How to tie-in with a Scott's Locked Bowline: An excellent knot for rock climbing

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 39

  • @Papershields001
    @Papershields001 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I’ve tried to switch over entirely to the EBSB, but Scott’s is a fantastic and secure knot. I think a big benefit is that it’s fairly easy to teach. I prefer the EBSB for checking tho, for whatever reason it seems more straightforward to check to my eye.

  • @thomashamilton6073
    @thomashamilton6073 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Beautifully explained and illustrated, Davide! Thanks, it will be my knot from now on. Abbondanza! Stay safe, and have blessed holidays! "The rabbit comes out of the hole, goes around the tree, and goes back down the hole (and then locks itself off!)".

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Thank you Thomas! Hahaha yes I like the rabbit analogy :-)

  • @tanguerochas
    @tanguerochas ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have been teaching knots to sailors for more than a decade and am a member of the IGKT. Scott's locked bowline is one of my favorites, for sailors as well as climbers.

  • @JesseUnderscoreMartin
    @JesseUnderscoreMartin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Interesting video. I think it's worth knowing how to tie and inspect many different tie-in knots.
    Personally I will continue to use the fig8 for tying in as it is the most common knot used in my area (USA), and is super easy to inspect. However I can definitely see the usefulness of the bowline for situations such as anchors (as a fig8 could become extremely difficult to untie after TRing) or for situations which require ring loading.
    All in all, great presentation of information!

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Thank you Jesse! I found it to be a very practical, reliable, and useful knot. I also taught it to many of my climbing partners, and they learned it very quickly!

    • @bigoldgrizzly
      @bigoldgrizzly 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DavideFossati
      given the number of folks who need to use hammers picks pliers and the like to untie jammed fig 8s all of which have the potential for rope damage [often unseen] concentrated in the knot position of the rope, I think the ease of untying the bowline offers a safety advantage over the fig 8, as some folks are more meticulous than others when it comes to cutting off stressed areas of rope

  • @bigoldgrizzly
    @bigoldgrizzly 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    In my son's regular climbing group they have all gone over to the EBSB secure bowline. It only takes a few seconds longer to tie than the Scott's, is arguably more secure and it is the work of seconds to alter the size of the loop, even if the knot has been tied, dressed and tightened.
    I'm not a climber but I now use the Scott's bowline for all general farm and occasional tree work.
    Like any knot it does need to be tied correctly from the start [nice demonstration] and then practiced till you can tie and check it on your harness or on somebody else's 100 times out of a hundred and all in the pitch dark....... and yes - I do put prunes on my all bran and I also wear belt and braces ['suspenders' across the pond] :

  • @SS369963
    @SS369963 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    I think you did the knot justice with your video. Scott (SS369)

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Thank you Scott! It is a really good knot with so many great properties. My friends and I are using it regularly for rock climbing, and we all love it!

    • @SS369963
      @SS369963 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@DavideFossati Keep teaching it well. Be safe and get high. ;-)

  • @Sifo_Dyas
    @Sifo_Dyas 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Perfect vantage point to illustrate any knot--the same vantage point that the tier will have!

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you! To recreate that point of view, I simply filmed it from the front with a slight angle, and then rotated the video 180 degrees in post-production.

    • @Sifo_Dyas
      @Sifo_Dyas 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      ​@@DavideFossati Hi! Smart.
      I looked at some of your other videos. Christian. Singer. Musician. Mountain climber. Professor. And knot hound. You're a good guy. Don't sweat the distractions on IGKT.

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Sifo_Dyas Thank you!

    • @Sifo_Dyas
      @Sifo_Dyas 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DavideFossati Hope to see more knot demonstrations from you.

  • @OffBelay_
    @OffBelay_ 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Been using the yosemite bowline. Love this one even more.

  • @neitzsche5150
    @neitzsche5150 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Davide, this was an outstanding demonstration of the efficiency of the bowline compared to the standard figure 8 on a bight. There is a real bias against the bowline in the climbing community because it is considered 'dangerous'. Lynn Hill, the famous American climber who was the first female to free climb El Capitan used a bowline improperly, and almost died when the bowline untied itself. When she tied into her harness, she did not finish the bowline with the Scott's Locked Bowline, and the result was nearly fatal. She fell about 26 meters, and only broke a few bones. Thank you for making a video on the benefits (and safety features) of the bowline when it is properly tied.

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you Robert!

    • @22jayu
      @22jayu 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      She actually did not complete a figure 8.

  • @bestknots
    @bestknots ปีที่แล้ว

    You could use Cowboy bowline as the basis, instead. That way the knot could be tied in a bight; I have a video in my channel about that.

  • @julianchua89
    @julianchua89 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Enjoyed the clear and easy-to-follow instruction. Quick question: How is this when compared with the yosemite bowline? Thanks!

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      The Yosemite finish for the simple bowline is trickier: it's not as secure as the Scott's locking maneuver, i.e., it still has a chance to get undone by itself as the climber moves around, unless you tie an additional stopper knot. That's why it's not listed as an "inherently secure" bowline in the "Bowline Analysis" paper on the PACI website linked in the description.

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you Julian I'm glad you enjoyed this video!

    • @julianchua89
      @julianchua89 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@DavideFossati Thank you! Looking forward to your next video :)

    • @JesseUnderscoreMartin
      @JesseUnderscoreMartin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DavideFossati Is there somewhere else I can find information about the Bowline Analysis? The file on the PACI website is password protected unfortunately.

    • @JesseUnderscoreMartin
      @JesseUnderscoreMartin 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Oh.... If I slow down and read carefully... I will see that the password is on the webpage ☺️

  • @andrewhunter6536
    @andrewhunter6536 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi, do you see any advantage of this knot vs the other 4 inherently stable bowlines? How does one choose between the five?

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I like it because it's the easiest to tie. The others are very good too, so it's just a matter of personal preference.

    • @AMC-eq3jr
      @AMC-eq3jr ปีที่แล้ว

      Learn the EBSB and you won't regret it. Once you get the full understanding of the knot, you will stake your life on it. It is beautiful, compact, and easy to verify.

  • @bcrowell3
    @bcrowell3 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This seems like a fine instructional video, but it seems to me that since the rewoven figure eight is virtually a universal standard for this application, is easy to tie and dress, and is easy for your partner to check, people should generally stick with that unless there is some very strong and compelling reason to use something else. If the compelling reason is supposed to be that the bowline is easier to untie after it's been dynamically loaded, then I would say (a) it's easy to learn to untie a tight figure eight if someone shows you how to separate the two strands on top first, and (b) even if you want to use a bowline for this reason, there ways to do it that are easier to learn and inspect. Just use a fisherman's knot (i.e., half of a double fisherman's knot) on the loop. This backup method prevents the knot from working itself apart, is easy to inspect, and keeps the tail out of the way when leading.

    • @clayfullmer
      @clayfullmer 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Figures 8s fuse. They are standard because they work and are super super easy to check. That's really nice. They are not best objectively compared to 6+ other knot options out there that are inherently stable, and don't fuse, take less rope, and done need a knot to start your next knot.

  • @markifi
    @markifi 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    not that i'd ever, but out of curiosity, how does this respond to transverse loading?

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I think I remember reading that this knot is resistant to transverse loading, but I'll double-check and get back to you!

  • @kachingwohoo
    @kachingwohoo ปีที่แล้ว

    Does a safety knot / stopper knot need to be tied on top of this as a back up?

    • @DavideFossati
      @DavideFossati  ปีที่แล้ว

      An extra stopper knot is not necessary because the main knot is already stable. However I often do it anyway to get rid of the excess tail.

    • @kachingwohoo
      @kachingwohoo ปีที่แล้ว

      @@DavideFossati thank you : )