Courtney, I have a 20'×30' garden. And a 2007 John Deere 2305. I bought a tiller 2 years ago and I can tell you that i wouldn't sell it for 3 times what I paid for it. This was a great video. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
Courtney, Another great video. Good job keeping the people informed. I’ve had a JD 550 tiller on a JD 955 since 1993. As one person also said earlier, I would not trade it for anything. It pretty much stays on my tractor year round. The oddest use I ever had for it was once we had an ice glazing and then snow over that. I needed to push the snow off my driveway and since I use the tiller as ballast in the off season, I put the PTO to mid PTO which allowed the PTO tines to roll when I put the tiller down m. It then rolled over the gravel and broke up the ice glaze and it kept my tractor tracking straight on the glazed part I was driving very slowly over. Nothing was ideal in this scenario I might add. It really was such an odd usage, but when ya have one for almost 30 years you get creative. I’ve also left the PTO in rear PTO mode and the tines then don’t move and I use tiller as almost like a box blade and tillers drag flap on back smooths out piled up dirt and dirt flows through the tines rather well. I would HIGHLY recommend a tiller to anyone. I like it so much I bought a 681 when I bought my JD 4066R this spring. It is an absolute beast of a tiller too.
I see somebody finally figured out that hay rake tines make great rakes. Lol. I built one for my ATV about 10 years ago for raking my trails in the fall before and during deer season. In most places a single pass has the trails so clean that a lizard can't crawl across them without leaving a track. Makes it a lot easier to know where the deer are moving through. They have to have wings to not leave tracks. And it allows the hunter(me) to walk to the stand silently, even at a rapid pace, with no crunchy leaves under foot.
I did essentially this same process for a 20x20 flower bed i removed to return to grass yard. However, no matter what implement i used i just couldnt get it smooth. SO i went on Marketplace and bought an older Mauldin double roller vibratory compactor (the kind you drive)... 1 ton with empty drums, 2 tons with them filled with water. It was $2000 but man, what an addition to the arsenal. The ground was smooth and flat like an iceskating rink. I seeded over it and in 2 weeks i had green peach fuzz. Currently its the ONLY portion of my yard that is smooth and flat. Hahaha. After our NY winter ends, while the ground is wet in the spring, im going to roll the entire yard.
What an amazing video. I am just starting out with rural life and this project is exactly what my wife wants me to do on our acreage. I would have been one of those people trying it with a box blade.
Recently bought 5+ acres of a feral orchard. Overgrown with brush and blackberries. I've been watching your videos & and learning. Thanks. Haven't bought a tractor yet. In the California motherload. Cheers
If you have a small-ish lawn and don't want to rip everything all up, apply a generous amount of soil to the areas you want to smooth out and hit it with a landscape rake. The rake will distribute the soil evenly and level the areas. This technique works great for low spots. A bit more work for high spots since you'll need to distribute over a large area to level things out. Thought I'd share so people don't think they have to destroy their lawns to get them level.
I have a small-ish lawn and I’m trying to level it out since it’s very much uneven due to poor drainage, I’m thinking about leveling it first and then doing a French drain, what’s y’all’s opinion on that?
To level a piece of land out i would first determine how much roots there will be in the ground. If it's not much or much thick ones I would just till it with a rotary tiller and till it up really fine. And than just flatten out with a boxblade. If there are much roots I would firstly pul a shank ripper trough it and trie to pul out as much as possible. Collect the big roots rotor till it and then boxbalde it. The ripping will take a lot of time but it's the only way to save te blades on the rotary tiller from the thick roots.
Two years ago I bought a TYM T 264, same as a T 25 minus the air ride seat. It had a FEL on it and I bought a 60" woods tiller. I take care of about 4 acres and we built in 1991 so over the years after disturbing the land there were places the water found and reshaped things and about 600' of ditch line. Plus I needed to fill in almost 12" around my foundation. I ran the tiller across the top of the ditch with one side over and the other on the flat side and went back and forth what seemed like a hundred times then pushed the dirt into the ditch lessening the slope and smothing everything out. I barely slow down now on my zero turn. I needed a LOT of dirt around the house and I had a place they put the soil that cam out of my lagoon that was about a foot higher than the rest of the lawn. I tilled and tilled that spot and created about 10 yards of dirt which I put all around the foundation. It was just as soft as it could be. I went nuts with the grass seed, may have used 3 times what I needed and covered it with straw. I got it just in time! It rained for a few days and in about 4 or five days I had really thick grass. I honestly believe the tractor paid for itself in that one job vs if I hired someone to do the work. When I was done the tractor was right at the 50 hour service mark. The other thing I never knew I needed was pallet forks! I never pick up anything manually now! My sisters make fun of me and say things like, if you were wall papering a room you would figure out a way to use the tractor! lol
Thanks for the lesson, i will be doing a bunch of this next spring! How wide of a dethatcher/rake will a 1025R comfortably pull? I assume for level appearance the wider the better right?
My Land Pride RTR would have broken something hitting those roots 5:30 thought at the top tilling-hight it is ideal for leveling if the feet are sliding on fairly level paths, I like how it leaves little rows of rooted-grass where I can notch out the peak of a hill every few months, or pull a few slivers of soil out of a ditch.
Neah, tillers are tough! Including your Land Pride. They are designed to work in extremely rough conditions. Worst case, you break the bolts off a tine. Get some new bolts and back in business. That's what they're made for :)
We used to do this method and it does work. Tiller, rake. But then when we had a few acres to level out rented a power rake. It did so well we wound up buying one to have and use. 90' landplane but they do make them smaller. I know they are expensive so if somebody has a small job to do they can look locally for somebody to rent one for a weekend. Usually just a few hundred dollars. Or you can even rent a skid steer and one and do the job pretty fast. Not sure if you sell power rakes so may not help your sales but nothing like a good power rake to fine tune and level land out. Even with sod on it.
I had about 2.5 acre area that was used for hay that had huge ruts when I built my house and made mowing with a rider hurt your back or get you stuck. This was the solution I used as well. Local guy on facebook tilled it for me with an old tractor. I used my friend's atv to drag a large frame I made from lumber that I'd wrapped with old chain link fence. That area is now more smooth than where the builder used their bobcat to grade around the house. I also didnt spray or scrape the topsoil and just tilled it all, and I didnt even need to seed it, the field grass came back on its own.
We built our home on a field that was used for haying and I have several very rough areas I mow that are so rough that I want to do something about it, and hopefully avoid tearing out the sod and bringing in new topsoil. So do you reccomend scalping the lawn first to get it as short as possible, then tilling it several times? The chain link fence frame you dragged around was just to collect small bits of sod/debris or is that what you used to level/smooth the area?
@@p51mustang31i mowed the 1 acre area with my riding mower as low as i could but not it's lowest setting or i would've hit ruts in the dirt and got stuck. There were still areas i couldn't get cut due to large ruts. I then had a guy with a tiller attachment on his tractor go over the whole area for me. I didn't spray and kill the grass like was suggested to me. The tilling left large clumps and spongy ground. It was also dry from not getting any rain for quite a while. I them built a fairly large frame from dimensional lumber nearly 8 feet wide and 4 feet front to back. I initially used that to drag with a 4 wheeler. It didn't knock down and bust up the clumps as well as i wanted it to. I then wrapped chain link around the drag and added more weight with dimensional lumber. This helped more but the biggest help was learning i needed to drive as fast as i could while pulling the drag. After that i just left it and the tilled up grass grew back after a couple months but it's smooth for mowing now.
@@mleachx1 thanks so much for your insight! I'm hoping if I can make several passes over the same area with the tiller and that will help break up the sod clumps fiber and finer on each pass, and possible detach it also. Now I just need the utility tractor I have been trying to convince my wife that we need! Thanks again!
@@p51mustang31If you purchase a tractor and get a tiller attachment then you will have it at your disposal. It isn't like renting, borrowing or paying someone to do it for you. In those cases you are limited by time and money. I've been leveling my entire yard. We live in The Smoky Mountain Foothills of East Tennessee. Nothing here is level. I've been leveling sections as a time that are manageable for me to do by myself. I always start with the sacrifiers dropped as low as they will go on my box blade. They will locate any hidden rocks, large roots or tree stumps that could damage my tiller. Once I am secure knowing nothing will damage my tiller, I start tilling. East to West. North to South. Southeast to Northwest then Southwest to Northeast several times. My last passes with the tiller I start working in soil amendments with the tiller. It is then dragged with a drag harrow. My final step before seeding is to roll it with a large water filled roller.
I am getting a tow behind tiller bc I can’t get a tractor yet but I have grass but it’s like bumps of grass and does pull out easily but is there something like the tiller but finer to chop the clumps up?
In my experience doing an area the size of yours 40x80 I would rent a gas powered sod cutter and cut the whole area. Then roll up the first 3 - 4'. Then take a loader bucket, put it in float and gently scoop up the cut sod. Granted you'll have to get rid of it, but in my opinion it's worth it. Then go back remove stumps, level or whatever you need to do.
tillers are awesome but if you can manage it, run a small plow single furrow or a double and then your tiller. a small disc works great too. The smallest I'd go is 5 feet wide though because you need a bit of weight
Does this technique work on soil with a lot of stonesl gravel in it? I live on a hill with this kind of soil and afraid if this would create a mess cleaninf thay out.
You should try using the DeThatcher with the Heavy Hitch weight Brackets & 6 41 lb weights. It's almost better than an Aireator. Even clearing my trail cleanup was a million times easier. The extra weight allows it to dig in as well as drag more material (when I was raking my trails) without the DeThatcher going over the material.
Just the tiller and a good chain drag would've been sufficient. My favorite drag leveler, is the springs from an old mattress or box springs. I can't believe no one has offered that as a legitimate product... as they're the most effective drag leveler I've ever used. They level, smooth contours, drag away plant material, and kick larger rocks up.
Now after you get your ground all nice and smooth, then you have to figure out how to keep the moles/voles out of your property that’s going to dig up your nice yard and before long your nice yard will look as bad as it did before you started the project! Especially when you have neighbors on all sides of your property that do nothing to control the moles /voles in their yard. Only a matter of time till those pest find their way to your property!
Step 1 rent a D9 dozer. Step 2 spend a week ripping out all the rocks and stumps and getting it flat with said dozer Step 3 get some fill, hopefully your near a navigable body of water because trucking in hundreds or thousands of yards of fill is going to cost $$$$$ Step 4 rent a loader and start speading the fill Step 5 who knows because your most likely broke by this point 🤣 Anyway that’s what it will take to level my yard, I figure it’s going to take 1,500 yards of fill and several weeks with a D9 to get mine flat enough to mow yet high enough to drain.
The easiest way to do this is to use a surface seed planter, zip seeder, or even a small corn planter. You can level a spot by just adding compost instead of fertilizer. Just is easier and will cost less money and time playing with machinery. It takes years for the soil to recover from tillage soil aggregation which is how healthy living soil absorbs water is pretty much destroyed when this is done plus you are creating all kinds of weed issues with tillage.
All well and good, but you forgot about the entire point of this process which is leveling out a bumpy field. Your idea works for overseeding only on an undisturbed plot.
Great tool for commercial use, but not for 99% of home owners. Way too expensive and a tiller is much more versatile. You can take your family on a nice Hawaiian vacation for the price of a harley rake.
@GoodWorksTractors Many places you can rent one for the weekend for a few hundred dollars. But yes too much money - ours was $18,000 for a homeowner to use one. Still nothing like a power rake. Renting is a good option @GoodWorksTractors
ur verbiage about what to do doesn't match what you're doing... ?? I use a lot of equipment u mentioned and wanted to get a quick clearly presented review
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Courtney, I have a 20'×30' garden. And a 2007 John Deere 2305. I bought a tiller 2 years ago and I can tell you that i wouldn't sell it for 3 times what I paid for it. This was a great video. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
Sweet, glad to hear it John!
I enjoy your commentary! You have the voice and the presentation! Love the tiller and how the ground looks like!
Courtney, Another great video. Good job keeping the people informed. I’ve had a JD 550 tiller on a JD 955 since 1993. As one person also said earlier, I would not trade it for anything. It pretty much stays on my tractor year round. The oddest use I ever had for it was once we had an ice glazing and then snow over that. I needed to push the snow off my driveway and since I use the tiller as ballast in the off season, I put the PTO to mid PTO which allowed the PTO tines to roll when I put the tiller down m. It then rolled over the gravel and broke up the ice glaze and it kept my tractor tracking straight on the glazed part I was driving very slowly over. Nothing was ideal in this scenario I might add. It really was such an odd usage, but when ya have one for almost 30 years you get creative.
I’ve also left the PTO in rear PTO mode and the tines then don’t move and I use tiller as almost like a box blade and tillers drag flap on back smooths out piled up dirt and dirt flows through the tines rather well. I would HIGHLY recommend a tiller to anyone. I like it so much I bought a 681 when I bought my JD 4066R this spring. It is an absolute beast of a tiller too.
Morning sir. You are right in that method. I have been doing that for 30 years. So keep up the good work. Have a great day.
Appreciate it, have a good one!
Man you speak very very well, I can understand everything, usually it's difficult find a so such understandable video for a beginner thank you
I have that CMP rake. One of the most versatile attachments I own
Glad to hear it!
Thank you or this video. You addressed a lot of questions I have about areas of my property and given me some good ideas about dealing with them.
I see somebody finally figured out that hay rake tines make great rakes. Lol. I built one for my ATV about 10 years ago for raking my trails in the fall before and during deer season. In most places a single pass has the trails so clean that a lizard can't crawl across them without leaving a track. Makes it a lot easier to know where the deer are moving through. They have to have wings to not leave tracks. And it allows the hunter(me) to walk to the stand silently, even at a rapid pace, with no crunchy leaves under foot.
Courtney I am sure this worked, I would like to share how I did a larger area. Use a turning plow then a set of discs and then the tiller.
Rewatched! Excellent video, great step by step comtemt! Love the attachments, great end result at rhe end of the video! Looks amazing!
I did essentially this same process for a 20x20 flower bed i removed to return to grass yard. However, no matter what implement i used i just couldnt get it smooth. SO i went on Marketplace and bought an older Mauldin double roller vibratory compactor (the kind you drive)... 1 ton with empty drums, 2 tons with them filled with water. It was $2000 but man, what an addition to the arsenal. The ground was smooth and flat like an iceskating rink. I seeded over it and in 2 weeks i had green peach fuzz. Currently its the ONLY portion of my yard that is smooth and flat. Hahaha. After our NY winter ends, while the ground is wet in the spring, im going to roll the entire yard.
What an amazing video. I am just starting out with rural life and this project is exactly what my wife wants me to do on our acreage. I would have been one of those people trying it with a box blade.
Recently bought 5+ acres of a feral orchard. Overgrown with brush and blackberries. I've been watching your videos & and learning. Thanks. Haven't bought a tractor yet. In the California motherload. Cheers
Darn! I wish I would have watched this BEFORE I got the box blade. Everything you said about box blades troubles is exactly what I have experienced
Box blades definitely have their place too.
Great channel, really enjoying your advice.
If you have a small-ish lawn and don't want to rip everything all up, apply a generous amount of soil to the areas you want to smooth out and hit it with a landscape rake. The rake will distribute the soil evenly and level the areas. This technique works great for low spots. A bit more work for high spots since you'll need to distribute over a large area to level things out. Thought I'd share so people don't think they have to destroy their lawns to get them level.
I'm not sure you've actually tried this. When you go over a bump, the rake follows. You never get it level.
I have a small-ish lawn and I’m trying to level it out since it’s very much uneven due to poor drainage, I’m thinking about leveling it first and then doing a French drain, what’s y’all’s opinion on that?
Thanks for a great video. Now I need yet another implement 😀
To level a piece of land out i would first determine how much roots there will be in the ground. If it's not much or much thick ones I would just till it with a rotary tiller and till it up really fine. And than just flatten out with a boxblade. If there are much roots I would firstly pul a shank ripper trough it and trie to pul out as much as possible. Collect the big roots rotor till it and then boxbalde it. The ripping will take a lot of time but it's the only way to save te blades on the rotary tiller from the thick roots.
Two years ago I bought a TYM T 264, same as a T 25 minus the air ride seat. It had a FEL on it and I bought a 60" woods tiller. I take care of about 4 acres and we built in 1991 so over the years after disturbing the land there were places the water found and reshaped things and about 600' of ditch line. Plus I needed to fill in almost 12" around my foundation. I ran the tiller across the top of the ditch with one side over and the other on the flat side and went back and forth what seemed like a hundred times then pushed the dirt into the ditch lessening the slope and smothing everything out. I barely slow down now on my zero turn. I needed a LOT of dirt around the house and I had a place they put the soil that cam out of my lagoon that was about a foot higher than the rest of the lawn. I tilled and tilled that spot and created about 10 yards of dirt which I put all around the foundation. It was just as soft as it could be. I went nuts with the grass seed, may have used 3 times what I needed and covered it with straw. I got it just in time! It rained for a few days and in about 4 or five days I had really thick grass. I honestly believe the tractor paid for itself in that one job vs if I hired someone to do the work. When I was done the tractor was right at the 50 hour service mark. The other thing I never knew I needed was pallet forks! I never pick up anything manually now! My sisters make fun of me and say things like, if you were wall papering a room you would figure out a way to use the tractor! lol
Thanks for the lesson, i will be doing a bunch of this next spring! How wide of a dethatcher/rake will a 1025R comfortably pull? I assume for level appearance the wider the better right?
You're welcome. The dethatcher only comes in 60" and the 1025r handles it just fine. It only weighs 50 lbs.
@@GoodWorksTractors thanks!
My Land Pride RTR would have broken something hitting those roots 5:30 thought at the top tilling-hight it is ideal for leveling if the feet are sliding on fairly level paths, I like how it leaves little rows of rooted-grass where I can notch out the peak of a hill every few months, or pull a few slivers of soil out of a ditch.
Neah, tillers are tough! Including your Land Pride. They are designed to work in extremely rough conditions. Worst case, you break the bolts off a tine. Get some new bolts and back in business. That's what they're made for :)
This was great commentary and excellent commentary! You have a great voice for recording , easy to listen to! Liked , Viewed, Subscribed,n
We used to do this method and it does work. Tiller, rake. But then when we had a few acres to level out rented a power rake. It did so well we wound up buying one to have and use. 90' landplane but they do make them smaller. I know they are expensive so if somebody has a small job to do they can look locally for somebody to rent one for a weekend. Usually just a few hundred dollars. Or you can even rent a skid steer and one and do the job pretty fast. Not sure if you sell power rakes so may not help your sales but nothing like a good power rake to fine tune and level land out. Even with sod on it.
I had about 2.5 acre area that was used for hay that had huge ruts when I built my house and made mowing with a rider hurt your back or get you stuck. This was the solution I used as well. Local guy on facebook tilled it for me with an old tractor. I used my friend's atv to drag a large frame I made from lumber that I'd wrapped with old chain link fence. That area is now more smooth than where the builder used their bobcat to grade around the house. I also didnt spray or scrape the topsoil and just tilled it all, and I didnt even need to seed it, the field grass came back on its own.
We built our home on a field that was used for haying and I have several very rough areas I mow that are so rough that I want to do something about it, and hopefully avoid tearing out the sod and bringing in new topsoil. So do you reccomend scalping the lawn first to get it as short as possible, then tilling it several times? The chain link fence frame you dragged around was just to collect small bits of sod/debris or is that what you used to level/smooth the area?
@@p51mustang31i mowed the 1 acre area with my riding mower as low as i could but not it's lowest setting or i would've hit ruts in the dirt and got stuck. There were still areas i couldn't get cut due to large ruts. I then had a guy with a tiller attachment on his tractor go over the whole area for me. I didn't spray and kill the grass like was suggested to me. The tilling left large clumps and spongy ground. It was also dry from not getting any rain for quite a while. I them built a fairly large frame from dimensional lumber nearly 8 feet wide and 4 feet front to back. I initially used that to drag with a 4 wheeler. It didn't knock down and bust up the clumps as well as i wanted it to. I then wrapped chain link around the drag and added more weight with dimensional lumber. This helped more but the biggest help was learning i needed to drive as fast as i could while pulling the drag. After that i just left it and the tilled up grass grew back after a couple months but it's smooth for mowing now.
@@mleachx1 thanks so much for your insight! I'm hoping if I can make several passes over the same area with the tiller and that will help break up the sod clumps fiber and finer on each pass, and possible detach it also. Now I just need the utility tractor I have been trying to convince my wife that we need! Thanks again!
@@p51mustang31If you purchase a tractor and get a tiller attachment then you will have it at your disposal. It isn't like renting, borrowing or paying someone to do it for you. In those cases you are limited by time and money. I've been leveling my entire yard. We live in The Smoky Mountain Foothills of East Tennessee. Nothing here is level. I've been leveling sections as a time that are manageable for me to do by myself. I always start with the sacrifiers dropped as low as they will go on my box blade. They will locate any hidden rocks, large roots or tree stumps that could damage my tiller. Once I am secure knowing nothing will damage my tiller, I start tilling. East to West. North to South. Southeast to Northwest then Southwest to Northeast several times. My last passes with the tiller I start working in soil amendments with the tiller. It is then dragged with a drag harrow. My final step before seeding is to roll it with a large water filled roller.
Summit's back!!!!! WOOOT!
This makes me want to buy the Summit tx25h more.
Excellent video, great commentary!
Great video, how deep do you have your tiller set?
When you’re back blading with the bucket, or just going over with the bucket to level are you floating it?
I am getting a tow behind tiller bc I can’t get a tractor yet but I have grass but it’s like bumps of grass and does pull out easily but is there something like the tiller but finer to chop the clumps up?
In my experience doing an area the size of yours 40x80 I would rent a gas powered sod cutter and cut the whole area. Then roll up the first 3 - 4'. Then take a loader bucket, put it in float and gently scoop up the cut sod. Granted you'll have to get rid of it, but in my opinion it's worth it. Then go back remove stumps, level or whatever you need to do.
tillers are awesome but if you can manage it, run a small plow single furrow or a double and then your tiller. a small disc works great too. The smallest I'd go is 5 feet wide though because you need a bit of weight
Exactly what I needed right now. How did you know? :)
Hi guys , so my question is whether the summit box plane was any good? Thanks for the vids. Always a great way to destress.😎
Yeah, really cool design and practical as well. Only downside is it's getting close to the price of buying a stand alone box blade and land plane.
Does this technique work on soil with a lot of stonesl gravel in it? I live on a hill with this kind of soil and afraid if this would create a mess cleaninf thay out.
After you tilled this plot of land, why didn't you use a pulverizer vs the dethatcher rake?
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
You should try using the DeThatcher with the Heavy Hitch weight Brackets & 6 41 lb weights. It's almost better than an Aireator. Even clearing my trail cleanup was a million times easier. The extra weight allows it to dig in as well as drag more material (when I was raking my trails) without the DeThatcher going over the material.
How about using disc harrows to level the ground?
How long does it take you to till an acre?
Courtney we live in the NE and we grow rocks. Great video but rocks will be rocks. Box plane?
Some places aren't meant to have smooth lawns and fields :) I don't sell the box plane, that is available through Summit
$30k for equipment and you have a nice yard
Just the tiller and a good chain drag would've been sufficient. My favorite drag leveler, is the springs from an old mattress or box springs. I can't believe no one has offered that as a legitimate product... as they're the most effective drag leveler I've ever used. They level, smooth contours, drag away plant material, and kick larger rocks up.
“Enough to make this video” 😊
Stone burier is the best tool for this job bar none, imho!
Not a good use of money for the average compact tractor owner. Tiller works well and much more versatile.
I would love to just till my sod up. The problem is the plastic netting inside. I hate that stuff!
Plastic netting in your turf? Normally that stuff decomoses unless you've got something else going on?
@@GoodWorksTractors not according to my research. Seems to be a problem with a lot of people.
Now after you get your ground all nice and smooth, then you have to figure out how to keep the moles/voles out of your property that’s going to dig up your nice yard and before long your nice yard will look as bad as it did before you started the project!
Especially when you have neighbors on all sides of your property that do nothing to control the moles /voles in their yard. Only a matter of time till those pest find their way to your property!
Good job Court....I'm still out here ! Lol
pc
Thanks man, nice to hear from you :)
*Side eyes box blade with disdain*
I wish I would have seen this a few months ago 😅
Haha, I saw that box blade in action :)
Box blade is just like you said. If you don't have a tilt and turn rear, it's a big mess. I keep looking for a tiller. Ill find one dam it. Lol
Wouldn’t a plow followed by a tiller do it?
Pretty sure a mini-grader would come in handy somewhere during the process.
Maybe, but I don't think it's necessary.
I agree, but I just think a mini-grader would be so cool. Besides, nobody makes one anyway, 🙂 @@GoodWorksTractors
Haha, totally get that!!
God bless you
Harley Rake is the only correct answer to this problem.
Great vid Courtney ty 👏👍💪🏆🏆👴🐕🤔🦌🤠😎🙏💙☕️
Excellent video
Enjoyed it
Ever hear of a harley rake? An old timer says they work well to level the lawn..
Way too expensive for 99% of home owners. Good tool though.
@@GoodWorksTractorsI rented one for my tractor. Worked great
👍👍
👍
Thanks Jules
Killed our area with a massive silage tarp. No spray. 3 weeks with daytime temps over 100 deg. killed all vegetation.
Step 1 rent a D9 dozer.
Step 2 spend a week ripping out all the rocks and stumps and getting it flat with said dozer
Step 3 get some fill, hopefully your near a navigable body of water because trucking in hundreds or thousands of yards of fill is going to cost $$$$$
Step 4 rent a loader and start speading the fill
Step 5 who knows because your most likely broke by this point 🤣
Anyway that’s what it will take to level my yard, I figure it’s going to take 1,500 yards of fill and several weeks with a D9 to get mine flat enough to mow yet high enough to drain.
Don't think I seen one rock. You all see that.
The easiest way to do this is to use a surface seed planter, zip seeder, or even a small corn planter. You can level a spot by just adding compost instead of fertilizer. Just is easier and will cost less money and time playing with machinery. It takes years for the soil to recover from tillage soil aggregation which is how healthy living soil absorbs water is pretty much destroyed when this is done plus you are creating all kinds of weed issues with tillage.
All well and good, but you forgot about the entire point of this process which is leveling out a bumpy field. Your idea works for overseeding only on an undisturbed plot.
I think Mr Courtney is spot on with this video. It’s also a great time to add the fertilizer (and lime) as needed to get those seeds started
Didn’t even watch the video yet. But harely rake hands down. No time to watch
Great tool for commercial use, but not for 99% of home owners. Way too expensive and a tiller is much more versatile. You can take your family on a nice Hawaiian vacation for the price of a harley rake.
@GoodWorksTractors Many places you can rent one for the weekend for a few hundred dollars. But yes too much money - ours was $18,000 for a homeowner to use one. Still nothing like a power rake. Renting is a good option @GoodWorksTractors
ur verbiage about what to do doesn't match what you're doing... ?? I use a lot of equipment u mentioned and wanted to get a quick clearly presented review