Mate don’t listen to these comments. Great video and well done on the job you did. I had the same issue and went to kwik fit and they told em the same thing the tyre is fine. My size tyre is about £300 for the pair. However my tyre was in good condition, so why would I replace them now? If the tyre was almost done, i would say yes probably best to replace it. If it still in good condition then it’s pointless, this can happen to anyone even with newly replaced tyres, what do you guys recommend every time the tyre takes a knick to keep replacing them? 😂🤦🏻♂️
Thanks for commenting and providing your experience. This is blatantly a subject people feel very opinionated about, sometimes neglecting to appreciate that MOT tests have specific checks that cover the condition of tyres to ensure that they are safe to use. Although you also had a positive experience with Kwik Fit confirming the tyre was fine, a lot of garages see it as an easy sale, especially when they have targets to meet.
Well produced video but I would hope an MOT tester would call that out as not safe. If I was an MOT tester and saw the original damage I would probably let it slide but when you see the damage covered up like that, you just can't know what is underneath. It's like finding underbody paint coated over a rusty floor. Also, when torquing up 5 bolt wheel bolts, don't do them one after another like on a clock face. Instead do them in a sequence like 1, 3, 5, 2, 4 and try to finish on the locking bolt if one is fitted. Then always release the locking bolt first using a breaker bar when loosening, before taking the rest off with an impact wrench if you have one. Never use an impact wrench on a locking bolt. Not saying that you did but just clarifying. Ideally have a spare locking wheel bolt key in case the original breaks because it never breaks at a convenient time! Don't ask why I know this! :)
Hi @craigchamberlain and thanks for commenting. I did get it checked out at a tyre shop I trust before creating this video and I was told it wasn’t a write-off; but to keep an eye on it to make sure its condition doesn’t deteriorate (which I’m doing frequently). Although I did mention this was cosmetic, in hindsight, I should have clarified in the video that anyone thinking of doing this should seek professional advice before performing a repair to make sure the tyre is still roadworthy. Your guidance regarding torquing wheel bolts and use of impact wrenches is sound advice; you are correct in stating they should be torqued in order (1, 3, 5, 2, 4) to ensure an evenly distributed clamping force. Looking back at my video, I’d originally used the correct order when putting on the bolts, but realised I used (1, 3, 4, 5, 2) to tighten them, before checking with the torque wrench in a clockwise fashion (I’ve since redone it just to be on the safe side!). I too experienced an issue with a shop that naively used an impact wrench to remove tuner style wheel bolts and split one, which meant I then had to get a sacrificial hex socket welded into it to get it out. Using a breaker bar to loosen them first is a much safer option.
@@marcoh.6345 in the UK, the government have a website listing how tyres are checked during an MOT inspection: www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/5-axles-wheels-tyres-and-suspension#section-5-2-2 I would imagine the TÜV website might have a similar list if you look there. If you are not sure, you can always seek advice at a trusted tyre shop for their opinion.
@@SwiftDevelopments Great to know, had a similar damage on my tire but mine was a much thinner scrape (like the 2nd layer of an onion) still left a flap tho. Bought a certified rubber cement from Canadian Tire and I plan on putting it tonight. Should be fine I hope!
@@kingmanalo2881 If the damage is superficial, then applying rubber filler to glue it back down before the flap falls off is going to have the best results. If you are not sure if the integrity of the tyre has been compromised, you can always get it checked out at a garage first to make sure. If the flap is likely to fall off before you have chance to fix it, cut it off so you can glue it back on once you have the rubber filler. I made that mistake with superglue the first time around, the superglue didn't last long and the flap came off before I'd noticed it had come away. Rubber filler works much better.
Greasing the bolts? The grease can act as a hydraulic between the threads and cause them to undo and give false torque readings. A small dot of grease is okay, never smear it on.
Well you learn something every day! I'm not sure where I picked up this habit, but it does appear to be an old fashioned custom that I thought helped prevent the bolts from seizing. I've always applied a small strip down the length of the thread bolt, so it can work its way around as it is tightened. After reading up about this, it does appear that greasing the threads reduces the frictional tension when tightening, which consequentially leads to over-tightening. Torque specs are based on the correlation between the friction beneath the rotating head of the fastener and the friction in the sliding threads. TL;DR: If the manufacturer doesn't recommend you grease wheel bolts, don't! 😄 Next time I'm working on the car and I've got the wheels off I'm going to clean them out.
Any damage to your sidewall weakens it. There’s no such thing as cosmetic. There will be damage done that you can’t see which could lead to a blowout - please take this bad advice down. Get a new tyre. It’s cheap in relation to a crash or loss of life 🤦🏼♂️
Hi @JonnyD3ath, I did get it checked out at a reputable tyre shop I trust before creating this video and I was told it wasn’t a write-off; but to keep an eye on it to make sure its condition doesn’t deteriorate (which I’m doing frequently). I would recommend anyone in a similar situation to seek professional advice when safety is concerned.
its cosmetic mate, stop trying to scare people. there are many tyres on the market which have much smaller sidewall protection that this tyre. If the corders are visable even a little the tyre needs replaced. This is literally a tiny glaze. Its fine.
I think they are coming up to 5 years old. The tyres have done about 20k miles and I estimate they have about another 6-12 months use before they’ll be getting near to minimum tread depth. MOT is coming up in a couple of months so I’ll soon find out if they need replacing sooner! 🛞
It’s also silly to replace a tyre unnecessarily. I did get it checked out at a reputable tyre shop before the repair and was told the tyre was okay (just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start to bulge or swell). I’d recommend anyone watching this video to do the same. It also passed its MOT shortly after the repair.
All I can say is WHY? why bother with all that work and effort, and you are driving on a compromised tyre, .Also the tyres look old cracked and worn. If it was my car I would just buy a new one.
The main reason is because I don’t see a valid reason for prematurely replacing a £350 tyre when there is nothing wrong with it. I did get it checked out at a reputable tyre shop before the repair and was told the tyre was still structurally sound (just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start to bulge or swell). It also passed its MOT shortly after the repair. The tyres are around 5 years old and the cracking I’m assuming you are referring to on the edge of the tread where it meets the sidewall is superficial and hairline deep, most likely caused by a spirited drive or two around corners in what is a heavy vehicle.
I admit it doesn’t look OEM but terrible is a bit harsh! 😂 This video was more an experiment to see how it performed, the camera on this occasion does exaggerate its imperfections. After several weeks of weathering, it blends in remarkably well, better than I expected.
I have the same tyres. I think they are not well made, got many cuts on the sidewall and I gave up at the end I got budget ones and they work way much better. I will never waste money in premium ones.
Or not I had those tyres on my wife's car from brand new and I just changed them with 119,000 kilometers. Front wheel drive and the back twit still had a bit of life. I think you're wrong about being bad quality mate
Mate don’t listen to these comments. Great video and well done on the job you did. I had the same issue and went to kwik fit and they told em the same thing the tyre is fine. My size tyre is about £300 for the pair. However my tyre was in good condition, so why would I replace them now? If the tyre was almost done, i would say yes probably best to replace it. If it still in good condition then it’s pointless, this can happen to anyone even with newly replaced tyres, what do you guys recommend every time the tyre takes a knick to keep replacing them? 😂🤦🏻♂️
Thanks for commenting and providing your experience.
This is blatantly a subject people feel very opinionated about, sometimes neglecting to appreciate that MOT tests have specific checks that cover the condition of tyres to ensure that they are safe to use.
Although you also had a positive experience with Kwik Fit confirming the tyre was fine, a lot of garages see it as an easy sale, especially when they have targets to meet.
Thanks for sharing, very helpful! Great Job!!!
Thanks for your feedback 👍
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
You're going this way, this way, and that way, where I would have gone this way, that way, and this way.
Well produced video but I would hope an MOT tester would call that out as not safe. If I was an MOT tester and saw the original damage I would probably let it slide but when you see the damage covered up like that, you just can't know what is underneath. It's like finding underbody paint coated over a rusty floor.
Also, when torquing up 5 bolt wheel bolts, don't do them one after another like on a clock face. Instead do them in a sequence like 1, 3, 5, 2, 4 and try to finish on the locking bolt if one is fitted. Then always release the locking bolt first using a breaker bar when loosening, before taking the rest off with an impact wrench if you have one. Never use an impact wrench on a locking bolt. Not saying that you did but just clarifying. Ideally have a spare locking wheel bolt key in case the original breaks because it never breaks at a convenient time! Don't ask why I know this! :)
Hi @craigchamberlain and thanks for commenting. I did get it checked out at a tyre shop I trust before creating this video and I was told it wasn’t a write-off; but to keep an eye on it to make sure its condition doesn’t deteriorate (which I’m doing frequently).
Although I did mention this was cosmetic, in hindsight, I should have clarified in the video that anyone thinking of doing this should seek professional advice before performing a repair to make sure the tyre is still roadworthy.
Your guidance regarding torquing wheel bolts and use of impact wrenches is sound advice; you are correct in stating they should be torqued in order (1, 3, 5, 2, 4) to ensure an evenly distributed clamping force. Looking back at my video, I’d originally used the correct order when putting on the bolts, but realised I used (1, 3, 4, 5, 2) to tighten them, before checking with the torque wrench in a clockwise fashion (I’ve since redone it just to be on the safe side!).
I too experienced an issue with a shop that naively used an impact wrench to remove tuner style wheel bolts and split one, which meant I then had to get a sacrificial hex socket welded into it to get it out. Using a breaker bar to loosen them first is a much safer option.
@@SwiftDevelopments so Mot says it is ok? hmm u don t know if german Tüv would say it s ok?
@@marcoh.6345 in the UK, the government have a website listing how tyres are checked during an MOT inspection:
www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/5-axles-wheels-tyres-and-suspension#section-5-2-2
I would imagine the TÜV website might have a similar list if you look there. If you are not sure, you can always seek advice at a trusted tyre shop for their opinion.
Nice video
Thanks for the feedback
Any updates after a month? On the cement product and the tires. Thank you! 🙏🏽
Hi. The rubber filler still looks the same as it did on the video and the car has covered about 1,000 miles since. 👍🏼
@@SwiftDevelopments Great to know, had a similar damage on my tire but mine was a much thinner scrape (like the 2nd layer of an onion) still left a flap tho. Bought a certified rubber cement from Canadian Tire and I plan on putting it tonight. Should be fine I hope!
@@SwiftDevelopments Just wondering if you’re planning on changing the tire considering the outcome of it?
@@SwiftDevelopments Lastly, just wondering if you drove it on the highway since then? Thank you.
@@kingmanalo2881 If the damage is superficial, then applying rubber filler to glue it back down before the flap falls off is going to have the best results. If you are not sure if the integrity of the tyre has been compromised, you can always get it checked out at a garage first to make sure. If the flap is likely to fall off before you have chance to fix it, cut it off so you can glue it back on once you have the rubber filler. I made that mistake with superglue the first time around, the superglue didn't last long and the flap came off before I'd noticed it had come away. Rubber filler works much better.
Greasing the bolts? The grease can act as a hydraulic between the threads and cause them to undo and give false torque readings. A small dot of grease is okay, never smear it on.
Well you learn something every day!
I'm not sure where I picked up this habit, but it does appear to be an old fashioned custom that I thought helped prevent the bolts from seizing. I've always applied a small strip down the length of the thread bolt, so it can work its way around as it is tightened.
After reading up about this, it does appear that greasing the threads reduces the frictional tension when tightening, which consequentially leads to over-tightening. Torque specs are based on the correlation between the friction beneath the rotating head of the fastener and the friction in the sliding threads.
TL;DR: If the manufacturer doesn't recommend you grease wheel bolts, don't! 😄
Next time I'm working on the car and I've got the wheels off I'm going to clean them out.
Thank you
You're welcome, thanks for feedback.
Any damage to your sidewall weakens it. There’s no such thing as cosmetic.
There will be damage done that you can’t see which could lead to a blowout - please take this bad advice down.
Get a new tyre. It’s cheap in relation to a crash or loss of life 🤦🏼♂️
Hi @JonnyD3ath, I did get it checked out at a reputable tyre shop I trust before creating this video and I was told it wasn’t a write-off; but to keep an eye on it to make sure its condition doesn’t deteriorate (which I’m doing frequently). I would recommend anyone in a similar situation to seek professional advice when safety is concerned.
its cosmetic mate, stop trying to scare people. there are many tyres on the market which have much smaller sidewall protection that this tyre. If the corders are visable even a little the tyre needs replaced. This is literally a tiny glaze. Its fine.
How old is the tyre? Looks pretty cracked from sun
I think they are coming up to 5 years old. The tyres have done about 20k miles and I estimate they have about another 6-12 months use before they’ll be getting near to minimum tread depth. MOT is coming up in a couple of months so I’ll soon find out if they need replacing sooner! 🛞
@@SwiftDevelopments when is your MOT? and please share the results then)
Hi @@marcoh.6345, the MOT was in August and it passed without issue.
I would take a Dremel with a flap sander to that.
Good idea…I don’t have a Dremel but I think it’s time I invest in one! 👍🏼
Typical of Beemer owners, no money left for maintenance and replacements.
A very silly thing to do,just buy a new tyre.
It’s also silly to replace a tyre unnecessarily. I did get it checked out at a reputable tyre shop before the repair and was told the tyre was okay (just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start to bulge or swell). I’d recommend anyone watching this video to do the same. It also passed its MOT shortly after the repair.
All I can say is WHY? why bother with all that work and effort, and you are driving on a compromised tyre, .Also the tyres look old cracked and worn. If it was my car I would just buy a new one.
The main reason is because I don’t see a valid reason for prematurely replacing a £350 tyre when there is nothing wrong with it.
I did get it checked out at a reputable tyre shop before the repair and was told the tyre was still structurally sound (just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start to bulge or swell). It also passed its MOT shortly after the repair.
The tyres are around 5 years old and the cracking I’m assuming you are referring to on the edge of the tread where it meets the sidewall is superficial and hairline deep, most likely caused by a spirited drive or two around corners in what is a heavy vehicle.
Just buy a new tyre...that looks terrible sorry
I admit it doesn’t look OEM but terrible is a bit harsh! 😂
This video was more an experiment to see how it performed, the camera on this occasion does exaggerate its imperfections.
After several weeks of weathering, it blends in remarkably well, better than I expected.
I have the same tyres. I think they are not well made, got many cuts on the sidewall and I gave up at the end I got budget ones and they work way much better. I will never waste money in premium ones.
Or not I had those tyres on my wife's car from brand new and I just changed them with 119,000 kilometers. Front wheel drive and the back twit still had a bit of life. I think you're wrong about being bad quality mate