Tanks are one of those things you think 'I can build one, simple!' then 10 hours later you have a box on wheels and you hate it. lol Thank you for these tips!
I'd like to add a bit to this tutorial, considering that i have 1.2k hours on FtD, mainly spend in the land designer: -HE CRAM cannons, they will murder your tank, don't forget to add HA roof and floor armor for the front part of your tank because CRAM won't care about your 1-2 layers of metal -Your turret (and your gun) is the most important part of your tank, protect it. Don't make a "deck gun" as it will make it much larger and more expensive to protect. Use Heavy barrels when you can to get as much protection for your gun. I'd advise to use autoloaders+clips, because if your gun gets damaged, it will probably be damaged into uselesness anyways. You can sacrifice firepower for turret protection by armouring the front part of the sunken part of the turret, or you can use only autoloaders but that will be more expensive. -Fast shell are very important, use railgun if you have a slow shell -HESH shells are great against DWG, LH, TG when they can get through the shields, but are not that great against SE and OW designs. -Steam engines are pretty compact and generate a lot of power and can even generate electricity when connected to a turbine or a wheel+generator). -I usually add HA everywhere, but the most important parts to armour are the front part of the hull(+roof and floor if you have ammo/AI/engine here), front of the turret (don't forget the roof) and the rear part of the hull behind the turret (+roof and floor if you have ammo/AI/engine here) -Flares and radar target simulator are VERY useful to prevent missiles from hitting weakpoints of your craft
I usually just swarm CRAM craft or keep distance from them anyway. I would usually advise against deck guns too, but they seem to be working out for me at the moment.
@@BorderWise12 i found out the hard way that CRAM had a nasty tendancy to get under the hull or hit the roof, if you face them head-on. Consireding i have a tendancy to use mostly 30-50k crafts i usually armor them against CRAM, but swarming them is definitely a valid tactic, though
Borderwise Could you please check workshop, i made some STUFF it old but... Aaanyway if you interested just search FOR BORDERWISE in search tab, there should be 6 VEHICLES and weapon concepts
I found that vertically launched missles with one turn, apn and a significant tracking delay (so the tracking only starting a second orso after launch, along with using roughly 10-20% thrust before lock on) tend to be fairly good, the idea being that you can accurately lob payloads onto the top of enemy vehicles, which tend to be fairly poorly protected in comparison to direct combat surfaces. Only real problem with that tactic is logistics & very vast vehicles.
Been a while, glad to see more Ashes related stuff, a few personal tips and trick I picked up along the way when playing, note that this mostly applies to circlers, since those are the kind of vehicles I do. - As BW pointed out HA spam is not always best, makes the craft sluggish and although there is not much (if any at all) EMP in the campaign atm, it makes it extremely vulnerable to EMP missiles. - Make use of poles, even a 50k tank can be easily made in a fair bit of quantity until the start of the conflict, so don't worry about cost too much, air gaps are good but a HA pole can make even better use of that gap by actively taking the brunt of the HEAT instead of the line of beams behind it, and never leave poles as a last defense, they can sometimes get a few fragments trough them, your gap filler should never be your last line of defense. - Don't skimp on shell speed, it's rather easy to make craft go 50m/s on wheel power alone, more since some craft use thrusts for better acceleration and slightly better top speed, Ashes shells on average go about 600m/s, they sometimes look like CRAM shells. - Speaking of CRAMs, CRAMs are bad for a tank's health (mind blowing right?), if you are gona try and tank it, you better be packing some really heavy armor - Active and Passive defenses, Ashes craft are rather small, so decoys work great on them, same can be said for other types of defenses like CIWS and Chaff, missiles are not as long and chunky as your average Neter missile. Additionally: You can make a dedicated decoy carrier or just make a variant of a existing tank to use decoys on top of the usual stuff (works best since then you have the same base chassis, so they should stick together) that will stop you from having 6 tanks all wasting decoys when 1 would be enough like I used to. - Multitasking, if you commit to mostly tank you will probably have an AA vehicle in your tank group, you can give it some multi tasking ability in 2 ways: 1 - Ammo belts, basically like real life ammo belts, you alternate the shells in the inputs, so you can have for example a HEAT, Flak, HEAT, Flak belt, loading order is dictated my placement order iirc. 2 - Clip-less feeding controlled by ACBs, self explanatory, no clips in the gun, ACB will tell the clips to change either to HEAT or Flak based on some target information (I mostly use height personally), since there is no clip to go trough the change should be almost instant. Doing a combination of all those things so far has gotten me past DWG, OW, SS and LH (to a lesser degree, damn lasers) with minimal casualties on a 51k 2.2k volume tank, hope this helps to some people new to Ashes. But most important of all, just have fun, personally I just turn the volume limit off and try to not do anything bigger than 7.5k volume which is iirc around the biggest craft the AI has access to, the biggest pro of Ashes is the scale is not as big as Neter, so you can be silly and still get things done, or use more cosmetic oriented craft that normally would not be able to do much. But I would still recommend to try the limit first, for me personally having a limit set on myself really helped improve my building methods.
Some additional things I forgot: - Spaced armor works, more specifically ww2 style German space armor (see Panzer IV H for reference), there are 3 ways to do it: 1 - Just slap beams on the side, this is get you the best results for armor performance. 2 - Use plates (don't ever actually use plates for the love of god), this will give you the lest performance but the best aesthetic, at least for me. 3 - Metal mimics with plate mesh, this is a in-between, not as good as a 4m beam, but not as bad as a plate while still maintaining the same aesthetic (this is what I personally use) You can also use the same tactic for anything else, just remember it's always gona behave like a 1m metal block physically. - As BW said you should focus armor on what is goan be facing the enemy, but that doesn't mean you should skimp on the rest of it, when facing a big group or even a small one enemies can and WILL get in front of you and behind you, not to mention you need to approach the enemy first depending on range settings or how you start the battle, so my personal rule of thumb for circlers is: 1 - Front armor should be able to survive first engagement, you never know when you can get hit by a lucky shot. 2 - Sides should be where the bulk of your armor it. 3 - Back should be able to survive glancing shots and take some degree of beating, especially if your engine is positioned near there.
I started FtD about a month ago and I completed my land and air forces for Ashes! I love how the volume limit challenges you to be creative, my command ship is made of tractor beams and 5 parts and is entirely 'within' the volume limit. But thanks for all the tutorials, especially the APS and railgun tutorials which were crucial in getting started! Most of my tanks use heavy armor as an armor module in the front. They're front-siders that move forward and back while wiggling side-to-side. Seems enough to throw off any CRAM targeting.
Upping spring strength all the way makes you more bouncy, this impacts acceleration and turning ability. Rule of thumb tends to be to increase it to the point of just a little bit more than what it takes to extend the spring at a standstill.
Talking about armor, i use sandwich approach, for example right to left from most outer to most inner layer (Metal, Rubber, alloy, ERA, stone/heavy armor), use heavy armor sparingly hid it under cheaper various blocks and ERA.
More or less the opposite of my Tank_6, which is relatively cheap (26,000): pure HA; sunken rail-assist hollow-point powered by a turbo-charged fuel engine; wheels powered by RTGs, going up to 40m/s on the map and getting up to 30 m/s in combat; ramming AI with a little point on the front; 2 repair tentacles and 1 bot; Hull height of 5, turret height of 5 or 6. I usually deploy them in fleets of 3 or 7, sometimes with multiple of these fleets in a battle. After some upgrades, they had only mild trouble against the steel empire. Cost? I save a huge amount of fuel, and I actually can't spend my mats fast enough. The rail-assist hollow-point was designed with some efficiency in mind, so it saves on that a bit, too. I have way more fleets than I know what to do with, and mats up the wazoo (Most of it not salvaged.) I find one of the most important things not mentioned here is detection and accuracy. You don't do well against targets you don't hit, you don't hit targets you can't see. The Tank_6 uses a combination of a big coincidence rangefinder and two 90° visual cameras, all mounted in the turret. This, in combination with an inter-vehicle transmitter, and good APS design, means the only things my tanks miss often are aircraft and vehicles out at over 2km. Some of the most important parts of designing agile (at least in a visually appealing and/or intuitively good way) tanks is tuning the wheels. You need a full set of wheels for the tracks, both to prevent yourself from bottoming out on hills (see above video), for redundancy, and for efficiency: you should turn the power input of the wheels down till only a modestly sized RTG setup can power it up to reasonably exciting speeds. If you don't remember, the power input defaults to using the least efficient setting: 4x output, 6x power cost. With more wheels, you can achieve the same thrust more efficiently. In conjunction, turn up the forward friction to max, as anything under 2 means you're just wasting power. Bias the horizontal friction towards the back, this way your tank will self-adjust to face it's velocity. (You could conceivably reverse this to make turning less stable, if somehow that's a problem. Certainly you can make it too stable, so tune this with care.) Stress testing will give you an idea of how to do it, but I spend hours on this alone. Just stick a chair and steering wheel on the back (not the top, if you care about drag), and drive around, see how it feels. When you're done, take that off, and hope the AI can manage to drive in a straight line when you test the cruising speed. There's a big advantage in not using turning wheels, which is that this tuning step is much easier. When you have turning wheels, the dampening, bump, and max suspension forces become very important, because you'd like to turn at high speeds without flipping and while minimizing drift. With tracks, the thing's gonna drift, and that's chill. That means you also would like to let the thing drift, too: the turning will happen more as you push towards the target than through friction. Too little horizontal friction, though, means the drift never ends, and you never get where you're going.
There is a cheesy secret, though, I've recently discovered, creating a sort of tank that deserves an entirely new classification, which I've called the 'Hussar.' (To clarify, the Tank_6 is not one of these 'Hussars'.) Essentially, if you give your tank some angle, a _lot_ of angle (like 30° or 40°, tilting forwards), then stick a whole bunch of wings (yes, the part in the Air section) somewhere in the tank, set them to negative lift, which they should default to, you get a bunch more thrust because the wings are literally pushing you forwards. (Actually they push you up, but up is relative to the angle everything is built at, and that's tilted some 30° or 40° forwards.) This should easily get you to the 60 m/s limit on wheel thrust. At this point, though, the wings can't help you, so you can only go faster with other forms of propulsion. That some good cheese. Should it work? No. Does it give you an advantage? Yeah, probably. It's like mozzarella: mild, fun to play with. But it's not Gouda enough. If you do all that, then set the thrust on the wheels backwards, in the current version of the game it seems that the wheels are bugged: They push you forwards (they should push you backwards, which is what I originally wanted), but they still count that 60 m/s limit as if they were trying to go backwards, so the backwards speed is negative, which is always less than 60. The result? 80 m/s, nothing but wheels and wings. Interesting though that it isn't higher. You can do a bit better with more power to the wheels and more wings, but the diminishing returns are quite firm. Perhaps the 60 m/s cap is unnecessary. Perhaps I have the bug incorrect. I should probably file a bug report, shouldn't I? Forgot to do that.
Best config on armour i've found for AotE is metal-heavy-applique-any. Metal will get the full heavy armour ac summed to it and it doesn't look as ugly (last part is just personal preference). Not only that but its very resistant to heat/hesh due applique making it it both air and the extra armour added by it. It ups the cost somewhat because of the heavy armour but it's the most protection for weight ratio I've found. As for weapon, APFLAK works wonders since most designs are so compact. Kinda cheesy I know but easy to build and works wonders. AotE doesn't get the love it deserves and its my favorite mode! Thx for the video showcasing it borderwise!
Here's an advanced design request: build DEAD RECKONING. It comes from a 2005 zombie apocalypse movie: George A Romero's LAND OF THE DEAD. "Dead Reckoning is a heavily modified and custom made Semi truck designed solely for protecting humans against zombies. It is heavily armed and armored, able of withstand any attacks that zombies try to utilize. A vehicle like this is designed with a variety of different weapons and equipment. >Dual-Mounted Miniguns: A major innovation for Dead Reckoning is its pair of remote controlled miniguns that can rotate to any targets that are in front of Dead Reckoning. They are controlled inside by its crew. >Side-Mounted M-60D Machine Guns: When the front mounted miniguns are not able to take on enemies on the sides, there are two manned M-60D machine guns that are mounted on each side. >"6 Pack" Rocket Launchers: On top of Dead Reckoning are a pair of rocket launchers nicknamed "6 Pack" due to the fact that there are 6 rockets in each tube. The rockets are powerful enough to cause a great deal of damage, although this was never fully seen. >Firework "Sky Flower" Launcher: A non-lethal weapon, Dead Reckoning has a launcher designed specifically to launch custom made rounds that dispurse fireworks when launched. They are only used by the crew to distract zombies while survivors procure supplies. >Advanced Computer Systems: Dead Reckoning has also been outfitted with advanced computer systems featuring targeting capabilities and even map displays of various locations. The computers also give the crew visual feeds from cameras mounted outside of Dead Reckoning."
Forward friction; there’s really no point in not having it on max unless it causes the vehicle to do a wheelie Side friction; for tanks, max it out for the wheels near to the center of mass and reduce it for the ones farther This will make for a maneuverable tank that doesn’t slide around much
I put the turret, engine, and AI on the floor. Then turret well armor and wrap-around. If there's space above the engine or AI compartment there's room for a driving compartment which doubles as spaced armor.
Another tip is to use spin blocks to create stronger frontal armor (Or side armor if you feel spicy I suppose). It is cheese but it is the best way to make good looking frontal armor
As basic as that is yes. I'd still suggest starting with a hull. And remember. Protect your rubbing gear. Don't make them stick out in front of the hull. Keep your mobility protected
I have made a family of Tanks costing around 40k and MkII family of around 65k, both made mostly of HA and they kick ass... until some sneaky round manage to hit ammo. It's like 100->99->97->94->BOOM!!!->56% hp. That's what you get if you do paper (1 layer) thin armor. But for the love of me I will always sacrifice armor spacing and layering in favor of bigger guns on tanks.
I made a bane-blade replica just a few days ago, it was out of my comfort zone as it's a close-range vehicle and has multiple weapons instead of 1. It was extremely effective and funny enough the most damaging part were 1Q close-range lasers. The 'main gun' is actually a missile (heat-emp). The CRAM demolisher cannon works well with the lasers for close range alpha damage.
That's nice to know, I prefer quality in the cast of FTD, and since you prefer quantity may I look at your tanks to see if I can learn anything from them?
It's been deleted. Neither myself or the moderators had the time, will or energy to moderate it anymore. There are two fan-run servers now, though: the Shipbuilder's Paradise and the Armoury. :)
@@BorderWise12 after doing some looking into this. I think people would be better off with a frontsider tank. It would make for a smaller target. It would also allow for more armor to be focused in one location. This is how tank warfare works in the real world. Tank crews are trained to avoid exposing the sides of the tank and try to only present the areas that have the thickest armor. What you are proposing is that people show a much bigger silhouette than what is needed. You don't need to go around in circles exposing your side that's most visible. Also getting a frontsider tank to keep in motion only really needs 2 acbs to have it constantly change it's range. In my opinion a tank that keeps itself pointed at it's target that could constantly change it's range would make it hard to hit with crams or aps. I can recommend some one who has been able to do this. His tanks can take on units in the AotE that are far more expensive than their own cost.
I hate volume limits. I might be for a much larger one (30k-100k volume) but anything else just limits you to the builds that are the least fun. I just want a 1M resource mega-tank.
In one play through I did exactly that, made a slow and sluggish siege fortress for the meme. Plastered in AA & having a big f-off fixed siege mortar in the middle of it. Was it practical? No, no not at all. Was it fun? Yes. Absolutely.
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how in from the depths something like a basic tank tutorial is 40 minutes long and everyone is just "that's ftd baby"
Anyways, great video.
Yeah, making something small and functional are more complex than build RATTE full size with all eternals functional
Tanks are one of those things you think 'I can build one, simple!' then 10 hours later you have a box on wheels and you hate it. lol
Thank you for these tips!
You're welcome! 😁
I'd like to add a bit to this tutorial, considering that i have 1.2k hours on FtD, mainly spend in the land designer:
-HE CRAM cannons, they will murder your tank, don't forget to add HA roof and floor armor for the front part of your tank because CRAM won't care about your 1-2 layers of metal
-Your turret (and your gun) is the most important part of your tank, protect it. Don't make a "deck gun" as it will make it much larger and more expensive to protect. Use Heavy barrels when you can to get as much protection for your gun. I'd advise to use autoloaders+clips, because if your gun gets damaged, it will probably be damaged into uselesness anyways. You can sacrifice firepower for turret protection by armouring the front part of the sunken part of the turret, or you can use only autoloaders but that will be more expensive.
-Fast shell are very important, use railgun if you have a slow shell
-HESH shells are great against DWG, LH, TG when they can get through the shields, but are not that great against SE and OW designs.
-Steam engines are pretty compact and generate a lot of power and can even generate electricity when connected to a turbine or a wheel+generator).
-I usually add HA everywhere, but the most important parts to armour are the front part of the hull(+roof and floor if you have ammo/AI/engine here), front of the turret (don't forget the roof) and the rear part of the hull behind the turret (+roof and floor if you have ammo/AI/engine here)
-Flares and radar target simulator are VERY useful to prevent missiles from hitting weakpoints of your craft
I usually just swarm CRAM craft or keep distance from them anyway. I would usually advise against deck guns too, but they seem to be working out for me at the moment.
@@BorderWise12 i found out the hard way that CRAM had a nasty tendancy to get under the hull or hit the roof, if you face them head-on. Consireding i have a tendancy to use mostly 30-50k crafts i usually armor them against CRAM, but swarming them is definitely a valid tactic, though
man i wish more people would play from the depths
Yes I agree
Yes, but TBO it require SO MUCH TIME TO START TO Play it kinda ridikilous
Check AiyonMk3 channel
Lathrix also made FTD videos
Borderwise
Could you please check workshop, i made some STUFF it old but... Aaanyway if you interested just search FOR BORDERWISE in search tab, there should be 6 VEHICLES and weapon concepts
Step 1: turn off the AOTE volume limit
I found that vertically launched missles with one turn, apn and a significant tracking delay (so the tracking only starting a second orso after launch, along with using roughly 10-20% thrust before lock on) tend to be fairly good, the idea being that you can accurately lob payloads onto the top of enemy vehicles, which tend to be fairly poorly protected in comparison to direct combat surfaces. Only real problem with that tactic is logistics & very vast vehicles.
I wrote this last night while super tired and realized I could've just said "javelin atgms work well"
"Remember, use rubber for safety" - Borderwise 2021
Tank you Borderwise for this wonderful video. I love your video style that feels so down to earth and has taught me a lot about the game.
You're welcome! 😁👍
Been a while, glad to see more Ashes related stuff, a few personal tips and trick I picked up along the way when playing, note that this mostly applies to circlers, since those are the kind of vehicles I do.
- As BW pointed out HA spam is not always best, makes the craft sluggish and although there is not much (if any at all) EMP in the campaign atm, it makes it extremely vulnerable to EMP missiles.
- Make use of poles, even a 50k tank can be easily made in a fair bit of quantity until the start of the conflict, so don't worry about cost too much, air gaps are good but a HA pole can make even better use of that gap by actively taking the brunt of the HEAT instead of the line of beams behind it, and never leave poles as a last defense, they can sometimes get a few fragments trough them, your gap filler should never be your last line of defense.
- Don't skimp on shell speed, it's rather easy to make craft go 50m/s on wheel power alone, more since some craft use thrusts for better acceleration and slightly better top speed, Ashes shells on average go about 600m/s, they sometimes look like CRAM shells.
- Speaking of CRAMs, CRAMs are bad for a tank's health (mind blowing right?), if you are gona try and tank it, you better be packing some really heavy armor
- Active and Passive defenses, Ashes craft are rather small, so decoys work great on them, same can be said for other types of defenses like CIWS and Chaff, missiles are not as long and chunky as your average Neter missile.
Additionally: You can make a dedicated decoy carrier or just make a variant of a existing tank to use decoys on top of the usual stuff (works best since then you have the same base chassis, so they should stick together) that will stop you from having 6 tanks all wasting decoys when 1 would be enough like I used to.
- Multitasking, if you commit to mostly tank you will probably have an AA vehicle in your tank group, you can give it some multi tasking ability in 2 ways:
1 - Ammo belts, basically like real life ammo belts, you alternate the shells in the inputs, so you can have for example a HEAT, Flak, HEAT, Flak belt, loading order is dictated my placement order iirc.
2 - Clip-less feeding controlled by ACBs, self explanatory, no clips in the gun, ACB will tell the clips to change either to HEAT or Flak based on some target information (I mostly use height personally), since there is no clip to go trough the change should be almost instant.
Doing a combination of all those things so far has gotten me past DWG, OW, SS and LH (to a lesser degree, damn lasers) with minimal casualties on a 51k 2.2k volume tank, hope this helps to some people new to Ashes.
But most important of all, just have fun, personally I just turn the volume limit off and try to not do anything bigger than 7.5k volume which is iirc around the biggest craft the AI has access to, the biggest pro of Ashes is the scale is not as big as Neter, so you can be silly and still get things done, or use more cosmetic oriented craft that normally would not be able to do much.
But I would still recommend to try the limit first, for me personally having a limit set on myself really helped improve my building methods.
Some additional things I forgot:
- Spaced armor works, more specifically ww2 style German space armor (see Panzer IV H for reference), there are 3 ways to do it:
1 - Just slap beams on the side, this is get you the best results for armor performance.
2 - Use plates (don't ever actually use plates for the love of god), this will give you the lest performance but the best aesthetic, at least for me.
3 - Metal mimics with plate mesh, this is a in-between, not as good as a 4m beam, but not as bad as a plate while still maintaining the same aesthetic (this is what I personally use)
You can also use the same tactic for anything else, just remember it's always gona behave like a 1m metal block physically.
- As BW said you should focus armor on what is goan be facing the enemy, but that doesn't mean you should skimp on the rest of it, when facing a big group or even a small one enemies can and WILL get in front of you and behind you, not to mention you need to approach the enemy first depending on range settings or how you start the battle, so my personal rule of thumb for circlers is:
1 - Front armor should be able to survive first engagement, you never know when you can get hit by a lucky shot.
2 - Sides should be where the bulk of your armor it.
3 - Back should be able to survive glancing shots and take some degree of beating, especially if your engine is positioned near there.
I started FtD about a month ago and I completed my land and air forces for Ashes! I love how the volume limit challenges you to be creative, my command ship is made of tractor beams and 5 parts and is entirely 'within' the volume limit. But thanks for all the tutorials, especially the APS and railgun tutorials which were crucial in getting started!
Most of my tanks use heavy armor as an armor module in the front. They're front-siders that move forward and back while wiggling side-to-side. Seems enough to throw off any CRAM targeting.
Upping spring strength all the way makes you more bouncy, this impacts acceleration and turning ability. Rule of thumb tends to be to increase it to the point of just a little bit more than what it takes to extend the spring at a standstill.
Talking about armor, i use sandwich approach, for example right to left from most outer to most inner layer (Metal, Rubber, alloy, ERA, stone/heavy armor), use heavy armor sparingly hid it under cheaper various blocks and ERA.
More or less the opposite of my Tank_6, which is relatively cheap (26,000): pure HA; sunken rail-assist hollow-point powered by a turbo-charged fuel engine; wheels powered by RTGs, going up to 40m/s on the map and getting up to 30 m/s in combat; ramming AI with a little point on the front; 2 repair tentacles and 1 bot; Hull height of 5, turret height of 5 or 6.
I usually deploy them in fleets of 3 or 7, sometimes with multiple of these fleets in a battle. After some upgrades, they had only mild trouble against the steel empire.
Cost? I save a huge amount of fuel, and I actually can't spend my mats fast enough. The rail-assist hollow-point was designed with some efficiency in mind, so it saves on that a bit, too. I have way more fleets than I know what to do with, and mats up the wazoo (Most of it not salvaged.)
I find one of the most important things not mentioned here is detection and accuracy. You don't do well against targets you don't hit, you don't hit targets you can't see. The Tank_6 uses a combination of a big coincidence rangefinder and two 90° visual cameras, all mounted in the turret. This, in combination with an inter-vehicle transmitter, and good APS design, means the only things my tanks miss often are aircraft and vehicles out at over 2km.
Some of the most important parts of designing agile (at least in a visually appealing and/or intuitively good way) tanks is tuning the wheels. You need a full set of wheels for the tracks, both to prevent yourself from bottoming out on hills (see above video), for redundancy, and for efficiency: you should turn the power input of the wheels down till only a modestly sized RTG setup can power it up to reasonably exciting speeds. If you don't remember, the power input defaults to using the least efficient setting: 4x output, 6x power cost. With more wheels, you can achieve the same thrust more efficiently. In conjunction, turn up the forward friction to max, as anything under 2 means you're just wasting power. Bias the horizontal friction towards the back, this way your tank will self-adjust to face it's velocity. (You could conceivably reverse this to make turning less stable, if somehow that's a problem. Certainly you can make it too stable, so tune this with care.)
Stress testing will give you an idea of how to do it, but I spend hours on this alone. Just stick a chair and steering wheel on the back (not the top, if you care about drag), and drive around, see how it feels. When you're done, take that off, and hope the AI can manage to drive in a straight line when you test the cruising speed. There's a big advantage in not using turning wheels, which is that this tuning step is much easier. When you have turning wheels, the dampening, bump, and max suspension forces become very important, because you'd like to turn at high speeds without flipping and while minimizing drift. With tracks, the thing's gonna drift, and that's chill. That means you also would like to let the thing drift, too: the turning will happen more as you push towards the target than through friction. Too little horizontal friction, though, means the drift never ends, and you never get where you're going.
There is a cheesy secret, though, I've recently discovered, creating a sort of tank that deserves an entirely new classification, which I've called the 'Hussar.' (To clarify, the Tank_6 is not one of these 'Hussars'.)
Essentially, if you give your tank some angle, a _lot_ of angle (like 30° or 40°, tilting forwards), then stick a whole bunch of wings (yes, the part in the Air section) somewhere in the tank, set them to negative lift, which they should default to, you get a bunch more thrust because the wings are literally pushing you forwards. (Actually they push you up, but up is relative to the angle everything is built at, and that's tilted some 30° or 40° forwards.) This should easily get you to the 60 m/s limit on wheel thrust. At this point, though, the wings can't help you, so you can only go faster with other forms of propulsion.
That some good cheese. Should it work? No. Does it give you an advantage? Yeah, probably. It's like mozzarella: mild, fun to play with.
But it's not Gouda enough.
If you do all that, then set the thrust on the wheels backwards, in the current version of the game it seems that the wheels are bugged: They push you forwards (they should push you backwards, which is what I originally wanted), but they still count that 60 m/s limit as if they were trying to go backwards, so the backwards speed is negative, which is always less than 60.
The result? 80 m/s, nothing but wheels and wings. Interesting though that it isn't higher. You can do a bit better with more power to the wheels and more wings, but the diminishing returns are quite firm. Perhaps the 60 m/s cap is unnecessary. Perhaps I have the bug incorrect.
I should probably file a bug report, shouldn't I? Forgot to do that.
Best config on armour i've found for AotE is metal-heavy-applique-any. Metal will get the full heavy armour ac summed to it and it doesn't look as ugly (last part is just personal preference). Not only that but its very resistant to heat/hesh due applique making it it both air and the extra armour added by it. It ups the cost somewhat because of the heavy armour but it's the most protection for weight ratio I've found.
As for weapon, APFLAK works wonders since most designs are so compact. Kinda cheesy I know but easy to build and works wonders.
AotE doesn't get the love it deserves and its my favorite mode! Thx for the video showcasing it borderwise!
Here's an advanced design request: build DEAD RECKONING.
It comes from a 2005 zombie apocalypse movie: George A Romero's LAND OF THE DEAD.
"Dead Reckoning is a heavily modified and custom made Semi truck designed solely for protecting humans against zombies. It is heavily armed and armored, able of withstand any attacks that zombies try to utilize. A vehicle like this is designed with a variety of different weapons and equipment.
>Dual-Mounted Miniguns: A major innovation for Dead Reckoning is its pair of remote controlled miniguns that can rotate to any targets that are in front of Dead Reckoning. They are controlled inside by its crew.
>Side-Mounted M-60D Machine Guns: When the front mounted miniguns are not able to take on enemies on the sides, there are two manned M-60D machine guns that are mounted on each side.
>"6 Pack" Rocket Launchers: On top of Dead Reckoning are a pair of rocket launchers nicknamed "6 Pack" due to the fact that there are 6 rockets in each tube. The rockets are powerful enough to cause a great deal of damage, although this was never fully seen.
>Firework "Sky Flower" Launcher: A non-lethal weapon, Dead Reckoning has a launcher designed specifically to launch custom made rounds that dispurse fireworks when launched. They are only used by the crew to distract zombies while survivors procure supplies.
>Advanced Computer Systems: Dead Reckoning has also been outfitted with advanced computer systems featuring targeting capabilities and even map displays of various locations. The computers also give the crew visual feeds from cameras mounted outside of Dead Reckoning."
Forward friction; there’s really no point in not having it on max unless it causes the vehicle to do a wheelie
Side friction; for tanks, max it out for the wheels near to the center of mass and reduce it for the ones farther
This will make for a maneuverable tank that doesn’t slide around much
Wow its almost as if you know what i am doing in ftd. Tank you for this tutorial!
what about turning. i cant get my tank to turn
Funny how you/he start build Tank from turret, i always start with hull, and design turret according to hull design
I put the turret, engine, and AI on the floor. Then turret well armor and wrap-around. If there's space above the engine or AI compartment there's room for a driving compartment which doubles as spaced armor.
Another tip is to use spin blocks to create stronger frontal armor (Or side armor if you feel spicy I suppose). It is cheese but it is the best way to make good looking frontal armor
As basic as that is yes. I'd still suggest starting with a hull. And remember. Protect your rubbing gear. Don't make them stick out in front of the hull. Keep your mobility protected
spaced armour, heat, and hesh... sounds just like real life tanks
i went complete ham with armor like fron between 3 layers of metal and 5 with heavy armor
I have made a family of Tanks costing around 40k and MkII family of around 65k, both made mostly of HA and they kick ass... until some sneaky round manage to hit ammo. It's like 100->99->97->94->BOOM!!!->56% hp. That's what you get if you do paper (1 layer) thin armor. But for the love of me I will always sacrifice armor spacing and layering in favor of bigger guns on tanks.
I would like to also mention that your compact SteamEs waste 1(Gasp!) volume since you actually don't need a pipe to connect boiler to turbine.
@@gauthel Yup. That steam thing is an old prefab I haven't fixed yet. 😅
tank keeps making donuts and feel floaty on the ground
from the depths is the game where you watch 30 tutorials and still be wondering why theres is working
"SMALL"? AND "FUNCTIONAL"? I belive this is not FTD you are talking about
and you basically just made a leopard 2 turret front
The land designer is just about the only mode i play in form the depths.
Could you make a guide on how to compartmentalize vehicles? Or in other words not have it being one huge tube.
Did he just turned FTD to sprocket!? 0_0
I just found the inventor of the FV4005...
The reason heat works so well in ftd is because heat in real life also is the biggest threat to tanks
I think I'll just put wheels on a battleship
I want to see a bane blade build that’s like 3 times larger then lore
I made a bane-blade replica just a few days ago, it was out of my comfort zone as it's a close-range vehicle and has multiple weapons instead of 1. It was extremely effective and funny enough the most damaging part were 1Q close-range lasers. The 'main gun' is actually a missile (heat-emp). The CRAM demolisher cannon works well with the lasers for close range alpha damage.
Is there still a volume limit in that game mode?
Like I said in the video: yes, but it is an optional feature.
Yes! My ratte can fight again!
TONKS
How effective are jet propelled land sliders. We have wheels and legs but is sliding viable?
It can work, yes. They handles hills even worse than wheels do, though. 😅
Could you do something on getting good looking turret caps? All I try to make are way too spikey
Sure, but 'good-looking' is pretty subjective. Only sure way to get stuff you like the look of is to practice and experiment. 😅
What type of tanks do you prefer, Quality or Quantity?
Preferably both. But quantity over quality, since I'm not an expert at making tanks. 😅
That's nice to know, I prefer quality in the cast of FTD, and since you prefer quantity may I look at your tanks to see if I can learn anything from them?
I have a lot of problems in the land campaign with missles.they are cheapish to use but i feel they are harder to counter on land. Any tips?
Good countermeasures. If neccesary, have a dedicated flare chucker with every fleet of vehicles you have.
I’ve noticed that borderwise never leaves a link to his discord anymore. Does anyone know what happened?
It's been deleted. Neither myself or the moderators had the time, will or energy to moderate it anymore.
There are two fan-run servers now, though: the Shipbuilder's Paradise and the Armoury. :)
@@BorderWise12 thanks, do you have a link to one of them?
Emp and the heavy amour tank gets regt
Would it be possible to get blueprints of these designs?
Sure! I can chuck 'em up on the workshop.
Here ya go: steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2515450572
@@BorderWise12 after doing some looking into this. I think people would be better off with a frontsider tank. It would make for a smaller target. It would also allow for more armor to be focused in one location. This is how tank warfare works in the real world. Tank crews are trained to avoid exposing the sides of the tank and try to only present the areas that have the thickest armor. What you are proposing is that people show a much bigger silhouette than what is needed. You don't need to go around in circles exposing your side that's most visible. Also getting a frontsider tank to keep in motion only really needs 2 acbs to have it constantly change it's range. In my opinion a tank that keeps itself pointed at it's target that could constantly change it's range would make it hard to hit with crams or aps. I can recommend some one who has been able to do this. His tanks can take on units in the AotE that are far more expensive than their own cost.
Borderwise, may i join your discord server if you have one?
I don't, sorry. 😅
you could easily make one lmao
I hate volume limits. I might be for a much larger one (30k-100k volume) but anything else just limits you to the builds that are the least fun. I just want a 1M resource mega-tank.
In one play through I did exactly that, made a slow and sluggish siege fortress for the meme. Plastered in AA & having a big f-off fixed siege mortar in the middle of it. Was it practical? No, no not at all. Was it fun? Yes. Absolutely.
ah yes
More like pancake tutorial