Looking forward to this, wanting to learn to regear but there aren’t any really good videos, they all cut corners and skip parts beginners need to see.
I did my Mustang GT years ago and sold a bunch of tools and now since the Dana 35 in my ZJ has 3 teeth missing from the ring gear, it's time for a refresher course, thanks for the info much appreciated.
Don't waste any time or money on a Dana 35, swap to a better axle. A Ford 8.8 out of a 96-01 Explorer works great or if you don't want to weld brackets on, a Dana 44a out of a V8 ZJ will bolt right in.
I picked up a ebay knock off of the Yukon bearing puller which was more than a hundred (at that time I think it was $200) but was definitely worth it if you can afford them or do enough of them. The first time I did my original stock axles I used a bearing clamshell puller and it was a nightmare as it couldn't get under the bearing. It was a godsend but I budgeted for it and I had the money to burn.
Thank you for sharing. I am about to regear my rig from 4:56 to 5:26 to run 37s. I will probably run the 37s on 4:56 until I get all tools that is needed.
I’m not doing a regear yet, but I’m going to change my 8.25 open diff to an Eaton Trutrac worm gear limited slip, so will need to do the backlash adjustment & transfer the ring gear over. So these videos are very helpful- thank you.
I had my front dana 30 and rear 8.25 geared down to 4.56 by a local shop and he put in a eaton e locker up front but I am wanting to do a locker in the rear also. Eaton doesn't make a e locker for the 8.25 chrysler so I am thinking about committing to a arb, I really like how my e locker allows me to drive around town with open just like stock until I flip the switch. This video gives me a lot of good confidence to drop the money on a air locker and dive in.
can you make video showing what to check when getting junkyard axle ? like how to know if its good etc... i want to do d35 to 8.25 swap on my stock 91 xj
Hey Cherokee Ronnie, I love your channel and your content. It's very informative, streight to the point, simple, and budget friendly proving that an at home diy job is totally doable. Anyway I am in quite a bind with my 1992 Jeep cherokee. I recently installed a rebuilt engine out of a 97. The engine has been great but my crank position sensor has failed. I have tried over 20 brands including an oem mopar sensor out of a 96+ with a retro fit pigtail. All sensors won't allow the Jeep to start. Most are producing spark but won't fire up the Jeep, and if they do it dies as soon as it goes into closed loop. Voltage and signal wires verified to be good and same with cam position sensor outputs. Have you ever ran into this before? And is there a specific aftermarket brand that seems to work for you? Any suggestions would be very greatly appreciated! I suspect I may need a new ECU. Thanks, keep up the great work!
Most shops now days are incompetent. They don’t pay enough to keep good mechanics so you get trainees working on your rearend. I did my first ever ring n pinion 3 years ago. Ford 8.8. Getting ready to do a 8.25 in my 4x2 XJ. It’s heavily time consuming but taking the time to get the pattern right is crucial. Do it yourself but allow 3 days. Go slow you’ll be proud of yourself.
Really looking forward to the series. Will you cover crush sleeves? That was confusing me about taking the pinion in and out, because I thought the crush sleeve was a one time use. Thanks again.
Ok I’ve binged all of your re-gear videos and love your content. I have an 89 YJ with the 4.2l motor, 5 spd manual, Dana 35/30 axles, and just put 33x12.5s on it. It has the factory 3.07 gears now. I’ve used the calculator I’ve seen in other videos but not convinced I don’t need to go higher. Formula is saying 3.73 (3.61 rounded up). But I’ve seen folks say go 4.11 or even 4.55. It’s gonna see most of its time on the road but I’d like it to run right off as well. I’d would love your input.
@@cherokeeronnie well, got this just over 12 hours too late. Ordered the 4.11 kit yesterday! Will it be that bad? Not gonna go highway much but do want to be able to.
Good so far. I did the front end shortly after the rear and still breaking everything in. Have not had it above 60 much seems ok so far, I’ll let ya know. Thanks for checking.
Quick question... I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with 4x4 auto and the 4.0 engine. My electric cooling fan just went out. It's cooler weather now. How long can I operate without this fan????
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Moving blanket background for the win
Thanks for showing us this. Super helpful and saved me from getting ripped off by the “pro shops”
Thanks. Shops around here are 2500 and up. This was really helpful and looking forward to doing mine soon.
Looking forward to this, wanting to learn to regear but there aren’t any really good videos, they all cut corners and skip parts beginners need to see.
Excellent as always Ronnie! Can't wait to see the re-gear video!
I did my Mustang GT years ago and sold a bunch of tools and now since the Dana 35 in my ZJ has 3 teeth missing from the ring gear, it's time for a refresher course, thanks for the info much appreciated.
Don't waste any time or money on a Dana 35, swap to a better axle. A Ford 8.8 out of a 96-01 Explorer works great or if you don't want to weld brackets on, a Dana 44a out of a V8 ZJ will bolt right in.
I picked up a ebay knock off of the Yukon bearing puller which was more than a hundred (at that time I think it was $200) but was definitely worth it if you can afford them or do enough of them. The first time I did my original stock axles I used a bearing clamshell puller and it was a nightmare as it couldn't get under the bearing. It was a godsend but I budgeted for it and I had the money to burn.
Ive been calling around and have been getting $3500-3700 quotes to regear. So thanks for thr list of the tools 🤙
Thank you for sharing. I am about to regear my rig from 4:56 to 5:26 to run 37s. I will probably run the 37s on 4:56 until I get all tools that is needed.
I’m not doing a regear yet, but I’m going to change my 8.25 open diff to an Eaton Trutrac worm gear limited slip, so will need to do the backlash adjustment & transfer the ring gear over. So these videos are very helpful- thank you.
Super excited to check this out want to do it myself for some time
Very well done, thanks!
Any particular reason why I should buy a beam torque wrench if I have a click? Are they more accurate? Just cheaper?
U need the beam to check the rolling tension on the pinion gear
I had my front dana 30 and rear 8.25 geared down to 4.56 by a local shop and he put in a eaton e locker up front but I am wanting to do a locker in the rear also. Eaton doesn't make a e locker for the 8.25 chrysler so I am thinking about committing to a arb, I really like how my e locker allows me to drive around town with open just like stock until I flip the switch.
This video gives me a lot of good confidence to drop the money on a air locker and dive in.
I would go with a Detroit locker or just throw a lunchbox locker like a Spartan or Aussie in it.
can you make video showing what to check when getting junkyard axle ? like how to know if its good etc... i want to do d35 to 8.25 swap on my stock 91 xj
Thanks bro!!
Hey Cherokee Ronnie, I love your channel and your content. It's very informative, streight to the point, simple, and budget friendly proving that an at home diy job is totally doable. Anyway I am in quite a bind with my 1992 Jeep cherokee. I recently installed a rebuilt engine out of a 97. The engine has been great but my crank position sensor has failed. I have tried over 20 brands including an oem mopar sensor out of a 96+ with a retro fit pigtail. All sensors won't allow the Jeep to start. Most are producing spark but won't fire up the Jeep, and if they do it dies as soon as it goes into closed loop. Voltage and signal wires verified to be good and same with cam position sensor outputs. Have you ever ran into this before? And is there a specific aftermarket brand that seems to work for you? Any suggestions would be very greatly appreciated! I suspect I may need a new ECU. Thanks, keep up the great work!
Have you tested wires from the connector to the ecu and to ground and power? Maybe the connector is bad
Most shops now days are incompetent. They don’t pay enough to keep good mechanics so you get trainees working on your rearend. I did my first ever ring n pinion 3 years ago. Ford 8.8. Getting ready to do a 8.25 in my 4x2 XJ. It’s heavily time consuming but taking the time to get the pattern right is crucial. Do it yourself but allow 3 days. Go slow you’ll be proud of yourself.
Cheers .
Really looking forward to the series. Will you cover crush sleeves? That was confusing me about taking the pinion in and out, because I thought the crush sleeve was a one time use. Thanks again.
Yeah I will cover that when your setting up gears you don’t use the crush sleeve until everything meshes right
Great. Thanks
Do they make set-up bearings or do I need to make my own ?????
Actually, do you have another recommendation for a locker in the 8.25 other than the lunch box type that would give me a open diff type setup?
Still don't understand why the charge that much for regear did my first one a few years ago and still fain going to redo again
I have a locker in the front {D30} how low can I go with the gearing
Ok I’ve binged all of your re-gear videos and love your content. I have an 89 YJ with the 4.2l motor, 5 spd manual, Dana 35/30 axles, and just put 33x12.5s on it. It has the factory 3.07 gears now. I’ve used the calculator I’ve seen in other videos but not convinced I don’t need to go higher. Formula is saying 3.73 (3.61 rounded up). But I’ve seen folks say go 4.11 or even 4.55. It’s gonna see most of its time on the road but I’d like it to run right off as well. I’d would love your input.
If you do a lot of road driving with 33s 3.73 would do great if you go 411 it will probably scream on the highway
@@cherokeeronnie well, got this just over 12 hours too late. Ordered the 4.11 kit yesterday! Will it be that bad? Not gonna go highway much but do want to be able to.
@@dkhallalhow’s your jeep?
Good so far. I did the front end shortly after the rear and still breaking everything in. Have not had it above 60 much seems ok so far, I’ll let ya know. Thanks for checking.
Just but 35 on it will be great
Quick question...
I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with 4x4 auto and the 4.0 engine.
My electric cooling fan just went out. It's cooler weather now. How long can I operate without this fan????
Might get you through the winter but before summer I would definitely try to find one
@@cherokeeronnie thank you for responding.
@3:02 how to say you reload ammo without saying you reload ammo :D
If I have place near me that will do a regear for 1450, should I go with then or do it myself?
Ask what gear set they are using if they are using a good set that’s pretty good price don’t be afraid to ask a lot of questions
@@cherokeeronnie yea I had a choice of revolution, yukon and motive. So at least one of them is the one you recommend
You can’t go wrong with revolution they set up super nice and they don’t make much noise