I just got one of these cameras. On mine, If I use the "T" mode as shown in this video (end the exposure by using the rewind lever), I get stuck with the mirror locked up! This leaves me unable to compose the next shot as I cannot see anything throught the viewfinder, and I have to sacrifice the next shot to see again. What seems to work better is ending the "T" exposure by turning the shutter dial to anything other than "T". This method allows the mirror to reset, meaning the viewfinder regains compositional functionality. Thank you for these 2 videos on this camera. They have been very helpful to me.
That's a common issue and it means that your mirror return springs are a bit worn. A professional overhaul should be able to fix that. In lieu of "T", you can use the "B" setting and a cable release with a lock.
thanks for the reply. Looks like the CLA that supposedly happened from previous owner didn't address that part of the camera. seems to work fine otherwise. Look forward to putting film through this along with takumar lenses.
I really appreciate your videos. I've just bought this Pentax and am impatiently awaiting its arrival. One small request, which I make to everyone: please get rid of the music. It's distracting and pointless.
My camera's view finder was normal including the whole blur affect dial. My brother messed with the camera and now the view finder is black, but if you angle the camera you can catch a glimpse of what it is supposed to look like. How do I get the camera to the original state?
@@anastasiyahess7398 To firing it at the fastest shutter speed. If the mirrors pops down then the issue is some thick lubricating oil in the mechanism. It's very common with these and affects the super shutter speeds. Also very easy to fix but it needs a professional repair too clean the thick oils out. Most likely it's nothing your brother did, just a common issue with older cameras.
11:46 When mine arrives, I am strongly considering shooting a number of consecutive frames at the hidden speed under appropriate lighting conditions for 1/1000 (as determined by test exposures on a K-5), and seeing just what happens overall and from frame to frame. I might then rewind the film, put it in one of my Spotmatics, advance well past the test point in a darkbag, and thus repeat the experiment with the same film and lens on a different body. All the exposures will get the same treatment under digitisation and post-processing, enabling me to test for consistency if nothing else. I will report findings when I have time.
Not a stupid question at all. That's the flash sync speed. X stands for Xenon, which is the type of bulb in flashes. That's the FASTEST speed at which the flash can be used. It can also be used at slower speeds.
Hi David. great video! I picked up a very similar SV model this morning and this was helpful. I was testing the operation (w/o film) and advanced the lever, but the shutter release does nothing. Any thoughts? Otherwise the camera is very clean and looks in good condition. somewhat related question, it looks like the the way the way the advancing mechanism works that you couldn't do multiple exposures with these? Thanks
+Mike Steinhoff Thank you! So let's answer your easy question first, yes, multiple exposures are possible. They're fiddly, but possible. To do a multiple exposure, calculate your exposures, tighten up the film slack with the rewind knob, and take the first frame. Hold the film rewind button down and hold the film rewind knob while advancing the film. Take the second frame, repeat as needed. Afterward, cap the lens, stop down to f/16 or 22, and set the shutter to 1/1,000th and take a dead frame. The film won't advance immediately when you advance after your last exposure on the frame, so you need the dead frame to prevent image overlap. As for the shutter question, when you press the shutter button does it have no resistance at all? Or does it trigger a shutter speed that, at any speed setting, is just the two shutter curtains moving together with no gap?
Hello David, when you loading the film in the camera, do you have to roll the film all the way in just like when you taking a new picture or just lightly roll it in so the red spot (ready for shoot) will not appear?
With this camera you'll want to get the film leader into the take-up spool and then advance the shutter at least a full advance to make sure it's being taken up.
THis might be a super dumb question, and I don’t know if you will even see this, but does this camera have a battery? I can’t find any information on it
Thank you for this video David, I have just purchased from ebay an H1a, in pretty good condition considering its age, the seals need replacing and I'm waiting for my new seal foam to arrive in a few days... How would you replace the mirror foam? looks like there are two pieces of foam either side, behind a thin metal plate which does hinder you easily getting to the foam to clean it. I've also ordered some angles tweezers to hopefully make life a bit easier... Regards.
Thank you, Lee. So for light seals I don't use foam. I use cotton yarn. I have a video on my channel showing how to replace light seals with black cotton yarn.
Thank you for the reply, I should of really placed the last part of my message at the beginning, that's my main problem. Any ideas on how to replace the mirror foam dampers?
Just found a very helpful video showing the removal of the front of the body, looks like the only way to get to the mirror damper is this method. Obviously I will be using foam for this and not yarn, I don't think yarn would work very well for mirror dampers?
@@ljjonesy the mirror cannot can be reached without removing the front. For that sticky-back acrylic felt works well, just like foam. But you're right, yarn does not work there.
@@DavidHancock Yes indeedy, that's what my original question to you was about really, not about light seals... I will be getting some felt as well as the foam, I'll give it a good clean first and take it from there, hopefully all will be well :)
Hello, I have the S1a with what appears to be the same lens. I was given it by an elderly relative recently, and have never used a film camera before. The lens is stuck on the mount, but it will rotate almost a full 360, but will not click in, or come off. I presume this also stops the shutter from functioning, as there is nothing through the view finder. I was wondering if you could help, if you need any more information then please ask :D Thanks, Alex
MotionCubed Well, hmm. That sounds like there may be a few issues going on. 1- The lens is an M42 mount, so it should unscrew (lefty loosey) fairly easily. If it's not unscrewing (it takes a few full rotations), then there's something bizarre going on with that. 2- As for the viewfinder darkness, that sounds like the mirror is locked up. Do the shutter and film advance lever operate? Also, are you interested in having the camera repaired, overhauled, and brought back to near-factory-spec condition? If so, I can suggest a source. It sounds like this camera may need an overhaul to work properly.
MotionCubed It sounds like it needs a repair. In all probability, the internal oils that lubricate the system have broken down and turned gummy or solid. As for the lens, hopefully it isn't cross-threaded. It may just be stuck on with age. I use www.pentaxs.com for my Pentax repairs. Eric repaired the S1A in my video, and it had a similar issue with the shutter.
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Where is the film rewind button
The film rewind section in this video should show that but if it doesn't the first video covers every button on the camera.
I just got one of these cameras. On mine, If I use the "T" mode as shown in this video (end the exposure by using the rewind lever), I get stuck with the mirror locked up! This leaves me unable to compose the next shot as I cannot see anything throught the viewfinder, and I have to sacrifice the next shot to see again. What seems to work better is ending the "T" exposure by turning the shutter dial to anything other than "T". This method allows the mirror to reset, meaning the viewfinder regains compositional functionality.
Thank you for these 2 videos on this camera. They have been very helpful to me.
That's a common issue and it means that your mirror return springs are a bit worn. A professional overhaul should be able to fix that. In lieu of "T", you can use the "B" setting and a cable release with a lock.
thanks for the reply. Looks like the CLA that supposedly happened from previous owner didn't address that part of the camera. seems to work fine otherwise. Look forward to putting film through this along with takumar lenses.
I really appreciate your videos. I've just bought this Pentax and am impatiently awaiting its arrival. One small request, which I make to everyone: please get rid of the music. It's distracting and pointless.
Thank you. And the videos from the last year or 18 months do not have music.
My camera's view finder was normal including the whole blur affect dial. My brother messed with the camera and now the view finder is black, but if you angle the camera you can catch a glimpse of what it is supposed to look like.
How do I get the camera to the original state?
If you remove the lens, is the mirror stuck upwards?
@@DavidHancock
I Removed the lens and I don't see any mirror. So the mirror is probably stuck.
@@anastasiyahess7398 To firing it at the fastest shutter speed. If the mirrors pops down then the issue is some thick lubricating oil in the mechanism. It's very common with these and affects the super shutter speeds. Also very easy to fix but it needs a professional repair too clean the thick oils out. Most likely it's nothing your brother did, just a common issue with older cameras.
@@DavidHancock
Thank you for helping me out! ill be sure to find someone that can do the job.
11:46 When mine arrives, I am strongly considering shooting a number of consecutive frames at the hidden speed under appropriate lighting conditions for 1/1000 (as determined by test exposures on a K-5), and seeing just what happens overall and from frame to frame. I might then rewind the film, put it in one of my Spotmatics, advance well past the test point in a darkbag, and thus repeat the experiment with the same film and lens on a different body. All the exposures will get the same treatment under digitisation and post-processing, enabling me to test for consistency if nothing else. I will report findings when I have time.
Just noticed - Part One of this two-parter is right at the top of the sidebar suggestions, yet, doesn't seem visible in the playlist.
I'll check into it. I might have accidentally forgotten it in the playlist.
I don’t know if this is stupid question but what is the X on the shutter speed for?
Not a stupid question at all. That's the flash sync speed. X stands for Xenon, which is the type of bulb in flashes. That's the FASTEST speed at which the flash can be used. It can also be used at slower speeds.
Hi David. great video! I picked up a very similar SV model this morning and this was helpful. I was testing the operation (w/o film) and advanced the lever, but the shutter release does nothing. Any thoughts? Otherwise the camera is very clean and looks in good condition.
somewhat related question, it looks like the the way the way the advancing mechanism works that you couldn't do multiple exposures with these?
Thanks
+Mike Steinhoff Thank you!
So let's answer your easy question first, yes, multiple exposures are possible. They're fiddly, but possible. To do a multiple exposure, calculate your exposures, tighten up the film slack with the rewind knob, and take the first frame. Hold the film rewind button down and hold the film rewind knob while advancing the film. Take the second frame, repeat as needed. Afterward, cap the lens, stop down to f/16 or 22, and set the shutter to 1/1,000th and take a dead frame. The film won't advance immediately when you advance after your last exposure on the frame, so you need the dead frame to prevent image overlap.
As for the shutter question, when you press the shutter button does it have no resistance at all? Or does it trigger a shutter speed that, at any speed setting, is just the two shutter curtains moving together with no gap?
Yay for the first part! it's what's drawing me into film, so that is good to know.
For the second part, no resistance at all in the button
Mike Steinhoff I'd send it to www.pentaxs.com. That sound like a broken part.
thank you so much for the vid! i just picked one up at an estate sale where do i buy film and what kind should i get?
Thank you and any 35mm film will work. If you've never used film, an inexpensive 400 ISO like Ultramax is a good first choice.
Hello David, when you loading the film in the camera, do you have to roll the film all the way in just like when you taking a new picture or just lightly roll it in so the red spot (ready for shoot) will not appear?
With this camera you'll want to get the film leader into the take-up spool and then advance the shutter at least a full advance to make sure it's being taken up.
THis might be a super dumb question, and I don’t know if you will even see this, but does this camera have a battery? I can’t find any information on it
No battery. This is completely mechanical.
Thank you for this video David, I have just purchased from ebay an H1a, in pretty good condition considering its age, the seals need replacing and I'm waiting for my new seal foam to arrive in a few days... How would you replace the mirror foam? looks like there are two pieces of foam either side, behind a thin metal plate which does hinder you easily getting to the foam to clean it. I've also ordered some angles tweezers to hopefully make life a bit easier... Regards.
Thank you, Lee. So for light seals I don't use foam. I use cotton yarn. I have a video on my channel showing how to replace light seals with black cotton yarn.
Thank you for the reply, I should of really placed the last part of my message at the beginning, that's my main problem. Any ideas on how to replace the mirror foam dampers?
Just found a very helpful video showing the removal of the front of the body, looks like the only way to get to the mirror damper is this method. Obviously I will be using foam for this and not yarn, I don't think yarn would work very well for mirror dampers?
@@ljjonesy the mirror cannot can be reached without removing the front. For that sticky-back acrylic felt works well, just like foam. But you're right, yarn does not work there.
@@DavidHancock Yes indeedy, that's what my original question to you was about really, not about light seals... I will be getting some felt as well as the foam, I'll give it a good clean first and take it from there, hopefully all will be well :)
Hello, I have the S1a with what appears to be the same lens. I was given it by an elderly relative recently, and have never used a film camera before.
The lens is stuck on the mount, but it will rotate almost a full 360, but will not click in, or come off. I presume this also stops the shutter from functioning, as there is nothing through the view finder.
I was wondering if you could help, if you need any more information then please ask :D
Thanks, Alex
MotionCubed Well, hmm. That sounds like there may be a few issues going on.
1- The lens is an M42 mount, so it should unscrew (lefty loosey) fairly easily. If it's not unscrewing (it takes a few full rotations), then there's something bizarre going on with that.
2- As for the viewfinder darkness, that sounds like the mirror is locked up. Do the shutter and film advance lever operate?
Also, are you interested in having the camera repaired, overhauled, and brought back to near-factory-spec condition? If so, I can suggest a source. It sounds like this camera may need an overhaul to work properly.
MotionCubed also I have obviously tried turning harder than shown in the video, but it just wont click
MotionCubed It sounds like it needs a repair. In all probability, the internal oils that lubricate the system have broken down and turned gummy or solid. As for the lens, hopefully it isn't cross-threaded. It may just be stuck on with age. I use www.pentaxs.com for my Pentax repairs. Eric repaired the S1A in my video, and it had a similar issue with the shutter.