It is obvious to me that you paid attention all those years as a machinist, and probably had some excellent mentoring as well. You are now mentoring in our direction, and thank you so much for that. I like how you want to have the correct tool for any given job, and are not afraid to make it, even to produce just a few parts. I do learn several new things from each of your videos, and your "best work" positive attitude is starting to rub off a bit on this old hack...
Thanks Bob, I am glad you are getting something out of these. I did work with some great people in the two shops I worked in before I went out on my own. Thanks for all your very kind comments, Robin
Yeah, I noticed zip-zap speed of someone used to pushing production throughput. There's actually a lot of ops in doing all this and he gets it done in no time. One of the few vids you don't need to start skipping to avoid the waffle and get the action ! Great stuff.
I guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my account password. I love any assistance you can give me
You are an efficient, energetic machinist with great skill and lots of mileage behind you. It shows in your dexterity and the apparent large backlog of tricks and techniques. I'm super happy I found your channel. Thanks for sharing.
People need to know watching your videos is far better that 100 videos that are just 5 minutes long what we need is an in depth lesson that gives us years of inspection . we are getting trained by a master - not goings away thinking " well I understand a bit now "
I think it is obvious to everyone that your knowledge, efficient techniques, and orderly work methods are enviable. It must be a real distraction to have to video and edit these (especially when the clock is running and your clients are waiting for stuff to get done), but it shows the true American spirit of sharing and caring and I/we certainly appreciate it! You are also a wonderful role model for young people, and I hope that many younger viewers decide to emulate you, and consider this as a rewarding career option. We certainly could use many more talented machinists like you and far fewer 'gender studies' majors to help rebuild America. Thank you very much for sharing your vast knowledge and experience in all of your videos (I've watched a bunch of them in a row!)
The "Oops, forgot my stop wasn't there" and "Better get that drill back on center" made me chuckle, because it's exactly the type of thing I do when I'm trying to hustle anytime anyone is looking over my shoulder. Good to know you're human after all! :-)
I do appreciate your attention to detail even on the non critical parts/features. That's the hallmark of a master craftsman. Your time-is-money pace is refreshing to see. My students get tired of hearing, "In the real world you earn by the job, not by the hour!" You have proven that speed and accuracy are not disjoint sets! Thank you for such inspiring videos.
I really appreciate your attention to detail in this video. Not only the machining aspects, but your narration and details (such as cutting fluid type, etc.) are very helpful. No wasted words or time, enough so that I had to check to see if it was sped up a few times. I've been working my way through all your videos, thanks for your excellent content.
Nothing better than seeing the HP 48 sitting on the saddle of your mill :-). A man after my own hearth! No wonder you can't find an old beat to hell one on Ebay for less than what we paid for them back in the day! Nicely done!
That is my favorite HP calculator, I had every one before it and only tried one after it. They went the wrong direction IMO after the 48GX. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Agreed. My 48G has traveled the world with me never complaining while offering continuous support and utility. It would certainly have to be pried from my cold dead hands to force a separation at this point in time.
Robin is that a shop made collet stop? What is the size of the stud? From what I am seeing commercial ones seem to be 3/8-24. I am going to make one I could have used one today would have saved me a lot of time.
I have 3 and they are all purchased. That one is 3/8-16 and I have one that is 3/8-24 and one that uses 1/2 dia. solid with a setscrew flat. I just buy all thread to make a variety of styles and diameters. I like the 1/2 diameter style for its instant change of stop rod. The 3/8-16 is next favorite and the 3/8-24 takes too long to change stops even when you use a drill to spin them out.
New sub here. I thought that differential screws were always two threads with different pitches in the same direction. Now I’ve learned they can be right and left hand the same pitch. I like that your shop is a little bit dirty like mine and doesn’t look like a laboratory.
This is a great idea! I have a couple Wilton vise's that I put copper jaws on, but hated the big holes. I used this technique to put copper jaws on my Starrett vise, and it's so much nicer! Thanks for the inspiration.
50 years ago I made a few different lengths of pipe that I slotted to go over the spindle stop screw so I wouldn’t need to spin the nuts up and down. Saves a lot of time.
I did exactly the same thing for the same reasons. Many years later I designed and patented the “Rapid-Stop” a quick release nut that mounted permanently on the Bridgeport quill. It’s no longer in production but I use mine almost every day.
Between you and thatlazymachinist, I have learned so much. Two of the best machining channels out there. There is so much knowledge, technique and skill in your videos, I find I have to watch them a few times to take it all in. +1 on the future Chamfer Meister video. Subscribed
A lot of great ideas, thanks. I'd love to see a video on the Chamfer Meister if possible, I've seen and made a lot of crude set-ups to make chamfers and bevels but that's great, simple and affordable.
Another really informative video. You are starting to get like Tom and now I have to have one browser window open to the video and another open to amazon or Wikipedia. Thanks for the lesson. You are an excellent teacher.
my attention span is honestly like 4 minutes. That said, ive rewatched this video all the way through Twice now. I was at work today trying to remember just how in the hell you did that and I got the threading all confused. Something about the way you are totally nonchalant explaining what you're doing makes it look so much easier than it is.
It's nice to see a Machinist who works with speed in mind. I see these TH-cam ace machinist who while drilling clearance holes that are not that critical spot drill , drill and tap by removing the drills over and over in the same position. I have ran a machine shop for 10 years and I don't know how some these guys have stayed in business.
Rob, do you at least know it is unnatural to be able to drive two different Allen screws at the same time, inverted towards yourself, and at different rates? You've probably heard about the estimate of "10,000 hours to become expert" at almost anything, but you look like a man with 20,000 hours. Just phenomenal work and breadth of knowledge.
another vote for a video on the fancy chamfer tool! I've been mulling around different ideas for one, but yours is an optimal solution. Also, I love your videos! I hope I'm absorbing some of it!
That little Craftsmen belt sander / chamfering tool is really cool, I'd love to see a video on how you put this little tool together. Glad I listen to Tom and subscribed to your channel, I'm learning so much from you, and from Tom at OxTools. Keep up the cool videos, and thanks. Cheers.
Pretty creative. The "differential screw" you mention is also available through McMaster Carr under the title "Set Screws for Carbide Insert Holders". They have a selection of thread sizes.
A true master of your trade sir. I pride myself as being one of a few true millwrights ( by definition ) left in industry today. And in my travels have known, worked with, and just in general have been around a lot of very good experienced, machinists over the years, and I have to say I don't think any of them had their sh#t together as well as you do. That being said, I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos and learn something from every one of them. Thank you.
@@xmachine7003 I can't say for sure that I do, however the name does seem to ring a bell. I may know someone that knows him, hell the way my memory is these days I may know him, and had worked along side of him for years and just not be able make the name connect with the memories. But it does sound familiar. I don't know how many times in the last 6 or 8 years I've been shopping or on a job and somebody walk up to and start carrying on like a family member, all while I stand there laughing, smiling, and nodding my head in approval while simultaneously trying as hard as I can to figure out who the hell this guy is. Only to figure out halfway to the parking that it was someone that I had covered 100,000 miles of roads and almost as many hours in many different hellish jobs over the years. And that's when I really start to feel my age, not mention pretty damn stupid !
Great idea with the zip-lock vacuum packed HP48! How did I not think of that? Always just used a dollar store special on the machines and kept my HP safe on the desk..
Subbed. great channel. You attention to detail and imaginative solutions to the problems are impressive to me. I hope i can follow along and learn some stuff to use in my own small hobby shop.
Cool vid, thanks for taking the trouble to share your workflow. I have an ER32 collet chuck and repetitive work is a pain in the... you know what. But I kinda like that kinda work so no big deal for me. You've given me a feast of food for thought though, please keep it coming.
If you like this then make sure you go back to my "ultimate kelvin connection part1 and 2 . Don't let the electronic slant fool you this is a machining video.
@@ROBRENZ Thanks, I will do that. No worries, I'm good with electronics AND machining! RE differential screws, I think I saw a Tom Lipton vid (Repeat-O-Meter?) that gave me an idea for bed adjusters for my 3d printer, which work beautifully.
Really enjoyed the vise jaw video. I'll add a second request for you to detail the champher meister build. FYI I missed some of your instruction when you had your back to the camera Please continue on with your machining projects...you do a great job
OMG.......I am taking up wood carving with an axe................seeing this I understand I will NEVER make it to a machinist of even 10% of Rob's calibre.....booooohooooo I luvvvvv your work Sir.
Another superb job and video! I really appreciate the way you don't waste time on the air like unnecessary talk and cut time. Like the quill hand wheel. Didn't know that exists. Could another approach be to cut blind key holes in back of jaws and still use same size access hole through to tighten? Then use a standard #10 bhscs in your inserts. Maybe even keep original 5/16" and increase access holes and of course larger key holes. Then you would just loosen the screws, slide jaws, and pull off. You have a loyal fan and subscriber here Robin. Thank you for sharing.
I hate those big azz counterbores in vise jaws... It's like the designer never used vise. When my wife first went to work for MSC, I was perusing the MSC 'Big Book', just to see what I could learn. I was checking out bench vises, and got to wondering what differences I could find between inexpensive and expensive vises. One thing I discovered which dramatically changed my shop life was expensive vises use Torrington thrust bearings instead of thrust washers. Inspired by thhe info, I decided I would upgrade my vises, to see what the difference was. I measured every vise I had, even on old Japanese vise which had become a doorstop, literally, about 30 years ago. I spent 10.00 on bearings, and swapped out 5 vises in an afternoon. My gawd, what a difference! Take a look at any half dozen used vises, and 5 of them will have bent and beat up handles, (the other vise is still the box!) They get beat on to tighten, and beat on to loosen. Not any more. With the Torringtons, all you have to do is give the handle a tug, and it will not come loose. When you're done, give it a tug, and it's loose. In over 50 years of working in shops, and around tools, replacing the bushing with bearings is the single most cost effective, and impactful upgrade I have ever done. Oh, the old Japanese doorstop? It's now a usable vise, and I had to find something else for a door stop. Try it, you will not regret the effort.
Hey Robin, You really should try copper. It is much different than aluminum. Softness is not the only quality that makes copper superior. Nice trick with the turnbuckle screws. Best, Tom
+oxtoolco Thanks, next material order I will get some and make a set. I never heard them called turnbuckle screws but that is a perfect description. Thanks for subscribing.All the best, Robin
+cod.cape Thanks. That thing gets an immense amount of use in my shop. A chamfer machine is not a new idea but there are a lot of design features incorporated in this one that make it unique.
A complication is that if you were to build one now, you would have to get a used unit. That model that I think is a rebranded Ryobi is no longer made from what I can tell. Bosch made a similar unit too but it looks like it might also be discontinued. I am thinking the easier route if you wanted to start with a new machine. Is a benchtop belt sander.
***** I do a lot of hardened tool steel work where I want to do a very precise chamfer after finish grinding. The abrasive belt works on both hard and soft material. The axial grind lay of the belt leaves no burrs on the chamfers and I can change grit size to suit the job at hand. If you do a lot of large chamfers > .06" the belt sander will NOT be the ideal tool. Most of my chamfers are < .03"
Enjoying your work. A longer view of your set ups that shows the whole machine would be appreciated. Sometimes I can't tell what type of machine you are using. Thanks for the videos.
Nice idea using the insert screws. I suppose another approach would be to drill holes right through the vice jaw, counterbored at the far end where they come out, and use conventional socket cap screws the opposite way round into blind tapped holes in the soft jaw. Obviously there would be a (small) reduction in the strength of the vice jaws. But there is an in-between solution staying with your insert screw idea: Did you consider routing the access hole for the allen wrench the opposite way, ie through the vice jaw rather than through the soft/loose jaw? The strength implications would be negligible, I would think, and a smooth-faced jaw (whether soft or hard) is a fine thing.
Most people just pull the steel jaws and install soft jaws. Others use copper jaws that are "drop-in" and hang over the steel which provides a good solid backing. Others who do lots of vise work just have a big steel-jaw vice for bit heavy nasty work and a smaller "clean" vice with soft jaws. I don't think aluminum is really going to work too well for much. It doesn't grip too well.
Every other guy would have drilled from the backside... :-) But you found a way to leave the vice unchanged and remain compatible with existing jaws and have smaller holes. Concerning the differential screws I think this term is correct. It is just a special case where both pitches have the same value. The same is true for the rear axle differential in street vehicles which is also a special case (symmetric) of a general differential gear. We have commented about it in an earlier video: Your way to feed thin stock from the front side into a 5C collet with a back stop in it, keep the free end in your hand to avoid whipping, turn the part and part it off. It seems odd. :-) I have thought about it for a while. For small batches it has no disadvantages compared to the classic way of feeding from the backside. But I also can't see big advantages. It is just another way of doing it which works just as well for small batches.
My " tips on manual lathe high production" video shows this method also but with a stock tube in the tailstock. I think there is a distinct advantage on the parts shown. All these comments based on a manual machine with no inherent bar feeding mechanism and no automated tool changing/cnc operation. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thinking about it mathematically, I'd put these kinds of clamping screws in the same category of 'true' differential screws. If you were to define the pitch of a thread in terms of how far a land moves with one revolution (or how far it will push an object for one revolution) right and left hand threads becomes fundamentally the same thing, the difference being that one has a negative pitch.
Robin, at 15:55ish, did I see a pair of Knipex pliers wrenches? These, in my my opinion are awesome tools. Great video gained lots of tips and techniques. Many thanks for sharing. Are you going to Stan's bash? Kindest regards. Joe.
Great video Rob, really detailed and I learned a lot. I found your channel through Tom Lipton. That's a really cool box end wrench with a ball tip, i've never seen one before what is it called and what do you use it for? Thanks for making these videos it's a privilege to watch an artist like you work.
Thanks Shant Al-Saiegh, The wrench is a standard short box wrench with a steel ball brazed on one end. I use it for the mill drawbar and the ball is to tap the collets loose. Thanks for watching and commenting!
There are many comments about drilling through the back of the vice jaws. I can't help but think that either that would have to be done with a hand drill on the bench, or the vice would have to be removed from the bench and chucked up in the lathe or mill. Neither one of those seems as appealing to me as Robin's solution.
I commented to my wife..."I wonder if Robren is the smartest man in the world?" To me a novice machining learner...that answer would be "perhaps, just perhaps".
That is a great name. As a hobbyists with some skills I would never presume to call myself a Machinist or apprentice machinists ( I have too much respect for them). But I feel comfortable calling myself a novice machining learner.
Hi Robin, I really enjoy your content. Great video on the vise jaws. However, you really caught my attention with your Roll-In saw modifications. Would it be possible for you to provide more detail and pictures? I would really appreciate it. Might even be a great video opportunity. Regards, Brad
Put a dowel in the drill chuck. Put a dial test indicator in the spindle. Move the center height and x position of the drill chuck to get it true to the spindle as you spin the indicator around the pin in the chuck.
Enjoyed it. I noticed you milled the aluminum to length, but didn't true up the pieces facing the jaws (the backs against the cast iron) and the space (faces) between the jaws (facing each other where stuff is clamped). Is it just because they're "soft" jaws, so they're going to get out of whack anyway, and you'd never use it as a reference surface for measuring, so no point?
Like all dangerous operations, as long as you appeciate what and where the danger is, you should be able to mitigate it. For instance, I know a chainsaw can be VERY dangerous so I'm VERY VERY careful with it.
A couple of ideas about possible episodes for the future: 1) I would enjoy having a shop tour. 2)It is obvious that you likely have some "shop wisdom" about tools and/or techniques to share. 3) Any great applications/projects you have done mixing your electronics and machining hobbies?
+semidemiurge1. I may do a shop tour in the future. 2. I plan on doing lots of videos on machining and passing on whatever shop wisdom I may have.3. Have you watched any of the other videos on my channel? There is lots of electronic machining mix on there. Check out The Ultimate Kelvin Connection Part 1 and Part 2.
Serra Cabo I would not advise putting abrasive paper on a good granite plate. I would dedicate a cheap one to this job. wd-40 removes the 3M77 spray best.
Could that chamfer machine have been designed to run the part across the belt diagonally? Some belt grinding machines are designed like that to level the wear on the belt
What is the purpose behind the long toolpost stud / cover? I was considering to drill through the vise (a bit ugly), or pin the jaws with roll pins when I get round to actually doing them, but this is a great idea. Not sure if the pins would've held when clamping on the edge. That drill chuck in the toolholder is nice. There are so many details I have to watch more than once. Recently I find myself wanting a vise with the clamping surfaces parallel to the table, not sure what I'll do about that.
I made an indicator arm that mounts on that post for all lathe indicating. That way I never have to stick a mag base on the lathe. You will see it in use in some of my next videos.
Thanks ER! My digital has 99 tool offsets. The drill chuck is tool #1 and is on center at X=0. I use an indicator in the lathe spindle to set center height and X offset once and then its good forever. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Robin, can you give more information on the face mill you are using in the Bridgeport? I am in the market to purchase one. Thanks for videos, I am really enjoying your content.
Perhaps a dumb question, but why don't they tap the jaws and put through-holes in the front and back of the vice? Surely that would be an easier way to avoid ugly holes in the jaw faces?
ROBRENZ thanks, I almost had time to make one today, seems the internal thread on a 5c is like 1.047 -24. These would save time and money over soft jaws or soft collets. Glad I saw them here. Great info all around.
Robin, first I must apologize as I've been calling you Rob. Got that fixed now :-). Another awesome video. I was thinking along the same lines as a previous commenter, I would love to see a tour of you shop. But if not, I think a video series on all the cool tools you have created would be incredibly well received. Starting with the chamfer-meister. I saw that in another video of yours and wondered what that was. This one described it a little, but I suspect we would all like to learn more details. Also notice you are using a large hand wheel for the quill. Obviously you must find that more efficient than one of those quick adjust models. Finally, are you using for the CNC mill? Thanks..... Joel
Joel, no problem as many who know my name is Robin call me Rob. I promise you will eventually see everything as I work thru my video list. The jig bore style hand wheel is really nice and came from Ralmikes Tool arama many years ago. Not sure what your question was about the CNC mill.
+ROBRENZ robin, I guess I didn't proof read that very well. The CNC question was intended to ask what brand/size mill are you using? Is it something you converted too, or something purchased? The work and precision you strive for and achieve is simply amazing.
Just started watching your videos and really enjoying your work. Not sure I get all that effort to avoid a counterbore in the soft jaw, but that sine bar is really cool. If these were for the Kurt would you have fly cut them flat and square? Don't mind your fingers by the saw but that all long piece of all thread hanging out of the 5c worries me (as you said). And your collet tension sounded a little heavy :) Keep up the good work.
Thanks Gus, I just don't like having to avoid the counterbore when gripping things. And I would have finished the faces if it were for a milling vice. I find that gipping a short length on all thread it pays to be a little heavy on the collet pressure to actually deform the crest a little. If you don't then the all thread has a tendency to easily crush into a barrel shape under side loading. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Hi Robin. I wanted to ask a question about the Boron Nitride you are adding to other oils and greases. In this video you called it Tetrahedral, but I can only find Hexagonal, Cubic, etc. Previously I had assumed Hexagonal is what I needed. Stan mentioned you also mix it with Dart CMD Extreme Pressure Lube for using on dead centers, if I'm not mistaken. Hoping you can clear up my confusion.
Also this whole swapping out the jaws of a vise is something I've wanted to do for a few years now, and after watching this I think I can do it. I do have a few questions, when choosing a soft metal, copper or aluminum, you obviously need to be concerned with cross contaminating the soft metals up against the steel of the vise, you used Blue molly and something else I didn't catch that you sprayed on to the vise, I want to know what it was, and lastly would that spray be the same material to be used for copper, or would it be different?
Great video! Along with everything else I dig the large flat "stone" shown at 17:50, is there a proper name for that? I do quite a bit of flat hand grinding/sanding, but am currently using DMT sharpening stones, would love to have something that large. Any hints on finding something similar?
+Andy Lawrence That is a cast iron surface plate with 220 grit silicon carbide abrasive paper lightly glued on with 3M 77 spray adhesive. Very handy thing to have in the shop.
I know it's handy and easy to make... but a slotted screw in the year 2016? :D I'm trying to get rid of all slotted screws I have in any equipment... they're so annoying to use. ;)
Too late now, but you could have made the through-holes in the vise jaws and had the blind holes in the inserts (leaving an unholed face). Source, please, for the double-ended, socketed screws. I could find left-right threaded studs at McMaster-Carr, but without the sockets for tightening.
That is a good idea Peter and you are right it is tool late now. Here is the link for the screws at McMaster www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-insert-holder-set-screws/=13dvgkh
Weird. I wonder why my search did not find them. McMaster-Carr website is usually so good at bringing up the correct pages for a search with ambiguous or poorly-worded search terms. (Page bookmarked on the McMC website) BTW, nice coverage of the advantages and cautions for using collet stops.
Hey great vid, really enjoyed learning about those screws. Seem handy. So who do you think has the cooler chamfering tool? Yours or Stephen Gotteswinter?
It is obvious to me that you paid attention all those years as a machinist, and probably had some excellent mentoring as well. You are now mentoring in our direction, and thank you so much for that. I like how you want to have the correct tool for any given job, and are not afraid to make it, even to produce just a few parts. I do learn several new things from each of your videos, and your "best work" positive attitude is starting to rub off a bit on this old hack...
Thanks Bob, I am glad you are getting something out of these. I did work with some great people in the two shops I worked in before I went out on my own.
Thanks for all your very kind comments,
Robin
Bob Korves
Bob Korve
Yeah, I noticed zip-zap speed of someone used to pushing production throughput. There's actually a lot of ops in doing all this and he gets it done in no time. One of the few vids you don't need to start skipping to avoid the waffle and get the action ! Great stuff.
I guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my account password. I love any assistance you can give me
No one who has not seen this video will ever be able to steal those vise jaws! Very cool.
You are an efficient, energetic machinist with great skill and lots of mileage behind you. It shows in your dexterity and the apparent large backlog of tricks and techniques. I'm super happy I found your channel. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jim, many more to come.
People need to know watching your videos is far better that 100 videos that are just 5 minutes long
what we need is an in depth lesson that gives us years of inspection . we are getting trained by a master - not goings away thinking " well I understand a bit now "
Thanks, and thanks for watching and commenting.
So satisfying watching you work. I can’t tell where the hands end and the machine begins. Thanks for the videos
i just wanna say... I've watched all your videos since i found your channel last week.
Thanks!
I think it is obvious to everyone that your knowledge, efficient techniques, and orderly work methods are enviable. It must be a real distraction to have to video and edit these (especially when the clock is running and your clients are waiting for stuff to get done), but it shows the true American spirit of sharing and caring and I/we certainly appreciate it! You are also a wonderful role model for young people, and I hope that many younger viewers decide to emulate you, and consider this as a rewarding career option. We certainly could use many more talented machinists like you and far fewer 'gender studies' majors to help rebuild America. Thank you very much for sharing your vast knowledge and experience in all of your videos (I've watched a bunch of them in a row!)
Thanks Roverino for the very kind words and thanks for watching and commenting!
The "Oops, forgot my stop wasn't there" and "Better get that drill back on center" made me chuckle, because it's exactly the type of thing I do when I'm trying to hustle anytime anyone is looking over my shoulder. Good to know you're human after all! :-)
Wow I learned about 80 little tips watching this, I gotta go back and rewatch it and take notes!
I do appreciate your attention to detail even on the non critical parts/features. That's the hallmark of a master craftsman. Your time-is-money pace is refreshing to see. My students get tired of hearing, "In the real world you earn by the job, not by the hour!" You have proven that speed and accuracy are not disjoint sets! Thank you for such inspiring videos.
Thanks for the kind words Richard and very glad these are inspiring. Thanks for watching.
I get the feeling that we are watching this in near ‘real-time’
I’m amazed with the craftsmanship, AND with how fast you were doing each operation.
I really appreciate your attention to detail in this video. Not only the machining aspects, but your narration and details (such as cutting fluid type, etc.) are very helpful. No wasted words or time, enough so that I had to check to see if it was sped up a few times. I've been working my way through all your videos, thanks for your excellent content.
Nothing better than seeing the HP 48 sitting on the saddle of your mill :-). A man after my own hearth! No wonder you can't find an old beat to hell one on Ebay for less than what we paid for them back in the day! Nicely done!
That is my favorite HP calculator, I had every one before it and only tried one after it. They went the wrong direction IMO after the 48GX. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Agreed. My 48G has traveled the world with me never complaining while offering continuous support and utility. It would certainly have to be pried from my cold dead hands to force a separation at this point in time.
Enjoyed very much, great tips on making the threaded inserts with the collet stop and operations.
Thanks Bill glad you enjoyed it!
Robin is that a shop made collet stop? What is the size of the stud? From what I am seeing commercial ones seem to be 3/8-24. I am going to make one I could have used one today would have saved me a lot of time.
I have 3 and they are all purchased. That one is 3/8-16 and I have one that is 3/8-24 and one that uses 1/2 dia. solid with a setscrew flat. I just buy all thread to make a variety of styles and diameters. I like the 1/2 diameter style for its instant change of stop rod. The 3/8-16 is next favorite and the 3/8-24 takes too long to change stops even when you use a drill to spin them out.
Thanks Robin, I think I am going to try and make one with a setscrew and one with a 3/8 16 screw.
New sub here. I thought that differential screws were always two threads with different pitches in the same direction. Now I’ve learned they can be right and left hand the same pitch. I like that your shop is a little bit dirty like mine and doesn’t look like a laboratory.
This is a great idea! I have a couple Wilton vise's that I put copper jaws on, but hated the big holes. I used this technique to put copper jaws on my Starrett vise, and it's so much nicer! Thanks for the inspiration.
That chamfering tool is worthy of Tom Lipton himself - really neat Robin. Felt like I was watching this on 1.5 speed I actually had to check!
50 years ago I made a few different lengths of pipe that I slotted to go over the spindle stop screw so I wouldn’t need to spin the nuts up and down. Saves a lot of time.
I did exactly the same thing for the same reasons. Many years later I designed and patented the “Rapid-Stop” a quick release nut that mounted permanently on the Bridgeport quill. It’s no longer in production but I use mine almost every day.
Between you and thatlazymachinist, I have learned so much. Two of the best machining channels out there.
There is so much knowledge, technique and skill in your videos, I find I have to watch them a few times to take it all in.
+1 on the future Chamfer Meister video.
Subscribed
Thanks Henri L and thanks for subscribing and commenting!
A lot of great ideas, thanks. I'd love to see a video on the Chamfer Meister if possible, I've seen and made a lot of crude set-ups to make chamfers and bevels but that's great, simple and affordable.
like the use of the differential screws. Gives me a whole new perspective on working on things.
Thank you, and keep up with the great video's
Bill
Thanks Bill, glad you are finding the content usefull and thanks for watching and commenting!
Another really informative video. You are starting to get like Tom and now I have to have one browser window open to the video and another open to amazon or Wikipedia. Thanks for the lesson. You are an excellent teacher.
Man, you work fast!
Very nice work !! I found you via Tom, glad I did !! Thanks, Cliff
my attention span is honestly like 4 minutes. That said, ive rewatched this video all the way through Twice now. I was at work today trying to remember just how in the hell you did that and I got the threading all confused. Something about the way you are totally nonchalant explaining what you're doing makes it look so much easier than it is.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching and commenting.
It's nice to see a Machinist who works with speed in mind. I see these TH-cam ace machinist who while drilling clearance holes that are not that critical spot drill , drill and tap by removing the drills over and over in the same position. I have ran a machine shop for 10 years and I don't know how some these guys have stayed in business.
Thanks and thanks for watching.
Rob, do you at least know it is unnatural to be able to drive two different Allen screws at the same time, inverted towards yourself, and at different rates?
You've probably heard about the estimate of "10,000 hours to become expert" at almost anything, but you look like a man with 20,000 hours. Just phenomenal work and breadth of knowledge.
Great stuff, Robin! Thank you for sharing your obvious knowledge and skill. It is a joy to watch a master at his work.
Thanks for the very kind words Lyn
another vote for a video on the fancy chamfer tool! I've been mulling around different ideas for one, but yours is an optimal solution. Also, I love your videos! I hope I'm absorbing some of it!
Thanks Dave its on the list and thanks for watching and commenting!
That little Craftsmen belt sander / chamfering tool is really cool, I'd love to see a video on how you put this little tool together. Glad I listen to Tom and subscribed to your channel, I'm learning so much from you, and from Tom at OxTools. Keep up the cool videos, and thanks. Cheers.
Thanks that video is on the long list.
This is such a neat, unique idea that today is the third time I've watched it. I am looking forward to the chamfermeister video as well!
Thanks William and thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
Thanks for sharing , really like the skid plates on your chamfer-mister.
Thanks Ron and thanks for watching and commenting!
ROBRENZ where did the skid plates on the Chamfer-Meister come from?
Outstanding concept and execution. Your machining experience and depth of knowledge is very impressive. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks glad you enjoyed it.
Pretty creative. The "differential screw" you mention is also available through McMaster Carr under the title "Set Screws for Carbide Insert Holders". They have a selection of thread sizes.
Thanks, that is where I bought the screws. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good man.Keep sharing.
A true master of your trade sir. I pride myself as being one of a few true millwrights ( by definition ) left in industry today. And in my travels have known, worked with, and just in general have been around a lot of very good experienced, machinists over the years, and I have to say I don't think any of them had their sh#t together as well as you do.
That being said, I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos and learn something from every one of them. Thank you.
Know Dennis Danich?
@@xmachine7003 I can't say for sure that I do, however the name does seem to ring a bell. I may know someone that knows him, hell the way my memory is these days I may know him, and had worked along side of him for years and just not be able make the name connect with the memories. But it does sound familiar. I don't know how many times in the last 6 or 8 years I've been shopping or on a job and somebody walk up to and start carrying on like a family member, all while I stand there laughing, smiling, and nodding my head in approval while simultaneously trying as hard as I can to figure out who the hell this guy is. Only to figure out halfway to the parking that it was someone that I had covered 100,000 miles of roads and almost as many hours in many different hellish jobs over the years. And that's when I really start to feel my age, not mention pretty damn stupid !
Great idea with the zip-lock vacuum packed HP48! How did I not think of that? Always just used a dollar store special on the machines and kept my HP safe on the desk..
Thanks Dan and thanks for watching and commenting!
Very interesting, Robin. Good content. Turnbuckle screws/differential screws--nice application on the sine bars.
Once you have them in your mental engineering arsenal they come in handy often.
Dual-wielding Allen wrenches? That's machine-shop ninja stuff!
Subbed. great channel. You attention to detail and imaginative solutions to the problems are impressive to me. I hope i can follow along and learn some stuff to use in my own small hobby shop.
Thanks Joe and thanks for watching and commenting!
That chamfer machine is awesome!
so many awesome tips and tricks!
Nice video! Looking forward to a chamfer-meister one too!
Thanks Ed and thanks for stopping by and commenting! Its on the list.
Cool vid, thanks for taking the trouble to share your workflow. I have an ER32 collet chuck and repetitive work is a pain in the... you know what. But I kinda like that kinda work so no big deal for me. You've given me a feast of food for thought though, please keep it coming.
If you like this then make sure you go back to my "ultimate kelvin connection part1 and 2 . Don't let the electronic slant fool you this is a machining video.
@@ROBRENZ Thanks, I will do that. No worries, I'm good with electronics AND machining! RE differential screws, I think I saw a Tom Lipton vid (Repeat-O-Meter?) that gave me an idea for bed adjusters for my 3d printer, which work beautifully.
A tip Robin. Turn off image stabilization when on a tripod, and set the exposure to manual.
Excellent. Lots of ideas to improve my efficiency.
+semidemiurge Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Enjoyed...nice build and instruction
Thanks Chuck and thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
Love your content! I think it's time for a Chamfer Meister Video....please.
I must say you about scared the crap out of me removing and inserting those inserts with the saw running!
Hi William, it looks much closer in the video than it really is.
Really enjoyed the vise jaw video. I'll add a second request for you to detail the champher meister build.
FYI I missed some of your instruction when you had your back to the camera Please continue on with your machining projects...you do a great job
Thanks, many more videos to come.
Very nice, it was a while since we had your videos. Lots to learn, thanks!
+xDevs.com Thanks. Glad you liked it. Much more to come.
OMG.......I am taking up wood carving with an axe................seeing this I understand I will NEVER make it to a machinist of even 10% of Rob's calibre.....booooohooooo I luvvvvv your work Sir.
Another superb job and video! I really appreciate the way you don't waste time on the air like unnecessary talk and cut time.
Like the quill hand wheel. Didn't know that exists.
Could another approach be to cut blind key holes in back of jaws and still use same size access hole through to tighten? Then use a standard #10 bhscs in your inserts. Maybe even keep original 5/16" and increase access holes and of course larger key holes.
Then you would just loosen the screws, slide jaws, and pull off.
You have a loyal fan and subscriber here Robin. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks James and all those ideas could work. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just found your channel, love it👍👌🇦🇺
You are a gem.
I hate those big azz counterbores in vise jaws... It's like the designer never used vise.
When my wife first went to work for MSC, I was perusing the MSC 'Big Book', just to see what I could learn. I was checking out bench vises, and got to wondering what differences I could find between inexpensive and expensive vises. One thing I discovered which dramatically changed my shop life was expensive vises use Torrington thrust bearings instead of thrust washers.
Inspired by thhe info, I decided I would upgrade my vises, to see what the difference was. I measured every vise I had, even on old Japanese vise which had become a doorstop, literally, about 30 years ago.
I spent 10.00 on bearings, and swapped out 5 vises in an afternoon.
My gawd, what a difference! Take a look at any half dozen used vises, and 5 of them will have bent and beat up handles, (the other vise is still the box!) They get beat on to tighten, and beat on to loosen. Not any more.
With the Torringtons, all you have to do is give the handle a tug, and it will not come loose. When you're done, give it a tug, and it's loose.
In over 50 years of working in shops, and around tools, replacing the bushing with bearings is the single most cost effective, and impactful upgrade I have ever done.
Oh, the old Japanese doorstop? It's now a usable vise, and I had to find something else for a door stop.
Try it, you will not regret the effort.
Hey Robin,
You really should try copper. It is much different than aluminum. Softness is not the only quality that makes copper superior. Nice trick with the turnbuckle screws.
Best,
Tom
+oxtoolco Thanks, next material order I will get some and make a set. I never heard them called turnbuckle screws but that is a perfect description. Thanks for subscribing.All the best, Robin
Total agreement with Master Ox. Cu is big benefit over Al. Thank you for lesson on differential screws!
The chamfering tool is brilliant.
+cod.cape Thanks. That thing gets an immense amount of use in my shop. A chamfer machine is not a new idea but there are a lot of design features incorporated in this one that make it unique.
A complication is that if you were to build one now, you would have to get a used unit. That model that I think is a rebranded Ryobi is no longer made from what I can tell. Bosch made a similar unit too but it looks like it might also be discontinued. I am thinking the easier route if you wanted to start with a new machine. Is a benchtop belt sander.
***** I do a lot of hardened tool steel work where I want to do a very precise chamfer after finish grinding. The abrasive belt works on both hard and soft material. The axial grind lay of the belt leaves no burrs on the chamfers and I can change grit size to suit the job at hand. If you do a lot of large chamfers > .06" the belt sander will NOT be the ideal tool. Most of my chamfers are < .03"
What skills you have my friend.
Thanks John and thanks for watching and commenting!
thats a nice lathe....be nice to have one of those in the shop:)
It is beyond nice! It really is a Toolmakers dream.
A couple of interesting projects there....
Glad you are enjoying the content.
Enjoying your work. A longer view of your set ups that shows the whole machine would be appreciated. Sometimes I can't tell what type of machine you are using. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks Matthew, I will keep that in mind and thanks for watching!
Great videos! Just found your channel and am really enjoying it.
Thanks Rj Bin1971 and thanks for commenting and watching!
ATB, Robin
EXCELLENT NICE WORK
Nice idea using the insert screws.
I suppose another approach would be to drill holes right through the vice jaw, counterbored at the far end where they come out, and use conventional socket cap screws the opposite way round into blind tapped holes in the soft jaw.
Obviously there would be a (small) reduction in the strength of the vice jaws.
But there is an in-between solution staying with your insert screw idea: Did you consider routing the access hole for the allen wrench the opposite way, ie through the vice jaw rather than through the soft/loose jaw? The strength implications would be negligible, I would think, and a smooth-faced jaw (whether soft or hard) is a fine thing.
Thanks Gottenhimfella those are all valid ideas and thanks for watching and commenting!
Most people just pull the steel jaws and install soft jaws. Others use copper jaws that are "drop-in" and hang over the steel which provides a good solid backing. Others who do lots of vise work just have a big steel-jaw vice for bit heavy nasty work and a smaller "clean" vice with soft jaws. I don't think aluminum is really going to work too well for much. It doesn't grip too well.
We all love our RR time. Rob 27:15 why the ball on the other end of your stub wrench? Is that for inside the vice jaws or just a handle.
To tap the drawbar to release collets and it is a comfy handle.
Every other guy would have drilled from the backside... :-) But you found a way to leave the vice unchanged and remain compatible with existing jaws and have smaller holes. Concerning the differential screws I think this term is correct. It is just a special case where both pitches have the same value. The same is true for the rear axle differential in street vehicles which is also a special case (symmetric) of a general differential gear. We have commented about it in an earlier video: Your way to feed thin stock from the front side into a 5C collet with a back stop in it, keep the free end in your hand to avoid whipping, turn the part and part it off. It seems odd. :-) I have thought about it for a while. For small batches it has no disadvantages compared to the classic way of feeding from the backside. But I also can't see big advantages. It is just another way of doing it which works just as well for small batches.
My " tips on manual lathe high production" video shows this method also but with a stock tube in the tailstock. I think there is a distinct advantage on the parts shown. All these comments based on a manual machine with no inherent bar feeding mechanism and no automated tool changing/cnc operation. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thinking about it mathematically, I'd put these kinds of clamping screws in the same category of 'true' differential screws. If you were to define the pitch of a thread in terms of how far a land moves with one revolution (or how far it will push an object for one revolution) right and left hand threads becomes fundamentally the same thing, the difference being that one has a negative pitch.
I agree with that analysis
@@ROBRENZ you concur
Robin, at 15:55ish, did I see a pair of Knipex pliers wrenches? These, in my my opinion are awesome tools. Great video gained lots of tips and techniques. Many thanks for sharing. Are you going to Stan's bash? Kindest regards. Joe.
Hi Joe, yes Knipex and I agree they are awesome. Glad you got something out of the video. Stans is a long trip, maybe next year.
Great video Rob, really detailed and I learned a lot. I found your channel through Tom Lipton. That's a really cool box end wrench with a ball tip, i've never seen one before what is it called and what do you use it for? Thanks for making these videos it's a privilege to watch an artist like you work.
Thanks Shant Al-Saiegh, The wrench is a standard short box wrench with a steel ball brazed on one end. I use it for the mill drawbar and the ball is to tap the collets loose. Thanks for watching and commenting!
There are many comments about drilling through the back of the vice jaws. I can't help but think that either that would have to be done with a hand drill on the bench, or the vice would have to be removed from the bench and chucked up in the lathe or mill. Neither one of those seems as appealing to me as Robin's solution.
I commented to my wife..."I wonder if Robren is the smartest man in the world?" To me a novice machining learner...that answer would be "perhaps, just perhaps".
That is a great name. As a hobbyists with some skills I would never presume to call myself a Machinist or apprentice machinists ( I have too much respect for them). But I feel comfortable calling myself a novice machining learner.
1.477 ENTER. Wow, a machinist and a man that can use a real calculator!My HP41 finally died but I have an app...
Thanks, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Robin, I really enjoy your content. Great video on the vise jaws. However, you really caught my attention with your Roll-In saw modifications. Would it be possible for you to provide more detail and pictures? I would really appreciate it. Might even be a great video opportunity. Regards, Brad
Can you please do a video on how you zero out your tool post mounted drill?
Put a dowel in the drill chuck. Put a dial test indicator in the spindle. Move the center height and x position of the drill chuck to get it true to the spindle as you spin the indicator around the pin in the chuck.
Rodger that, thx
I saw the knipex pliers wrench!!
They are awesome!
Enjoyed it. I noticed you milled the aluminum to length, but didn't true up the pieces facing the jaws (the backs against the cast iron) and the space (faces) between the jaws (facing each other where stuff is clamped). Is it just because they're "soft" jaws, so they're going to get out of whack anyway, and you'd never use it as a reference surface for measuring, so no point?
Correct!
Like all dangerous operations, as long as you appeciate what and where the danger is, you should be able to mitigate it.
For instance, I know a chainsaw can be VERY dangerous so I'm VERY VERY careful with it.
Well said!
A couple of ideas about possible episodes for the future:
1) I would enjoy having a shop tour.
2)It is obvious that you likely have some "shop wisdom" about tools and/or techniques to share.
3) Any great applications/projects you have done mixing your electronics and machining hobbies?
+semidemiurge1. I may do a shop tour in the future. 2. I plan on doing lots of videos on machining and passing on whatever shop wisdom I may have.3. Have you watched any of the other videos on my channel? There is lots of electronic machining mix on there. Check out The Ultimate Kelvin Connection Part 1 and Part 2.
+ROBRENZ Great, looking forward to it. I am working my way through all of your videos now. High quality, your efforts are very much appreciated.
Hi.
What is that (17:46) flat surface where you 'sand' the blocks?
Nice saw.
Regards
SC
That is a cast iron surface plate with 220 silicon carbide paper lightly glued on with 3M 77 contact spray.
Thank you.
I suppose I can use 3M 77 in my granite flat and remove it with acetone, right?
SC
Serra Cabo I would not advise putting abrasive paper on a good granite plate. I would dedicate a cheap one to this job. wd-40 removes the 3M77 spray best.
In today's video..! Rob makes masterful mistakes :D
Could that chamfer machine have been designed to run the part across the belt diagonally? Some belt grinding machines are designed like that to level the wear on the belt
I am going to add an oscillator so the sliding carriage moves slowly back and forth over the full usable belt width all the time.
keep up the good work
Thanks mog5858 and thanks for watching and commenting!
What is the purpose behind the long toolpost stud / cover? I was considering to drill through the vise (a bit ugly), or pin the jaws with roll pins when I get round to actually doing them, but this is a great idea. Not sure if the pins would've held when clamping on the edge. That drill chuck in the toolholder is nice. There are so many details I have to watch more than once. Recently I find myself wanting a vise with the clamping surfaces parallel to the table, not sure what I'll do about that.
I made an indicator arm that mounts on that post for all lathe indicating. That way I never have to stick a mag base on the lathe. You will see it in use in some of my next videos.
very good videos ! really high quality ! i was wondering if you could do a diy bench pcb vice with your level of meticulosity :)
Any chance of seeing a featured video of the Chamfer Meister?
It is on the list but it will be a design thought process only video.
Great Video!
How do you align the Chuck on the toolpost to be on center?
Thanks ER! My digital has 99 tool offsets. The drill chuck is tool #1 and is on center at X=0. I use an indicator in the lathe spindle to set center height and X offset once and then its good forever. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Robin, can you give more information on the face mill you are using in the Bridgeport? I am in the market to purchase one. Thanks for videos, I am really enjoying your content.
I think that is an iscar with an integral R8 shank
I wonder why Robin went with Hex boron nitride rather than Tungsten Disulfide?
I have no idea.
Perhaps a dumb question, but why don't they tap the jaws and put through-holes in the front and back of the vice? Surely that would be an easier way to avoid ugly holes in the jaw faces?
Collet stop.? Never seen one , did you make them? I would love to see how they work. Could use them all the time. I use soft jaws (or collets)
These are purchased, they are available from all metalworking suppliers.
ROBRENZ thanks, I almost had time to make one today, seems the internal thread on a 5c is like 1.047 -24. These would save time and money over soft jaws or soft collets. Glad I saw them here. Great info all around.
Robin, first I must apologize as I've been calling you Rob. Got that fixed now :-). Another awesome video. I was thinking along the same lines as a previous commenter, I would love to see a tour of you shop. But if not, I think a video series on all the cool tools you have created would be incredibly well received. Starting with the chamfer-meister. I saw that in another video of yours and wondered what that was. This one described it a little, but I suspect we would all like to learn more details. Also notice you are using a large hand wheel for the quill. Obviously you must find that more efficient than one of those quick adjust models. Finally, are you using for the CNC mill? Thanks..... Joel
Joel, no problem as many who know my name is Robin call me Rob. I promise you will eventually see everything as I work thru my video list. The jig bore style hand wheel is really nice and came from Ralmikes Tool arama many years ago. Not sure what your question was about the CNC mill.
+ROBRENZ robin, I guess I didn't proof read that very well. The CNC question was intended to ask what brand/size mill are you using? Is it something you converted too, or something purchased? The work and precision you strive for and achieve is simply amazing.
I too was wondering about the CNC mill. And also what the guides on the chamerfermeister are made from (-8
The mill is a Southwestern industries Trac DPM
They are hardened and ground A2 tool steel at 60 RC
Just started watching your videos and really enjoying your work. Not sure I get all that effort to avoid a counterbore in the soft jaw, but that sine bar is really cool. If these were for the Kurt would you have fly cut them flat and square? Don't mind your fingers by the saw but that all long piece of all thread hanging out of the 5c worries me (as you said). And your collet tension sounded a little heavy :) Keep up the good work.
Thanks Gus, I just don't like having to avoid the counterbore when gripping things. And I would have finished the faces if it were for a milling vice. I find that gipping a short length on all thread it pays to be a little heavy on the collet pressure to actually deform the crest a little. If you don't then the all thread has a tendency to easily crush into a barrel shape under side loading. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Hi Robin. I wanted to ask a question about the Boron Nitride you are adding to other oils and greases. In this video you called it Tetrahedral, but I can only find Hexagonal, Cubic, etc. Previously I had assumed Hexagonal is what I needed. Stan mentioned you also mix it with Dart CMD Extreme Pressure Lube for using on dead centers, if I'm not mistaken. Hoping you can clear up my confusion.
I should not rely on memory! Cubic is the abrasive, hexagonal is the lubricative also called white graphite. google ZYP coatings for info.
Awesome. Thank you!
Also this whole swapping out the jaws of a vise is something I've wanted to do for a few years now, and after watching this I think I can do it. I do have a few questions, when choosing a soft metal, copper or aluminum, you obviously need to be concerned with cross contaminating the soft metals up against the steel of the vise, you used Blue molly and something else I didn't catch that you sprayed on to the vise, I want to know what it was, and lastly would that spray be the same material to be used for copper, or would it be different?
No contamination or electrolysis issues with jaw materials I am aware of. I think I used LPS3 for long term rust protection on the jaw interface
Great video! Along with everything else I dig the large flat "stone" shown at 17:50, is there a proper name for that? I do quite a bit of flat hand grinding/sanding, but am currently using DMT sharpening stones, would love to have something that large. Any hints on finding something similar?
+Andy Lawrence That is a cast iron surface plate with 220 grit silicon carbide abrasive paper lightly glued on with 3M 77 spray adhesive. Very handy thing to have in the shop.
whata freakin master
I know it's handy and easy to make... but a slotted screw in the year 2016? :D
I'm trying to get rid of all slotted screws I have in any equipment... they're so annoying to use. ;)
Too late now, but you could have made the through-holes in the vise jaws and had the blind holes in the inserts (leaving an unholed face).
Source, please, for the double-ended, socketed screws. I could find left-right threaded studs at McMaster-Carr, but without the sockets for tightening.
That is a good idea Peter and you are right it is tool late now. Here is the link for the screws at McMaster www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-insert-holder-set-screws/=13dvgkh
Weird. I wonder why my search did not find them. McMaster-Carr website is usually so good at bringing up the correct pages for a search with ambiguous or poorly-worded search terms. (Page bookmarked on the McMC website)
BTW, nice coverage of the advantages and cautions for using collet stops.
I love your videos, What grinder coolant do you use?
Thanks, Houghton HOUCUT 795-MP Around $290.00 for 5 gallons. Well worth it. I use the same coolant on the lathes just different concentrations.
Hey great vid, really enjoyed learning about those screws. Seem handy.
So who do you think has the cooler chamfering tool? Yours or Stephen Gotteswinter?
Thanks and thanks for watching and commenting! Stefans is better for larger chamfers, mine can do hardened materials. They both are cool.