How to Re-Gear a Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon Dana 44
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- This video shows you how to re-gear a Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon.
Link to video demonstrating how to use special tools:
• How to use a Dial Indi...
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Last updated: May 11, 2023
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This is likely one of, if not the best walk-through videos on TH-cam. This is the best video I've seen yet! Thank you, you have made this repair seem doable. thank you. the camera angles on the pinion races, the tips and info on connectors and locker tricks. this video rocked.
Thank you for taking so much time and doing such a great job explaining every step in a very simple way. Great Job!!
Really appreciate all the detail and quality video and audio 👍
I remember the absolute worst part of doing this was repeatedly getting the carrier in and out with proper preload while making adjustments. If I have to do this again, I will probably get a case spreader to make it a little bit easier. Thanks again Mike, my gears are still running strong with no issues thanks to my following the tips, tricks and guidance from your how-to videos.
You forgot sore knuckles!!
@@TheBFHGarage I was also doing this on the ground which was a friendly reminder by my back that I am getting old.
@@kpfalconi been there done that. I'll pull the axle and put it on a bench before I ever do it on the ground again! That's exactly why I bought my lift!
@@TheBFHGarage Trying to get the boss (aka wife) to approve the purchase of a lift. Hahaha
Great video Mike. You and your videos are responsible for the success of my first regear. I'm forever thankful... Remember the offer stands for that Costarican getaway!
Awesome! I'm already talking to my wife about booking a trip there!
@@TheBFHGarage make it happen! You won't regret it
@@mefistofer I will reach out to you for info soon!
Bro, I just found 4 broken teeth on my rear pinion..Come help me redo my gear.set. Excellent video
Excellent guide and tips. Although i don't feel confident to do this alone considering them precision required, it's important i understand the steps involved. Now i need to make a friend who has experience with doing this so i can get on hand experience with a pro.
Mike, I'm back, on the right video this time...for the life of me, what did you do to hold the pinion in place to check backlash? You said rear bearings, but that doesn't hold it all the way back. Did you install the drive shaft connector with your set up bolt? I have the set up race and .048 shims ready to go. I feel I'm over thinking this.
If the pinion moves when you're trying to check the backlash, then you can just hold the flange with your hand.
So nothing needs to be on the back of the pinion to put in the carrier to check backlash? How did you drive the pinion to run a pattern?
@@maxellis950 nope. Checking backlash is as easy as clicking the carrier back and forth. To run the pattern, I use a drill with a socket adapter. Easy.
Thank you, I knew I was over thinking it
@TheBFHGarage Mike, still having issues. Any other way to contact you to discuss it?
Hi Mike, I'm new to your channel. Glad the algorithm showed me your stuff. I have enjoyed the 4 wheeling videos, but my main interest has been the tutorials. Great stuff. I have a question for you: would you upgrade the front axle of a 2010 JK to a front Dana 44, or add the locker, and new ring/pinion to the original Dana 30? I'm leaning to the upgrade. I'd keep the 44 in the rear. I'm re-gearing as the first priority, and adding the lockers as the second priority.
Upgrading the axle only nets you a slightly bigger ring gear. The weak point is still the ball joints which are the same for the Dana 30 and 44. I would personally keep the dana 30. If you are going to pay for a re-gear, do the locker at the same time as it is easiest to do it at the same time. If you do them separately it will cost you twice as much. If you are only going to install one locker, make it the rear. Good luck!
I was poking around the web to see if the e-locker carrier would accept the gears I wanted to install as many other carriers have a range of gears they'll accept and some require a different carrier. I saw your video and decided I'd watch it and I must say it's one of the best install videos I've ever seen. Clear, concise and comprehensive explanations, very nice camera angles and lots of helpful tips and tricks. I've been a mechanic for 40 years and couldn't have explained the installation any better. Great job and you earned a sub and a like, keep up the good work!
Thank you for the kind words!
Another excellent tutorial. Thanks.
Another great vid, thank you!
Awesome tutorial my friend. My son and I just regeared to 4.88 and followed you an lead here. The Axles didn’t come out so easy but those who endeavor persevere. Many thanks for your guidance.
Glad the video helped you out!
Can you do a re- gearing on an XJ Chrysler 8.25 with arb lockers full install video
If I ever get someone who needs one done I probably will.
Excellent tutorial. I've done a number of gear changes in my past for hotrods and will soon install 5.13s in my JKURHR and needed a guide to brush up on what is needed for this job and this video is fantastic. I feel much better prepared after watching it a couple times and taking notes. Surprised you didn't use an air hammer on the pinion. I no longer have a compressor but wonder if a SDS point bit on a cordless hammer drill could do the job also. Is pulling the axle really a better approach vs on the ground?
Setting gears on the ground absolutely sucks in my opinion. If you're going to do it that way, just be prepared for a sore body and lots of frustration! I have used an air hammer on occasion and they do work quite well. Good luck with your job!
The bearings in my front 44 are making noise so im going to replace them. I know there is a seal for the input yolk but are there seals in the shaft tubes? Trying to order everything at one time.
@@chrisw46360 yes, right at the diff housing.
I just regeared my jk rubicon. now my locker won't unlock. Any suggestions??
First thing I would check is that the plunger is in the right spot. Very common mistake.
Thank you very much for making these videos. They've helped me do my own work on my jeep, saving me thousands of dollars. Your help is invaluable!
Hey, I have a 2012 jeep JKUR it has 373’s in it I just purchased for 488 someone told me I had to get Gear’s that were fat or thicker than normal gears. Is that correct?
I wish you were my neighbor
Your videos gave me the confidence to regear my own jeep. I’m a shade tree only when I have to mechanic so it was daunting by thankfully I found these videos. Very doable task if you take your time and have the right tools
Where did you get that clamshell puller?
I traded for it. The guy bought it on eBay. You can find pullers on Amazon
Great video. He discusses all the important concepts along the way.
Really nice how-to video, Thanks a lot for taking the time to make it for us all. I am about to start on my JKU.
Absolutely the best info available for this job. Thank you!
I have a 2007 wrangler non rubicon is it the same process? Is it basically the same for the front when you have a Dana 30?
Same process, just no locker. Makes it easier for you actually.
@@TheBFHGarage have you ever used a Yukon Dura grip? Not sure what my Jeep has in the back I just bought it. I don’t want to go through all this and have only 1 wheel spinning. It will be driven mostly on the road with some trails. No Rock crawling or mudding. Will be going g in the sand at Silver Lake Michigan.
@@kirtcorkins1682 never have and couldn't tell you anything about them 🤷
Excellent tutorial! Best I’ve seen on 44 re gearing. 🤙
Awesome video. Includes all the needed steps to get it done with confidence.
New to your channel and I will say you earned a damn worthy follow. Hands down best video I’ve seen for a how to! I’m def gonna give my 2012 a try! Kudos my friend!
Thank you for the kind words!
Hey! I just torqued my pinion nut, I’m reading a rotation inch pound of 25-26. On my rear Jeep jk Dana 44. Yukon recommends 20-30, ahold I be good to go or is it too tight?
If you're running Yukon gears then go by their recommendation👍
I have a 17 rubicon. Running into the issue of locker not disengaging. Locks fine. Have the cover off and have voltage when engaged. Ring slides over and locks great. Go to unlock and I can manually push the ring over. Very easily at that. Seems as if have good pressure pushing it to unlock but won't without my help . Don't visually see anything broke. Any ideas
Sounds like a faulty actuator, but not 100% sure
Is it difficult to torque the ring bolts? Could you just get them tight and once everything is final and it's in the housing remove and apply thread locker/ torque one at a time?
It can be. It helps if you have a second set of hands or you can put it in your press lightly to hold it. Do that before bearings. If not, then yes, I have seen people install it and then tighten the bolts.
Another great video. So much to go wrong and cause trouble down the line .. setting gears is not trivial by any means!
Between JK vs TJ .. what do you think is better in the JKs? Do you foresee moving to that platform in the future?
Every generation of CJ's/Wranglers keeps getting better and better. It comes down to a personal preference and how you set it up. I would take a well set up CJ over a poorly set up JK. I was considering going to JK and build it up but I just have so much fun with my TJ.
How much does it cost to re-gear 2015 rubicon. Total parts and labor. It has 410 and I would like to go 488. By the way absolutely best video on TH-cam by far of a gear change great job. 👏🏼 👍🏼😊
@@dannycardin8966 depends on what shop you go to. Prices vary GREATLY. It also depends on the parts you buy. A whole lot goes into costs.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you for your reply. Can you tell me how much you would charge if you were doing the job?
@@dannycardin8966 I don't post pricing.
Ok thanks. Can you tell me some place you would trust in North West Indiana. There’s really no 4 wheel drive shops around here.
@dannycardin8966 I'm in Colorado.... No knowledge of Indiana shops
So satisfying when the pinion comes flying out @ 16:56. This is one of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Keep it up BFH!
Lol .. Frustrating day right there lol
This video is awesome,Thank You
When you install the pinion for the first time with the old shims during setup, and you need to put the tail bearing on, do you tighten that down at all ?
Yes. Just until you get some drag
With or without a crush sleeve? (Yukon kit included 2 and shims for I’m guessing the tail bearing) then if you get pressure will you have to take a dead blow and hammer the pinion back out? I am a machinist and went and ahead and bought another bearing and dusted the inside race of that to a slip fit with no shake, so that I can easily remove and add more shims for setup.. seemed like a good idea
@@brading84 don't install a crush sleeve until final assembly. No need to make the tail bearing a slip fit. Just take a punch and you can tap it back out.
@@TheBFHGarage got it. Referenced one of your other videos after I posted that lol. I meant the main pinion bearing that I dusted, not the tail. Thanks for your help and videos, and for responding pretty quick!
What do you do with the plunger to keep from having to use that little piece with the wire on it every time you install the carrier during mock up?
You can put a small piece of wood or other item (without the wire) to space it until you're ready for final assembly. On the high pinion front you have to remove the plunger. Once you are ready for final, reinstall the plunger and then space it like before.
Nicely done
Since you have the clamshell puller why not use shims that go under the bearings? Makes it a ton easier to remove and install without risk of damaging or losing a shim.
That is always an option depending if your master install kit came with those smaller shims. Most come with shims that go outside the bearings.
@@TheBFHGarage Good point. I became a fan of the under bearing method after a .010's outer shim nearly sliced the tip of my thumb off.
@@Tylerknoxville3 Some carriers/lockers require shims to go to the outside. ARB has some that go outside, and then some in the seal housing between the seal housing and the bearing. It all depends.
One more quick question, how many ft. Pounds does it take to crush the crush sleeve? I’m kind of confused how you use inch pounds to check it but need a ft pound torque wrench to check it.
It can sometimes take an incredible amount of force to START the crush sleeve... I've read as much as 600 ft/lbs.
When the crush sleeve starts to crush, it allows the bearing and race to come closer together causing interference/friction that is measured in in/lbs.
So, starting it and crushing it takes ft/lbs. Measuring the resistance once the bearing and race comes together is measured in in/lbs.
@@TheBFHGarage so how will I know once the crush bearing is crushed and I need to start measuring the Inch pounds?
@@AustinH7 You'll notice when you first put everything together, but before you crush the sleeve, the pinion will rotate with ZERO resistance. When you start to crush the sleeve, the rotating resistance will INCREASE. When it starts to increase, you start checking preload with your in/lbs torque wrench.
I can PROMISE you that it is super easy to over crush the sleeve which would require starting fresh with a new crush sleeve. I always have extra crush sleeves on hand because of this. It's a really fine line of getting the crush sleeve to start without over crushing it. Sometimes an 1/8 of a turn is all it takes to screw it up, so take your time and measure OFTEN. If you are close, as will be indicated by increased resistance, make very MINOR increases as the preload will increase quickly.
If you over crush the sleeve, you must start with a new one. You cannot loosen it back to the correct preload.
Will the backlash change when torqued done
Sorry down not done.
@@jamesdavis8952 it shouldn't. If it changes within 1 thou or so I wouldn't worry. If it's changing a lot, then you don't have the proper pre-load.
Would I need to add preload?
Mine went from .006 to gone.
@@jamesdavis8952 your question isn't very clear. What problem are you experiencing?
Hello, I had a quick question about carrier preload. So I got my backlash set to 8, I am using the factory shims on either side with an extra smallest possible shim on the right side that came with the Yukon kit. It’s not terribly easy to get it in, it’s mainly the shims getting jammed while trying to slide it in, the shims need to be tapped in and the carrier itself needs to only be tapped in very slightly to seat in. Does it sound like I have enough preload? I tried to add more shims for preload but have been unsuccessful and just end up bending them. Should I try to add more shims for preload or should I leave it alone?
Put the shim between the race and the OEM master shim. If it doesn't take much to get the carrier in then I doubt you have enough preload. Should take 6-8 whacks with a deadblow hammer.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks for the response! If you could ballpark how much extra preload shim it usually takes to get a good preload, I just don’t want to unnecessarily try to stuff preload shims on that are way too big. Because currently it’s already difficult to get the shims in place that I used to find the backlash. It’s a Jeep JK by the way.
@@AustinH7 Doesn't matter that it's a JK, an axle is an axle for the most part. There is no magic number or ballpark per se because you still have to keep backlash in spec. The carrier shouldn't drop right in. If you have shims that create just a little friction when you install the carrier, then you're close. If you can't get the carrier to start dropping in, then you have too many shims. The magic number is somewhere in between there and is usually only a few thousandths difference. I wish I could explain it better but that is pretty much it. You should not be able to push it all the way in by hand. Get the most preload you can and still get it inserted.
@@TheBFHGarage will do. I appreciate you commenting back!
OK...I followed every step and everything went well, up until I went to do the final install of the carrier, right after pressing on the bearings (with the shims). During mock-up everything was fine. Carrier preload & backlash were perfect. Note, I used "setup bearings". After pressing on the new bearings, my preload is loose. I'm now attempting to add equal size shims behind both races. Problem is, they are so thin that they are buckeling as I direct the carrier inward. Was there supposed to be a standard thick outer shim behind the races before I did my mock-up and shimmed behind the bearing? If so, F-me! What do I do now? I think the problem came in between the differences in the setup bearings and the permanent ones. But if that's the case, why even have "setup bearings"? I bought them through Yukon. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Were you using a stock carrier or did you add a locker? I don't put shims between the bearings and carrier. I put them between the race and the housing with the thickest of those shims to the outside. Were the setup bearings the same brand as final bearings? I try to stay away from Yukon as their quality has suffered substantially in my opinion.
@@TheBFHGarage 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport. Dana 44-R / 30-F Had 3.56. Purchased YGK-008 4.88 kit. Also purchased new rear carrier (YC D706025). Yukon recommended the setup bearings (YT SB-D44). I was advised that this would make the shimming process easier to shim between bearing & carrier. I'm learning otherwise. I know "you" shim behind the races (as I prolly should have too). But, what's done, is done. I see my only current option (other than tearing it all back down to square one) is to make up the difference by now shimming behind the race. But this is starting to seem somewhat impossible. Everything I know about this, I learned mostly from you. You have my highest respect. I've been studying through your videos (mostly) for over 6 months. I've never regeared before. So if you're telling me that I will currently never get thin shims behind those races to make up the difference, then I'm back to square one, am I correct? Thanks in advance! Oh...btw, no lockers whatsoever.
@@ninsar5765 confirming that your existing axle had NO master shims outside the carrier races? If it did, the thinner shims would go between those master shims and the races. If it didn't have them, then you may be back to square one having to pull the bearings off. On another note, the difference probably came from pressing the bearings on. A press will put them on tighter than you can manage by hand when installing the carrier.
@@TheBFHGarage First off, thank you so much for allowing me to intrude upon your very busy day. Secondly, I greatly appreciate your input & advice on this issue. It's definately been a learning experience and is helping to prepare me for the regearing of the Dana 30-F (I know, slightly different setup/process, especially with the crush-sleeve). Now, in response, there were no master shims. And out of all the research I've done, I don't recall anything anywhere ever being said when it came to the difference or how much of a diffrence I would experience once the bearings were "pressed" on. So I am now assuming that I have to get a clamshell bearing puller and then decide whether to try adding to each side of the carrier to obtain a comfortable preload (again) or switch out altogether and go with shimming behind the race. Which would you recommend? In either case, I'm wondering if I'm going to loose my current meshing pattern? My pinion is already set, preloaded and torqued. And I had a beautiful mesh-pattern and a very comfortable preload. What's your opinion on that? Hopefully I won't be intruding upon you after this but again, thank you!
@@ninsar5765 if you already have your depth established and everything is installed, all you have to do is get the backlash in spec and run a pattern to ensure it's still acceptable. That number might change just a little fun what you had originally, but if it's in spec then you should be good to go. Clamshell pullers are around $100 now so that might be a good option. The nice thing about those is that once it's set, you don't have to remove the bearings anymore.
If you decide to go with new bearings, then you can adjust as needed outside the race.
For setting up pinion, can you use the old race (turned down) so that it will slip fit in if you can’t get a duplicate of the timken you’re putting in? Thanks for your videos been a big help for me!
You can, but I don't recommend it. There is usually too much wear and it will throw it off considerably when you put the new one in.
Okay so I’d have to shim the pinion bearing method, which method do prefer, I’ve seen you shim the pinion and shim the race
@@brading84 either one works just fine.