***GUYS*** Thanks for watching. I’m SO close to 10k subs…if you’re not subscribed yet you’d be doing me a huge favor if you could! Thanks! (Quick Subscribe: rennch.com/youtube) SUPPORT THE RENNCH SPONSORS BY GIVING THEM A CLICK AND A LOOK! TRE Motorsports - One of the coolest Porsche customizing and Tuning Shops in the world: rennch.com/tre Restoration Design - Vintage Porsche Body Panels and OEM Wiring Harnesses: rennch.com/rd CSF Radiators - The top radiator/intercooler/oil cooler company in the land: rennch.com/csf CSF King Cooler - The most compact, most efficient radiator for your conversion: rennch.com/kingcooler Classic Retrofit - Amazing Air Conditioning for your Vintage Porsche: rennch.com/ac Autobahn Parts - Best resource for used Porsche parts: rennch.com/autobahn Eastwood - Every fabrication tool you need for your garage: rennch.com/eastwood URO Parts - OEM Vintage Porsche Replacement Parts (Seals, etc..) rennch.com/uro
At last! Someone who approaches a build the way i do. I too have a madness to my methods. Not afraid to utilize and modify things as received on an old racecar. Keep it up!
Lovely fit of the radiators - great work! You're really burning the midnight oil here. I get about one day per week (if that) on my project car (family, work, etc. get first dibs of my time) so your rate of progress is fascinating.
Looking good Bud. Couple things is you need to make a some sort of block or dam to prevent any air from the bumper cold side getting around the rads. Basically inside the wheel well is a low pressure area, and it’s this low pressure that will pull air through the rads. That’s why you need to seal off the hot, low pressure side from the cold high pressure side.
Those things are jewellery! Similar problem before, try T-ing the feed to the rads so they work independently then T-ing the return to the motor. One rad will be doing more work and it makes the second one less effective. Just a thought based on my experience. Keep it awesome!
@anothy parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
I'd agree with a few comments, namely plumb them in parallel and if you can flip the pipework to the back sides. If you are not familiar I'd check out the 996 intercooler ducting to get ideas for your exit ducts, I think going straight down into the underfloor flow would help draw out the air leaving a really nice sealed set of ducting..
CSF Radiators @anothy parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
great build, looking forward. put the radiator on the driver-side a bit back because if someone hit your bumper while parking in or out it cracks the fiberglas or the cooler. high five my friend!
Nice job man, I'm not sure about the hose routine near the wheel / suspension etc. you might want to be sure there is enough clearance when the wheels are at full lock etc. KEEP IT UP!
@@rennch. not seeing it in person it is a bit hard to say, but maybe flip them with the inlet pipes facing in and try and run the coolant pipes more in the under hood area, also if you are going to run them in series then obviously you can try and orient them so that the out of the fist one and the in of the second one are on the inside side of the car so you just have a jumper pipe connecting them across the front under that apron thing maybe. I'm sure you will figure something out, all part of the process, keep it up!
Great built so far.👍🔧💪 Why not turn the coolers around? In that way you would not have the hoses in your wheel arch? 🤔 Plus the piping between the two coolers are pointed towards each other. Easier fitment. Just an idea.🤔😉
Cool project Thanks, the radiators need to be in parallel not series. I have the Porsche radiator plumbing and that is how they and others do mutli radiators.
CSF Radiators @Anthony Parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
@@rennch. Thanks for the feed back, I run a Subaru EG33 (Flat 6 3.3l) in my race car and those engines would blow all the coolant out at high revs due to cavitation. Your coolant pipes going to the front may need to be smaller then you think. You need to reduce flow at high revs. From that stand point having the radiators in series will help. Don't forget to install a expansion bottle at the highest point in the engine bay.
@@anthonyparle7342 Great tips. I was going to do one in the frunk. Is that not the right call? Tell me more about the coolant pipes? Right now I have 1" aluminum tubes (-16) going from engine compartment to the front. It's what Porsche uses. Any thoughts on that?
@@rennch. 1 inch is good. The next comment is just what I have found, Porsche and Subaru have the thermostat on the inlet of the water pump pretty well all other car companies have the thermostat on the outlet from the engine. What I did was move the thermostat to the outlet of the block, to prevent cavitation I reduce the ID of the outlet. I also decided to run a thermostat on each bank but the outlet size of each is only 14mm ID. Because the engine is NA I can rev to 7,500 and never have a cooling issue. You need the expansion tank above the engine as the bottom of the tank has a small return line that goes into the suction of the water pump. This lets air and coolant to separate.
You’re so rad.....nice work. A little fearful of those 90 degree bends required to get coolant in and out of each rad....the water pump is gonna have to work overtime for sure.
High Five, great build, enthusiasm and energy. One thing though, please cover up your other lovely car when grinding and welding. It will kill your paint! Keep up the good work!
Wish he cut a little further up to open the airway further just a little more air volume at once because those ducts are pretty big and it would be a waste to not utilise the cooling available.
Michael, the build is coming along just awesomely! But I have a question that is also placed by others below and your answer concerns me- you keep saying this is essentially the exact same solution Porsche uses on all their modern cars- with the twin radiators in front- which is true- but the mounting/ airflow on them is exactly the opposite. The airflow comes through the forward facing radiators in the wheel well and exit's into the wheel BEHIND the radiator. Although with the awesome center scoop I think you'll capture enough incoming air- I'm concerned that all the pressure to exhaust that air will be wrong with the "pull" fans essentially facing forward (although at an angle) and having to fight airflow and physics as you travel at speed down the road. All Porsche modern cars have large incoming air vents in front of the fender mounted radiators so the flow is consistently front to back- just something to think about- time will tell if the airflow works this way- but it will surprise the hell out of me if it does. It goes against airflow dynamics too much in my experience (which is limited) to ask the air to come through the center splitter and make its way back through the radiator and back forward again to that degree- but I hope I'm wrong because they look awesome and your fabbing skills are going off the charts!
Great work as always but, just out of interest, why are you not using the metal folders you made to make a better bend than hitting with a hammer in the vice?
Nice content in your videos, I have a question, since you have shaved the droplists and still have not cut open the front fenders, why don't you do a Ruf "Yellowbird" widening in the rear and keep the standard front, you can still fit 8 and 10 inch wide wheels and keep a clean and classic look?
Wow, that fits perfectly!! great build. I was looking for an inexpensive rust free ford ranger as well as a 911 and imagine that I found the ranger first. I bought a running ,driving, inspected 4wd extended cab 1999 ranger with one rust spot on the frame in front of the shock mount for 500$ and it cost me 350$ to rent the uhaul and get it to my house. I am building a welding rig with a knuckle boom crane and then the 911 should show up...lol Glad everything is going great!
@@rennch. Thank you my friend. I actually located two in a yard near a friend's house in Pennsacola Florida. I have not gotten down there to see if they are still there but if they are and I can get down there I am absolutely picking one of them up if I can afford it. Even a Swiss Cheese looking 911 is going for ridiculous prices. you really lucked out with yours. Happy New Years .
High Five !!!! Would an "S" spoiler give you an extra inch or two for clearance, Clarence? Also, quick question... are you going to be painting the Blasphomy Build yourself?
Michael...Dead Sexy Cooling...ha ha ha! Is the lower driver side radiator causing the issue? Can you raise it a bit or does it need to be angled back a little to clear? Project is coming along great though! Happy New Year Man, cheers 🍻
🖐! I was wondering if the bumper is not blocking the air intake on the front or can the fans do the job without the need for the car to move forward to have sufficient airflow? Your building skills are great, especially with the tools you have and use. I love the 911 since childhood but as an IT expert I would not dare to start a project like this on my own. But love to watch how you progress!
I reckon the air path for these rads is too convoluted. It looks like they're exhausting forwards... Better I think to have them directly in front of the front wheels with ducting from the oil cooler scoop exhausting into the wheel well. Still, I hope this works for you - it's a great project!
Hey Mike, another awesome video. Good luck with that left-hand side radiator. It looks like its on a different angle from the right one. Also, one question, how do you find the electric air-conditioner in the grey ghost, now you have lived with it for 2 years?
Thanks man! I'm going to do a little "refresh" of the radiator and add a 2nd condenser to it..sometime in the next couple months. But it's badass and awesome, and I love it!
Those rads are cool! (Pun intended!) Be mindful of the air discharge, may cause front end lift if not dealt with Have you considered running them in parallel rather than series?
CSF Radiators @anothy parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
@@rennch. Mike, i'm a novice but wouldn't it be a good idea to have Hot water in at the leasing edge of the rad (front end) and cooled water exiting on the trailing edges? Physics nightmare!
Wouldn’t it be better to run the coolant hoses like Nissan S13 guys tuck their harness inside their fenders? Then it should be enough room for the wheels to turn and the hose should come from the top of the radiator. i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn257/KILLERSKITTLE/44af1267.jpg
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***GUYS*** Thanks for watching. I’m SO close to 10k subs…if you’re not subscribed yet you’d be doing me a huge favor if you could! Thanks! (Quick Subscribe: rennch.com/youtube)
SUPPORT THE RENNCH SPONSORS BY GIVING THEM A CLICK AND A LOOK!
TRE Motorsports - One of the coolest Porsche customizing and Tuning Shops in the world: rennch.com/tre
Restoration Design - Vintage Porsche Body Panels and OEM Wiring Harnesses: rennch.com/rd
CSF Radiators - The top radiator/intercooler/oil cooler company in the land: rennch.com/csf
CSF King Cooler - The most compact, most efficient radiator for your conversion: rennch.com/kingcooler
Classic Retrofit - Amazing Air Conditioning for your Vintage Porsche: rennch.com/ac
Autobahn Parts - Best resource for used Porsche parts: rennch.com/autobahn
Eastwood - Every fabrication tool you need for your garage: rennch.com/eastwood
URO Parts - OEM Vintage Porsche Replacement Parts (Seals, etc..) rennch.com/uro
This guy needs more subscribers !! Major building skills
From your mouth to God's ears Marc! Thanks man...appreciate you hanging out!
At last!
Someone who approaches a build the way i do. I too have a madness to my methods. Not afraid to utilize and modify things as received on an old racecar.
Keep it up!
That mockup foam is a great idea! Creeping up on 10K subscribers, way to go!!!!
Hello from South Africa - great build, really enjoying it.
That front end has come a long way. It’s cool that you get to take advantage of the custom scoops. Looks great!
Yea, those radiators are something else!!
Lovely fit of the radiators - great work! You're really burning the midnight oil here. I get about one day per week (if that) on my project car (family, work, etc. get first dibs of my time) so your rate of progress is fascinating.
A dude wants a high five, a dude gets a crisp high five! 🙋🏻♂️ ✋🏻 Greetings from Finland!
Hi five Mikko! Thanks man!
Things are moving quickly!
I have a feeling the november deadline will come sooner than I expect!
You are making great use of the race car fabrication and the fit looks great!
Yea man...can't waste that engineering!
That’s a big win mate. Great work as always 👍🙂
Man I wish I came across your build earlier!
Really enjoying following this build
John, thanks man! it's fun to build!
Looking good Bud.
Couple things is you need to make a some sort of block or dam to prevent any air from the bumper cold side getting around the rads.
Basically inside the wheel well is a low pressure area, and it’s this low pressure that will pull air through the rads. That’s why you need to seal off the hot, low pressure side from the cold high pressure side.
I’ll be doing all of that. This was step 1.
Your doing a great job Michael. I look forward to your videos. I love the radiator fitment. Plus, you're entertaining! Cheers
Thanks Mike!
mike, the rads kick ass! looking forward to seeing them dirty! the oven progresses here in spain. (flatnose flatnose.... you know you want to....)
So great seeing this one come together! I’m binging because I missed a few episodes :)
Great just amazing how you can do it. ( I've been a racer with Korean automaker )
Those things are jewellery! Similar problem before, try T-ing the feed to the rads so they work independently then T-ing the return to the motor. One rad will be doing more work and it makes the second one less effective. Just a thought based on my experience.
Keep it awesome!
Thanks Grant! Going to try series first, and if it doesn't do the job, we'll go parallel!
Nice work mate. Your neighbours must hate you banging and grinding into the night ;)
Are you talking about on the car, or...?
@@rennch. HAHAHAA
just binge-watched the series, great work! it looks like your welds are getting better
Great work it come along way , I’ve watched every episode.
❄️ awesome progress. Happy new year Michael.
Happy New Year Sean! Thanks for hanging out!
Nice work. Getting there. I hope those sugar scoop headlights are heading for the bin!
Oh, we've got some SERIOUS headlight and taillight porn coming.
@anothy parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
Going well - I like the top tip and will be using the foam template idea. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mick! Great for mockups!
I'd agree with a few comments, namely plumb them in parallel and if you can flip the pipework to the back sides. If you are not familiar I'd check out the 996 intercooler ducting to get ideas for your exit ducts, I think going straight down into the underfloor flow would help draw out the air leaving a really nice sealed set of ducting..
CSF Radiators
@anothy parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
I love you ! You made my future 996 swap possible ! I beg you make it and ship it world wide 😃 Love your content and have a good year !!!
That’s the plan!
Top work as always, Michael. You've done your research!
Many thanks KingCal!
Another great video of your build!
Thanks Steve, Glad you like it!
great build, looking forward. put the radiator on the driver-side a bit back because if someone hit your bumper while parking in or out it cracks the fiberglas or the cooler. high five my friend!
Good call Shenpen! Thanks man!
this car is going to be amazing
YO Dragon! Thanks man...I think so!
Nice job man, I'm not sure about the hose routine near the wheel / suspension etc. you might want to be sure there is enough clearance when the wheels are at full lock etc. KEEP IT UP!
Just realize that by the time you guys see it, I’ve researched it for probably 12 hours. But as always, I’m open to new suggestions.
@@rennch. not seeing it in person it is a bit hard to say, but maybe flip them with the inlet pipes facing in and try and run the coolant pipes more in the under hood area, also if you are going to run them in series then obviously you can try and orient them so that the out of the fist one and the in of the second one are on the inside side of the car so you just have a jumper pipe connecting them across the front under that apron thing maybe. I'm sure you will figure something out, all part of the process, keep it up!
Great built so far.👍🔧💪
Why not turn the coolers around? In that way you would not have the hoses in your wheel arch? 🤔
Plus the piping between the two coolers are pointed towards each other. Easier fitment. Just an idea.🤔😉
Great work mate
Jamie, thanks Mate! 👍
Great work again. Happy new year!!!
Thanks Adrian!
Funny, first you show us the mock up poly radiator, but use the nice shiny new one to fit it up. Any scratches yet 😳 Great vid as always 👍
Cool project Thanks, the radiators need to be in parallel not series. I have the Porsche radiator plumbing and that is how they and others do mutli radiators.
CSF Radiators
@Anthony Parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
@@rennch. Thanks for the feed back, I run a Subaru EG33 (Flat 6 3.3l) in my race car and those engines would blow all the coolant out at high revs due to cavitation. Your coolant pipes going to the front may need to be smaller then you think. You need to reduce flow at high revs. From that stand point having the radiators in series will help. Don't forget to install a expansion bottle at the highest point in the engine bay.
@@anthonyparle7342 Great tips. I was going to do one in the frunk. Is that not the right call? Tell me more about the coolant pipes? Right now I have 1" aluminum tubes (-16) going from engine compartment to the front. It's what Porsche uses. Any thoughts on that?
@@rennch. 1 inch is good. The next comment is just what I have found, Porsche and Subaru have the thermostat on the inlet of the water pump pretty well all other car companies have the thermostat on the outlet from the engine. What I did was move the thermostat to the outlet of the block, to prevent cavitation I reduce the ID of the outlet. I also decided to run a thermostat on each bank but the outlet size of each is only 14mm ID. Because the engine is NA I can rev to 7,500 and never have a cooling issue. You need the expansion tank above the engine as the bottom of the tank has a small return line that goes into the suction of the water pump. This lets air and coolant to separate.
@@anthonyparle7342 Super helpful. Send me your number, lol.
You’re so rad.....nice work. A little fearful of those 90 degree bends required to get coolant in and out of each rad....the water pump is gonna have to work overtime for sure.
I'm going to be getting a super turbo water pump. :)
High Five, great build, enthusiasm and energy. One thing though, please cover up your other lovely car when grinding and welding. It will kill your paint! Keep up the good work!
Why am I liking the fender-delete look?? .... the “rads” look 👀 great!
Tony, you're probably a fan of the slant nose look too! It's kinda similar!
Great work and very inspiring. Slowly getting there. Happy New Year by the way👍 🇬🇮
Thanks Juan Carlos!!
Another cool, rad vidjo! 👍🏼🤘🏼
HNY!🥳
Ryan, happy new year man!
im not into porsches but this is a really cool project. grats.
Thanks Minus! It's kind of a weird one. :)
Looks amazing!!
Thanks Christopher!
Wish he cut a little further up to open the airway further just a little more air volume at once because those ducts are pretty big and it would be a waste to not utilise the cooling available.
killer content as always!
Sudseh! Thanks for being here man!
Put some rubber bushings on the radiator mounts, otherwise you will fatigue the brackets and radiators
Thanks james! Right now just a dry fit!
Michael, the build is coming along just awesomely! But I have a question that is also placed by others below and your answer concerns me- you keep saying this is essentially the exact same solution Porsche uses on all their modern cars- with the twin radiators in front- which is true- but the mounting/ airflow on them is exactly the opposite. The airflow comes through the forward facing radiators in the wheel well and exit's into the wheel BEHIND the radiator. Although with the awesome center scoop I think you'll capture enough incoming air- I'm concerned that all the pressure to exhaust that air will be wrong with the "pull" fans essentially facing forward (although at an angle) and having to fight airflow and physics as you travel at speed down the road. All Porsche modern cars have large incoming air vents in front of the fender mounted radiators so the flow is consistently front to back- just something to think about- time will tell if the airflow works this way- but it will surprise the hell out of me if it does. It goes against airflow dynamics too much in my experience (which is limited) to ask the air to come through the center splitter and make its way back through the radiator and back forward again to that degree- but I hope I'm wrong because they look awesome and your fabbing skills are going off the charts!
Great work as always but, just out of interest, why are you not using the metal folders you made to make a better bend than hitting with a hammer in the vice?
Lol...I didn't even think of it at the time. Rookie mistake.
Nice content in your videos, I have a question, since you have shaved the droplists and still have not cut open the front fenders, why don't you do a Ruf "Yellowbird" widening in the rear and keep the standard front, you can still fit 8 and 10 inch wide wheels and keep a clean and classic look?
This one is all planned out, but anything is possible in the future!
Love the bad jokes, they do make me laugh! 😂
love this build ! - 🙌
Thank you jacob!!
Wow, that fits perfectly!! great build. I was looking for an inexpensive rust free ford ranger as well as a 911 and imagine that I found the ranger first. I bought a running ,driving, inspected 4wd extended cab 1999 ranger with one rust spot on the frame in front of the shock mount for 500$ and it cost me 350$ to rent the uhaul and get it to my house. I am building a welding rig with a knuckle boom crane and then the 911 should show up...lol Glad everything is going great!
Yea, these things are getting as rare as chicken lips. Good luck with the projects!
@@rennch. Thank you my friend. I actually located two in a yard near a friend's house in Pennsacola Florida. I have not gotten down there to see if they are still there but if they are and I can get down there I am absolutely picking one of them up if I can afford it. Even a Swiss Cheese looking 911 is going for ridiculous prices. you really lucked out with yours. Happy New Years .
Hi Will it be difficult to fit the hoses not so much room will it be a AN coupling ?? It will be interesting to see how you solved that one.
LOTS of room in there Ake. Hard to show on Video.
Nice stuffs 🤙🏼🙌🏻
Thanks Blakob!
Why the ez3.0r instead of the 3.6 ?
Do you think there is an impact by reversing the air flow direction?
Not at all. It's a wind tunnel in there.
High Five !!!! Would an "S" spoiler give you an extra inch or two for clearance, Clarence? Also, quick question... are you going to be painting the Blasphomy Build yourself?
Michael...Dead Sexy Cooling...ha ha ha! Is the lower driver side radiator causing the issue? Can you raise it a bit or does it need to be angled back a little to clear?
Project is coming along great though! Happy New Year Man, cheers 🍻
Yea, I did a bit of both. Happy New Year Shane! Thanks for hanging out!
🖐!
I was wondering if the bumper is not blocking the air intake on the front or can the fans do the job without the need for the car to move forward to have sufficient airflow?
Your building skills are great, especially with the tools you have and use.
I love the 911 since childhood but as an IT expert I would not dare to start a project like this on my own. But love to watch how you progress!
The bumper will have a hole in front.
👌🏻 super!
Thank you DIMA!
Getting there👌🏽
Imre, progress every day!
I am so fucking jealous
looks like the tires may rub when at full lock
I reckon the air path for these rads is too convoluted. It looks like they're exhausting forwards... Better I think to have them directly in front of the front wheels with ducting from the oil cooler scoop exhausting into the wheel well. Still, I hope this works for you - it's a great project!
We should be good to go. I'm mimicking all current 911's, caymans, and boxsters.
Hey Mike, another awesome video. Good luck with that left-hand side radiator. It looks like its on a different angle from the right one.
Also, one question, how do you find the electric air-conditioner in the grey ghost, now you have lived with it for 2 years?
Thanks man! I'm going to do a little "refresh" of the radiator and add a 2nd condenser to it..sometime in the next couple months. But it's badass and awesome, and I love it!
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✌️from the land of ozz
Hi Michael. Thanks for sharing. Always inspiring to watch. FYI... with all the googling powers I could mustard, I couldn't find radiatorhub.com....
Ha ha!
Nice 👍 did you make those air ducts radiator frames, or were they already on the car before you got it?
They were already there for twin oil coolers.
Will the s bumper fit it?
Yea sir!
Those rads are cool!
(Pun intended!)
Be mindful of the air discharge, may cause front end lift if not dealt with
Have you considered running them in parallel rather than series?
CSF Radiators
@anothy parle @307driftwood - I believe Michael's idea is to run them in series for easier routing back into the motor. I don't know the specifics of the Subaru motor, but if there is only 1 entry for water back into the block you would need to have a massive Y fitting to accept dual -16 fittings coming back into the motor, or it would cause a lot of pressure drop into the system... Also the idea of running this particular set-up in series, is to hopefully get the cooling delta to a lower point before entering the system since the radiators are of smaller size. Of course, this also means water staying in the engine twice as long as well. We will see how it works. Also air-flow velocity into the radiators w/ good pressure zones to create good entry / exit flow will also be key. A lot of variables that can effect the performance of the engine - so he's going to have to try and see how it works. In regards to many bends, yes it looks like the radiators fit well, but now he's going to have to figure out clearances for fittings, and -16 fittings take up more space than most realize - it's going to be a challenge, and hopefully he'll be using higher-end / more advance fittings for this project which have maximum ID for the best possible flow. All AN fittings are not the same or flow the same. I'm the owner of CSF, and I've been consulting Michael with the cooling system and we'll see if it all works. Thank fully if the pivot to parallel is needed, it shouldn't' be too hard to achieve this.. If you remember RSR style oil cooling for the early 911's was in series, not parallel so this is our thoughts for this system.
@@rennch. Mike, i'm a novice but wouldn't it be a good idea to have Hot water in at the leasing edge of the rad (front end) and cooled water exiting on the trailing edges? Physics nightmare!
Sexy radiators? No doubt! 😍
The car is actually a pretty gorgeous thing. Apart from those hideous "sugar scoop" headlight bezels.
Patience...
@@rennch. Leave them on just to spite him =D
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I do 2 addictive.
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YO Mike! Thanks for hanging! Hi five!
Hey!!! Hi five!!! 🖐😃
Noice
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Too small cooling radiators, EZ30 very hot motor!
These things pack a PUNCH Alex!!
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Thanks Matthew! Hi five brother!
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YO Brian! Thanks man!
Have someone weld new fittings in better positions on the radiators, its going to be way too funky routing otherwise.
it should be pretty straightforward. We'll see how it installs first!
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Lonnie! Thanks for hanging man! Hi five!
Wouldn’t it be better to run the coolant hoses like Nissan S13 guys tuck their harness inside their fenders? Then it should be enough room for the wheels to turn and the hose should come from the top of the radiator.
i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn257/KILLERSKITTLE/44af1267.jpg
Yea, it will be running similarly.
I don’t think it’s a good design given the airflow.
Why? It’s literally the same design as all modern Porsches.
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Marcin, thanks for being here brother! High five!
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Thanks brother!
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YO Dennis! Thanks man!
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YOOOOO! Thanks @Wow!
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YO! Thanks Frisco!
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Thanks Paul!
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