DIY engine overhaul Volvo Penta MD1B / S1 E8
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
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After our Volvo Penta MD1B would still not start we decided to DIY overhaul it. We did a valve job and replaced the piston rings. Now she runs like a swiss watch again. Just a bit louder, of course.
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
There's nothing like bringing an old engine back to life and hearing its heart beat for the first time. Nicely done.
Thanks Mad, it’s been a huge one on our “has to be fixed list”. Sure felt good to cross it off.
Mate, that’s a brilliant piece of work! Just found an MD1 out in the woods and looking forward to overhaul it. Doing a lot of DIY (with help of youtube) and your video is one of the best I’ve ever seen. Thanks!
Thank you much,Gerold. Glad to hear that you have found this being useful. I really appreciate your comment. Congratulations to your new engine. They run on the sniff of an oily rug. This engine is pretty much bulletproof. Bring her back and she will stomp along for another 50 years, I think. Cheers!
great description and detailed explanation. I am sure this video will help me in my proyect of overhauling of MD 1 B that i have found. I will make it as factory and put it in my boat instead of md1 of 7 hp. Only one dificulty than can make me little slower is fact that i am completelly blind but have lots of tech experience, patience and lovely wife that is my eyes and like to help me in proyects like this.
Hi Ivan, thanks for this very nice comment on my video. Glad to hear that you find it to be helpful. I wish you all the best with your project. Deepest respect for taking it on regardless of additional challenges. Glad to hear that your wife will help you with this. It’s a really good engine. All the best. Cheers!
Need just one hint please. On crankcase, down on oil sump, on opposite side of oil level stick and oil filter, there is one hose comming out from crankcase and is in L shape going upward and finishhing closed with bolt. Looks like was some external breathing system but closed. can i remove it or leave it on my engine? many thanks!
@@ivanraos9685 Hi Ivan, not sure what exactly you are referring to. The raw water pump is attached to the crankshaft and goes up to the impeller pump and head. I am not sure. Can you have your wife take a picture and send it over?
The valve seat should be ground with a specifically dressed rotary stone, centered on a mandrel, with about 1 degree difference from the valve face; the reason for the difference in angles is so carbon can be broken away while the valve is opening and closing, otherwise carbon can build up and eventually the valve doesn't seal any longer and the compression/combustion pressure escapes. What the video author is doing, is called lapping, this is the step AFTER grinding. Lapping creates a narrow ~1mm rim between the outside rim of the valve seat and the valve face, where the seal is actually achieved. If the entire face of the valve and seat are lapped together, carbon will fail to be broken off, and eventually the engine may not even start.
Thank you very much for your comment. That’s important to know. I really appreciate it. Cheers!
You did a good job. I have the Volvo MD2. That gave me a great insight as to what I would need to do. Thanks.
Thanks John, much appreciated. Best of luck with your engine.
Brilliant, well done. I currently have a md1b spread out on my garage floor.internals looked very similar to yours.
New rings, head gasket and a bit of welding on the head and should be good as new. Another 50 years life for her!!
Thank you much for your comment. Very much appreciated. You are spot on, regarding the quality of these engines. They are pretty much bullet proof, if taken care of properly. Best of luck with yours. Sounds like you’re taking on quite a project, knowing what you’re doing. It’s always worth the effort ,though. Here’s to another 50 years. Cheers!
Well done. You have a fantastic little engine now that will last for decades to come. Great little engine the Volvo.
Very true. These are fantastic little engines. Thank you for your comment. Cheers
Great job! The nervous tension just before turning it over then she fires up! A Eureka moment that trumps all prior failed attempts.
Thanks Andrew, she sure forced me up a very steep learning curve. It was great fun though to see her coming back alive. Cheers
that knocking sound though! mine had tha, i fixed it by adjusting the valves again
Hi David, thanks for chiming in on that. You are absolutely right about the value adjustment. After tinkering with that some more, the engine sounded way better. Correct valve adjustment, according to the manufacturer‘s specifications is very important. Thanks for your comment. Cheers!
Schön zu sehen, dass ich mit meinem MD1B nicht allein bin. Mir kommt das Maß zwischen Brennraum und Kühlkanälen ziemlich klein vor. Wenn‘s zu wenig wird, leidet die Kopfdichtung. Grüße aus Lübeck
Vielen lieben Dank für den Beitrag. Der Motor hat jetzt einen ganz neuen Kopf. Läuft wieder einwandfrei. Cheers from Duluth, MN.
Thanks for the video. I have a Volvo Penta MD1 that I will be trying to rebuild soon (I am not a mechanic). This video will definitely help
Glad it helped. Best of luck with the project. You don't have to be a mechanic to pull this off. it's a great engine. Well worth the effort. Cheers!
Well Done!
Thanks for a very helpful video.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Good work!
Thank you, much appreciated.
Now it will be ready for its 2nd 50 year running session.
That’s right, Pat. It’s a fantastic design. These engines are built to last.
Well done, she hopefully will run for years.
Thanks
I'm currently rebuilding a MD2B which has identical cylinder heads, except two instead of one. That was a great video, good job and you must have felt elated when she fired up :-)
I have all spare,parts. I'm in Toronto .ca ada
Glad it helped. Thanks for your comment. Cheers!
good video ,, great it came back to life .. the cylinder didn't look good . in my world it should be drilled and honed and a new piston in it, it will probably use engine oil so you know why, just have 5 l of engine oil with you to fill up after
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
@@SAILINGGOODOLDBOATS volvo penta engines are hard to kill,, the worst thing for an engine is if they are not used enough,, frequent oil changes and use It will run forever😀😀😀😀I love old solid engines that never fail,,, try to google MARSTAL MOTOR 7hp or SABB DIESEL 10hp a Danish and Norwegian engine,, super good engines 😃😃
Great job. I am trying to fix my MD2B at the moment. Runs in high throttle but not in low.
Could be a blown head gasket.
The piston has been attacked by corrosion. Looks like water has gotten in there. Emphasize the need to be sure the exhaust gasket is the right way round. If you don't, then seawater will drip out of the air filter. You have to bend the rocker feed tube. There is no other way.
Thank you much for this comment. That was super helpful. Much appreciated. Cheers!
Good Job, well done
Thanks Paul
Nice job
Thanks, much appreciated.
This is amazing, thanks. I took the head off mine just this evening...what IS that thing at 28.25 which you had to bend? I had to bend mine in exactly the same way to remove the head.
Thanks for the super nice comment. If I recall correctly, that’s the fuel supply, or return line. Either one. Cheers
Somehow, from your accent, I'm guessing your mother tongue might be German. I am with a MD1B from the 1970ies that was running until 2019 sort of, until then it was left for good, might have some little rust and such... I want to try to fix it all myself first, but if I fail I might want to come back to you with questions and such.
You are spot on. Best of luck with tackling this project. You can do it. I don’t know that much, but what I do know about it I am happy to share. Please, feel free to ask. Cheers
Wd-40 is a solvent with very poor lubricating qualities. Use light oil to hone. Assembled piston should be very well oiled, before it goes into the cylinder as should the bore, and especially the piston pin, and rod bearing. There is no excuse to start it up dry. The piston and valve seat were wrecked, is you are stuck in tonga with no choice,,,you have to cut corners,, like this but this will not last as it should for decades. valve seats and valve faces are cut at slightly different angles, so the sealing line is a hair width. lapping will work for a while, but like not measuring the bore...not best practice. The MD series of engines are easily rebuildable, as you have shown, and should never be treated as junk, if they quit running. If you want a newer engine, lighter, or with cheaper parts, give your old volvo to someone who needs it.
Thanks for the comment, and the profound experience. Much appreciated. That’s probably why DIY projects are always somewhat risky.
Hello! Great video. I have the same engine in my boat. However i cant control the rpm. It starts and goes to maximum rpm straight away and as soon as i move the accelerator to decrease rpm the engine dies. This problem started after i had the injection pump removed. The injection pump was stuck in closed position so i removed it and had it fixed at a diesel pump specialist. When i installed the pump again this problem started. Any ideas what might cause this problem?
Hi Renny, I am not sure but rebuilding the pump is a delicate process. A brand new one would run you probably less then a hundred bucks. I would simply try to swap it out against new. I have the problem now with mine that it seems to be stuck also. No significant fuel pressure at the injector. The manual talks about servicing the pump, but it also mentions that this should only be done by a Volvo expert. I’m assuming adjustment could be off otherwise. I hope this helps you along. Best of luck 🤞🏻
One more thing came to mind. Did you turn the engine in any way while the pump was removed. I would assume that could have caused timing issues also.
@@SAILINGGOODOLDBOATS Thank you for such a quick reply. Yes i might have turned the engine while it was removed a few times actually. Do you know how to posisiton the engine right again?
You are very welcome mate. Try to find the top dead center. There should be a mark somewhere on the flywheel, or on another very obvious turning part. Maybe on the hand crank or nut of the flywheel. Take the pump off one more time, even though ginormous pain in the stern, and position the engine to the top dead center. Ask the diesel shop that did the overhaul of the pump how to position it to TDC, also. Now put everything back together. That should bring timing back correctly. With the pump, you might even not have a zero or TDC position at all. Just to make sure though, ask the guys who did the service. I hope this will do it for you. Best of luck. Please, let me know if this worked. Cheers!
@@SAILINGGOODOLDBOATS Thank you! I will try it. The possitive thing is that im learnig alot about diesel engines :)
Great video, what’s the tool you use to clean/grind piston shaft?
Thanks for the comment. I am not quite sure what you referring to. Maybe, the honing tool? Best of luck
@@SAILINGGOODOLDBOATS thanks found the one on Amazone
How did you get the pins in? I’m working on an MD2B and struggling to get the piston pins in.
I had used pointy pliers. That worked good for me. It’s a bit of fiddling around, though.
Can you help me I have a MD2 B that has not run in 15 years. I cannot find anywhere how much oil it takes and I hat type oil also I have been told that when I change oil I have to prime the oil pump. Is this true?
Hi Edward, I suggest you download the Volvo MD2B service manual from the internet, and follow the service instructions accordingly. It should talk to standardize service measures, like how to conduct an oil change on this particular engine. Alternatively, you could also contact VOLVO marine service, and ask them to provide you with information on this matter. I hope this helps you a step further. I’m sorry that I can’t help you more, but I have never seen this engine in the flesh. Cheers!
I have a MD2B and have never done that on an oil change. You have to prime and bleed the fuel system.
Hi! We definitely have the same engine model and iam pretty sure we have the same flywheel as well. Is there a chance you could help my out with the timing mark or the O-Mark as it is called in the manual? I have to refit the fuel injection pump for the first time and struggle to find the marks on the flywheel. I tried to find out the point myself watching the rocker arms and there seem to three holes on the back of the flywheel that Are on the upside Part of the Wheel Right before the compression. Could you please help me out and tell me if these are the timing marks? Thank you, sorry for my English and all the best from Germany!
Hi Schlotzi, thank you for your question. First, I think your English is excellent. No need to apologize for anything. You can also write me in German though, if you like.That’s a tough one, I think. You’re looking for top dead center, right? I had the cylinder head off, hence I was physically able to see when the piston was in its full up position. However, there was also still a mark on my fly wheel. One option I think would be to take the cylinder head off, bring the piston all the way up, and O-Mark the fly wheel. That way you could also have a look at the injector nozzle. When you put everything back together, don’t forget to use a new cylinder head gasket, and the proper torque values. Otherwise, I would suggest you give Volvo a call, and ask them if they know an easier way to do this. I hope you get it figured out. It’s a really great engine you have there. Best of luck. Cheers!
What size piston ring pliers did you use please? I want to buy some as I would like to do this to my MD2B engine.
If I recall that correctly, it was something like 70-150 or so. The prison should be 80, I think. look into the engine specs to make sure though. It’s a great engine you have there.
@@SAILINGGOODOLDBOATS Thanks for the response. I see I can get a tool 50-100mm like yours. I am very lucky; I have my MD2B in the boat and an identical one in my garage which I hope to restore this winter.
@@Polibon59 Hey Paul, sorry that I wasn't on target. 50-100mm sounds more like it. Regardless, anything around 80mm will do. Just not to close to it. You want to have some play, that's all that really matters. I'm curious how your restoration (engine out of the boat) will turn out. These things are really bulletproof and run on the sniff of an oily rag.
Awesome engineering right there. I personally think it's well worth the effort. Once restored and then well maintained, an engine like this will run a lifetime. They don't make 'em like this anymore. Are you going to document the process?
You use way to much paste..
First time job. Thanks for pointing that out. I appreciate it. Cheers!