Are you considering rebuilding your vintage garden tractor engine? You should! iSaveTractors is here to help you every step of the way. Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe to be notified about of our weekly videos! Thank you for saving the tractors!
isavetractors I've got a 1973 wheel horse that runs fine doesn't surge or anything but at low idle it starts to stall out. Nothing is loose springs are in proper place. Any ideas?
spot on and I cant believe anyone wouldn't measure for wear on the crank journal or Cylinder when doing a complete rebuild WOW! ..... hope all is going well Norman good video
You got talent Kid. Explain to people about egging and tapering in an air cooled bore. Some parts of a bore may measure good, other parts won't. Also a Prussian Blue test is a great way to get a true surface on a head.
Thanks for sharing old school tips on engine building on your own. It becomes an addiction to most of us over time..you know what I'm talking about. My father is a real old school mechanic and machine shop owner. He has tools that I had to learn how to use, and not even know what most of them were,,and still learning..Keep it up Norm,,good stuff.
Im 15 and i have a 1973 troybuilt horse woth an old kholer engine on it. The engine is about shot and the ignition system dosnt work. im planing on getting a preditor engine as replacment but im gonna go ahead and rebuild the kholer and get it back working again
Hi Norman thank you so much for this info now i know what to do to fix my mower because i am having trouble keeping the oil pressure up. On my ch740 Kohler oil presser when engine is cold it start at about 30 to 35 psi it still low. Bit pretty soon as it warma uo start decreasing to when it's really warm to around 5 to 10 psi.. So i can only work with it for a few minutes because then it will start losing compression it haa damage my valve intake seats already so now i have to fix and do valve and head job again My question is after watching the video. If i have too much end play or if my crankshaft it's worn out already is that the main reason why i pose oil pressure du to the fact that i check Everything else oil pump etc?
Hey Norman. One other thing to point out that people really take for granted is the cleanliness of the parts. Even new parts should always be thoroughly cleaned especially if the parts in question happen to have oil gallies in them. Blind gallies like on some cam shafts and many cranks on the pressurized lubrication systems are prone to catching and holding lots of grit and material from say previous engine problems aka running it low on oil or a seizure for that matter. It's always wise to remember to clean these parts from the engine oil pumps to blocks and all passage ways! On top of the removal of welch plugs on cams and cranks to get to the blind spots inside them. I've seen so many preventable engine failures due to dirty parts, it's not funny. Especially when it involves something simple like a head gasket or valve cover gasket being replaced. PLEASE take care and your time to clean up the outside of the engine and you won't be allowing the debris from the outside to fall into your open engine parts while you are doing the gasket job. I understand it's a pain in the ass, but a little love in the beginning will save you lots of headaches later on afterwards! Dirt in the crankcase is your engines #1 killer. Plus your engine is air cooled and will run so much cooler by taking all that dirt off it prior, which 9 times out of 10 is WHY your gaskets failed or valve guides failed to begin with due to over heating conditions due to packed in grass and oil vapors from the crankcase breather, or weeping gaskets. Just a quick FYI for everyone out there from a guy who's been in this field for my entire life. Thanks Norman, appreciate the advice to the public. Your not kidding when it comes to "Micrometer Eyes" we call these people. They have super powers unlike any Human I know of LMAO. Have a good night brother and again thanks for posting this educational video.
yeah, i don't like getting inside engines just yet, i started working on mowers n stuff early last year. getting great at it too, but if one thing isn't aligned right, like he said, it could seize up, or worse.. but that is some great information, so thanks for sharing! gave a thumbs up.
Hello.This motor im working on a Kohler 25 year old k series it has new carb which it does still pop just a little but whats throwing me off is i have adjusted the throttle now if i just barely move the throttle position it doesnt take much movement at all to slow it down or speed it up something just doesnt seem right about it and then it tries to over tach when i barely adjust could this be internal gov? going out? Tractor is not mine im just helping someone out but he put carb on it so i dont know how it was running before. Thanks for any help about it. B.
Got a garden tractor with 14 hp kohler guy said he rebuilt 20 years ago and never worked right and parked it pretty much. The only thing he told me was it went wide open throttle the governor wasn’t working. I got engine running at idle but would not idle up. Go a get new carb to solve that since carb is shot. He put std piston and rod in and when I started it it knocked slightly. Figured gotta tear it down didn’t do it right. Yep sure enough cylinder is egg shaped bad so gonna have to bore and buy new piston rod and stuff
ty for the help im rebuilding a k 321a out of a cubcadet 149 one thing im wondering about, does that engine have counter weight gears and if i remove them do i have to adjust the crank balance
Sorry, I prematurely hit the "send" button by accident. A lot of IH Cub Cadet owners have made the decision to remove the balance gears...because they're infamously known as "grenade gears"! Your 321a DOES have them. Most of the ones that remove them have likely done nothing else to them. Check out David Kirk and his "Killer Kohler" . www.kirkengines.com He offers a plate that machine shops can attach to the counter balance on the crank. Among those that choose to simply take those gears out...they argue about how "overbuilt the "K's are, w/ those big crank bearings, and they swear by the practice.
@@kenthawkins2418 yah im wanting to do a full engine rebuild im not sure what i should ask them for at the machine shop i think the engine has never been rebuilt
Great tips man 100 percent right I don't have all the tools anymore but I have gotten lucky a few times doing it with out them but u can tell that's for sure from miss firing n just not running right but this definitely earned a subscription from me keep it up
IsaveTractors. Qustion-- I have a Craftsman Kohler Command. Model number 917.251650. I need a grill for it but Sears says the tractor is too old and they no longer make the part. Any Idea where to get one and also the light assembly.
Ebay, Craigslist and now Facebook ads. Most guys selling parts will have a bunch of parts tractors laying around , you only need to find one guy with a good grille. Thrill of the hunt, I just got a NOS hour meter for my Cub 169 off eBay and a manual for my Deutz 613, been years looking
I rebuilt very crudely mind you a fd590v Kawasaki engine it was run out of oil in the top crank bearing seized I tore it all apart pushed out the crank bearing and rod as they were welded together found a crankshaft on eBay and a new new bearing and put it all back together I can't tell you if anything was scored or if the valves are bad or anyting as I didn't even look put it all back together put some 1550 synthetic oil in it and it runs great I will say about every 200 hours I have a problem with the left side plug fouling out but if you clean the chunk of carbon that gets in there and put it back in it runs good I don't know how old is doing it though it's not burning any oil or doing anything out of the ordinary I switched the coils side for side but haven't had time to run it and see if it changes
I will probably be doing an overhaul on my k 18 in another year or two thanks for the info keep the videos coming. I hope you have a complete rebuild kit for a K 18?
What is the possibility of the valve seats going bad? I'm itching to put my motor back together but after having the block bored and the crank turned I dont want to take shortcuts.
Great video, I’m in the middle of rebuilding a K321 right now and while the cylinder looked great it was out of spec with both taper and out of round. Appearances can be deceiving.
Thanks Norman! I am in the process of rebuilding a Kohler Magnum MV18S (Opposed Twin). HOW would I increase the HP & TORQUE on this engine? Sadly, there are not many people out there with ANY experience with these engines... I have spent HOURS looking, and all I have gathered is that I should do a COMPLETE Valve Job (huh?), And upgrade to a larger Carb (where)... I reside just West of Seattle, Washington and am Very Willing to learn & get dirty with knowledge. What assistance could you give? Many thanks Norman! -Thomas (12) Port Orchard, Washington
Check in with some pulling tractor guys , specifically search Brian Miller Pulling tractor tips on google. He’s like Taryl but loves making competition garden tractors.
3:07 high quality digital calipers are actually pretty good for measuring engine parts. But it HAS to be a high quality model rated for that much precision. They have been make good digital micrometers but have fun trying to measure a bore with those, going to need a bore gauge or high quality calipers.
Problem with calipers is not the precision of the instrument but the precision of the user since it's a slider vs a screw you turn. Wrist movements can lead to inaccurate measurements in certain shapes.
and when you buy your micrometer get a gauge block with it so you can learn how to use it the most common mistake iv seen working in a machine shop is improper use not centering it right or over tightening or dirt or even not understanding how to read it correctly which will lead to inaccurate measurements and its the same with a bore indicator and always check your crankshaft end play
Great advice and I can see how a newbie like myself would skip these steps. My question is how do you measure the cylinder with the micrometer that you showed? It seems you could only measure the piston and that does not seem like the correct measurement. Please help me out here. Again, thanks for the great videos.
To measure the cylinder, you first use a telescoping gauge to transfer the dimensions to use with an outside micrometer. See our how to measure an engine video
Hello Norman , I have a old cast iron small Kohler engine that's complete other that the model number & spec decals are missing . How can I figure out what size this engine is ? It looks like maybe a 5 or 6 hp . Any information would be appreciated.
Measure the bore and go to our website www.isavetractors.com go to resources then service manuals. Download our quick spec sheet. Compare bore size to whats in the chart to determine which engine it is
@@Isavetractors thank you Norman! Going to be rebuilding my JD 110 RF K181 and my JD 140 H3 K321. I'll be ordering both of your engine kits for the rebuild! Thank you
I have a 1970 Wheel Horse Raider 12 with the K301. It's old and tired and at times I hear some knocking sounds in the crankcase usually if I am on a hillside ( I always check oil level before I start it). Some have told me that they are noisy when new. I'm not convinced of that. Should I tear into it this winter or just see if it gets worse? Great video's.
Run it 'till it blows. In the mean time keep your eye out for a complete replacement. Oftentimes you can find a good running engine cheaper than a rebuild. They made tons of the Kohler k-series engines and put them in all kinds of equipment. The Cub Cadet ones are the only one to avoid in your situation because the oil pan/ mounting holes are different than your WH but your style is by far the most common. A k241, k321, k341 will bolt in as well.
If I am working on an engine with a blown head gasket, I usually take the heads to a local machine shop to have them milled so they are guaranteed to be flat. Also, if you prefer to do it yourself with sandpaper, I've heard that it works best to move the head in a figure-8 pattern so that it wears evenly in all directions.
ahhhh slap it together, after cleaning it up, with new parts/seals. new cranks are expensive... if have alum rods, the rods wear/egg shaped more than the crank should. yes ring end gap is important. clean motor is nice. the ones i get are so used as ppl cant check/change the oil ... run them out of oil and so bad need an overbore of .020" but that costs money... so i just dremel out the lip at the top to get piston out, hone out cyl as well as i can, get .010" oversize rings, file the ring gap to what it should be. slap it back together again.. run 20-50 wt oil with 20% STP OIL TREATMENT and write on the gd machine CHECK THE GD OIL BEFORE EACH RUN OF THE DAY... CHANGE OIL EVERY 30-50 hours!!!!! 20-50 OIL w/ STP OIL TREATMENT, 20%
might want to add to next video.... wash the block and parts with hot water and soap... yep.... better do it.. i didnt.. i used brake cleaner.. brand new roll of blue towels. its great clean ... NOT..... if i could post a photo i would... i didnt run the motor long so damage wasnt to bad. i might get lucky with sandpaper clean up.. but yep .... hot soapy water.. told to me by the shop who did my mechane work on the bore and crank. 10 over and 10 under.
By the time you buy all the tools and they must be good ones not tools from harbor freight it comes in cheaper to just bring it to a machine shop that you trust.
So where does a guy take a Kohler engine to be bored or cranks turned? Does anyone actually do it? I checked every place 5 counties wide and not a soul that can do any such work....
Check out our website we have a listing of partners. Any engine machine shop can do these. The ones you want to look for are the ones who do work for heavy machinery engines and not street cars
And who gonna do all this precision work? Costs money. Alot of money. Its not a rocket engine. Doesn't have to be perfect..Cost over 1000.00 to rebuild a 100.00 engine if you take this guys advice. Go buy yourself a new mower imo.
I've helped over 100,000 people so far rebuild their "$100" engines and turned on over a million people to the idea of rebuild vs replace. 😉👍keep saving those tractors folks. P.S. It doesn't cost $1,000 to rebuild these engines.
Are you considering rebuilding your vintage garden tractor engine? You should! iSaveTractors is here to help you every step of the way. Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe to be notified about of our weekly videos! Thank you for saving the tractors!
isavetractors I've got a 1973 wheel horse that runs fine doesn't surge or anything but at low idle it starts to stall out. Nothing is loose springs are in proper place. Any ideas?
You forget to mention to properly torque your cylinder head bolts to factory specs.
For those of us using cave man tools, a piston ring and a set of feeler gauges work well for measuring cylinder taper.
spot on and I cant believe anyone wouldn't measure for wear on the crank journal or Cylinder when doing a complete rebuild WOW! ..... hope all is going well Norman good video
You got talent Kid. Explain to people about egging and tapering in an air cooled bore. Some parts of a bore may measure good, other parts won't. Also a Prussian Blue test is a great way to get a true surface on a head.
Fantastic job on great educational content & for machining micro fractions ,saves people time. Thanks
Thanks for sharing old school tips on engine building on your own. It becomes an addiction to most of us over time..you know what I'm talking about. My father is a real old school mechanic and machine shop owner. He has tools that I had to learn how to use, and not even know what most of them were,,and still learning..Keep it up Norm,,good stuff.
Im 15 and i have a 1973 troybuilt horse woth an old kholer engine on it. The engine is about shot and the ignition system dosnt work. im planing on getting a preditor engine as replacment but im gonna go ahead and rebuild the kholer and get it back working again
Good plan. Kohlers are pretty easy to rebuild, just download a service manual and take your time.
Thanks for the reminders! Been forever since I rebuilt so your video is perfect timing for me to refresh my Kohler M20.
Hi Norman thank you so much for this info now i know what to do to fix my mower because i am having trouble keeping the oil pressure up. On my ch740 Kohler oil presser when engine is cold it start at about 30 to 35 psi it still low. Bit pretty soon as it warma uo start decreasing to when it's really warm to around 5 to 10 psi.. So i can only work with it for a few minutes because then it will start losing compression it haa damage my valve intake seats already so now i have to fix and do valve and head job again
My question is after watching the video. If i have too much end play or if my crankshaft it's worn out already is that the main reason why i pose oil pressure du to the fact that i check Everything else oil pump etc?
Hey Norman. One other thing to point out that people really take for granted is the cleanliness of the parts. Even new parts should always be thoroughly cleaned especially if the parts in question happen to have oil gallies in them. Blind gallies like on some cam shafts and many cranks on the pressurized lubrication systems are prone to catching and holding lots of grit and material from say previous engine problems aka running it low on oil or a seizure for that matter. It's always wise to remember to clean these parts from the engine oil pumps to blocks and all passage ways! On top of the removal of welch plugs on cams and cranks to get to the blind spots inside them. I've seen so many preventable engine failures due to dirty parts, it's not funny. Especially when it involves something simple like a head gasket or valve cover gasket being replaced. PLEASE take care and your time to clean up the outside of the engine and you won't be allowing the debris from the outside to fall into your open engine parts while you are doing the gasket job. I understand it's a pain in the ass, but a little love in the beginning will save you lots of headaches later on afterwards! Dirt in the crankcase is your engines #1 killer. Plus your engine is air cooled and will run so much cooler by taking all that dirt off it prior, which 9 times out of 10 is WHY your gaskets failed or valve guides failed to begin with due to over heating conditions due to packed in grass and oil vapors from the crankcase breather, or weeping gaskets. Just a quick FYI for everyone out there from a guy who's been in this field for my entire life. Thanks Norman, appreciate the advice to the public. Your not kidding when it comes to "Micrometer Eyes" we call these people. They have super powers unlike any Human I know of LMAO. Have a good night brother and again thanks for posting this educational video.
Great Info Norman !!!!!!!!
I made 3 of these mistakes last year. Thanks.😂
Some pretty good tips and will help for sure. Thanks for sharing!!!
yeah, i don't like getting inside engines just yet, i started working on mowers n stuff early last year. getting great at it too, but if one thing isn't aligned right, like he said, it could seize up, or worse.. but that is some great information, so thanks for sharing! gave a thumbs up.
I’m the same way. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it or take it to someone who been inside them before
Very good video. Good Luck, Rick
iam looking for a16hp Magnum aqs for my walker mower. Thanks for Your Vids
Very good Norman. Good Luck, Rick
Hello.This motor im working on a Kohler 25 year old k series it has new carb which it does still pop just a little but whats throwing me off is i have adjusted the throttle now if i just barely move the throttle position it doesnt take much movement at all to slow it down or speed it up something just doesnt seem right about it and then it tries to over tach when i barely adjust could this be internal gov? going out? Tractor is not mine im just helping someone out but he put carb on it so i dont know how it was running before. Thanks for any help about it. B.
Gracias chino Dios te bendiga grandemente excelente información.
Great advice my friend
Great tips, Norman! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, I have to buy to complete rebuild kits this year
Got a garden tractor with 14 hp kohler guy said he rebuilt 20 years ago and never worked right and parked it pretty much. The only thing he told me was it went wide open throttle the governor wasn’t working. I got engine running at idle but would not idle up. Go a get new carb to solve that since carb is shot. He put std piston and rod in and when I started it it knocked slightly. Figured gotta tear it down didn’t do it right. Yep sure enough cylinder is egg shaped bad so gonna have to bore and buy new piston rod and stuff
thanks for sharing the video
Thank you, this was very helpful. I am thinking of rebuilding my Kohler K301 from my Cub Cadet 1250, so this was worth while to watch.
ty for the help im rebuilding a k 321a out of a cubcadet 149
one thing im wondering about, does that engine have counter weight gears and if i remove them do i have to adjust the crank balance
I know that you didn't ask me, but because I have a 149 w/ the same engine, and I've learned what a lot of the owners HAVE
Sorry, I prematurely hit the "send" button by accident.
A lot of IH Cub Cadet owners have made the decision to remove the balance gears...because they're infamously known as "grenade gears"!
Your 321a DOES have them. Most of the ones that remove them have likely done nothing else to them. Check out David Kirk and his "Killer Kohler" .
www.kirkengines.com
He offers a plate that machine shops can attach to the counter balance on the crank. Among those that choose to simply take those gears out...they argue about how "overbuilt the "K's are, w/ those big crank bearings, and they swear by the practice.
@@kenthawkins2418 yah im wanting to do a full engine rebuild im not sure what i should ask them for at the machine shop i think the engine has never been rebuilt
I suggest you check out our article on this subject here: isavetractors.com/articles-1/engine-science-the-balancing-act-of-single-cylinder-engines/
Great video dude, thanks
Very good advise! Yeah, I am guilty of a couple of these, but will do better next time! Thx!
Time spent getting the engine built properly will give you years of trouble free operating time . And a safe and fun tractor to use.
Might be broke and out of money tho.
I’ve got Howard 350 rotator I’m looking for a new shaft and some other parts. Are you able to help please?
K141
Great tips man 100 percent right I don't have all the tools anymore but I have gotten lucky a few times doing it with out them but u can tell that's for sure from miss firing n just not running right but this definitely earned a subscription from me keep it up
IsaveTractors. Qustion-- I have a Craftsman Kohler Command. Model number 917.251650. I need a grill for it but Sears says the tractor is too old and they no longer make the part. Any Idea where to get one and also the light assembly.
Ebay, Craigslist and now Facebook ads. Most guys selling parts will have a bunch of parts tractors laying around , you only need to find one guy with a good grille. Thrill of the hunt, I just got a NOS hour meter for my Cub 169 off eBay and a manual for my Deutz 613, been years looking
I rebuilt very crudely mind you a fd590v Kawasaki engine it was run out of oil in the top crank bearing seized I tore it all apart pushed out the crank bearing and rod as they were welded together found a crankshaft on eBay and a new new bearing and put it all back together I can't tell you if anything was scored or if the valves are bad or anyting as I didn't even look put it all back together put some 1550 synthetic oil in it and it runs great
I will say about every 200 hours I have a problem with the left side plug fouling out but if you clean the chunk of carbon that gets in there and put it back in it runs good I don't know how old is doing it though it's not burning any oil or doing anything out of the ordinary I switched the coils side for side but haven't had time to run it and see if it changes
I will probably be doing an overhaul on my k 18 in another year or two thanks for the info keep the videos coming. I hope you have a complete rebuild kit for a K 18?
What is the possibility of the valve seats going bad? I'm itching to put my motor back together but after having the block bored and the crank turned I dont want to take shortcuts.
It's possible. Have your machine shop recut the seats for a completely fresh build. Its normally not expensive.
@@Isavetractors I had them vacuum test, he said they were ok, so I'll slap them a little and they should be ok.
Very well done Sir !
Great video, I’m in the middle of rebuilding a K321 right now and while the cylinder looked great it was out of spec with both taper and out of round. Appearances can be deceiving.
Thanks Norman!
I am in the process of rebuilding a Kohler Magnum MV18S (Opposed Twin).
HOW would I increase the HP & TORQUE on this engine? Sadly, there are not many people out there with ANY experience with these engines...
I have spent HOURS looking, and all I have gathered is that I should do a COMPLETE Valve Job (huh?), And upgrade to a larger Carb (where)...
I reside just West of Seattle, Washington and am Very Willing to learn & get dirty with knowledge. What assistance could you give?
Many thanks Norman!
-Thomas (12)
Port Orchard, Washington
Have you checked out : Taryl Fixes All? Funny and informative, he’s easy on the ladies eyes too 😻
@@RustyZipper, Taryl gives "AWESOME" tips, but told me to find soneone... :-(
Thanks Rusty Zipper!
-Thomas (12)
Port Orchard, Washington
Check in with some pulling tractor guys , specifically search Brian Miller Pulling tractor tips on google. He’s like Taryl but loves making competition garden tractors.
@@RustyZipper Brian Miller, you say?
Does he have a Facebook page?
Thanks Rusty Zipper!,
-Thomas (12)
Port Orchard, Washington
gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm
What type of valve seat cutter do you have?
I use the Neway Valve Seat cutters. We sell them too!
Great advice for a Kohler 321 engine!
Do you normally need to do work on cams in garden tractors, or are they pretty durable?
No you dont normally need to work on them. Occassionally the points lobe have wear but its rare
Decompression gizmos on cams give trouble though
3:07 high quality digital calipers are actually pretty good for measuring engine parts. But it HAS to be a high quality model rated for that much precision. They have been make good digital micrometers but have fun trying to measure a bore with those, going to need a bore gauge or high quality calipers.
Problem with calipers is not the precision of the instrument but the precision of the user since it's a slider vs a screw you turn. Wrist movements can lead to inaccurate measurements in certain shapes.
@@Isavetractors oh for sure, we used clamps to get good measurements.
and when you buy your micrometer get a gauge block with it so you can learn how to use it the most common mistake iv seen working in a machine shop is improper use not centering it right or over tightening or dirt or even not understanding how to read it correctly which will lead to inaccurate measurements and its the same with a bore indicator and always check your crankshaft end play
Awesome tips!
Very true! Great advice 👍 👌 👏
Great tips, hope to use them on a kohler mv17
Why do I have to gap.the rings because even in semi trucks we don't do that. Just wondering my dad told me to skip that step because its un needed
Air cooled engines expand a lot. Definitely don't skip it
@@Isavetractors well I put it together with your parts and it is really stiff
@@Isavetractors my boss and my dad told me I didn't have to and I argued but they said if it doesn't work they was going to pay for it
Thank you.
Why not use a bore gauge?
Great advice and I can see how a newbie like myself would skip these steps. My question is how do you measure the cylinder with the micrometer that you showed? It seems you could only measure the piston and that does not seem like the correct measurement. Please help me out here. Again, thanks for the great videos.
To measure the cylinder, you first use a telescoping gauge to transfer the dimensions to use with an outside micrometer. See our how to measure an engine video
Awesome video
I have to create a knotty pine room and start collecting those tractor manufacturer tine ads.
Hello Norman ,
I have a old cast iron small Kohler engine that's complete other that the model number & spec decals are missing .
How can I figure out what size this engine is ?
It looks like maybe a 5 or 6 hp .
Any information would be appreciated.
Measure the bore and go to our website www.isavetractors.com go to resources then service manuals. Download our quick spec sheet. Compare bore size to whats in the chart to determine which engine it is
Where r u located I have a couple Tractor I would like u to rebuild
What size micrometer do you use? Do prefer the original (analog) vs a digital?
Micrometers come as 1 to 2 inch, 2 to 3 etc. I have them from 0 to 7 inches. I prefer the analog ones
@@Isavetractors what size would you recommend for measuring the journals on a K181 and K321?
@@Natethanastysnake666 a 1 to 2 inch micrometer
@@Isavetractors thank you Norman! Going to be rebuilding my JD 110 RF K181 and my JD 140 H3 K321. I'll be ordering both of your engine kits for the rebuild! Thank you
I have been a Tool Maker Machinist for over 50 years I can check a hole dead nuts with a GOOD Digital Calipers Just sayin Its all in the feel.
Great tips!
OK I subbed. Thanks We have the same amount of subscribers. Cool
Great info!
I have a 1970 Wheel Horse Raider 12 with the K301. It's old and tired and at times I hear some knocking sounds in the crankcase usually if I am on a hillside ( I always check oil level before I start it). Some have told me that they are noisy when new. I'm not convinced of that. Should I tear into it this winter or just see if it gets worse? Great video's.
Sounds like the rod is worn, this will allow "slapping" or knocking.
Run it 'till it blows. In the mean time keep your eye out for a complete replacement. Oftentimes you can find a good running engine cheaper than a rebuild. They made tons of the Kohler k-series engines and put them in all kinds of equipment. The Cub Cadet ones are the only one to avoid in your situation because the oil pan/ mounting holes are different than your WH but your style is by far the most common. A k241, k321, k341 will bolt in as well.
Some people give me dead riding mowers but no tractor's
Iv always told people messure and after they get it rebuilt keep a air filter on it there bad for not useing one around here lol
If I am working on an engine with a blown head gasket, I usually take the heads to a local machine shop to have them milled so they are guaranteed to be flat. Also, if you prefer to do it yourself with sandpaper, I've heard that it works best to move the head in a figure-8 pattern so that it wears evenly in all directions.
Great stuff! It still sounds terrifying. lol
going after carburetor without check compression first is a loosing battle. that's why the 289 in my mustang wont idle & needs full choke to start
5:25 do not go off the edge of the paper and try to keep the wetness is even. Unlike the dramatic reenactment in this video
So why not put two cubs together make a zero turn out of two into one out of hydros .
ahhhh slap it together, after cleaning it up, with new parts/seals. new cranks are expensive... if have alum rods, the rods wear/egg shaped more than the crank should. yes ring end gap is important. clean motor is nice. the ones i get are so used as ppl cant check/change the oil ... run them out of oil and so bad need an overbore of .020" but that costs money... so i just dremel out the lip at the top to get piston out, hone out cyl as well as i can, get .010" oversize rings, file the ring gap to what it should be. slap it back together again.. run 20-50 wt oil with 20% STP OIL TREATMENT and write on the gd machine CHECK THE GD OIL BEFORE EACH RUN OF THE DAY... CHANGE OIL EVERY 30-50 hours!!!!! 20-50 OIL w/ STP OIL TREATMENT, 20%
might want to add to next video.... wash the block and parts with hot water and soap... yep.... better do it.. i didnt.. i used brake cleaner.. brand new roll of blue towels. its great clean ... NOT..... if i could post a photo i would... i didnt run the motor long so damage wasnt to bad. i might get lucky with sandpaper clean up.. but yep .... hot soapy water.. told to me by the shop who did my mechane work on the bore and crank. 10 over and 10 under.
Well I didn't make any mistakes when I rebuilt my K301 (I have an unfair advantage being an auto mechanic :P )
When I redo engines I tear them down piece by piece send them to the machine shop the shop redos everything and I get a brand new block back
By the time you buy all the tools and they must be good ones not tools from harbor freight it comes in cheaper to just bring it to a machine shop that you trust.
Green Meanie Harbor Freight sells lots of good tools.
It's not the store it was 10 years ago.
Harbor Freight tools are much much better now than what they use to be.
@@jhitt79 They may be but no where near the quality of true machinist tools that you need to measure with.
Green Meanie
Speaking from experience, I've found the opposite is true.
@@jhitt79 you must be some machinist then.
First Like!!!!🤠
So where does a guy take a Kohler engine to be bored or cranks turned? Does anyone actually do it? I checked every place 5 counties wide and not a soul that can do any such work....
Check out our website we have a listing of partners. Any engine machine shop can do these. The ones you want to look for are the ones who do work for heavy machinery engines and not street cars
Sir, you are not correct on making the head flat. NEVER BACK AND FORTH. ONLY A FUGURE EIGHT.
It's not what you know, but what you don't know that bites you in the butt. Everytime.
"Men lie, women lie, numbers don't" -Jay-Z
I call crap just saying and that you forgot to mention a glaze breaker
It's only a "5 Mistakes" video, not 100 mistakes. Can't include it all.
And who gonna do all this precision work? Costs money. Alot of money. Its not a rocket engine. Doesn't have to be perfect..Cost over 1000.00 to rebuild a 100.00 engine if you take this guys advice. Go buy yourself a new mower imo.
I've helped over 100,000 people so far rebuild their "$100" engines and turned on over a million people to the idea of rebuild vs replace. 😉👍keep saving those tractors folks. P.S. It doesn't cost $1,000 to rebuild these engines.