I forgot to mention the Auto-calc function for the flushing volumes. Follow this link to the Bambu labs wiki and look for the "Auto-Calc Flushing Volumes" heading: wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change
That's a must to know, well done. This printer poops too much... That feature is essential, and set as it comes makes a terrible amount of plastic waste!
Thank you for a quick, to the point tutorial! Just received my X1C this week and had no idea how to do the coloring and now I am confident in starting with it.
Thank you, this helped me a lot! Do you have any tutorials on assembling/combining different model parts? For example, I want to add a circular base to a miniature model I like without the print to be off or otherwise distorted. Any tips?
Very nice walkthrough🌼 you mention when you insert the stl, thatbit will adpot the first color, which is true. You can also type - on your keyboard, 2, 3 or 4 as the next step before doing anything else, that will change the color to whatever is in that position.
I wonder if we can draw a some other shape, I am not good at free hands drawing, so was looking for if we can certain shapes on top layer in desired color.
if you have 10 square blocks can you select them all at one time and make half one color and half the other color in the Z axis? i need to do hundreds of 1 mm tall x 25 mm x 25 mm in size. i need it to print .50 mm in one color then the other .5 mm in anouther color.
So if I want to change the black cube to all pink, can I do it without painting? Would I just change the number one slot to pink? Physically and in the software? Great video by the way! Thanks!
Yeah you can do that or select the part you want to change and then hit the corresponding AMS slot on your keyboard. So hit the "1", "2", "3" or "4' key for whatever colors you have loaded in the AMS.
Great video, really helpful. I had no idea how to multi colour prints with the ams, this put me off buying one. No I know and will now purchase. Did you ever do the video on reducing wastage settings? Thank you.
Yes there will be a window in the preview tab that shows you how much filament is used in the model, flushed (wasted) and in the purge tower. The A1 combo is a great option. Haven't had any issues with mine so far. Love the AMS lite for being able to pick between my most frequently used filaments without having to load/unload every time. I don't do much multicolor printing at the moment but it's nice to have that option too.
Hi, thanks for the video. I was wondering if you knew a way that I can color a section of the part that travels all the way through the part. Picture a desk plaque that has a white block with the persons name on it, The block lettering is black. I want to be able to print the black all the way thru the part not just the top layers, but have the white block around it. Is this possible that you know about?
Hi TC, I don't know of any tools that do what you're looking to do... If you have modeling software you could potentially model the part as multiple bodies and color the bodies individually. Or you can model a small groove in the outline of the lettering on the opposite side to be the outline of the letters and allow for quick color application. both of those might be more effort than it's worth and require some modeling.
I have a pre-made, pre-coloured object (i don't have to paint it) but I can't figure out how to change individual colours in the "prepare" section. I can definitely select the right colours in the "print plate" sectiopn as in this video, so it's not the end of the world, but I'd love to figure out how to change their colours in the prepare section so I can get an idea of what they'll look like
Any tips on getting prints that color change multiple times in many layers to behave? Example: If you changed the model shown to have a different color in each quadrant ( an example might be: bottom 4 corners are black, pink, orange, and grey, with the top for corners being orange, grey, black, then pink). I'm having issues where I am able to see/feel the seams when the color changes and getting what appears to be layer shifts. Since the ability to use multiple colors in the same print is one of the reasons I bought my P1S, I'd like to believe there is something I am missing in the settings that is causing my issues. Thanks!
When you save the 3mf file the color selections are saved in the file. You can also copy paste the part within the slicer if you want to print multiples at the same time.
@@3DPrintStuffthanks! Also, is there a way to change infill color to be 2 toned on inside? Im trying to print a miniature with a black base and yellow figure standing on top. The problem i have is that for either the base or figure my printer is unecessarily purging between infill and outside color.
@@TerminalOingoBoingo The problem you're describing can be solved by using a "change color at layer" and I have a video on how to do this: th-cam.com/video/EJjrR5kEGRc/w-d-xo.html
I have two filaments of different colors on the bmbu studio. How do I get back to just one? or How do I print with just one of them? One more thing. To paint the object I have to use two filaments of the same type or can I use pla basic for the object and pla cf for the painting?
You can open the paint bucket tool and click "Erase all painting" that will bring you back to one color and with that part still selected you can press the numbers on your keyboard to switch between the filaments loaded in your AMS. You can use different filament types on the same part. Just be careful and check that the materials are compatible. PLA basic + PLA cf will work. Hope that answers everything.
i have a ams setup and i have black PLA in holder 1 if i want to print something only in black how can i get it to print without it printing a prime tower , my print keeps printing a tower even if im only using one color .
wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/prime-tower Third picture on this article has a “enable” checkbox for the prime tower that you can deselect to force the software to not use the prime tower on your specific parts.
@@3DPrintStuff thank you so much! One more question i have a print dimension issue. I’m trying to print a round part that’s 2.0 inch diameter 1 inch tall. . The part is coming out 2.000 on one side and if i check a different spot (180) it’s at 1.990 ( .010 difference) out of round. How can i get this dimensions closer to 2.0 inches diameter? I have default settings pla P1S
I believe you can incorporate a pause into the G-code and swap the filament manually at that layer. I wouldn't want to do this with multiple color swaps but if all you're looking for is a 2 color print that changes at a certain height then it's definitely doable. Here is a write up someone else posted on reddit: www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/10p9lfn/p1p_without_ams_change_color_at_layer_height/
Does it really matter what color you choose? I mean I have pink in #2, but I just use red or orange instead of searching for the correct pink. Would that work?
The color you choose doesn’t matter too much. It just makes it easier to match the project color to the color loaded in the ams. You get to choose what color gets printed when you go to print. It could be red in the project but you select pink in #2.
There's a filament management system called the AMS (Automated Material System) that holds 4 spools of filament. You can use up to 4 AMS's together to get 16 colors but that is way less common. For color switching the printer will cut the filament and then feed the new color. Purge a set amount of filament as waste to switch fully to the new color and then start printing again. This happens on every layer that there are different colors and does a switch for each color used so the waste can add up. Here's a video that shows that waste: th-cam.com/video/L-OYDiT_ZCw/w-d-xo.html
I'm having an issue with a 2-color print body is one color letters are another color. letters are extruded into the main body. main body is blue letters are white but when it makes its first color change it starts printing partially white infill even when flush to infill is off. it does this for every layer except the top layer making the white infill show through.
Hard to tell just from this description but it sounds like your flushing volumes aren't sufficient between color changes so there is still some of the previous color in the nozzle when it tries to print the new color. Look up how to auto calculate the flushing volumes and try it again.
@@TheMoody876 Have you used the slicers slider bar to scroll through the sliced model and see where the slicer has said to put the colors? When you use the paint bucket on something like letters the slicer will create some weird inset geometry to make sure the 2 colors still hold onto each other if that makes sense. Maybe that's what you're seeing? Maybe try starting a new bambu studio project and repainting the model? Maybe you accidentally painted inside the model at some point? Just spitballing at this point...
Yes I have used the slide bar and I selected to only put the colors on the countersink letters. The bottom layer and the vertical walls of the letters. I wish there was a way to post a picture on here to show it
@@TheMoody876 you could post on reddit or on imgur and share the link. www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/ OR www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/ Would be good options
Saves them to the micro SD card so you can remove the memory card and put it directly in your computer or you can also access them through bambu studio. "Device Tab" on the top -> "MicroSD Card" on the left
Most other printers just don't prioritize multi color printing. There is a lot of waste generated which probably turns off most professional users shopping at the higher end of printers.
@@kajekage9410 Every color change requires a purge of the nozzle that is ejected out the back of the printer. So there is wasted material on every color change.
Just wanted to say while yeah okay audio is a bit lower than normal, it's not that bad. Quiet room watching this on my phone full volume and this sounds normal
I thought the select edges variant great, in my case selecting letters on a Cryptex code wheel, and while in prepare it looked perfect, then when sliced a few letters looked ok, but many others only were little or half filled with color…. I did not try all functions showed in this video at the time, but just thought it looked great in prepare, and then horrible in preview…
Strange, I’ve had the multicolor prints create weird internal patterns with the colour but never just ignore outer sections in a specific colour. Did you find a solution to your issue in the end?
@@3DPrintStuff I tried coloring the letters which came as a separate stl and then assemble with the letter wheel itself, and in preview looked ok, but result after printing did not look great. Instead I ended up printing the variant with recessed letters which turned out great.
@@3DPrintStuff i wonder something. So you have letters raised on a surface. You dont want the whole letter in say green. You just want the top surface. Is that whats happening when i touch the paint bucket to the top, or is it changing all layers of the letter beneath to green ?
Yes, thank you for letting me know. It has been addressed in videos published after this one. Wish I could modify it within TH-cam, but they don't have this feature.
Thanks, I've had several people tell me the volume is low. I wish youtube gave me the option to increase the volume but I've made sure my following videos have better audio.
Yeah I’m not sure what happened to the audio on this one. Sounded good in the editing software… Wish there was an editing feature in TH-cam Studio to adjust the videos volume level.
The unfortunate trade off of multicolor printing with one hotend. Add a bunch of the same part to the build plate and the waste stays the same so the waste to part ratio looks much better.
Hey thanks for the feedback, I think I have this corrected on my more recent videos. I wish there was an option to increase the audio levels through TH-cam but that doesn’t seem to be an option.
@@LoneHawkI saw you replied to someone else and acknowledged that you would adjust the volume in future videos. So why would you do that if the audio sounds fine to you? It seems to be fine for me too on mobile. But when I play it on my computer, it’s really quiet.
I forgot to mention the Auto-calc function for the flushing volumes. Follow this link to the Bambu labs wiki and look for the "Auto-Calc Flushing Volumes" heading: wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change
Thanks for adding this
That's a must to know, well done. This printer poops too much... That feature is essential, and set as it comes makes a terrible amount of plastic waste!
This is a great overview of the tool. No fluff, or wasted time, just the facts. I appreciate this! Thank you!
Appreciate the comment, glad you liked it.
Thanks! I've been struggling with this feature for a few days since I got it. Lots of great info here!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the tip! You're the first person to use that feature and it really means a lot.
I am doing my first colored print. I didn't know about the various methods to paint, so you saved me time. Thanks for the video!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment!
Thank you for a quick, to the point tutorial! Just received my X1C this week and had no idea how to do the coloring and now I am confident in starting with it.
Glad this video helped, welcome to the club.
A brief video, but to the point and helpful. Thanks
Thanks for the comment
Thank you, this helped me a lot! Do you have any tutorials on assembling/combining different model parts? For example, I want to add a circular base to a miniature model I like without the print to be off or otherwise distorted. Any tips?
Thanks for the super thanks! I made a video to explain how to do this: th-cam.com/video/wQqtQQzrvM0/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps
@3DPrintStuff omg thank you so much! 😆
awesome to the point video! thank you so much for giving us what we need so concisely.
Thanks for the positive comment, glad this video was helpful.
dude, thank you so much.. i looked for the last hour trying to figure this out.. simple and sweet!
The height range option is exactly what I needed to make my raised text a different color!
Glad you found it useful!
Thanks!
Thanks for the super thanks, very appreciated
Nice one. I'm printing a minecraft grass block for my child, in 3 colors thanks to you!
Excellent video. Perfect depth and pace. Greetings from Cincinnati, Ohio.
Glad it was helpful
Concise but thorough introduction, thank you!
Very nice walkthrough🌼 you mention when you insert the stl, thatbit will adpot the first color, which is true. You can also type - on your keyboard, 2, 3 or 4 as the next step before doing anything else, that will change the color to whatever is in that position.
That's really cool, I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you!
I wonder if we can draw a some other shape, I am not good at free hands drawing, so was looking for if we can certain shapes on top layer in desired color.
if you have 10 square blocks can you select them all at one time and make half one color and half the other color in the Z axis? i need to do hundreds of 1 mm tall x 25 mm x 25 mm in size. i need it to print .50 mm in one color then the other .5 mm in anouther color.
Fantastic! Exactly what I was trying to find. Well explained. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment.
THANK YOU! It was such a simple answer I needed but I couldn't figure it out with the help of this video😅
Glad it was helpful and you found your answer :) what exactly were you looking to have answered?
A very good explanation. I will be following you more in the future. Thanks!
I was surprised to see a 40 min print jump to 14 hours.
So if I want to change the black cube to all pink, can I do it without painting? Would I just change the number one slot to pink? Physically and in the software?
Great video by the way! Thanks!
Yeah you can do that or select the part you want to change and then hit the corresponding AMS slot on your keyboard. So hit the "1", "2", "3" or "4' key for whatever colors you have loaded in the AMS.
@@3DPrintStuff Big help. Thank you!
i was worried that this was going to be an absolute B and a half, but it looks like bambulab really thought shit through.
No.. Its easy with Simple Cube but painting for example figures Is pain...
Great video, really helpful. I had no idea how to multi colour prints with the ams, this put me off buying one. No I know and will now purchase.
Did you ever do the video on reducing wastage settings?
Thank you.
does it show how much filament is wasted? do you think the current 489.00 A1 combo is good.
Yes there will be a window in the preview tab that shows you how much filament is used in the model, flushed (wasted) and in the purge tower.
The A1 combo is a great option. Haven't had any issues with mine so far. Love the AMS lite for being able to pick between my most frequently used filaments without having to load/unload every time. I don't do much multicolor printing at the moment but it's nice to have that option too.
10/10 video man, thank you! Easy to follow, perfect video!!!!
Thanks man! I usually get comments saying the audio is too low on this video haha. Those comments get old so your comment is much appreciated, thanks!
@@3DPrintStuff audio was perfect. Lmao no issues seen. Keep up the amazing work! Learned alot and can’t wait for my printer to arrive!
Hi, thanks for the video. I was wondering if you knew a way that I can color a section of the part that travels all the way through the part. Picture a desk plaque that has a white block with the persons name on it, The block lettering is black. I want to be able to print the black all the way thru the part not just the top layers, but have the white block around it. Is this possible that you know about?
Hi TC, I don't know of any tools that do what you're looking to do... If you have modeling software you could potentially model the part as multiple bodies and color the bodies individually. Or you can model a small groove in the outline of the lettering on the opposite side to be the outline of the letters and allow for quick color application. both of those might be more effort than it's worth and require some modeling.
I have a pre-made, pre-coloured object (i don't have to paint it) but I can't figure out how to change individual colours in the "prepare" section. I can definitely select the right colours in the "print plate" sectiopn as in this video, so it's not the end of the world, but I'd love to figure out how to change their colours in the prepare section so I can get an idea of what they'll look like
If you click on the number to the left of the filament you can choose what the color is in your project. I think that's all you need to do.
Any tips on getting prints that color change multiple times in many layers to behave? Example: If you changed the model shown to have a different color in each quadrant ( an example might be: bottom 4 corners are black, pink, orange, and grey, with the top for corners being orange, grey, black, then pink). I'm having issues where I am able to see/feel the seams when the color changes and getting what appears to be layer shifts. Since the ability to use multiple colors in the same print is one of the reasons I bought my P1S, I'd like to believe there is something I am missing in the settings that is causing my issues. Thanks!
Is there any way to save a sliced model with the multi color selections applied so I can print multiple of the same model?
When you save the 3mf file the color selections are saved in the file. You can also copy paste the part within the slicer if you want to print multiples at the same time.
@@3DPrintStuffthanks! Also, is there a way to change infill color to be 2 toned on inside? Im trying to print a miniature with a black base and yellow figure standing on top. The problem i have is that for either the base or figure my printer is unecessarily purging between infill and outside color.
@@TerminalOingoBoingo The problem you're describing can be solved by using a "change color at layer" and I have a video on how to do this: th-cam.com/video/EJjrR5kEGRc/w-d-xo.html
I have two filaments of different colors on the bmbu studio. How do I get back to just one? or How do I print with just one of them? One more thing. To paint the object I have to use two filaments of the same type or can I use pla basic for the object and pla cf for the painting?
You can open the paint bucket tool and click "Erase all painting" that will bring you back to one color and with that part still selected you can press the numbers on your keyboard to switch between the filaments loaded in your AMS.
You can use different filament types on the same part. Just be careful and check that the materials are compatible. PLA basic + PLA cf will work.
Hope that answers everything.
Thank you, this was great!!!
You’re welcome :)
Very confusing. How do you even get the object on the work suface in the first place?
wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/studio-quick-start
i have a ams setup and i have black PLA in holder 1 if i want to print something only in black how can i get it to print without it printing a prime tower , my print keeps printing a tower even if im only using one color .
wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/prime-tower
Third picture on this article has a “enable” checkbox for the prime tower that you can deselect to force the software to not use the prime tower on your specific parts.
@@3DPrintStuff thank you so much! One more question i have a print dimension issue. I’m trying to print a round part that’s 2.0 inch diameter 1 inch tall. . The part is coming out 2.000 on one side and if i check a different spot (180) it’s at 1.990 ( .010 difference) out of round. How can i get this dimensions closer to 2.0 inches diameter? I have default settings pla P1S
What happens if you haven’t the ALS feature and need to change manually ?
I believe you can incorporate a pause into the G-code and swap the filament manually at that layer. I wouldn't want to do this with multiple color swaps but if all you're looking for is a 2 color print that changes at a certain height then it's definitely doable. Here is a write up someone else posted on reddit: www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/10p9lfn/p1p_without_ams_change_color_at_layer_height/
Does it really matter what color you choose? I mean I have pink in #2, but I just use red or orange instead of searching for the correct pink. Would that work?
The color you choose doesn’t matter too much. It just makes it easier to match the project color to the color loaded in the ams.
You get to choose what color gets printed when you go to print. It could be red in the project but you select pink in #2.
Great video thank you!!
was that 5hrs 20 mins for a 20mm cube
Yup, multi color printing takes ages to do color swaps. Especially when you’re using all 4 colors.
How does the printer switch colors as needed?
There's a filament management system called the AMS (Automated Material System) that holds 4 spools of filament. You can use up to 4 AMS's together to get 16 colors but that is way less common.
For color switching the printer will cut the filament and then feed the new color. Purge a set amount of filament as waste to switch fully to the new color and then start printing again. This happens on every layer that there are different colors and does a switch for each color used so the waste can add up. Here's a video that shows that waste: th-cam.com/video/L-OYDiT_ZCw/w-d-xo.html
Awesome tutorial, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Straight to the point. Thx
You're welcome
Awesome guide. Did you end up making the video on how to reduce the material use for colour prints?
I did: th-cam.com/video/IzOOJ8vGzZs/w-d-xo.html
Great tutorial. Thank you
can you also control the depth of infill of the text?
only if you paint it using a sphere tool. The fill tool automatically determines how deep to make the color.
@3DPrintStuff great! Thank you for the tip I will try that
I'm having an issue with a 2-color print body is one color letters are another color. letters are extruded into the main body. main body is blue letters are white but when it makes its first color change it starts printing partially white infill even when flush to infill is off. it does this for every layer except the top layer making the white infill show through.
Hard to tell just from this description but it sounds like your flushing volumes aren't sufficient between color changes so there is still some of the previous color in the nozzle when it tries to print the new color. Look up how to auto calculate the flushing volumes and try it again.
No the slicer intentionally prints the in fill a different color.
@@TheMoody876 Have you used the slicers slider bar to scroll through the sliced model and see where the slicer has said to put the colors? When you use the paint bucket on something like letters the slicer will create some weird inset geometry to make sure the 2 colors still hold onto each other if that makes sense. Maybe that's what you're seeing?
Maybe try starting a new bambu studio project and repainting the model? Maybe you accidentally painted inside the model at some point? Just spitballing at this point...
Yes I have used the slide bar and I selected to only put the colors on the countersink letters. The bottom layer and the vertical walls of the letters. I wish there was a way to post a picture on here to show it
@@TheMoody876 you could post on reddit or on imgur and share the link.
www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/
OR
www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/
Would be good options
thank you😁
just great, thank you!😀
You’re welcome :)
Any video on how to do 5 colors
Hope this answers your question: th-cam.com/users/shortsPBJvDYAhrJs?feature=share
Where are all those timelapses saved? Seriously. I haven't found'em yet. I'll probably have my first print ever timelapse and Idk where it saves them!
Saves them to the micro SD card so you can remove the memory card and put it directly in your computer or you can also access them through bambu studio.
"Device Tab" on the top -> "MicroSD Card" on the left
Dude, thanks! :) It will be fun to back in the memories of 3 months of prints!@@3DPrintStuff
Man great video! Thanks a lot!!
Glad you liked it!
Maybe you could turn up the volume?
Yeah it's been mentioned a few times now. I've made an effort to check every video after this one. Thanks for the feedback.
How do other high end printers not have this?
Most other printers just don't prioritize multi color printing. There is a lot of waste generated which probably turns off most professional users shopping at the higher end of printers.
@@3DPrintStuff How does this handle a lot of color mixed on the same layer?
@@kajekage9410 Every color change requires a purge of the nozzle that is ejected out the back of the printer. So there is wasted material on every color change.
@@3DPrintStuff so extremely slow is the answer, lol.
@@kajekage9410 Yes. It does add a ton of time to your print but that's the tradeoff for not using multiple print heads. (edit: typo)
New sub. Thank you for the great video
Thanks for the sub!
thank you that helped
You’re welcome, glad it helped
thnx man👍
Nice.
Just wanted to say while yeah okay audio is a bit lower than normal, it's not that bad. Quiet room watching this on my phone full volume and this sounds normal
Appreciate the positive comment. It's still something that should be corrected in future videos.
you got a coolplate not text* plate?
Yeah I have the cool plate + engineering plate that the x1-carbon came installed with. I haven't bought a textured plate yet, but I probably will.
I thought the select edges variant great, in my case selecting letters on a Cryptex code wheel, and while in prepare it looked perfect, then when sliced a few letters looked ok, but many others only were little or half filled with color…. I did not try all functions showed in this video at the time, but just thought it looked great in prepare, and then horrible in preview…
Strange, I’ve had the multicolor prints create weird internal patterns with the colour but never just ignore outer sections in a specific colour. Did you find a solution to your issue in the end?
@@3DPrintStuff I tried coloring the letters which came as a separate stl and then assemble with the letter wheel itself, and in preview looked ok, but result after printing did not look great. Instead I ended up printing the variant with recessed letters which turned out great.
You rock mate
Thanks
@@3DPrintStuff i wonder something. So you have letters raised on a surface. You dont want the whole letter in say green. You just want the top surface.
Is that whats happening when i touch the paint bucket to the top, or is it changing all layers of the letter beneath to green ?
Great tutorial but I can barely hear the audio
Yeah sorry about that. It has been fixed in following videos.
thanks
You're welcome
ok this is not useful video at all, what do i do if those options are greyed out unike yours???
You went through all options but fill gaps!
Your sound volume (relative to countless other TH-cam videos) is considerably too low even with my sound set at 100%.
Yes, thank you for letting me know. It has been addressed in videos published after this one.
Wish I could modify it within TH-cam, but they don't have this feature.
That's weird thought he sounded loud 🤔
So a multi color calibration cube will take over 5 hours??? Ouch!
Color changes take a looong time... it's the price you gotta pay on this printer for a very cool feature.
just FYI Sound level very low,
Thanks, I've had several people tell me the volume is low. I wish youtube gave me the option to increase the volume but I've made sure my following videos have better audio.
@@3DPrintStuff But the visual and the every step that you show is so great that I achived my goal, and I thank you for that!
@@oclaser You're welcome, I'm glad the video helped you.
Maybe you should pump up your voice ... or at least during cutting check that you reach master volume 0 ...
Yeah I’m not sure what happened to the audio on this one. Sounded good in the editing software… Wish there was an editing feature in TH-cam Studio to adjust the videos volume level.
volume is low
yes
66 grams flushed for a 20 gram model 😢
The unfortunate trade off of multicolor printing with one hotend. Add a bunch of the same part to the build plate and the waste stays the same so the waste to part ratio looks much better.
Need a better Microphone or speak up. Thanks for the video, I'll wait till there is no other noise in the hose to rewatch
Hey thanks for the feedback, I think I have this corrected on my more recent videos. I wish there was an option to increase the audio levels through TH-cam but that doesn’t seem to be an option.
LOUDER
Heard
dude fix thine audio. SOOOO quiet
Sounds just fine to me
@@LoneHawkI saw you replied to someone else and acknowledged that you would adjust the volume in future videos. So why would you do that if the audio sounds fine to you?
It seems to be fine for me too on mobile. But when I play it on my computer, it’s really quiet.
WTF is wrong with your volume?
It has been brought up before. It is fixed in future videos. Sounded fine in the video editing software but it is clearly too low.
even with my speakers turned up full... I cannot hear you
Thanks for the feedback. I will increase the volume on future uploads.
I can hear fine
I can hear fine😊
I hear it fine. Check your own settings bro
1/4 up and can hear perfect
Thanks. Your voice is really quiet though
Thanks for the comment, sorry about that. It has been fixed on future videos.
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
Thanks!