Making stitching holes in thick leather. Leather can be pretty thick. Lets make some stitching holes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2023
- In this video, learn how to effortlessly create stitching holes in thick leather for sewing, a crucial skill for any leather craftsman. Some leathercrafting projects can get pretty thick, like knife sheaths. Join me as we explore the process, We will use a drill press providing ideas to ensure a clean, professional finish.
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Just finished a knife sheath for my wife. With bloodied and sore fingers, I wish I had watched this video before I started. Thanks
I feel ya, That is what inspired the video. :) has to be an easier way.
I use the chisel to make fairly deep holes. Then I take the absolutely skinniest drill bit and drill through. That way it doesn’t change the appearance of the topside stitch holes. I take my stitching awl and push it in the backside. Thanks for making this video!
Great idea! I can see how that would work well. Thank you for the info! :)
Great video!
Thank you again HeX!
I recently began Leatherworking, and came across this problem with my 1st knife sheath. I was using 4mm thick 10oz leather like yourself. After 2 ruined attempts, I decided to try something nobody else I have seen attempted. I have a laser machine that I'm fluent in its use. In short, I use the laser to cut out the Front, Welt, & Back of the sheath. After some trial & error using scrap, I quickly determined the proper speed & power of the laser to make 1.0 mm, 1.2 mm & 1.5 mm clean holes in the leather. The stitch line (holes) are cut first, then the outline of all 3 pieces are cut using standard 1/8" gap. Beacuse the laser is precision, all the pieces and corresponding stitch holes line up, exactly. After glue up and stitching, the ony thing left is a quick sand to remove the burnt edges. The pattern is pretty quick to make as well. After tracing the blade on plain paper, it is scanned using a flatbed scanner. That outline is brought into Corel Draw, turned into a vector outline, which is then imported into lightburn (laser cutter software). The end result is a pretty much perfect sheath that looks as though an automated machine made it. No more wasted leather, no more human error during the critical cut/punch phase of the build.
Thank you for your detailed explanation. If you check out my channel you will see many videos on using lasers with leather. What did you do about the soot that ends up in the stitching holes? I find if I do not use a dark thread it can show up on your stitching. I would love to see an image of the finished craft. Thank you for you awesome comment and shared technique. :)
@@baronleathercraft I must admit that I use 1mm Black Ritza Tiger, exclusively. The biggest challeng I found to using a Laser, is having a large enough bed size. The back piece of the sheath must include the belt loop as well. On my machine, my sheath took the overall lenght to 67mm past its limit. It took me a long time to figure out how to pull this off. Once the leather is moved, it must be lined up EXACTLY to finish the rest of the cut. I will indeed watch your other videos. Thanx !
@@kennethrich2107 Wow! Moving the material to continue to cut is very brave. Almost surgical. :) I find I run into the same issue, my honeycomb bed is 400X400 and I might get a bigger one for this reason. Anything I make that is to big to cut I end up cutting by hand. I would rather not and use the laser as well.
@@baronleathercraft I took the remainder of the beltloop portion of the sheath, and "cut" it using the node editor in lightburn. After carefully measuring the remander of the loop vs what I had already cut, i had a separate "shape" remaining. Using basically 2 parrallel lines of a different cut layer, I used those 2 lines as a guide for the laser. Using the "outline" function is useless as a way to line things up. I set the power very low and the speed semi low, and actually did a "cut". The laser beam is visible, and actually traces the excact path of the actual cut. Like in your video, a very low power setting is used to not leave a mark. After confirming everything is lined up exactly, then the remaining portion of the belt loop "shape" is moved into position in lightburn. Putting the leather in place, the remaining portion to be cut is ran in in very low power mode to make certain everything is lined up. In other words, the ramaing part to be cut is in line with what is already cut. after confirmed, then its cut for real. If your off a teeny tiny bit, no worries as the sanding will take care of that. Hope this makes sense.
@@kennethrich2107 Yes, it makes sense but a video would be even better. You should share these ideas and techniques on your youtube channel. You might have fun and I know I am a big fan of learning new things as I hope most people are.
I like to use a #23 or 24 sewing machine needle running in my drill press. I use harness needles for the sewing.
I will give it a try. It is time to restock up on some needles; Thank you for the insight!
Watching this I noticed that the needle bends slightly. Have you considered using a round awl blade instead? They’re a bit more robust.
I also noticed this while editing the video. Yes I think that a round awl blade would be a great and needed addition. Thank you!
you should try to not leave so much of needle left out of chuck. chuck it up just enough were needle passes slightly pass thicknes of leather and you want have so much flex in your needle.
Thank you. :) I noticed the flex while editing the video. Thank you for the advice. It does help keep the bottom hole straighter as well.
nice idea to punch holes in heavy leather , If you add a guide will be more easy , Thank you very much
Thank you for the comment! Do you mean something that I can prop the leather up against to make the job smoother and simpler?
@@baronleathercraft yes , exactly 😏
@@omarleather-craftsman9760 Yes, that would speed things up and add much more accuracy. It should be simple to come up with something. Thank you.😀