DO NOT over tighten the sensor. The threads are a tapered pipe thread and over tightening will lead to damage of the housing the sensor is threaded into.
@@samroberts7165I'm currently doing that. The housing is called the "Oil Cover". You have to drain the coolant, remove the coolant assembly, on the driver's side of the engine, remove the the center coolant pipe and then you'll have access to it. You'll need to replace the oil cover gasket, the two o rings on the center pipe, and the gaskets on the coolant assembly. I recommend adding a little RTV to the oil cover gasket, the seal it better. I torqued everything to spec and still had it leaking a tiny bit of oil. Have been doing this job since Monday afternoon. It is currently Thursday morning. I just want it done.
Thank you very much, Kia Sorento v6, 3.5. dealership found a oil leak, quoted me a rear main seal, valve cover, oil pan gasket and timing belt cover. $1700 but couldn’t tell me specifically which gasket was the fail point. A little Google and TH-cam tells me it’s a few gaskets and once sensor. Save me a Ton of money and anxiety.
Couldn't believe my luck when I found this video. My 2010 Santa Fe 3.5 with 326,000km threw the oil light on my way home from work. Pulled over and checked under the front end. Oil was running out the bottom of engine where it joins the tranny. Was sure it was the crank seal. That was until i saw this video and confirmed it was the oil sensor. Yippee !!! Still a tough repair but far easier than fixing a rear crank seal. Thanks a bunch! This was an easy-ish DIY fix with $150 in parts verses a full engine pull and likely well over $1000 in labour if it was a crank seal failure. Book hours for the sensor is 3 hrs crank seal 11 hrs 3 things I found helpful from my experience. Box end wrench on the sensor also did not work for me. The wrench body was too wide to get any swing. I used a socket which I slide in under the fuel rail. You could also grind out a section of the box end wrench where it interferes with the head to allow for more swing. Secondly the 6mm allen bolts to detach the lower plenum are quite deep. You'll need at least a 3" long key head to get down between the fuel rail and the ports to get to the bolts ( you can also loosen the fuel rails to get an extra millimeter or two of clearance if you have a shorter wrench and need to get the wrench head down farther). I also had to cut the sensor wire from the remoter starter to allow the upper plenum to e moved out of the way.
Great video, I've had to do this twice on our 2012 santa fe, the first time it happened I thought for sure we had a major engine failure. The first time I replaced the oil pressure sensor I used an OEM part from the dealer and it failed about 12 months after it was replaced and leaked oil again. The second time I purchased one from the local autoparts store and it's been holding for 2+ years. I've had luck sneaking a deep socket in under the coolant crossover tube with a long wobble extension to get the old sensor out. Saves a lot of time messing with box wrenches. Also, I would recommend anyone looking to diagnose this to invest in one of those small USB inspection cameras or boroscopes from amazon. Mine cost me $25 and has saved my butt more than once looking at hard to reach places like under the plenum (it's how I discovered my original sensor was leaking).
Great tutorial ,let me tell you my leak was POURING out at trans/motor seam underneath, I caught the low oil in time ,got it home after topping up the oil and leaving a trail across the county , I had to see this one with my own eyes in full failure, purchased a borescopes cam with reticulation and fired it up and good lord the Beverly hill Billie's had nothing on me and my bubbling crude ,except I made the Walton's millionaires. Ordering up the parts to sort it out and getting those rear sparkplugs done while its opened up . Again Thank You!!
Amazing video, this helped me diagnose the problem and I'm confident now that I can do the repair my self. Also thank you for showing the sensor up close to the camera, some of these smaller parts are so hard to match for sure without things like that.
All I can say is wow! You have got to be one of the most thorough mechanics I’ve seen on TH-cam. I just liked the video and subscribed. Keep up the most excellent work! And thank you so much for making this video! I have a 2011 Kia Sorrento SX that needs a pressure switch and I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but I’m not certified. This is a huge help and saves hundreds.
We just purchased a 2015 Kia with an oil leak. Taking it back to the dealership tomorrow, but I assume they are not going to fix the issue. After watching this video I am certain that the oil leak is caused by the oil sensor just like the video. Thank you so much for such a detailed video. If I have to perform the repair this video is going to come in very handy. Thank you so much "In the shop".
I used this today on my 2012 Sedona. Took me 11 hours and three trips to the hardware store, but I got it done. You did an excellent job explaining it, you have a great presence, and know your stuff. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Wait, a Sedona? Presume that's w/ the 3.8 engine. Same issue on that engine? -- that this guidance also applies to my 2009 Sedona? Common explanation for oil drizzling (slowly) down across belt side of my engine (and ruining the alternator - after several months) is leaking valve cover gaskets. I changed the front one, but leaking continued. (and ruined a second alternator) Was about to change the rear VCGasket... (may do that yet) But this is the first video I've come across confidently telling me the problem is with the oil pressure sensor (!).... (and min 2:30 shows how....) Yet what an long, long job (anything but an "easy fix) to get down to it!... Any further tips/thoughts from your Sedona experience?
I see the 2012 Sedona had the 3.5l engine. (unlike the 2009 with the 3.8l)... Still wondering if I've got the same issue? Not convinced. Yes, have the wetness behind the belts, but not having same "typical symptom" mentioned of oil "pouring out between engine and the transmission." But what else could be causing the wetness behind the belts....?
@@dinscool85 The pressure sending unit cracked (the plastic portion) and oil was pouring out. I got about 15 miles to the gallon of oil. It was pretty expensive driving from Charlotte NC to Central Illinois.
So I'm here because I'm shopping for a used SUV. Looked at 3 vehicles today with this engine, 2 Santa Fe's and 1 Sorento. ALL THREE of them had this leak! The oil was dripping off of the end of the transmission bellhousing, and to my uninformed eyes, it sure looked like a rear main seal to me. Now I know better. Great video...thanks!
One of the most thorough repair videos I have ever seen. Thank You for taking the time to make it. Even for the non-mechanic, it illustrates the complexity of engines and why repairs cost what they do.
Excellent job. I wasted some money to those people to replace the gasket... still didn't get the problem fixed. Finally, I followed your video step by step to fix it myself. Thanks very much!!!
All the symptoms you've mentioned in this video are right there in my 2008 hyundai sonata v6. You saved me from replacing the rear main seal coz I thought it was shot. Thanks a million to you sir.
Thank you for a great video !!! I had to have this repair done 2x’s on my 2013 Sorento. Each time it was almost $800 😬😬😬 and it looks like it’s failing again with 203k on the motor. This sensor is a crappy design and made to fail. With the help from this video I believe I can attempt this myself, thanks again you may have just saved me $800 !!!
Spent the last few days between a few shops trying to figure out where my major oil leak in this exact area was coming from so thanks for putting this video up tremendous help!
My 2012 Sedona's failed 700 miles from home. I limped it back at 55 most of the way, adding 2 quarts of oil every 20 miles. That was a LONG, EXPENSIVE drive home. Thanks for posting this - the fix looks time-consuming but very do-able.
Nice video! The fact that you have to disassemble the entire engine to get to a part that will most certainly fail on 90% of vehicles seems almost criminal by Kia!
Thank you! This video has not only educated me for the future but finally got me to stop chasing my tail around in circles trying to find this crazy oil leak that appears to be a rear main seal. Thanks again for saving me!
Thank you so much. I just finished repairing my 2012 Sorento oil sensor leak. Being able to walk through this in advance and know what sizes of socket I needed was worth a lot to me.
Thank you for your in depth coverage here. I own a 2017 Santa Fe that has an oil leak. Not much is leaking but, it's enough to look into getting it repaired. I took it to my local mechanic who generally has done good work for me on multiple vehicles over the years. They definitely misdiagnosed my leak as the main rear seal. $900 later, I still have a leak! Taking it back tomorrow armed with information from your video.
Great video. Was going to take our Santa Fe to a mechanic, but after watching your video, I am confident that I can change the sensor myself. Saved me a bunch of money. Thank-you, and keep up the good work.
My 2015 Santa Fe exhibiting same problem. 😮 Taking it to Hyundai dealer tomorrow for repair and prepared to pay big $$$$. 😢 Wish you were close to help me!! You did an awesome job! Kudos!
Don't forget to change the spark plugs when you have everything off, because it's almost the same procedure. They designed this engine to never get fixed so highly technical (they could have placed the oil sensor anywhere but.. ) same deal with the alternator have to take half the engine apart.
Thank you for this awesome video. I have a 2011 Kia Sorento with 79K but the 2.4L (4 cylinder) . It just started to leak some oil. Kia dealership said the timing belt cover/casket needs to be replaced for $1900, but at the same time, they seem like they didn't want the work. I thanked them and left. So, I will look at the top of the engine as you described. Again, thank you. Take care.
Great video and advise...also during this repair it would be a good time to replace your spark plugs and also replace your valve cover gaskets if you see oil seepage around where the valve covers seal to the cylinder heads...its a good time to do these when the plenums are off during this repair.
Just an FYI for anyone with this issue. First, there is a bulletin on it from KIA. This may be covered by warranty even if outside it otherwise. Second, my sons Sedona just had this problem, and the oil did NOT leak to the back area of the valley and onto the rear main area. On his engine, the oil from the switch got pushed into the wiring insulation (in with the copper wire), the path went out to the right front (left looking at it from the front of car) to a group of solenoids mounted on the engine above the valve cover. Some of the oil also dripped onto the serpentine belt and got thrown around a bit. The dealer fixed it under warranty and also replaced some wiring since we complained. Don’t know if they got it all though, but it’s documented for later. The oil light would also sporadically illuminate.
I’m really happy this popped up in my google search! The leak definitely looked like a rear main to me, and it started at a few drops and went to a whole lot in less than a week. Thanks for the video!
I should amend my comment. My leak had all the symptoms of this one, and was even leaking from exactly the same location, but mine turned out to be a head gasket. I stopped counting after 4 stripped head boot threads in the block. Threaded inserts are holding strong so far!
This video was very helpful. Replaced my oil sensor and PVC valve in a few hours of time. Sadly, the oil sensor isn't the source of my oil leaking, so back to the drawing board.
Thank you very much, I just got quoted for the same issue by a shop 1200 $ to replace transmission / engine seal and watching your video make so much sense , thanks a lot again. I will buy the sensor and replace it myself.
58k on our 2019 Sedona and noticed a stream of oil under the vehicle at startup - after topping off with a full quart of oil. Thank you for this video my friend!
Very good video. I had no luck using a wrench to loosen the sensor. I found that using a non-impact 3/8" drive 15/16" deep well socket was much easier. It is a bit shorter than its 1/2" drive counterpart, and that little difference in length gave me just enough room to get the socket on the sensor in that cramped little space. I also recommend that if you use shop towels to cover the intake so that nothing falls in that you make sure to remove them before reassembly. Don't ask me how I know.
Thanks for posting this... i had to perform this change-out yesterday. It took a while - I took my time - but your step-by-step was a huge help! I couldnt get a 24mm box wrench to work the way you did but I was able to fish a 24mm ratchet into the valley and get it out that way. Got it done... hope I never have to do it again!
Just wanted to thank you so much for your detailed video on replacing this sensor. You can tell with your presentation you know your stuff. Much appreciated and I have subscribed to your channel.
@@InTheShop I had taken it by two shops and they both had me quoted on replacing the main seal , one of them at the cost of $2800. Thankfully, I boyfriend decided to investigate and came across your video and you proved him right!
Thank you for posting, even though I was working with the 3.8 L lambda (2011 Veracruz Limited) oil cooler removal and knock sensors replacement. It helped me avoid a potentially huge 🔥 issue with the gas rails. Went and rewatched multiple times!
I'm sure glad I watched the whole video. Quite a few things I wouldn't have expected, like coolant from the throttle body leaking and how tedious removing the oil pressure sensor will be. Good job thanks for the video!
@@InTheShop Great video I have the same car with variable valve timing solenoid exhaust Left i believe leaking oil but i can not find it. can you help please
Thanks for the great video! I am tackling this job tomorrow on my wife's Santa Fe. It would be nice if you did have the fastener torque specs. I bought aftermarket parts from RockAuto and Amazon that I am hoping will work out well. Cost was about $50 compared to $200+ that Hyundai wanted. Total shop cost with labor for doing this job at a central MN Hyundai dealer was quoted ~$650.
Came out great! Bought a set of extended metric allen wrench sockets at Home Depot for about $22 to better clear the fuel rails. Used my torque wrench to do a "reverse calculation" of the torque specs that I felt comfortable with (I prefer to remove any chances of somehow breaking off a bolt!). Had to used two different brands of open end wrenches that I had to loosen the sensor -- flipping one wrench back and forth didn't work. Probably made about 100 mini-stroke turns with alternating wrenches to get it out -- this is a tight spot with very little clearance. T!hanks again for a great video!
Excellent diagnostics and explanation. This *may* be a potential issue on the 3.3T engines as well. More owners (G70/Stinger) are seeing a slight oil seep between the engine and trans.
Great video, very detailed A friend of my brother in-law had this very issue and he asked me if I could do it for him. The job went well. His check engine light was on with two codes. One is for the evap system and the other is intake manifold runner performance code is p200a, what can you tell me about this
Not sure what kind of idiot would gives this video a thumbs down, but thanks for making it. Seriously. Just did the job today in the driveway, can't imagine how much time or even money you saved my ass. If you're ever in West Michigan, beers on me friend.
I want tom thank you so much for all then insight on replacing the oil pressure switch. I also thought it was a main seal until I found your video..Your insight was spot on and your video was clear and easy to follow along..Thanks again
Very detailed video, any chance you can do one on replacing the oil filter housing. That one is also very common leak that is simular to the oil pressure sensor leak on the 2011 Kia Sorento 3.5. Thank you
Great diagnosis. got a 2016 sorento v6 - 66K miles, oil is leaking. oil sensor is now extended warranty 150,000 miles, 10 years, problem is dealership says its lower oil pan gasket and oil filter housing both leaking (and not the oil sensor), they would not do the lower oil pan gasket by itself, said both have to be done at same time due to one causing the other to get worse if only one done....but they are not 100% on the oil filter housing. said oil change needed first, which I had already done. question, could the oil filter housing have a flattened gasket (where it mounts to the engine block) as opposed to the entire plastic housing itself needing to be replaced? if I can figure out how to get the oil filter housing off (it's top mount oil filter on this 3.3 V6 Kia) I can see about if the gasket is bad. But man it looks like it's real hard to get that oil filter housing unbolted. (subscribed!!!)
@@ericjones363 well, I took the oil filter itself off, inspected, took the o-ring off, put it back on and put as much oil on it as possible, then reseated it. It's winter-time now so I put some paper towels under vehicle and I keep checking for leaks. Leaks seems to have slowed way down, but I still see some fresh oil on paper towels and need to further investigate. Maybe it slowed due to winter-time? I will certainly re-visit this when warm weather is back (in a couple months) and see what she looks like. Thanks for asking and I'll update this When I know more. It's a real bummer. Again, I appreciate you asking.
This works also for the 2011-14 Sedona vans also. If you are doing spark plugs you basically do this until you get the upper plenum off but not the lower one.
@@ericjones363 Those years (3rd gen) use the Lambda Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) 3.3-liter V6 which is a different engine that in this video, but the oil pressure sensor is in a similar location. th-cam.com/video/-C3MqHg76Sg/w-d-xo.html
Very nice video! Great work. I have a very significant oil leak from my 2015 Genesis V8 5.0. The leak appears down at the weep hole near the bottom of the bell housing. It leaks quick enough with the car idling in park that I am not driving it. I am wondering if you know that the problem you fixed in your video could be the same on my 5.0. I downloaded the hyundai tech manual for my car (19.00$) and it seems to indicate there is an oil pressure sensor in the valley as you had on the car in the video...but I think the manual is translated from Korean, so its a little unclear. Same set up you think? Thank you.
Very good procedure for repair. Kia USA issued letter on this: Extended coverage 15 yrs - 150,000 miles. Dated 07 April 2022. V6's 1st step might be to disconnect Battery. Lots of loose connectors hanging about. Again great job!
Great video presentation, had this repair done at local shop and since then santa fe loses coolant? No visible leakage and none in oil, any ideas? Throttle body? Thanks for any suggestions.
Wow he sounds honest.. most mechanics lie.. I paid for spark plugs and valve cover gasket and My Mechanic cracked the valve cover and didn’t tell me, and oil was splashing all over. I paid $25 for a glue. Temporarily because I am afraid that replacing the valve cover will solve the problem. I’m hesitating..
Incredible video! I believe this is my issue on my 2012. It seems to be leaking from somewhere above the starter... which, to me, corresponds to the weep hole at the end of the valley you described (on the right hand side of the engine). At least that's where I think it's coming from. Does that sound about right? Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the process.
Excellent video quality. I am working through changing the oil filter housing on a 12 sorento. I wasnt able to find any video that went past the oil sensor. Would have really enjoyed a video like this that went through that
Encountered this issue on my 2012 Santa Fe at just over 30K! Luckily my warranty covered the repair. The oil filter housing had to be replaced as well. Good grief.
I've replaced the sensor once before and I believe it's leaking again. What causes that to fail? And did you Teflon tape the threads or put anything over the threads on the sensor before reinstalling?
I have a kia soul 2016 tht started leaking... come to find out its a small hole a little bit above the oil pan.... what do u recommend? I'm using sealant today but I need it fixed permanently
I have a oil leak did not lose pressure but lost a lot of oil. So I got it in the air and inspected and discovered there is a safety inspection plate or just a plate right next to the flex pipe and location is on motor block bottom easy access just not sure if that is my issue thank you
What to say great video too have the same problem video made the job easy and save a guy money. Great work. I’ve been doing auto glass for 18 years now need to make videos to help people thanks again
Mine is pooling middle of the transmission but the leak appears to be coming from the piece that is attached to the side of the oil filter. I only see spots on the ground. I am going to wash down the current oil and hope my leak is from that gasket since I don't have a garage and it is a bit wintery here. I've replaced head gaskets in the cold. Rolled a transmission out with snow up to the door of the car on ramps, but I am tired of doing repairs in the cold.
This is a great video! I'm looking at buying a used Santa Fe from this era (or the earlier ones with the 3.3L) and I'm wondering... since this is so common, have you seen it happen again on the same vehicle after fixing one? I saw one person left a comment on here about 8 months ago saying they replaced this part once at 85k and again at 111k. I'm not sure if I should steer clear of these engines if the replacement sensors still have this defect. I have also read some reports of total failures of these engines... like, suddenly exploding. Do you think if this leak went undetected and suddenly caused the car to dump all that oil while it was on the highway, would that be enough to cause this kind of failure? Finally, do you have any hands on experience with the previous Hyundai 3.3L (2006-2010 Sonata, 2007-2009 Santa Fe) and 3.8L (2006-2011 Azera, 2008-2012 Veracruz) engines? I know they frequently have a front valve cover leak that can ruin the alternator, but I'm curious if they have any other issues like the one in this video. I'm not a mechanic at all, just curious about your opinion. Hard to find cars as nice as these for a decent price these days. If the engine problems can be permanently fixed with the help of a youtube video, that makes them a tremendous value. Thank you!
Its very possible if this leak could ultimately cause an engine failure. As far as I know the older versions don't have this particular issue. Thank you so much for taking the time to watch!
I have a 2011 Sorento with a major oil leak. The video was phenomenal, but the work looked a bit beyond my skill level, so I took it to the shop. Besides the $20 sensor, the mechanic said I also required an intake gasket set at $65, plus 3.5 hours labor quoted out the door for $510.70. Does that sound right?
@@InTheShopthanks bro, I’m with all others in saying you are incredible. My long-standing tried true and trusted mechanic took 1 look at it and called it a rear main seal and refused to touch it. Even after I told him about his video. Guess I need to up my game…
2014 Cadenza 3.3L - just last week the oil light came on at low RPM - and oil started leaking like the waterfall you describe Took it into my favorite shop and they diagnosed the rear seal. If this is the actual issue, it could save me around $3k to pull the engine (?!?)...Not sure I could do it myself though
Hey , you're doing great work! I have oil leak on my 08 Entourage , at front passenger side of engine. I can see it accumulating on nearby distributor. Any common leaks in this area? I still haven't figured out exactly where it's coming from. Tia. Mark
I have the exact same model 2011 Kia Sorento 3.5L V6. It also has an oil leak so I took it into an independent shop today. The oil that I could see was on the bottom of the oil pan so I hoped it was simply the drain plug. The shop diagnosed it as a leak at the front timing cover and said it was about a 13 to 15 hour repair. They aren't taking on any "big jobs" right not and said the dealer would probably have to fix it. Unfortunately I didn't see your video until after they called me to report their diagnosis. After hearing your comment that it's the oil pressure sensor 99% of the time I'm wondering if the shop is wrong about it being the timing cover. I'm going to try to check it when I get the car back. Once I remove the engine cover do I need to start the engine to see if it's the oil pressure sensor? It wasn't exactly clear to me how you confirmed the source of the leak. Any thoughts on whether the shop could have mistaken an oil pressure sensor leak for a timing cover leak? Thanks!
Amazing video! I love how you show each and every bolt, hose and wire connector! I have had a slow leak in my 2011 Kia Sorento with the same engine for at least 3 years. One shop said it was the water pump seal. Your description of the leak sounds spot on though. Going to look tomorrow and try to see that valley. Do you think the sensor would leak this slow for that long though? Or is this usually an all or nothing failure? It's starting to slowly get worse. Keep up the great work!
Hey man. Very useful video! I followed your instructions, but then I made a big huge mistake. I overtightened the pressure switch and the port cracked and broke. I ordered the Cover Assembly Oil Drain replacement, but I need to figure out how to replace it with that big black coolant line in the middle. Any help with this would be appreciated. I can't find any tutorials on here about this.
Wow... Shout out 2u very focused, patient and thorough Hyundai needs mechanics like you it's funny my 2018 is burning oil and my close mechanic friends all say the same pvc valve probably failing but after watching your video I'm definitely considering trading my truck in ASAP because when I took to the dealership I got the vibe nightmare look on the mechanics face so definitely grateful for your video... Where are you located... Nevermind God bless and may you continue to give great knowledge and service ✌🏿👍💯
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
DO NOT over tighten the sensor. The threads are a tapered pipe thread and over tightening will lead to damage of the housing the sensor is threaded into.
Seen to late broke housing😢
Anybody ever replaced the piece the oil pressure switch screws into?
Part# 21160-3C700
I have one that has been fixed with JB weld. Not sure how that piece comes off.
@@samroberts7165I'm currently doing that. The housing is called the "Oil Cover". You have to drain the coolant, remove the coolant assembly, on the driver's side of the engine, remove the the center coolant pipe and then you'll have access to it. You'll need to replace the oil cover gasket, the two o rings on the center pipe, and the gaskets on the coolant assembly. I recommend adding a little RTV to the oil cover gasket, the seal it better. I torqued everything to spec and still had it leaking a tiny bit of oil. Have been doing this job since Monday afternoon. It is currently Thursday morning. I just want it done.
Man, like an open heart surgery to remove a blood clot. Seriously though, you are a top notch mechanic. Much respect.
Some of these jobs are very tedious for such a minor issue.
Excellent work thanks.
Thank you very much, Kia Sorento v6, 3.5. dealership found a oil leak, quoted me a rear main seal, valve cover, oil pan gasket and timing belt cover. $1700 but couldn’t tell me specifically which gasket was the fail point. A little Google and TH-cam tells me it’s a few gaskets and once sensor. Save me a Ton of money and anxiety.
Couldn't believe my luck when I found this video. My 2010 Santa Fe 3.5 with 326,000km threw the oil light on my way home from work. Pulled over and checked under the front end. Oil was running out the bottom of engine where it joins the tranny. Was sure it was the crank seal. That was until i saw this video and confirmed it was the oil sensor. Yippee !!! Still a tough repair but far easier than fixing a rear crank seal. Thanks a bunch! This was an easy-ish DIY fix with $150 in parts verses a full engine pull and likely well over $1000 in labour if it was a crank seal failure. Book hours for the sensor is 3 hrs crank seal 11 hrs
3 things I found helpful from my experience. Box end wrench on the sensor also did not work for me. The wrench body was too wide to get any swing. I used a socket which I slide in under the fuel rail. You could also grind out a section of the box end wrench where it interferes with the head to allow for more swing. Secondly the 6mm allen bolts to detach the lower plenum are quite deep. You'll need at least a 3" long key head to get down between the fuel rail and the ports to get to the bolts ( you can also loosen the fuel rails to get an extra millimeter or two of clearance if you have a shorter wrench and need to get the wrench head down farther). I also had to cut the sensor wire from the remoter starter to allow the upper plenum to e moved out of the way.
Great video, I've had to do this twice on our 2012 santa fe, the first time it happened I thought for sure we had a major engine failure. The first time I replaced the oil pressure sensor I used an OEM part from the dealer and it failed about 12 months after it was replaced and leaked oil again. The second time I purchased one from the local autoparts store and it's been holding for 2+ years.
I've had luck sneaking a deep socket in under the coolant crossover tube with a long wobble extension to get the old sensor out. Saves a lot of time messing with box wrenches. Also, I would recommend anyone looking to diagnose this to invest in one of those small USB inspection cameras or boroscopes from amazon. Mine cost me $25 and has saved my butt more than once looking at hard to reach places like under the plenum (it's how I discovered my original sensor was leaking).
Thanks for watching! I wish the OEM would update the part but they just keep making the same faulty sensor.
Great tutorial ,let me tell you my leak was POURING out at trans/motor seam underneath, I caught the low oil in time ,got it home after topping up the oil and leaving a trail across the county , I had to see this one with my own eyes in full failure, purchased a borescopes cam with reticulation and fired it up and good lord the Beverly hill Billie's had nothing on me and my bubbling crude ,except I made the Walton's millionaires. Ordering up the parts to sort it out and getting those rear sparkplugs done while its opened up . Again Thank You!!
Amazing video, this helped me diagnose the problem and I'm confident now that I can do the repair my self. Also thank you for showing the sensor up close to the camera, some of these smaller parts are so hard to match for sure without things like that.
You saved my ass and my sanity. Excellently easy to follow.
Did it within 4hrs.
Was back in action.
I couldn’t have done it without you.
All I can say is wow! You have got to be one of the most thorough mechanics I’ve seen on TH-cam. I just liked the video and subscribed. Keep up the most excellent work! And thank you so much for making this video! I have a 2011 Kia Sorrento SX that needs a pressure switch and I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but I’m not certified. This is a huge help and saves hundreds.
We just purchased a 2015 Kia with an oil leak. Taking it back to the dealership tomorrow, but I assume they are not going to fix the issue. After watching this video I am certain that the oil leak is caused by the oil sensor just like the video. Thank you so much for such a detailed video. If I have to perform the repair this video is going to come in very handy. Thank you so much "In the shop".
I used this today on my 2012 Sedona. Took me 11 hours and three trips to the hardware store, but I got it done. You did an excellent job explaining it, you have a great presence, and know your stuff. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Wait, a Sedona? Presume that's w/ the 3.8 engine. Same issue on that engine? -- that this guidance also applies to my 2009 Sedona? Common explanation for oil drizzling (slowly) down across belt side of my engine (and ruining the alternator - after several months) is leaking valve cover gaskets. I changed the front one, but leaking continued. (and ruined a second alternator) Was about to change the rear VCGasket... (may do that yet) But this is the first video I've come across confidently telling me the problem is with the oil pressure sensor (!).... (and min 2:30 shows how....) Yet what an long, long job (anything but an "easy fix) to get down to it!... Any further tips/thoughts from your Sedona experience?
I see the 2012 Sedona had the 3.5l engine. (unlike the 2009 with the 3.8l)... Still wondering if I've got the same issue? Not convinced. Yes, have the wetness behind the belts, but not having same "typical symptom" mentioned of oil "pouring out between engine and the transmission." But what else could be causing the wetness behind the belts....?
Did you have a leak ? Or was just a preventative maintenance. I have the same model Sedona as well.
@@dinscool85 The pressure sending unit cracked (the plastic portion) and oil was pouring out. I got about 15 miles to the gallon of oil. It was pretty expensive driving from Charlotte NC to Central Illinois.
@@AndyDeMontana crazy.. at what miles did that happen? Mine currently has 136k miles on it..
So I'm here because I'm shopping for a used SUV. Looked at 3 vehicles today with this engine, 2 Santa Fe's and 1 Sorento. ALL THREE of them had this leak! The oil was dripping off of the end of the transmission bellhousing, and to my uninformed eyes, it sure looked like a rear main seal to me. Now I know better. Great video...thanks!
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help!
One of the most thorough repair videos I have ever seen. Thank You for taking the time to make it. Even for the non-mechanic, it illustrates the complexity of engines and why repairs cost what they do.
Thank you! Comments like this mean the world to me.
Where is your shop located
Ty Cox I closed my shop a year ago to spend more time with my family. I make these videos out of my garage at home.
Excellent job. I wasted some money to those people to replace the gasket... still didn't get the problem fixed. Finally, I followed your video step by step to fix it myself. Thanks very much!!!
All the symptoms you've mentioned in this video are right there in my 2008 hyundai sonata v6. You saved me from replacing the rear main seal coz I thought it was shot. Thanks a million to you sir.
Thanks for watching! Hopefully this helps you.
One of the best examples of a how-to video I've seen. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you.
Thank you for a great video !!! I had to have this repair done 2x’s on my 2013 Sorento. Each time it was almost $800 😬😬😬 and it looks like it’s failing again with 203k on the motor. This sensor is a crappy design and made to fail. With the help from this video I believe I can attempt this myself, thanks again you may have just saved me $800 !!!
Glad I could help!
Spent the last few days between a few shops trying to figure out where my major oil leak in this exact area was coming from so thanks for putting this video up tremendous help!
Awesome! Glad I could help.
My 2012 Sedona's failed 700 miles from home. I limped it back at 55 most of the way, adding 2 quarts of oil every 20 miles. That was a LONG, EXPENSIVE drive home. Thanks for posting this - the fix looks time-consuming but very do-able.
Nice video! The fact that you have to disassemble the entire engine to get to a part that will most certainly fail on 90% of vehicles seems almost criminal by Kia!
Thank you! This video has not only educated me for the future but finally got me to stop chasing my tail around in circles trying to find this crazy oil leak that appears to be a rear main seal. Thanks again for saving me!
Glad I could help!
I followed your video, replacing oil sensor on my 2013...you saved me so much money..THANK YOU...YOUR AN AWESOME MECHANIC
Thank you so much. I just finished repairing my 2012 Sorento oil sensor leak. Being able to walk through this in advance and know what sizes of socket I needed was worth a lot to me.
Thank you for your in depth coverage here. I own a 2017 Santa Fe that has an oil leak. Not much is leaking but, it's enough to look into getting it repaired. I took it to my local mechanic who generally has done good work for me on multiple vehicles over the years. They definitely misdiagnosed my leak as the main rear seal. $900 later, I still have a leak! Taking it back tomorrow armed with information from your video.
Just finished this sensor replacement, your video was perfect, you saved me a lot of grief, appreciate your time, Thank You
Awesome! Glad I could help!
keep the good work my friend. you are the first young mechanic that actually knows his gig. all explained to perfection.
Thank you Esteban!
Great video. Was going to take our Santa Fe to a mechanic, but after watching your video, I am confident that I can change the sensor myself. Saved me a bunch of money. Thank-you, and keep up the good work.
Did you get the sensor changed?
@@InTheShop Yes, I did, and it all went smoothly. Had to grind a big notch in my 15/16' wrench to get enough movement to go to the next position.
My 2015 Santa Fe exhibiting same problem. 😮 Taking it to Hyundai dealer tomorrow for repair and prepared to pay big $$$$. 😢 Wish you were close to help me!! You did an awesome job! Kudos!
Don't forget to change the spark plugs when you have everything off, because it's almost the same procedure. They designed this engine to never get fixed so highly technical (they could have placed the oil sensor anywhere but.. ) same deal with the alternator have to take half the engine apart.
Thank you for this awesome video. I have a 2011 Kia Sorento with 79K but the 2.4L (4 cylinder) . It just started to leak some oil. Kia dealership said the timing belt cover/casket needs to be replaced for $1900, but at the same time, they seem like they didn't want the work. I thanked them and left. So, I will look at the top of the engine as you described. Again, thank you. Take care.
Your engine is not V-shaped, it's an inline 4 cylinder. Your oil pressure sensor is at a completely different location.
Thank you ! I was about to go crazy trying to figure out where and why my kia engine was dumping all of that oil. Thanks again!!
Great video and advise...also during this repair it would be a good time to replace your spark plugs and also replace your valve cover gaskets if you see oil seepage around where the valve covers seal to the cylinder heads...its a good time to do these when the plenums are off during this repair.
I think it'll be a perfect time to do a full service
Just an FYI for anyone with this issue. First, there is a bulletin on it from KIA. This may be covered by warranty even if outside it otherwise. Second, my sons Sedona just had this problem, and the oil did NOT leak to the back area of the valley and onto the rear main area. On his engine, the oil from the switch got pushed into the wiring insulation (in with the copper wire), the path went out to the right front (left looking at it from the front of car) to a group of solenoids mounted on the engine above the valve cover. Some of the oil also dripped onto the serpentine belt and got thrown around a bit. The dealer fixed it under warranty and also replaced some wiring since we complained. Don’t know if they got it all though, but it’s documented for later. The oil light would also sporadically illuminate.
I’m really happy this popped up in my google search! The leak definitely looked like a rear main to me, and it started at a few drops and went to a whole lot in less than a week. Thanks for the video!
I should amend my comment. My leak had all the symptoms of this one, and was even leaking from exactly the same location, but mine turned out to be a head gasket. I stopped counting after 4 stripped head boot threads in the block. Threaded inserts are holding strong so far!
This video was very helpful. Replaced my oil sensor and PVC valve in a few hours of time. Sadly, the oil sensor isn't the source of my oil leaking, so back to the drawing board.
Can't thank you enough for this video. This was exactly problem with my daughter's car.
Just had this happen this week on my 2011 Sedona. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without your video. Thank you very much . Shop wanted 800$
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much, I just got quoted for the same issue by a shop 1200 $ to replace transmission / engine seal and watching your video make so much sense , thanks a lot again. I will buy the sensor and replace it myself.
Nice job now I know to take this to my mechanic. There was a time when I would tackle the job but those days are gone. Thank you.
Glad to help
58k on our 2019 Sedona and noticed a stream of oil under the vehicle at startup - after topping off with a full quart of oil. Thank you for this video my friend!
Very good video. I had no luck using a wrench to loosen the sensor. I found that using a non-impact 3/8" drive 15/16" deep well socket was much easier. It is a bit shorter than its 1/2" drive counterpart, and that little difference in length gave me just enough room to get the socket on the sensor in that cramped little space. I also recommend that if you use shop towels to cover the intake so that nothing falls in that you make sure to remove them before reassembly. Don't ask me how I know.
You are an amazing teacher, sir.. make more videos.. you are very thorough and patient in detailing the solution!
Thanks for posting this... i had to perform this change-out yesterday. It took a while - I took my time - but your step-by-step was a huge help! I couldnt get a 24mm box wrench to work the way you did but I was able to fish a 24mm ratchet into the valley and get it out that way. Got it done... hope I never have to do it again!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Comments like this are why I do this.
Just wanted to thank you so much for your detailed video on replacing this sensor. You can tell with your presentation you know your stuff. Much appreciated and I have subscribed to your channel.
Thank you! Glad I could help.
@@InTheShop I had taken it by two shops and they both had me quoted on replacing the main seal , one of them at the cost of $2800. Thankfully, I boyfriend decided to investigate and came across your video and you proved him right!
Thank you for posting, even though I was working with the 3.8 L lambda (2011 Veracruz Limited) oil cooler removal and knock sensors replacement. It helped me avoid a potentially huge 🔥 issue with the gas rails. Went and rewatched multiple times!
Well done! Miss having your shop around, always honest and trustworthy. Peace!
I'm hopeful this is what's wrong with the santa fe.. taking it for a 2nd opinion Monday here's hopping... Thxs
Your video was instrumental in getting my '11 Sedona back on the road. Many, many thanks!
Glad it helped! Thank you Arthur.
Thanks for taking the time to make the videos that you make.
Great video thought my block was cracked and found this video and had it fixed in no time!
I'm sure glad I watched the whole video. Quite a few things I wouldn't have expected, like coolant from the throttle body leaking and how tedious removing the oil pressure sensor will be. Good job thanks for the video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Hopefully it helped you.
Great job troubleshooting and not just throwing parts at the problem. Nice that you mention the bolt sizes.
Thank you Augie!
@@InTheShop Great video I have the same car with variable valve timing solenoid exhaust Left i believe leaking oil but i can not find it. can you help please
Thanks for the great video! I am tackling this job tomorrow on my wife's Santa Fe. It would be nice if you did have the fastener torque specs. I bought aftermarket parts from RockAuto and Amazon that I am hoping will work out well. Cost was about $50 compared to $200+ that Hyundai wanted. Total shop cost with labor for doing this job at a central MN Hyundai dealer was quoted ~$650.
How did you make out?
Came out great! Bought a set of extended metric allen wrench sockets at Home Depot for about $22 to better clear the fuel rails. Used my torque wrench to do a "reverse calculation" of the torque specs that I felt comfortable with (I prefer to remove any chances of somehow breaking off a bolt!). Had to used two different brands of open end wrenches that I had to loosen the sensor -- flipping one wrench back and forth didn't work. Probably made about 100 mini-stroke turns with alternating wrenches to get it out -- this is a tight spot with very little clearance. T!hanks again for a great video!
Excellent diagnostics and explanation. This *may* be a potential issue on the 3.3T engines as well. More owners (G70/Stinger) are seeing a slight oil seep between the engine and trans.
Thank you!
My cadenza has a 3.3.3l had to remove the injector.. they're under the lower plenum on mine
Great video, very detailed
A friend of my brother in-law had this very issue and he asked me if I could do it for him. The job went well. His check engine light was on with two codes.
One is for the evap system and the other is intake manifold runner performance code is p200a, what can you tell me about this
Did you find out the issue?
Thanks this was exactly what was wrong and with your help we replaced t ourselves today.
Not sure what kind of idiot would gives this video a thumbs down, but thanks for making it. Seriously. Just did the job today in the driveway, can't imagine how much time or even money you saved my ass. If you're ever in West Michigan, beers on me friend.
Haha Thank you! I'm glad I was able to help.
Man your one Great mechanic dude. 👍
Thank you so much you saved my life know i see what was leaking this whole time
I want tom thank you so much for all then insight on replacing the oil pressure switch. I also thought it was a main seal until I found your video..Your insight was spot on and your video was clear and easy to follow along..Thanks again
Very detailed video, any chance you can do one on replacing the oil filter housing. That one is also very common leak that is simular to the oil pressure sensor leak on the 2011 Kia Sorento 3.5. Thank you
Thanks Joe. If I get one in for that I absolutely will.
Yeah mine was bleeding from that housing. It's a bear to get to the bolts. Seems that 3.3 and 3.5 share the same oil/cooling housings.
very helpful, was thinking rear main, but i see its from the buried oil sensor.
Amazing. Doing this tomorrow and using this guide, fantastic detail!
Great diagnosis. got a 2016 sorento v6 - 66K miles, oil is leaking. oil sensor is now extended warranty 150,000 miles, 10 years, problem is dealership says its lower oil pan gasket and oil filter housing both leaking (and not the oil sensor), they would not do the lower oil pan gasket by itself, said both have to be done at same time due to one causing the other to get worse if only one done....but they are not 100% on the oil filter housing. said oil change needed first, which I had already done. question, could the oil filter housing have a flattened gasket (where it mounts to the engine block) as opposed to the entire plastic housing itself needing to be replaced? if I can figure out how to get the oil filter housing off (it's top mount oil filter on this 3.3 V6 Kia) I can see about if the gasket is bad. But man it looks like it's real hard to get that oil filter housing unbolted. (subscribed!!!)
Wow. Very interesting. Did you solve the problem?
@@ericjones363 well, I took the oil filter itself off, inspected, took the o-ring off, put it back on and put as much oil on it as possible, then reseated it. It's winter-time now so I put some paper towels under vehicle and I keep checking for leaks. Leaks seems to have slowed way down, but I still see some fresh oil on paper towels and need to further investigate. Maybe it slowed due to winter-time? I will certainly re-visit this when warm weather is back (in a couple months) and see what she looks like. Thanks for asking and I'll update this When I know more. It's a real bummer. Again, I appreciate you asking.
This works also for the 2011-14 Sedona vans also. If you are doing spark plugs you basically do this until you get the upper plenum off but not the lower one.
100% Thank you for watching!
Is it the same for the 2019 Sedonas too?
@@ericjones363 Those years (3rd gen) use the Lambda Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) 3.3-liter V6 which is a different engine that in this video, but the oil pressure sensor is in a similar location. th-cam.com/video/-C3MqHg76Sg/w-d-xo.html
Very nice video! Great work. I have a very significant oil leak from my 2015 Genesis V8 5.0. The leak appears down at the weep hole near the bottom of the bell housing. It leaks quick enough with the car idling in park that I am not driving it. I am wondering if you know that the problem you fixed in your video could be the same on my 5.0. I downloaded the hyundai tech manual for my car (19.00$) and it seems to indicate there is an oil pressure sensor in the valley as you had on the car in the video...but I think the manual is translated from Korean, so its a little unclear. Same set up you think? Thank you.
Very good procedure for repair. Kia USA issued letter on this: Extended coverage 15 yrs - 150,000 miles. Dated 07 April 2022. V6's
1st step might be to disconnect Battery. Lots of loose connectors hanging about. Again great job!
Best video i seen on this yet.
Great video presentation, had this repair done at local shop and since then santa fe loses coolant? No visible leakage and none in oil, any ideas? Throttle body? Thanks for any suggestions.
Wow he sounds honest.. most mechanics lie.. I paid for spark plugs and valve cover gasket and My Mechanic cracked the valve cover and didn’t tell me, and oil was splashing all over. I paid $25 for a glue. Temporarily because I am afraid that replacing the valve cover will solve the problem. I’m hesitating..
Incredible video! I believe this is my issue on my 2012. It seems to be leaking from somewhere above the starter... which, to me, corresponds to the weep hole at the end of the valley you described (on the right hand side of the engine). At least that's where I think it's coming from. Does that sound about right? Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the process.
NM... confirmed the oil pressure switch is leaking using my borescope.
Excellent video quality. I am working through changing the oil filter housing on a 12 sorento. I wasnt able to find any video that went past the oil sensor. Would have really enjoyed a video like this that went through that
Thank you!
@@InTheShop absolutely. This video helped me figure it all out 🤙
Encountered this issue on my 2012 Santa Fe at just over 30K! Luckily my warranty covered the repair. The oil filter housing had to be replaced as well. Good grief.
I've replaced the sensor once before and I believe it's leaking again. What causes that to fail? And did you Teflon tape the threads or put anything over the threads on the sensor before reinstalling?
Really? Did you solve the problem?
The video made the job go flawless. Thank you!!
Awesome! Glad I could help!
Nice video! I just wish I seen it before I pulled the trans! Lol
Thank you!!
What do you think about relocating the senor to the firewall via a hyd. Line. That way if it ever happens again it's an easy fix.
I have a kia soul 2016 tht started leaking... come to find out its a small hole a little bit above the oil pan.... what do u recommend? I'm using sealant today but I need it fixed permanently
Excellent video. Awesome instruction. I may have to be doing this for my friend's wifes car. Your instruction makes this possible to do!
Almost took mine to the shop assuming it was rear main, thanks.
No problem! Hopefully this takes care of it for you.
I had this leak fixed at my neighborhood mechanic shop for 420 dollars...it was worth every penny letting someone else do it.
Really? My mechanic just quoted me $450 including oil change. What model is your car?
2012 sedona
I have a oil leak did not lose pressure but lost a lot of oil. So I got it in the air and inspected and discovered there is a safety inspection plate or just a plate right next to the flex pipe and location is on motor block bottom easy access just not sure if that is my issue thank you
So thorough, it would be fun to watch even if you didn’t have a kia/hyundai! I don’t see however which model years this affects?
Thanks l did a oil sensor replaced it you video was great
You’re a good technician
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
What to say great video too have the same problem video made the job easy and save a guy money. Great work. I’ve been doing auto glass for 18 years now need to make videos to help people thanks again
Mine is pooling middle of the transmission but the leak appears to be coming from the piece that is attached to the side of the oil filter. I only see spots on the ground. I am going to wash down the current oil and hope my leak is from that gasket since I don't have a garage and it is a bit wintery here. I've replaced head gaskets in the cold. Rolled a transmission out with snow up to the door of the car on ramps, but I am tired of doing repairs in the cold.
Gonna be replacing the sensor while I change the plugs and do the valve cover gasket.
Smart Idea!
This is a great video! I'm looking at buying a used Santa Fe from this era (or the earlier ones with the 3.3L) and I'm wondering... since this is so common, have you seen it happen again on the same vehicle after fixing one? I saw one person left a comment on here about 8 months ago saying they replaced this part once at 85k and again at 111k. I'm not sure if I should steer clear of these engines if the replacement sensors still have this defect. I have also read some reports of total failures of these engines... like, suddenly exploding. Do you think if this leak went undetected and suddenly caused the car to dump all that oil while it was on the highway, would that be enough to cause this kind of failure?
Finally, do you have any hands on experience with the previous Hyundai 3.3L (2006-2010 Sonata, 2007-2009 Santa Fe) and 3.8L (2006-2011 Azera, 2008-2012 Veracruz) engines? I know they frequently have a front valve cover leak that can ruin the alternator, but I'm curious if they have any other issues like the one in this video.
I'm not a mechanic at all, just curious about your opinion. Hard to find cars as nice as these for a decent price these days. If the engine problems can be permanently fixed with the help of a youtube video, that makes them a tremendous value. Thank you!
Its very possible if this leak could ultimately cause an engine failure. As far as I know the older versions don't have this particular issue. Thank you so much for taking the time to watch!
I have a 2011 Sorento with a major oil leak. The video was phenomenal, but the work looked a bit beyond my skill level, so I took it to the shop. Besides the $20 sensor, the mechanic said I also required an intake gasket set at $65, plus 3.5 hours labor quoted out the door for $510.70. Does that sound right?
That sounds about right
@@InTheShopthanks bro, I’m with all others in saying you are incredible. My long-standing tried true and trusted mechanic took 1 look at it and called it a rear main seal and refused to touch it. Even after I told him about his video. Guess I need to up my game…
Awesome, you explained loud and clear. Thanks
2014 Cadenza 3.3L - just last week the oil light came on at low RPM - and oil started leaking like the waterfall you describe Took it into my favorite shop and they diagnosed the rear seal. If this is the actual issue, it could save me around $3k to pull the engine (?!?)...Not sure I could do it myself though
I would absolutely inspect this before pulling the motor. This is a relatively simple job.
Let me know what they find.
I jus did my cadenza today after watching your video. Only difference is that the injectorand fuel rails are under the lower plenum.
Thank you. Great video btw. Saved me tons. Kia wanted $897.44 to do it
"Injectors and fuel rails"
Hey , you're doing great work!
I have oil leak on my 08 Entourage , at front passenger side of engine. I can see it accumulating on nearby distributor. Any common leaks in this area? I still haven't figured out exactly where it's coming from. Tia. Mark
I have the exact same model 2011 Kia Sorento 3.5L V6. It also has an oil leak so I took it into an independent shop today. The oil that I could see was on the bottom of the oil pan so I hoped it was simply the drain plug. The shop diagnosed it as a leak at the front timing cover and said it was about a 13 to 15 hour repair. They aren't taking on any "big jobs" right not and said the dealer would probably have to fix it. Unfortunately I didn't see your video until after they called me to report their diagnosis. After hearing your comment that it's the oil pressure sensor 99% of the time I'm wondering if the shop is wrong about it being the timing cover. I'm going to try to check it when I get the car back. Once I remove the engine cover do I need to start the engine to see if it's the oil pressure sensor? It wasn't exactly clear to me how you confirmed the source of the leak. Any thoughts on whether the shop could have mistaken an oil pressure sensor leak for a timing cover leak? Thanks!
My 2016 Hyundai sante fe has a similar engine layout to this, do I need to pull the intakes etc. To replace the filter housing assembly
Amazing video! I love how you show each and every bolt, hose and wire connector!
I have had a slow leak in my 2011 Kia Sorento with the same engine for at least 3 years. One shop said it was the water pump seal. Your description of the leak sounds spot on though. Going to look tomorrow and try to see that valley.
Do you think the sensor would leak this slow for that long though? Or is this usually an all or nothing failure? It's starting to slowly get worse.
Keep up the great work!
Thank you! the sensor could start off as a small leak and progressively get worse.
Hey man. Very useful video! I followed your instructions, but then I made a big huge mistake. I overtightened the pressure switch and the port cracked and broke. I ordered the Cover Assembly Oil Drain replacement, but I need to figure out how to replace it with that big black coolant line in the middle. Any help with this would be appreciated. I can't find any tutorials on here about this.
Same thing happened to me my 2015 Kia Sedona the thred got stripped. What part number you ordered did you have any luck?
Were you using a torque wrench?
Great video. Described my exact issue and the procedure was bang on. Thanks👍
Will this apply to an 03 Kia Sorento? Thanks
Wow... Shout out 2u very focused, patient and thorough Hyundai needs mechanics like you it's funny my 2018 is burning oil and my close mechanic friends all say the same pvc valve probably failing but after watching your video I'm definitely considering trading my truck in ASAP because when I took to the dealership I got the vibe nightmare look on the mechanics face so definitely grateful for your video... Where are you located... Nevermind God bless and may you continue to give great knowledge and service ✌🏿👍💯
What spark plugs would you use while on there? So many choices out there. Which ones are best?
I typically recommend NGK plugs for imported vehicles. I have had the best luck with them.
Ty, very thorough. Helped me alot, I'm no mechanic but now I feel like one 😅😂👌👌
Awesome! Thank you!