Hi Lyle, first up - thank you for making the time to produce these videos. Now, from your previous video, keep in mind that your our Online Shop Teacher. And you are teaching us really good stuff. Most of the other people who make shorter videos are merely demonstrating their imagination and skills. There are a few exceptions who take their content to higher levels as educators, but you have been and still are the meat & potatoes of machining. Stay safe and well :)
I think that you forget sometimes that your value as a teacher is that you convey the thought process so well. To demonstrate is easy, but to convey 'why' is a true skill.
I came back to watch this one again. I'm making a basic set of jaws now for a friend. Thanks for all the videos, I always enjoy them and nice job on the serrations they look really good.
Good Monday morning class with the second cup of coffee. Grandson here this morning so he is in his virtual/on line 7th grade first period and I'm at MrPete U getting my 'edutainment' for the morning. Thanks for the good start to the day Lyle. Now to go start raking the yard....
I am in the middle of restoring two Wilton Bullet Vises. I am actually at the point of needing new jaws for them and was trying to figure out how I was going to make them. Thank you so much Mr. Pete. Awesome video. Now the courage to take my mill out of tram.
TOT comments on Mr. Pete! Both of ya's are a favorite of mine. Thanks guys for putting me to sleep for the last few years!😂 Mr Pete, didja know... On February 18, 1930, Clyde Tombaugh of Streator, Illinois, discovered our solar system's most famous dwarf planet, Pluto.
You’re a great internet shop teacher. I am willing to bet that if I had you as a shop teacher some 40 odd years ago I would have pursued the metal trades as a career.
Another excellent video Mr. Pete,I enjoy watching your video's as they are educational and much more interesting than anything on Tv. Four weeks ago I was unfortunate to have broken my hip so I have had a lot of time to watch your videos. Soon I will be back in the shop to practice what I have learned. Thanks for your time producing these excellent videos.
I'm impressed with the serration!I always wondered how those were made. I'm sure some of them are stamped, but the milling machine is an amazing tool! I don't really need one,but some day, I will get a small one just to play with just to say "I can do it". .
hi Mr Pete .. if your not learning your not living.. so my grandad said. and if things get a little boring do something else. an come latter . it never boring to watch. to listen. or to learn with you. hope i can find more time to keep up with you ... many thanks . uk tone
not as bad as taking a round horizontal arm out of tram... my clausing 8520 is hard to tram.. I had to add turnbuckles so I have a way to sneak up on it.
Actually it is real easy. I worked in a mold shop and learned how and 40 years later it is still easy. Kind of like using a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe. The indicator is your friend.
I haven't tried this, but I think you could avoid tilting the mill head by using a ball nose mill. If you mill to a depth of 0.293 ( = 1 - 1/sqrt(2)) times the mill nose radius, the cut will be at an angle of 45 degrees at the edge. The bottom of the cut will of course be rounded, but that shouldn't matter in this application. The tops of the serrations should still be nice and sharp.
It’s like you can read our minds Mr. Pete. I’m sure I’m not the only one that wondered why you didn’t just use a V bit instead of going through all the work to tilt the head of your Bridgebort and of course even more work needed to bring it back into 100% vertical again. I also wondered about the conventional cut vs climb cut but in the end the minute difference in finish only adds to the beauty of the finished facets.
It gets me thinking of extending this design for a V slot on one for round tapers or a steel ball could be used as the pivot for compound angles parts.
Thanks for the good information, Lyle. I enjoy watching your videos hoping some day to have a micro lathe. I have a friend that's a machinist, so I'd let him do the heavy stuff, while I do the others.
Great finish on those jaws. I really hate tilting the head on my big import bed mill. It doesn't have the worm gear adjustment like your Bridgeport. It relies on three m20 bolts and friction. Tramming and setting angles is done with a deadblow and patience.
I am enjoying this neat little project. As a sidebar, you know it’s going to be serious business when Mr. Pete opens the video and you see the Bridgeport with its head tilted in the background. 😄
I would love to see a project for extensions; extension/holder for short tools like deburring tools, so I don't have to keep cranking the mill up and down. Maybe 6" long and holds 1/4" shank tools, held with set screws..? Good project idea.
What would a fellow do, if they had a mill with a fixed head Sir? I had thought of trying a 90° cutter, but as you demonstrated, that won't work I suppose you could angle the work at 45° and work out a method that suits?
I really think this project would be a lot better in tool steel and hardened. Aas far as rather being flogged rather than tipping the head on the mill, my shop teacher in high school was really paranoid about that also. Later i got a job in a mold shop and always was tilting the head on the mill. once I learned hoe easy it was to tram the head in square I haven't hesitated since. A possible variant to this project would be to leave one side smooth. the side against the vise jaw has no reason for serrations. Also you could redesign this to have replaceable face and perhaps s soft version also.
Another man mentioned using a center drill. Does it actually cut? Is it a nice clean serration? I need to try that. I have used a mill drill, But it gives a terrible finish. That are shown and part four I believe
@@mrpete222 I don't think a Bridgeport goes fast enough for that kind of work. The engraving guys that use V type cutters are typically at 10 or 20 thousand RPM. A quick speed calc for a .100" width v groove shows just over 19,000 RPM with carbide. At Bridgeport speeds, you would have to feed so slow, I think you would fall asleep. ;) Better to take the beating and tilt the head.
Typo or missing arrow on the 45 to 60 degree dimension on drawing? At least compared to your included angle of 90 degrees. And on average how many nights of restless sleep do you typically have after realizing your going to need to tilt the head? Keith
16° angle blocks..... Other angles are availabe :) Got a mill many years ago. It got little use but now I want to make a ton of little novelties just for the purpose of work holding !
Greetings from National lodge 568. These are great tutorials! Thank you for the education. What would be the most efficient way to put serrations on the end of mated round stock aluminum tubes to prevent rotation?
When making multiple passes, you climb mill in one direction and conventional mill in the other. I know that it is probably not critical, but do you notice a difference?
Interesting as always! Question: would it be possible in principle to use the "double angled cutter" on a vertical mill, if the workpiece could be held vertically as well?
Great vid... Just a question regarding efficiency. Is there a reason you did each piece separately? I see a logic in placing both jaws in the vise side by side and doing them both at once but I have no experience. This way you could do both in about half the time.
Hey Mr. Pete...Just wondering...spindle speed in RPM.... 4 x cutting speed divided by Diameter...1/4" carbide cutter on mild steel...couldn't the spindle speed be at the top end of your step pulley machine, 2750 rpm ? Mark
The maths seems off to me. If you move down by 30 thou the grove should be 60 thou wide, then if you step over 100 thou for each grove you should end up with 40x40 thou squares as lands on top of the pyramids. It machines right to the center of the pyramid tops though. Is there something I'm missing?
I noticed there is no extra credit on this pt 2 video. I have been participating on the extra credit on your previous videos, which reminds me I haven't received any verification on the extra credit. Thanks tubalcain for sharing your time and talents with us students.
@@mrpete222 thank you mrpete222 would you ever do a video of something like that. Also thank you for all the work you do for us. I have learned so much from you. Thank you
@@MrRShoaf I asked because I want to add serrations to A Single Action Army Hammer that I have that somebody remove the serrations on. But its s shaped and rounded. So it would be like adding serrations to a round bar bent in an S shape. MrPetes way is the only way I can see it be done. With a press and curved die. But if there's a way to do it without that I would love to know.
@@snappers_antique_firearms First thing I think I would do is check with a gunsmith and see if you could just get a replacement hammer. if someone filed off the original notches you might be getting a bit thin machining new ones. Your particular job might best by done with a file.
Excellent video Mr. Peter. Could I ask why you did not use cutting oil? Is it simply to avoid the mess or did you deem it unnecessary for making such a shallow cut?
Serrations looking good Tubalcain! But you had to tilt the head ! The horror! The fourth guy in the picture, that look on his face is because he knows you knew better. Lol seriously tho, great work. Plus I see Kasenite on the bench !
I just noticed......My Dad drove a Mack truck for many years and those Mack hood ornaments are hard to come by. My Dad acquired one and mounted on the hood of his 60 Ford F100 but someone stole it.
Anybody that is scared to take their mill out of vertical because they are afraid to tram it back in needs to visit Edge Technology and check out their double indicator Pro Tram system. You can go from 45 degrees to back to zero with very little effort. You can even use it with a sine bar to set precision angles, and it only costs 10 saw bucks! You just can't do better than that!
I have several mill/drills. No point. It’s flat on the end a bit. A few models do have a point, but those are just no good for slotting, which was being done here. They’re really slow because they only have two flutes, and the shape of the cutting edges, to be strong, are let’s say, less than optimal. My 3/4” HSS bit cost $85, about five years ago, and I’ve only used it twice. I try not to.
Hi Lyle, first up - thank you for making the time to produce these videos. Now, from your previous video, keep in mind that your our Online Shop Teacher. And you are teaching us really good stuff. Most of the other people who make shorter videos are merely demonstrating their imagination and skills. There are a few exceptions who take their content to higher levels as educators, but you have been and still are the meat & potatoes of machining. Stay safe and well :)
Thank you very very much for encouraging me
@@mrpete222 Right back at you Lyle :)
I think that you forget sometimes that your value as a teacher is that you convey the thought process so well. To demonstrate is easy, but to convey 'why' is a true skill.
Well said!
You are indeed the shop teacher of shop teachers. Thanks for teaching all of us. Stay safe.
Thanks
I came back to watch this one again. I'm making a basic set of jaws now for a friend. Thanks for all the videos, I always enjoy them and nice job on the serrations they look really good.
The techniques you share with us apply to so many other projects.
Eternally grateful.
Good Monday morning class with the second cup of coffee. Grandson here this morning so he is in his virtual/on line 7th grade first period and I'm at MrPete U getting my 'edutainment' for the morning. Thanks for the good start to the day Lyle. Now to go start raking the yard....
👍
I am in the middle of restoring two Wilton Bullet Vises. I am actually at the point of needing new jaws for them and was trying to figure out how I was going to make them. Thank you so much Mr. Pete. Awesome video. Now the courage to take my mill out of tram.
nice work as always Mr P!
Hey Tony, check out Paul Brodie on TH-cam. Good stuff!
TOT comments on Mr. Pete! Both of ya's are a favorite of mine. Thanks guys for putting me to sleep for the last few years!😂
Mr Pete, didja know...
On February 18, 1930, Clyde Tombaugh of Streator, Illinois, discovered our solar system's most famous dwarf planet, Pluto.
Mr. Pete thank you for taking the time to teach us! I appreciate you and your willingness to share knowledge.
You’re a great internet shop teacher. I am willing to bet that if I had you as a shop teacher some 40 odd years ago I would have pursued the metal trades as a career.
Thanks
Another excellent video Mr. Pete,I enjoy watching your video's as they are educational and much more interesting than anything on Tv. Four weeks ago I was unfortunate to have broken my hip so I have had a lot of time to watch your videos. Soon I will be back in the shop to practice what I have learned. Thanks for your time producing these excellent videos.
Get well soon
Bless you Tubalcain, you are one of just a few of the most patient, clear and needed teachers this platform has...Stay Safe !!
Thank you very very much
Another video that grabs people's attention, and won't let them slip away.
You have all the angles covered. Thanks for another great video.
lol
Make one sharp and the other one duller and have a choice. Thanks for your work, Carl
Make one Sharpe and the other Brown?
Coming along perfect. Love the serations.
I'm impressed with the serration!I always wondered how those were made. I'm sure some of them are stamped, but the milling machine is an amazing tool! I don't really need one,but some day, I will get a small one just to play with just to say "I can do it". .
Once again answering a question I didn't even know I had yet. That was fascinating. Thanks, Mr. Pete!
I can envision a set of those jaws with one side serrated and one smooth, depending on the type of work being held. Thanks, Mr. Pete! :-)
Or even one 'deep' and the other shallow - so sharp points on one side flat points on the other.
hi Mr Pete .. if your not learning your not living.. so my grandad said. and if things get a little boring do something else. an come latter . it never boring to watch. to listen. or to learn with you. hope i can find more time to keep up with you ... many thanks . uk tone
Thanks
I love you mr Pete, you’re an absolutely great man!
Thanks
glad you explained the use of a chamfering bit, I didn't think of the tip not cutting.
Same. I was going to go purchase one. This nugget of knowledge just saved me hours of frustration!
Taking your bridgeport out of tram.... you're a braver man than me Mr Pete!
not as bad as taking a round horizontal arm out of tram... my clausing 8520 is hard to tram.. I had to add turnbuckles so I have a way to sneak up on it.
Actually it is real easy. I worked in a mold shop and learned how and 40 years later it is still easy. Kind of like using a 4 jaw chuck on the lathe. The indicator is your friend.
@@MrRShoaf yep, installing angle pins...just another day at the office.
I really enjoy these projects, always learn something! Thanks for putting forth the effort!.
It is FUN.
And i THANK YOU for the fun!
Tubalcain, bloody awesome mate. Keep em up digger!! 🇦🇺 🦘
All time in the workshop is fun, regardless of what you are doing. Watching you work is double fun.
I am getting to where I would rather watch it, than do it. LOL
I haven't tried this, but I think you could avoid tilting the mill head by using a ball nose mill. If you mill to a depth of 0.293 ( = 1 - 1/sqrt(2)) times the mill nose radius, the cut will be at an angle of 45 degrees at the edge. The bottom of the cut will of course be rounded, but that shouldn't matter in this application. The tops of the serrations should still be nice and sharp.
Very nice work. Thank you very much you have taught me a lot over the years. Great video.
It’s like you can read our minds Mr. Pete.
I’m sure I’m not the only one that wondered why you didn’t just use a V bit instead of going through all the work to tilt the head of your Bridgebort and of course even more work needed to bring it back into 100% vertical again.
I also wondered about the conventional cut vs climb cut but in the end the minute difference in finish only adds to the beauty of the finished facets.
👍
I continue to enjoy your videos regardless of length or topic. I see you survived the "beating" for moving the head to an angle, grin...
It gets me thinking of extending this design for a V slot on one for round tapers or a steel ball could be used as the pivot for compound angles parts.
Thank you, I do intend to make a trial with the ball
Yes it is fun to see all the little hints along the way, THANKS Mrpete222
👍
Reminds me I need to find a good ram ornament for the hood of my new 74 grain truck! 😎
Yes
Thanks Mr Pete. I plan on making a set. Great instruction this morning.
Great job Mr. Pete
Thanks for the good information, Lyle. I enjoy watching your videos hoping some day to have a micro lathe. I have a friend that's a machinist, so I'd let him do the heavy stuff, while I do the others.
👍👍
Great finish on those jaws. I really hate tilting the head on my big import bed mill. It doesn't have the worm gear adjustment like your Bridgeport. It relies on three m20 bolts and friction. Tramming and setting angles is done with a deadblow and patience.
Awesome work, thank you for always willing to share your knowledge!
I really appreciate the time you put into sharing your knowledge Thank you!!!!!!!!!!
👍👍
I am enjoying this neat little project. As a sidebar, you know it’s going to be serious business when Mr. Pete opens the video and you see the Bridgeport with its head tilted in the background. 😄
lol
Thank you for another entertaining video, Mr. Pete
This is a great project. I think I will incorporate it in my low profile clamps that I am making.
Yes
Every time my Wife would walk past a Mack truck She would have to pet the little dog and tell him what a good boy he was... 😃
Thanks for sharing Lyle.
I would love to see a project for extensions; extension/holder for short tools like deburring tools, so I don't have to keep cranking the mill up and down. Maybe 6" long and holds 1/4" shank tools, held with set screws..? Good project idea.
I'm thinking about "nodding" the head either forward or back, so I can index on the Y, and feed on the X, that way I can use the power feed on the X.
Another great video, thanks Mr. Pete
Thanks
Thank You Lyle.
Yes it is fun watching you make parts. And your commentary. Where else can you get up earlier on a Sunday morning and learn machining skills...
Thanks
Another great video,thanks for all your efforts🤗🤗🤗
What would a fellow do, if they had a mill with a fixed head Sir?
I had thought of trying a 90° cutter, but as you demonstrated, that won't work
I suppose you could angle the work at 45° and work out a method that suits?
I really think this project would be a lot better in tool steel and hardened.
Aas far as rather being flogged rather than tipping the head on the mill, my shop teacher in high school was really paranoid about that also. Later i got a job in a mold shop and always was tilting the head on the mill. once I learned hoe easy it was to tram the head in square I haven't hesitated since.
A possible variant to this project would be to leave one side smooth. the side against the vise jaw has no reason for serrations. Also you could redesign this to have replaceable face and perhaps s soft version also.
I watched both vids on the jaws. I will watch for swivel jaws at machine shop auctions. Average joe wouldn't know what they are.
another great video I don't think your videos are to long thanks again
Ya know, it was worth watching the whole thing.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Enjoyed.
I left my head straight. Used a small center drill & its ok. I don't angle my head. Good video.
Another man mentioned using a center drill. Does it actually cut? Is it a nice clean serration? I need to try that. I have used a mill drill, But it gives a terrible finish. That are shown and part four I believe
I thought so.
@@mrpete222 I don't think a Bridgeport goes fast enough for that kind of work. The engraving guys that use V type cutters are typically at 10 or 20 thousand RPM. A quick speed calc for a .100" width v groove shows just over 19,000 RPM with carbide. At Bridgeport speeds, you would have to feed so slow, I think you would fall asleep. ;) Better to take the beating and tilt the head.
Typo or missing arrow on the 45 to 60 degree dimension on drawing? At least compared to your included angle of 90 degrees. And on average how many nights of restless sleep do you typically have after realizing your going to need to tilt the head? Keith
16° angle blocks.....
Other angles are availabe :)
Got a mill many years ago. It got little use but now I want to make a ton of little novelties just for the purpose of work holding !
FYI....they make metal files that are specific for checkering on metal as a checkering tool for a gunstock etc...
Greetings from National lodge 568. These are great tutorials! Thank you for the education. What would be the most efficient way to put serrations on the end of mated round stock aluminum tubes to prevent rotation?
Knurl
When making multiple passes, you climb mill in one direction and conventional mill in the other. I know that it is probably not critical, but do you notice a difference?
Interesting as always!
Question: would it be possible in principle to use the "double angled cutter" on a vertical mill, if the workpiece could be held vertically as well?
Yes, but the workplace would have to be held vertically add an angle
For us who only have a round column mill/drill, and can't tilt the head, is there a way to do the serrations?
Sure looks like fun to me! 😎👍
Great vid... Just a question regarding efficiency. Is there a reason you did each piece separately? I see a logic in placing both jaws in the vise side by side and doing them both at once but I have no experience. This way you could do both in about half the time.
That would work just fine
Passing grade as always Mr P!
Neet project mr Pete,useful too . How would it be to leave one side plain or maybe different serration? Good video,thanks Jim
Good morning teacher, I get the assignment. Good instruction .
On the first cut of the serrations, how do you keep from blowing off the corner? You can’t really edgefind that. Just eyeball?
Guesstimate
Hey Mr. Pete...Just wondering...spindle speed in RPM.... 4 x cutting speed divided by Diameter...1/4" carbide cutter on mild steel...couldn't the spindle speed be at the top end of your step pulley machine, 2750 rpm ? Mark
The maths seems off to me. If you move down by 30 thou the grove should be 60 thou wide, then if you step over 100 thou for each grove you should end up with 40x40 thou squares as lands on top of the pyramids. It machines right to the center of the pyramid tops though. Is there something I'm missing?
Perhaps misread the depth as .050" instead? Or only did .060 step over?
Superb! Thank you for posting!
Pretty slick boss 👍😁👍. Cheers!
With some modifications, one could use this technique to make waffle irons.
remember this is supposed to be fun! ha ha. It is sir, it is. Thanks again!
I noticed there is no extra credit on this pt 2 video. I have been participating on the extra credit on your previous videos, which reminds me I haven't received any verification on the extra credit. Thanks tubalcain for sharing your time and talents with us students.
How do you cut serrations on a curved surface. Like the serrations on the hammer on a colt single action army.
Stamping press, curved die
@@mrpete222 thank you mrpete222 would you ever do a video of something like that. Also thank you for all the work you do for us. I have learned so much from you. Thank you
Easy way would be to grind a broach recently Joe Pie made an indexed dial foe a mini model lathe with a similar technique.
@@MrRShoaf I asked because I want to add serrations to A Single Action Army Hammer that I have that somebody remove the serrations on. But its s shaped and rounded. So it would be like adding serrations to a round bar bent in an S shape. MrPetes way is the only way I can see it be done. With a press and curved die. But if there's a way to do it without that I would love to know.
@@snappers_antique_firearms
First thing I think I would do is check with a gunsmith and see if you could just get a replacement hammer. if someone filed off the original notches you might be getting a bit thin machining new ones.
Your particular job might best by done with a file.
It is fun!! Great work as always. May i please ask a question? How would I cut those searations on a mill that does not have a tilting head??
make a fixture to hod the work at an angle. You can also start with a little longer stock to give you a way to clamp.
Fabulous video, thank you
Thanks
Excellent video Mr. Peter. Could I ask why you did not use cutting oil? Is it simply to avoid the mess or did you deem it unnecessary for making such a shallow cut?
Mainly for clarity while photographing.
@@mrpete222 I see, thanks for replying.
nicely done
Serrations looking good Tubalcain! But you had to tilt the head ! The horror! The fourth guy in the picture, that look on his face is because he knows you knew better. Lol seriously tho, great work. Plus I see Kasenite on the bench !
😄😄
Morning, Lyle.
Thank u so much, learned a lot
Rather be dead than tilt the head....I've been dead several times and never regretted. Thanks for the tips.
I just noticed......My Dad drove a Mack truck for many years and those Mack hood ornaments are hard to come by. My Dad acquired one and mounted on the hood of his 60 Ford F100 but someone stole it.
Well now, it was not even mine but that makes me sad.
Hi I'm new to machining and I'm wondering if KBC tools is a reliable source for tooling
Yes
@@mrpete222 Thank you I appreciate the advice
I have created serrations using a fly cutter before.
But it is trial and error.
Whoa! You answered the question. Need to watch the whole video before commenting. Sorry..
thank you
sad part: we will never see You in person
happy part: we keep to see You and again 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
👍👍👍
Anybody that is scared to take their mill out of vertical because they are afraid to tram it back in needs to visit Edge Technology and check out their double indicator Pro Tram system. You can go from 45 degrees to back to zero with very little effort. You can even use it with a sine bar to set precision angles, and it only costs 10 saw bucks! You just can't do better than that!
Much faster than the shaper.
I seem to remember that you once said you would rather be dead than tilt the head! Maybe that was in a different life.
You should do a video on how they make the holes on Swiss Cheese. 🤣
My grandmother use to make holes in Jack cheese. When I was little I liked swiss cheese so if she didn't have any she made me think that she did.
Mr Pete222, No 714 and 715 yet?
This weekend
That is a Bridgebort also lol.
I have several mill/drills. No point. It’s flat on the end a bit. A few models do have a point, but those are just no good for slotting, which was being done here. They’re really slow because they only have two flutes, and the shape of the cutting edges, to be strong, are let’s say, less than optimal. My 3/4” HSS bit cost $85, about five years ago, and I’ve only used it twice. I try not to.
You are so right. I do demonstrate this I think in part four
Need a video tramming that Bridgeport in real time. No edits.
He has uploaded one already, years ago. Actually more than one using different indicators.
If it was me, you'd have to mute the sound to keep it "family friendly."
No cutting fluid? Ron W4BIN