Man I would just like to say, of the many, many luthiers on TH-cam your videos and techniques for repair are by far the most professional and the advice you give is invaluable thanks for all the information!
Keep up the good work fella, dont listen to the trolls out there, u are one of the best, been following u a long time, we need luthiers like u... Thanks for your kwnoledge and well doing... we salute u .. greetings from southern Spain...Thank u Sir!
I had the privilege of meeting the founder of Harmony guitars in 1987, Mr. Franklin Harmony. He was a very nice man, and very disgruntled that his guitars were considered cheap. Mr. Franklin Harmony passed away only 2 years later in 1989.
This was a particularly interesting and refreshing video based on an economy guitar that is worth repairing. In contrast, I watched someone on TH-cam this week destroy a guitar and say, “Oh well, it was a cheap guitar anyway”, with multiple supportive comments from his subscribers. It is so nice to see you respecting and repairing an instrument instead of destroying one and laughing it off.
It’s interesting going back and watching these videos a year or two later. Here he’s just learning about the nichrome wire for neck resets where today he’s using his second set of styrofoam cutters.
I think that Harmony is a really pretty guitar. I love the plain wood look like that. I've been binging all of these videos, going through a pretty rough time so this helps a lot. Thanks man!
For anyone reading this, I just pulled my first neck off of an early 1960s Harmony 162, very similar to this one in the video. The dovetail pocket was such that I needed to angle the drill bit backwards, i.e. pointing from the fret slot towards the heel of the neck, not forwards towards the neck-block. My first two drill holes were down into the neckblock. I recommend angling towards the heel of the neck to find the pocket. Only took me like 2 hours of heating with my lone foam-cutter heat stick that twoodfrd uses in later videos. I think dry heat is nice, but I did end up using a syringe of water to help to hydrate the hide glue some and finally it came free! Anyway, I'm going to reset the angle now. Good luck to any other aspiring repair-persons!
Another great video by one of the best lutherie teachers around. I've no personal experience but I've heard he is a damned good luthier too. Thanks Ted.
refreshing to watch a youtube luthier that's IS a master craftsman and is NOT a purist. bravo! BTW, that quasi-knot in the fret-board....and a poplar neck. hmmmm, i remember using that stuff only as drawer bottoms on cabinetry.
After watching several of your videos and really enjoying your craftmanship....I've decided you need to a day off to visit a manicurist.😄😉 Please don't take your shoes off.🥴🤯🤯 Great vids keep up the good work!
Really liking that non steam way of removing necks. I am going to try that next week or so. The steam method is so extremely messy. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the 5 minute laugh when you referred to the person who commented about steam being a dry heat. That one got even my wife laughing. Loved your hands shaking when you said that. That said it all. Really enjoy your videos and always anxious to watch the latest. I appreciate your professionalism, one of the best on TH-cam . Thanks also for the knowledge you share selflessnessly. Wow, that was a log word! LOL! Thanks again and I wish you great success even though I think you already have achieved it from hard work and dedication.
Thanks for the videos, and for your calm and thorough explanations of what and why. Despite my best efforts, I always learn something from you. Thumbs up to crush a troll.
I’m really looking forward to this series... although I own a Martin now, I started out with a Harmony when I was taking lessons in the 60s, and have fond memories of it.
Great video! I laughed and cringed when you mentioned the viewer comment that steam was a "dry heat". Looking forward to seeing the next steps in repairing this Harmony.
I've rebuilt a LOT of Harmony and Kay guitars over the decades and always added an adjustable trussrod. After removing the neck, I'd remove the fingerboard and pull out the steel bar. I would then recut the trussrod channel by screwing a sacrificial 1/4" piece of plywood (or Masonite) an inch wider than the headstock and as long as the neck to the fingerboard area with four (2 at each end) 1/2" counter-sunk flathead screws. Keep everything centered this way: draw centerlines on the neck and on the plywood, then drill two 1/2" inspection holes, one at each end of the plywood along the centerline. Lay the plywood over the neck and line up the centerlines by sighting through the holes. Clamp, then screw it on. The plywood is used to rest against the rip fence of the table saw. First I'd make a test pass with the blade set just a few thousandths above the surface of the table to check the cut along the plywood centerline. If you're within 1/32" side-to-side, that's good enough. Set the blade at the correct depth, about 1/8" less than the combined thickness of the neck at its thinnest part plus the 1/4" plywood. You should creep up on the depth cut first. Run your cut all the way out into the headstock. When you get that good, flip the neck 180° and make a pass in the opposite direction. Often this was enough to give me the correct width 3/16ths slot because I rarely got things perfectly centered. If the slot is too narrow because you were too accurate, a tiny movement (maybe 1/32") of the rip fence and two more passes. Then it was a matter of chiseling the headstock like a Gibson for the trussrod nut and washer, a curved filler piece of wood clamped and glued on top of the trussrod that's later planed flush with the neck. I'd wax the trussrod with candle wax so any glue wouldn't stick. McDonalds straws also worked well. Keep the ends of the rod as near the fingerboard surface and the center of the rod as deep in the slot as you can, the more curve you build into it the better it works. I'd figure on maybe 5 hours for the whole job. It worked well every time but you may want to do a dry run on a junk neck first. Another little trick I'll pass on using the "sacrificial 1/4" plywood to cut a centerline" technique. When you need to make a new fingerboard to replace an old one that you have but is unusable, using the 2-centerline method. screw the old fingerboard to the plywood and rip it down the center on the saw. Next, take the two halves of the f-board and screw them to a piece of 3/4"plywood shimmed up maybe 1/16"with your new un-tapered f-board blank laid in between them, making sure the fret slots line up on either side. You want the surface of the old F-board that 1/16" higher than the new board. If the new board is already tapered, this won't work unless you can accurately center and secure it between the 2 halves of the old f-board. The newly cut edges of the old f-board must be parallel which is why I prefer using an untapered blank between the 2 halves. Clamp the new board in place so it can't shift. This is your new and very accurate fret slot cutting jig. Lay the saw in the slots of the old board and start your cuts in the new board and only go to about half depth. Pull the new board out and then finish your cuts. I really like your vids a lot. There's some real hackers out there documenting it all for our benefit but you definitely ain't one of them. But I might be, no vids to prove it one way or the other, but there's a ton of these old beaters out there I kept flying. There was one I paid $5 for that was covered in house paint but had a beautiful spruce top underneath it. I pulled the neck and top, X-braced it, trussrod , and a nice tobacco burst finish and it sounded amazing. Hung it on the wall of the store I worked in and sold it the next day for $400, 1983 dollars which would be about $1,000 today.
I'm glad to have "discovered" your TH-cam page. While I've learned many things from another well-respected luthier, I look forward to refining the skills I've picked up ( and have applied) by listening to and admiring your style and content. Thank you!
Nichrome post heaters need a wire loop; the return wire can either be more nichrome or a non-heating wire, and the wires need to be insulated from each other. Making them narrow, rigid and reliable sounds like an interesting research project. Back of a napkin calculations: to get 20W (80W per neck) from a 4" / 10cm of 22ga (~0.025" / 0.64mm) length of nichrome 60 (about 1 ohm/ft, or 0.33 ohm/10cm) requires 2.5V @ about 8A, so you could combine four of them in series with 10V at 8A (also 80W (of course)). Should be just barely doable from a sub-$100 0-30V 0-10A adjustable power supply but I would have to test it. If you wanted different amounts of heat in the front and back, the easiest way is to waste it in the air with separate lengths of nichrome wire.
I think Mahogany top guitars are less susceptible to climatic conditions because I have not seen any mahogany top guitar repairs online.. And also this guitar held upto 60 years for a neck reset.. Nice video..
I've seen these heat rods before and been thinking it would be good to get a dryer removal. But the size of the hole coupled with the scorching of the fretboard is two strikes against. That smaller wire with the dc generator sounds like a winner. That's a cool guitar, I just finished a '62 1213 arch top with a caved in top. Not broken but sunk with the braces loose. I'm thinking the mahogany will sound better than the birch on my unit. Really fat neck as well but that helps with no adjustable rod. Like I say every time I say anything at all, you do wonderful work.
I modified a 55w soldering iron and used a 1/16" tungsten tig welding electrode. The tungsten stays straight under full heat from the iron. Tungsten melts at 3,422°C (6,192°F)
@@tristanoshea382 I have a lathe in the shop and I turned a copper slug to fit the iron with a 1/16" center bore to accept the electrode. It uses a tiny set screw to lock in the electrode.
My favourite type of guitar. I play a new Guild M-20 solid mahogany. I have seen Harmony solid mahogany come up now and then. They now tend to ask double what i am willing to pay! Will be great to watch these!
Ain't that the truth? You used to be able to pick these up at yard sales for dirt cheap, sometimes as low as twenty bucks. Now that they've developed a following, the nicer Harmony and Kay guitars have shot up in price.
I am glad to be here and be able to watch this series as it's released. Plus, I have a few old budget guitars from the 60's that need work so I will definitely use the knowledge that I learn. Thank you!
I'm so glad you're posting this series. I have two H165's, one of which plays acceptably, and the other has a broken neck joint. I'm planning to do some work on both of them (eventually, when I have actual spare time). I will be referring back to your observations, which are in significant agreement with my own, and your advice and techniques. Looking forward to it. 👍
Thanks for showing us this! I love old harmony guitars! I have 2 of them, a 1948 Stella( needs a total rebuild - sat in a shed for years,and a 67 harmony Stella which is still playable but needs a reset. Both were free ! Thanks for caring about cheaper guitars, because some of us can't afford a Cadillac ,we have to drive a pinto!
Thanks for sharing your considerable knowledge and experience with us. I really appreciate it. I imagine that you had to pay a pretty penny for your luthier instruction and training. Watching your videos is like a essentially free course in stringed instrument repair. Great stuff!
Thank you for the entertaining education, I'll bet there will be a run on all mahogany Harmony guitars in the next couple of weeks. I love your channel please keep them coming.
As several have said already, this is a class act. And I like the idea of treating just about any survivor instrument with respect. These old cheapies gave a lot of guys a good start with a career in music. Getting to the tools you use: Couldn't you use a smaller diameter steel rod for that heating effort? Especially since you're using a soldering iron to heat it. You might build a two- or three-pronged tool welded together and heat the whole thing with the soldering iron. Sorry--your discussion got me into a problem-solving mood. Keep the videos coming.
This is great, Ted! The other Harmony that I mentioned I have is a 165. It needs *all* the work, so this series is especially welcome. I'm going to x-brace mine, in addition to the neck reset (and likely bridge replacement).
Hi ! Absolutely stunning 7 videos serie and work ! I do understand your arguments about the bridge, nevertheless you may have experiment and come up with a "kind of" Lowden type bridge, I dig them. Nonetheless, the final result and sound are gorgeous. Love your channel.
Super interesting as usual, can't wait for the rest of the series. I vote no on the pickguard, I really like the starkness of that mahogany top. Looking forward to this project.
Strictly speaking, your commentator who suggested steam is dry heat is sort of right, in that steam is the gaseous state of water. BUT most people speak of water vapour as steam, and that is what is created in 'steam' neck resets. It's wet!
I can't recollect the last time I was so eager to feel my head spinning (well, I can, but we shan't put that in writing, here...nope). This "series" idea was/is great, and I'd forgotten to cast my vote, so I'm now very pleased to see it is indeed occurring. Something tells me that this ol' Harm'ny will have never played and sounded so sweet. Treat your patient well, and please don't literally "throw the kitchen sink at her". After her "Tedoplasty" she'll awaken renewed...she'll be healthy, vibrant and singing better than ever. "Scalpel..."
... so funny, I can get a sense of the good materials by the fact that the guitar is ringing along with your voice while it is facing the camera while you are talking.
Really enjoyed this video and am looking forward to future episodes. You make what is a difficult job like removing a neck so straight forward which I’m sure it isn’t. That old Harmony is built from quality materials and is well worth restoring, l have an old Harmony Sovereign which is in dire need of a neck reset but I’ve no idea who I can trust to do the work over here in the UK. I’m sure that the finished guitar will sound great. I own an early 2000s Martin D15 which is all mahogany and it is a really nice sounding instrument with a good tone for accompanying vocals .
I have a similar Harmony with Spruce top and Mahogany back and sides. Top is nice and flat but a neck reset and relief correction like you are doing is needed so I am excited to follow your series. Currently working on an archtop tenor guitar I rescued in the meantime.
bravo super work and detail, really enjoy your sharing during video, thanks for the tips and history on Harmony. I am looking at a thrift store Harmony which could be a decent all solid wood instrument if restored. And it is going to need just about all of what you are sharing with the one you have.
Had a Harmony for my first guitar. The action was extremely high. The case it came in was far better than the guitar inside 😊. I believe it would have been better for archery than music! Thanks for the excellent videos.
Look up 3D printer heater cartridges. They heat up fast and even. You could find something to screw on a wire to them via a heater block they use or even make an aluminum transfer block thing. That way, you could get away with a really small hole, or multiple. They run on 12 or 24 volts. Not sure how many amps they use though. I think they would be an option if you wanted to make your own thing. I've used guitar string to clear out a nozzle, and the string will heat up to those temperatures pretty fast, so you might even be able to use a thick guitar string for the pocket.
So I find that the basic wood of many of these guitars is very comparable to high dollar guitars of today, but the frets are always super low, and the joints are always badly/heavily varnished.
I have an old Takamine Martin clone from (I’m fairly certain) the early 70’s … right down to copying headstock shape and using Martin’s iconic script for the brand lettering. It’s a little bit hammered … Cracked and caved in top on the upper bout from the neck joint and finger extension to the sound hole or very close to it. I would really love to dump money into materials and take a good clean shot at er’ … at the same time I know the cost to fix it would so far exceed its value but I really don’t care about that in the least … it’s so damned rad .
I’m also restoring one of these. I’m leaving the ladder braces and the top loader bridge. Mine needs a neck reset and a refret and the bridge reglued though.
Sold a mid 60`s Gibson LG0 and got a same year Harmony H-165 and have to say I prefer the Harmony. I like the wider fingerboard on it and I think it sounds superior to the Gibson. (and at half the price) It doesn`t have the street cred of having ``Gibson``on the headstock but that doesn`t matter to me.
For heating the tenon i use a hakko air station with a 1mm nozzle. You can dial the temp really good based on the glue, and usually get away with one or two 1,3mm holes.
There are a few guitars that I regret selling or trading. One of them was a Harmony about like this one, with a mahogany back and sides but the top was spruce. It was a superior sounding and playing instrument. It has a pin bridge.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W1D5 | Fall | เก็บแต้มของจริง คือวันนี้](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EciIAlCXg5k/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow! Before the foam cutters, love the evolution of the tech
Was great to see this! Just discovered these videos and it's awesome to come back and see the beginnings of what is now a regular on the channel
Man I would just like to say, of the many, many luthiers on TH-cam your videos and techniques for repair are by far the most professional and the advice you give is invaluable thanks for all the information!
Keep up the good work fella, dont listen to the trolls out there, u are one of the best, been following u a long time, we need luthiers like u... Thanks for your kwnoledge and well doing... we salute u .. greetings from southern Spain...Thank u Sir!
I had the privilege of meeting the founder of Harmony guitars in 1987, Mr. Franklin Harmony. He was a very nice man, and very disgruntled that his guitars were considered cheap. Mr. Franklin Harmony passed away only 2 years later in 1989.
Harmonys are great, they're my favorite cheap vintage guitars
steam is a "dry heat", man you have to love some comment section experts
Almost as stupid as suggesting to inject disinfectant.
This was a particularly interesting and refreshing video based on an economy guitar that is worth repairing. In contrast, I watched someone on TH-cam this week destroy a guitar and say, “Oh well, it was a cheap guitar anyway”, with multiple supportive comments from his subscribers. It is so nice to see you respecting and repairing an instrument instead of destroying one and laughing it off.
The only acceptable destruction of a cheap guitar would be by a beginner who is learning how to open it and repair it.
@@andsalomoni Like cadaver lab in med school; they die for a noble reason.
1961 all mahogany, single piece top?
The guitar I never knew I wanted. Awesome.
It’s interesting going back and watching these videos a year or two later. Here he’s just learning about the nichrome wire for neck resets where today he’s using his second set of styrofoam cutters.
I think that Harmony is a really pretty guitar. I love the plain wood look like that.
I've been binging all of these videos, going through a pretty rough time so this helps a lot. Thanks man!
Perfect timing. I just pulled the neck off an old all mahogany parlor with a poplar neck and had to build the dovetail back up.
For anyone reading this, I just pulled my first neck off of an early 1960s Harmony 162, very similar to this one in the video. The dovetail pocket was such that I needed to angle the drill bit backwards, i.e. pointing from the fret slot towards the heel of the neck, not forwards towards the neck-block. My first two drill holes were down into the neckblock. I recommend angling towards the heel of the neck to find the pocket.
Only took me like 2 hours of heating with my lone foam-cutter heat stick that twoodfrd uses in later videos. I think dry heat is nice, but I did end up using a syringe of water to help to hydrate the hide glue some and finally it came free! Anyway, I'm going to reset the angle now. Good luck to any other aspiring repair-persons!
Another great video by one of the best lutherie teachers around. I've no personal experience but I've heard he is a damned good luthier too. Thanks Ted.
refreshing to watch a youtube luthier that's IS a master craftsman and is NOT a purist. bravo!
BTW, that quasi-knot in the fret-board....and a poplar neck. hmmmm, i remember using that stuff only as drawer bottoms on cabinetry.
Oh yeah the poplar necks are pretty rough but nearly all these Kay and Harmony guitars have them
Always enjoy watching your work.
Thanks for posting
After watching several of your videos and really enjoying your craftmanship....I've decided you need to a day off to visit a manicurist.😄😉 Please don't take your shoes off.🥴🤯🤯 Great vids keep up the good work!
Really liking that non steam way of removing necks. I am going to try that next week or so.
The steam method is so extremely messy. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the 5 minute laugh when you referred to the person who commented about steam being a dry heat. That one got even my wife laughing. Loved your hands shaking when you said that. That said it all. Really enjoy your videos and always anxious to watch the latest. I appreciate your professionalism, one of the best on TH-cam . Thanks also for the knowledge you share selflessnessly. Wow, that was a log word! LOL! Thanks again and I wish you great success even though I think you already have achieved it from hard work and dedication.
Thanks for the videos, and for your calm and thorough explanations of what and why. Despite my best efforts, I always learn something from you. Thumbs up to crush a troll.
I’m really looking forward to this series... although I own a Martin now, I started out with a Harmony when I was taking lessons in the 60s, and have fond memories of it.
Thanks for posting these excellent videos. Your workmanship is a joy to watch. Looking forward to Part 2.
I love those soundholes without the rosette.
Great video! I laughed and cringed when you mentioned the viewer comment that steam was a "dry heat". Looking forward to seeing the next steps in repairing this Harmony.
"Steam is a dry heat!"
Oh wow. 😂🤣🤣
Dry heat ? Hot air ! Loving your channel, thanks
Thanks Hamilton
Keep up the great channel
Windsor will keep tuning in
This is gonna be fun. Loved your vibrating hands in response to the dry steam heat comment!
I've rebuilt a LOT of Harmony and Kay guitars over the decades and always added an adjustable trussrod. After removing the neck, I'd remove the fingerboard and pull out the steel bar. I would then recut the trussrod channel by screwing a sacrificial 1/4" piece of plywood (or Masonite) an inch wider than the headstock and as long as the neck to the fingerboard area with four (2 at each end) 1/2" counter-sunk flathead screws. Keep everything centered this way: draw centerlines on the neck and on the plywood, then drill two 1/2" inspection holes, one at each end of the plywood along the centerline. Lay the plywood over the neck and line up the centerlines by sighting through the holes. Clamp, then screw it on. The plywood is used to rest against the rip fence of the table saw. First I'd make a test pass with the blade set just a few thousandths above the surface of the table to check the cut along the plywood centerline. If you're within 1/32" side-to-side, that's good enough. Set the blade at the correct depth, about 1/8" less than the combined thickness of the neck at its thinnest part plus the 1/4" plywood. You should creep up on the depth cut first. Run your cut all the way out into the headstock. When you get that good, flip the neck 180° and make a pass in the opposite direction. Often this was enough to give me the correct width 3/16ths slot because I rarely got things perfectly centered. If the slot is too narrow because you were too accurate, a tiny movement (maybe 1/32") of the rip fence and two more passes. Then it was a matter of chiseling the headstock like a Gibson for the trussrod nut and washer, a curved filler piece of wood clamped and glued on top of the trussrod that's later planed flush with the neck. I'd wax the trussrod with candle wax so any glue wouldn't stick. McDonalds straws also worked well. Keep the ends of the rod as near the fingerboard surface and the center of the rod as deep in the slot as you can, the more curve you build into it the better it works. I'd figure on maybe 5 hours for the whole job. It worked well every time but you may want to do a dry run on a junk neck first.
Another little trick I'll pass on using the "sacrificial 1/4" plywood to cut a centerline" technique. When you need to make a new fingerboard to replace an old one that you have but is unusable, using the 2-centerline method. screw the old fingerboard to the plywood and rip it down the center on the saw. Next, take the two halves of the f-board and screw them to a piece of 3/4"plywood shimmed up maybe 1/16"with your new un-tapered f-board blank laid in between them, making sure the fret slots line up on either side. You want the surface of the old F-board that 1/16" higher than the new board. If the new board is already tapered, this won't work unless you can accurately center and secure it between the 2 halves of the old f-board. The newly cut edges of the old f-board must be parallel which is why I prefer using an untapered blank between the 2 halves. Clamp the new board in place so it can't shift. This is your new and very accurate fret slot cutting jig. Lay the saw in the slots of the old board and start your cuts in the new board and only go to about half depth. Pull the new board out and then finish your cuts.
I really like your vids a lot. There's some real hackers out there documenting it all for our benefit but you definitely ain't one of them. But I might be, no vids to prove it one way or the other, but there's a ton of these old beaters out there I kept flying. There was one I paid $5 for that was covered in house paint but had a beautiful spruce top underneath it. I pulled the neck and top, X-braced it, trussrod , and a nice tobacco burst finish and it sounded amazing. Hung it on the wall of the store I worked in and sold it the next day for $400, 1983 dollars which would be about $1,000 today.
Great start. I will eagerly follow the overhaul process from here in the UK.
Thanks for the post, Tim. You are really are putting out master classes here. Looking forward to the next, and the next, and the next neck video. ;)
I'm glad to have "discovered" your TH-cam page. While I've learned many things from another well-respected luthier, I look forward to refining the skills I've picked up ( and have applied) by listening to and admiring your style and content. Thank you!
New subscriber, I've been watching a lot of your old videos and you are super interesting and I love watching you work. You're a great craftsman.
Cool !! Can't wait to watch the next episode ! You should be on Netflix !!!
Truly enjoy and value your videos. Thank you for posting! 😎
Nichrome post heaters need a wire loop; the return wire can either be more nichrome or a non-heating wire, and the wires need to be insulated from each other. Making them narrow, rigid and reliable sounds like an interesting research project.
Back of a napkin calculations: to get 20W (80W per neck) from a 4" / 10cm of 22ga (~0.025" / 0.64mm) length of nichrome 60 (about 1 ohm/ft, or 0.33 ohm/10cm) requires 2.5V @ about 8A, so you could combine four of them in series with 10V at 8A (also 80W (of course)). Should be just barely doable from a sub-$100 0-30V 0-10A adjustable power supply but I would have to test it. If you wanted different amounts of heat in the front and back, the easiest way is to waste it in the air with separate lengths of nichrome wire.
Thanks for the info! I believe Ian's using a non-heating return. I'm excited to give it a try.
I think Mahogany top guitars are less susceptible to climatic conditions because I have not seen any mahogany top guitar repairs online.. And also this guitar held upto 60 years for a neck reset.. Nice video..
I've seen these heat rods before and been thinking it would be good to get a dryer removal. But the size of the hole coupled with the scorching of the fretboard is two strikes against. That smaller wire with the dc generator sounds like a winner. That's a cool guitar, I just finished a '62 1213 arch top with a caved in top. Not broken but sunk with the braces loose. I'm thinking the mahogany will sound better than the birch on my unit. Really fat neck as well but that helps with no adjustable rod. Like I say every time I say anything at all, you do wonderful work.
I modified a 55w soldering iron and used a 1/16" tungsten tig welding electrode. The tungsten stays straight under full heat from the iron. Tungsten melts at 3,422°C (6,192°F)
sounds like a great idea. curious how you modified your iron to accept the 1/16” electrode?
@@tristanoshea382 I have a lathe in the shop and I turned a copper slug to fit the iron with a 1/16" center bore to accept the electrode. It uses a tiny set screw to lock in the electrode.
Your videos are comforting enough to forgive making us look at math..
Never miss your vids! So informative!
My favourite type of guitar. I play a new Guild M-20 solid mahogany. I have seen Harmony solid mahogany come up now and then. They now tend to ask double what i am willing to pay! Will be great to watch these!
Ain't that the truth? You used to be able to pick these up at yard sales for dirt cheap, sometimes as low as twenty bucks. Now that they've developed a following, the nicer Harmony and Kay guitars have shot up in price.
@@ijosef , virtually every one of these all-mahogany Harmony's I've seen at flea markets and such had badly warped, wavy tops.
I liked the way you ended the video with the rhetorical question "Sound good?" I'm quite sure it will sound great, Ted 👍
I am glad to be here and be able to watch this series as it's released. Plus, I have a few old budget guitars from the 60's that need work so I will definitely use the knowledge that I learn. Thank you!
I'm so glad you're posting this series. I have two H165's, one of which plays acceptably, and the other has a broken neck joint. I'm planning to do some work on both of them (eventually, when I have actual spare time). I will be referring back to your observations, which are in significant agreement with my own, and your advice and techniques. Looking forward to it. 👍
It seems to me that you're about 50 years too young to have so much skill and so much knowledge. Looking forward to the rest of this series.
My dad had THE EXACT SAME GUITAR. First guitar I every picked up.
I used to own the same guitar too.
@BNS0892 Lol!
@BNS0892 thanks for the update, genius
Thanks for showing us this! I love old harmony guitars! I have 2 of them, a 1948 Stella( needs a total rebuild - sat in a shed for years,and a 67 harmony Stella which is still playable but needs a reset. Both were free ! Thanks for caring about cheaper guitars, because some of us can't afford a Cadillac ,we have to drive a pinto!
Working on one of these, spruce top. Was found in the attic of a condo for who knows how long.
Ladder bracing is making a comeback.
Thanks for sharing your considerable knowledge and experience with us. I really appreciate it.
I imagine that you had to pay a pretty penny for your luthier instruction and training.
Watching your videos is like a essentially free course in stringed instrument repair. Great stuff!
I wish my old harmony was mahogany like this guy. Looks really nice and woody 2 me
Thank you for the entertaining education, I'll bet there will be a run on all mahogany Harmony guitars in the next couple of weeks.
I love your channel please keep them coming.
As several have said already, this is a class act. And I like the idea of treating just about any survivor instrument with respect. These old cheapies gave a lot of guys a good start with a career in music. Getting to the tools you use: Couldn't you use a smaller diameter steel rod for that heating effort? Especially since you're using a soldering iron to heat it. You might build a two- or three-pronged tool welded together and heat the whole thing with the soldering iron. Sorry--your discussion got me into a problem-solving mood. Keep the videos coming.
this is as cool as building a lightsaber
LOL!
I really enjoyed watching this!
I love those mahogany Martin style guitars.
All the best from rainy England
This is great, Ted! The other Harmony that I mentioned I have is a 165. It needs *all* the work, so this series is especially welcome. I'm going to x-brace mine, in addition to the neck reset (and likely bridge replacement).
Beautiful work and an interesting instrument.
You make the best videos. Thanks
Hi ! Absolutely stunning 7 videos serie and work ! I do understand your arguments about the bridge, nevertheless you may have experiment and come up with a "kind of" Lowden type bridge, I dig them. Nonetheless, the final result and sound are gorgeous. Love your channel.
That was most interesting. It may be a cheapie but I think it looks rather handsome. I'm looking forward to the next episode.
I would love to hear more about that wire and that power supply. Thanks for your videos!
Super interesting as usual, can't wait for the rest of the series. I vote no on the pickguard, I really like the starkness of that mahogany top. Looking forward to this project.
If a neck turns you down for a date you know it's poplar.
Groan!
good one, dad
Strictly speaking, your commentator who suggested steam is dry heat is sort of right, in that steam is the gaseous state of water. BUT most people speak of water vapour as steam, and that is what is created in 'steam' neck resets. It's wet!
I have an electric harmony from the 80s and its one of my favorites
Fantastic info as always thank you
Can't wait to see the rest this series!
Looking forward to the next part, dude! Exciting stuff.
“Steam is a dry heat!” That made me laugh out loud!
I can't recollect the last time I was so eager to feel my head spinning (well, I can, but we shan't put that in writing, here...nope). This "series" idea was/is great, and I'd forgotten to cast my vote, so I'm now very pleased to see it is indeed occurring. Something tells me that this ol' Harm'ny will have never played and sounded so sweet. Treat your patient well, and please don't literally "throw the kitchen sink at her". After her "Tedoplasty" she'll awaken renewed...she'll be healthy, vibrant and singing better than ever. "Scalpel..."
My first guitar was a Crestwood acoustic my sister had, not even up to Harmony quality. Great job!
Nice work as always! I agree the Harmony is worth saving. The sound will be different but it will have sonic value.
I have a h165 for $600 I'd love to part ways with it . It has a "hippie" in the neck and the action is great. It's a 1961 to 1963 no nuts in the truss
... so funny, I can get a sense of the good materials by the fact that the guitar is ringing along with your voice while it is facing the camera while you are talking.
Really enjoyed this video and am looking forward to future episodes. You make what is a difficult job like removing a neck so straight forward which I’m sure it isn’t. That old Harmony is built from quality materials and is well worth restoring, l have an old Harmony Sovereign which is in dire need of a neck reset but I’ve no idea who I can trust to do the work over here in the UK. I’m sure that the finished guitar will sound great. I own an early 2000s Martin D15 which is all mahogany and it is a really nice sounding instrument with a good tone for accompanying vocals .
A treat as always. Can’t wait for part 2.
I have a similar Harmony with Spruce top and Mahogany back and sides. Top is nice and flat but a neck reset and relief correction like you are doing is needed so I am excited to follow your series. Currently working on an archtop tenor guitar I rescued in the meantime.
Thank you so much, this is fantastic
12:47 Someone told you "You don't know anything about steam because it's a DRY heat". Lol. That's hilarious!
Great video, very informative, appreciate the content and effort
Loved the vid, so keen for the others
Quality YT material
bravo super work and detail, really enjoy your sharing during video, thanks for the tips and history on Harmony. I am looking at a thrift store Harmony which could be a decent all solid wood instrument if restored. And it is going to need just about all of what you are sharing with the one you have.
Had a Harmony for my first guitar. The action was extremely high. The case it came in was far better than the guitar inside 😊. I believe it would have been better for archery than music! Thanks for the excellent videos.
Beautiful guitar man
Look up 3D printer heater cartridges. They heat up fast and even. You could find something to screw on a wire to them via a heater block they use or even make an aluminum transfer block thing. That way, you could get away with a really small hole, or multiple. They run on 12 or 24 volts. Not sure how many amps they use though. I think they would be an option if you wanted to make your own thing. I've used guitar string to clear out a nozzle, and the string will heat up to those temperatures pretty fast, so you might even be able to use a thick guitar string for the pocket.
That’s wild. I litterally just sold one of these in Oshawa. Very cool guitar but the one I had was a disaster
So I find that the basic wood of many of these guitars is very comparable to high dollar guitars of today, but the frets are always super low, and the joints are always badly/heavily varnished.
I have an old Takamine Martin clone from (I’m fairly certain) the early 70’s … right down to copying headstock shape and using Martin’s iconic script for the brand lettering.
It’s a little bit hammered … Cracked and caved in top on the upper bout from the neck joint and finger extension to the sound hole or very close to it. I would really love to dump money into materials and take a good clean shot at er’ … at the same time I know the cost to fix it would so far exceed its value but I really don’t care about that in the least … it’s so damned rad .
Lark Street! They're great guys there. I own a shop not far from them, and when we get the odd rarity, we usually send people over to them for work.
Just the roundover on that to edge alone makes this guitar worth it.
I’m also restoring one of these. I’m leaving the ladder braces and the top loader bridge. Mine needs a neck reset and a refret and the bridge reglued though.
Sold a mid 60`s Gibson LG0 and got a same year Harmony H-165 and have to say I prefer the Harmony. I like the wider fingerboard on it and I think it sounds superior to the Gibson. (and at half the price) It doesn`t have the street cred of having ``Gibson``on the headstock but that doesn`t matter to me.
I Love your work
@twoodfrd. I like your pragmatism and way of reasoning
For heating the tenon i use a hakko air station with a 1mm nozzle. You can dial the temp really good based on the glue, and usually get away with one or two 1,3mm holes.
Wow it's a really interesting guitar.
I'm going to need more popcorn for this one!
I love Lark Street Music! I think my friend bought his Harmony Sovereign there. Really cool shop.
There are a few guitars that I regret selling or trading. One of them was a Harmony about like this one, with a mahogany back and sides but the top was spruce. It was a superior sounding and playing instrument. It has a pin bridge.
You're really comfortable on camera idk how you don't have more subscribers lmao