mm-/174296208448?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
First thank you a lot for sharing all your experience in vintage photo stuff and all your advices. I'd like to clean an old Tair3s lenses because there are stains on optics part. Can you advice me a cleaning solvent to not degraded the optic and succed to remove oil or other stains safely on this vintage lens? Thank you again
I find a 50-50 mixture of vinegar and water will shift most things, and a dilute solution of detergent will shift stubborn oil or grease. Be very, very careful though - wipe very gently and as little as possible, or you may damage the coatings!
Why not process your own colour film? C41 is not difficult to do and quicker than many black and white developers due to the higher temperature. I’m old enough to have used the previous C22 process in the early ‘70s.
You can adapt almost any vintage lens onto Canon EOS body, both film and digital. Except Canon's own FD lenses, weirdly enough, course of different flange distance. Now focussing with those lenses is a whole different matter. If you are using a film EOS camera or an older digital model, you can easily find adapter with electronics that enables you focus confirmation. That was quite cool and course back in the day when Canon 5DmkII with video function was introduced that was quite helpful, course auto focussing via live view / while filming a video was quite terrible if existent at all. SO everybody used vintage lenses at that time on modern canon cameras, old Nikon Ai / Ais and M42 lenses in particular. Now somewhere durning production time of 5DmkIII Canon made a change in firmwares on all cameras that prevents the usage of such adapters, and given that Canon declined to give their users ability of focus peaking on their DSLR cameras, focusing vintage lenses is harder than ever. Unless, as I said, if you have a EOS film or older digital camera...
Gosh, that can't have pleased the large numbers of film makers who bought into the Canon system! I wonder if there's a third party hack (magic lantern or something similar) to get around this?
@@zenography7923 Magic Lantern, yes, that also adds focus peaking (what's simply wonderful) but that can (but yet agin may not) burn the processor in your Canon camera. Now if you got the camera cheap enough what makes it worth the risk, I'll say go for it...
Q. Does the DOF for any given aperture remain the same for a lens of a given focal length on a smaller aperture camera? That is, does the DOF of a 50mm lens at f2.8 remain the same on a APS/C as it would be on full frame? Thank you.
No, you gain effective DOF with a smaller sensor. The great benefit of a full frame camera is a more blurry background for the same aperture setting. Great for portraits but I moved from APSC to FF a few months ago, took me a while to adjust to having less of a range in focus, back to my film days of 20 years ago :-)
I shoot both FF and APSC (Nikon and Fuji) As far as shallow DOF, you lose just a bit. One stop at most, probably less than that, could even be half a stop. An f/1.6 or f/1.7 on an APSC is more or less equal to an f/2 on FF. Not a big deal to me. If shallow DOF is your thing, just buy faster lenses if using APSC.
Well is you stay on a same place the DOF will be same for FF, apsc and m4/3 only crop of the image will be different. If you re-frame your image then you will have to move back to get same image on a FF and D.O.F will be different. DOF is not determine by the size of the sensor but distance between focus plane and subject (closer you are more shallow depth of field will be) with respect to the background, focal length and aperture. The difference in D.O.F between apsc and FF is not so big so it come to the question what for the camera and lens will be used.
I am watching a hannimex 135mm Tele lens on eBay listed for 99p start but they said it's new Which it can't be.but looks in vgh No camera mount mentioned and cannot tell from the photos. I don't know but I think people inheri lenses & just list them on eBay
Sony E is 18mm and m4/3 is 19.25mm so you can adapt if you have a thin ring adapter from e.g Fotodiox. Be aware that you might need to crop image since lens projection circuit is made to cover m4/3 sensor and not apsc.
@@zenography7923 You get a adaptor Pentacon 6 to Nikon F for 20€ , and from Mamiya 645 to Nikon F for 50€. iI Use it analog with F90X and FM. And digital with Nikon D200 and with shift adaptor Nikon F to Sony E and mft.
Hi Good People😊 I wonder if someone could help me a bit. I have managed to find locally great condition canon fd lenses. I’ve used k&f fd to m43 adapter with my gx80(my first camera, had it for few weeks). But sadly I ran into some problems. When I use those fd lens(50mm f2), I get black image if I use fairly normal shutter speed(1.25). Only way to get picture is to increase to use long shutter abd high iso. Which basically it makes impossible to shoot from hand. Can someone explain what I’m doing wrong?
If the lens is properly attached to the camera, the only possible reason for what you describe is that something's blocking the light between the lens and the sensor. On most adaptors, Canon FD lenses are very tricky to mount correctly - you have to line the pin up right or the aperture will not open fully. Make sure the aperture opens up fully with the lens mounted - if it won't, then mount the lens to the adaptor again!
Nope shorter flange distance then Nikon.All m42 lenses will fit on Pentax K with adapter.I would recommend to use original Pentax adapter and not cheap knock off.
Vintage Pentax PK fit lenses have an aperture lug at back. To fit my Canon EOS full frame bodies I chop this off with sidecutters so it doesn't foul the mirror. I also file the sharp edges off but holding lens back downwards so no shrapnel goes inside lens. Sounds a bit drastic but it allows you to use a whole range of lovely Pentax SMC lenses.
No, they're not the same - the pitch of the thread is different, and if interchanged, the threads on both the lens and the camera will be damaged. Don't do it!
Hello! I would like to ask for help. I shoot using fujifilm xt2 with vintage lenses and I recently purchased a vintage lens but I don't know which adapter will I need. Is there a way that I can show you my lens? The lens I bought is Vivitar 28mm f2 wide angle close focus it says on the marking that it is "c/fd" I assumed it is a canon fd mount and I already have an adapter FD to FUJI X but it won't seem to fit. I hope you can help me. I can send you pictures of it but I don't know how. Thank you. I've been struggling for 2 weeks now and already bought 2 wrong adapters that I don't need. :((
If you send a picture, or better three or four from different angles, I might be able to see what the mount is. I say 'might' though, as some mounts look very similar! My email address is zenography11@gmail.com
Zenography hi man! I was able to make it work with the help of another ytber though I really appreciate your reply. Thanks a lot and I’m a fan of your work!
You state in the video that your images are unprocessed (most of the time). Which color profile (I have no clue as to what Sony calls them) is your A7 set to?
Brian McCutcheon The pentax cameras are K mount. You can adapt M42 Russian lenses with no problem. Zenit m39 slr lenses such as the helios 44 need an m39 to m42 adapter ring, then they will fit properly on your m42 adapter. Russian A mount lenses use interchangable adapters, there were a few K mount made, most are m42, a T or T2 mount adapter will work directly on the lens. The rangefinder lenses wont work.
@@zenography7923 I am the only individual not committing that sin. It appears to me everyone else does it on purpose. Like they think it looks cool, like it is considered cool to loosen your helmet's chinstrap, at the expense of added danger.
Most of your videos deal with lenses from a somewhat subjective point of view, notably that vintage lenses with defects provide images that are sometimes more appealing than newer, more accurate lenses. I really like all your creamy, dreamy videos that show us the images that old lenses can provide. But at the beginning of this video you spoke about very concrete things, whether lenses can fit cameras, but you used a lot of fuzzy language like, "I'm pretty sure", "I believe", and "might be". If you don't know the answers, either don't talk about it, or look it up beforehand. Otherwise, no one is well served.
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On Nikon F mount DSLR flange distance is 46.5mm so if you want to use Canon FD/EF 42mm/44mm , Minolta 44.5, m42 45.46mm ,Pentax K 45.5mm or Range finder glass that ain't gone work because the F mount flange is too long. You have to find lenses which fits on even longer flange distance to put adapter in between but then again have to take care that rear lens element of such lens does not protrude in to camera body so you don't hit the element with mirror.I used to use vintage lenses on Sony a99 and that was the best way to adapt glass on SLR. Sony a99 has translucent mirror so it does not move and use also EVF with peaking.
Thanks for the info!
Thank you thank you thank you! Electronis in lenses have created new opportunities for adapting lenses, but many manufactures provjded what was needed. Konica was great about that.
With patience, tools and muscle power and a Nikon BR2 reversing ring, I was able to make a Minolta 250mm mirror lens fit Nikons. Almost but not quite focuses at infinity... for now...
Again, thank,you!
Thank you for sharing your views. I was interested to hear that your images are straight out of the camera. You have shown some beautiful shots in the past. Always a joy to watch. I just purchase a Zorki 6 having watched a recent Episode. It’s has a great feel in the hand. Very pleased with it. The rangefinder tab was I little stiff but eased with a tiny dab of WD40. Works perfectly now.. keep up the great reviews...some of the old lenses are fantastic quality and such good value.
The Zorki 6 is a great little camera, hope you're enjoying it! Rangefinder tabs can seize up if the camera isn't used for a while, especially if the lens is stored retracted towards the body, pushing the tab against spring pressure. Should the WD40 dry out, you may find a - very - tiny drop of motor oil works better as it resists drying to a much greater extent. Happy rangefinding!
Regarding dust, I dry my B and W film in the shower cubicle, roll it up after a couple of hours, put it back in a film canister and then scan using a duplicator lens, if I had dust, I would scan them in the bathroom straight after drying.
The rigid industar 50 rangefinder lens is a zenit slr lens with an adapter tube and rangefinder cam screwed in the back. If you remove the screw holding the tube on, it unscrews. You can then use it to adapt any zenit m39 slr lens to a leica m39 camera. If you remove the cam, the lens can be used on a zenit m39 slr. 2 notes, the tube and cam may have some thread locking compound on them, a little bit of alcohol will loosen it. The cam has a left hand thread, turn clockwise to unscrew.
I didn't realise that, thanks for the tip!
You CAN adapt anything on Nikon because of the short flange distance. With no glass. All you have to is create distance between film and lens.
edit: on Nikon mirrorless cams the flange distance is the shortesþ so you can adapt even sony nex E lenses because there is 2mm space to adapt.
Dslrs might be the opposite
If you can live without infinity focus or you have to focus on short focusing distance you could use lenses on the F mount.
i see. On the z mount you can adapt anything you want. pretty cool
For dust issues I have used an ionizing blow fan over the work area. If you have a source of compressed air you can also use an ionizing blow off nozzle. Neither are very expensive and both work nicely to solve dust issues.
Silver Pan Photo Lab in Bristol does a great job with colour film.
Thanks, that's useful to know!
Actually saying that the flange distance on nikon srls is shorther then most of other sistems is wrong. It's actually longer and, with an adaptor you can "add" flange distance, but you cannot take away it. That's why it's harder to adapt lenses on nikon f mount and others
Yep you are correct.
Yep this video is completely wrong, Nikon F mount has one of the longest back focus distances for DSLR's there is a nice table on Wikipedia that has good list; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
Whoops. I went short instead of long - thanks for the correction!
@@zenography7923 It can happen.....happy shooting!!!
Thank you king, would you please make a video adapting the jupiter 9 automat 85mm to an cannon with a ef lense.
SLR's also have the reflex mirror inside which makes it impossible to mount rangefinder lenses closer to the film plane for proper infinity focus.
Yes, it's just too difficult for a whole bunch of reasons!
I've got a Nikon DSLR, and I use it with vintage lenses. I've bought one of the cheapest Nikon-M42 adaptors (about 10-15 GBP). My Helios 44 works great, but I've got some issues with Zeiss lenses. They can't be focused to infinity, because they hit the lens of the adaptor. Apart from that I can't complain about how they work.
Glad you've had good results with those adaptors - you can't beat a bit of Helios swirl!
I think you reversed your first statement - The Nikon flange sits farther away from the film plane / sensor as compared to most other brands , not closer. The jupiter 12 sits very well adapted to my ricoh gxr leica m module and that is my favorite digital camera other than the Fujifilm x-Pro1.
Whoops, I went short instead of long - thanks for pointing it out!
I've successfully mounted a Jupiter 12 Contax mount to my Sony A7 - with a little trepidation, as you can't tell if the shutter will collide, but it seems to work ok!
So it does mount! Thanks for letting me know!
Love my Pentax ,Takumar lenses on my Pentax cameras
Those Takumars are hard to beat!
Pentax are good for most lenses, especially M42, m39
I have a Nikon D810. With vintage M42 type lenses, you get a very narrow focusing range. Say .7 meters close, to 3 meters on the far side. Frustrating, as hell, but still a workable range for some things like portraits, flowers, etc... Many subjects fall within that range. I often use my Helios on it, whilst working withing those imitations. On the plus side, there are many excellent vintage Nikkor lenses that work brilliantly on it.
Backwards compatibility is one of the best features of Nikon DSLRs, and I really should have mentioned that in the video! Not quite as flexible as some other digital cameras, but there are loads of old Nikon lenses to use - and no need for adaptors either!
@@zenography7923 This morning I broke out the tape measure, and have the actual measurements. :-) Helios 44-2 on Nikon D810:
Close focus: 14 inches (.36 meters)
Far focus: 6 feet (1.8 meters)
So yes, the range is super narrow.
I have been using adapted lenses on several Sony emount cameras for a few years. For the most part I find them easy and fun to use. My wife says that I have too many old slr lenses, but that's not true. I have a beautiful old Konica 35 to 100mm f2.8 that's wonderful although it's big and rather heavy. I've also got several beautiful old Vivitar series 1 lenses in various mounts. Anyway, there are lots of great old lenses available for very reasonable prices. I always watch and enjoy your videos. Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge, I appreciate it.
Too many old SLR lenses? I'm not sure that's possible... :)
Bonjour Nigel,
Mon épouse commence à vous regarder de travers ! Les télémètres russes s'alignent sur mon meuble de salle à manger au-dessus d'une pléthore d'objectifs vintage. Je suis en train d'essayer un Zorkiy (1) j'ai tiré avec 2 Kiev (4 AM et M) ils sont fabuleux. J'attends avec impatience l'arrivée d'un Zorkiy 3M révisé par l'ami Oleg de Russie.Dommage que les frais de douane dépassent la valeur de l'appareil , frais de transport compris. J'ai toujours autant de plaisir à suivre vos "épisodes" Continuez dans cette voie et ne changez rien.
Mes meilleures salutations
Et bonjour Fatpat! Oh mon Dieu, j'espère que je n'ai pas trop dérangé ta femme! On dirait que vous avez de belles caméras là-bas; heureux que vous appréciez la chaîne et merci pour vos aimables remarques!
I’m an Olympus fan but wanted a full frame mirrorless. At the end of a successful and busy 2019 I congratulated myself with a Nikon Z6 kit. No issues at all adapting any slr or rangefinder lenses. However, like you mention absolutely no luck at all adapting to my D700 or D800. The adapters I’ve tried with the elements to correct for Nikon flange distance are unreliable and are usually fitted with a low quality plastic element at that. Had I known that I’d mostly be using this Z6 as a host for vintage lenses, I would have saved an imperial assload of money and probably bought a first generation Sony A7 instead. Which as it turns out would have been handy considering how my and everyone else’s income evaporated due to the planetary funk that shall not be mentioned. Thanks for another great production my friend. Stay safe.
Ah yes, the planetary funk... I do hope the work's starting up again now Jeff, it can't be too long away! I guess one compensation with the Nikon DSLRs is that they'll mount all the old Nikon glass, without any tedious mucking about with adaptors! Every cloud, eh? Those plastic element adaptors sound awful though...
Those focus heliodes are a pain to get back together, sometimes you even get the fun of realigning them. I oftern get lenses with fungus, there's a risk but most of the time the repair will be a sucess.
I have a Canon 1000D, an EOS EF-S mount camera and I can use most vintage lenses with an adaptor. There are some that you can't though so it's worth checking. Oddly, Canon FD lenses don't work. But all the most common types are fine.
Exactly, that's the reason why I still prefer to buy lenses with Nikkor F mount. They can be used on every other body, and of course also Nikon cameras. There is one exception. The Nikon 24/3.5 T&S can be mounted on every mirrorless camera, but you can't change the aperture. I have one, and instead I have also bought the Canon 24/3.5 T&S. That one can be used on every mirrorless camera and the aperture can be changed. By the way, I always search for bargains, that's why I have so many lenses and other stuff. The best way to invest money. Remember I bought a black Contax T3 for $ 270. Sold a week later for $ 450. The prices for those nowadays is near $ 2000.
Reason why I'm a m43 shooter is the Metabones Speedbooster for Nikkor to m43.. I gain one stop, and 0,71 magnification. I also got an Olympus OM to m43 Speedbooster for a nice price.
There are bargains to be found out there with patience - as you have shown! I ought to have mentioned in the video that an advantage of Nikon DSLRs is that backwards compatibility with all that lovely old Nikon glass - without the need for adaptors! Definitely a plus point!
@@zenography7923 Best of all, many old (Nikkor) lenses cover the Fuji GFX MF format.
Since you adapt all these vintage lenses to your Sony full frame mirrorless camera, I wonder if you could please comment about the lens adapters you have chosen to use? Is there a brand of adapter that you think provides the best results? Have you experimented with multiple lens adapter brands and which do you use? I personally adapt my glass to a Fuji X-mount mirrorless camera and have K&F Concept adapters for my Nikon and Canon FD lenses. I went with cheaper Fotasy adapters for Minolta MD, M39, and M42 lenses. Below is a link to a video from the channel "Andrew and Denae" where they compared a bunch of different brands of dumb lens adapters using the same lens and same camera. They looked at the impact of the adapter brand on the final images. Some were definitely better than others. The big caveat here was that they only looked at one copy of any particular lens adapter, so there is no accounting for variation within the same adapter brand. I thought you might enjoy. Thanks.
th-cam.com/video/7EUs-SUnPMs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, that's an interesting video. I must admit, I only ever use the cheapest 'dumb' adaptors and haven't had any problems with them. Occasionally one might focus a bit past infinity, but that's no real disadvantage.
There is one mount ring you can buy for OM to adapt to Nikon body.. You swap the mount. Doesn't work for all OM mount lenses.. The ring is a little expensive 15 Euro
Ever since discovering your channel, I'm becoming increasingly interested in shooting with vintage glass. With the information from your channel, I have since managed to obtain a Helios 44M-4 (I think a much later multi-coated version), Super-Takumar 55mm, F.2, and Super Takumar 135mm F3.5. All for peanuts and in good condition. I'm particularly impressed with the build quality and image quality of the Super-Takumars I have, especially when shooting B&W pictures. There's something to it, I can't quite define or explain what it is (a certain character/feel to the pictures perhaps), that I like about the images from the Takumars in particular.
You just can't beat a good Takumar! Remember though that many are slightly radioactive - in my (and many others') opinion safe for everyday use, but never hold one to your eye, or any other delicate spots come to that!
Zenography copy that! My 55mm F.2 is radio active for sure. The yellow-ish coating seems to give it away. I’m not convinced my 135mm is radio active. No yellow coatings, and from what I’ve been able to gather, there’s a radio-active version and a (later?) version with non radio active coatings.
I’d really like to see a video from you of servicing the Helios lens. New sub here really enjoy your channel. It’s nice to not be yelled at
th-cam.com/video/PnTEJIIcerI/w-d-xo.html
I made a video on cleaning oil from the aperture blades of a Helios 44 - it covers removal of the glass and cleaning the blades, but not separating the barrel - it might cover much of what you need: th-cam.com/video/PnTEJIIcerI/w-d-xo.html
Zenography great to know thank you!
Nikon DSLR can use DKL mount lens like Voigtländer and Schneider-Kreuznach lenses, other than DKL lenses, you may not able to focus to infinity or you may need a correction lens inside the adapter mount, but will infect the image quality quite a lot
I didn't realise that, thanks for the info!
@@zenography7923 one more thing, the sensor crop ratio will not affect the minimum focus distance, fucus distance vary by sensor and lens element distance, unless using an adapter changing flange distance, the mdf will be the same, and sensor size will only affects how much image you can capture from the lens focal plane, only magnification ratio will change by different sensor size.
I bought a Helios 44-2 58mm F2 from Retro Photo House for Nikon F mount. It is basically M42 on the lens and a very thin adapter to Nikon F mount. I think the lens, on a lathe, is ground down a little. Reassembled and screws into Nikon F mount via M42 adapter. I get infinity focus without any lens in the adapter.
Oh, that's good to know, so there's enough metal on the Helios that it can stand a little machining to get the right dimensions. And I would imagine others can be adapted in the same way too?
@@zenography7923 I saw a video somewhere about this a few guys have done this to vintage lenses. Kind of like a camera repair guy that takes lenses apart for cleaning and/or modifications. Retro Foto House has also added auto focus to Helios 44-2 58mm for Nikon F body by disassembling a Nikon 50mm AF lens and adding the AF part to back of machined Helios. Infinity focus without a glass adapter.
The first bit had me scratching my head, that's gonna confuse someone. Lol. so I'd thought I'd drop my answer in here, Nikon flange distance 46.5mm. m42 lenses 45.46mm , 1 mm difference + a little bit for a simple sub £5 adapter, looses infinity as the focus range is pulled closer, RF lenses on SLR become macro with a 42 39 ring.
Going the other way around goodness knows why, M42 lens to m39 helicoid adapters exist, would need calibration to infinity with scotch tape on B setting, and then focus with lens marking ,stoped down a bit to help.
I have a question for a future video , what's your most expensive photography mistake, mine are when I was 15 giving away a rolliflex TLR I got for peanuts from a junk shop,
And more recently doing a full spectrum conversion on a canon DSLR.
Hello very informative video, i’m curious as to which brand adapter i should get for my Sony A7?
Jupiter 12 is ok on Sony alpha. I found problebatic to mount collapsible lenses (elmar, industar ...).
The only collapsible lens that will collapse safely on my Sony A7 is the 1938 uncoated Fed 10. My Summitar would hit the sensor, as would the Industar 22 and 50! Approach with extreme caution!
alessandrozzi tech
Glassless adapters which focus to infinity are available for M42 lenses on Pentax K and Minolta MD mount bodies.
I find myself just like you, shooting only in Black and White, developing myself and scanning them on my own.... I have three rolls of color film to develop and I am not sure where to take them.... such a shame! What can you tell about a Rollei SL35? I have the german model with a carls Zeiss Planar 1.8 50mm. Cannot find much content about it.
Hmm, I can't find much information on this camera either, although the lens sounds lovely! This search: www.google.com/search?q=rollei+sl35&oq=rollei+sl35&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l7.7268j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
brings up some information, though you may already have seen much of it?
I haven't shot with the Rollei SL35 but have used that lens on digital. Though its probably labelled Rollei HFT planar 50mm 1.8 and not Zeiss as Zeiss had supposedly given up that design to Rollei and voigtlander (rebranded as voigtlander color-ultron 50mm 1.8). It is a beautiful lens with punchy saturated colors on the warm side. It is a 7elements/6groups design, but the closest lens with similar rendering I find is the zeiss pancolar 50mm 1.8 (though it is a 6elements/4groups design with a lovely 33cms minimal focus distance.
Another interesting video from Z. Keep promoting the use of vintage lenses, it's proper recycling. If you get the opportunity try the Konica Hexanon 40mm F1.8. It's an absolute peach, tiny even with a dumb adapter on digital. Fast, lovely colours but best of all is the dreamy bokeh. Bucket loads of the stuff, almost as if you've just woken up and are trying to focus on the world around you. I love my Russian lenses, Pentax and Zuiko lenses, but the Konica is just so lovely. They are inexpensive but definitely not cheap.
I've heard a lot of good things about this lens, and after using the Voigtlander Nokton 40mm I really like the 40mm length for street work. I haven't been able to find any 40mm Hexars though,, they seem to be rather rare!
@@zenography7923 Hello, I'd be happy to loan you the lens if you'd like to try it.
Jupiter 12 does indeed have a very protruding rear element, but I have one that fits on my Sony A7 without touching the sensor (though I think some variants have different clearances, so care is needed). It produces bad blur at the edges, though, presumably due to the different surface of the sensor rather than the film it was designed for - it's fine on a film camera. And talking of mounting vintage lenses on a DSLR, I've found it largely pointless - I have adapters for my Canon, but the lack of any focusing aid makes it a serious pain. I definitely stick to mirrorless for vintage lenses - A7, and Lumix m4/3. And, of course, you can get all the adapters you need for SLR and RF lenses on mirrorless cameras :-) And finally, on colour developing - I still miss Kodachrome :-(
If there's one film stock I wish hadn't disappeared, it's Kodachrome - and there's no real replacement for it either! As for manual focusing with DSLRs, yes, it's tricky! I recently shot my Nikon FE and Olympus OM2 and marvelled at how easy they were to focus! Better even than focus peaking, in my view! If only manufacturers would include such a system on DSLRs!
@@zenography7923 Oh, definitely, the old SLR split-image prism was the best - OM2 user myself too. It makes it easy to, say, focus slightly front of something, then slightly behind, and see what works best. Speaking of Kodachrome, I found an exposed roll here long after the last lab had closed, and I thought I had nothing to lose by trying to develop it as black and white - and the results were really good (if a bit contrasty). Turns out it was a roll I shot in Limerick in around 1986.
I like your fireside chat, reminds me of out of town with Jack hargreaves.
Now that is a compliment indeed! Thanks!
Wow, Jack Hargreaves ! Was that the series where he used to be sitting in a shed talking about the countryside? Also, Bygones by Dick Joyce. Similarly delightful old world TV. Ted Ellis on Look East looking at the countryside. That kind of charm seems to be absent from TV. Glad that its alive here on this channel.
Olympus EM10, great M43 to mount vintage lenses.
Got an EM10 mark ii and once I started to use my old OM system lenses on them with an adaptor, the fun really started. They are some of the most beautifully crafted things I have ever used.
@@davebellamy4867 I believe you! On my side, I mostly use FD mount lenses on my E-M10. I have a speed booster, which degrades the image quality a little bit due to the added piece of glass BUT, which reduces the crop factor. Hence, my FD 50mm, f1.4 behaves like a 70mm instead of a 100mm.
I use three places here in the UK to get my film developed. Photo Hippo in Burnley is a great place for getting film developed, they take great care of your film. Another great place is Nik & Trick in Folkstone, I buy my Vision 3 from there and send it back to them for developing. I also use my lical Max Spielmann photo store here in Wigan, the staff there have looked after me since I returned to film photography in 2017.
That's useful to know, thank you!
@@zenography7923 I'm happy to share info with you. All three have kept film developing going since the advent of the digital revolution. Film refuses to die! It's been a tough market at times, but film still has a place in the 21st century.
Thanks for sharing legacy lenses. Could you do Rollei QBM lenses reviews. Rollei, Zeiss and Voightlander lenses.
Thanks for the suggestion!
There are several labs in the US that do a great job. I've never had an issue with C41 processing at my local camera shop (Robert's in Indianapolis). For anything other than C41, I send to Dwayne's in Parsons, KS.
For printing personal snapshots, I rely again on my local camera shop (Robert's in Indianapolis). For client, gallery, or competition prints, I send to American Color Imaging in Cedar Falls, IA. Their prints always look incredible.
Two things about film. I have really enjoyed how easy the Cinestill C41 kit makes color developing. I also let my negatives dry in a room with an exhaust hood, and that has seemed to work at keeping dust off them as they dry. I admit though that I only started developing film because it's hard to find and expensive to develop it anywhere else.
I hadn't heard of that kit, but I'd be interested to give it a try! Cinestill is one of my favourite film stocks too. Dust has been a major problem for me, but at the scanning rather than the drying stage - I think static electricity may have something to do with it, however, a simple blower gets most of it - if I'm quick!
I don’t know if they’re still
made but the used to make electrostatic brushes for cleaning slides/negs.
You have this inverted in the beginning (afterwards you find back to your senses. HA!). The flange distance of the Nikon is longer than most other cameras (with the exception of Leica R and Praktina, I think, but the Leica lenses are expensive and the Praktina lenses are rare as the cameras and the lenses typically extend quite far into the body, potentially creating a conflict with the mirror if adapted). Hence any spacing added by the adapter stuck onto the Nikon F-mount leads to a (increasing) loss of infinity focus (they wouldn't have infinity even if mounted flush on the mount).
This could be averted by a.) professionally adapting the whole lens (exchanging the rear part of the lens body), which is quite costly, or b.) for some lenses whose mount is small enough in diameter that they can be stuck "into" the Nikon mount without creating a conflict with the mirror.
In any case, generally not advisable and therefore best to adapt to mirrorless, which have very short flange distances.
Whoops, I went short instead of long, thanks for pointing it out!
Very enjoyable! And Congrats!
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
nice video and very informative.
Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
AG photolab in Birmingham is also excellent for all colour and B&W work.
Ah, thanks, that's good to know!
The Jupiter-12 fits on my Sony A7. You need to crop approx 5% of the image due some dark corners and the sharpness at the the edges is very poor. But the center is sharp and the color rendering absolutely great. I am loving it. This lens is very tiny (even with the M39 adapter) and looks/works great on my Sony A7 :-)
Ah, thanks for letting me know!
@Zenography. Thank you so much for all your videos,. Have a question about rangefinder lenses, Currently have a Jupiter 8 that I use on my Leica M6 and love it. Now I would like to find 2 lenses for the 39mm crew mount that I use on the Mount adapter, would like to have a wider lens , ideally 28mm or 35mm, also like to have a longer lens then the 50mm Jupiter 8. Any recommendations? Thx.
If you want to stick with fsu optics, the Orion 16 28mm is a wide option, the Jupiter 9 85mm f2 is really nice, as is the Jupiter 11 135mm f4 (though that one's a bit slow).
@@zenography7923 Thank you so much, will have a look.
The cheaper lenses on eBay are one where they don't know what the camera mount is.but maybe it.s possible to tell from the photos of the lens back
It's often not so easy to identify a mount from a photograph...
Can you please help with this mount? I bought it seller has no clue!! I thought it was PK but not so sure....thanks your help....
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Paragon-PMC-II-Auto-1-2-8-f-52mm-/174296208448?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Thanks for my most fav photo channel on YT. Would it be possible to compare Sonnar T* FE 55mm F1.8 ZA with Canon FD 50mm F1.4?
I have the Canon FD 1.4 and like it a lot - one of my favourite lenses. If a Sonnar T 55 comes my way someday, I'd be glad to compare them!
First thank you a lot for sharing all your experience in vintage photo stuff and all your advices.
I'd like to clean an old Tair3s lenses because there are stains on optics part. Can you advice me a cleaning solvent to not degraded the optic and succed to remove oil or other stains safely on this vintage lens?
Thank you again
I find a 50-50 mixture of vinegar and water will shift most things, and a dilute solution of detergent will shift stubborn oil or grease. Be very, very careful though - wipe very gently and as little as possible, or you may damage the coatings!
Why not process your own colour film? C41 is not difficult to do and quicker than many black and white developers due to the higher temperature. I’m old enough to have used the previous C22 process in the early ‘70s.
You can adapt almost any vintage lens onto Canon EOS body, both film and digital. Except Canon's own FD lenses, weirdly enough, course of different flange distance. Now focussing with those lenses is a whole different matter. If you are using a film EOS camera or an older digital model, you can easily find adapter with electronics that enables you focus confirmation. That was quite cool and course back in the day when Canon 5DmkII with video function was introduced that was quite helpful, course auto focussing via live view / while filming a video was quite terrible if existent at all. SO everybody used vintage lenses at that time on modern canon cameras, old Nikon Ai / Ais and M42 lenses in particular.
Now somewhere durning production time of 5DmkIII Canon made a change in firmwares on all cameras that prevents the usage of such adapters, and given that Canon declined to give their users ability of focus peaking on their DSLR cameras, focusing vintage lenses is harder than ever. Unless, as I said, if you have a EOS film or older digital camera...
Gosh, that can't have pleased the large numbers of film makers who bought into the Canon system! I wonder if there's a third party hack (magic lantern or something similar) to get around this?
@@zenography7923 Magic Lantern, yes, that also adds focus peaking (what's simply wonderful) but that can (but yet agin may not) burn the processor in your Canon camera. Now if you got the camera cheap enough what makes it worth the risk, I'll say go for it...
I have clear the Jupiter-12 from the a7 series sensor but the purple vignetting on FF mode is very bad.
Hmm, I didn't notice that when I (brifely) tested the J12 - perhaps it doesn't suit a digital sensor?
Hi sir, is there an adapter for Pentax K lenses to older Olympus DSLR body?
Q. Does the DOF for any given aperture remain the same for a lens of a given focal length on a smaller aperture camera? That is, does the DOF of a 50mm lens at f2.8 remain the same on a APS/C as it would be on full frame?
Thank you.
No, you gain effective DOF with a smaller sensor. The great benefit of a full frame camera is a more blurry background for the same aperture setting. Great for portraits but I moved from APSC to FF a few months ago, took me a while to adjust to having less of a range in focus, back to my film days of 20 years ago :-)
I shoot both FF and APSC (Nikon and Fuji) As far as shallow DOF, you lose just a bit. One stop at most, probably less than that, could even be half a stop. An f/1.6 or f/1.7 on an APSC is more or less equal to an f/2 on FF. Not a big deal to me. If shallow DOF is your thing, just buy faster lenses if using APSC.
Well is you stay on a same place the DOF will be same for FF, apsc and m4/3 only crop of the image will be different. If you re-frame your image then you will have to move back to get same image on a FF and D.O.F will be different. DOF is not determine by the size of the sensor but distance between focus plane and subject (closer you are more shallow depth of field will be) with respect to the background, focal length and aperture. The difference in D.O.F between apsc and FF is not so big so it come to the question what for the camera and lens will be used.
I am watching a hannimex 135mm Tele lens on eBay listed for 99p start but they said it's new Which it can't be.but looks in vgh No camera mount mentioned and cannot tell from the photos. I don't know but I think people inheri lenses & just list them on eBay
It might be new old stock, but difficult to tell the mount from pictures - unless it’s an m42 screw mount of course!
Can i adapt a Voigtlander Nokton 17.5mm f.95 m43 lens to a sony e mount camera?
Sony E is 18mm and m4/3 is 19.25mm so you can adapt if you have a thin ring adapter from e.g Fotodiox. Be aware that you might need to crop image since lens projection circuit is made to cover m4/3 sensor and not apsc.
I use my Mamiya 645 and Pentacon 6 Lenses on Nikon F .
I've heard good things about both those lenses. Is there an off the shelf adaptor, or did you find your own solution to mounting?
@@zenography7923 You get a adaptor Pentacon 6 to Nikon F for 20€ , and from Mamiya 645 to Nikon F for 50€. iI Use it analog with F90X and FM. And digital with Nikon D200 and with shift adaptor Nikon F to Sony E and mft.
I would love to see more Russian lens videos. Please do one on the MIR line of lenses.
The Mir (37mm) is a beautiful lens - had one years ago but sadly sold it! When I get some more I'll certainly review them though!
Hi Good People😊 I wonder if someone could help me a bit. I have managed to find locally great condition canon fd lenses. I’ve used k&f fd to m43 adapter with my gx80(my first camera, had it for few weeks). But sadly I ran into some problems. When I use those fd lens(50mm f2), I get black image if I use fairly normal shutter speed(1.25). Only way to get picture is to increase to use long shutter abd high iso. Which basically it makes impossible to shoot from hand. Can someone explain what I’m doing wrong?
If the lens is properly attached to the camera, the only possible reason for what you describe is that something's blocking the light between the lens and the sensor. On most adaptors, Canon FD lenses are very tricky to mount correctly - you have to line the pin up right or the aperture will not open fully. Make sure the aperture opens up fully with the lens mounted - if it won't, then mount the lens to the adaptor again!
@@zenography7923 It was the case of tricky mounting lens to adaptor
No problems with Pentax.
Nope shorter flange distance then Nikon.All m42 lenses will fit on Pentax K with adapter.I would recommend to use original Pentax adapter and not cheap knock off.
Vintage Pentax PK fit lenses have an aperture lug at back. To fit my Canon EOS full frame bodies I chop this off with sidecutters so it doesn't foul the mirror. I also file the sharp edges off but holding lens back downwards so no shrapnel goes inside lens. Sounds a bit drastic but it allows you to use a whole range of lovely Pentax SMC lenses.
t-mount and m42 mount are same? can we mount m42 lens on t or t2 adapter?
No, they're not the same - the pitch of the thread is different, and if interchanged, the threads on both the lens and the camera will be damaged. Don't do it!
Hello! I would like to ask for help. I shoot using fujifilm xt2 with vintage lenses and I recently purchased a vintage lens but I don't know which adapter will I need. Is there a way that I can show you my lens?
The lens I bought is Vivitar 28mm f2 wide angle close focus
it says on the marking that it is "c/fd" I assumed it is a canon fd mount and I already have an adapter FD to FUJI X but it won't seem to fit. I hope you can help me. I can send you pictures of it but I don't know how. Thank you. I've been struggling for 2 weeks now and already bought 2 wrong adapters that I don't need. :((
If you send a picture, or better three or four from different angles, I might be able to see what the mount is. I say 'might' though, as some mounts look very similar! My email address is zenography11@gmail.com
Zenography hi man! I was able to make it work with the help of another ytber though I really appreciate your reply. Thanks a lot and I’m a fan of your work!
How good or bad its the sigma plantel 2.8/135mm (M42 mounted) I just waiting the delivery, thanks in advance
I haven't used that one I'm afraid so I can't comment - but if you like the images it makes, then it's a good lens!
@@zenography7923 very clever answer indeed... Many thanks
You state in the video that your images are unprocessed (most of the time). Which color profile (I have no clue as to what Sony calls them) is your A7 set to?
I usually use the 'vivid' setting.
Thank you!
I use vintage lens on my Pentax K1 K5 K12D no problem except for Russian lens
Brian McCutcheon The pentax cameras are K mount. You can adapt M42 Russian lenses with no problem. Zenit m39 slr lenses such as the helios 44 need an m39 to m42 adapter ring, then they will fit properly on your m42 adapter. Russian A mount lenses use interchangable adapters, there were a few K mount made, most are m42, a T or T2 mount adapter will work directly on the lens. The rangefinder lenses wont work.
2:47 - sin of death... litterally!
?
@@zenography7923 I am the only individual not committing that sin. It appears to me everyone else does it on purpose. Like they think it looks cool, like it is considered cool to loosen your helmet's chinstrap, at the expense of added danger.
Most of your videos deal with lenses from a somewhat subjective point of view, notably that vintage lenses with defects provide images that are sometimes more appealing than newer, more accurate lenses. I really like all your creamy, dreamy videos that show us the images that old lenses can provide. But at the beginning of this video you spoke about very concrete things, whether lenses can fit cameras, but you used a lot of fuzzy language like, "I'm pretty sure", "I believe", and "might be". If you don't know the answers, either don't talk about it, or look it up beforehand. Otherwise, no one is well served.
The cheaper lenses on eBay are one where they don't know what the camera mount is.but maybe it.s possible to tell from the photos of the lens back
Not too easy if it’s a bayonet mount...