This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things th-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
You can tell when someone is a professional by the way they keep their equipment, yours is always clean and well maintained. Nice job to you and your crew all top notch.😎
Apparently there's some trolls following your channel giving thumbs down. They must be very jealous of y'alls extremely hard work and attention to detail. Love your work and keep posting videos.
Can’t please everyone man right?? I know I do my best and that’s all I can do! I wish they’d give me constructive criticism instead of a thumbs down... I’m here to learn too
Great video! You made a good point in your video.... there was a warm up taking place, so then air inside the shop was warmer than the air inside the insulation cavity. So, the plastic did not cause the condensation.... it just kept it away from the insulation. Thanks for you many videos, I’ll be tackling a good size farm shop soon. I have watched many of your videos several times each. Thanks again and God Bless you, your family and employees.
Kyle, really enjoy your videos. I am a mechanical engineer and building a house in Finland (much the same climate as where you are). Before I started I read Joseph Lstiburek's book, "Builder's Guide to Cold Climates." It has very good information about vapor barriers and placement. The basic principal is that the temperature varies through the wall structure and as long as the temp is higher than the dew point you will avoid condensation. In our climate (primarily heating-no Air con) the vapor barrier should be on the warm side - like you build. The house wrap you put on the outside works as a wind stop, and is vapor permeable so doesn't really come into play. It is also good to keep the other side ventilated so that any moisture that builds up during wet periods can can dry during dry periods, also how you build. To go to the next level you could start taping the seams of the vapor barrier and add a heat recovery ventilator -not sure people would be willing to pay the premium though. Again really enjoy the videos and your obvious love for your job. Keep up the good work.
Another great video! Looks like you’ve learned a lot from Greg. You should ask him for a raise. He seems to be running circles around everyone at the job site. Outstanding work.
Tip on unloading stuff like that with a skidsteer. Slide the pallet out about halfway, then lower the boom on the loader and tip the forks back at the same time with half the load weight still on the truck. It uses the weight of the load to tip the forks back if the loader hydraulics can't do it and it will prevent the load from tipping forward and smashing on the ground when you set it down.
The vapor barrier is fine. You have those cords that create an air gap that will allow it to dry out. Only thing I would do different is tape the seams. But even then, you have a vapor open house wrap that can allow what moisture does get through to dry out.
Happy to see you and your team back at it after that arctic weather! Ceiling looks great and yes 1/8" over that run seems perfect to me. Thanks as always brother!
Good morning, I'm new to your videos. I wish I knew about you when I had my building put up. Lot's of great information. My contractor missed by 2 inches on my steel ceiling, not to mention the overall building specifications. Thanks for a great video, you take care and have a good weekend.
quality work shows the pride your team takes with each build. Live in northern Taxinois (Illinois) and if I win lottery tonight I would pay extra to build me a shop up in cheddarville- Wisconsin. Enjoy the videos and builds.
Kyle excellent job on the ceiling & the plywood really looks great! I am looking forward to the mezzanine video that will be really interesting. Thanks as always for the excellent content & video!
I live in Texas so the insulation rating is a little different ; however, my drafting skills and building expertise say you are completely right in the fact that you want you outside to breathe and thing inside vapor barrier to have condensation in the interior of the building (provided you you regulate the humiy inside the building)that provides the same function as a brick fascia to sheathing breathable space. It's super cool to see the difference in building structures like this from the South to North so good on you my guy keep it up!
100% Agree with Your VAPOR Barrier Techniques = Its Critical = Quality Build you all DO Keep up the Great Work Every time I watch your Videos = LIKE your Lifts I Fell off a 20 Foot Ladder - Totally Blew out my Left ankle Had to have Surgery Titanium plate with 15 Screws IT has taken Year PLUS to Recover To any and ALL who may view this Comment = AVOID Ladders at all Cost Doctors Told me the Fall Could have Killed ME ..
Your videos are a great help! I have a 56 x 36 Morton shop with 16' side walls that I'm planning to finish the ceiling and top 8' of walls with ribbed metal. The roof trusses are at 8' spacing and I want to be sure that the metal panels I choose can span 8'. I will be either blowing in or batt fiberglass R38 insulatiion. The Morton guy told me they use 26ga panels with ribs spaced 12" (the same as they use on the exterior walls and roof). He said not to use Menards 29ga because it will "sag" over time. However, I noticed that Menards panels have ribs spaced at 9" so it seems that would give the panel a little extra strength even though 29ga since there are more ribs per panel. Menards also has a "premium pro-rib" panel 28ga with ribs spaced 9". I see from your video that you are putting up panels on 8' OC trusses. What do you use and/or recommend? Am I safe using the Menards panels? I can source them locally, so that would be preferred. Thanks for any help you can provide!
Great video A lot of good practical info that people can use Thanks Enjoyed the section on vapor barrier Maybe you and Matt should produce a video together and put all of these question to rest One good builder and one good science guy. It was Eddie Haskell
When you & Greg were talking about "Leave It To Beaver", I believe you were referring to "Eddie Haskell". Love the way you miter your corners! Looks amazing, Bro!
Arauco plywood is some good stuff. I just built some awesome shelves for a customer this week out of that stuff. And its reasonably priced. Kyle the vids are always on point. Thanks for sharing buddy.
On the raise cord trusses I think you should start your roof vapor barrier at the bottom then work your way to peak on both side that way your top sheet doesn't get condensation running off of it and then it will run on top of the bottom and the moisture will get to the ceiling insulation. Depend on how much condensation maybe even the walls
Awesome vid, as always! Quick note: I noticed your DB suspenders are clipped on the wrong sides at the back; I find mine more comfortable when they form an 'X' (Right strap clips onto the left D-loop, and visa-versa).
A vapor barrier is not to stop condensation to migrate through the insulation and condensating on the outside cladding, but to stop if from actually saturating the insulation, reducing its effectiveness. Warm air holds more moisture, and since the building is generally warmer then the outside air, the moisture will be attracted to colder surfaces, normally the walls.
@@marshallmurrell4583: House wrap is to stop the infiltration of the wind (dust) from the outside. It's semi-permeable so any moisture (condensation) is vented.
AKman - we tape all joints here in South Australia too, but for the opposite reason, summer time we get over 40c regularly (not sure what that is in Fahrenheit) so get lots of condensation in the morning.
Kyle, I met you at JLC in Providence this weekend, really appreciate you taking the time to chat. Solid dude, one quick suggestion, comment, thought..... have u ever looked into switching to button cap nails instead of cardboard washers.? Stinger is one I have had good success with. Love the channel
It's really interesting to follow you work, thanks. Maybe you can address some questions? Why metal? Wouldn't any composite materials be lighter and more durable? Metal surfaces - when cold - get moist. Don't you have rust issues on tools and machines in such workshops? Metal also absorbs heat - what about climate control in both summer and winter? What about cellphone and radio signals? You're building a faraday cage(?), right?
Personally I would never use plastic vapor barrier again. Used one in a guest house I built. Moisture found it's way behind it and caused mold and rot. We just ripped it out and all the old insulation too. Fixing the rotten wood, will stain and odor block prime before reinsulated. Cause a ton of damage. Just think what happens if moisture get behind VB. I have found in my research since that for every nail hole sized penetration in a VB you can get 1 pint of water per year. It's then trapped. Seeing as those are steel buildings and very leaky, air, you may be ok. If you want it sealed 2 inches of closed cell spray foam on the outside will be the best then fill the rest with more or other insulation.
Totally can understand. Always a constant battle for what is not only the best... but also affordable and sensible for the client. I don’t have all the answers but am always willing to educate the client on well spent money vs needless money
I'd like to see how you do your corners on your wall to ceiling trim. I have an idea of how I'm going to do it on my shop but I'm sure you do it the right way.
Once again an amazing job. I admire your attention to detail. Hard to find these days. Do you use a lighter gauge steel for the interior than the exterior?
A well groomed beard looks very professional. When it gets really scruffy, it makes one look like a wannabe extra from Duck Dynasty. I can't say I really like that look, but, of course, à chacun son gôut as les froggies say. So do what makes you happy. For my money, the well-groomed look is the clear winner.
Metal ceiling is fun until you have to cut in and install overhead HVAC as you go. Lol. I agree with you though, as long as you have clean runs to fasten - it's very satisfying
I’m redoing my camper at the moment and it has no vapor barrier so I got the walls off and pulled the insulation out and it’s soaked and the metal outside is sweating a lot on the inside so I’ll be adding a barrier
I really enjoy your videos. They are very helpful! Thank you. One question, are the trusses installed 8' OC? I assumed that I would have to install 2x4 nailers 2' OC to perpendicular to the trusses to support the sheet metal. Thanks again!
Love watching your videos. I am having a 57x72 built this spring here in southeast Nebraska. I am going to do a 20x32 room/mezzanine. Can you show how you guys attach the beam/ledger to the wall of the pole barn? Are you using structural lags like the GRK RSS? How many per column? Thanks!! Keep up the good work.
Not sure how it works on a steel building, but the system on our house (from BuildingScience.com) has no vapor barrier on the inside. It has solid EPS on the outside with steel siding over that (rainscreen construction -- no water penetration from the outside), and bat insulation on the inside between the studs. The big difference in design is drywall inside vs. steel. I would be very curious to see what they say on this. I contacted them and sent them a link to this video. It will be interesting to hear what they have to say!
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like on putting up the ceiling panels, you are screwing off the leading end and nailing off the tail end, with the next panel overlapping to screw off both ends of each panel. Is that right? If so, I guess I just never noticed that detail before. Always learning something from watching you work. Thanks for sharing!
The reason you get mold in insulation is do a lack of insulation where hot and cold can meet easily or a leaky through the siding or roof. The best insulation I see from remodeling projects is paper back insulation from the 50s. When the exterior walls could breath from using built rite or 1x6 boards. The problem is they aren't efficient. So now we choke off the flow of air. The only problem by doing that is if you have a hole it leaks A LOT of water. A 1" hole in the vapor barrier can transfer 30 qts of water. So by putting up a plastic and not sealing the seems along with having an open space behind the metal walls is a problem in cold climates. You may want to reconsider how you seal the vapor barrier. It must be 100% or nothing.
Looks good! I use the same AC ply from Menards for my shop projects, it is good stuff. What is the biggest problem with the Hitachi, Metabo HPT nailer you have?
Great videos! Quality work! Question...I'm contemplating using Menards material for my post frame ceiling. They have a Dura Panel with a lighter gauge of steel. 0128 thickness which I figure is 30 gauge. Do you think it will hold R30 blown in insulation on 8ft OC trusses?
Is metal ceiling a condensation issue during temperature swings if you don't condition space 24/7? I was hoping to use metal ceiling, but temp swings and humidity levels coupled with the fact I will not condition space all the time has me wondering?
i have bought that exact plywood before and attempted to build cabinets from it, but of the 8 sheets i purchase, 2 of them came de-laminated. :(, so good luck with the imported AC plywood
we need a Menard's where i live , the orange and the blue big box stores seems to only carry damaged , out of square , poorly glues reject plywood . even their oak , maple and birch veneer plywood comes unglued before you even finish your projects .
I see that you’re installing panels top down too. Would that make the overlap backwards in the case of high humidity running down the panels and then getting trapped, or does the overlap act as a stop? I’d guess that the reveal is cleaner looking installed from the top down though.
With the 8 foot spacing between the trusses how to you get around in the attic? I am thinking of the insulation installers climbing from truss to truss.
This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things th-cam.com/users/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
You can tell when someone is a professional by the way they keep their equipment, yours is always clean and well maintained. Nice job to you and your crew all top notch.😎
Apparently there's some trolls following your channel giving thumbs down. They must be very jealous of y'alls extremely hard work and attention to detail. Love your work and keep posting videos.
Can’t please everyone man right?? I know I do my best and that’s all I can do! I wish they’d give me constructive criticism instead of a thumbs down... I’m here to learn too
Great video! You made a good point in your video.... there was a warm up taking place, so then air inside the shop was warmer than the air inside the insulation cavity. So, the plastic did not cause the condensation.... it just kept it away from the insulation.
Thanks for you many videos, I’ll be tackling a good size farm shop soon. I have watched many of your videos several times each. Thanks again and God Bless you, your family and employees.
The day is better when there is some witty Greg banter.
Kyle, really enjoy your videos. I am a mechanical engineer and building a house in Finland (much the same climate as where you are). Before I started I read Joseph Lstiburek's book, "Builder's Guide to Cold Climates." It has very good information about vapor barriers and placement. The basic principal is that the temperature varies through the wall structure and as long as the temp is higher than the dew point you will avoid condensation. In our climate (primarily heating-no Air con) the vapor barrier should be on the warm side - like you build. The house wrap you put on the outside works as a wind stop, and is vapor permeable so doesn't really come into play. It is also good to keep the other side ventilated so that any moisture that builds up during wet periods can can dry during dry periods, also how you build. To go to the next level you could start taping the seams of the vapor barrier and add a heat recovery ventilator -not sure people would be willing to pay the premium though. Again really enjoy the videos and your obvious love for your job. Keep up the good work.
Only being 1/8 off on that many runs is outstanding. I'm a Fence Contractor and I would settle for that every time. Great job 👍
Settling and accepting are two different things right. I accept we could only do the 1/8... not meaning I don’t want to do 0”
Another great video! Looks like you’ve learned a lot from Greg. You should ask him for a raise. He seems to be running circles around everyone at the job site. Outstanding work.
Lol not sure if I take this comment seriously... or if you are joking
Thumbs up for Greg!
Tip on unloading stuff like that with a skidsteer. Slide the pallet out about halfway, then lower the boom on the loader and tip the forks back at the same time with half the load weight still on the truck. It uses the weight of the load to tip the forks back if the loader hydraulics can't do it and it will prevent the load from tipping forward and smashing on the ground when you set it down.
The vapor barrier is fine. You have those cords that create an air gap that will allow it to dry out. Only thing I would do different is tape the seams. But even then, you have a vapor open house wrap that can allow what moisture does get through to dry out.
Happy to see you and your team back at it after that arctic weather! Ceiling looks great and yes 1/8" over that run seems perfect to me. Thanks as always brother!
great feeling when we got back to work after the polar vortex
Greg “where yo goin bro, are you new”! Lost it 😂😂😂
These vids rock ballz Kyle ! Mad props to your brother, and to your crew, of course.
Good morning, I'm new to your videos. I wish I knew about you when I had my building put up. Lot's of great information. My contractor missed by 2 inches on my steel ceiling, not to mention the overall building specifications. Thanks for a great video, you take care and have a good weekend.
that plywood looks great and i love the vaulted ceiling just another great video you guys make it look soooo easy
I would love to call that building mine. Great job Kyle, pat your team on the back they are great.
Thanks Bret
quality work shows the pride your team takes with each build. Live in northern Taxinois (Illinois) and if I win lottery tonight I would pay extra to build me a shop up in cheddarville- Wisconsin. Enjoy the videos and builds.
Thumbs up! Especially I think it was Greg’s singing!!
I love seeing the interiors being finished. I keep stealing ideas for when i finish mine.
Awesome mike that’s the goal
Kyle excellent job on the ceiling & the plywood really looks great! I am looking forward to the mezzanine video that will be really interesting. Thanks as always for the excellent content & video!
We have Vapor Barrier in all 3 of our Pole Barns. Keep up the good work.
Do you have a vapor barrier in the ceiling as well as Kyle did?
@@gqk24132 Yes
@@VideosByAl Thanks for help. With drywall or metal ceiling?
@@georgekarras7446 Metal. Takes less framing, and less labor..
I live in Texas so the insulation rating is a little different ; however, my drafting skills and building expertise say you are completely right in the fact that you want you outside to breathe and thing inside vapor barrier to have condensation in the interior of the building (provided you you regulate the humiy inside the building)that provides the same function as a brick fascia to sheathing breathable space. It's super cool to see the difference in building structures like this from the South to North so good on you my guy keep it up!
That would be great to see them blow in the ceiling. The wall sheets are so tight, it looks like it came off a roll ! Smashed that like button !
Give Greg a raise!
100% Agree with Your VAPOR Barrier Techniques
= Its Critical
= Quality Build you all DO
Keep up the Great Work
Every time I watch your Videos
= LIKE your Lifts
I Fell off a 20 Foot Ladder
- Totally Blew out my Left ankle
Had to have Surgery
Titanium plate with 15 Screws
IT has taken Year PLUS to Recover
To any and ALL who may view this Comment
= AVOID Ladders at all Cost
Doctors Told me the Fall Could have Killed ME
..
Nice work, nice to see a happy working environment!
That AC was well worth it nothing like clear side showing.
Yeah man I agree
This thumbs for you Greg!
I think you have the coolest job
Agree man
Your videos are a great help!
I have a 56 x 36 Morton shop with 16' side walls that I'm planning to finish the ceiling and top 8' of walls with ribbed metal. The roof trusses are at 8' spacing and I want to be sure that the metal panels I choose can span 8'. I will be either blowing in or batt fiberglass R38 insulatiion. The Morton guy told me they use 26ga panels with ribs spaced 12" (the same as they use on the exterior walls and roof). He said not to use Menards 29ga because it will "sag" over time. However, I noticed that Menards panels have ribs spaced at 9" so it seems that would give the panel a little extra strength even though 29ga since there are more ribs per panel. Menards also has a "premium pro-rib" panel 28ga with ribs spaced 9".
I see from your video that you are putting up panels on 8' OC trusses. What do you use and/or recommend? Am I safe using the Menards panels? I can source them locally, so that would be preferred.
Thanks for any help you can provide!
👍And another one👍 for you Greg....
Excellent work as always! Kyle your buildings are on another level of awesome. I hope one day I can have one built by you and your crew.
Thanks brother. Means a lot
Great video A lot of good practical info that people can use Thanks Enjoyed the section on vapor barrier Maybe you and Matt should produce a video together and put all of these question to rest One good builder and one good science guy.
It was Eddie Haskell
When you & Greg were talking about "Leave It To Beaver", I believe you were referring to "Eddie Haskell". Love the way you miter your corners! Looks amazing, Bro!
Arauco plywood is some good stuff. I just built some awesome shelves for a customer this week out of that stuff. And its reasonably priced. Kyle the vids are always on point. Thanks for sharing buddy.
Thanks brother
Where is that ply available? Pretty sure the HD doesn't carry it.
They actually do carry it in stock at the local Home Depots in Pittsburgh Pa.
Looking great!
👍 for Greg!
Wowsa! The precision and skill is inspiring.
Looking good guys.... great job
Excellent as usual!!,
I want to see what got cut out between 5:54 and 5:55 because it had to be good. Great to see you and have short chat with you at JLC Live!
Awesome work Kyle! 👍🏻👊🏻
you made quick work of that!
On the raise cord trusses I think you should start your roof vapor barrier at the bottom then work your way to peak on both side that way your top sheet doesn't get condensation running off of it and then it will run on top of the bottom and the moisture will get to the ceiling insulation. Depend on how much condensation maybe even the walls
For you Gregg. 👍🏻
Awesome vid, as always!
Quick note: I noticed your DB suspenders are clipped on the wrong sides at the back; I find mine more comfortable when they form an 'X' (Right strap clips onto the left D-loop, and visa-versa).
Interesting Kevin now I feel stupid but I think you are right. Thanks
Awesome job. You guys make it look so easy.
Nice work fellas!!!
BEAUTIFUL JOB GUYS ‼️👍👍👍👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
A vapor barrier is not to stop condensation to migrate through the insulation and condensating on the outside cladding, but to stop if from actually saturating the insulation, reducing its effectiveness.
Warm air holds more moisture, and since the building is generally warmer then the outside air, the moisture will be attracted to colder surfaces, normally the walls.
@@JorgTheElder thought that was what the house wrap was supposed to do.
@@marshallmurrell4583: House wrap is to stop the infiltration of the wind (dust) from the outside. It's semi-permeable so any moisture (condensation) is vented.
Love that AC plywood! Would you come to Minnesota to build!
Eddie Haskell!!!! from leave it to beaver
in alaska we would tape off all semes and staple holes for our -50 below
AKman - we tape all joints here in South Australia too, but for the opposite reason, summer time we get over 40c regularly (not sure what that is in Fahrenheit) so get lots of condensation in the morning.
@@timjones3427 that's interesting I did not think or realized that
Kyle, I met you at JLC in Providence this weekend, really appreciate you taking the time to chat. Solid dude, one quick suggestion, comment, thought..... have u ever looked into switching to button cap nails instead of cardboard washers.? Stinger is one I have had good success with.
Love the channel
It's really interesting to follow you work, thanks.
Maybe you can address some questions? Why metal? Wouldn't any composite materials be lighter and more durable? Metal surfaces - when cold - get moist. Don't you have rust issues on tools and machines in such workshops? Metal also absorbs heat - what about climate control in both summer and winter? What about cellphone and radio signals? You're building a faraday cage(?), right?
Having worked in one I can tell you that cell phone signals do still get through.
Excelente trabalho! You está de parabéns! Abraços!
Good, nice video ❤️👍
Eddie Haskell!!!❤️❤️❤️
Good job 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Love your vids. Good job y'all
looks good
New subscriber! Love your work and your energy!
If you were in my area, you'd be building my shop!
Eddie Haskell was the man
Mold with plastic. Built rite works as I have seen remodeling projects on an exterior wall, 25 years old, be dry with no damage inside or out.
Greg 👍👍👍👍👍
Eddy Haskell was the friend on Leave It To Beaver.
Ha! Nailed it!
He was Wally's friend though.
@@ericcorse lol I don't know??
Personally I would never use plastic vapor barrier again. Used one in a guest house I built. Moisture found it's way behind it and caused mold and rot. We just ripped it out and all the old insulation too. Fixing the rotten wood, will stain and odor block prime before reinsulated. Cause a ton of damage. Just think what happens if moisture get behind VB. I have found in my research since that for every nail hole sized penetration in a VB you can get 1 pint of water per year. It's then trapped. Seeing as those are steel buildings and very leaky, air, you may be ok. If you want it sealed 2 inches of closed cell spray foam on the outside will be the best then fill the rest with more or other insulation.
Totally can understand. Always a constant battle for what is not only the best... but also affordable and sensible for the client. I don’t have all the answers but am always willing to educate the client on well spent money vs needless money
Just here for the Leave it to Beaver discussion.
Me too
I'd like to see how you do your corners on your wall to ceiling trim. I have an idea of how I'm going to do it on my shop but I'm sure you do it the right way.
Once again an amazing job. I admire your attention to detail. Hard to find these days. Do you use a lighter gauge steel for the interior than the exterior?
The wood looks good wish you was in Ga I would get you to build me one
Eddie Haskel buzz killer on Leave it to Beaver.
A well groomed beard looks very professional. When it gets really scruffy, it makes one look like a wannabe extra from Duck Dynasty. I can't say I really like that look, but, of course, à chacun son gôut as les froggies say. So do what makes you happy. For my money, the well-groomed look is the clear winner.
Lol thanks brother appreciate it. I try to stay clean
Metal ceiling is fun until you have to cut in and install overhead HVAC as you go. Lol. I agree with you though, as long as you have clean runs to fasten - it's very satisfying
👍👍👍
Will the ceiling be insulated, Eddie Haskell??😜
haha yes
Didn't you listen to the video.
Michael Evinger - it’s an attempt to be humorous. Maybe you broke your arm, damaging Your Humerus 🦴
I can’t believe they don’t insulate the ceiling.... lol
I'm unclear. Will the ceiling be insulated? And what type of plywood did you use on the walls? Nice one again, bro...
I’m redoing my camper at the moment and it has no vapor barrier so I got the walls off and pulled the insulation out and it’s soaked and the metal outside is sweating a lot on the inside so I’ll be adding a barrier
💪❄️❄️💪🤙
thank you
I really enjoy your videos. They are very helpful! Thank you. One question, are the trusses installed 8' OC? I assumed that I would have to install 2x4 nailers 2' OC to perpendicular to the trusses to support the sheet metal. Thanks again!
I was wondering the same thing... doing a 30x40 very soon and was looking into this very thing
Love watching your videos. I am having a 57x72 built this spring here in southeast Nebraska. I am going to do a 20x32 room/mezzanine. Can you show how you guys attach the beam/ledger to the wall of the pole barn? Are you using structural lags like the GRK RSS? How many per column? Thanks!! Keep up the good work.
I will make the video
Thanks!!
Fairly new to your channel. Can you provide a rough cost per foot to build this building. Thanks
Good luck, he and others never discuss pricing, but for this type it is generally around 35 per square foot give or take 15
At last no more AHAB beard look ,cool now trimmed Kyle , great Team singing needs work though LOL great vide
Not sure how it works on a steel building, but the system on our house (from BuildingScience.com) has no vapor barrier on the inside. It has solid EPS on the outside with steel siding over that (rainscreen construction -- no water penetration from the outside), and bat insulation on the inside between the studs. The big difference in design is drywall inside vs. steel. I would be very curious to see what they say on this. I contacted them and sent them a link to this video. It will be interesting to hear what they have to say!
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like on putting up the ceiling panels, you are screwing off the leading end and nailing off the tail end, with the next panel overlapping to screw off both ends of each panel. Is that right? If so, I guess I just never noticed that detail before. Always learning something from watching you work. Thanks for sharing!
Yes sir that way we hide the nails
Looking at all that beautiful plywood makes me think what a shame it's going to be to have all the surface mounted conduit and outlets all over it.
Yeah it’s a catch 22
I'm one of the odd ones that prefers nice runs of conduit in a shop. Guess I like the industrial look, and I enjoy installing conduit.
Doesn't it defeat the purpose of the vapor barrier if you don't tape the seams?
The reason you get mold in insulation is do a lack of insulation where hot and cold can meet easily or a leaky through the siding or roof. The best insulation I see from remodeling projects is paper back insulation from the 50s. When the exterior walls could breath from using built rite or 1x6 boards. The problem is they aren't efficient. So now we choke off the flow of air. The only problem by doing that is if you have a hole it leaks A LOT of water. A 1" hole in the vapor barrier can transfer 30 qts of water. So by putting up a plastic and not sealing the seems along with having an open space behind the metal walls is a problem in cold climates. You may want to reconsider how you seal the vapor barrier. It must be 100% or nothing.
Of course, if you insulate walls then you insulate the ceiling, no question. :)
Looks good! I use the same AC ply from Menards for my shop projects, it is good stuff. What is the biggest problem with the Hitachi, Metabo HPT nailer you have?
just that the safety or on button has to be re pressed if it sits too long
Great videos! Quality work! Question...I'm contemplating using Menards material for my post frame ceiling. They have a Dura Panel with a lighter gauge of steel. 0128 thickness which I figure is 30 gauge. Do you think it will hold R30 blown in insulation on 8ft OC trusses?
Is metal ceiling a condensation issue during temperature swings if you don't condition space 24/7? I was hoping to use metal ceiling, but temp swings and humidity levels coupled with the fact I will not condition space all the time has me wondering?
Wonder how much a building like that run?
i have bought that exact plywood before and attempted to build cabinets from it, but of the 8 sheets i purchase, 2 of them came de-laminated. :(, so good luck with the imported AC plywood
Buy Canadian 😁
we need a Menard's where i live , the orange and the blue big box stores seems to only carry damaged , out of square , poorly glues reject plywood . even their oak , maple and birch veneer plywood comes unglued before you even finish your projects .
Menards is great
I see that you’re installing panels top down too. Would that make the overlap backwards in the case of high humidity running down the panels and then getting trapped, or does the overlap act as a stop?
I’d guess that the reveal is cleaner looking installed from the top down though.
With the 8 foot spacing between the trusses how to you get around in the attic? I am thinking of the insulation installers climbing from truss to truss.