In 1979 Kevin had a shop in Highland Creek (now part of Scarborough). He was going to build three guitars patterned after a Gibson CF-100 with a few Martin touches added in, and I decided to buy one (H2 "c"s) I would drop into the shop periodically and watched blocks of wood being transformed into masterpieces. I'm so glad I bought it and glad to see its sister brought back to life.
I met Kevin years ago when I toured his shop near Rockingham, ON. It was after the fire in Barry's Bay, and Kevin had all the burnt guitars - it was enough to make you cry. Even the least damaged of them was unusable due to the smell. He was making Ukes at the time, but several Valley 'Grass members owned Timberline guitars, and they were all great. Nice to see this survivor tuned up!
Your videos are always: entertaining, and educational. Not an easy thing to do. I am not a repair tech, nor a luthier, just a player, who admires craftsmanship. I'm sure that newer luthiers/repair techs benefit greatly from you explanations of why your are doing, what you are doing, and more importantly, what not to do. Thanks for this latest video. Keep up the great work.
Exellent video, very interesting. I have a small workshop and live in a small town in the UK. I have built up a modest customer base over the years but i have been working with wood all my working life. I'm a Pattern maker by trade, making moulds for Ferrous and non ferrous castings so Carpentry has always been with me and it's transfared over to guitars which i have played even longer since i was about 7. Myself and the other person who works with me have come up with our own method of seperating the necks, like you say though it's not just my idea to diseminate , we made a tool and it's been working far better than we ever could have hoped. Again with electric. I know your probably sceptical but you will find out in time. We spent a lot of time and fair expense looking into and making a prototype. We now are confident that we have a tool for the job. All being well i'll be able to explain how and what in the very near future. Your an inspiring individual as it's great to see a good Luthier at work.
What a gentleman you are. There are also probably a lot of "luthiers" out there copying your ideas. My advice, say what you're going to do, then show it. You are giving a lot of knowledge away online. Also I appreciate you acknowledging you fellow luthiers for their contributions. Terry from Oz.
Wowsa!!!! Great info here man ,being a retired Commercial Electrician I really respect you for this and explaining the dangers of Electrical current ,well done man !!!!
Very interesting and revealing points of physics around the bridge; thanks, as ever. I realise you may want to keep some secrets and may have edited out the relevant piece but I would like to share, that when using long, delicate drill bits, it is best to start with standard and increase the length in stages. This removes a great deal of breakage risk.We did this when drilling rock with far larger but proportionally similar bits. If you watch under a strobe or fluorescent light, a bit with too much unsupported shank shows up like a twanged guitar string and fails due to fatigue.
I would never want to attempt these sorts of repairs on a guitar. I don’t have the knowledge nor the dexterity to carry out these sorts of procedures. Nonetheless, I truly enjoy a watching a true craftsman at work. I find your videos endlessly fascinating. Thank you very much for peeks into your shop.
I'm thinking the same thing. This guy is not only the real deal re: luthier knowledge of repairs but is articulate in his explanation of issues and repairs. He is easily qualified to write a book and I'd be surprised if he already hasn't.
That was a most welcomed return , I loved seeing that glorious instrument coming back to the life she deserves. Thanks for preserving these artisan creations.
Just spent 3 hours watching your videos, man I've learned more doing that, than being in 6 luthier groups on the ol facebook for 4 years :) Thank you. Watching you work is like meditation man :)
I appreciate you do these "not so fun" and annoying jobs to get things done right and breathe life back in an instrument. It's the kind of thing we all want our luthier to do!
I've been watching various TH-cam channels for 10+ years (not all musical instrument related). I subscribe to 6 channels.. You are now #7. Love to watch your work. Interesting, entertaining and you never get emotional, political or snarky.. Great channel...
This is an amazing channel. I've been watching of ton of videos here lately and I've got to say it's the best luthier work I've seen. My interest in doing repair work is growing, and I've done a little work on my guitars in the last couple years, most notably replacing all the electronics on a cheap semi hollow I bought to practice on. I've done a little fret work and two precut nuts, but I need nut files to make them perfect. Once I do that I want to cut my own. I've been an auto tech for 15 years and now work as a tech in a start up, so I have no hesitation in working on things mechanically. But I have almost zero wood working knowledge or experience. Where's a good place to learn more, especially the wood repair work? I'm 45 and am thinking about doing repair work in retirement, so I have a good 20 years to learn!
Many years ago, when I worked in explosives research, we used a nichrome wire inside a fine conductive shell as a blast velocity transducer. They were made in house. It was called a Gibson probe, not after the guitar manufacturer but after a prolific researcher from the WW2 era named Frank Gibson. We drove a tiny, constant DC current through the transducer, and when a blast propagated up the shell, the pressure would crush and ionize the metal, causing the voltage across the transducer to drop. Anyway, this isn’t a completely tangential dissertation, there are papers on making those probes at very tiny diameters.
Some of the mechanical issues you describe are things that I would never have thought of. A real craftsman and a pleasure to watch. Thank you for sharing.
Played all my life and now learning from all you guys on what I was actually holding in my hands a beautiful piece of wood and what was behind it thanks
Hey, twoodfrd! I've easily watched most of your videos and have heard you say you're not an expert on at least a few occasions. While I appreciate the humility, I think you've proved yourself wrong here. You essentially said "Don't do this unless you're expert enough". Then you did it. Thank you for going through the trouble of documenting all of these. What you do is fascinating.
Great instruction. I appreciate the extra time you took to explain the practical differences between the mortise and tenon and dovetail joints. Thank you for posting.
It's a treat watching a craftsman analyze an issue without ignoring the additional problems which could happen along the way while removing the neck. The repair after the removal required intense thought because two or more angles were being altered. Setting the proper angle for the neck and bridge while centering the neck and maintaining a tight fit of the mortise and tenon joint. Adding the dowel to the neck heel increased structural integrity, and the finished product looked terrific compared to the way it looked before the repair. The fine-sounding instrument was the result of A+ work.
Another amazing job! I really love watching your videos. Your craftsmanship is superb and I like the teaching aspect you add to your narratives; in this case, even going so far as to create visual aids to explain the difference between neck joints. I learn new things, every time I watch one of your videos. Keep doing what you’re doing; great stuff!
I am very happy to hear your opinion about stacked heals. I have had so many discussions with luthiers and other people who repair guitars, and for most it seems an absolute taboo.
I love hearing your very easy to follow, yet extremely knowledgeable explanations of the mechanics of what you are working on. Thanks good sir for all this great learning content!!!
Your videos are really exemplary. The information and techniques sharing is singular...at least in regard to what I'm aware of here. That guitar sounds very sweet too.
Nice Video Ted. Neck reset on a mortice and tenon of unknown dimensions with correction of lateral neck angle. Not for the faint at heart! I have found that glowing veneer shims to sides of dovetail with the grain running the same direction as grain in neck makes the paring process much easier than the usual method which could drive one crazy even on tapered dovetails.
Amazing. Didn’t know before how acoustic necks could be taken off like that. I really enjoy the specialized rig you use to make the holes smaller, great advancing of the soldering iron rig.
Awesome, this is right up my alley!! I have 20 years experience as a tech for commercial coffee- working with power and water. And I follow Ian on IG. I will definitely give this a try!!
That guitar is a beauty - The builder is clearly quite the craftsman - And the results at the end was excellent. looked perfectly setup and sounded load and clear! I bet the builder is happy it landed with you
that is genius. i have a reset to do on an 50 year old j45 ive been putting off because the fretboard is fairly light and the finish is less than ideal. this is BRILLIANT
It's pleasurable to watch an articulate master craftsman at his work. What has struck me after many views, is the sloppy difficulty of a neck reset given the stone-age joinery that has been passed down. I thought it might be worth your while to create an experience guided video of a specification set for your ideal acoustic guitar. You have the words and experience to make it.
Nice to see this level of skill and care being taken , its way beyond good workmanship ,there has to be an element of heart and soul involved to restore these fine instruments, most enjoyable to see, and appreciate! thanks .
Watching you is so cool. I used to be so amazed with how you do these things. I’ve realized that you are just very purposeful about how much, where and when you apply pressure. It’s very obvious you know what you’re doing.
Thanks for the video! I subscribed to Ian’s channel. I was digging on his shellac repairs with StewMac. The electric probes are genius but I’ll stick to steaming necks for now 😇
Great video, I have a Hangar 9 heat iron as well. I fly RC airplanes and found out that the same tools for guitar building are used for model building. I am also an electrician so I will have to try this method.
Wow! Tricky, touchy, fiddly but in the end a great job. And I now understand why Gryphon said my '71 Harmony Sovereign dreadnought would be about $1,000 to reset the neck and that I should just buy another at less than half that cost! Or maybe I'll try to do it myself after a couple of junkers' experience. And the Harmony should be a dovetail not a mortise and tenon. Thanks much, T, and cheers.
This guitar looks a lot like my old Gallagher, which has a cutaway. It has been in need of a little work, and this video has motivated me take it out of its case and get started.
Sweet, sweet work, Ted! It's always a joy watching you work, in fact, I'd have been happy watching you shave/build-up the neck's tennon. Fine craftsmanship may not excite the masses, but I appreciate the Heck out of watching you work your magic!
Nichrome doesn't get hot with AC? So no electric fires of valves use AC then? :o) I would thoroughly recommend using an isolation transformer or stout variac with heating elements and keep and eye on current. Great video!
Great Job.. That Lumberline (as Kevin would call them) will be great for another 30 years or more. Keep up the great work! I'm glad that you were able to get in touch with Kevin.
Greetings from Argentina! You're an amazing doctor/wizard/ repair/ cientist guy! Your vids are a deligth . Many thanks! Best wishes for you and your shop!
I just saw something that you might find interesting. I just watched a Luthier at Martin Guitar working on John Mayer's OM28, not just a OM28 John Mayer, but John Mayer's Guitar! Reglued the bridge, fret job, new nut. The interesting thing is, when the Luthier glued the nut back on, he put two drops of glue in the nut slot itself, not the back of the fretboard. Also, when he glued the bridge back on, he spread the glue with his fingers. Glue looked like Titebond.
Recently I've been using a DROK boost/buck converter(input: 5.5v to 30v Output 0.5v to 30v, variable voltage and current)and I think it would be perfect as a variable power supply for these heat sticks. My favorite one that I use to power active pickups takes anywhere from 5.5-30v dc at the input and can put out anywhere from 0.5v - 30v dc. Also the current is adjustable as well as the voltage up to 4 amps which for guitar stuff is certainly more than enough current. For example my Fishman Moderns are only drawing about 11 mA. I see you have a respectable variable power supply but for someone on a budget working on their own instruments etc. it could be a great option. With that said I agree that neck resets should be done by someone who does them regularly with proper tools. But I couldn't help but mention those little DC boost/buck converters. I got sick of using 9v batteries with active pickups so I built a power supply that goes through a TRS cable to power my pickups. I built the supply initially as a 9v, 12v , or 18v optional supply with a charge pump that takes the 9v to 18v then a regulator that takes the 18 down to 12 volts but I really wanted variable voltage/current for this project and for trouble shooting/verifying the guitar pedals I build so I just went with the DROK boost buck converter. They also sell buck converters and boost converters so if you only need one function or the other your set. They are small enough that they could easily fit in about the same space as a 1590b enclosure. So for $16 you can finally use all those random dc power supply's you have lying around lol.
Thanks for the diagram. Makes a lot of sense. Have you ever reset an early 1970’s Yamaha FG-200. Mine is Made in Taiwan and is a jumbo version with 17” at the lower bout. Now, I’ve heard they’re a pain to reset because Yamaha used Epoxy instead of glue at the factory. Have you ever found this to be true that epoxy was used instead of glue? And that it’s virtually impossible to get the neck off.
The early 70's Yamahas used hide glue, and they come out just fine. By the middle of the decade they were using some other kind of adhesive that is really gummy. The main thing that makes them difficult is they always put glue on the side to heel surface. It's really difficult to get that hot enough to soften and it's essentially the same problem as this guitar - too much surface area. I usually suggest converting them to bolt-ons.
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Thank you for the shout out Ted!
After repairing the bodged floorboards at my mum's house that the builder did, it's good to see someone actually taking pride in their work.
In 1979 Kevin had a shop in Highland Creek (now part of Scarborough). He was going to build three guitars patterned after a Gibson CF-100 with a few Martin touches added in, and I decided to buy one (H2 "c"s) I would drop into the shop periodically and watched blocks of wood being transformed into masterpieces. I'm so glad I bought it and glad to see its sister brought back to life.
I met Kevin years ago when I toured his shop near Rockingham, ON. It was after the fire in Barry's Bay, and Kevin had all the burnt guitars - it was enough to make you cry. Even the least damaged of them was unusable due to the smell. He was making Ukes at the time, but several Valley 'Grass members owned Timberline guitars, and they were all great. Nice to see this survivor tuned up!
Steve Hanes a
Wow! What a treat watching a true craftsman tackling a job this complex and hearing that boomer at the end. Fine work. Thanks for posting.
Too true Mick love watching these videos very interesting and informative 🎸
Wow! This video shines a light on why the dovetail joint is used on the majority of guitars.
Your videos are always: entertaining, and educational. Not an easy thing to do. I am not a repair tech, nor a luthier, just a player, who admires craftsmanship. I'm sure that newer luthiers/repair techs benefit greatly from you explanations of why your are doing, what you are doing, and more importantly, what not to do. Thanks for this latest video. Keep up the great work.
A lot of work. You explained it very well. Nice repair
i broke my hand so all i can do is watch videos. i've been watching your videos all day long. you are a true master.
Exellent video, very interesting. I have a small workshop and live in a small town in the UK. I have built up a modest customer base over the years but i have been working with wood all my working life. I'm a Pattern maker by trade, making moulds for Ferrous and non ferrous castings so Carpentry has always been with me and it's transfared over to guitars which i have played even longer since i was about 7. Myself and the other person who works with me have come up with our own method of seperating the necks, like you say though it's not just my idea to diseminate , we made a tool and it's been working far better than we ever could have hoped. Again with electric. I know your probably sceptical but you will find out in time. We spent a lot of time and fair expense looking into and making a prototype. We now are confident that we have a tool for the job. All being well i'll be able to explain how and what in the very near future. Your an inspiring individual as it's great to see a good Luthier at work.
What a gentleman you are. There are also probably a lot of "luthiers" out there copying your ideas. My advice, say what you're going to do, then show it. You are giving a lot of knowledge away online.
Also I appreciate you acknowledging you fellow luthiers for their contributions. Terry from Oz.
Love the interactive sketches. Really informative.
You are the Bob Ross of guitar repair videos
Another well-performed reset. The guitar sounded great; rings like a bell and sustain for days.
The overtones and ring on that guitar are phenomenal.
Nice work and great information in your video.
Wowsa!!!! Great info here man ,being a retired Commercial Electrician I really respect you for this and explaining the dangers of Electrical current ,well done man !!!!
Very interesting and revealing points of physics around the bridge; thanks, as ever. I realise you may want to keep some secrets and may have edited out the relevant piece but I would like to share, that when using long, delicate drill bits, it is best to start with standard and increase the length in stages. This removes a great deal of breakage risk.We did this when drilling rock with far larger but proportionally similar bits. If you watch under a strobe or fluorescent light, a bit with too much unsupported shank shows up like a twanged guitar string and fails due to fatigue.
Another thing to ad is as soon as you feel the flutes of your drill bit pack up pull it out to clear the chips.
I would never want to attempt these sorts of repairs on a guitar. I don’t have the knowledge nor the dexterity to carry out these sorts of procedures. Nonetheless, I truly enjoy a watching a true craftsman at work. I find your videos endlessly fascinating. Thank you very much for peeks into your shop.
I'm thinking the same thing. This guy is not only the real deal re: luthier knowledge of repairs but is articulate in his explanation of issues and repairs. He is easily qualified to write a book and I'd be surprised if he already hasn't.
Yes, with an appendix of how to deal with all of the guitar repairs he’s encountered that need special treatments.
That was a most welcomed return , I loved seeing that glorious instrument coming back to the life she deserves. Thanks for preserving these artisan creations.
This is the most wholesome and positive comment section on youtube. Love your videos
This is worth watching, even for a person who knows pretty much nothing about guitar repair. Excellent, and well presented.
A brilliant description of a fine guitar repair told with high production values.
When I get a quiet moment away from life, I watch Ted’s work. I even opened up my own repair shop. It’s just too good.
Just spent 3 hours watching your videos, man I've learned more doing that, than being in 6 luthier groups on the ol facebook for 4 years :) Thank you. Watching you work is like meditation man :)
"The fit is servicable" - Yikes! Talk about understatement!!! Great work.
Man I just love watching your videos they're both instructive and relaxing.
I appreciate you do these "not so fun" and annoying jobs to get things done right and breathe life back in an instrument. It's the kind of thing we all want our luthier to do!
Fabulous! This is the sort of video that I find at 1am in the morning that stops up until 2am. Fascinating
I've been watching various TH-cam channels for 10+ years (not all musical instrument related). I subscribe to 6 channels.. You are now #7. Love to watch your work. Interesting, entertaining and you never get emotional, political or snarky.. Great channel...
This is an amazing channel. I've been watching of ton of videos here lately and I've got to say it's the best luthier work I've seen. My interest in doing repair work is growing, and I've done a little work on my guitars in the last couple years, most notably replacing all the electronics on a cheap semi hollow I bought to practice on. I've done a little fret work and two precut nuts, but I need nut files to make them perfect. Once I do that I want to cut my own. I've been an auto tech for 15 years and now work as a tech in a start up, so I have no hesitation in working on things mechanically. But I have almost zero wood working knowledge or experience. Where's a good place to learn more, especially the wood repair work? I'm 45 and am thinking about doing repair work in retirement, so I have a good 20 years to learn!
1:42 he plays smoke on the water with just the tuner.
Great disclaimer on the electronic devices... so true, if you don't understand, you are not ready. You actually gave out a LOT of information.
i recently found your youtube channel and watched pretty much all of your videos, glad to see another upload i could watch these all day!
Yeah I find his videos really comforting. Certainly his amazing voice helps, but the content is obviously amazing. Just such a warm, peaceful vibe.
me too. Thanks for sharing Ted
Many years ago, when I worked in explosives research, we used a nichrome wire inside a fine conductive shell as a blast velocity transducer. They were made in house. It was called a Gibson probe, not after the guitar manufacturer but after a prolific researcher from the WW2 era named Frank Gibson. We drove a tiny, constant DC current through the transducer, and when a blast propagated up the shell, the pressure would crush and ionize the metal, causing the voltage across the transducer to drop. Anyway, this isn’t a completely tangential dissertation, there are papers on making those probes at very tiny diameters.
Hey Ted. Does it amaze you that so many people are interested in watching while you masterfully share your craft with us? Thanks, brother!
Beautiful sounding acoustic guitar.
Some of the mechanical issues you describe are things that I would never have thought of. A real craftsman and a pleasure to watch. Thank you for sharing.
Played all my life and now learning from all you guys on what I was actually holding in my hands a beautiful piece of wood and what was behind it thanks
Hey, twoodfrd! I've easily watched most of your videos and have heard you say you're not an expert on at least a few occasions. While I appreciate the humility, I think you've proved yourself wrong here. You essentially said "Don't do this unless you're expert enough". Then you did it. Thank you for going through the trouble of documenting all of these. What you do is fascinating.
It's quite nice to listen to you. I like the way, you do your work and and the way you talk about it. 👍
Great instruction. I appreciate the extra time you took to explain the practical differences between the mortise and tenon and dovetail joints. Thank you for posting.
It's a treat watching a craftsman analyze an issue without ignoring the additional problems which could happen along the way while removing the neck. The repair after the removal required intense thought because two or more angles were being altered. Setting the proper angle for the neck and bridge while centering the neck and maintaining a tight fit of the mortise and tenon joint. Adding the dowel to the neck heel increased structural integrity, and the finished product looked terrific compared to the way it looked before the repair. The fine-sounding instrument was the result of A+ work.
Another amazing job! I really love watching your videos. Your craftsmanship is superb and I like the teaching aspect you add to your narratives; in this case, even going so far as to create visual aids to explain the difference between neck joints. I learn new things, every time I watch one of your videos. Keep doing what you’re doing; great stuff!
Love it! As always, a pleasure to watch a true luthier at work. Thank you for sharing!
It really is a pleasure hearing a master builder talking about guitars
Cutting edge stuff, thanks! The customer might want to consider a set of bridge pins...
I am very happy to hear your opinion about stacked heals.
I have had so many discussions with luthiers and other people who repair guitars, and for most it seems an absolute taboo.
I don't mind being exposed to it Ted. P.S. you are most definitely a master of your craft.
I love hearing your very easy to follow, yet extremely knowledgeable explanations of the mechanics of what you are working on. Thanks good sir for all this great learning content!!!
I’m in awe of the precision of your work. Not many woodworkers work to the tolerances you do.
You certainly are a top-notch Craftsman! I really enjoy your no-nonsense get to the point approach.
Thankyou 🐾🐾
Your videos are really exemplary. The information and techniques sharing is singular...at least in regard to what I'm aware of here. That guitar sounds very sweet too.
Nice Video Ted. Neck reset on a mortice and tenon of unknown dimensions with correction of lateral neck angle. Not for the faint at heart! I have found that glowing veneer shims to sides of dovetail with the grain running the same direction as grain in neck makes the paring process much easier than the usual method which could drive one crazy even on tapered dovetails.
I really enjoy your thought process on problems/remedies. Always interesting.
It is a joy to watch a master craftsman work.
Amazing. Didn’t know before how acoustic necks could be taken off like that. I really enjoy the specialized rig you use to make the holes smaller, great advancing of the soldering iron rig.
Awesome, this is right up my alley!! I have 20 years experience as a tech for commercial coffee- working with power and water. And I follow Ian on IG. I will definitely give this a try!!
More stellar work. I would loved to have seen the neck tenon when it was finally ready to be glued back in.
That guitar is a beauty - The builder is clearly quite the craftsman - And the results at the end was excellent. looked perfectly setup and sounded load and clear! I bet the builder is happy it landed with you
I love that you distinguish the difference between Solder and Sodder ,well done good sir :)
that is genius. i have a reset to do on an 50 year old j45 ive been putting off because the fretboard is fairly light and the finish is less than ideal. this is BRILLIANT
Amazing process, great outcome. Your videos are possibly the best on guitar repair I have seen. Thanks!
Thanks, I always enjoy your videos
It's pleasurable to watch an articulate master craftsman at his work. What has struck me after many views, is the sloppy difficulty of a neck reset given the stone-age joinery that has been passed down. I thought it might be worth your while to create an experience guided video of a specification set for your ideal acoustic guitar. You have the words and experience to make it.
Nice to see this level of skill and care being taken ,
its way beyond good workmanship ,there has to be
an element of heart and soul involved to restore
these fine instruments, most enjoyable to see,
and appreciate! thanks .
Exquisite repair, friend. I'm new here, I love your videos.
Watching you is so cool. I used to be so amazed with how you do these things. I’ve realized that you are just very purposeful about how much, where and when you apply pressure. It’s very obvious you know what you’re doing.
fascinating stuff - love your attention to detail
WOW, inconceivable to myself, mastery of such ends of the spectrum, dissassembly and reassembly! Beyond most, beyond me.
The way your mind works amazes me. Thank you!
I just discovered your channel, and watched 3 of your videos - fabulous! Incredibly instructive and well filmed - THANKS!!!
Great job! I dont play or repair but i love watching guitar and instrument building and repairs. That guitar has nice tone as well.
It is very satisfying to watch you work with such attention to quality.
Most definitely a great refined method of repairs. Incredible work.
Thanks for the video!
I subscribed to Ian’s channel. I was digging on his shellac repairs with StewMac.
The electric probes are genius but I’ll stick to steaming necks for now 😇
Great video, I have a Hangar 9 heat iron as well. I fly RC airplanes and found out that the same tools for guitar building are used for model building. I am also an electrician so I will have to try this method.
Thank you for this amazing work! Masterpiece! You are an incredible luthiere. The trick with heating is perfect.
Wow! Tricky, touchy, fiddly but in the end a great job. And I now understand why Gryphon said my '71 Harmony Sovereign dreadnought would be about $1,000 to reset the neck and that I should just buy another at less than half that cost! Or maybe I'll try to do it myself after a couple of junkers' experience. And the Harmony should be a dovetail not a mortise and tenon. Thanks much, T, and cheers.
Ted, you are a fine luthier no doubt. But you are also an excellent teacher. Thanks for another fine video!
This was really interesting! Thanks for making & sharing this video
This guitar looks a lot like my old Gallagher, which has a cutaway. It has been in need of a little work, and this video has motivated me take it out of its case and get started.
Thanks very much for the video. A great result for some serious work.
Sweet, sweet work, Ted! It's always a joy watching you work, in fact, I'd have been happy watching you shave/build-up the neck's tennon. Fine craftsmanship may not excite the masses, but I appreciate the Heck out of watching you work your magic!
Nichrome doesn't get hot with AC? So no electric fires of valves use AC then? :o) I would thoroughly recommend using an isolation transformer or stout variac with heating elements and keep and eye on current. Great video!
Great Job.. That Lumberline (as Kevin would call them) will be great for another 30 years or more. Keep up the great work! I'm glad that you were able to get in touch with Kevin.
I applaud your dedication to your craft! well done.
Greetings from Argentina! You're an amazing doctor/wizard/ repair/ cientist guy! Your vids are a deligth . Many thanks! Best wishes for you and your shop!
Awesome job my friend
Great video and thanks for the in depth explanation of the difference between the two strategies for joining a neck ! Very instructive !
These are very simple electronics. Indeed, if someone can't understand them, they shouldn't come near them.
I just saw something that you might find interesting. I just watched a Luthier at Martin Guitar working on John Mayer's OM28, not just a OM28 John Mayer, but John Mayer's Guitar! Reglued the bridge, fret job, new nut. The interesting thing is, when the Luthier glued the nut back on, he put two drops of glue in the nut slot itself, not the back of the fretboard. Also, when he glued the bridge back on, he spread the glue with his fingers. Glue looked like Titebond.
Great work again Ted
Recently I've been using a DROK boost/buck converter(input: 5.5v to 30v Output 0.5v to 30v, variable voltage and current)and I think it would be perfect as a variable power supply for these heat sticks. My favorite one that I use to power active pickups takes anywhere from 5.5-30v dc at the input and can put out anywhere from 0.5v - 30v dc. Also the current is adjustable as well as the voltage up to 4 amps which for guitar stuff is certainly more than enough current. For example my Fishman Moderns are only drawing about 11 mA. I see you have a respectable variable power supply but for someone on a budget working on their own instruments etc. it could be a great option. With that said I agree that neck resets should be done by someone who does them regularly with proper tools. But I couldn't help but mention those little DC boost/buck converters. I got sick of using 9v batteries with active pickups so I built a power supply that goes through a TRS cable to power my pickups. I built the supply initially as a 9v, 12v , or 18v optional supply with a charge pump that takes the 9v to 18v then a regulator that takes the 18 down to 12 volts but I really wanted variable voltage/current for this project and for trouble shooting/verifying the guitar pedals I build so I just went with the DROK boost buck converter. They also sell buck converters and boost converters so if you only need one function or the other your set. They are small enough that they could easily fit in about the same space as a 1590b enclosure. So for $16 you can finally use all those random dc power supply's you have lying around lol.
A wonderful job and truly shows the skill of a true craftsman! Thanks!
Another quality repair, and useful insight to the mystical art of lutherie.
Brilliant repair, this was a great and entertaining video. Thank you for your continued service.
Yet another fantastic video. Cant get enough learning in. Keep up the good work
The guitar sounded great another job well done thanks for making my day enjoyable with your show.
I had and used a real '51 CF-100E. so, this guitar got my attention. Beautiful job!
Thanks for the diagram. Makes a lot of sense. Have you ever reset an early 1970’s Yamaha FG-200. Mine is Made in Taiwan and is a jumbo version with 17” at the lower bout. Now, I’ve heard they’re a pain to reset because Yamaha used Epoxy instead of glue at the factory. Have you ever found this to be true that epoxy was used instead of glue? And that it’s virtually impossible to get the neck off.
The early 70's Yamahas used hide glue, and they come out just fine. By the middle of the decade they were using some other kind of adhesive that is really gummy. The main thing that makes them difficult is they always put glue on the side to heel surface. It's really difficult to get that hot enough to soften and it's essentially the same problem as this guitar - too much surface area. I usually suggest converting them to bolt-ons.