Better than many videos out there on these front brakes. Most try to get you to remove the 9mm allen bolts but you can do it with the 18mm bolts and drop the entire assembly as shown here. Also you do good camera work, you show everything up close. You even mentioned opening the bleeder screw which makes it so much easier so this was a solid video on how to do these.
Thank you for this video. I'd like to share a hint I know about this procedure you might have done but did not snow. When pushing the piston back you should unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap, to avoid pressure in the expander.
This is really great thank you. I assume in the normal course of events for replacing the pads and disc that you dont need to open up the bleed screw? Also volvos have a repuation for having pads discs that squeal a bit .. what is the general cause/solution for that?
If you are not changing the rotor, it's a shorter process just to remove the two upper and lower brake pad sliders. Remove the small covers, unscrew the sliders and remove them. Compress the piston as far as possible, loosen the caliper unit and pads from the rotor and pull the assembly off. Compress the pistol before removing the old inner pad, lube the piston face and sliders, remount, then reinstall the calipers unit. Tighten the sliders into their mounting holes, reinstall their caps, remount the tire, and pump the brake pedal a few times to reset the pads. It's a 20 minute job if you've done it before. If it's the first time, it could take a couple of hours to learn now NOT to do it.
Thanks. Very helpful video. I'm about to do the same brake job and didn't realize I could do it without splitting the caliper. Thank you! The only thing i would recommend is always using a jack stand versus just the scissor jack. Those scissor jacks are unstable.
+TheRobkwill your welcome rob.... jack stand are better .. yes i do agree to that. but if you have a well maintained scissor jack (also meaning that its not bent in any place that would cause it to collapse ) and flat surface along with a wheel chock you should perfectly fine. please subscribe to my channel and join me on facebook. once i reach 100 subscribers on here and facebook i want to do a giveaway.
yeah i used my foot lol .and yes they are a pain to get in. i started from the bottom and used my foot to hold that in and try to get as much as you can in for the middle part and then push the top in and it should start to all settle back in.i wanted to record to show how i did it but its hard holding the camera and trying to do that at the same time. i need a camera man asap!! lol
+Wu Guangning yes these were 316mm so if you take measuring tape i think it came out to something like 12 and a half inches while the 330mm is like 13 and a half inches. i dont remember exactly. dont try to use the bigger rotor , it wont work. the lug holes are off by few mm. and wont line up.
Thank you for a very thorough explanation. I’m about to do this job and couldn’t believe how heavy these calipers. Keep it coming. New sub 🤙🏾
Better than many videos out there on these front brakes. Most try to get you to remove the 9mm allen bolts but you can do it with the 18mm bolts and drop the entire assembly as shown here. Also you do good camera work, you show everything up close. You even mentioned opening the bleeder screw which makes it so much easier so this was a solid video on how to do these.
hey thanks for the feedback. i have a batter camera phone and a gimbal now .so its gonna make things easier.
@Ignacio Francis Yea, I've been using flixzone} for since december myself :)
Thank you for this video. I'd like to share a hint I know about this procedure you might have done but did not snow. When pushing the piston back you should unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap, to avoid pressure in the expander.
true and good point. sometimes i forget.myself. especially when recording and stuff like that. but thank you for pointing that out
This is really great thank you. I assume in the normal course of events for replacing the pads and disc that you dont need to open up the bleed screw? Also volvos have a repuation for having pads discs that squeal a bit .. what is the general cause/solution for that?
sorry for late response. i dont always seem to get the notification. but yes you can open the bleeder screw to make things easier for you.
If you are not changing the rotor, it's a shorter process just to remove the two upper and lower brake pad sliders. Remove the small covers, unscrew the sliders and remove them. Compress the piston as far as possible, loosen the caliper unit and pads from the rotor and pull the assembly off.
Compress the pistol before removing the old inner pad, lube the piston face and sliders, remount, then reinstall the calipers unit. Tighten the sliders into their mounting holes, reinstall their caps, remount the tire, and pump the brake pedal a few times to reset the pads.
It's a 20 minute job if you've done it before. If it's the first time, it could take a couple of hours to learn now NOT to do it.
Can you show how to install the rotor
The 336mm rotors surely fit the same hub holes. The 18" rims only fit over 336" .
good to know. i just wanna make sure i always get the right stuff. but if the rotors work thats great
Thanks. Very helpful video. I'm about to do the same brake job and didn't realize I could do it without splitting the caliper. Thank you!
The only thing i would recommend is always using a jack stand versus just the scissor jack. Those scissor jacks are unstable.
+TheRobkwill your welcome rob.... jack stand are better .. yes i do agree to that. but if you have a well maintained scissor jack (also meaning that its not bent in any place that would cause it to collapse ) and flat surface along with a wheel chock you should perfectly fine.
please subscribe to my channel and join me on facebook. once i reach 100 subscribers on here and facebook i want to do a giveaway.
Man, it is a pain in the butt to get the clips back in. It takes 3 hands. Is there a trick?
yeah i used my foot lol .and yes they are a pain to get in. i started from the bottom and used my foot to hold that in and try to get as much as you can in for the middle part and then push the top in and it should start to all settle back in.i wanted to record to show how i did it but its hard holding the camera and trying to do that at the same time. i need a camera man asap!! lol
leave the old pad on when pushing piston back
yes good point. i tend to forget doing that when i make videos or just doing jobs in general
Was your old rotor 316mm?
+Wu Guangning yes these were 316mm so if you take measuring tape i think it came out to something like 12 and a half inches while the 330mm is like 13 and a half inches. i dont remember exactly. dont try to use the bigger rotor , it wont work. the lug holes are off by few mm. and wont line up.
Yes, mine are 316mm. Thanks.
+Wu Guangning your welcome. please subscribe to my channel. i will have more videos up soon
A tripod would be handy. Lol
i have one now. i didnt have one at the time i made this vid
A pair of pivothead glasses would be even handier )
I had to litterly go somewhere else because you are talking way too much dude
oh im sorry i annoyed you . have a nice day