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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ธ.ค. 2024
- Hello All. This video shows how to adjust the brake booster pushrod length in a Ford product, to help fix a low brake pedal. I have a 2004 Grand Marquis. Yours will likely be similar. Do not adjust this pushrod unless you know for sure the rest of your brake system is in good shape. A low pedal can be a sign of worn pads or other problems. If you have a Ford with a low brake pedal, which seems to be common, adjusting this pushrod can help it a lot. Just adjust it a little at a time and see how it feels. Don't get it too long, or the brakes will be drag all the time. Try adjusting it out 1/2 or 1/4 turn and take a test drive. Try it a few times. You will know when it feels right. Thanks for watching.
completely thrashed the threads trying to hold it down with a vise grip, but i did my best getting it to level with the 15 dollar tool. missed by maybe 2-3 more turns, but so far wheels dont drag. Had this problem after replacing my booster with a reman. Going test drive it on the highway tomorrow and update, if it passes ill feel like a million dollar man
after a new booster, 3 master cylinders, having it bled 5 times and bleeding it 5 more on my own (including the master on the bench), having the rear inspected (even tho it obviously doesn't leak all the mechanics want to do this 1st, must be big shop hours);
THIS WORKED
you sir should not be working on cars
@@narule2695 why not? Now he knows how to do all this stuff and he fixed his breaks. He won’t go through all that again lol
@@narule2695ha ha ha ha , sorry i know this is a old comment but it cracked me up.
Well how nice! I owned so many cars and I never encountered one with flex lines at the master cylinder. That certainly makes it a breeze to check/adjuster the brake booster pushrod.
That is nice, never seen that before.
Fixed my problem wish i would have known about this years ago. Got it in 2 tries.
Thanks for the instructions.
Did this on my 2002 Mazda B2300, which is a Ford Ranger in drag.
The bolts were movable with WD40 despite 12 Canadian winters.
The solid lines were a hassle, it took me a lot of patience and muscle to remove master cylinder from the two studs. They didn't break but were plastically deformed.
I left about 8 or 9 threads visible on the push rod and got some pretty tight braking without the brakes engaging when the brake pedal is released.
Man it feels good to have some confidence in my pedal thanks so much for the video I'm like all the others been living with it for years
You'll never know how much this video helped. Super Thanks!!!!!!!
Outstanding! Can't believe I lived with it so long with this easy of a fix. Thank you!
You can actually adjust this one time, using a bit of math. Depending on the required factory gap for your car, if you use vernier calipers, you measure the length of the rod at the brake booster, from the mating surface (so how much it extends or is beneath where the master cylinder would mate to the booster. Then you take 2 measurements at the master cylinder: 1. measure where the depth to where the connection is, inside the master cylinder, and then 2. measure from the mating surface of the master cylinder to the top of the tube that inserts into the booster. Subtract the MC numbers (number 1 minus number 2 above), which will give you the measurement of the MC. Now you can compare the number you got for the booster to the number you got for the MC, which will be the gap that you currently have, and adjust the booster pushrod pin to the gap you are supposed to have. Or, of course, buy the tool that does this for you....lol
this is a must if youre vehicle has a reman unit on it. they don't set it at all the shop thought it was the brake booster but no it was a short shaft and a turn and a half gave me brand new brakes
I just did this job for my Australian 2003 Ford XR6 BA. The only difference is that the push rod actually sits inside the hole. So you have to pull it out with your fingers and hold it out. Then use a pair of pliers/vice grips and adjust just like the video. Just makes it a little bit more fiddly. Honestly haven't checked if it's well adjusted just yet, waiting for the traffic around me to go away. Better safe than sorry.
Just have someone press the brake pedal slightly and hold in place enough that the rod extends out of the hole to make your adjustment.
proper way to set right is engine running with master removed and end of rod 0.980 to 0.995 from flat surface master cylinder sets against booster face , can make gauge from a piece of thick paper
Thank You very much for making this video. Your camera work was excellent and your mechanical advice 100% correct. Your video helped me to adjust a friends Ford car that he has had several years of brake problems with (brakes dragging on all the time causing pads wearing out too fast).
I have been an aeroplane mechanic since 1989 but unfortunately they don't use the same brakes that cars do so I never knew about this problem until recently.
Thank you! I've been searching around quite a bit for a solution... I replaced the master cylinder and brakes, bled system. Guess what still going way down. I'll try this before I buy another brake booster! Might have saved me a hundred or so! Guess I owe you a beer or two! ;-)
Did you find the problem?
Thanks for showing your methods. Funny, I sort of used the same "try to mount master flush by holding" to test if the rod was too long myself, just going back and forth on adjustment from too long to just a very tad short of interfering with mounting. There is a better way is to use clay or similar to check the clearance, for most applications a gap of 50/1000's is good - just nearly tight against each other but a hair short. That saves you dismounting and mounting.
Also the rust on your booster doesn't mean you need a booster but maybe a tad of brake fluid leaked from master or was spilled and got on the booster and has removed the paint.
There's an easier way then taking off and putting on the master a couple of dozen times and your still guessing. You take the master off, then put a ball of modeling clay on the tip of the pushrod on the booster, then remount the master making sure bolts are tight, then remove the master and examine the modeling clay. If you need to, cut modeling clay in half to figure out thickness to get measurment. This gap between master piston and booster rod should be 1/32 of an inch to allow thermal expantion and retraction of part. Redo as nessasary to get an acurate measurment.
Great video, mine took about a turn and a half!
maybe you could put some nail polish on the end of the pushrod, and then install it. if the nail polish leaves a dot on the inside of the master cylinder, then you need to back off the pushrod until the dot disappears. but this would require that you clean the nail polish off every time with a rag and a q-tip. it sounds like a pretty good idea to me.
Jeff Fuehr Great idea!
Would that help the sound of a little air leak in the booster or dose it just help with how much fluid and pressure on brake bads cause I have a 1988 ford ranger that has a little air leak and when I hit my brakes its fine for a secon then it starts to get a little hard to.. it dont stop on a dime
He wraps up pretty quickly when the little princess calls! :-)
...thought i was the only one that noticed that.. talked real fast..
Video very well done 👏
I know this is a old video but there is a tool to do this and you can buy it for like 10 bucks,if you are going to do this job next weekend its a nice tool to have and if you order it Friday you'll have it by then,about everyone sells it online.
Not too expensive and it saves you from having to "pull over in a school parking lot" and adjust things,another option is to use a caliper or vernier tool but you gotta be subtracting and adding etc,the tool is a breeze,the tool looks like the letter "H" with a pin thru the center,granted your only gonna use it once or twice but you can show it off to your friends and pretend you're cool,lol
Thank you you saved me a ton of money 👍
Thank u. My pedal is very low
I just changed my master cylinder in my truck. Still having a damn squishy pedal, no leaks in the line. Maybe I'll try this. And oh, put some never seize on those brake booster studs. Helps a ton when removing the MS a bunch of times.
@vegibenz Heres a theory if you car brakes are jamming on like mine are and it is the push rod adjustment, then putting 2 x washers on the shafts of the threaded bolts coming out of the servo would give the same effect without having to adjust anything,is that theory right, would the washers make the distance between the servo and master cylinder farther away thus causing the same desired effect
.980 to .995 in. is the correct adjustment on 80 to 96 Ford Trucks! Haynes and Chiltons shows how to make a template to measure. Metal or Steele template is preferred, but cardboard template works well!
have you tried this ?
I just added 3 stainless washers on each of my studs. Without the washers, the front brakes drag alot! This pretty much cured it.
This car won't be driven to much, so I might be good. I'm worried that the master cylinder is not supported all the way around now, letting it bounce around, maby breaking eventually.
I might take off my master one day and remove the little adapter unit that gets pushed into the master, and then take the exact amount off of it as the thickness of the washers. The re-install it without the washers. That would be better.
But right now I don't feel like bleeding the system again. Test drive Time first!
I bought this kar which is a 09 kia spectra. My brakes get drag/lock up about 10 of driving. They put wrong MC and one of the bold that holds BB was loose. Do you thing the push rod has misadjusted to a point where it is too lengthy?
Question 02 f150 all new rotors pads system bleed and clean,so if you feel a low brake then after 1 pump it feels normal.. could this adjustment help. thanks for sharing nice video
what would cause the master cylinder front bowl to drain in to the rear bowl and all lines are good wheels cylinders good any idea . Would a to long push rod do it
What about input rod adjustment ? That is the rod connected to brake pedal via a clevis. I know the procedure, but just don't know how to access this part. It looks like it needs removing the dashboard section near/under steering column.
Actually I need to check whether there are parts broken down there as a result of pressing the pedal too hard using my heel instead of toe.
Can this adjustment change after a panic Ice road stop?
May be a dumb question but should I be on level ground or have e brake applied before adjusting rod?
Well I guess in park wouldn’t matter
can I get Flex Lines like that for my 94 Honda
If you pull to much out gonna make any problems?
yes, your brakes will drag
@vegibenz Did your brake jam on or stick at all diagonally, for example front right bracke and rear left jamms on intermittently?
My FORD van is doing this UK version,now and again the brakes jam on for no reason then the wheels are smoking hot.
Would this master cylinder push rod adjusted too tightly ie too far out would this casue the brakes to lock on
yes
Thank you
Don't forgett to replace the and box that has everything to do with holding hydraulic break pressure.
Eagleoneradiogod
BRAKES, IT'S SPELLED BRAKES MR HURR DURR.
Thnx for ur video, I got a 05 BA falcon n got a similar issue. Just wanted to know do turn brake booster rod clockwise or counterclockwise to loosen it a bit?
Thnx
would this work on a 2004 jag x type awd??????? i had my pads and rotors replaced then my wheels locked up so we replaced the booster..... now my pedal drops lows to stop the car..... we bled the breaks and there is no air in the lines...... can i adjust the booster?
Thanks
it works in a grand marquis 83?
Is there a warm up period before you can adjust the pushrod? Does brake fluid expand as it heats up? If you adjust the pushrod cold the brakes could drag when warm
If I remember correctly, brake fluid is designed specifically to not expand or contract with temperature variation. It is one of the characteristics that makes brake fluid brake fluid, versus a simple oil like motor oil.
i have a 67 ford f-100 that i am changing from manual brakes to power brakes. when i hook up the push rod that goes thru the firewall onto the brake pedal. the pedal is about 2 inches from the floor. i am going to try this to see if it will fix my problem.
What is it that makes it go out of adjustment exactly? If a master cylinder had failed and replaced for example and problem of 2 front discs stuck on brakes dragging, what causes the push rod to have come out of adjustment when it's a solid rod?
If I have a internal leak , and the booster gets full of break fluid , will that cause white smoke to come out the exhaust pipes ?
With the master cylinder
Johnny Galvan. And really spastic
ratchet-action, lol
you could be sucking brake fluid through the Vacuum hose on the booster and burning that in the engine!
my clutch also runs off the master cylinder if I adjust the push rod will it disengage my clutch further..
It's for a 2010 mustang
i have the same problem with a f150.what did your problem end up being?ours is normal stiffness when truck is off but when you turn it on the pedal drops down and is really hard!
i have the same problem with a f150.ours is normal stiffness when truck is off but when you turn it on the pedal drops down and is really hard! could it be the rod?so turning left brings it out and right shortens it?
that a lot dude it help me a lot man
When I press the brakes in my 02 Ford Escape, there's a lot of play before I can feel the brakes actually being applied. however, when I take my foot off the pedal, it goes back up to normal height. Would this be the push rod being too short? Or something else?
Your abs box is woren out and not holding pressure.
+Eagleoneradiogod Why do you think everyone needs to replace abs?
hey man, do you have any idea on how to fix my hydrovac break system?my breaks goes failure, and the suction is too low. should I need to replace my vacuum pump? BTW sorry for my bad English.....
What would cause the push rod to be needing an adjustment?
I suppose when buying an non-OGM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) brand Master Cylinder and the dimensions are slightly off ( who really wants to pay Dealer Auto Parts prices ?) 1/4 inch off in the rod to Master cylinder gap could literally mean up to 1 in additional brake travel! If you are going to replace a master cylinder it pays to ensure the booster pushrod adjustment is correct. Keep in mind usually there is no lock nut so it is conceivable that it could come out of adjustment.
i noticed that you laid your master cylinder on its side, and then held it upside down. doesn't that allow air into your brake lines? since you allowed air into your brake lines, don't you have to re-bleed the entire brake system, starting at the master cylinder, and then all 4 tires per the proper bleeding sequence in your Haynes manual? i think you screwed up when you laid the master cylinder on its side, and then turned it upside down like that. i woulda made sure the master cylinder stayed up-right while i was re-adjusting that push rod.
the lines were never off. the air was never sucked in. you can bleed brakes with the master cyl cap OFF on most cars believe it or not. the air gets in when the lines are loosened or undone. he didnt undo the lines....
+Jim Herbert thats true bud 👍
Maybe I missed something, but how the pushrod length is measured : from what point to what point ?
I have the same ques. How do you measure it if somebody shorten or stretchen the push rod.
I know this is a late reply. But you should look into a brake booster adjustment tool. I bought mine on ebay. Amazon has a few as well.
what about a 79 f100, my pedal is really high on it
Screw the rod 1 turn and see.
I did this but once I got the bolts off the master cylinder wouldn't come out easy. I had to pull hard and then it made a release of pressure sound. Is that bad? Also the pushrod didn't come out of the hole like yours is. The rod was deeper into the hole.
Means something in your master cylinder was bad if you heard a release when you separated the two oh shit lol 6yrs ago wtf hope you figured it out by now lol
@@SolidBased yeah that must have been okay haven't had a problem lol
Anti-seize on those to studs would be good idea. Clean the crust off the mating surfaces before reinstall. Measure the protrusion of the plunger so you'll know where you started and each adjustment. Write it down.
Will this cause the moter to die at a redlight??
thank you brother
Nice Thanks👍
Do you have a video of exact swap out on a booster for a 87 mercury cougar. Changed out a used booster off a 88 crown vic but seems much larger in size than the org booster off the cougar. Having hard time getting it to fit in the cougar due to small space , and tight fit to drop booster in. Taking alot more time than I attended and making this harder than needs to be to make deadline. Any videos or ideas, and suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thanks, David Netherton
j
thanks very much you help me..
do u know anything about a brake booster on mini vans ?
شكرا لك يا أستاذي الفاضل
Thanks, I have brakes again.
I have a 98 Plymouth voyager
this trick does NOT work on a 67 ford f-100. i know i tried it this morning. it did not help my problem.
You mean something on a car that's 30+ years older than the one in this video didn't work for you? Hmm I think I know why.
lilorbie lilorbie h
Imagine that! Lol. I had a 67 f100. What I did one time was just added a socket to the end of the rod. Think I did that to physically lift the pedal. Also that truck did not have power brakes, so there's that....😂💪
Don't drop your nuts! Ha ha. Good video.
Just buy the tool on line. It’s 12 bucks plus tax
they make a tool to get proper adjustment buy one on amazon
i need more video
جميل
unless its wrong from the factory or some idiot has been messing with it it should be bang on. its not a part that wears so adjustment shouldnt be necessary.
Focus.......tmi
If he would just scrape off the rust and crud from where the master cylinder mounts, that would be the same as turning the 7mm bolt OUT a full turn!! Does this dork go to bed with his boots on?!
+WENDL Ormsby
Shut up idiot, you're posting shit and clearly have no idea what you're on about. The rust depth wouldn't measure one 100th of ONE fraction of the adjustment needed, once the M/C is tightened back down on its seat. The guy's just trying to help people out and rather than saying thanks or just shutting up if it didn't help, you call him a 'dork'? Wow!
Fuck off, ya miserable moron. Must suck being you!!
sounds like a bad master cylinder to me.
Thanks boss..that helped a lot