Glad to see you two doing this in a wintery climate. A lot of the ones i see are in Texas or some other warm weather state. I'm in Michigan and want to build one and you're an inspiration
A warm garage starts with the floor. I know you can’t go back now but here is what I did 25yrs go when building my pole barn. I dug an extra 2” down before the floor was poured. Then put in 4” of stone, then 2” foam board on top of that, wire mesh above the foam board, then concrete. Absolutely no moisture has ever come up through the floor and never experienced that cold garage floor when laying on the floor under a car. It also didn’t take much to heat the 32 x 72 building at all in our cold northeast winter. Best advice my elderly neighbor gave me.
I just discovered you guys and after seeing your thumbnails I will be checking out some of your vehicle stuff. If you are finding that your roof insulation is not working as well as you hoped, that is because you do not have any radiant insulation. That bubble wrap that you were led to believe to be R12 is only giving you maybe an R2. It is a common misunderstanding and mistake because the people who are in the business of selling the radiant foil bubble wrap do not inform people that in order to get any radiant effect THERE MUST BE AN AIR SPACE IN FRONT THE FOIL SIDE. When you place something right up against the foil, you loose all the radiant properties.
I am about to build a skillion pavilion central U.P. this summer. And thought about putting cheap barn steel from the Amish on the roof. But insulation. That bubble wrap works great under cabin floor sheeting. I do a lot of foundation work for the Amish. Overlap and staple. Just like masonry walls or piers needing 18 inches above grade so it can dry out. Gotta have good ventilation.
Have to make sure you screw into the bottom cord of those trusses. I was thinking about screwing in 1/2” osb to bottom cord of trusses after they’re in layout. Then quickly screw the corrugated metal sheets to the OSB, more rigidity. But raises cost. That building should nice and warm. 👍 Good job guys.
Nice video guys! Looking forward to seeing some cars coming out of there now! And I somehow think....Taleah is waiting patiently (???) for HER car to get done! And 3 other girls are going to be in line too! Take care, be safe and God bless!
Celluslose is fine. We don't have a bug problem...the mice can mess with it but just keep critter control. My house is 30yrs old cellulose is a good value insulation. It's treated with boric acid...keeps bugs out and stops mold grow.
Better hope that bubble wrap is high quality. My builder said they have cut into buildings after about 5 years and the bubble part was dust. All that was left was the foil.
Condensation will drip down from metal roof . I used thermal building wrap with high temp glue then went over that with 1 inch insulation board including walls and heat 30*40 ft with wood stove open ceiling. However good work
Reflective or radiant barrier needs at least a 3/4" air gap to work properly. You just wasted most of its effectiveness by screwing metal directly to it.
Could they have put it on the other side of the framing, still pointing towards the ground but that would give it about 2 inches gap between the metal sheeting?
Chad, I'm gonna come up there and lock you in that sarcophagus if y'all don't get busy on the car builds. 🤣 For real though, I do appreciate seeing how the work space is being put together and I am certain there are folks who really appreciate the information y'all are providing about how to create their own garage work space.
I hate to rain on your parade but radiant barrier insulation needs an air gap between the insulation ( foil side) and what ever surface it's up against. Other wise it will not do it's job. Don't believe me, look it up yourself. That being said, I do like the way you insulated your walls and you are right about spray foam ( not exactly what it's all cracked up to be). Great video. Thanks
@@ControlThis if the foil touches the surface it becomes heat conductive not radiant. think about a piece of aluminum foil. hold it about a hot skillet and your had is cool on the other side (it reflects the radiant heat). if it comes into contact with the skillet it gets hot (conduction) heat travels in radiation, convection and induction
@@spartan150x Yeah I get that. I just assumed the reflective barrier was still doing its job reflecting even if it was absorbing some conduction from the ceiling sheets.
Looking to do my garage similar to what you all did. I got double bubble going on my roof and walls. Then like to do 2" foam board on walls with blow in cellulose in the ceiling as well. Very curious how does your garage heat during the winter months? I'm going to put a multifuel stove in mine to keep warm. Like to keep it around 65ish during the winter months. I live in southern Indiana.
5:03 Surfaces don't "hold onto the cold", cold is the absence of heat. Condensation happens when there's a temperature difference of at least 5 degrees C, where moisture in the air will condense on the colder surface.
What do you think about combining a radiant barrier and rigid foam boards for wall and roof insulation? The pole barn company offers radiant barrier for all the walls and ceiling and I'm thinking of installing the rigid foam board myself over the radiant barrier afterwards.
In a climate like that in the upper Midwest, with cold winters and hot summers, which way should the foils side of that wrap go? You show it in a cold climate pointed towards the living space, but when trying to keep it cool in the summer, how does the foil wrap perform?
you put it upside down, the silver to the top, but most of the time you put it under your roof so any moisture collected runs down and out, putting it on the flat will allow pooling of moisture
Blown in fiberglass is 100 times better to work with plus better R value but it does cost more and you can actually see while installing its not dusty.
I'm just an old guy who's been building since he was fifteen years old but what they're doing with this insulation is bad you're creating an atmosphere up in between your metal roof and the lower roof some lures were made to catch fish some lures were made to catch fisherman nowadays they sell people so much s*** they don't need
@brianh2324 I am a different old guy who builds postframe buildings for a living. To answer your question: yes. I have seen plenty of uninsulated buildings, and most of the condensation happens on the roof, so that is where your money and time is best spent. It would be better if they had put the radient and vapor barrier above the frame - directly against the metal. If you have already built it without insulation, like theirs, then ventilation in the attic and a thoroughly taped air seal is essential.
There is a difference between heat transfer and water transfer. When heat transfers through a surface it simple leaves the moisture behind. Condensation.
Looks air tight. Do you have built in ventilation or just open all the doors and windows when running engines, sweating, etc.? I like the idea of wrapping b4 metal panels installed, but would like ventilation in the building at large, perhaps only insulating, heating a smaller structure inside.
Guys thought about continuing the foam boards under the metal roof between the trusses? Open trusses could be nice for storing stuff like scrap wood. That ceiling looks like a chore.
I honestly think that metal roof will still sweat and if it does it will get that insulation you are going to blow in wet. Seeing you have wooden studs it could even mildew and rot in time. Let's say it only does it a little and you never see any indication of a leak, but it is leaking and gets sponged up in the insulation. Not good. But hey, what do I know? You actually are going to have the same problem it you ever get a leak in the roof with a loose screw or seals on the metal roof screws going bad. But then again, what do I know? I truly hope you don't have either problem that I suggested could go wrong, but I am going to have closed cell foam sprayed on my metal roof.
R Value is the rating given to any given material’s ability to slow down the transfer of heat. Depending on where it’s applied it will have a different R value. In our case it’s 12 when installing it in the ceiling.
@@G.A.N.G101 I realize that it is hard to hear. But they lied to you. They are quoting a system. Do you really believe that is R12? I used the same product as a vapor barrier but it does not offer any real insulation value. Please do your own research and correct this video before you have people copying and making the same mistake.
With a couple of decades in the insulation and building science business on my resume I just have to comment on some of your statements. The bubble wrap ‘insulation’ is a radiant barrier and requires an open space to reflect into. It does next to nothing to reduce conductive heat loss which is what you are dealing with when it is sandwiched between other materials and R-12 is a ridiculous marketing fantasy as others have pointed out. Other than that, you did a nice job here given that you didn’t want spray foam. Assuming that your attic is well ventilated even after the insulation is in place, it should work well for you.
Not R-12…not even close. There’s a lot of misinformation on this product some of which is marketing. Plus the fact that if the foil “radiant” surface is touching the metal roofing surface it’s no longer radiant. It’s Conduction. Reflectix is good stuff but the misinformation is getting out of control.
Hi Guys, great channel and information. I am in the starting phases of a workshop barn and have loved your videos. Would you mind sharing your pole barn metal source? I live just south of the Mackinaw bridge, and our local Amish do not carry pole barn metal.
Unfortunately I need the attic space for storage! so I think I’m doing spray foam then installing a fan too suck the air out of the attic space does that sound like a good idea?
In Colorado, they're about $4.38 a square foot, not cheap. But easier than doing drywall, & that won't span 4' trusses without additional framing, plus no finishing needed.
Noooo.... You all were doing so great up until the "Cellulose", I've sold insulation for YEARS and cellulose is so bad. Is is paper. Rats/mice/bugs love paper. It says it has pesticides, but the heat dissipates those rather quickly. When/if it gets wet, it does not want to dry. Fiberglass is just glass. It can dry afterwards, it's just glass and works great for what it needs to do. Love the vids though. EDIT: It also weighs more than fiberglass. Edit: It is also like dust and tends to find it's way out onto everything.
@@G.A.N.G101 It does look like you all do your homework. I'd just recommend taking 1 more look at the pros and cons of this choice. insulation is usually sitting on top of drywall. In your case it will be on that bubble wrap and your sheet metal. I'm not sure how much weight per ft that will be, but trusses are usually 24" on center as well. I'd hate to see your stuff sagging. I charge $1 a ft to vacume the insulation out when it gets ruined. It may be ok. I'm in Florida with lots of water issues. Those metal buildings tend to get a water leak eventually.
I agree, in this application I’d go with the fiberglass blown in. Definitely do some shopping around and see if there is a cheaper supplier. If not, make sure to have an attic access and check it often, if not even put some lights up there too! Best wishes, and can’t wait for the next video.
12-R it is not. Bubble-wrap marketing materials often tout ridiculously high R-values that have nothing to do with the thermal performance of the material; the exaggerated numbers are based on assembly R-values, not material R-values. Assembly R-values take credit for the R-value of building component layers that aren’t sold by bubble wrap manufacturers: things like layers of plywood, drywall, or air spaces located between the bubble wrap and an adjacent surface. That from the Green Building Association. Cold air above will settle down and chill your entire celing assembly. Cold air sinks.
3:43 putting metal sheeting directly over a radiant barrier completely negates the radiant barrier. do some research on improper radiant barrier installation.
Do you think 1" foam board with a reflective surface sealed to the metal walls and ceilings (taped everywhere to seal it...then using R-13 and R-30 (ceiling) would be okay for a. 12x24 metal shed building? Its in a pretty high humidity area. I'm just a girl and I can't find the best way to do it (short of closed cell spray foam) which I can't afford.
Very good insulation R less than 1, good stuff yes not for me any ways. I have already used that crap to try to insulate the garage side of a huge garage door, waste of money.
Glad to see you two doing this in a wintery climate. A lot of the ones i see are in Texas or some other warm weather state. I'm in Michigan and want to build one and you're an inspiration
A warm garage starts with the floor. I know you can’t go back now but here is what I did 25yrs go when building my pole barn. I dug an extra 2” down before the floor was poured. Then put in 4” of stone, then 2” foam board on top of that, wire mesh above the foam board, then concrete. Absolutely no moisture has ever come up through the floor and never experienced that cold garage floor when laying on the floor under a car. It also didn’t take much to heat the 32 x 72 building at all in our cold northeast winter. Best advice my elderly neighbor gave me.
So in theory you’d put the plastic 6mil I think above the gravel, then the insulation, then the wire mesh.
Could use tell us what size stone ?
@ #1 stone under the foam for drainage
I just discovered you guys and after seeing your thumbnails I will be checking out some of your vehicle stuff.
If you are finding that your roof insulation is not working as well as you hoped, that is because you do not have any radiant insulation. That bubble wrap that you were led to believe to be R12 is only giving you maybe an R2. It is a common misunderstanding and mistake because the people who are in the business of selling the radiant foil bubble wrap do not inform people that in order to get any radiant effect THERE MUST BE AN AIR SPACE IN FRONT THE FOIL SIDE. When you place something right up against the foil, you loose all the radiant properties.
How do you get such a gap? Do you add battens? Would that work?
It was really nice to see Joe treated so well this episode. Glad he survived his time in the hole.
😂
My uncle uses two layer of bubble insulation. He puts the first layer foil out and the second layer foil in and you get an amazing insulation. 😉👍
Always floil out to reflect external radiant heat.
Your uncle is a genius.
I was just trying to find out if this could be an option. Thanks for the info.
Excited to see your progress and sharing your costs. Enjoy the humor! Good luck bois! 👍👊💪
Thank you
I am about to build a skillion pavilion central U.P. this summer. And thought about putting cheap barn steel from the Amish on the roof. But insulation. That bubble wrap works great under cabin floor sheeting. I do a lot of foundation work for the Amish. Overlap and staple. Just like masonry walls or piers needing 18 inches above grade so it can dry out. Gotta have good ventilation.
More building videos these are great. Thank you
Have to make sure you screw into the bottom cord of those trusses. I was thinking about screwing in 1/2” osb to bottom cord of trusses after they’re in layout. Then quickly screw the corrugated metal sheets to the OSB, more rigidity. But raises cost. That building should nice and warm. 👍 Good job guys.
Nice video guys! Looking forward to seeing some cars coming out of there now! And I somehow think....Taleah is waiting patiently (???) for HER car to get done! And 3 other girls are going to be in line too! Take care, be safe and God bless!
We're working on a military truck soon. Too many projects with so little time
A great amount of good information. thanks. Please keep at your Wonderful projects. Thanks. Keep saving $$$$$
Thank you!
Good job men with the vapor barrier. Nobody wants a thunderstorm in their garage!😂 Todd from da U.P.
Thanks Todd!
Nice job guys !!!! Thanks for aii the information !!!!! 👍
Our pleasure!
@@G.A.N.G101 love other channel too ! 9252 life !!!!!!👍
Celluslose is fine. We don't have a bug problem...the mice can mess with it but just keep critter control. My house is 30yrs old cellulose is a good value insulation. It's treated with boric acid...keeps bugs out and stops mold grow.
Better hope that bubble wrap is high quality. My builder said they have cut into buildings after about 5 years and the bubble part was dust. All that was left was the foil.
Condensation will drip down from metal roof . I used thermal building wrap with high temp glue then went over that with 1 inch insulation board including walls and heat 30*40 ft with wood stove open ceiling. However good work
I was right in the middle of about to ask why you hung the insulation inside out, I'm glad I waited.
Looking forward to the great content.
Reflective or radiant barrier needs at least a 3/4" air gap to work properly. You just wasted most of its effectiveness by screwing metal directly to it.
Could they have put it on the other side of the framing, still pointing towards the ground but that would give it about 2 inches gap between the metal sheeting?
@@Thisappaintreal Yes, that would work.
@@leeaa01 I ended up doing that on a project of my own. Glad to know it was a good idea
OK so, in Florida I should put the reflector upward to keep the heat in the attic area to be vented outward with the ventilation ribs.......
Very informative! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Chad, I'm gonna come up there and lock you in that sarcophagus if y'all don't get busy on the car builds. 🤣
For real though, I do appreciate seeing how the work space is being put together and I am certain there are folks who really appreciate the information y'all are providing about how to create their own garage work space.
😂 well yuh know we gotta get the garage all pretty first!
@@G.A.N.G101 🤣🤣🤣
I hate to rain on your parade but radiant barrier insulation needs an air gap between the insulation ( foil side) and what ever surface it's up against. Other wise it will not do it's job. Don't believe me, look it up yourself. That being said, I do like the way you insulated your walls and you are right about spray foam ( not exactly what it's all cracked up to be). Great video. Thanks
You must use a 3/4" furring strip under the foil and then screw your sheet metal to that!
They faced the foil down. There’s an attic worth of air between the insulation and the roof. I don’t see the problem (but I’m not an expert).
@@ControlThis if the foil touches the surface it becomes heat conductive not radiant. think about a piece of aluminum foil. hold it about a hot skillet and your had is cool on the other side (it reflects the radiant heat). if it comes into contact with the skillet it gets hot (conduction) heat travels in radiation, convection and induction
@@spartan150x Yeah I get that. I just assumed the reflective barrier was still doing its job reflecting even if it was absorbing some conduction from the ceiling sheets.
Looking to do my garage similar to what you all did. I got double bubble going on my roof and walls. Then like to do 2" foam board on walls with blow in cellulose in the ceiling as well. Very curious how does your garage heat during the winter months? I'm going to put a multifuel stove in mine to keep warm. Like to keep it around 65ish during the winter months. I live in southern Indiana.
5:03 Surfaces don't "hold onto the cold", cold is the absence of heat. Condensation happens when there's a temperature difference of at least 5 degrees C, where moisture in the air will condense on the colder surface.
Looking forward tomore.❤
What do you think about combining a radiant barrier and rigid foam boards for wall and roof insulation? The pole barn company offers radiant barrier for all the walls and ceiling and I'm thinking of installing the rigid foam board myself over the radiant barrier afterwards.
In a climate like that in the upper Midwest, with cold winters and hot summers, which way should the foils side of that wrap go? You show it in a cold climate pointed towards the living space, but when trying to keep it cool in the summer, how does the foil wrap perform?
its looking great guys
Thank you!
I have always wanted one of those King Tut sarcophagus' where did you get that!?
is there an update or next in this "series" that shows the ceiling being insulated and sheet metal wall installation?
Great insulation info. is there anything you would recommend different. Or stick with what you guys did?
you put it upside down, the silver to the top, but most of the time you put it under your roof so any moisture collected runs down and out, putting it on the flat will allow pooling of moisture
Blown in fiberglass is 100 times better to work with plus better R value but it does cost more and you can actually see while installing its not dusty.
I'm just an old guy who's been building since he was fifteen years old but what they're doing with this insulation is bad you're creating an atmosphere up in between your metal roof and the lower roof some lures were made to catch fish some lures were made to catch fisherman nowadays they sell people so much s*** they don't need
@brianh2324 I am a different old guy who builds postframe buildings for a living. To answer your question: yes. I have seen plenty of uninsulated buildings, and most of the condensation happens on the roof, so that is where your money and time is best spent. It would be better if they had put the radient and vapor barrier above the frame - directly against the metal. If you have already built it without insulation, like theirs, then ventilation in the attic and a thoroughly taped air seal is essential.
There is a difference between heat transfer and water transfer. When heat transfers through a surface it simple leaves the moisture behind. Condensation.
That nifty 50 on that pole looks super familiar did that come from michigan?
Great video guys, who's insulation did you use?
Do you plug up the ends of corrugated metal ribs or leave them open? I have a metal roof on porch thst drips all winter.
Bubble foil kicks ass!!!!
It sure does. We're very impressed with it
Looks air tight. Do you have built in ventilation or just open all the doors and windows when running engines, sweating, etc.? I like the idea of wrapping b4 metal panels installed, but would like ventilation in the building at large, perhaps only insulating, heating a smaller structure inside.
What kind of temperature changes did you experience?
the only thing I have to say is you might want to put in some wood spacers, the radiant barrier needs an air gap. other than that it looks great guys
What is your opinion on using foam board on the ceiling of a metal building in Florida?
Guys thought about continuing the foam boards under the metal roof between the trusses? Open trusses could be nice for storing stuff like scrap wood. That ceiling looks like a chore.
What type of insulation and barrier would you recommend for a mobile home underbelly?
I didn't see it, what is the brand of bubble foil sheets that you used for the ceiling? Did you say 13 r value just for the sheet?
Thank you
Ted
15 for the 3” pink and the bubble foil varies depending on where it’s being applied
Great job. 🌸
Thank you
New subscriber here. I have a question, where did you get Tut? I have always wanted one. Is he for sale?
What about the condensation coming off the roof tin onto the roofs 2x4s?
Was there a listing for the insulation that I missed somewhere? I have a noisy kid so it’s entirely possible
I honestly think that metal roof will still sweat and if it does it will get that insulation you are going to blow in wet. Seeing you have wooden studs it could even mildew and rot in time. Let's say it only does it a little and you never see any indication of a leak, but it is leaking and gets sponged up in the insulation. Not good. But hey, what do I know? You actually are going to have the same problem it you ever get a leak in the roof with a loose screw or seals on the metal roof screws going bad. But then again, what do I know? I truly hope you don't have either problem that I suggested could go wrong, but I am going to have closed cell foam sprayed on my metal roof.
We’ll keep you updated.
@@G.A.N.G101thinking about using this in my 3bay carport turned barn, how is it going woth condensation plz?
Hey guys, just wondering how the bubble wrap has held up and if there have been any moisture issues?
Ever try putting foam board on the studs then metal over the board.
Why couldn't it be done?
I'm building a metal building...I am thinking of installing 10m on the outside before I sheet the walls and roof
Good job , thanks for sharing , God bless !
Thanks for watching! We appreciate it!
What brand is it that you are using and where did you buy it? I don't see it a Lowes.
What do you plan to do to prevent condensation under the roof metal and trusses/purlins?
I believe it's R 1.2 not R 12 Two inchs of styrofoam rigid insulation is R 10
R Value is the rating given to any given material’s ability to slow down the transfer of heat. Depending on where it’s applied it will have a different R value. In our case it’s 12 when installing it in the ceiling.
@@G.A.N.G101 I realize that it is hard to hear. But they lied to you. They are quoting a system. Do you really believe that is R12? I used the same product as a vapor barrier but it does not offer any real insulation value. Please do your own research and correct this video before you have people copying and making the same mistake.
With a couple of decades in the insulation and building science business on my resume I just have to comment on some of your statements. The bubble wrap ‘insulation’ is a radiant barrier and requires an open space to reflect into. It does next to nothing to reduce conductive heat loss which is what you are dealing with when it is sandwiched between other materials and R-12 is a ridiculous marketing fantasy as others have pointed out. Other than that, you did a nice job here given that you didn’t want spray foam. Assuming that your attic is well ventilated even after the insulation is in place, it should work well for you.
Not R-12…not even close. There’s a lot of misinformation on this product some of which is marketing. Plus the fact that if the foil “radiant” surface is touching the metal roofing surface it’s no longer radiant. It’s Conduction.
Reflectix is good stuff but the misinformation is getting out of control.
@@cabinmanl
Could i use the same foam board on my ceiling instead of the bubble foil?
Holy crap, between all the insulation and then it being very well sealed, you should be able to heat that space with what, two maybe three candles?
😂
Were did yall buy this at
Hi Guys, great channel and information. I am in the starting phases of a workshop barn and have loved your videos. Would you mind sharing your pole barn metal source? I live just south of the Mackinaw bridge, and our local Amish do not carry pole barn metal.
The Metal shop up here is in Engadine. I believe it’s called Mackinac Metal Sales.
I am looking at insulating a pole barn and want to keep the space between rafters and roof. How could I insulate directly against the ceiling?
You'd have to have wood between the rafters to screw this up to
@@G.A.N.G101 right. So just screwing the insulation to the purlins then? Leaving the 1 3/4 width of the 2x4 as an air gap?
I have been in these attics a couple of years later and all the insulation was blown to one side from the wind
what brand vaper barrier did you use? or where can u get it.
Can’t remember right off hand
That R-12 is with the air gap. Check tech specs
Unfortunately I need the attic space for storage! so I think I’m doing spray foam then installing a fan too suck the air out of the attic space does that sound like a good idea?
Yes that would be a good idea when you’re not heating your shop.
How was the building built please.
It would be great to know how the garage was built from scratch, yes. The footing, slab and frame, yes. Thank you please.
What about the moisture between the steel and that barrier?
Would it make sense to double the bubble insulation with top layer shiny side up and bottom layer, shiny side down?
Can't go wrong with more insulation
The shiny side is supposed to always face towards open air - you never let it contact a wall or ceiling. Unfortunately, these guys did it wrong.
You sound like Red from the Red Green show! 😁
Where did you get that bubble wrap insulation?
From some local Amish. But big box stores sell it as well
The refective insulation won't do anything because of the way it was installed. Needs an air gap between the foil face and sheeting to work.
But the vapor barrier will work!
Who is the manufacturer of the mirrored bubble foil insulation?
Can’t remember right off hand but Google has a good selection
What about the water dripping from the roof??
Contractor I'm like 100 miles west of DC I work all around d.c.
What is the cost of those metal sheets? I'm thinking to do the same for my shop.
In Colorado, they're about $4.38 a square foot, not cheap. But easier than doing drywall, & that won't span 4' trusses without additional framing, plus no finishing needed.
Not sure right off hand. We purchased the metal from our local Amish which is much cheaper than the big box stores.
What is that foil Amish radiant barrier stuff called in real life?
Pretty sire that should have been put on before the metal roof. I feel like the moisture will rot all your woof above that level
I actually am interested in what the floor is.
Me too. I’m waiting for the rest of the videos. What about the floor????
Noooo.... You all were doing so great up until the "Cellulose", I've sold insulation for YEARS and cellulose is so bad. Is is paper. Rats/mice/bugs love paper. It says it has pesticides, but the heat dissipates those rather quickly. When/if it gets wet, it does not want to dry. Fiberglass is just glass. It can dry afterwards, it's just glass and works great for what it needs to do. Love the vids though. EDIT: It also weighs more than fiberglass. Edit: It is also like dust and tends to find it's way out onto everything.
We looked into the fiberglass blow in and it was 3 times the price and we just couldn't justify it.
@@G.A.N.G101 It does look like you all do your homework. I'd just recommend taking 1 more look at the pros and cons of this choice. insulation is usually sitting on top of drywall. In your case it will be on that bubble wrap and your sheet metal. I'm not sure how much weight per ft that will be, but trusses are usually 24" on center as well. I'd hate to see your stuff sagging. I charge $1 a ft to vacume the insulation out when it gets ruined. It may be ok. I'm in Florida with lots of water issues. Those metal buildings tend to get a water leak eventually.
I agree, in this application I’d go with the fiberglass blown in. Definitely do some shopping around and see if there is a cheaper supplier. If not, make sure to have an attic access and check it often, if not even put some lights up there too! Best wishes, and can’t wait for the next video.
I don’t know how that bubble foil can be 12 r?
It's what it said on the package but I think it definitely depends on application
It's really, really, really not.
The insulation value of the foil is nearly zero the way it was installed here. :(
you guys sure have fun and issues lol hugssssss
You're not wrong about that 😆
What about air space in the walls so the insulation board isn't touching the metal
The 3” foam board from Owens Corner is a vapor barrier as well and having it against the metal on the inside is fine as it’s not an exterior wall.
@@G.A.N.G101 So the air space is only needed at the exterior side. Thank you for the reply
Well what’s the name on the bubble foil doods who makes it? Help a brother out
There’s a few different companies that make this. Do a Google search for some in your area. We purchased ours from our local amish
r12 for that!!? normally that bubble stuff is R3 ... what's the brand LOL!?
YOU ALWAYS SNAP A LINE FOR THE FIRST ROW....
im getting ready to do my ceiling 1,500sq and im not looking forward to it
Did you guys leave me hanging? where are the rest of the videos on the garage??
They will never do another because they got called out for F'n it up..
12-R it is not. Bubble-wrap marketing materials often tout ridiculously high R-values that have nothing to do with the thermal performance of the material; the exaggerated numbers are based on assembly R-values, not material R-values. Assembly R-values take credit for the R-value of building component layers that aren’t sold by bubble wrap manufacturers: things like layers of plywood, drywall, or air spaces located between the bubble wrap and an adjacent surface. That from the Green Building Association. Cold air above will settle down and chill your entire celing assembly. Cold air sinks.
3:43 putting metal sheeting directly over a radiant barrier completely negates the radiant barrier. do some research on improper radiant barrier installation.
Why Did You Not Use Bubble Wrap Under Your Foam on Your Walls
Tin isn't up yet. We're probably going to do that
Do you think 1" foam board with a reflective surface sealed to the metal walls and ceilings (taped everywhere to seal it...then using R-13 and R-30 (ceiling) would be okay for a. 12x24 metal shed building? Its in a pretty high humidity area. I'm just a girl and I can't find the best way to do it (short of closed cell spray foam) which I can't afford.
Why does condensation occur? Not because hot meets cold. It’s because cold meets humidity. Hot and cold dry air doesn’t matter.
I have a 68 Eldorado chop top, sat foa while, has rust, selling cheap
Where is the floor and wall video????
The greatest ideas always come after a job is done unfortunately. Never in the middle. 😅
Let Joe have a microphone, tooooo!
He’s got one. He’s just got that soft girly voice
@@G.A.N.G101 😳
Very good insulation R less than 1, good stuff yes not for me any ways. I have already used that crap to try to insulate the garage side of a huge garage door, waste of money.