Understanding a 35MM SLR LIGHT METER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- The light meter in your 35mm SLR is a very useful tool and knowing how to use it will help you to up your photo game when shooting manually! Let's look at an example of a built in light meter on a Canon AT-1 and understand when you should trust it and when you should use your own judgement in order to nail those exposures!
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I am so glad I found this! Not very many people explain meter needles, let alone the canon at-1. Really appreciate it!
Great video. Your pacing, wording, and visuals all make it super easy to understand.
the absolute best video on youtube for this. Thank you!
Thank you for all the helpful explanation! I really love your video, you explained it so clear and easy to understand😊
You are doing an awesome job on this channel! I am surprised that you don't have more subs tbh
5:42 I look forward to that. I originally came to this video to ask about them. Good stuff
Thank you, very informative, simple and direct explanation.
Irecently got into 8mm and super 8 and now Ive picked up my first 35mm cameras and your videos are super helpful to understand and usefull for the people that are just gettng itroduced to these old formats. Thank you for your videos
Thanks, Noah, that was a very clear explanation of how the match needle meter works.
Thx exactly what I was looking for
Dude this is great. I kind of intuitively knew this but your vid helped clarify things. And showed me that there is a little circle on my camera's light meter, I just never noticed it before! Only saw the line moving around
I inherited a Nikon 8008S from my late grandmother. I've always wanted to try photography with a real camera not on my phone. Thank you for all your videos. They are very interesting and i've found myself binging through them lol.
Thanks for great tutorials!
I was finally able to get some batteries for 35mm camera's I've purchased this year and using the internal light meters for each camera is actually confusing. So I always look for videos on your channel and you've pretty much have covered all of the topics I needed help with so far. Thank you.
Great video thank you
your videos are a blessing. you are a blessing
amazing video!!
Thanks for the vid very helpful
From my previous comment (I just started film photography (actually photography in general) last week. I have bought Minolta Hi-Matic AF which is a PNS just for me to get useg to it coz I never ever used my phone for photography or any digital means and doesn't know a single digital. Then after finishing one roll with PNS, I used Zenit TTL for manual experience and I just shoot it to my heart's content only using the focusing part to make sure everything is not blurred. Thanks for this basics that I will try applying this to my shots. ) This is very helpful because the Zenit I have has TTL and it is hard to understand what it is for.
Thanks for useful info! I got a Fujica with not working light meter and tried "Light Meter" app on iPhone, surpassingly the pictures came out very good. Now I'm not worried about cameras with broken meter and don't have carry to much stuff with me
Fayz, have you checked to see if the meter battery needs replacement...that was the issue, on my 35mm camera.
Thanks, You just answered my question(s) about using the light meter inside the camera in conjunction with that indicator with the circle on the end of it... At 2:22 you said that if there is a lot of light the meter reading indicator points to the extreme top of the meter range and in a dark situation, it points to he very bottom of the meter. One way one could resolve this problem is to make sure one purchases the correct ISO of film (100, 200, 400....) for the time of day you are shooting at. It would not make sense to purchase a 400 ISO film (or higher) For daylight photos Nor would it be practical to use the opposite in a dark location.
Subbed man I’ve just bought a canon AE-1 and I really wanna get better at it so far I’ve been a bit hit and miss and very blurry so thank you sir 🙌🙌🙌subbed!
Good, very good video.
I'd love to see you do a video on Super 8 Light Meters which i've found to be quiet the confusing mess online.
yaass!! minolta x700!! haha great video thank you!
thank u !!
Thank you! I just sub
My Olympus OM10 has the same light meter as the Minolta one shown in the video. Could anyone help how to use it? Like there's no needle indicating which is the right exposure, it's just a couple of numbers and a red light.
Set your desired aperture and then match the number that is light up to the shutter speed dial
I have used P&S, SLR's, and Rangefinders. What you say regarding the exposure meter not properly interpreting, for example, a high contrast scene, is very true; especially with the P&S camera's. What sucks is if doesn't have and exposure compensation button. I've also experienced something quite similar using my SLR's. I've taken photos at the beach in A, S, and P modes that were underexposed. The only saving grace is the ability to override the internals and shoot M whole using your own judgement. These fully and partially automated programs are iffy at times. Or at least they appear that way. Lesson learned. For me at least. Some of my better outdoor images were actually taken with my Rangefinder using Sunny 16. Completely manual. Film photography can be fun. But it's sometimes quite the challenge.
Detailed info. : )
Thank you for bringing up a very important subject. Unfortunately the culture of auto everything digital has dumbed down photography to such a degree, that some fundamentals of photography have been lost on at least one generation of ' photographers '. IMHO, the first step in understanding what an exposure meter does is to realise, that a meter interprets a subject as an 18% grey. This is how all meters, no matter how simple or sophisticated have been calibrated. It follows that a dark scene needs more exposure to look like an 18% grey card, and vice versa a light scene needs less exposure. The second step is to understand the pattern of light gathering of the sensor. An average meter just averages the scene as 18% grey. A center weighted meter, places more emphasis on the central portion and less on the surround ( For example, a Nikon F3 is heavily center weighted as opposed to a Nikon FM which is much less so ), a spot meter just reads from the central 10, 5 or 1 degree of the scene. Matrix metering, evaluates different zones and comes up with a value and so on. Once the concept of the 18% grey calibration is understood, it is then a lot easier to decide how much lighter or darker a subject would look with different exposure values.
I have a Minolta maxxum 5 that all those metering modes. I usually leave it in Matrix.
That works fine for most situations. @@robertknight4672
please, discuss the light meter on the Practica MTL 5 camera. I have a hard time reading it, thank you
Can you do a video on the Canon TLB?
I can't see the light metre. Could you explane how to get it up? Nothing through the view finder. Ugh wish I just got a pentax.
If my camera has Aperture check, should I match both needles activating Aperture Check for right exposure?
I totally forgot how the light meter works for slrs. I'm not sure why but I have no two needles for the AE-1. I only have the straight one but not with the circular one for this camera.
late comment, i’m new to photography and i would like to know how to set the correct iso on my Nikon F if possible, my viewfinder is the one with the eye at the top left if that info helps ya’ll help me.
the music background should be slightly low... but hey I loves your video... thanks for the tips
3:15 isn’t it the other way around?
Don’t you move the indicator up to over expose and down to under expose?
I think my konica autoreflex t3 has a pretty interesting light meter. It has a needle that points to the F number it thinks you you should use. (Unless you have it set to automatic in which case you don't have to touch it.)
I have the same camera, what battery do you use for the light meter?
@@viani5943 675 hearing aid batteries, their voltage is close enough to the 1.35v of a mercury battery. However they are not too reliable in terms of voltage, just do a battery check before going out shooting. (Set ASA100 DIN21° remove lens, look through viewfinder and push the power switch to C.) The needle should jump to the red mark (a little bit over or under is fine but not too much.)
Another note is that these batteries generate electricity by reacting with the air, so they come with a pull tab to keep air out, pull that off and leave them for about 1 minute before inseritng into the camera. Also do not peel the tabs on the batteries you don't intend to use immediately since they will start reacting with the air and going bad. Similarly once the tab is peeled the batteries will slowly drain regardless if you use the camera much or not.
Or you can get your camera modified to take 1.5V alkaline batteries but when hearing aid (Zinc air batteries) work fine I don't see the point, at least not since I shoot like one roll through it every month.
@@alfepalfe Thank you so much!! I appreciate it
@@viani5943 No problem, glad I could help.
when aligning the circle thing to the needle, should i adjust aperture first and then shutter speed? Or is it the other way around. Or does this not matter?
It depends, I would adjust shutter speed if your apeture is a priority for the scene.example, headshot you would usually want your lowest apeture. But you don't want you shutter speed to every be too low around 30th as to not induce shake or blur.
A light master is built in a camera . it tell you you need to be right in center. Sometime you need more bright because it darker some time you need lessight because it lighter.
Now does the needle have to always be in the middle, or does the camera get a "perfect exposure" once the needle and ring line up?
It depends on the camera/meter. In the Canon example camera he's showing here it's called a "match needle" system. The needle will move up and down always based on the exposure the meter sees. When you adjust the ring to MATCH the exposure needle, you have the right exposure (according to the meter).
But there are other types that work more like what you're describing, where you want to move the needle until it's between small marked range in the middle (and there is no "match needle" shown)... The Pentax K1000 works this way exactly. So does the Pentax MX (except it uses LED light rather than a needle) and many others. It's known as a basic "over/under exposure" type meter.
@@therealchickentender I'm familiar with the over and under exposed indicators, but does the match needle always have to be in the center of the viewfinder along with the ring? I recently shot and developed a roll I shot with my Canon tx, and they came out great. Photos were well exposed. I asked if the needle and ring always have to meet in the middle of the viewfinder, but I guess my roll proves that as long as the needle and ring are lined up, I'll get a perfect exposure
@@nick044Yup exactly. Center doesn't matter. The meter needle will move where it wants to, up or down. The matching needle just needs to be moved to wherever it is on the scale, doesn't matter if it's in the center or not.
What about AE-1 Program? There isn't a needle and its all made with LED's.
%100 Portakal I think it’s the same thing. It tells you the number of the aperture you’re supposed to use. If you want to overexpose it, you should lower the number. If you want to under expose it you should raise the number higher to the light meter number they give you
MrTbutters621 But what if i want to take a shot on a specific aperture like 1.8?
@@ThermAquaGaming than you should lower the shutter speed if the aperture number is below 1.8
I dint get it there's no light metre. How do I turn it on to check?
Wait so with the Minolta x-700 how do I use the light meter, all I know is it goes up and down
Set your desired aperture and then match the number that is light up in the view finder to the number on the shutter speed dial
my light meter doesnt have the ring-needle. its a canon ae-1. is that a defect or mine just functions in some different way? i understand the red light at the bottom flashes when the light is too low. but nothing happens when its bright? i dont understand how to interpret it.
When all else fails, read your manual!
people.ok.ubc.ca/creative/Manuals/Canon/Canon_AE-1_Manual.pdf
should i do this mach every time im shooting with the same roll of film? cause it changes the mach of the shutter speed and the aperture the camera indicates me to use
As the light changes then the exposure settings need to be changed to match! Using the same shutter speeds and aperture combination across a variety of pictures taken in different lighting won't give you very good results.
@@AnalogResurgence so if i just change the aperture and keep the same shutter speed is it like over/ under exposing the film and will turn out fine?
@@pavlinabaltouma932 You can stick with the same shutter speed and then just change your aperture as the light changes to let in either more or less light! I've talked a little more about these specifics for shutter speed and aperture here as well: th-cam.com/play/PLVVXMHqfPDMHUC5flSnY8AZd61qLTrA1Z.html
@@AnalogResurgence okay thank you so much! wasn t expecting you to actually answer in the first place:)
My Pentax MG don't have this :(
My Aw-1 camera does not have a need with a circle
Okay, but what if I don't have the circle thing? I only see the needle. Is something wrong w my camera?
What kind of camera do you have?
Analog Resurgence canon AV1
@@janabezrukova3390 It works a little differently, the moving needle is still your reference for the light coming into your camera though! This should help: www.petervis.com/Cameras/canon-av-1-manual/canon-av-1-manual.html
Analog Resurgence oh okay, thank you!
Anyone else’s meter flipped?
I don't see an indicator with circle on it.
Hey, good explanation!
You could've used a better camera, though...
(Tell me why I don't like -mondays- Canon)
I didn't know that the AT-1 is a FTb, already.
Monster battery for that itsy bitsy lightmeter BTW.
u look like rex orange county
Damn hipsters.
Damn.
This actually totally wrong
The circle only moves when you move the F stop ring on the lens
The light meter bar moves with
Different lighting
Different ISO settings
Different Shutter speed settings
Ok, maybe it's just me...but! Your voice type and that loud bass line isn't doing it for me, and the worst part is I want to hear what it you are sharing but that bass is too loud!