Stripping the Frame of My Barn Find Triumph T140 Bonneville Ready for Painting | 07
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2024
- Stripping the Frame of My Barn Find Triumph T140 Bonneville Ready for Painting | 07
In this episode having removed the engine and gearbox from my 1975 Triumph Bonneville T140V I am now stripping everything off the rolling chassis.
Here are some of the tools I am going to be using for this bike:
Imperial Combination Spanner Set: ebay.us/gYz85M
Imperial 1/2inch Socket set: ebay.us/jylH05
Imperial Allen Hex Bit Sockets: ebay.us/iFV0OQ
I would really like to inspect the frame and paint it before the start of the really bad weather in the Autumn. So before I do that I want to get most of the things stripped off the frame, such as mudguards, wiring , clocks etc. so that I can get it outside and give it a good pressure wash. Although I have already washed the bike after having messed about making it look more like the barn find that it is, there is still a lot of dirt and grease in places that will be uncovered as I strip it.
The Triumph T140V is a pretty simple bike, designed at a time when humans used to do it rather than machines. This does make it reasonably easy to strip. In the past with this kind of bike it was rusted fasteners that caused most of the problems. You end up breaking bolts, or with screws where the head just rounds off. However with this bike, even though there is rust, it hasn’t been too much of a problem.
When you strip the parts of one of these, it quickly becomes apparent that manufacturing technology was pretty simple. Most of the nuts and bolts are from a limited range. But there are some outliers, which seem odd. The sizes seem to be from a different range than the UNF UNC that most of them are. Maybe it was what the suppliers used and Triumph just had to accept that they would just have to adopt them.
Over the years Triumph moved from the older British Whitworth nuts and bolts, through the more modern UNC and UNF, but not all at once, so stripping an old bike can be quite an adventure for your tool kit. And don’t think that you can put the metric away, because you will find some need mm size spanners to get a good fit.
Once I had most of the parts removed I noticed that the covered parts were still very dirty. I wonder if the whole bike had originally been like that before being cleaned and offered for sale. I was most surprised at the muck in the air cleaner area. But looking at the inlet tracts, I don’t think that the engine had been run with them being so dirty.
I was also a bit surprised at how greasy and oily the bottom of the frame was. Obviously the engine had been leaking a lot of oil at some time for it to get like that. I was a little surprised that when the work had been done on the engine that it hadn’t been given a more thorough cleaning.
I didn’t find any real horror stories though, although a lot of the parts I removed are not going to be reused, they weren’t in terrible condition. There does seem to be a lot of this type of part for sale online, so there must be a lot of people just selling old components on, rather than restoring them. Eventually, original bikes will become a rarity, and I suspect that the value of unmolested ones will rise.
I also found some interesting things out about the pistons when I looked at them whilst giving them a quick clean. In the factories they measured the barrels and pistons separately and put the ones that were acceptable in two grades, H and L, this just meant that barrels and pistons of the same grade would work together. And in the factory they would just match them up and wouldn’t remeasure them
Interestingly I subsequently discover that the pistons have an H on them, I can’t get the head off to see if the barrels have the H stamp. But this is really interesting, I will have to explore it further in a future video.
Next I must get on with painting the frame.
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It's nice that the jugs fit so neatly into that bucket for the paraffin soak.
Was meant to be :) Let's hope that it is a sign that the paraffin might make a difference.
Great music choice on this vid
We are trying to up our game with this. But royalty free music isn't always as good as we would like.
@@SPANNERRASH I wanted to comment as your music choices were actually decent in comparison to most similar vids where they use very generic royalty free music, so credit where credit is due!
This will be really good to see built Great work sir..
Thanks, I do hope that reality does match my ambitions for this.
Great job, appreciate your skills and determination thank god mine isn't as bad as that..!
Thanks. Not sure I have shown any real skill yet, but I do try!! :)
Great job 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
I think getting blasting grit into where you wouldnt want it is a valid concern with the oil in frame Triumphs.
I have read so many horror stories about grit getting into the oil tanks during blasting that I don't want to take any chances. I fully intend to fit a Charlies style filter as well, but I am also playing with the idea of an external cartridge filter.
Some nice originality on the bike... Many of the fasteners are worth saving, especially the Cleveloc nuts even if you are not using them on this restoration. They can be replated at a later date.
Although it has the custom paint, it doesn't seem to have been messed about with too much... until now. I will probably end up with a couple of boxes of parts that I can't bring myself to throw away, but I suspect they may never be used for a future build. I still have too much from my last two Triumphs, and don't get be started about the CB's. But I will hang on to most of the fasteners. :)
I am also a serial offender with Triumph restorations, on my 5th at the moment ! I have learnt to keep everything until the project is finished. I applaud your techniques and patience.
I do think it starts to become addictive. That and the love of all things rusty! :)
Man, I was confused. Here in the U.S. the word "paraffin" commonly refers to a type of wax. I was wondering how covering the top end in wax would do anything other than make a huge mess. Fortunately, living with Yorkshire Wife has taught me that y'all speak a different language. We call it kerosene. Looking forward to the next installment.
Great to hear from you again. and I am glad your wife is keeping you on track. I should have mentioned kerosene for my overseas viewers. :)
Looking at your barrels I’d say they are later Harris nickasil coated ones, they’ve probably had sealant put on the composite head gasket as they used to blow chunks of gasket out the side, go to copper. Once soaked for a few days double nut the studs and try unscrewing them one at a time. Usually a little bit at a time. Good luck.
I hadn't considered that they may be other than standard Triumph barrels. but following your comment I have researched the nickasil barrels and it looks like you are probably right. I'm not sure if this is good thing or a bad thing yet. Now though I feel I need to make even more effort not to wreck them getting them apart. But thanks very much for making me aware to check.
@@SPANNERRASH they’re ok and it’s what you’ve got so maybe work with it, they don’t wear for a start but be careful and only about 5 or 6 swipes with a fine hone will do it. They weigh nothing compared to cast iron so easier to work with just be careful with the torque wrench as I’ve seen studs pull out before. Also 750’s had an emission exhaust cam and a balance pipe on exhaust pipes for USA so if you open the cases put in a 650 exhaust cam they go real well and header pipes without the balance pipe as well.
Yeah paint
Cheers.
Srm in Wales will do your head,they organise collection and delivery.
Cheers. I will bear them in mind if it comes to it.
A heat gun will make it easier to manipulate that wire harness.
Great idea, I'll put it in the toolbox for next time! Cheers.
Am just wondering how / what your going do or how are you going tackle the inside of the frame ?
If there is any access into the tubes I will probably spray some Dinitrol ML cavity wax in, which we have left over from the E30. I will pressure wash, white spirit, brake cleaner, etc, the Oil tank part of the frame. I am intending to use a Charlies type filter, in case ther is still any crap left in the tank, but I am also thinking of fitting a cartridge filter in the return line as well.
@@SPANNERRASH Was thinking of any inner surface crud n rust build up which eventually could get carried around in the oil circulation, what if the top breather hole and lower oil spigot were blocked up then paraffin poured in to the max or that anti-rust fluid stuff (frame would need be angled to fill every inch) last thing you would need is for the bike to fail due where you cant see, Just a thought. P.
Can you turn the studs in the barrel
I've tried the 2 nut method, but they aren't for moving. I was thinking of welding nuts on to them, but I haven't gone that far yet. The fact that they are Gilardoni barrels is also a factor. I don't want to cause any damage if I can avoid it.
That was painfull to watch
If you think that was bad, watch the next :) There's also a couple of playlists on old CB750 too, you might prefer them. Take care.
That sissy bar needs to go. Turn it into a bobber 👍
To right I might put the sissy bar on marketplace, but not back on the bike!